18^, 


V 


\f   1J^. 


<S. 


rpy^ 


.y" 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


I 


1.0 


1.1 


:  la  no 


■( 


Photographic 
CarparatJon 


^ 


4^ 


\ 


3S  «MBT  MAM  STRKT 

WIKTai,N.V.  14SM 

(7U)l7a-4S03 


4^ 


v\ 


^..'^ 


o 


'^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  MIcroraproducticns  /  inttitut  Canadian  da  microraproductiont  historiquaa 


Tachnioal  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notaa  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  instituta  has  attami  tad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  avaiiabia  foi  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chacicad  balow. 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


0 


Colourad  covers/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


r~~|    Covars  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagte 

Covars  rastorod  and/or  iaminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastaurte  at/ou  pailiculAa 


I     I   Covar  titia  missing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Colourad  maps/ 

Cartas  gAographiquas  an  coulaur" 

Coloured  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  biua  or  blacic)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 

Colourad  platas  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planchas  at/ou  illustrations  an  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rail*  avac  d'autras  documants 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrAe  peut  cauaer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marge  IntArieure 

Bianlt  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appeer  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  theee 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certainaa  pages  blanches  ajoutias 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  texte, 
male,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  cee  pages  n'ont 
pas  At*  f  ilmtes. 


Th« 
to 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  At*  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  dAtaila 
da  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographiqua,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthoda  normale  de  filmege 
aont  indiqute  ci-deeaoua. 


r~n  Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pagea  da  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAas 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurAes  at/ou  peliiculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  dteolortes,  tachettes  ou  piquAes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pagee  dAtachAes 

Showthroughy 
Tranaparance 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  InAgaie  de  Timpression 

Includee  supplementary  matarii 
Comprend  du  matiriai  suppMmentaIre 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  diaponibia 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

|~~|  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

[~T1  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I     I  Pages  detached/ 

r^  Showthrough/ 

I     I  Quality  of  print  variae/ 

r~n  includee  supplementary  material/ 

I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


Th( 
poi 
of 
flln 


Ori 
bei 
the 
sio 
oth 
firs 
sio 
or 


Th« 
sha 
Tin 
wh 

Me 
diff 
enti 
beg 
rigli 
reqi 
met 


Pagea  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissuaa,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  imege/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obacurciaa  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  4t*  filmtoe  A  nouveau  da  fa^on  A 
obtanir  la  meilleure  imege  possible. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentairas  supplAmantairas: 


Variout  pagingk 


This  item  is  filmed  at  tha  reduction  ratio  chaclced  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  film*  au  taux  da  reduction  indiquA  ci-deaaoua. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

2BX 

»X 

/ 

. 

n 

12X 

16X 

2DX 

a4x 

28X 

32X 

aire 

I  details 
luasdu 
t  modifiar 
Igar  una 
•  fllmaga 


Tha  copy  filmad  hara  has  baan  raproduead  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
posslbia  considaring  tha  condition  and  iagibllity 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


L'axampiaira  fllmi  fut  raproduit  grflca  A  la 
gAnArositAda: 

BibiiothAqua  nationaia  du  Canada 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  AtA  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  I'axamplaira  film*,  at  an 
conformM  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
fllmaga. 


/ 
jtes 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
baginnlng  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  lilustratad  impras- 
sion.  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  copias  ara  filmad  baginnlng  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  lilustratad  Impras- 
sion,  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  lilustratad  imprassion. 


Las  ajramplairas  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  an 
papiar  ast  imprimte  sont  filmAs  an  comman9ant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  sont  filmte  an  commandant  par  la 
pramlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 


Tha  last  racordad  frama  on  aach  microficha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  — ^  I  moaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  Y  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  applias. 


Un  das  symbolas  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
darnlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha,  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  — ►  signifia  "A  SUIVRE",  la 
symbols  V  signifia  "FIN". 


!ra 


Maps,  platas,  charts,  ate,  may  ba  filmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thosa  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraly  includad  in  ona  axposura  ara  filmad 
baginnlng  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  cornar,  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framas  as 
raquirad.  Tha  following  diagrams  illustrata  tha 
mathod: 


Las  cartas,  planchas,  tablaaux.  ate,  pauvant  Atra 
filmte  A  das  taux  da  reduction  difftrants. 
Lorsqua  la  document  ast  trap  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  an  un  saul  clichA,  11  ast  f  iimA  A  partir 
da  I'angia  supAriaur  gaucha,  da  gaucha  A  droita, 
at  da  haut  an  Ims.  an  pranant  la  nombra 
d'imagas  nAcassaira.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthoda. 


ly  arrata 
•d  to 

nt 

no  palura, 

i9on  A 


1  2  3 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

^^ 


% 


I 


vl 


^#; 


fb  D     A 

'ft  *    tM 


»» 


(llnitfb  states 

,  AMEBIC.  A.,     / 


*'.v«.y.v:/77/v>.* 

.^__  Pn'fiitlrJ  liiiiiils 
JM-Houu 


I 


t 


UN 


AN  ACC 


VAl 


l^- 


• 


•  <• 


•. 


^w 


TRAYELS 


IN   THS 


UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA. 


% 


IN   THE.  YEARS 


1806  ^  180r,  and  1809,  1810,  ^  1811 ; 


INCLUDING  * 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  PASSAGES  BETWIXT  AIMICA  AND  BRITAIN/ 

AND  ^    ■■ 

TRAVELS 

THROUGH 

VARIOUS  PARTS  OF  GREAT  BRITAIN,  IRBLAND, 

AND 

UPPER  CANADA. 


•i^i 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  EIGHT  MAPf. 


BF  JOHJSr  MEU8H. 


VWW«^««MMI^WWWWMW«l 


*» 


IN  TWO  yOI.UM£^. 

VOL.  I. 


•  PHILADELPmA, 

PRINTED  FOR  THE  AUTHOR, 
And  for  sale  by  the  different  Book«eUen  in  the  United  States^ 

Andlqr 
THOMAS  &  GEORGE  PALMER,      ^ 

Agents  for  the  Author; 
181«. 

A     ,       . 

jWf  T.  6*  <?«  ftiiMtfpfifiii^nt, 


■is  I 


»  1 


r  % : 


p. 


0- 


4 


^  ,  «p 


jVMi._ ' ^ 


i  / 


r 


:i^ 


'"W?- 


DISTRUB  OF  PENNSYLVANIA,  to  wst: 

/>-^        Bb  it  rHI^^bkbd,  That  on  the  twelfth  day  of  October,  in 

(t    s\  the  thirty .leveM  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States 
'    '/  of  America,  A.  D.  1813, 
'"^  '       Joitir  MkL)*R* 

of  the  said  district,  hath  deposited  in  thh  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the 
light  whereof  he  claims  as  author,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

Travebi  i«  tjtn^  United  9t4tes  of  America,  \»  the  ve||ni  1806^  ^fQf,  a^sd 
I'M,  1810,  &  1811 ;  including  an  Account  of  Pusages  betwixt  Ame* 
rica  and  Britain,  and  Travels  ^rough  various  parts  of  Great  Britain, 
Ireland,  and  Upper  Canada.  Illustrated  by  eight  Maps.  By  John 
Melish.    Intwovoju^*;    "     ' ' 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  intituled, 
**  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  cities  of 
maps,  charts,  and  btt>k%  n  fhfe  autho^itf  ^and' priiipri^ors  of  such  copies 
during  the  times  therein  mentioned.**  And  also  to  the  act,  entitled,  •*  An 
act  supplementary  to  an  act,  entitled,  <'  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of 
learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books  to  the  anthora 
and  proprietors  of  such  comes  durii^  the  times  therein  mentioned,'*  and 
extending  the  benefit  thpsedft*  Ike  arts  dfdesigniiigv'cngraving,  and  etch< 
Ing  historical  and  other  prints." 

D.  CALDWELL, 
Cleri  efihe  Dutrict  of  Paauyhtnaa. 


'% 


■;t 


:^' 


-m^t 


w    * 


'1^  ■»> 


pb£:face. 


ites 

s-l 

tlM 

''4 

1^ 

me* 

f 

un, 
obn 

lied,     • 

lOf 

*Mi, 

■-^iv'  "^ 

pics 
An 
tof 

•i-     ' 

hort 
and 
tch. 

1  HE  journal  of  a  traveller,  when  judicioudy 
compiled,  presents  a  living  picture  ot  the  state  of 
the  cduntry  through  which  he  passes;  white 
the  interest  that  is  excited  by  the  nairative  grati- 
fies the  fancy,  and  combines  to  render  this  at  once 
an  entertaining  and  instructive  species  of  reading. 
Hence  we  find  that  books  of  travels  have  of  late 
multiplied  to  a  great  extent,  and  are  always  in 
demand  with  the  public.  The  field  is  inexhausti- 
ble, and  must  continue  so  while  society  is  inapm* 
gressive  state. 

'  No  country  presents  a  more  ample  field  for  in- 
quiry than  the  United  States  of  America,  and  it  is 
equally  important  whether  we  view  it  in  regard  td 
the  inhabitants  of  America  or  of  Britain.  The 
former  find  themselves  in  possession  of  an  kn- 
mense  territory,  a  great  part  of  which  is  still  unoc- 
cupied, or  very  thinly  inhabited,  so  that  there  is 
room  for  the  industry  of  thousands  of  generations, 
yet  unborn ;   and,  as  if  by  the  special  ordier  of 


PBBFACB. 


Mi 

I* 
ii 


Provid^ce,  mankind  are  invited  into  the  most 
distant  regions  of  the  country,  by  the  advantages 
of  soil  and  climate,  no  where  exceeded  in  the 
world.  Sprung  from  the  only  country,  which,  at 
the  period  of  the  settlement  of  America,  possessed 
any  thing  like  rational  freedom,  the  principles  of 
the  popular  brandk  of  the  British  constitution  came 
into  practical  operation  unalloyed  by  the  feudal 
system.  These  principles  have  since  been  matur- 
ed into  the  full  developement  of  the  representa- 
tive system,  and  are  now  consolidated  and  con- 
firmed in  the  habits  and  manners  of  the  people ; 
conferring  a  degree  of  freedom  to  mankind  un- 
known in  Europe,  and  securing  to  industry  the  re- 

• 

ward  of  its  merit— peace  and  plenty.  Hence  the 
progress  of  population— of  agriculture— of  manu- 
factures—of the  arts  and  sciences— and  of  civili- 
zation have  been  rapid  beyond  all  former  example. 
The  contemplation  of  the  subject  is  animating  to 
the  mind;  it  inspires  confidence  in  the  future 
destinies  of  the  world ;  and  calls  forth  sentiments 
4>f  gratitude  to  the  supreme  Disposer  of  all  events. 
The  inhabitants  of  Britain  behold  in  America  a 
people  sprung  mostly  from  the  same  ancestors 
with  themselves;  they  speak  the  same  language; 
they  have  the  same  manners  and  habits ;  and  they 
'are  in  a  considerable  degree  governed  by  the  same 
laws.     Their  surplus  commodities,  and  their  de- 


i 


:mJ 


1^  !r^- 


PBBFACB. 


% 


f   I 


mand  for  British  manufactures,  have  for  a  long 
period  induced  an  exchange  highly  favourable  to 
Britain.  From  these  circumstances,  a  native  of 
Britain  finds  himself  a^  home  in  America,  and  thou- 
sands of  industrious  families,  who  have  met  with 
an  hospitable  reception,  and  a  happy  asylum  in 
the  land,  can  bear  ample  testimony  to  the  value  of 
it.  The  two  nations  are  indeed  formed  to  be 
mutually  beneficial  to  each  other;  and  though 
Providence,  for  wise  reasons  no  doubt,  has  allow- 
ed the  connection  to  be  cut  for  the  present,  yet  it  is 
to  be  hoped  it  will  be  again  revived  to  mutual  ad- 
vantage, for  there  is  one  link  in  the  chain — the 
identity  of  language — which  never  can  be  dis- 
solved. 

To  the  inhabitants  of  other  countries  America 
is  also  important,  as  it  holds  out  the  right  hand  of 
fellowship  to  all  nations,  unincumbered  by  en- 
tangling alliances  with  any;  and  though  many, 
who  visit  the  country  for  commerce  or  permanent 
settlement,  will  necessarily,  for  a  time,  labour 
under  some  disadvantages,  arising  from  a  different 
language,  and  other  local  circumstances,  yet  they 
will  find  an  hospitable  reception,  and  an  enjoy- 
ment of  perfect  freedom  and  security. 

When,  in  consequence  of  having  formed  a  com- 
mercial connection  in  the  United  States,  in  the 
year  1806,  it  became  necessary  for  me  to  visit  that 


# 


ii 


PRBFACE. 


country,  I  had  no  intention  of  publishing  my 
travels,  nor  did  I  think  that  my  observations 
would  have  been  sufficiently  extensive  or  interest* 
ing  to  be  laid  before  the  public.  But  many  cir^ 
cumstances  have  concurred  to  render  them  more 
important  than  I  had  originally  imagined ;  ahd  a 
second  journey  to  the  country  led  to  An  investiga'- 
tion,  the  result  of  which  I  now  consider  worthy  of 
pubUcation.  The  following  brief  review  will  il- 
lustrate my  motives  and  design,  and  it  is  with 
much  deference  submitted  to  a  candid  public. 

In  the  year  1798  I  made  a  voyage  to  the  West 
Indies*,  during  which  I  laid  the  foundation  of  a 
series  of  studies  on  geography,  astronomy,  natural 
philosopl^,  and  chemistry,  connected  with  navi- 
gation, and  the  theory  of  winds,  tides,  and  cur- 
rents, in  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  My  voyage  to 
America  afforded  an  ample  opportunity  for  resum- 
ing these  studies,  which  I  did  not  fail  to  take  ad- 
vantage of,  and  I  accordingly  kept  a  journal. 
After  landing  in  America  I  continued  my  journal ; 
and  circumstances  having  occurred  which  render- 
ed  it  necessary  to  make  a  more  extended  tour,  and 
to  reside  longer  in  the  country  than  I  originally 
intended,  I  used  every  diligence  in  my  power  in 


:<iM' 


*  I  have  delineated  the  tracks  of  this  voyage  on  the  ch^rt  of  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  in  order  to  show  the  course  of  vessels  generally 
between  the  West  Indies  and  Britain, 


'.'.?■> 


# 


H: 


■*? 


PRBFACS*  1^       VU 

nOiaking  observations,  and  committing  them  to  writ- 
ing. My  tour  was  rapid,  but  my  mode  of  pro- 
curii^g  inforniation  was  such  as,  I  trust,  will  render 
even  that  part  of  my  journal  not  uninteresting, 
p^ticularly  to  those  engaged  in  commerce. 

Previous  to  leaving  Britain,  I  had  perused  all 
the  '^  Travels  in  America"  to  which  I  had  access ; 
but  the  plan  of  none  of  them  pleased  me,  and  I 
found  many  of  tbem  to  contain  such  effusions  of 
ignorance  and  spleen,  that  I  came  to  the  resolu- 
tipn  to  discard  the  whole,  and  to  take  for  the 
^$19  of  my  information  Arrowsmith's  map,  and 
M)orse^8  Gazetteer  of  the  United  States.  With 
the«e  I  arrived  in  the  country,  and  they  were  my 
ecmstant  companions  in  my  travels  through  it. 
When  I  arrived  in  a  new  state,  I  examined  it  in 
lihe  map  and  gazetteer;  and  the  information  deriv- 
ed from  them  I  confirmed  or  corrected  by  personal 
bbservation,  and  information  from  those  to  whom 
I  hid  access,  I  observed  the  like  course  with  re- 
gard to  every  district,  town,  village,  lake,  or  river, 
which  I  passed  or  saw;  and  having  comn\itted  the 
result  to  paper,  in  the  shortest  manner  possible,  I 
(^mpiled  my  journal  from  these  notes  at  my 
feisur^*  I^  this  manner  I  travelled  through  part 
of  Geoi^,  South  Cdrolina,  New  York,  Rhode 
Iskmd,  Massachussetts,  Connecticut,  New  Jersey, 
Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  Maryland,  District  of 


PREFACE. 


Columbia,  Virginia  and  North  Carolina ;  so  that 
I  had  occasion  to  see  and  make  observations  on  all 
the  Atlantic  states,  including  the  principal  cities, 
rivers,  bays,  &c.  on  the  eastern  coast.  ; 

Next  year  I  returned  to  Britain,  where  I  follow- 
ed up  my  plan  of  making  memorandums,  princi- 
pally by  noticing  the  nature  of  the  American  trade, 
and  the  manufactures  in  Britain  calculated  for 
America.  ^  *j 

The  commercial  pursuits  in  which  I  had  been 
engaged  having  been  interrupted,  I  returned  to 
America  in  the  year  1809,  in  order  to  re-organize 
the  business,  or  to  wind  it  up ;  and,  having  oc- 
casion to  travel  extensively  through  the  inferior  6f 
Georgia,  I  extended  my  remarks, ^md  found  van 
opinion  forced  upon  me,  that  should  the  restrictions 
on  commerce  be  of  long  dui^ation,  America  wovdd 
become  a  manufacturing  country,  and  consequent- 
ly would  be  in  a  great  measure  independent  o£ 
Europe.  That  opinioit  received  strength  and  con* 
$rmation  duringaresidenpe,in  New  York  in  1810, 
where  I  was  fruitlessly  employed  in  looking. out 
for  ioercantile  em|)loyment.  ,   ,, 

In  the  early  part  of  the  year  1811,  having 
observed  a  regency  in  Britjun  without  a  change  of 
oouncils,  or  the  removal  of  the  restrictions  oa 
commerce,  I  considered  that  the  commercial  rela- 
tions between  America  and,  Britain  wovdd  not  bjc 


.'.'»'»',  ■■ 


:i 


PREFACE. 


IX 


Speedily  resumed,  and  considered  it  necessary  to 
look  out  for  other  employment.  In  search  of  this 
I  came  to  the  resolution  of  making  a  tour  into  the 
interior  of  the  country,  and  being  assisted  by  some 
kind  friends,  I  was  enabled  to  procure  such  a  stock 
of  valuable  information,  that  I  now  thought  it 
would  be  of  importance  to  collect  materials  with  a 
view  to  the  publication  of  my  whole  travels,  anii 
to  conduct  my  inquiries,  in  my  proposed  tour,  ac- 
cordingly. ^ 

This  tour  was  performed  to  my  entire  satisfac- 
tion, and  the  result  of  my  inquiries  appeared  so 
important  that  the  publication  was  determined  on^ 
provided  the  plan  met  public  apprpbation.  With 
a  view  of  ascertaining  that,  point,  a  prospectus  was 
issued,  and  a  subscription  list  promoted,  the  result 
of  which  has  exceeded  my  most  sanguine  expecta- 
tions;  for  though  I  was  able  to  take  the  sense  of 
but  a  small  portion  of  the  community  compara- 
tively, I  obtained  a  very  large  and  most  respecta- 
ble list  of  subscribers. 

Encouraged  by  this  honourable  patronage,  I 
have  endeavoured  to  improve  upon  my  original 
plan,  and  have  added  a  great  variety  of  matter  not 
contemplated  in  the  outlines,  that  the  work  might 
embody  a  complete  geography  of  the  United  States. 
This  is  the  first  attempt  that  has  come  under  my 
observation  to  incorporate  a  geographical  descrip- 

VOL.  I.  b 


M 


PBEVAOE. 


tion  of  a  country  in  a  journal  of  travels,  and  I  hope 
it  will  not  be*  without  its  use  to  the  public.  That 
it  might  be  as  complete  as  possible,  I  have  noticed 
even  those  states  and  territories  that  I  did  not 
travel  through,  selecting  those  parts  of  the  narra- 
tive for  their  introduction  that  I  thought  would  be 
most  appropriate.  In  the  description  of  the  eastern 
states  the  population  is  given  by  the  census  of 
1800,  because  that  of  1810  was  not  taken  when  I 
travelled  through  them  ;  but  the  statistical  table  and 
census  of  the  United  States  introduced  into  the 
work,  present  a  view  of  the  population  to  the 
latter  period,  and  I  have  occasionally  added  notes 
at  some  of  the,  cities.  The  original  design  con- 
templated a  pretty  large  appendix  to  the  second 
volume  ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  plan  adopted,  a 
considerable  part  of  the  matter  appropriated  to  it 
has  been  incorporated  into  different  parts  of  the 
work,  and  the  remainder  has  been  mostly  introdu* 
ced  into  the  chapter  entitled  "United  States."  t 
As  I  have  always  considered  books  of  travels 
to  be  very  defective  when  unaccompanied  by  maps, 
I  have  spared  no  labour,  nor  expence,  to  have  a 
good  set  of  maps  to  illustrate  this  work.  They 
have  been  drawn  with  great  care  from  the  best 
materials  to  which  I  could  get  access,  aided  by 
much  local  information;  and  the  engraving  has 
been  executed  by  tlie  first  artists  in  Philadelphia. 


'»i 


^ 


if?  ■ ' 


PREFACE. 


351 


i> 


iHi 


The  maps  are  eight  in  number,  and  at  the  rate  at 
which  similar  engravings,  are  usually  sold,  they  are 
worth  more  than  two-thirds  of  the  price  to  subscri- 
bers for  the  whole  work.  At  the  close  of  the  second 
volume  I  have  added  an  alphabetical  index,  which 
will  serve  in  some  respects  the  place  of  a  gazet- 
teer. 

In  short,  no  pains  nor  expence  has  been  spareil 
to  render  the  work  worthy  of  public  patronage ; 
and,  with  a  view  of  making  it  acceptable  to  the 
whole  public,  I  have  avoided  all  notice  of  local 
politics,  except  sometimes  a  mere  casual  observa* 
tion,  net  calculated  to  reflect  on  any  party.  On 
the  relations  between  this  country  and  Britain  I 
have  been  compelled  to  be  more  pointed.  The 
late  conduct  of  those  who  administer  the  aftairs  of 
England  has  not  been  of  a  nature  merely  specula- 
tive. It  has  involved  a  moral  principle,  and  af« 
fected  the  best  interests  of  the  human  race.  The 
conduct  adopted  towards  the  United  States  in* 
fiuenced  my  own  proceedings  in  a  very  considera- 
ble degree.  In  conducdng  my  narrative,  it  was 
absolutely  necessary  to  notice  it;  and  I  have  done 
so  agreeably  to  what  I  consider  the  rules  of  truth. 
Many  of  my  readers  may  differ  with  me  in  opinion 
on  this  subject :  to  such  I  have  merely  to  remark, 
that  I  have  hazarded  no  opinion  lightly,  nor  with- 
out due  examination.     My  information  has  beea 


Xii  PREFACK. 

drawn  from  the  most  correct  sources,  both  in 
Britain  and  America.  I  have  never  been  connect^* 
cd  with  any  political  party,  and  I  am  conscious  of 
being  free  from  any  bias,  but  a  sacred  regard  for 
truth  and  justice.  Still,  however,  errors  may  have 
escaped  me :  I  am  open  to  conviction ;  and  if  they 
are  pointed  out,  it  will  give  me  sincere  pleasure  to 
oorrect  them. 

To  my  numerous  and  very  respectable  subscri- 
bers, and  those  gentlemen  who  favoured  me  with 
information,  I  beg  leave  to  return  my  most  sincere 
thanks  for  their  encouragement .  and  assistance ; 
and  my  thanks  are  due  to  the  American  public 
generally,  for  the  kind  attention  with  which  I  have 
been  treated  during  my  extensive  travels  through 
the  country. 

On  the  other  hand,  I  trust  this  work  will  be 
found  not  altogether  unworthy  of.  public  attention. 
Independent  of  the  casual  information  collecte4 
while  I  was  engaged  in  other  pursuits,  it  has  beea 
the  result  of  incessant  labour,  of  both  b6dy  and 
mind,  for  nearly  two  years,  in  which  I  have  had 
every  aid  that  books,  maps,  charts,  and  verbal  in- 
formation could  give  me.  If  it  is  found  defective, 
I  have  no  plea  but  want  of  capacity ;  I  have  done 
my  best.  As  the  facts  have  been  collected  with 
great  care,  so  they  have  been  communicated  with 
^  strict  adherence  to  truth,  and  with  a  view  of  pro- 


PBSFACB. 


m 


moting  the  best  interests  of  mankind,  by  a  sincere 
friend,  who  has  no  motive  for  deceiving  them. 
With  these  observations  I  consign  the  work  to  the 
tribunal  of  the  public,  and  I  shall  bow  with  sub- 
mission to  their  decree. 

JOHN  MEUStt. 

Philadelphia^  October  1^^  \^\2. 


1 


it^ 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


VOLUME  I. 


■*if^^ 


•tf^j^,.i»^ 


It REFACE.  Importance  of  books  of  travels* .  .Importance  of  the  United 
States. .  .Motives  and  design  of  publication. .  .Voyage  to  the  West  Indies  and 
studies  connected  with  it . .  •  Continued  in  a  voyage  to  America . . .  Mode  of  pro* 
curing  information. .  .Change  of  circumstances. .  .Tour  to  the  western  coun- 
try.. .  Explanation  of  the  plan . . .  Engravings . . .  General  remarics. 

INTRODUCTION,  page  1.  Description  of  Glasgow. .  .Change  of  coun- 
cils in  Britain...Probability  of  a  lasting  peace  with  America... Prepare  to 
embark  for  that  countiy. .  .Advice  to  those  about  to  undertake  a  sea  voyage 

•  • .  Cabin  passage . . .  Single  passengers,  families . . .  Steerage  passage .  • .  Gene- 
ral reiparks  to  be  attended  to  at  sea. 

CHAPTER  I.  p.  9.  Depart  from  Glasgow. .  .Paisley. .  .Extensive  view.  •  • 
River  Clyde . . .  Greenock . . .  Configuration  of  the  country . . .  Frequent  rains  on 
the  west  coast . . .  Anecdote . . .  Passengers . . .  Sail  from  Greenock . . .  Firth  of 
Clyde... Arran...AilsaCrMg...MuU  of  Cantyre... Atlantic  ocean. ..A  fair 
wind ...  A  gale . . .  Head  winds . . .  Bermudas . . .  Gulph  stream .  . .  American 
coast. . . Savannah  river. 

CHAPTER  II.  p.  18.  General  remarks. . . Occupations  at  sea. .  .Winds  in 
the  Atlantic  ...Trade  winds.  ..Variable  winds... Gulph  stream. .  .Banks  of 
Newfoundland... Islands  of  ice... Courses  across  the  Atlantic  at  different 
seasons. 

CHAPTER  HI'  p.  35.  Reflections  in  Savannah . .  .Description  of  the  city 
...Trade... Country  in  its  vicinity... Articles  of  commerce... Exports  and 
imports . . .  Savannah  river. 

CHAPTER  IV. p. 29.  Journey  up  the  country... Rords...Craekg... An 
inn... Remains  of  a  burnt  negro... Sultry  weather... Taverns... Domestic 
manufactures. .  .Pine  barrens. .  .Remarks  on  health. .  .Construction  of  cities 

•  ..Draining... Effects  of  oxygen... A  methodilt  church... Reflections  on 
camp  meetings... Baptists... Wayqpborough... Mill*  and  machineiy... Ar- 
rive at  Louisville. 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V.  p.  39.  Deicription  of  Loidsvittet  •  .A  fever. .  .An  expeii- 
incnt... Kindness  of  Dr.  Powell... SUte-houie... New  purchaie... Lottery 
of  public  lands... Reflections  thereon... Anniversary  of  independence... A 
toast . . .  American  character . . .  Leave  Louisville . . .  Richmond  springs ...  A 
poet. .  .Set  out  for  Augusta. 

CHAPTER  VL  p.  47.  Augusta. .  .Country  round  it. .  .Cross  Savannah  r!* 
ver. .  .North  Carolina. .  .Hospitality  of  the  planters. . .  A  country  store. .  .Re- 
cross  Savannah  river. .  .Signs  of  a  storm. .  .Remarkable  electric  spark*.  .Ar* 
rive  in  Savannah. .  .Prepare  to  go  to  New  York. 

CHAPTER  VII. p.  52.  Passage  to  New  York... A  fair  wind...Gulph 
stream. . .  A  severe  gale. .  .A  calm. .  .Clear  weather. .  .High  lands  of  Never- 
sink . . .  Sandy  Hook .  • .  Long  Island . . .  Statcn  Island . . .  Narrows . . .  Quarantine 
ground ...  Bay  and  islands . . .  Brookl)?! . . .  New  York.  « 

CHAPTER  VIII.  p.  57. '  Description  of  New  York. .  .Public  buildings.  .<: 
Markets. .  .Schools. .  .Trade. . .  Police . . .  Pnlitim. . .  Press. . .  Parties. .  •Tho- 
mas Paine. .  .Yellow  fever. .  .Table  of  the  weather. 

CHAPTER  IX. p.  67.  Journey  to  the  New  England  states... East  river 
...Hell>gate...Long  Island  sound... EUegant  views... A  courtship. . .Race 
. .  .Narraganset  bay. .  .Newport. . .Fine  views. .  .Beautiful  female. .  .Another 
courtship. .  .Providence. .  .Geographical  arrangement. 

CHAPTER  X.  p.  76.    Rhode  Island. . .Situation. . .Extent . . ,  Area. . tjf 
face  of  the  country. .  .Minerals. .  .Soil. .  .Climate. .  .Settlement  and  progrest 
. . .  Civil  divisions  and  population  . . .  Improvements . . .  Towns . . .  Roads. .  • 
Bridges. .  .Agriculture  and  produce. .  .Manufactures. .  .Commerce. .  .State  of 
society ...  Government. 

M CHAPTER  XL  p.  80.  A  disappointment. .  .Effects  of  it. .  .Retaliation. . . 
Leave  Providence. .  .Rule  for  swearmg. .  .Patucket  river. .  .Cotttm  manufiic. 
tures. .  .Reflections  and  calculations  on  the  cotton  trade. .  .Massachuaetts. • . 
Dedham . . .  Beautiful  prospects . . .  Boston  neck . . .  Boston. 

CHAPTER  XII.  p.  89.  Discription  of  Boston . . .  Public  buildings . . .  Mar- 
kets . . .  Commerce . . .  Manufactures . . .  Banks . . .  Societies . . .  Character  of  the 
inhabitants. .  .State-house. .  .Fine  view. .  .Bridges. .  .Jaunt  to  Salem. .  .Char- 
lestown. .  .Bunker's  hill. .  .Mystic  river. .  .Swamp  and  floating  bridge. .  .Lynn 
...Expensive  turnpike.^. Salem... Wharves  and  shipping... Reflections... 
Return  to- Boston.  .      ,:*v>i  ;.,^.    ..,_,.<,)  i^i,, ,    _,  ■(f^rc 

CHAPTER  XIII.  p.  97.    NewHampshire.  .  .Situation. .  .Extent. . .  Area 
...Face  of  the  country... Mountains... Lakes... Rivers... Minerals... Soil 
. . .  Climate . . .  Settlement  and  progress ...  Civil  divisions  and  population . .  ,^ 
Improvements... Towns... Roads... Bridges... Agriculture  and  produce... 
Manufactures. .  .Commerce*.  .SUte  of  society. .  .Government 

CHAPTER  XIV.  p.  102.    Vermokt.,.  Situation . .  .Extent. .  .Area... 
Face  of  tlie  country. .  .Mwmtains. .  .Rivers. .  .Minerals. .  .goU. .  .CMmatc. , ., 


ov  B 


kM: 


aOKTBNTS. 


XVU 


'4 


SttUamtnt  and  profm** •  •Civil  dli^ilona  and po|mUtion. . .Improvements. . . 
Towns  •  •  •  Agiicuhiire  Mid  produoe . .  •  Maoufactures . . .  Commeree . . .  State  of 
society .. .  Government 

CH A PTKR  XV.  p.  106.  Leave  Boston . . .  Mail  sUf e . . . Company. .  •  Cam* 
bridge . . .  General  remarlu  • « •  Weston . . .  Beautiful  eountry  girl . . .  Worcester 
. . .  Brookfteld. .  .Western. . . A  contrast. < . Chearftil  company. . .  Handsome 
girls. .  .Jealousy. .  .Springfield. .. Connecticut  river. .  .Suffield. 

CHAPTER  XVI. p.  113.  Massaohvsbtts... Situation... Extent... Area 
•  •  .Face  of  the  country. .  .Waters. .  .Minerals. .  .Soil  and  agriculture. .  .Cli* 
mate.  *  .Settlement  and  progress. .  .Ciril  divisions  and  population. .  .Improve- 
ments . . .  Towns . . .  Roads . . .  Bridges . . .  Manufactures . . .  Commerce . . .  State 
of  society. .  .Religion. .  .Literature. .  .Education. .  .Government. .  .District 
ov  Maine. .  .Settlement.  ..Population. .  .Improvements. .  .Towns* .  .Soil. . . 
Commerce. .« State  of  society. .  .Climate. 

CHAPTER  XVIL p.  lift.  Windsor. .  .Kartfbrd.  ..Additional company. . . 
Odd  notions. .  .Handsome  giris. .  .Fruit. . . Wallingfi>rd. .  .Church built  by  the 
produce  of  onions.  ..Blooming  girls. .  .Elegant  country. .  .Fine  views. .  .New* 
luven . . .  MiUford . . .  Housatonic  river . .  •  Stamford. 

CHAPTER  XVIIL  p.  123.  Cowvsoticut.  .  .Situation. .  .Extent. .  .Area 
• .  .Face  of  the  country. .  .Hills..  .Rivers. .  .Minerab. .  .Soil. .  .Climate. .  .Set. 
tlement  and  progress... Civil  divisions  and  population... Improvements... 
Towns . . .  Roads . . .  Agriculture  and  produce . . .  Manufactures . . .  Commeroe 
. . .  State  of  society . . .  Education . . .  Government. 

CHAPTER  XIX.  p.  13&  Yankee  dialect. .  .Horsenttk. . .  Anecdote. .  .Rye 
• .  .York  Island. .  .New  York. .  .Thomas  Pune. . .  An  essay. 

CHAPTER  XX.p.  133.  New  Yokx. .  .Situation. .  .Extent. . . Area. . .Face 
of  the  country^ ». Mountains. .  .Lakes. .  .Rivers. .  .Minerals..  .Springs. .  .Soil 
ft. Climate... Settlement  and  progress... Civil  divisions  and  population... 
Improvements. .  .Cities,  towns,  and  villages. .  .Roads. .  .Bridges. .  .Canals. . . 
Agriculture  and  produce . . .  Manufactures . . .  Commerce . . .  State  of  society . . . 
Government . . .  State  funds. 

CHAPTER  XXI.  p.  139.  Leave  New  York. .  .Intelligence  of  the  stage 
drivers. •  .Jersey. .  .Bergen. . . A  swamp. .  .Hackensack  river. .  .Passaic  river 
. .  .Newark. .  .Elizabethtown. . .  Woodbridge . . .  Rariton  river. .  .Brunswick 
.  • .  Kingston « . .  Princeton ...  A  commencement ...  Ball .. .  Music  and  dancing 
...Trenton. 

CHAPTER  XXII.  p.  144  Nxw  Jxksxt.  .  .Situation. .  .Extent. .  .Area.. . 
Face  of  the  country . . .  Minerals . » .  Soil . . .  Cliiiate . . .  Settlement  and  progress 
. .  .Ciril  divisions  and  population . . .  Improfements  . . .  Towns. .  .Roads. .  ^ 
Bridges y. .Projected  canal... Agriculture  and  produce. ..Manufactures... 
Commerce . .  .Edutation. .  .Govwnment. 

VOL.1.  C 


'  ii 


t 


xviii 


COHTBHTB. 


CHAPTER  XXIIX.  ^  U7.  Trenton  bridge. .  .DeUware  riter. .  .ReiideiiM 
of  general  Moreau. .  .Reilectiont. .  .America  compared  with  Europe. . .Bria- 
tol . . .  Frankford . . .  Philadelphia.  ^ 

CHAPTER  XXIV.  p.  150.  Detcription  of  Philadelphia. .  .Plan. .  .Popula- 
tion.. .  Buildinga . . .  Public  buildingi . . .  State-house . . .  Markets . . .  Manufac- 
tures... Trade  t..  State  of  society... Education... Societies... Police... Re- 
marks thereon. 

CHAPTER  XXV.  p.  156.  Floating  Bridge. . .  WaUr.works. .  .Remarka  on 
fUtration . . .  Sute  ■  prison . . .  Library . . .  Remarka  on  libraries . . .  Feale's  museum 
. .  .Schuylkill  bridge. .  .Jaunt  to  the  country. .  .A  flax  spinning>miU. .  .Falla  of 
Schuylkill...  Politics. 

CHAPTER  XXVI. p.  168.  PaiiiriYLVAiriA. .  .Situation. .  .Extent. . . Area 
. . . Face  of  the  country*  • .  Mountains . . .  Rivers . . .  Minerals . . .  SoU . . . Clintailn 
. .  .Settlement  and  prog^sa. .  .Civil  divisions  and  population. .  .Improvements 
...Cities  and  towns... Roads... Bridges... Canals... Agricidture  and  pro- 
duce . . .  Manufactures .  * » Commerce . , .  State  of  society . . .  Government 

CHAPTER  XXVII.  p.  177.  Land  and  water  stages. .  .Delaware  river. . . 
Country  on  its  banks . . .  Newcastle . . .  Low  marshy  landa. 

CHAPTER  XXVIII.  p.  179.  Delawaab.  .  .Situation. .  .Extent. . . Area 
. .  .Face  of  tbto  country. .  .Rivers. .  .Minerals. .  .Soil. .  .Climate. .  .Settlraient 
and  progress ...  Civil  divisions  and  population . . .  Improvements .  • .  Towns . .  • 
Agriculture  and  produce . . .  Manufacturea .  * .  Commerce . . .  Schools . . .  Consti- 
tution and  government. 

CHAPTER  XXIX.  p.  182.  Elk  river. . .  Chesapeake  bay. .  ^Extensive  view 
. .  .Susquehannah  river. . .Arrive  at  Baltimore. .  .Numeroua  company. . .Meet 
some  old  fellow-travellers. .  .Market. .  .Madame  Jerome  Bonaparte  and  child 
. .  .Cofiee«house . . . Library. . .  Ship-yards . . .  Agreeable  company. . .  Descrip- 
tion of  Baltimore . . .  Public  buildings . . .  Mam^actures . . .  Commerce . . .  Banka 
...Police. 

CHAPTER  XXX.  p.  187.  Mahtl aw  . . .  Situation . . .  Extent . . .  Area* . . 
Face  of  the  country. .  .Mountains. .  .Chesapeake  bay. .  .Rivers. .  .Minerals. . . 
Soil . . .  CUinate .  • .  Settlement  and  progress ...  Civil  divisions  and  population . . . 
Improvements... Cities  and  towns... Agriculture  and  produce... Manufao- 
tures .  f .  Commerce ...  Education ...  Government. 

CHAPTER  XXXI.  p.  ^93.  Leave  Baltimore . . .  Patapsco  creek. .  ^BIa- 
densburg. . .Washington. . .Capitol. . .Capitol  bill. . .Superb  view. 

CHAPTER  XXXIL  p.  195.  Washington. .  .Treasury. .  .Post4>ffie«. .  .Ca- 
pitol. . . Barracks . . . Remarks  on  the  army , . .  Navy-yard. . .  Geo^town. .  .Po- 
tomac river. .  .Road  lud  out  by  congress. 

CHAPTER  XXXIU.  p.  201.  \yait  on  Mr.  Jefierson. . .Conveifation. . . 
Notice  of  American  coipmercial  cities.. t Climate  and  season... Epid«mi« 


sick 
...1 


OONTIMTt. 


XlX 


1^ 


:'4 


•'K 


■iekneMf.Ytlkfw  ftvAr. .  *PalM's  eMay...IUMdi...InUnMl  Inpronmcnti 
• . .  Mwiufuturet .  • .  ScntimtnU  r«UtiT«  to  Mr.  Fox. 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. p.  307.  Diitriot  or  Colvmbia. . .Bitmit. . .Sitiu* 
tion. .  .Face  of  the  country  i « .8<^; .  iCUmate.  •  .Diyltiona.  .*  Improvement** . . 
Description  of  Wash i  n  .  to n  C ity . . .  Plen . . . Buildings. . . Public  buildings 
. . .  Markets . . « Manufactures . . .  )»utc  of  society .  • .  Police . . .  General  remark* 
on  British  and  French  iii4ucnce . . .  Pr  babUity  of  an  amicable  adjustment  of 
the  differences  with  Britain. . .  AleMitdha. 

CHAPTER  XXXV.  p.  215.  Leave  Alexandria . . .  OcCOquhan  creek. . . 
Agreeable  company. . .  A  repuhlic . .  .Songs  and  stories. .  .Dumfries. « .Frede- 
ricksburg. . .  Rappahannock  river . . .  Mattapony  river . . .  Ptfliunky  river . . .  York 
river... York i.* Hanover  court*house... Richmond.. » James  river. ..Naviga- 
tion..  .Canal. . .  Appamattox  river. . .  Petersburg. . .  Agreeable  company. .  * 
Nottaway rhrer.^.Meherrin  river. 

CHAPTER  XXXVI.  p.  336.  Viroinia  . .  .Jefferson's  Nntes. .  .Bounda- 
ries... Extent...  Area...  Face  of  the  country... Mountains... Rivers.. .Pas- 
sage of  the  Potomac  through  the  Mountains  • . .  Cascades . . .  Caves . . « Bloving 
cave . . .  Natural  bridge . . .  Minerals . . .  Soil . .  i  Climate . . .  Settlement  and  pro- 
gress... Civil  divisions  and  population... Towns... Roads... Navigation... 
Architecture . . .  Agriculture  and  produce . . .  Manufactures « . .  Commerce . . . 
State  of  society. . .Colleges. . .Education. . .Rellf^on. . .Government . . . Ex- 
tracts from  Mr^  Jefferson's  Notes. .  .On  government. .  .On  the  importation  of 
foreigners ...  On  manufactures,  agriculture,  and  commerce. 

CHAPTER  XXXvil.  p.  353.  Roanoke  river. . .  Warrenton. .  iTar  river. . . 
Nuse  river . . .  Raleigh . . .  Dismal  country . . .  Black  river . . .  Cape  Fear . . .  Fa- 
jretteville . . .  Lumberton ...  An  accident . .  •  Swim  the  horses  and  stages 

CHAPTER  XXXVIli.  p.  359.  North  Caroli va.  .  .Situation. . .Extent 
. . .  Area. .  .Face  of  the  country. .  .Mountains. .  .Rivers. .  •  Minersls. .  ^Soil. . . 
climate... Settlement  and  progress... Civil  dinsions  and  population... Im- 
provements..  .Towns. .  .Roads. .  .Ag^culture  and  produce « . .  Manufactures 
and  c6mmeree . . .  State  of  society . . .  Gk>vemment  ^ 

CHAPTER  XXXiX.  p.  364.  Flat  country .  . .  6ad  roads . . .  Methodist 
church . . . Swimming  creek . . . Little  Pedee  river. . .  AltercaUon  with  the  dri- 
ver... Reedy  creek...  Maple  «wamp... Great  Pedee  river  ...A  breakfast... 
Lynche*s  creek. .  .Blackmingo  creek. .  .Wilton. . . An  agreeable  Irishman* . . 
Fever  and  ague  * . .  A  dinner . . .  Black  river ...  An  old  friend . . .  Georgetown . .  • 
Culture  of  rice ...  A  causevray . . .  Santee  river^ .  .View  of  the  Atlantic  ocean 
. . .  Arrive  at  Oharleston. 

CHAPTER  XL.  p.  373-  A-  politician ...  A  fever . . .  Sudden  change  of 
weather. .  .Description  of  Charleston. 

CHAPTER  XLI.  p.  37U  South  C aroliha  . . .  Situation . . .  Extent. . . 
Area. .  .Face  of  the  country. .  .Hills. .  .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .SoU. .  .Climate 


XX 


CONTEKT8. 


Settlement  and  pngna*, . .  Civil  divitions  uid'pi)|Hilctkm. .  iliiipiibremcntf.  i  * 
Towns . . .  Agriculuire  and  prodttoe . . .  Manufactures . . .  Comneree . . .  State  of 
«Dciety. .  .Education.  ..GoveRimcnt. 

CHAPTER  XUi. p  385.  Pataajpe  to  Savaimtb  by  •ea...Tybe«  light- 
iioase. .  .Savannah..  .Death  and  character  of  a  fUend. .  .Hard  labour.  ..Flat- 
tering prospects . .  r  A  ne  w  connection . . .  Prepare  to  embarit  (br  Europe. 

CHAPTER  XLIII.  p.  288.  Gborgia.  .  .Situation . . .  Extent. . .  Are*. .  i 
Face  of  the  country. .  .Mountains. .  .Rivers. .  .Soil  and  Climate. .  .Settlement; 
and  progress . . .  Civil  divisions  and  population . . . Towns, . .  Agriculture  and 
produce^.... Education... Reflections  on   that  subjects.. Religion... Govwh- 

inent. 

CHAPTER  XLIV.  p.  394.  Embarlc  for  Europe . . .  Felklw  passengers.  • . 
Detained  in  the  river. ..A  fine  breeze. ..Fast  sailing. ..  A  eloop  of  war. ..A 
frigate . .  .Sea  diversions . . . Cape  Clear. . .  An  Irish  inlot  boatw .  .C6ve  of  Cork 
...TuBeur...Skerries4ig^t... Liverpool  pilot  boat... Head  winds... A  gale 
'. » .  Royle  lake. . .  A  cavalcade ...  An  ignorant  gidde . . .  Arrive  in  Liverpool, 
c  CHAPTER  XLV.  p.  300.  Change  of  counc'ds  in  Britain . .  .Probable  effect 
<ni  the  American  relations. .  .Am  political  doctrines. .  .Commercial  arrange- 
ment. .  I  Information  as  to  the  late  election. .  .Political  discussions. .  .Chairing 
the  members. .  .Political  motives. . .  An  intelligent  Liverpool  f^eman. 

CHAPTER  XLVL p.  ?05.  Set  out  for  Glasgow. .  .Ormskirk. .  .Preston 
4.. Lancaster... Conversation  with  a  London  merchaiit.. •  Kendal. ..  Shi^ 
fells. . .Geese  grazing. . .Penrith. .  .Thriving  farms. .  .CarUsle . . .  Manufkc- 
tures...Longtdn... Scotland... Extensive  view. . .Gretna  green... Laws  of 
marriage  in  ScotUuid... Rough  r6ad...Lockerby... Moffat... Cold  Weather 
. .  .Sources  of  the  Clyde. ..  Scottish  dialect. .  .Hamilton. .  .Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  XLVn.  p.  3ia  Journey  to  England. . .  Preston . .  .Manchester 
Liverpool. .  .Warrington. .  .Prescott . . .  Gilead  hall. . . Commercial  iarranjge- 
ihehts. . .  Manchester. . .  Antiquity. . . Extent .  . .  Manufactures . . .  Improved 
sfieam  <^ngine.  •  .Cotton  mills. . .Manufactures  for  America. .  .Bury. .  .Roch- 
dale..  .Halifax.  .  .Leeds. .  .Northalterton . .  .Durham . . .  River  Wear. .  .Ex- 
tensive views...  Reflections...  Newcastie  coal  trade... Morpeth... Alnwick 
.  .. Magnificent  castle... German  ocean... Berwick.  .  .  Dunbar* . .Elegant 
.Edinburgh... Singular  situation... Arthur's  seat... Salisbury  Craigs 


•'••i 

eedi 


view. 


. .  .Castie. .  .Calton  hill. .  .Lofly  houses. .  .Newtown. .  .Elegant  buildings. . . 
Bridges. .  .Leith. .  .Adjacent  country. .  .Courts  of  law. .  .Nobility  and  gentry 
of  Scodand... Education... State  of  society... Rapid  travelling... Arrive  at 
Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  XLVIIL  p.  319.  Plans  of  the  new  ministry. .  .Expedition  to 
Denmark. .  .Orders  in  council . . .  Consequences . .  .Journey  to  the  east  country 
. . .Cumbernauld. . .Forth  aid  Clyde  canal. . . Stirling. . .  Dumblane. . .River 
km. .  .Crieff. .  .Metbvejt  parish.  .  .Face  of  the  country. .  .River  Almond 


GONTCXTS. 


XXI 


iBcnts*  •  • 
,  .SUte  of 

Mte  ligKt- 

9pe. 

•  AMAa  •  k 

ettlemenft 
iltuMAnd 

war*..  A 
e  of  Cork 
..A  i^e 
rerpool. 
tble  effect 
i  arrang^- 
.  Chairing 

..Preston 
. . .  Shi^ 
Manufkc* 
.LaMTB  of 
Weather 

inehester 
iarrange- 
mproved 

.  .Roch- 
ar. .  .£x- 
Alnwick 

Elegant 
y  Craigs 
ding^ ... 
d  gentry 
irrive  at 

lition  to 
country 
..River 
Almond 


t 


4 


••  (Skul*  •  *  HwHon. » .PopuliKUoii.  •  .Occupationa* .  •Faroui*  *  •  Miaiiter. . .  Se- 
ccdera* .  .SdioolmMter. .  «Syatem  of  education. .  .Church. .  .Baptism. .  .Sece^ 
der  church . .  •  Calvinism .  •  •  I^foniscuous  dancinn;. . .  Scottish  musio  and  iianc- 
ing.4  .Perth. .  .Manufactures.  *  .Fisheries. .  .Education. .  .Return to  Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  XLIX.  p.  33L  Another  journey  to  the  east  country.  ..Edii^ 
bur|^*  ..Firthof  Forth.  ..Kinghom. .  .Kirkaldy. .  .Cupar. . .  A  garrulous  plas- 
terer. .  .Fine  ^ew. . . Firth  oi  Tay . .  .Dundee . . .  Auchtermouchty. .  .Falkland 
. . .  Palace . . .  Lomond  htUs . . .  Minerals . . .  Edinburgh  * . .  Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  L.  p.  3.?5.  Effects  i9(  the  orders  in  council. » .Jaunt  to  Edin- 
burgh ...Celebration  «f  Mr>  Fox*s  bifth^day... Toasts... Lord  Melville... 
Death  of  sir  John  Moo:*e  * . .  Cold  weather. . .  Return  to  Glasgfaw.     <       jj^Kt 

CHAPTER  LL p.  338.  Jounney  to  Ireland... KilBSfamockt.. Ayr... Dis- 
mal night  . .  .Girvaa . . .  Loch  Ryan . . .  Port  Patrick. . .  VioleHt  weather . . .  Head 
winds. .  .A  gale. .  .Return  to|Kirt. . .  A  fairlrind..  .IreJimd. .  .Belfast. .  .Hills- 
borough... BaMfbridfe...Duikdlrum  bay. ..A  shipwreck •..Ne wry... A  de- 
bifte. *  .Bainbridge...^  Dromore. .  .HilUboroug^. . .  Lislbum:.  <B«lfairt . .  .  Re- 
turn to  Newry. .  .Humorous  hosUer. .  .Newcastle,  o .  An  Iridi  family . .  .Whist 
parties. . .Anecdotes. .  .Irish  linen  trade. .  .Braztt  trade. « .Friends  from  Bel- 
fast. .  .Ballynahinch. .  .Medicinal  springs. .  .Hospitality  of  an  old  Irishwoman 
. . .  Counsellor  Trotter,  late  Mr.  Fo!!t*a  privite  seeretw^.        •  ^.  u* 

CHAPTER  LIL  p.  353.  Prepare  to  leave  Ireland  ...  Dowwpatrick... 
Strangford; . .  Amasing  rapid  tide . . .  Potto-ferry . . .  Donaghadee . . .  Reflections 
on  leaving  Ireland. .  .Port  Patriek. .  .Very  distant  view. .  .West  coast  of  Scot- 
land. .  .Bums*  birth-place. . .  Ayr. .  .Glasgow. 

CH  APTER  Lin.  p.  355.  Orders  in  council  witUdrawm . . .  Conduct  of  the 
shipping  interest... Pajber  blockade... Views  in  potitftcal  economy. i. Prepare 
to  embM<k  fbr  Anterica. .  .Edtnbui^  ^ . .  Dundee . . .  Ctolisfo . . .  Manchester. . . 
Leeds. .  .Sheffield. . .Nottingham. . .London. . .Vauxhall  gardens. . .Singular 
Occurrences. 

CHAPTER  LIV.  p.  36L  Leave  London  .  .  .  Oxford. .  .  Birmingham. . . 
Mineralogy . . .  Shrewsbury . . .  Cheslflb. . .  Liverpool . . . Reflections  on  the  situ- 
ation of  England  and  America. 

CHAPTER  LV.  p  365.  Engage  a  passage  for  America  by  the  Pacific. . . 
Passengers ...  A  dilemma ...  Irish  boatmen . . .  Pacific  sails . . .  C  ape  Clear . . . 
Head  winds... Ship  runs  out  of  the  bree7.e...Bank.(i  of  Newfoundland. .. 
Gulph  stream...  Lunar  observations ...  Sandy  Hook.  ..Information  from  the 
pilot. .  .Qiiarantine  ground. . .  Ai'rive  in  New  York. 

CHAPTER  LVI.  p.  371.  Journey  to  Philadelphia. .  .Commercial  discus- 
sions. .  .Negotiation  with  Britain  broke  off. .  .Passage  to  Savannah. .  .Effects 
of  the  stoppage  of  the  foreign  trade. 

CHAPTER  LVII.  p.  374.  Journey  up  tl»e  country. .  .Louisville. .  .Upper 
country. .  .Ogeeche  river. .  .Sparta. . .Domestic  manufactures. .  .Greensburg 


xxu 


CONTENta. 


• .  .OooMeriver». .  Appaltehyriver. .  .NewparehMe*.  .Mount  Vernon.  *  *iXm' 
diion...  Greeiuburg.-..  An  •lann...Inqidi7'«riiether  the  blacks  cm  orguiisie 
a  |dot to  destroy  the  white  people  in  the  southern  states... Wuhington*.^ 
Rs^s  mills... A manuftctory... Columbia  court-house... Augusta... An  old 
friend*.. Richmond  springs... Waynesboroug^... Great  revoluticm  in  eom- 
merce. .  .Cotton  manufactories r.  .Probable  consequences  of  the  coomiercial 
revolution. 

CHAPTER  LVIII.  p.  383.  Passage  to  Charleston ...  A  fever. .  .Sulli- 
▼an*s  Island. . .Passage to  New  YoA. .  .Head  vrinds. . . A  galen. ;  A  fiur  wind 
. .  .Arrive  in  New  Yoric. .  .Celebration  of  the  anniversary  of  independence. .  • 
Long  Island. .  .Jamaica. .  .Fine  view. .  .Ntwton. .  .Fruit. .  .Journey  to  Phila- 
de44iia...A  merry  party... A  bloody  nose. ..An  eccentric  preacher... A 
sleeping  fit. .  .Loss  of  two  hats.  •  .Return  by  the  steam-boat. .  .Stateii  Island 
. . .Qusrantine  ground... Agreeable  parties... Importsnce  of  temperance  in 
religious  and  political  cUscussions^  snd  of  avoiding  personal  abase. 

CHAPTER  LIX.  p.  39(K  Residence  in  New  York. .  .Negotiations. .  .Po* 
litical  views . . .  Progress  of  American  manufiictures  • . .  And  aU  hope  of  a  bene* 
ficial  trade  vrith  Britain  at  an  end. 

APPENDIX.    No.  L  p.  403.    Of  the  cause  of  the  yellow  feter,  and  tho 

means  of  preventing  it 
No.  II.  p.  411.    Letter  to  a  member  of  partiaroent  on  the  orders  in 

council  and  the  American  trade. ..Extracts  from  Mr.  Brouf^utm'a 

speech. 
Noi  III.  p.  433.    Remarks  on  the  Scottish  peasantry. .  .EslabUskmeiit 

of  the  Glasgow  public  library. .  .Regulations. 
Ko.  IV.  p.  44L    Obtervations  on  the  trade  between  Britain  and  Amc« 

rica. 


m 


«'j.a 


n.*«M«- 

m 

organisiB 

M 

ngtoo*.' 
..An  old 

'   1 

in  eom- 

M 

nmevcial 

■m 

'...SuUU 

• 

fuTDvind 

dence.** 

to  Philft* 

;  * 

iher*..A 

Bii  Island 

\  'i' 

nrance  in 

)ni«..Fo- 

1 

afabone* 

•| 

'f  and  the 

orders  in 
ougham's 

bUshment 

odAmc* 


.1 


,      ■* 


.W;  '  ' 


1# 


& 
«.-, 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  PLACING  THE  PLATES. 


^ 


VOL.  I. 


Map  of  the  United  States,  to  front  the  title. 
Chart  of  tiie  Atlantic  ocean,  to  front  page 


VSx* 


VOL.  n. 


View  of  the  country  round  Pittsburg,  to  front  page    54 
View  round  the  falls  of  Ohio,  149 

Map  of  Kentucky,  177 

Map  of  Ohio,  209 

View  of  the  country  round  Zanesville,  231 

View  of  the  country  round  the  falls  of  Niagara,        318 


«IWVW«^WW 


-,,'  s'V 


■may 
*Scot 
^77,3 
hous 


ERRATA. 


VOL.  I. 

Fage.  Line. 

1  5  from  top,        for  Grenock  read  Greenock. 

13  4  from  bottom,  for  Stora  read  Raugh^tn. 

130  15  from  bottom,  for  great  consolation  read  inconaoiable  affliction. 

256  10  from  bottom,  for  Wilmington  read  Fayetteville. 

380  3  from  top,        for  much  the  confidence  read  WMch  in  the  confUknce. 

409  15  from  bottom,  for  Corlder*s  hook  read  Corlaer't  hoot. 


VOL.  IL 

Page.      Line. 
64       7  from  top,  for  19tA  read  SOrA. 
130  bottom  line,      for  orchard  read  vineyard. 
385       8  from  top,  for  city  read  tovm. 


are. 


■i 


,{»»s.V 


!..,\-":.. 


INTRODUCTION. 


ge  54 
149 
177 
209 
231 
318 


i  I  SHALL  commence  my   introductoiy  remarks   by  a 
I  short  description  of  the  City  of  Glasgow. 
i       Glasgow  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  river 
J^  Clyde,  at  the  head  of  the  tide  water.    It  is  400  miles  from 
f  London,  42  from  Edinburgh,  an'l  22  from  Grenock,  which 
I  may  be  considered  as  its  port.     It  is  the  second  city  in 
i^Scotiand,  and  contained,  by  the  enumeration  of  1801, 
J  77,385  inhabitants.     The  city  is  regularly  built^  and  the 
houses,  being  all  of  free-stone,  have  a  very  elegant  ap- 
pearance.   The  public  buildings  are  numerous,  and  many 
of  them  splendid ;  among  which  may  be  reckoned  the  Ca» 
thedral,  the  Infinnary,  and  the  College  buildings ;  which  last, 
though  old  and  antiquated,  are  spacious,  and  the  institution 
is  esteemed  one  of  the  finest  seminaries  of  education  in  Bri" 
tain.  The  manufactures  of  Glasgow  have  arisen  to  great  ex- 
tent and  perfection,  particularly  those  of  cotton.    The  prin-' 
cipal  articles  of  manufacture  calculated  for  the  United  States 
are,  fancy  muslins  (a  sort  of  staple  commodity),  printed 
caliicos,  ginghams,  shirtings,  hosiery,  threads,  tapes,  ear- 
then and  glass  ware,  iron  ware,  &c.     Glasgow  is  also  a 
market  for  disposing  of  the  manufactures  of  the  other  parts 
of  Scotland,  particularly  of  Dundee,  Perth,  and  Fifeshire, 
such  as  sail  cloth,  cotton  bagging,  oznaburgs,  cotton  and 
linen  checks,  and  ticks- — of  Dunfermline,  table  cloths, 
Vol.  I.  A 


It 


•« 

u 


INTRODUCTION. 


sheetings,  and  towelings— of  Stirling  and  Kilmarnock, 
carpeting,  gloves,  &c.  The  returns  from  America  con- 
sist principiUly  of  cotton,  of  wliich  Glasgow  manufactures 
above  10,000  bales  annually. 

Having  served  an  ample  apprenticeship  to  business  in 
one  of  the  principal  manufacturing  houses  in  Glasgow,  I 
resolved,  in  the  beginning  of  the  year  1806,  to  commence 
business  on  my  ovvn  accoimt.  I  had  long  studied  the 
trade  to  the  United  States  of  America,  and  was  well 
aware  of  its  importance  to  both  countries ;  but  the  con- 
stant jealousies  which  had  existed  between  tliem,  during 
Mr.  Pitt's  administration,  induced  me  to  decline  embark- 
ing in  it.  Towards  the  close  of  the  year  1805,  a  change 
of,  councils  took  place  in  Britain,  and  at  the  head  of  the 
new  ministry  was  that  great  and  enlightened  statesman, 
Charles  James  Fox.  From  the  known  sentiments  of  Mr. 
Fox,  for  justice  and  moderation,  I  calculated  that  every 
thing  would  be  amicably  arranged  between  the  two  go* 
yemments,  for  I  never  had  any  doubt  as  to  the  just  and 
pacific  policy  of  the  United  States.  I  trusted  in  a  lasting 
friendship  between  the  two  countries,  and  on  a  great  and 
increasing  commerce;  and  I  accordingly  embarked  in  it 
with  all  tlie  ardour  of  commercial  enterprize ;  selecting 
for  my  branch  the  trade  to  Savannah,  in  Georgia,  in  which 
it  appeared  there  was  a  good  opening,  and  I  was  particu- 
larly well  acquainted  with  the  commodity  to  be  returned, 
cotton. 

Having  completed  my  purchases,  and  established  my 
connections,  I  resolved  to  go  to  America  in  person,  to 
establish  the  business  there,  and  made  prepaudons  for  tiic 
voyage  accordingly;  and  the  following  remarks,  grounded 
upon  an  essay  of  tlie  late  celebrated  Dr.  Franklin,  andtht- 


■  -1 

» 

"% 

res 

i 

oth 

f 

' 

} 

hav 

afe 

the 

.. 

pre^ 

• 

Ii 

alth 

. 

pen< 

i 

|be. 

man 

^and 

[tisfy 

1 

'  mak 

1 

mak 

Is      > 

a  sta 

f  1  surh 
M  pers( 

■^ 

f  self, 

I 

'i 

fit  w 

■ 

acco 

smal 

if  y( 

Si 

dra\^ 

m 

boar 

^ 

of  pj 

"S 

r 

w 

and 

•5W 

INTRODUCTION. 


Ill 


mock, 
a  con- 
ictures 

ness  in 
gow,  I 
imence 
ied  the 
as  well 
be  con- 

during 
^mbar^- 
i  change 
d  of  the 
utesman, 
s  of  Mr. 
at  every 
two  go* 
just  and 
a  lasting 
^at  and 
ked  in  it 
selecting 
in  which 

particu- 
•etumed, 

shed  my 
srsQn,  to 
is  for  tlic 
i^rounded 
,  andtht- 


result  of  a  good  deal  of  experience,  may  be  useful  to 
others.     I  have  summed  them  up  under  die  title  of     «  fe 


'■V 


^1 


Advice  to  those  about  to  undertake  a  Sea  Voyage* 

When  you  intend  to  take  a  long  voyage^  endeavour  to 
have  your  whole  business  transacted,  so  as  you  may  have 
a  few  days  to  spend  with  your  friends,  and  to  attend  to 
the  little  necessaries  that  may  be  requisite  on  the  voyage, 
previous  to  your  departure. 

It  is  not  always  in  a  person's  power  to  choose  a  captain, 
although  a  good  deal  of  the  comfort  of  the  passage  de. 
pends  upon  this  choice.  The  chief  requisites  are,  that  he 
be  a  good  seaman ;  attentive,  careful,  and  active  in  the 
sf  management  of  his  vessel ;  and  of  these  circumstances, 
and  indeed  all  others  relative  to  the  passage,  you  must  sa- 
tisfy yourself  before  setting  out,  for  there  is  no  use  in 
making  complaints  at  sea.  It  is  still  more  difficult  to 
make  choice  of  sociable  fellow-passengers.  A  ship  is  like 
a  stage-coach,  it  must  accommodate  all  comers ;  stnd  ohe 
surly  fellow  may  molest  a  whole  ship's  company.  But  a 
person,  by  having  resources  of  his  own,*  may  make  him^-. 
\  self,  in  a  great  measure,  independent  of  other  people,  and 
it  will  be  well,  before  going  on  board,  to  take  measures  to 
f  accomplish  that  desirable  object.  For  this  purpose,  a 
small  library  of  books  will  be  found  very  entertaining,  and 
if  you  have  any  turn  for  the  study  of  mathematics  and 
drawing,  you  will  have  a  good  opportunity  to  practise  on 
board ;  and  a  case  of  mathematical  instruments,  and  a  box 
of  paints  will  be  necessary. 

The  greater  part  of  the  carrying  trade  between  Britain 
and  America  is  performed  in  American  vessels,  and  a  cabin 


■^5 


IV 


UH'RODUCTIOK. 

passage  in  one  of  these  vessels  is  generally  very  agreeable. 
The  expence,  including  every  thing,  is  from  30  to  40 
guineas.  There  are  various  modes  of  laying  in  provisions. 
One  is  for  the  captain  to  provide  everything;  another  is 
to  provide  every  thing,  except  liquors ;  and  a  third  is  for 
the  passengers  to  furnish  every  thing,  at  their  joint  ex- 
pence.  If  the  captam  be  a  judicious  man,  there  will  ge- 
nerally be  a  good  supply,  in  eitlier  case.  But  it  may  not 
be  amiss,  for  those  who  can  aflbrd  it,  to  have  a  private 
assortment  of  good  tea  and  cordials;  should  they  not  have 
occfision  to  use  tliem  themselves,  they  may  have  an  op- 
poiitunity  of  serving  some  poor  steerage  passenger. 

There  is  generally  a  medicine  chest  on  board,  but  it  is 
sometimes  not  in  very  good  order ;  and  it  will  be  advisa- 
ble to  have  a  few  simple  medicines  of  your  own,  such  as 
rhubarb,  cream  of  tai*tar,  and  Peruvian  bark  ;  and  a  few 
dozens  of  spda  water  will  be  fpund  a  very  agreeable  be- 
verage. 

When  a  family  undertake  a  sea  voyage,  they  have  ge- 
nerally their  own  servant;  and  if  they  are  numerous,  they-, 
will  ^d  it  most  comfortable  and  most  economical  to  en- 
gage a  state-room,  and  lay  in  their  own  stores.  For  the 
information  of  such,  I  shall  here  subjoin  a  list  of  the  most 
essential  articles.  » 

They  are  entitled  to  the  ship's  provisions ;  biscuit,  salt 
beef,  pork,  peas,  &c. — In  addition,  they  will  require  meal,  • 
barley,  Hour,  potatoes,  pigs,  ducks,  fowls,  porter,  wine, 
and  spirits.  Beef,  mutton,  and  loaf  bread  will  keep  fresh 
eight  or  ten  days  at  sea,  and  it  should  be  always  laid  in, 
^  as  it  proves  not  only  a  considerable  saving  to  the  fresh 
stock,  but  is  generally  more  grateful  to  the  stomach  at 
tjwt  period  thJin  any  other  food.  .,, 


itj- 


:% 


pro^ 
con 
sug 
cess 
tofi 
to  r 
whi( 
vide 
arc  ; 
man 
|wou 
pass 
tlie 
agai 

A 
shaU 

A 
get 
bec£ 
and, 
ston 
ness 
food 
dayj 
be  a 
or  M 
go  I 
oft] 
exer 
t^r  \ 


i'il 


INTRODUCTION. 


eeable. 
to  40 
isions. 
>ther  is 
1  is  for 
int  ex- 
vill  ge- 
lay  not 
private 
othave 
an  op- 


,vu 


»ut  it  is 
advisa- 
siich  as 
d  a  few 
ible  be- 

ave  gC: 
is,  they 
I  to  en- 
Tor  the 
ke  most 

lit,  salt 
emeal, 
wine, 
!p  fresh 
laid  in, , 
e  fresh 
lach  at 


m 


The  expence  of  a  steerage  passage  is  about  twelve  gui- 
neas,  and  the  passengers  are  entitled  to  the  whole  ship's 
provisions  before  enumerated;  but  to  make  themselves 
comfortable,  it  will  be  proper  to  add  a  little  stock  of  tea, 
sugar,  liquors,  barley,  and  oat  meal.  It  is  generally  ne- 
cessary, both  in  the  cabin  and  steerage,  for  th^  passengers 
).  to  furnish  their  own  bedding.  I  may  take  occasion  here 
§  to  remark,  that  this  practice  is  an  improper  one.  Vessels 
which  are  calculated  to  carry  passengers,  should  be  pro- 
I  vided  with  bedding,  particularly  in  the  cabin  births.  They 
1  arc  furnished  at  no  great  expence,  and  one  set  would  serve 
^  many  passages,  so  that  the  expence,  during  one  passage, 
%  would  be  trifling :  whereas,  t>y  the  present  practice,  each 
'  ipassenger  is  subjected  to  a  considerable  expence,  besides 
^i^ie  trouble  of  purchasing  his  bedding,  and  of  selling  it 
again  at  the  close  of  the  passage.         » 

A  few  general  remarks,  to  be  attended  to  while  at  sea, 
shall  conclude  this  article. 

A  short  time  after  setting  sail,  the  passengers  generally 
get  sea  sick.     This  complaint,  though  lightly  esteemed, 
because  not  dangerous,  is  often  very  severe  while  it  lasts, 
and,  if  treated  improperly,  it  may  cause  a  relaxation  of  the 
^  stomach,  that  will  be  very  troublesome.     While  the  sick- 
p  ness  continues,  people  have  an  aversion  to  all  kinds  of 
-  food  and  drink.     Many  abstain  from  both,  three  or  four 
days.     This  is  a  bad  plan.     The  stomach  should  never 
be  allowed  to  get  entirely  empty.     A  little  chicken  broth 
or  water  gruel  should  be  freely  used ;  and  people  should 
go  upon  deck  as  soon  as  possible.     Breathing  the  foul  air 
of  the  cabin  or  steerage  promotes  the  disease ;    whereas 
exercise  and  free  air  on  deck  relieve  it.    A  little  soda  wa- 
t^r  will  at  this  time  be  very  exhilarating ;  and  as  soon  as 


'm 


VI 


INTilODUOTrOK. 


the  stomach  is  so  far  cleansed  as  to  keep  free  from  netch- 
ing,  a  little  Peruvian  bark  will  be  very  beneficial  as  a 
restorative.  Care  should  be  taken  to  guard  against  cos- 
tiveness,  a  very  troublesome  complaint  at  sea.  Attention 
to  diet  and  exercise  will  often  prevent  it ;  but  where  that 
fails,  a  little  laxative  medicine,  such  as  rhubarb,  cream  of 
tartar,  or  castor  oil,  should  be  resorted  to. 

When  the  weather  is  good,  people  should  rise  early. 
The  air  of  the  cabin  is  not  only  affected  by  the  respira- 
tion of  th&  passengers,  but  is  often  contaminated  by  the 
bilge  water ;  wliile  the  sea  air  on  deck  is  always  pure  and 
healthy.  The  breakfast  hour  at  sea  is  8  o'clock,  dinner 
1,  and  supper  6  or  7.  It  is  a  general  rule  amongst  the 
pas^ngers,  to  have  themselves  washed  and  dressed  before' 
sitting  down  to  breakfast.  Betwixt  breakfast  ?^iid  <*iriner,' 
the  time  may  be  profitably  employed  in  walking,- reading,* 
drawing,  &c. ;  and  such  as  have  a  taste  for  navigation 
will  have  a  good  opportunity  for  practical  improvement, 
as  they  can  have  access  to  the  log-look ;  and  the  captain 
and  mates  are  generally  very  obliging,  in  lending  their  na- 
vigation books  and  instruments  to  those  who  wish  them.  ^ 

w  Temperance  at  table  is  necessary  every  where,  and  es^ 
pecially  at  sea,  where  the  exercise  is  necessarily  limited^' 
Where  wine  is  used,  three  or  four  glasses  will  generally 
be  found  more  beneficial  than  a  larger  quantity;  and  peo- 
ple ought,  on  no  account,  to  indulge  themselves  at  the 
table  a  whole  afternoon,  though  it  is  frequently  done.  It 
is  much  better  to  take  exercise  in  the  open  £ur  on  deck,  v^) 

In  the  evening,  the  company  frequently  amuse  them- 
selves at  cards,  backgammon,  &c. ;  these,  when  resorted 
to  for  amusement  only,  are  rational  and  innocent  enough; 
but  when  the  play  is  for  money,  they  ought  to  be  avoided. 


I 


INTRODUCTION. 


vii 


n  netch- 
al  as  a 
ist  cos- 
ttention 
lere  that 
ream  of 


»t 


e  early, 
respira- 
i  by  the 
ure  and 

dinner 
igst  the 
I  before 
<*5riner, 
wading,' 
k^igation 
irement, 
captain 
^eir  na- 
them, 
md  es" 
imitedl 
jnerally 
id  peo- 

at  the 
tie.     It 

them- 
esorted 
lough; 
b^oidedt 


I  may  add^  that,  generally  speaking,  peo]/1e^  hapf  jiess 
is  very  much  in  their  own  power.  A  suavity  of  mai. tiers, 
and  an  obligingly  civil  deportment,  is  calculated  to  secure 
the  esteem  of  mankind ;  and  when  things  are  not  exactly 
as  we  would  wish  them  to  be,  it  will  add  to  our  own 
comfort  to  take  them  as  we  find  them. 


\'j 


'.'I'ir 


:'^3 


VOL.  i. 


(  tr'  ■'TwvsunJKavwn. ,- 


CHART 
of  tl\e 

O  e  E  A 

luintoiixJi  cuf 


TRAVELS 


-I. 


IN 


THE  UNITED  STATES,  &c. 


CHAPTER  I. 

GlasgffWr^Qreenofk, — Savannah*  \ 

Laving  shipped  my  goods  on  boaard  the  ^iip  WaiV 

captain  Hk^ley,  bound  from  Gieei)ock  to  Sa« 

^anm^,  I  set  out  from  Glasgow  £or  Greenock  by  the  .stage 

:oach,  on' Saturday,  the  8th  of  March)  1806.    There  me 

two  roads  from  Glagow  to  Greenock,  the  one  direct,  by 

[Renfrew,  the  other  by  Paisley.    The  stage  took  the  letter 

i  route,  which  lies  through  a  level,  weU-cultivated  country^ 

id  pretty  fertile,  to  Pai^y. 

Paisley  is  7  miles  distant  from  Glagow,  and  b  an  irre^ 
ilarly  built  town,  the  streets  mosdy  narrow,  and  not  very 
[clean.  It  contains  upwards  of  30,000  inhabitants  $  an^ 
[the  principal  manufactures  are  fancy  imislins  and  threads^ 
silks  and  gauzes.  The  peqile  are  veiy  industrioufl^ 
9pA  there  is  moie  el^;ance  and  tastediqilayed  in  the  ^kncjr 
goods  of  th£^  town  than  in  any  other  that  I  have  seer^ 
From  Paisley  towards  Greenod^^  the  countiy  continues 
level  for  two  miles,  and  then  the  road  rises  for  about  fivtf 
mUes,  with  a  gradual  ascent,  to  Bishoptown,  wlieie;  tiier^ 
is  a  very  fine  view*  To  the  west  is  a  full  view  of  this 
river  Clyde,  which  expands  to  die  breadth  of  seven  mitei^ 

VOL.  i.  B 


Ipm. 


4ti#' 


10 


TRAVELS   IN 


1 


having  Greet)iOck  and  Port  Glasgow.  o^.it$  left,  bai^,  and 
its  borders  studded  with  elegant  villas,  surrounded  by- 
well  cultivated  fields  and  plantations.  To  the  north  is 
Dunbarton,  an  irregularly  built  litde  town,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Leven,  and  having  considerable  manufactures 
of  glass.  Near  this  stands  Dunbarton  castle,  well  known 
in  ancient  stoiy,  on  a  singularly  insulated  rock,  the  evi- 
dent effect  of  some  great  eruption  of  the  earth. .  To  the 
north  is  the  beautiful  river  I^even,  celebrated  in  verse  by 
Smollett,  who  was  born  on  its  pleasant  banks,  two  miles 
A  above  Dunbarton.  ., The .  banks  of  the  river  are,  elegantly 
adorned  with  villas  and  cultivated  fields,  and  there  is  more 
machinery  upon  it  than  any  river  in  the  west  of  Scotland. 
This  little  river  is  the  outlet  of  Loch  Lomond,,  a  lake 
singularly  beautiful  and  romantic,  on  the  east  side  of 
which  stands  Ben  Lomond,  one  of  the  highest  mountains 
in  Scotland ;  and  the  view  is  terminated  to  the  north  and 
west  by  mountains  innumerable,  the  tops  of  which  are  ge- 
nerally lost  in  the  clouds.  y 

From  the  summit  of  the  eminence  where  this  view  is 
seen,  the  road  proceeds  by  a  winding  descent  to.  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  keeps  close  along  shore  for  five  miles  to 
Port  Glasgow,  a  small  town  containing  about  3000  people. 
It  was  intended  to  be  a  port  to  Glasgow,  as  its  name  im- 
plies, and  has  a  little  shipping  trade ;  but  it  is  altogether 
eclipsed  by  Greenock,  which  possesses  superior  advanta- 
ges as-  a  port.  Three  miles  beyond  this  is  Greenock, 
and  on  reaching  it,  I  found  that  the  vessel  would  not  sail 
for  several  days.,.   .^> 

JpR££iroc&  is  an  irregularly  built  town,  containing 
about  18,000  inhabitants,  land  enjoys  a  very  large  portion 
of  the  commerce  of  the  west  of  Scotland,  which  employs 


,  *^^- 


SCOTLAND. 


11 


an  extensive  mercantile  capital.  Besides  th^f^d&sting  and 
Irish  trade,  of  which  it  has  a  large  share,  it  employs  nu- 
merous shipping  to  Canada,  to  the  We^t  Indies,  and  to 
the  continent  of  Europe ;  and  it  is  the  seat  of  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  American  trade  with  Scotland.  There  are 
three  or  four  vessels  in  the  New  York,  and  as  many  in  the 
Charleston  trade ;  besides  occasional  vessels  for  Boston/ 
Savannah,  Norfolk,  &c.  This  trade  is  wholly  carried  on 
in  American  vessels;  and  they  generally  perform  two 
voyages  in  the  year.  The  country  round  Greenock  has  a 
singular  and  even  romantic  appearance.  The  Clyde  is 
here  seven  miles  broad ;  but  a  few  miles  below,  it  makes 
a  sudden  bend  to  the  southward,  and  contracts  to  the 
breadth  of  twomilts.  On  the  opposite  side  is  Hellens- 
burg,  and  two  miles  below,  on  tins  ^de,  is  Gourock, 
which  are  celebrated  watering-places,  and  much  frequented 
by  the  citizens  of  Glasgow  in  the  summer  season;  and  on 
the  west  is  situated  Roseneath,  a  seat  of  the  duke  of  Ar- 
gyle.  It  was  lately  burnt  down,  but  is  now  rebuilt  in  an 
elegant  style,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Firth  and 
ks  shipping.  The  whole  country  found  rises  into  hig^ 
lands,  and  the  yiew  lis  terminated  to  the  north  and  west 
by  Idty  mountains.  '\  '  ■■>r 

From  tins  configuration  of  the  country,  bonnectsd  with, 
the  winds  which  blow  across  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  'we  may 
account  for  the  fi^uent  rains  with  Which  this  place,  and' 
indeed  the  greater  part  of  the  West  coast  of  Scodand,  is^ 
inundated.  The  wind  blows  Irom  the  sc^th-west  for  eight 
or  nine  months  in  the  year,  and  is  parj^eularly  prevalent  in 
the  winter  season.  In  its  course  fi^m  the  warm  latitudes, 
over  the  vast  expanse  of  water  in  the  Atlantic  Oca;u,  it 
is  highly  impregnated  -with  yi^ur;  and,  arriving  on  the 


ir 


TBAttLi  IH 


high  lands  on  the  wesi  of  Scotland^  it  ia  suddenly  conw 
densed,  and  falls  down  in  ton«nts  of  rain.    From'these 
circumstances^  the  winters  are  mild  ahd  rainy.    There  is- 
comparatively  little  snow,  and  it  never  lies  long ;    but  it 
has  been  frequently  observed  to  rain  for  forty  4wo  days 
successively.    I  cannot  better  illustrate  this,  ^lan  by  re- 
lating an  anecdote  of  an  English  traveller,  and  a  wsuter  at 
one  of  the  public  inns*    The  traveller  had  arrived  theii^ 
for  the  first  time.    On  the  morrow,  he  intended  to  trans^ 
act  his  business,  but  was  prevented  by  the  rain;   and  sd 
successively,  for  four  or  five  days.    At  last,  accosting  the^ 
waiter,  "  What;  my  fed^"  says  he,  "does  it  alwdyk  raitt 
here?"    «  Q  na,"  ^^ys  the  Waiier,  "  it  sothetimes  snAWS;'** 
>ft  No  material  occurrence  happened  during  my  stay  ftt* 
GHeenocfc,  and' I  went  on  board  the  Wairington,  on  We**'^ 
itesday,  the  12th  of  Mareh,    A  Mr.  BaBard,  of  Bost^f « 
was  my  fellow-p^idsetiger  ih  the  cal^ ;  and  a  Mr*  Millet^ 
and,  a  Mr.  M'Kiehai^  were  passengers  in  the  steerages 

We  set  sail  at  3  o'dock  in  the  nftemoon^  aceompmied 
by  the  Factor,  Caldwelly  of  New  Yofkt  but  the  l^^ind  wa»^ 
ligh^  and  we  made  litde  progreiisJ     Bdlii  tfa^ese  yes6di» 
Were  very  fast  sailers^  and^  esschetd  eonddf^sfeble  intei^ 
which  would  sjul  best.    Among  others^  I  had  a  SrtjaH  b0t- 
dbpendiikg  on  the.  sUcoess.  of  our  vbsset    By  dint  of  tow-  i 
ing^  \ve  had  gbt  a^  little  aliead  of  ttve  Factor,  and  weref^ 
tiraoght  to  and  boahied  by  die  crew  Oif  the  teiid^,  which 
was  at  the  Tail  c^  the  Bmk,  i^anui^aiseareh  ^  Bf^shf 
setoien,  at^  cohducteH  theth^ve^  with  all  the  inisoleiiefr 
of-  sff^itrary  po^t^  r  but  att  W;^  :^)Und  c€»Te<it',  >£Md  we 
wtere  Sttfeed  to  di^)aim        ^^  ^^i  r 

Ih  th6  mean  Mme/  a  sm^  breeze  havlrfg  sfirung  up, 
th€'  Fajctpf^  feeling  H  fimytestAe'tip^iti^us  vcvy  fast,  titelt 


>'■• 


teotLAKtt* 


li 


Jy  con- 
rn'these 
rhere  is 

but  it 
ivo  dayis 
I  by  re- 
ivaiter  at 
ed  thei* 
to  trans^ 

and  sb 
iting  the 
fdffi  rain 

^  stay  ifii 

Ml  Wed-* 

Bost?r4ii 

n  mm 

ragei 
mpanied 
iriiid  was' 
^  yefifiek^ 
*  int£i^iM 

maltbei 

of  tow- 
id  ivertf 
V  which 

tsotehce 
a»d  we* 

ing  up, 


the  wind  dut  of  our  sails,  and  fairly  pataed  us,  to  the. 
great  joy  of  the  one  ship^s  company>  and  the  mortification 
of  the  c^r.  We  felt  the  breeze  in  our  turn,  and  kept 
right  astern  of  the  Factor  fifteen  miles,  to  the-Cumbraes, 
where  she  hove  to,  to  discharge  the  pilot,  and  we  passed 
her ;  and  she  again  passed  us,  while  we  were  discharging 
our8» 

Five  miles  below  Greenock  is  the  Ctough  light-house, 
where  the  river  contracts)  and  makes  the  sudden  bend  to 
the  south  before  noticed ;  a  little  beyond  which  it  spreads 
out  into  a  spacious  firtii,  and  embosoms  several  islands, 
the  chief  of  which  ttte  Arran^  Bute,  and  the  Cumbraes* 
It  is  bounded  with  high  lands  on  both  sides,  and  the  is^ds 
are  generally  rugged  and  Idly.  Aitan,  in  particular,  rises 
into  very  high  mountains.  The  channel  is  very  safe,  aad 
is  navigable,  at  aH  seasons,  for  vessels  of  any  burden. 

It  was  dark  when  we  discharged  the  pilot,  and  I  retired 
to  rest  When  J[  rose  in  die  morning,  I  found  we  had 
passed  the  island  of  Arran,  and  were  abreast  of  that  singu- 
larly insulated  rock,  in  the  middle  of  the  channel,  cele- 
brated in  song  by  the  fiivoimte  Scottish  baxdyBums-^ 


yi 


■!i> 


"  Meg  was  deaf  as  jiiUa  Craig.** 


Htfe  w^  hii  a  'Very  e)tten«ive  view  of  the  Scottish  and 
Iri^  coasts.    The  Factor  was  a  few  miles  ahead. 

The  WHid  continued  light  and  variable,  so  that  we  did 
not  get  out  of  due  channel  until  the  afternoon,  when  we 
passed  the  MuH  <^  Gantyre^  soon  after  which  we  passed 
Stora  inland;  and  on  the  morning  off  die  14th,  we  found 
ourselves  in  the  Adantic  Ocean,  and  had  a  most  extensive 
view  of  the  notth^wtest  coast  of  Ireland,  and  the  Western 
SetMlandi    In  the  afternoon,  we  were  dt>reast  of 


.  <i--^ 


p: 


I* 


% 


'■% 


u 


TBAVEL8   OK 


fl: 


k 


:# 


^1 


Tory  Island,  from  whence  we  took  our  departure,  and, 
bestowing  my  benediction  on  the  British  islands,  I  com- 
mitted myself  to  the  waters  of  the  Atlanta,  hoping  for  a 
speedy  and-pleascmt  passage,  and  a  safe  arrival  on  Colum- 
bia's shore. 

i^i/tThe  wind  continued  very  variable,  ajccompanied  with 
cold,  stormy  weather,  with  rain,,  hail,  and  snow,  occa^on- 

I  ally,  until  the  16th,  when  it  got  more  settled.  During  all 
this  time,  we  had  Jkept  sight  of  the  Factorj  but  she  was 
genially  ahead.  We  now  took  a  fair,  strong  breeze  from 
the  eastward,  at  the  commencem^t  of  which  the  Factor 

jvas  ahead  fully  twelve  miles^  and  the  ships  had  now  a 
good  opportunity  J^  trying  their  full  speed.  We  soon 
found  that  we  gained  upon  the  Factor  very  fast,  and  finally 
passed  her  on  the  morning  of  th^  I7th,  to  the  great  mor- 
tification of  her  captain,  who  tried  her  on  all  tadLS,  but 

.without  success ;  and  he  finally,  shaped  his  course  more 
to  the  northw^d,  jnd  we  Ig^t  sight  d*  die  vessel  durii^ 

the  day.     '.     ^^•^♦.-'v,^iJtj;--.«vy.;'^-)M;:   /.■^.^••^■■'    ■■•-^-.f  .;■:->*«?: 

,  This  breeze  CQntmued,  wafting  us  akoig  at  the  rate  of 
nine  or  .ten  miles  anJiour,  unti)  the  aftemcion  of  the  2Qth, 
when  we  were  to  the  westward  of  the  Western  Iskinds, 
and  congratulating  ourselves  on  the  prospect  of  a  speedy 
p^ssagc-^Qut,  lo  la  suddqi  reverse  took  piaffe*  The 
wind,  wliuch  was  blowing  froijfi-the  southrcast,  incrdased 
4  into  a  most  furious;  gsile,  a^d  the  slup  was  brought  frT}m 
top-gakl)aQt, and  studding  s^i  to  foresail  and  dose-reefed 
main  top-sail.  The  gale  infproised,  the  ship  laboured  hard, 
and  shipped  a  gre;Gt  many  2;eavy  seas ;  but  at  1  o'clock, 
on  the  morning  of  $he  ^Ist,  it  lulled  into  a  perfect  calm. 
It  was  now  that  we  felt  the  most  disagreeable  effects  of 
the  gale;   for  the  sea  had  risen  mountains  high,  and  \the 


^ 


'ffl 

VI 

'9 

t< 

.'9 

e 

'f^^^^l 

tl 

H 

THE   ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


it 


ire,  and, 
;,  I  com- 
ing for  a 
[  Colum- 

lied  with 
occasion- 
>uring  all 
she  was 
;eze  from 
he  Factor 
id  how  a 
We  soon 
md  finally 
;reat  mor- 
acks,  but 
ursemore 
el  during 


h'  -{If' 


ship,  having  no  sail  to  steady  her,  partook  of  the  motion 
of  every  wave,  and  rolled  so  sharp,  that  she  threatened  to 
toss  her  masts  overboard.  This  state  of  things  was,  how- 
ever, of  short  duration.  At  2  o'clock,  the  wind  shifted  to 
the  north-west,  blowing  most  furiously,  till  about  sunrise^ 
when  it  became  a  littie  more  moderate,  and  we  made  sail; 
although  the  cross  tumbling  sea,  occasioned  by  the  con- 
trary gales,  made  our  sailing  intolerably  uneasy. 

We  had  now  a  series  of  head  winds,  and  disagreeable 
weather,  whidi  will  be  best  described  by  giving  an  extract 
from  my  sea  journal. 

March  32.  First  part,  strong  gales  and  clear  weather. 
Middle  and  latter  part,  strong  gales,  with  rain  and  Kail,  a 
very  heavy  sea,  and  the  ship  labouring  hard.       «^    ' 

•  23.  Strong  gales  and  tiiick  weather  all  tiiese  twenty-foinr 
hours,  a  very  heavy  sea,  and  the  ship  labouring  hard.  At' 
9  o'clock  in  the  evening,  the  ship  was  struck  with  a  very 
heavy  sea,  which  carried  a^vay  the  bulwarics,  and  split  the 
starboard  plank  sheer  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  main 
deck,  washed  the  cambouse-house  out  of  its  place,  and 
nearly  carried  the  cabin-boy  overboard.  At  12  o'clock  at 
night,  shipped  anotlier  very  heavy  sea. 

24.  Commences  with  strong  gales  and  a  heavy  sea. 
Middle  part  more  moderate,  but  a  heavy  sea,  and  the  ship 
labouring  hard.  Latter  part  moderate,  and  all  hands  em- 
ployed in  repairing  the  damages  of  the  gale, 

25.  First  part,  fresh  breezes  and  clear.  Middle,  tre- 
mendous squalls.  Latter  part,  Hght  airs,  inclining  to  a 
calm. 

26.  First  part,  light  winds.  Middle  and  latter  part, 
fresh  breezes,  and  cloudy. 


M 


■m. 


16 


TRATBL8  ON 


27.  First  part,  fresh  breezes,  and  thick  hazy  weather. 
Middle  part,  the  breeze  increased  to  a  most  tremendous 
^e,  and  at  11  o'clock  at  night,  the  ship  was  struck  with 
such  a  sea,  as  made  her  quiver  to  her  centre.  My  fellow- 
passenger  was  thrown  out  of  his  birth  with  the  violence  of 
the  shock,  and  the  cabin  was  nearly  filled  with  water. 
:  There  was  no  making  sail  in  this  weather,  and  the  ship 
was  hove  to.  Latter  part,  very  strong  gales,  with  furious 
squalls,  a  very  heavy  sea  running,  and  the  ship  leaking 
much  in  her  upper  works. 

This,  and  those  of  the  21st  and  23d,  were  the  only  se- 
iVere  gales  we  encountered,  but  we  had  a  series  of  head 
» winds,  gales,  and  squalls,  with  occasional  showers  of  rain, 
hail,  ami  snow,  till  fhe  22d  of  April,  when  I  find  the  fol- 
lowing remarks  in  my  Journal :  **  Being  now  out  forty<^onc 
days,  and  little  more  than  two-thirds  of  the  passage,  the 
"Wind  right  against  us,  and  no  appearance  of  shifting,  we 
apprehend  a  long  passage,  and  the  ship's  company  are  put 
on  short  allo\vance  of  water.   I  am  much  afiraid  oiu*  goods 
will  be  too  late  for  the  Savannah  market." 

The  headwinds  continued,  but  we  had  more  moderate 

'Weather,  though  occasional  gales,  till  the  26th,  when  we 

'Spoke  a  sloop  out  two  days  fh»n  Bermuda.    Being  now 

near  diese  Utile  islands,  I  may  step  out  of  my  course  to 

describe  them,  though  I  did  not  see  them. 

Theyare  four  in  number,  and  were  discovered  by  John 
Bermudas,  a  Spaniard,  in  1527;  but  the  Spaniards  ne- 
glecting them,  they  weiie  again  discovered  by  Sir  Geoi^ 
•  Sommers,  who  was  shipwrecked  on  them  in.  1609.  Of 
l^tese  islands,  the  chief  is  St.  George,  having  a  dapital  of 
the  same  name,  consisting  of  about  500  houses,  built  of 
sof^  free^stone.    St«  George  contains  about  3000  inhabi- 


THE   ATLAHTIC  OCEAH. 


»7 


weather. 

1 

mendous 

' 

Lick  with 

':' 

Y  fellow- 

i 

olence  of 

h  water. 

'■ 

the  slup 

^ 

K  furious 

)  leaking 

;  only  se- 

4 

s  of  head 

\ 

■8  (^  rain, 

5 

dthefoi- 

forty»one 

isage, 


the 


fdng,  we 
ly  are  put 
iiir  goods 

moderate 
when  we 
iing  now 
course  to 

by  John 
rds  ne- 
Geoi^ 

i09.    Of 

ipitsdof 

buflt  of 

inhabi- 


iants,  and  the  whole  islands  perhaps  about  9000,  of  whoiti 
nearly  two-thirds  are  slaves.  The  people  are  chiefly  occu- 
pied in  building  small  craft,  with  which  they  trade  .to  Ca- 
nada and  the  West  Indies;  and  they  are  said  to  be  veiy 
•Xpert  at  the  business  of  privateering.  The  civil  govern- 
ment is  vested  in  a  governor,  council,  and  general  assen»- 
bly.  The  religion  is  that  of  the  ohurch  of  England,  and 
a  native  of  Perth,  in  ScotUlid,  is  minister. 

The  head  winds  sdll  continued,  but  the  weather  was 
moderate ;  and  after  crossing  the  gulph  stream,  we  made 
the  land  on  the  7th  of  May,  supposed  to  be  cape  Look- 
out, on  the  coast  of  North  Carolina.  But  the  head  winds 
still  continued,  and  we  were  (to  use  a  sea  phrase)  januned 
in  betwixt  the  gulph  stream  and  the  coast,  so  that  we  could 
make  no  progress  whatever  till  the  10th,  when,  to  our  great 
joy,  we  got  a  fair  wind,  which  wafted  us  briskly  along,  and 
we  made  Tybee  Light-house  early  on  the  morning  of  the 
12th  of  May,  after  a  turbulent,  disagreeable  passage  of  61 
days. 

The  breeze  continuing  favourable,  we  soon  approached 
the  bar,  where,  having  got  a  pilot,  we  waited  half  an  houe 
for  the  tide,  and  then  made  sail  up  Savannah  river;  which 
I  found  a  perfect  contrast  to  the  Clyde,  the  banks  being 
tow  and  muddy,  and  the  country  round  a  perfect  level. 
In  our  passage  up  we  saw  a  good  many  fishes  and  alliga- 
tors ;  which  last  are  fiightful-looking  animals,  but  they  are 
by  no  means  so  dangerous  as  generally  represented.  At 
Q  o'clodL  we  passed  a  bend  in  the  river  called  Four  Mile 
Point,  and  at  3  came  to  anchor  at  Five  Fathom  Hole; 
where  having  dined  on  board,  for  the  last  time,  we  set  out 
in  the  small  boat  for  Savannah,  which  we  i:eached  at  5 
o'clock. 


vox.   J. 


Ifi 


♦? 


TRATBLt  OK 


CHAPTER  n. 


'?srT||Cl:!4J'»^a(Wlf 


t* 


^1 


General  Remarks. 

1  HE  most  material  circumstances  which  happened  on 
board,  are  recorded  in  the  foregoing  chapter;  but  the  pas- 
sage may  admit  of  the  following  general  remarks. 

The  Warrington  was  a  good  stout  vessel,  of  318  tbns 
burden,  remarkably  handsome  and  well  found,  aiid  a  veiy 
fast  sailer:  but  her  cargo  was  light,  and  all  at  the  bottom, 
so  that  she  was  not  well  trimmed  for  sea;  and  her  motion 
Vi'as  shaip,  and  intolerably  uneasy. 
''  Captain  Hinkley,  the  commander,  was  bred  a  snlor  on 
board  of  this  same  vessel,  and  raised  himself  by  his  own 
merit  to  the  rank  he  now  holds.  His  scientific  knowledge 
did  not  seem  to  be  great,  but  he  was  an  excellent  seaman^ 
and  very  careful  in  die  management  of  the  vesid. 
^'  He  was  provided  with-  an  excellent  mate,'  in  Mr.  Ar- 
nold; who  to  a  thorough  knowledge  as  a  seaman,  joined  a 
COIitect  knowledge  of  the  theory  and  practice  of  navigation, 
alid  sciences  connected  widi  it ;  he  wns  moreover  a  very 
agreeable,  intelligent  man,  and  I  received  much  information 
l^6m  his  remarks. 

Mr.  Ballard,  my  fellow  passenger,  was  an  int'^fiigent, 
ffOod-natuined  young  man.  With  the  steerage  passengeb 
I  had  of  course  less  connection,  butHhty  Were  agteeabtei 
anci  the  sailoi^  behaved  themselves  with  propriety  during 
the  passage.  »^  , 


TRB  ATLAimC  OCEAN 


19 


The  motion  of  the  vessel  was  too  great  to  permit  us  to 
amuse  ourselves  at  any  garnet  and  I  devoted  my  time 
pretty  closely  to  the  study  of  navigation,  geography,  astro, 
nomy,  and  chart  drawing;  in  which  I  flattered  myself  that 
I  made  tolerable  proficiency.  The  study  of  chemistry 
took  up  part  of  my  time,  and  so  also  did  general  literature 
and  music.  To  die  principles  of  merchandize  in  general, 
and  the  trade  between  Glasgow  and  Savannah  in  particular, 
I  paid  much  attention,  and  drew  up  an  essay  on  the  ship- 
ping trade  between  the  two  places,  and  the  best  method  of 
prosecuting  it;  but  circumstances  have  since  occurred 
which  render  it  of  little  importance  to  the  general  reader, 
and  I  omit  it,  and  substitute  in  its  place  the  following  re* 
fictions  on  the  prevailing  winds  and  currents,  with  other 
phenomena,  in  die  Atlantic ;  and  an  inquiry  as  to  the  beat 
courses  across  that  ocean  at  diiferent  seasons  of  the  year. 

I.    or  THE  WINDS  ON  THB  ATLANTIC. 

The  trade  wind  prevails  between  the  tropics,  that  is,  from 
2^°  S.  to  23J''  N.  latitude,  being  47  degrees  in  breadth; 
and  is  a  constant  motion  of  the  air  fh)m  east  to  west, 
having  a  little  variation  near  the  extremes,  that  is,  towards 
the  southern  tropic  it  inclines  to  the  south-east,  and  to- 
wards the  nordiem  trc^ic  it  indihes  to  the  north-ea§t. 
The  cause  of  this  current  of  air  is  supposed  to  be  the  ac- 
tion of  the  sun,  which  is  dways  verdcsd  at  one  pokit  or 
another  between  the  tn^cs;  combined  with  the  diurnal 
motion  of  the  earthy  which  has  a 'greater  velocity  here  than 
at  any  other  point,  llie  adtion  of  a  i^rticrf  sun  rarefies 
and  expands  thew, inconsequence  of  which  it  rises;  and 


% 


»     « 


4 


ao 


TRAVBLS   ON 


the  motion  of  the  earth  sweeping  £rom  under  it  at  the  rate 
of  more  than  1000  miles  an  hour  to  tlie  eastward,  causes 
a  constant  current  of  air  to  the  westward.^  The  velocity  of 
thb  current  is  various;  but  when  I  saUed  in  it,  in  my 
voyage  to  the  West  Indies,  it  was  very  strong,  and  r^u- 
lar^  carrying  a  heavy  sailing  vessel  at  the  rate  of  8  miles 
an  hour,  and  it  never  shifted  a  point  irom  due  eaist 

A  litde  attention  to  the  nature  of  this  wind  may  be  use- 
ful,^ as  it  illustrates  the  theory  of  the  variable  winds,  and 
bears  with  considerable  ibrce  upon  the  theoiy  of  the  cli- 
mate of  the  United  States^  r 

From  the  tr(4)ic  of  Cancer,  in  23^%  to  about  28^  nordi 
latitude,  the  wind  generally  blows'  from  the  north-east,  and 
is  a  branch  of  )the  trade  wind,  partriking  ctf  its  natuine. 
Between  the  latitudes  of  28^  and  32°  north,  the  winds  are 
very  irregular;  and  that  being  the  region  between  the  trade 
and  variable  winds,  it  is  subject  to  frequent  calms.  Be? 
tween  the  latitudes  of  28°  and  50°  north,  westerly  winds  are 
by  far  the  mo^t  previ^ent,  particularly  in  the  winter  and 
spring,  during  which  they  frequently  rise  to  furious  gales 
and  squalls,  beyond  50°  north,  I  had  not  occasion  to  re? 
mark,  but  I  believe  ^y  are  most  prevalent  from  the  north? 


Ih    OF  THE  Glri«PH  STREAM. 


/ 


This  stream  is  a  oonsequence  arising  from'  the  trade 
winds,  By  an  inspep^on  of  th^  chart  of  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  it  .will  b^  seen,  tha]t  the  vast  quantity  of  w^ter  of 
\vhich  that  ore^  is  made  up>  must  be  affected  by  a  con- 
stant <;:urr^t  of  air  swe^ing  along  it  fin  one  di^ectioij* 


0 

0 


t  the  rate 
d,  causes 
velocity  t)f 
t,  in  my 
ind  regu- 
if  8  miles 

list.  ■  .-i  ■■':'"h: 

lybeuse- 
rinds,  and 
>f  the  cli- 

28^noi11i 
i-east,and 
its  natui;e. 
winds  are 
I  the  trade 
ims.  Ber 
wdndsare 
^ter  and 
ous  gales 
ion  tore? 
northr 


|the  trade 

Atlamic 

water  of 

a  con- 

;don. 

i 


THE  ATLAKTIC.  OCEAN.  ^ 

This  must  necessarily  give  a  small  degree  of  modon  to 
the  water,  which  being  slanted  off  by  the  direction  of  the 
coast  of  South  America,  has,  towards  the  southern  extre- 
mity, a  nordi-west  motion,  and  proceeding  through  the 
•West  Tndia  islands,  raises  the  waters  in  the  gulph  of  Mex- 
ico bc^^ji.^  the  level  of  the  Atlantic  or  Pacific  Oceans. 
The  current  being  stopt  by  the  isthmus  of  Darien,  winds 
along  the  northern  coast  of  the  gulph  of  Mexico,  in  search 
of  a  level,  and  finds  an  outlet  through  the  gulph  of  Flo« 
rida,  between  the  island  of  Cuba  and  the  south  point  of 
£ast  Florida.    From  thence  it  proceeds  in  a  nordi-east 
direction,  sweeping  the  American  coast,  at  the  distance  of 
60  or  70  miles  from  the  land,  until  it  reaches  cape  Hatte- 
ras,  where  it  approaches  within  20  or  30  miles  of  the  coast ; 
here  it  tends  more  to  the  eastward,  until  it  reaches  the  coast . 
of  Nova  Scotia,  when  it  takes  a  course  nearly  due  east.  JA 
continues  this  course  until  it  reaches  the  Great  Bank  of 
Newfoundland,  where  it  seems  to  be  materially  affectedi 
and  diverging  to  a  greater  breadth,  is  finally  lost  towards 
the  Azores  and  Madeira  islands. 

The  breadth  .of  this  stream,  in  the  gulph  of  Florida^ 
is  about  30  or  40  miles.  It  encreases  as  it  proceeds  to 
the  north-east:  opposite  cs^  Hatteras  it  is  about  150  miles ; 
off  the  coast  of  Nova  Scoda  it  is  about  4  degrees;  and  at 
the  Bank  of  Ne^vfoundland  it  is  about  5  degrees;  fit)m 
thence -diverging  to  6  or  7. 

The  velocity  of  the  current  is,  in  the  gulph  of  Florida, 
about  five  or  six  miles  an  hour,  but  it  decreases  as  it  pro- 
ceeds to  the  north-east.  Opposite  cape  Hatteras  it  is  about 
two  miles;  off  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia  it  is  about  one  and 
a  half;  and  at  the  banks  of  Newfoundland  it  is  about 
one  mile. 


i-n-i 


TRATKLS  0»    «;4*^ 


4>  The  peobabiiity  is>  that  ks  course  ia  directed  to  die  east- 
ward by  die  iniiiienGe  of  die  rivers  issuing  from  die  coast 
of  America,  particulaiiy  the  great  river  St.  Lawrence^  op- 
posite to  which  it  seems  to  make  the  greatest  bend;  and 
it  is  also  probable  that  the  confluence  of  dieae  waters  and 
another  stream  proceeding  fromDavb'  Straits,  has  c6nitri- 
buted  to  raise  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 

The  temperature  Of  this  stream  is  different  from  that  of 
the  surrounding  ocean,  and  partakes  of  that  of  the  waters 
in  the  gulph  of  Mexico,  being  generally  10  or  12  degrees 
warmer  than  the  other  parts  of  the  ocean.  /  Hence  it  affects 
the  temperature  of  the  air  above  i^  which  is  frequendy 
subject,  particidarly  m  the  spring,  to  calms,  fogs,  whirl- 
winds, water  spouts,  and  storms  of  thunder  and  hg^itning. 
The  heavy  fogs  which  hover  over  the  Banks  of  Newfound- 
land, seem  to  arise  from  this  warm  fluid,  mixing  with  die 
icold  atmosphere  generated  by  the  ^ream  from  Davi»' 
Straits.  -■vm.'^'c 

The  next  phenomena  which  I  diall  notice,  as  bearing 
on  this  subject,  is,  that  islands  of  ice,  sometimes  numerous 
and  of  great  extent,  are  carried  by  the  stream  from  Davis* 
Straits,  in  the  spring  season;  and  before  they  are  dissolved 
by  the  warmth  of  the  Adandc,  they  sometimes  extend  as  iu* 
south  as  the  latitude  of  45°  or  40°,  and  as  far  east  as  die 
longitude  of  48°  or  50^.  Vessels  sailing  to  and  from  Ame- 
rica  have  been  frequendy  entangled  amongst  them)  and 
some  have  been  totallv  lost. 

A  correct  knowledge  of  these  circumstances  is  of  con- 
sidemble  importance  to  our  inquiry,  and  the  foUowkig 
practical  deductions  may  be  of  service  to  those  interested 
in  the  result. 


i*. 


THE  ATLAKTIC  OCEAN. 


23 


om  that  of 
the  watars 
12  degrees 
ceitalfects 
frequently 
Dgs,  whirl- 
hghtning. 
Newfound' 
!g  with  the 

as  bearing 
numerous 
)m  Davis' 
>  diasotved 
tend  as  iu* 
sastas  the 
omAme- 
hem,  and 


'  d 


'm 


1st.  Ships  bound  ton  Britain  to  the  West  Indies  should 
shape  their  course  fitim  die  channel  to  St.  Mary's,  one  of 
the  Azores;  fixim  thence  to  where  die  longitude  of  40^  in- 
tersects the  fattitude  of  23i° ;  and  from  thence  run  down  the 
trades  kr  the  intended  port,  ^ps  bound  from  Europe 
to  the  giriph  of  Mexico,  should  keep  the  same  course.  The 
return  from  the  West  Indies  and  Mexico  to  Europe  is  dif- 
ferent according  to  situation,  as  a  few  degrees  of  longitude 
make  an  important  variation.  Generally  speaking,  it  is  best 
for  vessds  to  bear  to  the  nordiward  until  they  xget  into  the 
variable  winds,  and  then  keep  along  with  them  in  the  near- 
est way  to  their  intended  port. 

2d.  Vessels  bound  to  the  southward  of  the  capes  of 
I  Virginia  in  the  United  States,  should,  in  the  spring,  shape 
their  course  for  St.  Mary's  as  aforesaid;  fit)m  thence  to 
about  where  the  longitude  of  35°  intersects  the  latitude  of 
28°,  where  they  will,  at  that  season,  most  likely  meet  with 
an  easterly  wind,  failing  which  they  are  sure  to  fall  in  with 
it  a  few  degrees  farther  south;  run  down  with  it  due  west 
till  they  arrive  on  the  confines  of  the  gulph  stream;  and 
then  bear  away  for  the  intended  port.  By  taking  this 
southern  course,  at  this  season,  they  will  avoid,  several 
difficulties.  1st.  The  danger  of  falling  in  with  islands  of 
ice.  2dly.  The  necessity  of  passing  the  gulph  stream 
where  it  is  four  or  five  degrees  broad,  and  at  that  season 
subject  to  much  bad  weather.  And  3dly.  The  chance  of 
meeting  with  a  series  of  head  winds.  In  the  autunm  there 
is  no  ice  to  be  dreaded,  the  weather  is  more  mild,  and  th^ 
westerly  winds  less  prevalent,  while  the  latitudes  between 
28°  and  32°  are  much  subjected  to  calms,  so  that  it  isi  best, 
upon  the  whole,  to  nm  for  the  intended  port. 


fli  TRAVMiSIN       Hi 

3d.  Ships  bound  to  the  northward  of  the  capes  of  Virginia 
should  shape  their  course  direct  for  the  intended  port 
They  have  n6  occasion  to  cross  the  gulph  stream,  and  as 
to  the  ice,  it  may  be  prudent  to  keep  a  little  to  the  south- 
ivard,  as  they  approach  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 

4th.  Vessels  bound  to  Europe  Grom.  any  port  of  Ame- 
rica, cannot  do  better  than  run  direct  for  the  intended 
port. 


-jwr- 


GBOHGIA. 


•l-*'W 


GHAFTEIt  WL 


Savannah, 

The  firsj  objects  that  attracted  my  attention  on  my  ar- 
rival in  Savannah,  was  the  salloW  appearance  of  the  inha* 
bitants,  and  the  extreme  \varmth  of  the  weather;  the  ther- 
mometer being  at  91®.    I  naturally  concluded,  that  as  the 
[season  advanced,  the  heat  would  increase,  and  would  soon 
)e  almost  intolerable.    This  opinion  was  strengthened  by 
some  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  in  the  habit  of  alarming 
Pstrangers  concerning  the  climate;  but  I^vas  afterwards  in- 
[formed,  by  a  judicious  medical  gentleman,  that  there  would 
be  few  days  warmer  than  this,  and  that  the  weather  would 
be,  upon  the  whole,  much  cooler.    This  opinion  I  found 
to  be  correct,  for  in  a  few  days  the  thermometer  fell  beloW 
70°,  and  it  seldom  rose  above  85°  while  I  continued  in 
Savannah. 

The  next  circumstance  that  made  a  forcible  impression 
upon  me  was  the  great  difference  between  this  place,  and 
any  other  I  had  ever  seen  before.  There  was  no  distant 
view — ^no  extemd  object  to  amuse  the  fancy— the  whole 
cduBtry  round,  north,  south,  east,  and  west,  >vas  one 
dull  scene,  which  excited  no  interest;  and  the  music  of 
the  birds  of  heaven  was  exchanged  for  the  dull  croaking 
of  the  bull-frog,  and  the  shrill  treble  pipe  of  the  musque- 
toe.  Nevertheless,  I  soon  got  familiarized  to  the  place, 
and  even  fond  of  it.    My  business,  which  %vas  well  organ- 

VOL.    I.  B 


n 


TKAVBLft  IN 


ized,  was  succeeding  to  my  wish,  and  the  inhabitants,  whom 
I  found  very  obliging,  became  every  day  m-^re  amiable  in 
my  eyes. 

Savannah  is  situated  in  32°  3'  north  latitude,  on  a 
high  sandy  bank,  or  ;bl|iff>  on  the;scmt^  side  of  the  Savan- 
nah river,  17  miles  from  the  sea.  The  city  is  Imd  out  on 
an  elegant  plan,  and  is  about  a  mile  in  lengdi  from  east  to 
west,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  It  con- 
sists of  30  streets,  16  squares,  and  6  lanes,  containing  about 
1000  houses,  and  5500  inhabitants;  of  whom  about  2500 
are  slaves.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  jail, 
academy,  bank-office,  and  five  jdaces  for  public  worship. 
There  has  lately  been  built  a  very  handsome  exchange, 
with  a  spire  and  observatory',  from  whence  vessels  maybe 
seen  out  at  sea:  ,10  or  12  miles.  .  The  situatioix  of  Savan- 
nah is  favourable,  both  for  health  and  commerce.  The 
bluiF  on  which,  it  is  built  is  fipm  50  to  70  feet  high,  so 
that  there  is  a  fine  descent  tO;  the  river. ,  This  bluff  is  a 
bed  of,  very  fine  sand ;  and  by  digging  wells  about  60 
or  70  feet  deep,  a  supply  of  CKcellent  water  is  procured, 
probably  a  filtration  firom  the  river.  The  streets-  are  broad 
and  airy,  and  the  city,  being  only  17  miles  from  the  sea, 
frequeiitly  enjoys  a  Seabreeze,  which  is  cool  and  refi*eshing 
in  the  summer  season.  ; 

The  trade  of  the. city  is  cionsidcrable,  and  employs  13 
regular  ships  to  Britjain;  15  packet  brigs  and  schooners  to 
New  York;  two  or  three  to  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, and 
Boston;  two  or  three  sloops  to  Charleston;  and  four  or 
five  vessels  to  the  West  Indies.  Besides  these,  there  are 
a  number  of  vessels  that  (?ome  fix)m  the  nortli\vard  an- 
nually,  to  take  fiieight  for  Britain,  and  the  continent  of 
Europe.     •  .  ■    ^ 


■  im 


|bal 
^cot 


■■i>i 


are 


GEORGIA.  IT 


27 


The  country  in  the  vkinity  contributes  but  little  to  the 

supply  of  the  city.    To  the  south  it  is  sandy  dnd  barnen 

for  a  considerable  distance.    To'  the  north,  eiist,  and  west^ 

considerable  crops  of  rice  are  raised  i  but  it  is  thbught  that 

the  rice  fields  contribute  to  make  the  city  unhealthy.^  Co(k 

ton  and  rice  are  the  staple  comtnodities  of  the  stiite;;  jaitidi 

Savannah  being  the  only  shipping  port  in  itj'is^iof.coursQC^ 

[the  general  mart  for  the  displosoliof  lA]ese^>artsele6.    iThie>. 

[sea^isUnd  cottoii  of  this  slate,  is  lecktoed  suiperior  toanyv 

[in  America.     The  principal  islands  iviietie  it  is!raised  arb 

1st.  Symons  and  Cumberland;  ibutk  as  planted|Siid  comes 

ito  maturity,  in  all  the  other  islands  along  the.jcopiSt^^om: 

[Charleston  south^vard,  as  rWell  as  on;  mother  .places  of  the 

iboard,  and  is  thence  called  ^a^oarJoo^tori,  or^'  i^:aomfi 
)f  my  Scotsiit-iends  would  hsL\^itf:f^ smlri^oHww^yr'iJijh^ 
exports  from  the  state  amount  to  above  two  millions  of 
^dollars  annually;  besides  what  is  carried  coastwise,  which 
[is  not  entered  at  the  custom-house,  and  which  may  \pro4 
bably  amount  to  as  much  more.  The  great  value  is  in 
;  cotton,  and  the  whole  centres  in  Savannali.  The  imports 
are  from  Europe,  the  West  Indies,  and  the  northern  states, 
iuid  consist  of  dry  goods,  hardware,  groceries,  flour,  &c. ; 
imd  it  is  presumed  they  are  neai'ly  equal  in  value  to  the 
[exports.  Supposing  the  aggregate  to  be  8,000,000  dol- 
lars, and  allow  7  per  cent,  commission  to  the  Savannali 
merchants,  the  result  will  be  560,000  dollars,  as  the  an*i,. 
nual  income  of  Savannah,  which  may  perliaps  be  preife*^  , 
near  the  truth.  ^ 

Savannah  river  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  America. 
Its  head  waters  consist  of  two  small  rivers  which  rise  near 
the  njountains,  and  form  a  junction  about  220  miles  from 
the  sea ;  from  thenre  it  runs  a  south-east  course,  and  falls 


2ft 


fTRAVBLS  m 


into  the  bccan  IT^miles  below  Savannah.  It  receives  se- 
veral small  streams  in  its  progress,  and  is  the  boundary 
line  between  Georgia  and  South  Carolina,  during  its  whole 
course.  It  is  navigable  for  ships  of  any  burden  to  within 
three  miles  of  Savannah;  for  ships  of  250  tons  to  Savan- 
nah; and  for  boats  of  100  feet  keel  to  Augusta.  Above 
Augusta,  are  the  Rapids,  and,  after  passing  them,  the  river 
can  be  navigated  80  miles  higher,  in  small  boats,  to  the 
junction  of  1^  head  waters.  It  may  be  remarked,  that 
through  the  medium  of  this  river  a  considerable  part  of 
the  produc^JBtf  .South  Carolina  is  carried  to  the  Savannah 

-^^Rlfe  liver  abounds  with  fish,  and  the  water  is  soft  and 
good;  but  die  country  on  its  banks  is  by  no  means 
healthy,  especially  in  the  lower  part  of  the  state. 


ihkl  j!^  'l:)iiR*\-»;H(;r>ffu>if  i/. 


'•-|.'^.iL,. 


c-.4*»^03; 


.1. 


^;t,  m^ 


GEOBOU..  r 


29 


eives  sc- 
x)undary 
its  whole 
to  within. 
;o  Savan- 
Above 
,  the  river 
ts,  to  the 
ked,  that 
le  port  oi* 
Savannah 
1 1<  . .   . » 
s  soft  .and 
lo  means 


.w.4.~      1, 


.tU 


w 


CHAPTER  IV. 

-,.       .  ......  ,.  .......  M.S.  ,Ui.  -.4-    .    ■ 

xl  AVING  aitanged  my  afllairs  in  Savannah,  and  confi- 
ded  the  management  of  the  business  to  a  trusty  assistant, 
I  resolved,  in  pursuance  of  my  original  plan,  to  make  a 
tour  to  the  upper  country,  for  the  purpose  oi*  acc^oiring 
information,  and  forming  connexiohs.  The  season  was 
£u*  advanced  for  travelling,  in  that  country,  but  I  trusted 
to  a  good  constitution  and  temperate  habits ;  and  finding 
a  gentleman  about  to  go  to- Augusta,  I  resolved  to  avail 
myself  of  his  company.  I  accordingly  purchased  a  horse, 
for  which  I  paid  118  dollars,  saddle  and  bridle  includ^^ 
and,  having  every  thing  prepared,  we  set  out  at  mid-day, 
on  Friday,  June  27th.  We  took  the  Augusta  road,  and 
at  two  miles  from  Savannah,  we  passed  the  branch  which 
leads  to  Louisville.  A  litde  beyond  this  there  is  a  fine 
spring  of  pure  water,  much  fi^quented  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Savannah  in  ths  summer  season.  Seven  miles  from 
Savannah  we  met  two  travellers,  who  informed  us  that 
the  cre&ks^  were  all  swelled  to  a  great  height,  and  the 
bridges  broken  down,  so  that  we  could  not  possibly 
get  along.  The  road  was,  indeed,  far  fh)m  inviting. 
There  had  been  a  long  series  of  rainy  weather,  and  the 
afternoon  was  very  sultry;  but  we  resolved  to  go  through, 

*  This  term  is,  in  the  United  Stttesj  applied  to  small  rivers  or 
rivulets. 


30 


travbls  in 


if  possible,  aiid  uccordingly  kept  on  our  course.  Two 
miles  Irom  wherc  we  met  the  travellers,  we  reached  the* 
iirst  obstacle,  called  Pipemaker's  Creek.  The  bridge 
was  nearly  gone,  but  we  adjusted  the  rafters  a  little,  and 
with  some  difficulty  tq^  our  hors^  over.  After  trdvelling 
tliree  miles  more,  we  reached  Austin's  Creek,  and  here, 
the  bridge  being  entii^ly  gone,  \^e  swum,  our  horses 
across.  A  mile  further  on  we  reached  Black  Creek,  the 
largest  and  most  dai^erous  of  the  tliree.  ^  Ijt  had  swielled 
to  a  great  extent;  .in,  tlic  middle  the  .cup^nt,  wqs  rapidj 
and  tlie  bridge  was  iii;a  very  shattered- ^o^^^^"*  ^^ 
liad.tp  wade  waUi, our  horses  nearly  he)ly  flcepi,  above 
200  yards,  before  we  c£|mc  to  the  bridge,  ahfl  here  alight- 
i^>g,  I  walked  along,  ,up  to  the  knees  in  water^  adjusting 
the  rafters  as  .wqll  as  I  cpuld,  an(^  tlien , with  considerably 
difficulty  led  my  hox'i^e  over:,  a  pomitrypjan,  .whom  we 
came  up  with  at  the  bridge,  attfmpted  to  follow  my  ex- 
ample, but  luis !  }>oi'se  f^jU  tlirough,  and  ^vas.  nq^r  ^tMsing 
lost.  I  pitied  the  pooi*  man,  who  was  in  great  affliction 
for  his  crature^  as  he  call^4  ^P  hof'se;  but  ^ye  agisted 
him,  and  with  considerable, difficulty  got, the  creature,  re- 
lieved. My  fellowTtravel)er  d^cliiied  following  our  exa^l- 
pie,  and,  stri^jping  liis  horse,  he,  swam.. him  through,  thp 
creek,  himself  walking  along,  the  remains  of  the  shattered 
bridge.  After  passing  the  bridge,  we  had  ag^to  wade 
about  200  yards  before  we  reaolied  dry  land;  aiid,  a  little 
beyond  the  creek,  we  arrived  at  Hely's  inn,  where  we 
stopped  foi'  dinner.  Here  we  found  the  Augusta  stage 
and  passengers.  They  had  set  out  two  hours  before  us, 
and,  liaving  the  same  obstacles  to  encounter  as  ourselves, 
liad  been  detauied  thus  long.  Our  dimier  consisted  of 
fowls,  bacon,  eggs,   butter,  wheat  bread,   Indian  com 


GEORGIA. 


» 


e.    Two 

iched  thi' 
le  bridge 
ittle,  and 
trdvellin^' 
and  here, 
yg:  horses 
reek,  the 
d  swielled 
7^s  nipidj 
on;  We 
;p,  above 
Te 


adjustmg 

nsiderablp 

kvhom  we 

^v  my  ex- 

b^ing 

affliction 

|e  a^sted 

•qture,  re- 

lur  exapi- 

|oiigh.  thp 

shattered 

to  wade 

|d,  a  little 

here  wc 

sta  stage 

fore  us, 

lurselves, 

sisted  of 

ian  com 


bread,  rice,  and  homony.  The  last  mentioned  dish  I  had 
not  seen  bolore,  and  it  is  not  generally  known.  It  is 
made  of  Indian  com  cleared  of  the  husk, .  and  broken  by 
beating,  but  not  very  small ;  it  is  then  boiled  in  MTitcr  to 
the  consistence  of  pudding,  and  served  up  for  use.  When 
wgW  prepared,  it  is  very  palatable,  and  is  wholesome  nutri- 
tive food.  A  little  cherry  brandy  was  the  only  liquor  we 
could  get.     The  cliarge  for  man  and  horse  was  75  cents. 

Leaving  Hely*s,  we  travelled  two. miles,  wlien  my  fel- 
low-traveller stopped  to  point  out  the  spot  where  two  ne- 
groes were  executed  for  killing  an  overseer.  The  one 
was  hanged,  and  tlie  other  was  burnt  to  death.  I  was  in- 
formed that  this  mode  of  punishment  is  sometimes  inflict- 
ed on  negroes,  when  the  crime  is  very  flagrant,  to  deprive 
them  of  the  mental  consolation  arising  from  a  hope  that 
they  will  after  death  return  to  their  own  country. .  This 
may  be  good  policy,  as  respects  the  blacks ;  but,  in  mercy 
to  tlic  white  people,  I.wisli  it  could  be  a>'oided.  Wh^*ji  I 
looked  at  the  scorched  tree  where  the  man  had  been  tied, 
and  observed  the  fragments  of  his  bones  at  the  foot  of  it, 
I  M'as  horror-stmck ;  and  I  never  yet  can  think  of  the 
scene  witliout  a  pang.  What  feelings  must  have  been 
excited  in  those  who  saw  the  execution !  Thirteen  miles 
beyond  this  we  reached  Berry's  tavern,  28  miles  from  Sa- 
vannah, and  here  we  stopped  for  the  night. 

The  afternoon  was  sultry,  and,  in  consequence  of  the 
heavy  rains,  the  road  was  very  bad.  The  first  13  miles 
we  were  quite  enveloped  in  thick  pine  ^voods,  with  verj- 
little  brush-wood.  The  soil  is^poor  and  sandy,  so  that 
there  are  few  settlements.  The  last  15  miles  were  rather 
more  pleasant,  and  there  are  more  settlements;  but  the 


32 


TRAVBL8   IN 


country  is  level,  abounding  with  marshes^  musquetoeu, 
and  bull-frogs ;  and  tlic  soil  continues  poor  and  sandy. 

Saturday,  28th  June,  we  rose  at  three  o'clock  and  set 
tied  our  bill,  which  amounted  to  one  dollar  and  thirty-one 
cents  each ;  and  travelled  through  a  barren,  swampy,  un. 
pleasant  tract,  10  miles,  ^vhen  wo  stopped  to  breakfast  at 
the  house  of  a  Major  King.  We  were  detained  a  long 
time  here ;  but  we  were  well  compensated  by  getting  an 
excellent  breakfast,  and  the  view  of  the  place  was  far  su- 
perior to  any  thing  we  had  seen  since  we  left  Savannah. 
It  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  the  ground  cleared  for  a 
considerable  way  round,  and  there  is  a  clear  rivulet  in  the 
neighbourhood,  a  thing  uncommon  in  the  low  country ; 
such  streams  being  generally  choaked  up  by  brushwood, 
and  converted  into  swamps. 

After  leaving  King's,  the  country  rises  a  little,  but  it  is 
still  poor  and  sandy.  We  travelled  10  miles  to  Scrogg*s, 
pnd  the  day  being  exceedingly  hot,  we  stopped  here  for 
dinner.  Hearing  the  noise  of  a  wheel  up  stairs,  which 
was  the  first  I  had  heard  in  America,  I  went  to  sec  What 
was  going  on.  Here  I  saw  a  black  girl  carding  cotton, 
and  a  daughter  of  the  landlord  spinning  the  rolls  on  the 
large  wheel.  They  were  quite  busy,  and  appeared  to  be 
industrious  and  liappy.  After  coming  down  stairs  I  en- 
tered into  conversation  with  the  mistress  of  the  house, 
whom  I  found  to  be  a  sensible  woman,  and  sufficiently 
communicative.  She  informed  me,  that  they,  as  well  as 
all  the  other  families  in  the  neighbourhood,  spun  cotton 
all  the  year  round,  and  got  the  yam  woven  into  every  ar- 
ticle necessary  for  family  use ;  such  as  sheeting,  \shirting, 
toweling,  table-cloths,  gowns,  petticoats,  aprons,  caps; 
pantaloons,  vesting,  and  summer  coats  for  the  men's  use ; 


OKOROIA. 


'86 


usquetoeb, 
i  sandy. 
;k  and  8e^ 

thirty-one 
ampy,  un- 
>iieakfast  at 
ned  a  long 

getting  an 
was  far  su- 

Savannah, 
leared  for  a 
f\f\et  in  the 
IV  country ; 
brushwood, 


bcaidet  sofa-clothes,  fringes,  tassels,  hosiery,  &c.  I  ex- 
amined the  yam  and  cloth,  and  found  the  fabrics  sMbstan- 
tial  and  durable.  The  cloth  was  neatly  nuuiu&ctured,  and 
some  of  the  articles  were  handsome.  I  saw  that  this  fiunily 
was  "  independent  of  commerce ;"  and  this  was  the  first 
impression  that  I  received  as  to  the  importance  of  the 
fhmeatic  mant^acturea  of  America.  The  idea  was  novel, 
d  its  tendency  was  to  militate  against  my  interest  as  an 
importer  ;•  yet  I  cannot  say  but  that  the  feelings  excited  by 
t  were  of  the  pleasing  kind.  Self-interest  is  a  proper 
principle,  but  it  should  be  so  regulated  as  not  to  blunt 
|the  feelings  of  humanity,  nor  to  make  us  repine  at  the 
ell-being  of  others. 

Leaving  this  comfortable  cabin  we  travelled  two  mile% 

hen,  coming  to  a  grocery  store,  we  lighted  to  quench 

thirst ;  the  afternoon  being  excessively  hot  and  sultry. 

ere  we  saw  a  lady  from  Savannah,  who,  having  lost  two 

hildren  in  that  city,  had  retired  here  with  the  third,  the 

nly  one  she  had  left.   The  child  appeared  to  be  thriving, 

d  I  hope  will  live  to  -reward  the  mother  for  her  maternal 

The  Georgian  ladies  appear  to  be  very  fond  of 

hildren,  and,  in  the  country  at  least,  they  seem  to  be  suf- 

ciently  prolific ;  for  we  hardly  ever  passed  a  house  with- 

ut  seeing  a  cluster  of  young  ones ;  and  often  a  child  at 

breast  of  a  mother,  whom,  judging  from  external  ap. 

ipearance,  I  would  have  reckoned  past  child-bearing. 

We  travelled  eight  miles  further,  through  a  country 
nearly  similar  to  that  we  had  passed,  to  Pearce^s;  and 
here  we  stopped  for  the  night. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  places  I  had  yet  seen; 
in  Georgia.  There  are  three  plantations  adjoining,  so 
that  the  country  is  cleared  for  a  considerable  way  pound ; 


^, 


VOL.  I. 


ti 


TRAVELS   IN 


and  being  a  little  elevated,  it  is  free  from  swamps,  and 
tolerably  healthy.  Here  we  saw  a  number  of  starlings, 
and  heard  several  mocking-birds,  whose  notes  were  very 
delightful.  We  retired  to  rest  at  nine  o'clock ;  but  I  was 
so  overcome,  with  fatigue,  that  I  enjoyed  little  repose. 

Sunday,  29th  June.  We  set  out  at  five  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and,  traveling  11  miles  through  pine  woods, 
and  a  barren  sandy  soil,,  we  passed  Beaverdam  creek  by 
a  'wooden  bridge,  and  arrived  at  the  village  of  Jacksoinbo- 
rough.  It  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  creek,  and 
consist^  oi  about  12  dwelling  houses,  a  church,  and  jail. 
The  situation  is  unhealthy  on  the  creek,  but  the  land  is 
considerably  elevated  behind  the  town,  and  is  said  to  be 
quite  healthy. '  The  view  was  gratifying  to  me,  being  the 
^rst  rising  ground  I  had  seen  in  the  United  States. 

We  travelled  nine  miles  beyond  this  to  Burrel's,  to 
breakfast.  The  country  is  completely  barren,  and  covered 
with  pine  trees,  without  any  brushwood,  the  whole  way, 
but  the  air  was  elastic  and  agreeable.  It  is  a  common  re- 
mark in  Georgia,  tliat  the  pine  lands  are  healthy ;  and  the 
circumstance  may  probably  be  accounted  for  by  suppo- 
sing, that  the  resinous  particles  of  the  pine  may  contribute 
to 'increase  the  oxygen  of  the  atmosphere  j  whjle,  the 
wopds  being  generally  on  barren  ground,  no  pernicious 
gases  £ffe  generated  uncongenial  to  the  human  system. 
A  great  portion  of  the  subsistence  of  the  human  body,  is 
received  by  breathing.  The  atmosphere  is  principally 
composed  of  two  fluids,  oxygen  and  azote,  in  the  propor- 
tion of  nearly  three-fourths  of  the  latter  to  one-fourth  of 
the  former.  It  is  the  oxygen  that  supports  animal  life. 
in  respiration  it  is  absorbed  by  the  lungs,  and  combines 
wi^  the  blood,  which  give?  it  its  florid  colour ;  while  the 


In 


■t>  of  1 
the 

wat 


5 


GE'^SGIA. 


Sir 


"amps,  and 
f  stairlings, 
I  wete  very 
;  but  I  was 
repose.  * 
lock  in  the 
>ine  woods, 
1  creek  by 
Jacksonbo- 
creek,  and 
h,  and  jail, 
the  land  is 
s  said  to  be 
%  being  the 
tates. 

Burrel's,  to 

md  covered 

whole  way, 

common  re- 

ly;  and  the 

by  suppo- 

contribute 

while,  the 

pernicious 

an  system. 

an  body,  is 

piincipally 

the  propor- 

le-fourth  of 

mimal  life. 

I  combines 

while  the 


azote  is  thrown  out  by  the  return  of  the  breathing.  There 
are  other  fluids  which  mmgle  occasionally  with  the  atmo- 
sphere, the  principal  of  which  is  hydrogen,  which  is  gene- 
rated freely  by  the  decomposition  of  vegetable  and  animal 
matter  in  water ;  and  this  fluid  is  not  simply  unfit  for  res- 
piration in  a  negative  sense — it  is  positively  noxious.  Hence 
that  state  of  the  atmosphere  which  contains  oxyg^  in  the 
^proper  prop(»tion,  and  where  there  is  no  pther  gas,  except 
azote,  must  be  the  fittest  for  respiration;  and,  from  a 
consideration  of  these  circumstances,  we  may  see  the  rea- 
son why  high  IiilLy  countries,  or  well-drained  low  coun- 
tries, are  healthy — ^while  crowded  cities,   abounding  iq 
^  filth  j  and  low  marshy  situations  in  the  country,  are  the 
Ifeverse.-— From  this  reasoning  we  may  draw  the  following 
ipractical  de4uctions.  ^^..^^ 

1st.  Cities  should  be  so  constructed,  as  to  admit  a  cur- 
rent of  fi^e  air  into  every  spot.  They  should  be  kept 
very  clean ;  and  no  stagnant  \vater,  or  latent  filth,  should 
be  allowed  to  accumulate  in  or  about  them, 

2d.  Low  countries,  when  fixed  upon  as  th^  re^denct 
of  man,  should  be  drained ;  or,  if  that  be  impracticable, 
the  houses  should  be  as  %^rppoyed  fix)||i  iijl  stagnant 
water  as  possible. 

3d.  In  those  diseases  which  are  the  effect  of  breathing 
impure  m,  perhaps  it  would  be  beneficial  to  administer 
oxygen  to  the  lungs  as  a  medicine.  The  use  of  vinegar 
in  diseases  of  this  kind  is  well  known.  It  is  almost  wholly 
composed  of  oxygen,  and  it  parts  with.it  freely ;  so  thaj 
on  sprinkling  a  sick  chamber  with  it,  an  odour  immedi- 
ately rises,  which  is  both  grateful  apd  beneficial  to  the  pa- 
tient. Several  plants  have  the  same,  effect,  particularly 
those  having  an  acid  snidk    I  uus  once  recovered  fi-om 


SB 


TRAVELS   la 


V 


feinting  by  tlie  applicatkAi  of  southernwood.  I  had  been 
aifected  by  breathing  air  deprived  of  its  oxygen  in  a 
crowded  church.  The  oxygen  of  the  plant  supplied  the 
defect,  and  relieved  me* 

V  Having  break&sted,  we  pursued  our  journey  il  miles 
through  a  country  nearly  similar  to  that  already  described, 
but  rather  in  an  improving  state,  to  where  the  road  forks ; 
the  right  branch  leading  to  Augusta,  the  left  to  Waynesbo- 
rough.  We  took  that  towards  Waynesborough,  on  which 
the  country  improves  rapidly.  In  place  of  pine  barrens, 
swamps,  and  muddy  creeks,  we  had  now  an  elevated  dry 
road,  agreeaWy  uneven,  and  adorned  on  each  Side  with 
natural  woods,  consisting  of  pine,  oak,  hickory,  and  black- 
jack. The  underwood  was  pretty  thick  and  bu^y ;  in- 
dicadng  a  considerable  degree  of  fertility.  Seven  miles 
from  where  we  left  the  Augusta  road  we  reached  vridow 
Laseter's,  where  we  stopped  to  dinnw,  and  were  hospita- 
bly entertained.  The  healthiness  of  die  place  was  visible 
in  the  countenances  of  the  family,  among  whom  were  two 
pretty  little  girls. 

A  little  before  we  reached  this  place  we  passed  a 
church,  which  we  ^ve^e  informed  belongs  to  the  metho- 
dists.  This  sect  has  been  long  established  in  Georgia, 
and  the  zeal  with'  which  they  have  propagated  their  opi- 
nions, and  enforced  the  principles  of  morality  amongst 
jkheir  votaries,  does  them  credit.  They  have  been  of  con- 
siderable use  in  society,  and  I  wish  them  success  in  every 
good  work.  But  I  cannot  see  the  propriety  of  some  of 
their  proceedings.  Their  camp  meetings  may  be  very 
well  meant,  and  may  be  calculated  to  do  some  good; 
but  they  are  a  species  of  "  holy  fair"  at  which  **  grace" 
is  not  the  only  commodity  to  be  purchased ;  and,  fix>m  tjhe 


GEORCilA. 


Srt 


had  been 
^gen  in  a 
pplied  the 

y  11  miles 
described, 
■oad  forks ; 
iV"aynesbo- 
[i,  on  which 
ne  barrens, 
levated  dry 
i  side  with 
and  black- 
bu^y;  in- 
teveh  miles 
hed  widow 
sre  hospita- 
was  visible 
a  were  two 


}me  good; 

«*  grace'* 

.,  fix)mthe 


!>.  -7 


mode  in  which  they  are  frequeWed  by  the  profane  and 
Ae  profligate,  it  is  questionable  whether  the  evil  attending 
them  does  not  overbalance  the  good.     And  I  can  see  as 
little  sense  in  the  practice  tliey  often  have  of  thumping 
and  making  a  noise  in  the  time  of  divine  service,  thereby 
converting  the  temple  of  the  Lord  into  a  scene  of  confu- 
sion and  discord,   exciting  the  laughter  of  the  profane, 
rand  distracting  the  serious;    We  were  informed  that  a  lit- 
tle before  we  reached  this  place,  a  poor  girl  was  so  affect- 
ed, that  she  fell  down  in  a  fit;  and  that  a  black  female 
preacher,  of  the  name  of  Dorothy  Ripley,  frequently  at> 
tended,  and  had  the  art  of  playing  upon  the  passions  so 
effectually,  that  she  would  sometimes  trip  half  a  dozen  of 
ler  hearers.    "  Let  all  things  be  done  decently  and  in 
•der,"  says  the  apostle.     Let  the  meithodists  go  and  do 
likewise.    * 

While  we  were  speaking,  we  saw  a  crowd  of  men,  wo- 
moi,  and  children,  who  had  been  at  a  baptist  camp  n^det* 
ing.  The  baptists  are  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  nume- 
rous and  influential  religious  societies  in  the  state.  They 
are  also  zealous  in  propagating  their  opinions,  and  arp 
pretty  austere  in  their  manners ;  but  I  did  not  hear  of  any 
excesses  in  their  camp  meetings  or  churches. 

Leaving  Mrs.  Laseter's,  we  travelled  four  miles  to 
Waynesborough,  and  lodged  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Wynne ; 
who  to  the  business  of  tavern-keeper  joins  that  of  post- 
tnaster. 

Waynesborough  is  built  principally  on  one  street, 
and  consists  of  about  40  dwelling  houses,  church,  jail, 
academy,  and  court-rooms.  It  contmns  220  inhabitants, 
of  whom  above  one  half  are  slaves.  The  land  in  its  vici- 
nity is  pretty  good ;    is  cultivated  a  considerable  way 


38 


TBAVELB  IN 


round;  and  there  are  in  its  neighbourhood  some  very 
wealthy  planters.  It  is  distant  from  .Savannah  river  12 
miles,  and  has  a  considerable  trade  in  dry  goods  and  gro- 
ceries. 

Having  spent  a  day  in  this  place,  and  parted  with  my 
fellow-traveller,  who  took  the  road  to  Augusta,  I  set  out 
for  Louisville  on  Tuesday  the  1st  of  July,  at  five  o'clock 
in  the  morning.  Five  miles  from  Waynesborough  I  came 
to  a  fine  sprmg,  and  descended  a  considemble  way  by  a 
stony  path  to  a  rivulet,  on  which  I  heard  the  sound  of 
several  mills.  The  sound  of  machinery  is  always  grate- 
ful to  my  ear,  and  the  view  of  the  stones  excited  no  small 
degree  of  interest ;  being  the  first  that  I  had  seen  in  the 
United  States.  After  travelling  nine  miles  further,  through 
a  barren  country,  I  came  to  a  deserted  church,  where  the 
road  forks.  Itook  the  wrong  road,  which  led  me  out  of 
my  course  among  a  number  of  plantations.  I  found  the 
inhabitants  were  principally  Irish  people,  by  one  of  whom 
I  was  informed  of  my  mistake,  and  got  directions  as  to 
the  best  method  of  rectifying  it.  The  family  were  at 
breakfast,  consisting  of  pork,  potatoes,  and  coffee ;  and  I 
was  hospitably  invited  to  partake,  but  I  declined  it;  and, 
pursuing  the  directions  received,  I  soon  reached  the  wag- 
gon road  from  Savannali,  and  arrived  2^t  Louisville^  at  10 
o'clock. 


*fi-. 


CO 


IT' ha 


■V7i    '  ■"  "j ' * ■' itrt.y'^.-r- 


%■ 


GBOROU. 


39 


d  with  my 
,  I  set  out 
ive  o'clock 
ugh  I  came 
e  way  by  a 
le  sound  of 
svays  grate- 
ed  no  small 
seen  in  the 
ler,  through 
I,  where  the 
i  me  out  of 
[  found  the 
le  of  whom 
actions  as  to 
ily  were  at 
iffee;  and  I 
led  it;  and, 
4  the  wag- 
iviUe,  at  10 


■^ 


CHAPTER  V. 

Louisville. 

Louisville  is  the  present  capital  of  the  state  of 
Georgia,  and  is  situated  on  the  north-east  bank  of  the  Ogfe- 
chee  river,  70  miles  from  its  outlet,  and  100  miles  west 
from  Savannah.  It  consists  of  about  100  dwelling  houses, 
'and  contains  about  550  inhabitants,  of  whom  nearly  one 
lalf  are  slaves.  It  is  built  on  an  elevated  situation,  and 
there  is  a  pretty  extensive  vjew  to  the  westward;  but  con- 
kderable  marsh  effluvia  is  generated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  which  renders  the  place  rather  unhealthy.  The 
country  in  the  neighbourhood  is  well  cultivated;  and 
Louisville  contains  a  civil,  well-bred  society.  There  are  ten 
dry-good  and  grocery  stores  in  the  place,  and  they  have 
a  considerable  inland  trade.  J^ouisyille  is  at  present  the 
seat  of  government,  but  it  is  about  to  be  removed  to  Mil- 
ledgeville,  a  new  setdement,  about  50  miles  distant. 

It  was  my  intention  to  go  further  up  the  country,  and  I 
had  everything  prepared  for  that  purpose;  but  in  the 
evening  I  was  suddenly  seized  with  a  fever,  which  defeat- 
ed my  object,  and  at  one  time  threatened  very  serious 
consequences.  The  day  had  been  uncommonly  hot  and 
sultry ;  the  thermometer  stood  as  high  as  93i°  in  the  shade. 
In  the  evening  there  was  a  cool  thunder  gust,  and  the 
night  got  very  close  and  sultry.  I  went  to  bed  early ;  but 
I  had  sparcely  lain  down  wherf  I  found  tlie  fever  come  on 


i 


J 


4l^  TRAVELS   IN 

with  extreme  violence.  I  was  in  danger  of  suffocation, 
and  ran  to  the  window  to  get  fresh  air;  but  all  was  still; 
there  was  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring.  I  observed  three 
beds  in  the  room  empty,  and  thought  I  would  try  an  ex- 
periment. I  wrapped  myself  up  in  a  blanket,  and  taking 
all  the  clothes  of  the  three  bedsj  I  threw  them  over  me.  I 
had  a  small  bottle  of  Madeira  wine  prepared  for  the  journey, 
of  which  I  took  a  little,  and  laid  it  at  my  head.  My  pulse 
rose  to  130,  and  I  suffered  the  most  excruciating  pain  for 
about  half  an  hour,  when  a  profuse  perspiration  broke  out 
and  relieved  me.  I  |)artook  freely  of  the  wine,  and  k6pt 
up  the  ^x^rspiration  until  morning,  when  the  fever  was 
quite  gone;  but  I  was  debilitated  to  such  a  degree  that  I 
could  hardly  stand.  ^ 

On  getting  up,  I  judged  it  expedient  to  take  medical 
advice,  and  applied  to  a  Dr.  Powell,  who  prescribed  some 
medicme,  and  advised  me  to  decline  going  further  up  the 
country  at  present,  the  season  being  quite  too  far  advanced 
for  travelling.  He  recommended  to  stop  two  or  three 
days  in  Louisville,  and  then  to  cross  over  to  Augusta  by 
the  way  of  Richmond  Springs,  where  I  could  st(^  a  few 
days,  and  in  case  I  found  I  could  not  travel  from  Augusta 
on  horseback,  I  could  take  the  stage.  This  advice  I  re- 
solved to  follow,  and  made  my  arrangenlents  accordinglyv 

Having,  in  consequence  of  this  determination,  a  tittie 
time  to  spare,  I  wished  to  apply  it  to  the  best  advantage, 
and  I  was  kindly  assisted  by  my  friend  Dr.  Powell.  He 
invited  me  to  his  house,  and  introduced  me  to  Mrs.  Pow- 
ell, a  very  sensible  judicious  lady,  by  whom  I  was  treated 
with  marked  attention. 

The  doctor  and  his  lady  gave  me  every  information 
that  could  be  desired,  and  I  was  finally  invited  to  take  <a 


Ht&? 


i^i 


at 
inl 


ml 


f 


GEORGIA. 


M 


suffocation, 
1  was  still ; 
Tved  three 

try  an  ex- 
and  taking 
>ver  me.  I 
le  journey, 

My  pulse 
ng  pain  for 
I  broke  out 
3,  and  k6pt 

fever  was 
igree  that  I 

ike  medical 

ribed  some 

ther  up  the 

r  advanced 

Q  or  three 

ugusta  by 

stc^)  a  few 

Augusta 

vice  I  re- 

cordinglyv 

n,  a  Utde 

dvantage, 

ell.    He 

rs.  Pow- 

treated 

formation 
to  take  .a 


bed  at  their  house,  by  which  means  I  was  relieved  fipom 
the  bustle  of  a  public  tavern,  and  the  still  more  disagree- 
able sting  of  the  musquetoes  with  which  the  bedrooms 
in  it  were  infested. 

On  Friday,  the  4th  of  July,  I  had  quite  recovered  from 
my  indisposition,  and  walked  out  in  the  morning  to  see 
tlie  state-house.    It  is  a  good  building  of  brick,  about  50 
t  square,  and  consists  of  two  stories,  having  three  ap- 
ents  each,  and  a  large  lobby.     The  house  of  repre- 
sentatives meet  in  an  apartment  on  the  lower  floor,  and 
le  other  two  are  occupied  as  the  secretary's  office,  and  the 
d  office.    The  upper  story  consists  of  the  senate  cham- 
r,  the  executive  office,  and  the  treasury.     The  offices 
ere  all  shut,  except  the  land  office.     I  went  into  it,  and 
w  a  map  of  the  newly  acquired  territory,  or  purchase^  as 
is  called;  concerning  which  the  legislature  had  recently 
sed  an  act  that  was  the  subject  of  considerable  animad- 
ersion  in  the  state.  > 

This  tenitory  is  situated  between  the  Oakmulgee,  and 
cpnee  rivers;  and  was  lately  acquired  in  exchange  with 
lene  of  the  Indian  tribes.    The  land  is  said  to  be  rich  and 
'^^yaluable;  and  it  is  very  extenave,  consisting 'of  about  10(1 
cts,  of  12  miles  by  8.    It  is  to  be  disposed  of  by  lot- 
ry,  in  whicli  every  citizen  dT jthe  United  States,  who  has 
sided  three  years  in  Georgia,  is  entitled  to  a  draw  for 
200  acres;  and  those  who  g^tthe  prizes  have  to  pay  12 
dollars,  being  the  expense  of  suryqring  only. 

This  I  regard  as  a  very  impr^^  way  of  disposing  of 
public  property,  and  it  i^M||!uliarly  baneful  to  practise  it 
under  the  representative  «^»  PrcfiKFty,  when  public, 
belongs  to  every  meniber|«|||^^p^niiii|Mty,  and  no  alie- 
nation ought  to  take  place  i!Hilli||||||^uring  alike  the  rights 
VOL.  r.  is  '^ 


'^  . 


TRAVELS   IK 


of  all.  But  this  can  never  be  done  by  a  lottery,  which  is 
a  game  of  chance,  and  all  cannot  be  gainers.  To  the  gainer 
it  ia  more  than  well.  He  gets  an  advantage  over  his  nei|^ 
bour,  and  is  satisfied;  but  who  indemnifies  the  loset'?  .^ 

In  this  case,  would  it  not  have  been  better  for  the  stiite 
to  have  retained  it,  and  sold  it  out  at  the  market  price? 
The  funds  arising  from  it  might  have  been  usefully  applied 
in  making  roads  and  bridges,  in  improvmg  the  navigation 
of  rivers,  draining  marshes,  &c.  Legislators  have  a  most 
impoitant  trust  reposed  in  them,  and  should  never  sacrifice 
great  national  objects  to  obtain  temporary  popularity^ 

This  being  the  anniversary  of  American  kidependendti 
the  day  was  ushered  in  by  the  firing  of  great  guns^  and 
military  companies  had  collected  in  Jjouisville,  frotti  iht 
whole  Country  rounds  On  my  return  to  the  taverUf  I 
found  a  considerable  number  of  the  military  assembled 
there.  I  was  waited  on  by  a  committee  of  tlie  drtiUery 
company,  and  received  a  very  polite  invitation  to  dine  wi^ 
them,  which  I  accepted  with  pleasure,  being  anxious  to 
observe  the  mode  of  celebrating  this  day,  so  important  in 
the  anmds  of  America. 

About  3  o'clock  we  sat  down  to  dinner.  The  captain 
took  his  phce  at  the  head  of  the  table,  the  oldert  lieutenant 
at  the  fi)ot;  the  committee*  gave  the  different  orders,  and 
all  <were  on  an  equal  footing.  ^Several  of  die  state  officers 
dined  with  them. 

After  dinner  they  drank  Madeira  wine  to  a  series  of  toasts, 
one  for  each  state,  wM^  had  been  {H^vibusly  prepared. 
Among  the  numberiiere  '^'^pifywe  celebrate  ;'^'^illic 
land  we  live  in;"l«IThe  0g^^'o£  the  United  States;" 
*' Memoiy  of  gefieNl  VPiA^^i^.''  *<  Memory  of  B^^ 
min  Franklitfi^,^'  M^aiiiiif  oha  Pdrce,"  Uq.    Each 


OBOIGIA. 


4& 


foaft  was  followed  by  a  discharge  of  artillery,  and  tha  mu^c 
played  an  appropriate  air.  A  number  of  excellent  songs 
were  sung,  and  the  afternoon  was  spent  with  great  convi* 
viallty  and  good  humour. 

Haying  s^\cral  calls  to  make  in  the  town,  I  left  the  table 
early,  but  returned  again  in  the  evening,  when  I  found  that 
the  cordial  drcp  had  added  greatly  to  the  elevation  of  the 
animal  spirits  of  the  company.  They  had  also  received 
an  addition  to  their  number,  by  several  military  officers 
high  in  command,  among  whom  was  major-general  Jack- 
son* Having  OGcasbn  to  give  a  toast,  I  availed  myself  of 
that  opportunity  to  impress  them  with  favourable  senti- 
ments towards  my  native  country.  America  had  been 
long  regarded  with  a  jealous  eye  by  the  councils  of  Bri- 
tB&Kit  and  an  almost  total  alienation  of  affection  was  the  conse^ 
quence.  I  knew  that  Mr.  Fox*s  administration  was  favoiO'. 
ably  disposed  towards  America,  and  I  was  inclined,^  as 
&r  as  I  had  opportunity,  to  impress  the  Americans  with 
thitf^  belief'  Accordingly,  after  thanking  the  company  for 
the  honour  they  luul  conferred  upon  me,  and  assuring  them 
of  my  own  friendly  r^ard  forc^e  country,  I  proposed  a$ 
a  toast,  **  Mr«  Fox,  and  the  independent  whigs  of  Britaim 
May  their  joinl  endeavours  wkh  the  government  of  the 
United  8t«tes  be  the  means  Of  reconciling  the  iUffbences 
between  the  two  countries;  and  to.  die  latest  posterify  may 
Americana  and  Britons  hail  one  another  as  brothers  and  as 
firiends."  This  was  cordially  received,  and  drank  accord- 
ingly s  and  immediately  af^r  I  was  introduced  to  and  po- 
litely received  by  the  visiting  officers. 
^  The  whole  of  my  obseryatbns  in  this  place  tended  to 
convince  me^  that  the  Amcs^Gflo.  character  was  very  ndif- 
ferently  undeistpod  in  Britainrr  and,  indeed,  v^ry  much 


m 


TBAYBLS   IN 


misrepresenled.  I  was  satisfied,  from  every  thin^  I  saw 
and  heard)  that  there  was  no  animosity  against  the  British 
people  whatever;  and  that  the  animosity  against  the  British 
government  was  the  consequence  of  what  they  conceive  to 
be  a  series  of  injuries  long  persevered  in,  and  some  of 
them  even  justified  on  the  score  of  priv^ege.  '  '  ^  v  "^ 
.{Great  mistakes  may  be  committed,  by  judging  of  Utit 
American  chaiBcter  lirdm  what  is  to  be  seen  in  the  sea- 
ports. Nothing  can  be  more  erroneous  than  a  judgment 
so  formed.  The  commercial  cities  of  America  are  like 
those  of  other  countries,  and  principle  is  often  sacri5ced 
at  the  shrine  of  commerce ;  while  a  considerable  partidf 
the  commerce  of  the  United  States  is  carried  on.  by  fo- 
refers,  each  so  anxious  to  extend  the  trade;  with  his 
mtive  country^  in. which  he  is  most  interested,  that  the 
tone  cif  national  sentiment  i^  often  lost,  or  but  indistinctly 
seeft,  in  the  conflicting  opinions  which  are  every  day  pro^ 
mulgated. -  \     .  ■..'Kicnl  ■      .-.'riiji^K  ;  t^M'siil  "       'i';-^ 

'.r^'iTQ  view  the  American  character  iairiy,  we  mustigo  intd 
the  linterior  of  the .  country,:  -and  there  the  i  first  remark  'will 
probably  be,  that  the  inhabitants;  have  a 'spirit  of  indepeh- 
denoe;<and  wiU' brook  inc^  superiority^  ,£vtr3»hiati  is  cotii. 
scious  of  his  own- political  importance,  :and  wiitt  sufifer  none 
to  treat' hun  wi^h  disrespects)  Nor  i&  this  dispoaitioii  taa^ 
fined  t)i(>i one  rank;  >  it  jpervades  the  whole,  and  id  probabty 
the  bctst  gtiarantee  ior  the  continuance  of  the  liberty  and 
independence  of  the  country.  Hi: -[yf^o  '  ' '     ' '    i ji i6«*i: 

Itha^  been  remarked,  th^t  this  disposition' njayeneoti^^ 
rage  rudeness;  but  I  havemojt  yet  seen  it«  *'  As  the^people 
will  bcind  to  no  superiority^  they  really  afiect  lioiie/;  and  I 
am  impressed  with  theibelief,ithat  it. is  a  stranger's  own 
fault,  if;l»e  does  not  f<^:yefyihap^  among  them.    ; 


// 


^  OEORUIAj^  »' 


45 


Stkttirday,  July  5th.  I  left  Louisville  at  5  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  and  travelled  through  a  barren,  sandy 
country,  twenty  miles  to  breakfast.  From  thence,  I  tra- 
velled eight  miles  more,  through  pine  woods,  to  Richmond 
Springs,  which  I  reached  to  dinner.  Towards  the  springs, 
the  country  gets  elevated,  and  agreeably  uneven ;  but  the 
soil  is  miserably  poor.  The  springs  have  no  other  medi- 
cinal quality  than  what  is  conferred  by  limestone,  of  which 
there  is  here  a  considerable  bed ;  and  there  is  a  fine  rivu- 
let, which  Mr.  Posner,  the  proprietor,  has  very  judiciously 
diverted  into  a  bathing-house ;  and,  at  a  great  expence, 
ha«!  converted  the  whole  into  bathing  quarters,  ^vith  amplp 
accommodations.  I  staid  two  days  at  this  place,  and  found 
my  situation  very  comfortable.  I  lia^  an  opportunity  of 
bathing  in  the  piire  spring  water  orice  or  twice  a-day,  ^d 
had  limestone  water,  pure  from  thei'itick,  to  drink.  Our 
victuals  were  good,  and  the  cookery  excellent.  My  health 
I  found  re-established,  and  my  spirits  recruited ;  so  that 
every  thing  concurred  to  render  the  place  agreeable. 

And  yet  this  place,  which  might  be  so  beneficial  to 
Georgia,  is  neglected.  Mrs.  Posner  is  a  woman  of  co- 
!aur,  and  is  disliked  by  the  Georgian  ladies,  who  will  not 
go  to  her  house.  Where  the  ladies  will  not  go,  the  gen- 
tlemen will  not  go,  and  so  poor  Mr.  Posner  does  not  get 
a  prc^r  reward  for  his  exertions,  and  tlie  Georgians  lose 
the  benefit  of  one  of  the  sweetest  summer  retreats  in  all 
the  country. 

I  was  really  sorry  to  learn  this  tale,  for  I  was  exceed- 
ingly well  pleased  with .  madam  Posner's  attention.  The 
old  man  is  a  sort  of  poet  too^  and,  though  his  rhymes  arc 
not  to  be  compared  with  those  *of  Pope  or.  Milton,  yet 
they  are  humorously  recited,  and  in  a  dialect  that  never  fails 


^'^ 


u 


TBAVBLt  Vsr 


to  excite  risibility.  He  JUtvoured  me  with  a  oopy  qf  ver- 
lies,  which  he  addressed  to  a  little  swindliiig  Jew  of  my  ac- 
quaintance in  Savannah,  who,  he  said,  had  cheated  him; 
and  of  which  the  concluding  stanaa  will  be  sufficient  to 
satisfy  the  reader  of  his  poetical  powers. 

But  it  lurely  was  a  great  sin, 

To  send  me  common  whisky  in  place  of  Hollands  gin. 
7*he  worst  remuns  behlndr^ 
To  send  me  common  Malaga,  in  place  of  good  Madeira  wine*  ' 

•"it  - 

Monday,  July  7th.  Set  out  for  Augusta,  at  4  o'clock 
in  the  morning.  The  road,  which  is  pretty  good»  runs 
through  a  hilly,  uncultivated  tract  of  country,  on  which 
there  are  some  settlements,  with  several  creeks,  and  saw 
and  grist  mills.  I  reached  Augusta,  which  is  mteen 
miles  from  the  springs,  at  9  o'clock. 


LV, 


rTiat,':*«r.-,i.v 


:•*' 


M»MBOIA« 


47 


CRAPT£Il  VI. 


AuguHdr^South  Carolma^'^Savanna/t. 


Augusta  U  situated  on  a  htuWUdme  plain^  <m  the 
south  side  of  Savannah  River,  127  mites  from  Savannah, 
and  contains  about  3400  inhabitants,  of  whom  above  one** 
half  Btt  slaves*  The  public  buildings  are,  two  churches^ 
an  academy,  a  court-house,  jail,  a  market-house,  and  se- 
veral public  warehouses*  The  town  is  at  the  head  of 
large  boat  navigation,  and  carries  on  a  very  extensive  and 
profitabte  trade,  both  with  Savannah  and  the  baqk  coun- 
try* Many  of  the  merchants  are  wealthy,  and  import  their 
goods;  and  the  greater  part  of  the  others  purchase  in 
New  York.  The  town  was  originally  settled  by  emigranti 
from  Scotland;  but  the  society  is  now  very  mixed,  and 
probably  those  of  Irish  extraction  are  the  most  numerous. 
The  inhabitants  are  in  general  Well-kiformed,  and  have  a 
GonMderabk  taste  for  literature.  They  are  affiible  in  their 
deportment,  and  polite  and  hospitable  to  strangers. 

The  country  round  Augusta  is  agreeably  diversifiedi 
and  wdl  cultivated.  The  whole  plain,  on  which  Augusti^ 
stands,  is  remarkably  fertile;  and  towards  the  south-west) 
the  country  rises  into  cOnsideralde  hills,  interspersed  with 
fertile  pkdns,  remarkably  favourable  for  the  culture  of  cbt-* 
ton ;  and  the  cotton  plantations^  are  in  a  very  thriving  states 
This  is  reckoned  the  boundary  between  the  high  and 


low  country.  The  falls  in  ,the  river  are  three  miles  above 
Augusta,  and  immediately  on  leaving  tlie  town  for  the 
westward,  the  great  contrast  between  this  and  the  low 
country  is  seen  :  in  place  of  swamps,  marshes,  and  sandy 
deserts,  the  senses  are  gratified  by  high  rising  grounds, 
rich  verdure  in  the  wobds,  and  cleai*  streams  of  water. 

I  remained  in  Augusta  from  the  7th  to  the-  14th  of 
July,  during  which  period,  I  made  several  little  excursions 
to  the  country,  to  see  the  cotton  plantations,  the  greater 
part  of  which  were  in  a  thriving  state.  The  river  is  here 
500  yards  broad,  and  very  deep ;  and  I  found  the  trade 
^  upon  it  to  exceed  my  expectations.  The  weather  was  hot 
and  sultry,  the  thermometer  varying  from  88**  to  94", 
though  OL  day  it  fell  as  low  as  72".  I  was  well  pleased 
v/ith  the  civilities  of  the  inhabitants,  and  I  left  Augusta 
W'^  with  sentiments  of  friendly  regard  towarvis  them. 
,  *  A  Mr.  Scarborough,  of  Nortti  Carolina,  gave  me  a  very 
wai'm  invitation  to  visit  him  when  J  was  in  the  tipper 
country,  and  I  resolved  to  cross  the  Savannah  River,  and 
return  by  his  place.  I  accordingly  left  Augusta  on  the 
14th  of  July,  at  11  o'clock,  and,  travelling  about  three 
miles  through  the  level  plain  on  which  the  city  stands,  I 
crossed  the  river  by  a  flat  boat.  I'he  road  rises,  on  the 
Carolina  side,  to  a  considerable  emlneiice,  but  the  soil  is 
poor  and  sandy.  At  five  miles  from  tlie  river,  I  called  at 
a  very  handsome  plantation,  belonging  to  a  Mr.  Taylor, 
by  whom  I  was  hospitably  detained  to  dinner.  A  planter 
from  the  neighbourhood  was  there,  and,  as  his  plantation 
Jay  on  my  route,  I  availed  myself  of  his  company,  and  had 
a  very  agreeable  ride,  of  twelve  miles,  to  the  saw-mill  aiid 
store  of  a  Scots  gentleman,  where  I  stopped  for  the  night. 


SOUTH^^RC^tlNA. 


49 


On  the  15th,  at  day-break,  I  proceeded  on  my  journey, 
through  a  low,  s^vampy,  barren  country,  where  the  road 
forked  so  often,  that  I  travelled  with  difficulty ;  but,  after 
missing  my  way  several  times,  I  reached  Mr.  Scarbo- 
rough's, at  11  o'clock,  where  I  found  a  most  hospitable 
welcome. 

On  my  way,  I  passed  many  creeks  and  saw-mills,  and 
I  learned  that  a  considerable  trade,  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  consists  in  sawing  timber  into  boards  and  planks, . 
called  lumber^  and  floating  them  down  the  riv^er  to  jl* 
market.  '^'^ 

Mr.  Scarborough  has  a  very  comfortable  establishment, 
consisting  of  a  good  farm,  a  store,  and  saw-mill;  and,  be- 
ing much  respected,  has  the  best  trade  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  On  going  into  the  store,  I  was  surprised  to  ob- 
serve the  vast  variety  of  articles  it  contained ;  consisting 
of  diy-goods,  groceries,  hardware,  earthenware,  medicinis,  * 
&c.  I  was  informed,  that  the  mode  of  doing  business 
was  to  give  a  credit  to  the  planters  till  the  crop  was  ready 
for  market,  and  then  to  take  their  suiplus  produce,  c6n- 
sistihg  principally  of  cotton,  in  payment.  The  business 
was  conducted  by  a  discreet  Englishman,  and  they  had 
an  excellent  run ;  but  I  learned  that  country  stores  had 
multiplied  to  such  an  extent,  that  the  business  was  over- 
done generally,  and  people  would  need  to  be  very  cautious 
in  dealing  with  country  merchants. 

Having  been  most  hospitably  entertained  by  this  ^imily, 
for  two  days,  I  took  my  departure  for  Savannah,  on 
Thursday,  17th  July,  and  rode  28  miles  throu^  a  very 
barren  country,  containing  few  settlements,  to  the  house 
of  a  Mrs.  Dunn,  where  I  stopped  for  the  nig^t. 

yoL.  I.  G 


50 


TRAVELS    IN 


'  Friday,  18th.  Set  out  at  daylight,  and  travelled  through 
a  more  dismal  country  than  any  that  I  had  yet  seen. 
From  Mrs.  Dunn's  to  Sister's  ferry,  on  the  Savannah  ri- 
ver, 14  miles  distant,  tliere  is  hardly  a  single  settlement. 
The  country  is  j^erfectly  level,  except  towards  the  river, 
where  there  are  a  few  sand-hills;  the  woods  are  mostly 
pine,  and  I  found  some  settlements  had  been  attempted, 
and  abandoned  by  the  settlers.  At  one  of  these,  I  met 
with  a  considerable  disappointment :  I  came  to  a  fork  of 
the  road,  and,  seeing  a  plantation  at  a  distance,  I  rode  to 
it,  to  inquire  the  right  way  ;  but,  lo !  on  my  arrival  there, 
I  found  it  inhabited  by  goats  only. 

I  arrived  at  the  river  about  nine  o'clock,  and  crossed 
the  feiTy  in  a  flat  boat.  The  river  is  here  about  250 
yards  broad,  and  flows  with  a  majestic  sweep.  I  tra- 
I  veiled  i^arly  a  mile  through  a  muddy  swamp,  in  which 
the  horse  was  frequently  up  to  the  knees,  and  I  wvls 
much  annoyed  by  musquetoes.  From  this  swamp,  the 
ground  rises  abruptty,  to  a  considerable  elevation,  and 
bears  evident  marks  of  having  been  at  one  time  the  bank 
of  the  river.  From  hence  I  travelled  about  a  mile, 
when  I  came  into  the  Savaniiali  road,  not  far  from  King's 
tavem,  mentioned  in  the  fourth  chapter.  I  found  the  Sa- 
vannah road  now  dry  and  good,  and  I  travelled  on  with 
great  expedition  to  BeiTy's,  where,  tlie  day  being  very  hot 
and  sultr)',  I  proposed  to  remain  for  tlie  night. 

Towards  two  o'clock,  the  weather  became  cool,  with 
an  east  wind,  and  I  set  out  for  Savannah ;  but  I  had  not 
travelled  far,  when  I  saw  all  the  signs  of  an  approaching 
storm'.  To  the  east,  the  atmosphere  was  black  and  dis- 
mal ;  the  wind  was  irregular,  jmd  sometimes  whistled  vio- 
lently ;  I  could  see  the  lightning  flash  in  the  clovtds,  and 


^ttEORGIA. 


51 


heard  the  thunder  roar  at  a  distance;  but  I  was  tempted 
by  the  coolness  of  the  air  to  proceed,  and  observing  that 
the  settlements  were  pretty  thick  by  the  way  side,  I  rel 
solved  not  to  take  shelter  until  there  was  an  absolute  ne- 
cessity. While  I  was  meditating  thus,  I  was  suddenly 
and  dreadfully  alarmed.  A  stream  of  electric  fluid,  ap- 
parently  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist,  darted  suddenly  from 
a  black  cloud,  almost  right  over  my  head,  and  dividing 
in  the  middle  of  the  road,  a  few  yards  before  me,  stoiick 
the  trees  on  each  side,  with  a  shock  Avhich  made  the 
whole  woods  ring.  This  was  instantaneously  followed  by 
such  a  peal  of  thunder,  as  made  my  horse  spring  two  or 
tlwee  feet  high.  I  rode  with  increased  speed,  resolved  to 
take  shelter  in  the  first  house,  but  seeing  no  immediate 
appearance  of  ram,  I  kept  on  my  course  to  Dasher's,  20 
miles  from  Savannah.  Having  stopped  here  some  little 
time,  I  observed  tlie  storm  to  spend  its  force  in  the  east- 
ward, and,  being  satisfied  it  was  over,  set  out  for  Sav^- 
nah ;  and,  after  an  agreeable  ride,  reached  the  city  at  seven 
o'clock  in  the  evening.  I  travelled,  this  day,  52  miles ; 
and  my  wlrole  journey  was  ab6ut  300.  ' 

I  remained  in  Savannah  until  the  27tli  of  Jiiffi  The 
weather  was  very  hot  and  sultry,  but  the  city  continued 
pretty  healthy.  I  was  surprised  to  observe  the  vast  emi- 
gration to  the  northward  at  this  time,  every  vessel  for  New 
York,  Philiidelphia,  Boston,  or  Bahimore,  being  quite 
crowded  with  passengers.  I  had  once  an  intention  of 
spending  a  few  months  on  the  sea  islands,  with  a  friend 
from  whom  I  had  a  very  vrarm  invitation ;  but,  in  conse- 
cjuence  of  letters  from  New  York,  I  was  indnrev"!  to  alter 
my  detcTm' nation,  and  go  to  that  city. 


52 


TRAVELS   OK 


'(<'         > 


^<i.rt~,* 


CHAPTER  Vn. 


*%. 


Passage  to  New  York. 

JlAVING  arranged  my  business,  and  fixed  upon  a  plan 
of  correspondence  with  my  friend  in  Savannah,  I  engaged 
a  passage  on  board  the  brig  Sally,  captain  Ansdell ;  passage 
money  20  dollars,  and  stores  about  28.  My  fellow-pas- 
sengers were  a  Mr.  M*Gee  and  Mr.  Enoe,  of  Savannah ; 
Mr.  Sa3rre,  of  New  York ;  and  a  Mr.  Scottj  from  the 
West  Indies. 

We  went  on  board,  on  Sunday  morning,  the  27th  July, 
at  six  o'clock,  and  at  half  past  six  set  sail.  The  breeze 
was  light,  butiair ;  and,  the  tide  being  in  our  favour,  we 
glided  down  the  river  very  pleasantly ;  passed  the  light- 
house at  11  o'clock,  and  at  12  crossed  the  bar,  and  dis- 
charged the  pilot.  New  York  is  distant  from  hence,  by 
calculation,  615  geogntphical  miles,  in  a  direct  line;  but 
the  projection  of  the  coast  at  cape  Hatteras  obliges  ves- 
sels to  steer  considerably  to  the  eastward,  so  that  they 
have  to  sail  nearly  800  miles.  They  generally  make  sail 
for  the  gulph  stream  in  going  north,  that  they  may  have 
the  benefit  of  the  current. 

We  were  favoured  with  a  southerly  wind,  and  kept  a 
course  a  little  to  the  north  of  east,  till  we  reached  the  lon- 
gitude of  78°,  when  we  steered  a  course  nearly  parallel  to 
the  coast,  about  north-east.  Here  we  were  in  the  middle 
of  the  gulph  stream,  which,  by  calculation,  earned  our 


THE  ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


5ft 


vessel  37  miles  m  24  hours,  which  would  be  a  current  of 
little  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  an  hour ;  but  it  is  gene- 
rally supposed  that  the  current,  at  this  place,  is  upwards 
of  two  miles. 

We  continued  to  have  a  fevourable  breeze,  and  made 
a  good  run,  without  meeting  with  any  circumstance  wor- 
thy of  remark,  until  Saturday,  the  2d  August,  when  we 
experienced  a  very  severe  gale,  which  almost  upset  the 
vessel.  The  wind,  which  had  been  hitherto  from  the 
south  and  west,  shifted  to  the  south-east,  and  was  accom- 
panied by  thick  foggy  weather.  We  were  within  30  or 
40  miles  of  Sandy  Hook,  and  the  wind  was  fair ;  but  the 
gale  encreased,  and  the  weather  was  too  thick  to  see  a 
pilot  boat ;  so  that  the  captain  judged  it  expedient  to  stand 
out  to  sea.  A  gunboat  was  a  little  astern,  and  followed 
our  example.  The  gale  encreased  almost  to  a  hurricane, 
accompanied  by  thick  rainy  weather;  the  captain  was 
carrying  as  much  sail  as  possible,  so  as  to  weather  Long 
Island,  which,  by  calculation,  was  now  but  20  miles  to 
leeward.  Being  a  good  deal  accustomed  to  roug^  weather, 
I  was  lolling  in  an  aftt'  -birth,  looking  out  at  the  cabin 
window,  and  beholding  the  effect  of  the  gale  on  the 
ocean :  when,  all  of  a  sudden,  I  found  the  vessel  heel  to 
leeward,  and  heard  a  great  noise  on  deck.  I  started  up 
with  an  intention  of  going  upon  deck,  but  the  vessel  was 
quite  on  her  beam  ends,  and  I  had  to  swing  myself  along 
by  the  cabin  births ;  and  on  reachinqj  the  gangway,  I 
found  the  passengers  all  crowded  into  it,  and  in  tears.  I 
reached  it  just  in  time  to  hear  the  captain  cry  "  cut  the 
halliards,"  and  immediately  the  sails  were  shivered  to 
pieces,  and  the  vessel  righted.  But  our  danger  was  by 
no  means  ovtr ;  the  vessel  had  not  now  the  necessary  sail 


m 


TRAVELS  OS 


to  carry  to  out  to  sta;  and,  the  captain  said,  if  the  gale 
continued,  we  must  inevitably  be  driven  ashore  on  Long 
Island.  He  was  much  jdTected,  and  in  tears.  Ht  was  a 
][>leasant  little  man,  and  I  really  felt  for  him.  I  had  heard 
somewhere  that  south*east  gales,  on  the  coast  of  America, 
seldom  lasted  above  10  or  12  hours ;  and,  as  this  one  had 
now  continued  upwards  of  nine  liours,  I  endeavoured  to 
console  him  with  tlie  idea,  that  the  chance  was  f»;Teatly  in 
our  favour.  He  admitted  it  was  so,  but  could  not  help 
being  aflfected  while  there  was  any  chance  against  us,  and 
the  vessel  in  her  present  state.  While  wc  were  speaking, 
I  chanced  to  look  to  the  south-west,  and  observed  a  small 
speck  of  blue  sky  througii  the  turbulent  atmosphere.  I 
pointed  it  out  to  the  captain,  and  I  never  saw  a  man  so 
sensiMy  al^cted  with  sudden  joy.  He  affirmed  the  gale 
was  over,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  was  stHl  and  calm. 
The  wind  shifted  to  the  north-west,  blomng  a  delightful 
cool  breeze;  and  shoiHv  after  there  was  not  a  cloud  to  be 
seen  in  the  horizon.  We  put  about  the  vessel,  and  stood 
in  for  the  land ;  but  the  wind  was  now  right  against' us,  and 
we  made  little  progress.  However  \vq  had  time  to  patch 
up  our  sails,  and  made  the  best  of  our  way  towards  our 
destiiied  port.  .siH^];.    .  i 

r-^he  \\^ather  continued  favourable,  and  on  the  3d  oF 
August,  at  daylight,  we  saw  the  high  lands  of  Never 
Sink;  at  IG  o'clock,  we  saw  the  light-house,  distant  10 
or  12  miles ;  soon  after  which  we  had  a  fiiivi  view  of  Long 
Island,  Staten  Island,  the  bay,  and  itumerous  ^'cssels  in- 
ward bound.  The  bi'eeze  continued  light,  so  that  it  was 
4  o'clock  before  we  received  a  pilot ;  after  which  \vx*  came 
to  anchor  five  or  six  miles  south-east  of  the  li£^-hou<«. 
This  pilot  gave  us  information  regarding  the  death*  of  John 


THE    ATLANTIC    OCEAN. 


55 


[  man  so 


PeircC)  the  seamen  who  was  killed  by  a  shbt  from  the 
Leander ;  and  told  us  that  he  had  been  on  board  several 
coasting  vessels  himself  which  had  been  fired  at  by  the 
Cambrian  and  Leander,  on  the  conduct  of  ^\'hose  officers 
be  reflected  in  very  bitter  terms. 

V  Pft  the  morning  of  the  4th  we  set  sail,  but  tlie  brt^e^e 
died  away  in  a  short  time,  and  we  again  came  to  anchor 
within  half  a  mile  of  the  beach,  a  Utde  to  the  south  of  the 
light-house.  At  H  a  small  breeze  sprung  up  from  the 
south,  and  we  again  weighed  anchor.  At  half  past  12  wc 
passed  the  light-house,  and,  the  breeze  encreasing,  we  con- 
tinued our  course  at  a  good  rate,  much  gratified  with  tlic 
prospect  round  us.  Staten  Island,  rising  to  a  considerable 
elevation,  and  clothed  with  verdure,  was  right  aliead. 
Long  Island  was  on  our  right,  with  a  pretty  view  of  the 
Narrows  between  themj  the  high  lands  of  Never  Sink 
astern,  and  the  high  lands  of  the  Jerseys,  to  the  westward ; 
with  the  great  confluence  of  waters  and  crowded  shipping, 
formed  altogether  a  most  beautiful  picture;  and  it  probably 
made  a  greater  impression  upon  me  than  it  would  had  I 
arrived  direct  from  Europe;  tlie  dull  scenery  of  Georgia 
and  South  Carolina  acting  as  a  foil. 

At  half  past  2,  we  passed  the  Narrows,  the  channel  be- 
tween Long  Island  and  Staten  Island,  about  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  broad ;  and  immediately  after  New  York, 
distant  about  10  miles,  with  the  bay  and  shipping,  opened 
to  our 'View;  which  had  a  very  fine  eflfect.  At  liaif  past  3, 
we  arrived  at  the  quiu'antine  ground,  which  is  beautifully 
situated  on  a  small  bay  on  the  eiist  side  of  Staten  Island, 
and  having  got  a  pass  from  the  health  officer,  we  set  sail 
for  New  York.  I  was  veiy  much  gratified  with  tlic  view 
in  our  passage  upwiuxl.     There  ai*e  several  islands  in  the 


56 


TftAYlLS  IH 


boy,  and  the  scenery  on  each  side  b  leaUy  beautiful ;  the 
city  too  is  adorned  with  a  number  of  spires,  wluch  have  a 
fine  effect,  and  in  approadung  it  vre  passed  a  pretQr'  point, 
planted  With  trees,  called  the  Battery.  But  we  could  not 
land  at  the  city.  BpMihe  health  Ufws,  all  cotton,  after  a 
certain  season,  must  be  landed  at  Brooklyn,  on  Long 
Island;  at  which  we  arrived  at  6  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
Fh>m  thence  I  passed  over  to  the  city;  and  immediately 
wuted  on  Mn  Stewart,  a  native  of  Perth,  in  Scotland,  and 
an  old" acquaintance;  from  whom,  and  his  amiable  wifl^,  I 
received  a  most  friendly  welcome,  and  a  kind  invitatien  to 
spend  the  summer  with  them,  which  was  cordially  ac- 
cepted^ 


'.i?M^' 


Wf^ 


'<Mt8*r' 


■  '^^Hm^-. 


KEW  YORK. 


57 


•rr- - 


teiUWEB  vni. 


New  Yark, 

New  YORK  is  situated  on  the  kouth*>^e^  point  ctf 
York  island,  at  the  confluence  of  Hudson  and  East  rivers^ 
b  north  latitude  40°  40'.  the  length  of  the  city  on  East 
river,  is  nearly  two  miles;  and  it  extends  along  the  North 
river  nearly  as  much.  It^  average  breadth  is  sdxiut  one 
mile,  and  its  circumference  sijt.  It  consists  of  about 
15,000  houses,  including  public^  buildings  and  ware- 
houses ;  and  the  inhabitants  are  estimated  at  about  80,000. 
By  the  cdisUs  of  1800,  they  amounted  to  60^489,  but  the 
increase  has  been  very  great  since*.  The  houses  are  ge- 
nerally built  of  brick,  with  slated  of  shingled  roo£s;  aiti 
many  of  them  are  handsome^ 

The  plan  of  the  city  is  not  uniform.  In  the  old  pait  qf 
the  town  some  of  the  streets  are  crooked,  and  many  of 
them  are  too  narrow;  but  all  the  modem  part  is  built  on 
a  good  plan;  and  some  of  the  new  streets  are  uncommoa- 
ly  elegant.  Broadway  is  the  iinest  street  in  the  city,  an4 
from  its  importance,  and  great  beauty,  ii  merits  a  particu- 
lar description.  It  commences  at  the  Battery,  on  the 
south- west  point  of  the  city,  and  runs  in  a  north-north-east 
directi(Mi  about  two  miles  and  a  half,  where  it  forms  a 

*  By  tlie  census  of  1810,  the  whole  Inhabitants  on  the  island 
•mount  to  96,3r3.  -.v>-u-i.-a  u^i^. 


■fsit 


VOL.    I, 


« 


# 


58 


TRAV£LB  IK 


junction  with  the  Bowery  road.  The  breadth  of  this  street, 
including  the  side  puvcments,  is  about  80  feet,  and  it  is 
regular  during  its  whole  length.  It  is  ornamented  with 
rows  of  poplar  trees  on  each  side,  and  a  number  of  pub- 
lie  buildings  are  situated  on  it;  particularly,  the  Custom- 
house,  Trinity  church,  St.  Paul's  church,  the  city  public 
buildings,  the  Mechanics'  Hall,  and  the  hoipital.  The  street 
rises  by  a  gradual  ascent  Crom  the  Battery,  about  half  a 
mile,  and  is  at  its  greatest  elevation  opposite  the  city  build- 
ings. Its  course  is  through  the  higliest  part  of  the  island. 
Greenwich-street  is  next  in  importance.  It  rises  also  at 
the  Battery,  and  runniltg  nearly  due  north,  upwards  of  two 
miles,  connects  tlie  city  with  the  village  of  Greenwich. 
Pearl-street  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  city  in 
point  of  trade.  It  rises  also  near  the  Battery,  and  runs 
nearly  parallel  with  the  East  river  to  Cherry-street;  from 
tlience  h  runs  to  the  northward,  and  ^s  into  Chatham- 
street*.  Cherry-street  is  a  continuation  of  Pearl-street, 
and  runs  along  the  East  river,  till  it  is  terminated  by  a 
bend  of  the  river.  Bowery-lane  is  upwards  of  100  feet 
lyide,  rises  at  Chatham-street,  and,  connected  with  the 
Boston  road,  forms  a  junction  with  Broadway,  as  before 
mentioned.  The  other  most  important  streets  are,  Wall- 
street,  where  the  most  of  the  banks  and  public  offices  are 
situated,  Xhatham-street,  where  the  theatre  is  situated, 
Front-street,  Water-street,  and  Broad-street. 

That  part  of  the  city  which  has  been  recently  laid  out 
on  East  river,  is  constructed  on  a  handsome  plan,  the 
streets:  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles,  and  there  are 
several  public  squares.     Of  these  there  are  by  far  too  few 

->*  Since  1806,  Pea*'l-3tleet  b^s  been  extended  beyond  Chatham- 
^reet,  to  Broadway.  ■  ^ 


% 


NEW  YQIftK» 


59 


in  the  city,  and  they  hardly  merit  nodce.  The  Battery, 
before  mentioned,  is  a  pretty  piece  of  ground,  and  com- 
mands an  elegant  view  of  the  bay,  islands,  narrows,  and 
shipping ;  but  it  is  quite  small,  consistuig  of  a  few  acres 
only.  There  is  a  small  triangular  piece  of  ground,  called 
the  Park,  in  front  of  the  public  buildings,  which  is  very 
ornamental ;  and  these  ai^  all  the  public  walks  of  which 
New  York  can  boast.  Would  it  not  be  well,  in  laying 
out  cities,  to  make  a  large  reserve  of  public  property, 
while  land  is  cheap  ?  Hyde  Park  at  London,  the  Green 
of  Glasgow,  and  the  Inches  of  Pertli,  are  instances  of  its 
utility..  '  '  --t--" 

The  public  buildings  are  numerous.  The  first  in  im- 
portance is  the  City  Hall,  fronting  the  Park.  It  i$  now 
erecting,  of  white  marble,  and  will,  when  finished,  be  the 
most  elegant  building  m  America,  and  few  in  Europe  will 
surpass  it.  The  others  are  Federal  Hall,  Custom-House, 
College,  Cofiee-House,  Mechanics*  Hall,  Theatre,  Hospi- 
tal, Prison,  Bridewell.  There  are  seven  episcopal  churches, 
five  presbyterian,  two  Dutch,  three  methodist,  two  bap- 
list,  two  qiiaker  meeting-houses,  one  German,  one  Lu- 
theran, and  one  French  Calvinistic  church,  one  seceder, 
one  Scots  reformed  church,  oiie  church  each  for  univer- 
jsalists,  congregationalists,  Moravians,  and  Africans,  and 
one  Jewish  synagogue. '      r^j  ^jiimti  lu  jj;  • 

There  are  five  public  markets  in  the  city,  of  which  the 
principal  is  the  Fly-Market ;  and  these  are  well  supplied 
with  wholesome  provisions,  vegetables,  fruit,  and  fish ; 
and  the  prices  are  generally  reasonable.  A  few  of  them 
may  be  quoted.  .  Beef,  mutton j  and  yeal^  9.tQ.l^  cents^ 

*  A  dollaf  exclianges  at  45.  6d.  sterling;  and  a  cent  is  a  fraction 
niorc  thati  a  halfpenny.  *  ¥.. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/z^.***-^ 


1.0  ^Ki  y£ 

■tt  lU   12.2 

E  HA   ^ 
L&    12.0 


31 


J^% 

^   ^ 


Photographic 

ScMioes 

Corparation 


^ 


^^^ 


;\ 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WilSTiR,N.Y.  14SM 

(7I6)R73-4S09 


'4^ 


«> 


TU'A1»1.S  m 


per  poiind ;  a  turkey  75 ;  a  goo^  63 ;  ducks  and  fowls 
about  25  each ;  eggis  14  per  dozen ;  butter  22  per  lb. ; 
lea— rsoiichong  75,  hyson  125 ;  cofiee  20  per  lb. ;  sugar 
12,  refined  20.  Bread  is  regulated  by  flour,  which  is  at 
^Bresent  8  dollars  per  bend.  Fish  and  fruit  plenty  and 
cheap«  Madeira  wine  2|  dollars  per  gallon ;  claret  5  dollam 
per  dozen;  brandy,  r^m,  and  gin,  1|  dollars  per  gallon. 
.  There  are  a  nunfber  of  schools  in  the  city,  and  the  coK 
lege,  in  which  two  of  the  professors  are  Scotsmen,  i» 
reckoned  a  veiy  excellent  seminary  of  education.  To  the 
north  of  ^  city,  ntiar  Greenwkh,  stands  the  state-prison, 
inodelled  upon  the  plan  of  that  of  Philadelphia;  and  it  is 
said  to  be  one  of  the  most  benevolent  institutions  ever 
establbhed  in  any  oountry. 

>'^'The  Ci^  is  well  situated  for  trade.  Ha\4ng  a  spacious 
liarbour,  and  eaSy  access  to  the  ocean  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year,  and  being  in  a  central  situation  in  the  United  States, 
it  must  necessarily  always  command  a  large  share  of  the 
foreign  trade  of  the  country;  and,  having  the  command 
x>f  Hudson^s  RiveT)  navigable  with  its  branches  upwaids 
of  200  miles,  and  the  East  River,,  with  Long  Island  Sound, 
it  has  a  great  share  of  the  internal  trade  of  Jersey,  oif  Ver- 
vnxmti  of  Connecticut,  of  Rhode  Island,  and  of  Massachu- 
setts; besides  the  whole  6f  the  fertile  interior  counliy, 
which,  on  the  other  hand,  fumislies  eveiy  kind  of  produce 
and  provisions,  by  an  easy  water  carriage,^  and  at  a  ipeason* 
^able  rate. 

The  exports  from  New  York  amounted,  in  1805,  to 
23j582,252  dollars^  of  which  15,484,88S  dollars  was  fo- 
reign  produce.  The  imports  probably  amount  to  up- 
ymp^  9f  25,00Q^Q00;  but  k  is  ^  be  observed,  that  New 

•'iiaoi.,':'  «ff  •■■      . 

4  "   I  ■ 


KXW  TOBK. 


61 


York  ekpokts  and  imports  a  great  pordqn  of  the  ccnntno- 
dhies  of  other  states.  « 

The  situation  of  New  York  I  should  reckon  very  heal- 
thy ;  yet  it  is  sometimes  dreadfully  afflicted  with  sickness; 
which  circumstance,  I  an^  rather  inclined  to  think,  arises 
fix>m  a  defect  in  the  police,  which  does  not  seem  to  be 
conducted  in  a  manner  becoming  the  wealth  and  splendour 
of  this  fine  city.  The  buil^ngs  are,  in  many  places,  too 
crowded.  Many  of  the  wharves  are  ill  constructed,  and 
some  of  the  docks  project  into  the  city,  especially  fh>m 
the  East  River,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  common  sewers  are  incomplete,  and  there  is  no  sup- 
ply  of  fresh  water  to  sweeten  and  purify  the  streets ;  but, 
beyond  all,  they  have  adopted  the  system  of  sinking  ne- 
cessaries, which  accumulates  such  a  collection  of  latent 
filth,  that  thk  steams  of  it  are  sometimes  perceptible  at 
two  miles  distance. 

I  soon  got  well  acquainted  with  New  York,  and  ^vas 
much  pleased  by  the  afiability  and  polite  deportment  of 
the  inhabitants.  The  gentlemen,  whom  I  had  occasion  to 
see,  were  mostly  merchants,  who  are  distinguished  as  men 
of  business ;  and  generally  so  well  acquainted  with  the 
nature  of  their  own  trade,  that  they  can  tell  the  value  of 
a  piece  of  goods  almost  as  connectly  as  a  Manchester  or 
Glasgow  manu&cturer.  The  female  society  are  polished 
and  well  bred.  They  have  not,  generally  speaking,  that 
florid  glow  of  health,  for  which  the  Scottish  ladies  are  dis- 
tinguished }  but  they  are,  I  tlunk^  fully  as  handson^e  in 
their  persons  and  features. 

I  heard  but  litdc  politics  among  those  with  whom  I 
associated,  but  I  observed  a  good  deal  in  the  newspapers, 
a^  two  of  them  were  very  coarse  and  scurrilous.    They 


6d 


tbaveLs  ixr 


were  on  di&renC  aides  of  the  political  qneation,  of  course, 
and  substituted  abusive  language  and  persqtial  deda«> 
mation  for  reasoning.  When  a  person  looks  into  a  news- 
paper, it  is  to  see  the  news  of  the  day,  of  which  there  is 
generally  a  summary  in  the  leading  paragraph ;  but,  con- 
trary to  every  diing  I  had  ever  seen  before,  one  of  these 
P^qiers  began  by  abusing  a  cotemponuy,  and  the  other  re- 
turned the  compliment,  with  interest.  I  notice  this  cir- 
cumstance, because  it  made  a  forcible  impression  upon 
me,  and  because  similar  circumstances  are  oft^i  nesorted 
to  in  Briton,  to  represent  the  free  press  in  America  as  in 
the  last  stage  of  depravity.  A  free  press  is  a  great  national 
blessing ;  but,  like  the  best  medicines,  it  becomes  a  most 
deadly  poison  by  abusing  it.  An  editor  of  a  public  paper 
assumes  a  mosit-  important  station  in  soci^.  His  sen>. 
timents  spread  &r,  and  have  a  great  influence  upon  the 
public  mind.  He  is  responsible  for  every  word  he  pub- 
lishes, and  it  is  not  enough  that  he  adhere  to  truth  himself; 
he  b  bound  to  take  care  that  none  other  publish  fidsehood 
through  the  medium  of  his  paper.  A  regard  to  the  pub- 
lic good>  also,  requires  that  truth  should  be  promulgated 
in  decent  language ;  and  nothing  ^lould  be  introduced^  iitto 
a  public  p^iper  with  which  the  public  have  nothing  to  ^. 
Whenever  the  personal  feelings  of  the  editor  have  a  ten- 
dency to  violate  this  rule,  they  should  be  immolated  cii 
the  altar  of  public  decorum.' 

Party  polkics  is  here,  as  well  as  m  Britain,  a  noisy 
subject ;  and  the  quesdon  between  the  parties  not  being 
well  defined,  it  is  difficult  to  understand  it.  From  the 
best  account  of  it  which  I  could  procure,  the  9chwn  sebips 
to  have  taken  place  about  the  time  of  the  adoption  of  the 
federal  constitution,  which  gave  rise  to  very  amroated  dis- 


VEW   YORlt.  if 

ciisiions,  in  which  those  who  were  in  favour  of  it  were 
styled  ftderaUsts,  and  those  opposed  to  it  antifederalhts. 
It  now-  receives  the  approbation  of  the  whole  community, 
but  the  distinction  of  parties  continues,  under  the  names 
of  federalists  and  democrats.  They  equally  lay  claim  to 
the  title  of  republicans,  and  are  often  styled  Jkhral  repub^ 
licans  and  democratic  republicans.  It  was  in  vain  that  I 
looked  for  a  satisfactory  account  of  the  matter  in  the  New 
York  papers  which  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing;  but  I 
observed,  in  one  of  them,  that  the  federalists  were  s^led 
the  disciples  of  Washington,  and  the  democrats  the  sup- 
porters of  Jefferson.  I  thought  I  would  discover  the  dif- 
ference in  the  declared  opinions  of  these  two  eminent  cha^ 
racters.  I  accordingly  turned  to  general  Washington's 
Farewel  Address,  and  Mr.  Jefferson's  Inaugural  Speech, 
but  the  sentiments  inculcated  in  these  two  papers  appeared 
to  me  to  be  precisely  the  same.  The  one  recognizes  po- 
pukur  government,  and  recommends  union,  obedience  to 
the  laws,  religion  and  morality,  and  to  keep  party  spirit 
within  bounds.  The  other  declares,  that  the  will  of  the 
majority,  legally  expressed,  is  the  law  of  the  land ;  and 
recommends  harmony  and  affection,  with  the  free  exercise 
of  reason,  of  religion,  and  of  the  press.  Professing  to  act 
under  these  sentiments,  it  is  somewhat  singular  that  there 
should  be  a  difference  at  all ;  but,  to  use  the  words  of  one 
of  the  characters  above  alluded  to,  "  every  difference  of 
opinion  Is  not  a  difference  of  principle,"  and  the  political 
question  may  be  considered  as  essentially  different  from 
what  it  b  in  Britain.  In  Britain,  the  question  between 
whig  aiKi  tory  is,  whether  the  controuling  power  shall  be 
vested  in  Hhs  people  or  in  the  croum.  In  America,  it  it 
w}^!ether  it  shall  be  vested  in  this  or  that  set  of  men* 


64 


TRAVELS   IN 


,  i» 


Having  merely  glanced  at  this  subject,  I  shall  dismiiss  it 
with  a  fervent  wish  for  the  total  extinction  of  all  party  spirit^ 
tlie  more  to  be  desired  in  the  United  States,  as  party  dis-* 
tinctions  are  apt  to  divert  the  public  attention  from  objects 
of  real  practical  utility,  while  the  difference  in  principle 
among  good  men  is  so  small,  that  they  should  be-all 
republicans,  all  federalists." 

On  the  20th  of  August,  I  was  introduced  to  that  cele- 
brated  character,  Thomas  Paine.  He  was  confined  in 
New  York  by  a  hurt  in  his  leg,  and  lived  in  the  house 'of 
a  Mrs.  Palmer,  widow  of  the  late  deistical  minister  in  thstt 
city.  The  gentleman  who  introduced  me  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  Mr.  Paine,  and  I  was  politely  received  as 
his  friend.  Paine  was  sitting  in  a  small  apartment,  with 
a  number  of  newspapers  before  him,  and  he  gave  one  of 
them  to  my  friend  to  read  some  paragraphs  relative  to  the 
negociations  for  peace  between  Britain  and  France.  In 
the  mean  time,  I  cast  my  eyes  across  the  table,  and,  from 
fiome  MSS.  which  lay  on  it,  judged  he  was  writing  on 
the  subject  of  religion.  The  tide  of  one  of  the  pieces  was 
singular,  namely,  **  It  is  I,  Thomas  Paine,  that  speaketh/' 
I  could  only  see  a  word  here  and  there  of  what  followed ; 
but,  by  the  scope  of  it,  I  presumed  that  it  was  some  sort 
of  religious  creed.  I  was  afterwards  informed,  that  it 
really  was  so,  and  that  he  intended  it  should  be  published 
after  his  death.  When  my  friend  had  finished  reading  the 
newspapers,  they  entered  into  conversation,  in  which  Paine 
declared  decidedly,  tiiat  there  would  be  no  peace*  "  The 
UTir,"  he  observed,  "  must  inevitably  go  on  till  the  go- 
vernment of  England  fell ;  for  it  was  radically  and  syste- 
matically wrong,  and  altogether  incompatible  with  the 
present  state  of  society.'*     I  reminded  him>  that  there 


1^. 


■itt,-,^ 


Mew  TORK. 


w(M  now  a  whig  adnunittration  in  Britain,  who  would  in« 
stittite  a  leibnn  of.  abuses,  cause  the  constitutioiii  to  be 
acted  on  in  its  puritf  ,  and  probably  repair  all  the  mischief 
that  had  been  done  by  the  toiy  administratians.  He  shook 
his  head,  and  said  that  i  he  knew  the  English  >goviem- 
ment  well,  and  was -convinced  that  no  man,  or  set  of  men, 
would  ever  be  able  to  reform  it ;  the  ^stem  waa  wrong, 
and  it  never  would  be  set  right  without  a  rei<rolution, 
whioh.waaas  certain  as  &te,  and  at' no  great  distance  in 
time.  -■'■  K  •■> 

"Finding  we  differed  on  this. point,  L changed  the  sub- 
ject^ and  took  notice  of  a  little  essay  ^which  he  had  written 
on  the  yellow  fever,  wUch  had  beiea  published  in  the 
newi^Nipera,  and  attracted  considierable  attentica^in  the 
sQuthem  states.  He  seemed  to  be  |>leased  with  thia^ .  and» 
i^^ijthe .  OOUW&  ,oC  conv^mation  oiviChe  suJ^yeot^  diaeovered 
a'good  de^ i»fvthat  litepary  vanity. tof^wbieh  1)»  has  been 
acomied ;  bmM » muit  be  aokno<H4cdgBd,  >  that  this  little 
pieice  ^contains  much  valuable  infoifmatipn. «  The  >  arga- 
menls  are  ingenious;;  to  me,  indeed,  quite  convincing  $ 
and  I  ha^e. conversed,  with  some  of  Mr.  i^oae'smost  stre- 
nuous pditieal  q;>ponents,  who .  liave  viewed  them  in  tlie 
same^iig^. 

v^.Paiaef.iS'^a.slender^man,  rather  taii,  and  has  an  uncom- 
monly peiietniting^e.>Hi8^&ce-isiSubjeot  to  a  scorbutic 
eruption,  which  eaccumstancehaapiobably.  contributed  to 
propagnle  ^  report^  that  her  is  habitual^  intemperate  ^ 
hut  i  waa  4nfopned  by  those  whoiElUiow>lHm  well^>  that  it 
is  not^cQiiieotiv  When  ho  meets  withia  person  of  his  own 
mfy>^oi  thiidLing,  hcv  will  fiequentj^^  induigCu  himsdif:  to  a 
late  hour  oyer  t  i^ass^f  toddy^  vbu|  seldom  icarries  \t  to 
excess.    His  .income  is  but  smaU$  but  hfi^isipMn^l^pea*;. 

VOL.    I.  I 


TBAYBLf  IH 


dent  diPBiiiii8tanoct»  having  a  tract  of  land,  for  which  he 
oouki  ohtain  ten  thouaaiid  doUan.  He  is  ptoaaant  m  con- 
fenadon,  and  apcaka  very  much  in  the  ttf le  he  writes, 
^fcute  ckar  and  perspicuous. 

The  fbttowing  tahle  will  afiofdM  idea  of  the  aummer 
wtatber  at  New  York. 


August  4. 

Oesi, 

temperate. 

5. 

Rain, 

do. 

6. 

Clear, 

warm. 

7. 

Do. 

do. 

-      8.' 

Do. 

dbw 

m-.:        •     •■-.'.ft?- 

Do. 

Mt                   la 

Ckntdy, 

.^0.^ 

.^     ..■      ^.  iL^ 

Clear^'  .•.'■    ■  -  t^ij^r-  ■■  ■-  do.  r  •  ?  *i«ii>,ia3«ws^« 

-m 

Cloudy, 

<-.  .  ^^-^mmimt^ltm*- 

^    ^  ■   V     18^: 

Do. 

'    do.^^-:^' •■KlwiKititi 

.14.- 

Dec*  ^ 

dOiar..t#''taili«i^ 

15. 

Showers^ 

'  .:"doir-  n-'^'-^iiMiiiippil 

< »?■■,*:<  ■,!.■  '.•'  ■      ■  ..    ■  lo. 

Hain^ 

8tttoy«^.  '^    ^^4#^ 

*--r-'  ;o^:>     -        17.- 

Ckmdy, 

'  ■•dOi).;-u>     ■  tkilm 

Clc»i 

pteaaaiilu^^.«a;  "«^l^> 

^smmmm^-^  19.' 

Do. 

'  vdo.  fip|Nfll^o«i||Ml|lilr 

<MM*W'-    ^- 

Do. 

do.^'-  -tiigwitis 

:iilW<lriiwit»#^ai. 

Do. 

■wanBUvc... .         ■■•:.,^^' 

im(igmi^mii^^^  ■ 

Qoudy, 

suhayi 

:^s^ilil^^m^^.- 

ilain^  thundor^ 

wann. .  r  iNjaii^ 

^gK0^ym^^^   :  'd4w  ■ 

Bain^   Btioniiyj 

"cold.  ■' ' -//(^ftiiiiHR^. ; 

4^Q* :  '■  :-^   .     ■■  <■  2&k 

Clea»v 

wanii»  ;•  ■           .-uiiifeji- 

■  '':>*v:''.i  ■    ■*"  '-  •    'S6* 

Do^ 

.-•da,  .'.,    ,  .  '•*^^*^' 

^lit'^vts  <^ya^  ofl&die  days  ittlffK^'iirBrt^        I^tidita- 


•^'ii-> 


i^ 


flBW  TOBK. 


€f 


t  miminer 


'<^^'10%: 


*if^r 


CHAPTER  DC. 


Long  Island  sounds — Newport y — Providence, 

Having  judged  it  expedient  to  make  an  expedition 
into  the  New  £ngland  states,  I  took  a  passage  on  board  a 
Providence  packet,  and  we  set  sail,  at  four  o'clock,  on  the 
afternoon  of  die  26th  of  August.  Our  company  consist, 
ed  of  a  gentleman  and  three  ladies  fiom  New  York,  two 
ladies  and  two  children  from  Newport,  a  baptist  preacher, 
a  printer,  and  a  Georgianmi^«  I  found  the  major  to  be 
a  singular  character,  and  shidl  give  hb  history  as  I  learn* 
ed  it.  He  is  a  native  of  Italy,  and  came  to  dus  country 
with  the  French  army,  during  the  American  war.  At 
the  peace  he  remained  in  America,  married  a  wife,  and  tae<> 
took  himself  to  merchandize,  somewhere  about  Philadel- 
phia. From  thence  he  removed  to  Augusta,  in  Georgia, 
where  he  has  accumulated  a  large  fir  '^se ;  liaving  ^ve  or 
six  stores,  and  is  one  of  the  greatest  ^  jtton  dealers  in  all 
that  country.     *&r  • 

We  pix>ceeded  up  East  River  with  a  fine  easy  breeze, 
and  had  a  delightful  view  of  theixmkson  each  side,  .which 
are  well  wooded,  and  adomed  widi  many  elegant  villas,  t)e- 
bngii^  chiefly  to  the  meichantft  of  New  York.  Six 
miles  above  New  ¥oric,  we  passed  HeU  Gate,  a  very  sin. 
gular  passage,  sdxmt  300  or  400  yards  in  Iveadth,  having 
a  ledge  of  stmken  rocks  acsoss  it  m  an  angular  direc- 
tion, which  occai^<xis  many  whiripoob  and  esfm^iift^fm 


ii  TBAVEL8  ON 

in  the  vmter.  These,  at  certain  periods  of  die  tide,  nuke 
a  dreadful  noise,  and  render  a  passage  impracticable ;  but 
at  other  times  the  water  is  smooth,  and  a  passage  easy. 

Soon  after  passing  Hell  Gate,  we  entered  Long  Island 
sound,  and  had  a  fine  view.  Our  company  seemed  so- 
cial, and  disposed  to  be  happy.  The  weather  was  agreeably 
warm,  and  we  enjoyed  ourselves  on  deck,  where  we  had 
a  number  of  fine  songs,  in  which  a  Newport  young  lady 
excelled.  Towards  evening  the  breeze  died  away,  When 
we  were  about  30  miles  fix)m  New  York. 

August  27th.  Early  this  morning  we  took  a  fiiir  wind, 
which  carried  us  along  at  the  rate  of  nine  or  ten  miles  an 
hour.  The  sound  widens  gradually  to  the  middle,  where 
it  is  about  25  miles  broad ;  but,  the  day  being  clear,  we 
had  a  fine  view  on  both  sides  of  it.  On  the  Connecticut  side, 
the  coast  is  lined  with  elegant  towns,  adorned  with  spires, 
and  the  view  is  very  pleasing.  Our  ladies  continued  to 
charm  us  with  their  songs,  and  the  major  and  I  were  much 
diverted  by  a  singular  courtship,  in  which  the  chief  agent 
was  a  booki 

We  observed,  that  our  printer  paid  a  good  deal  of  atten- 
tion to  the  Newport  yoimg  lady,  the  sweet  singer.  Tak- 
ing advantage  of  her  taste  for  poetry  and  music,  he  pro- 
duced his  book,  and  read  a  sentimental  effusion  to  the 
lady ;  and,  while  she  was  expressing  her  approbation,  he 
let  his  hsoid  touch  her's,  as  if  by  accident  They  turned 
over  to  another  piece,  and  the  lady  read  on,  till  site  came 
to  a  passage  with  which  she  seemed  to  be  quite  delig^ed. 
<'  Is'nt  that  beautiful,"  said  the  gentleman,  laying  his  hand 
gently  upon  her's.  ^*  Beautiful,  indeed,^'  exclaimed  the 
la4y*  >  '*  I'll  shoVir  you  something,"  said  he,  '*  still  more 
forcible  upon  the  same  subject:  I  beg  you'll  be  seated, 


LONG  IBLAHB  lOUND. 


M 


ma'am."  The  lady  was  seated.  He  delivered  the  book 
with  one  hand,  and,  laying  hold  of  her's  with  the  other, 
sat  down  beside  her.-^She  read  on.  *'  This  is  really 
beautiful,"  said  she.  **  Most  beautiful,  indeed,'*  said  he, 
and  seized  this  opportunity  to  put  one  hand  gently  round 
her  waist,  while  he  helped  her  to  hold  the  book  with  the 
other.  Thus  they  went  on  from  piece  to  piece,  and  from 
sentiment  to  sentiment,  to  the  great  vexation  of  the  ma- 
jor,  who  was  quite  chagrined,  that  the  printer  should  en- 
gross the  lady  wholly  to  himself,  and  deprive  the  company 
of  her  agreeable  songs  and  conversation. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  approached  the 
head  of  the  sound ;  where,  being  near  the  Connecticut  side, 
we  had  a  fine  view  of  New  London,  appropriately  situated 
on  a  river  called  the  Thames.  Nearly  opposite  to  New 
London^  we  passed  between  two  very  small  islands,  within 
a  few  yards  of  each  other,  and  entered  a  curious  passage, 
called  the  Race,  being  the  outlet  of  the  sound.  There  is 
a  chtiin  of  islands,  which  runs  across  this  outlet  in  an  an-^ 
gular  direction,  and  they  consequently  confine  the  water 
into  narrow  channels,  so  that  the  tide,  at  ebbing  and  flow- 
ing, runs  with  great  violence.  We  passed  it  with  a  light 
breeze,,  and  the  current  against  us^  and  consequently  we 
made  but  little  progress ;  but  we  got  out  of  it,  and  all 
danger,  before  dark,  and  proceeded  with  a  light  breeze 
to  Newport;  now  about  30  miles  distant.  On  our  arrival 
at  the  entrance  of  Narraganset  bay,  I  observed  a  great 
quantity  of  shippings  principally  small  craft,  and  was  anx- 
ious to  see  this  inlet,  being  esteemed  one  of  the  best  in 
America;  but  it  was  now  11  o'clock,  and  too  dark  to 
make  observations,  so  I  retired  to  bed;  and  in  tjie  mora* 
ing,  found  the  vessel  at  the  wharf  in  Ne^vport. 


■■j^> 


.>v.<-. 


70 


TBAVBLt  IV 


Niwpo&T  ii  skualed  on  the  south- west  point  of  Rhode 
Island,  in  latitude  41°  29^.  It  extends  about  a  mile  fipom 
north  to  south,  along  Narraganaet  bay,  and  is  about  one 
third  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  rising,  as  it  proceeds  from  the 
ivater,  by  a  considerable  ascent.  The  streets  cross  one 
another  at  right  angles,  and  are  all  well  paved.  The  num* 
ber  of  inhabitants,  by  the  census  of  1800,  was  6739,  and 
the  number  of  houses  is  about  1100,  chiefly  built  of 
wood,  and  pointed  white.  The  public  buildings  are  a 
State-House,  Academy,  Public  Libnuy,  four  baptist 
churches,  two  for  congregationalists,  and  one  each  for 
episcopalians,  quakers,  Moravians,  and  Jews. 

The  situation  of  this  city  is  beautiful,  and  the  salubrity 
of  the  climate  is  proverbial,  in  consequence  of  which  it 
becomes  a  great  resort  for  strangers,  particularly  from  the 
southern  states,  during  the  summer  season.  It  is  also 
noted  for  the  excellent  supply  of  provisions  in  its  market, 
particulairly  of  fish,  of  which  there  is  said  to  be  50  or  60 
different  kinds.  The  packets  which  ply  between  this  place 
and  New  York,  and  Providence,  are  of  great  service  to 
the  city,  and  to  the  public.  They  are  generally  under 
excellent  regulations,  and  afford  better  accommodations 
and  travelling  at  a  cheaper  rate  than  is  to  be  found  in 
most  places  of  the  world.  The  distance  from  hence  to 
New  York  is  about  200  miles,  which  we  sailed  in  little 
more  than  30  hours ;  and  the  fare,  including  bed  and  pro- 
visions, was  only  nine  dollars.  From  hence  to  Providence, 
30  miles,  it  is  one  dollar. 

Newport  is  a  favourable  situation  for  commerce,  and 
hss  one  of  the  most  safb  and  commodious  harbours  in  the 
worid.  On  the  opposite  side  (^  the  harbour  is  Goat  Isl- 
ioid,  on  which  there  is  a  fort  and  military  station.    The 


BItODft  I8LAMt>. 


inde  of  Newport  b  principally  m  diipping;  and  there  is 
a  manuiactoiy  of  cotton,  and  one  of  dude,  Ixith  of  which 
are  said  to  be  in  a  thriving  state.  >  v  mmm 

I  took  a  walk  round  the  town  with  the  major,  who  was 
well  acquainted  with  it;  and  from  the  heights  above  it  we 
had  some  line  views.  After  breakiast,  wc  went  on  bonrd 
the  packet  for  Providence. 

At  half  past  9  o'clock  we  got  under  weigh,  but  the  wind 
being  right  ahead,  we  made  little  progress.  The  day  how* 
ever  was  fine,  and  the  company  agreeable;  and,  being  in 
no  particular  hurry,  we  enjoyed  ourselves  very  much,  sail- 
ing up  thb  delightful  bay.  We  had  all  our  former  com- 
pany, except  one  of  the  ladies  of  Newport  and' her  chil«* 
dren.  The  other  had  also  intended  to  stop  at  Newport ; 
but  our  printer  had  exerted  his  eloquence  so  efiectually  as 
to  induce  her  to  go  to  Providence,  to  see  a  friend,  with 
whom  she  was  to  live  during  commencement.  Having 
heard  this  term  frequently  made  use  of,  I  inquired  into  the 
meaning  of  it ;  and  was  informed  that  it  b  a  public  day,  held 
at  college,  previous  to  the  vacation,  on  which  the  students 
deliver  their  orations  and  receive  their  degrees ;  and  it  con« 
chides  with  a  ball,  to  which  all  the  young  ladies,  for  many 
miles  round,  are  invited. 

After  piQceeding  a  few  miles,  I  found  we  had  a  states 
room  futt  of  ladies  in  addition  to  our  former  company.. 
One  of  them  came  out  to  take  the  air.  She  was  a  tskl 
elegant  giri>  about  16  years  of  age,  with  a  complexion  and 
features  uncommonly  beautiful.  The  major  and  I  guesS' 
ed  that  she  would  immediately  attract  our  printer's  notice* 
We  ^etsed  right,  for  wlule  we  were  yet  speaking,  we  s^ 
him  |>ull  out  his  book,  and  make  up  to  her.  She  was 
ttanding  beside  the  object  of  his  fintip4«4>  whom  faenotir 


■4 


7fi 


TRAVELS   IN 


* 


turned  his  back  upon;  andv under  pretence  of  diowing 
the  fine  sentimental  pieces  in  the  ^Ar,  went  through  the 
whole  ceremony  of  touching  hands,  and  so  forth.  Our 
major  was  astonished,  and  wondered  what  could  be  about 
the  man  that  he  charmed  the  ladies  so,  for  he  was  by  no 
means  handsome.  One  of  our  company,  remarked  that 
there  was  an  herb  in  nature,  called  valerir"^  which  had 
the  remarkable  quality  of  charming  the  feline  tribe ;  and 
perhaps  there  might  be  some  herb  which  produced  a  simi- 
lar effect  upon  young  women,  and  that  (he  printer  must 
be  in  possession  of  it ;  for  he  could  account  for  his  re- 
markable success  in  no  other  way.  The  major  swore  (he 
was  a  sad  swearer)  that  thb  must  be  the  true  solution)  and 
wondered  if  any  such  herbs  were  to  be  found  in  Georgia, 
as  he  would  purchase  them  at  any  expence.  But  it  ap- 
peared that  this  theory  could  not  be  altogether  correct,  for 
a  small  quantity  of  valerian  will  charm  as  many  cats  as  a 
room  will  hdd,  whereas  it  appeared  the  printer  could  only 
charm  one  young  lady  at  a  time^  The  Newport  lady,  per- 
ceiving his.  attention  to.  the  stranger,  withdrew  from.  Imii, 
and  we  enjc^ed  part  of.  her  agreeable  couversation,  during 
the  remainder  of  the  passage.  He  was  but  short-sighted 
in  Ihe  exchange ;  for  this  lady,  though  not  so  beautiful  as 
the  other,  had  a  great  detf  more  animation,  which  render- 
ed her  more  interesting;  and  she  was  possessed  of  a  great 
deal  of  good  sense.  We  had  a  .number  of  fine  songs  and 
stc^ies,  and  the  day  passed,  away  most  agreeably.  i 

.i  Narraganset  bay,  up  which  we  sailed,  is  33  miles  in 
length,  from  south  to  north,  and,  towards  Newport,  about 
12  miles  in  breadth,  including  the  islands  which!  it ;.e:mbo- 
soms,  of  which  the  principal  are,iUiode  Island,  Ca^io^euty 
Prudence,  Patijsnce,  Hope,  Dyer'%  and  Hog  IsUund.    It 


9B0DS  IStAHDr 


73 


i«Ddveft  the  waters  of  Providence,  Taunton,  ai^  Patuxet 
rivers;  and  contmns  five  harbours,  beudes  those  of  New^ 
port  and  Providence.  Its  toiks  are  clad  with  aetdements^ 
and  theie  are  a  number  of  pretty  little  towns,  the  view  of 
which,  fit)m  the  water,  has  a  fine  effect.         _i■mi.i^t7fiwl^■ 

At  6  o^clock  we  reached  Providence,  where  we  saw  a 
good  deal  of  shipping,  and  I  was  suq)ri8ed  to  find  a  ves* 
k\  there  of  upwstfds  of  900  tons  burden.  I  was  informed 
^at'she  was  in  the  East  India  trade,  of  which  there  is  a 
considerable  share  at  this  port^  and  that  there  would  be  a 
sale  of  India  goods  next  day.  ''->  *'    rh  nn  .  .  ■•>    >' 

The  major,  who  h^  often  travelled  this  way^  conducted 
me  to  a  boarding-house^  where  having  engi^ed  lodgings, 
we  went' out  to  take  a  view  of  the  town,  with  which  he 
wiB  well  acqusdnted;  The  groimd  rises  to  a  cossiderabto 
elevation  above  the :  town,  fix>m  whence  We  had  a  fine  view; 
and  we  returned  to  bur  lodgings  highly  pleased  withl^ 
ekcursicMns  ktf  this  day;  •         ''f<f.  e^^)on<(t  'f?*:'M->  v- '^'^  t  /*^ . 

ipRoviDbKcfE  is  beautiflilly'  situated'  on  the  head  of 
NariragaRset  bay,  and  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the 
l^ovidente  river,  *  over  which  there  is  a  good  bridge, 
widi  a ,  draw  in  lit^  to  •  allow  vessels  to  pass.  The  west 
j^de  of  the  town  is  low^  but  the  east  side  rises,  by  a  rapid 
ascent,  to  a  con^ders^ble  devati^.  The  number  of  inha- 
bitants, in  1800,  was  7614,  and  they  are  rapidly  increas- 
ing^. The  public  buildings  are,  a  court-house,  market- 
house,  a  public  school-house,  a  baptist  meeting-hotkse, 
a  quaker  meeting-house,  and  three  congregational  church- 
es. -  There  is  an  extensive  college  situated  on  the  hill,  and 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  town^  bay,  shipping,  and 
country  formany  mUes  round.  The  building  is  of  brick, 
♦*  •By  the  census  of  1810,  they  arc  10,07 1. 


ft 


0 

iiiAlmi  iir 


uriA  a  slated  rodf,  150  feet  long^  46  wide,  and  four  sto. 
lies  liigh;  wd  ocmtainfli  lodgkigv  for  upwards  of  lOQ  slu- 
detitsa  it  has  a  valuable  philosoplacal  appovalus,  and  a 
libraty  cointaining  npwmrds  of  30CX>  volumes. 

Providence  had  a  pretty  extensive  ahi]4>ii^  trade,  and 
several  manu&ctories  are  established  in  the  town  and 
neighbouriiood,  which  are  said  to  be  in  a  thriving  ^tate. 
'Being  now  about  to  leave  this  Uttle  interesting  state,  I 
shidl  devote  a  chapter  exclusively  to  a  geographical  des- 
cription of  it,  which  plan  I  intend  to  follow  in  the  course  of 
my  travels.  For  the  necessary  information  on  ihis  branch^ 
as  wen  as  the  description  of  cities,  towns,  and  rivers,  I 
nmst  be  indebted,  in  a  great  measure,  to  the  researches 
of  tikrae  who  have  gone  before  me;  but  I  shall  arrange 
tfar  subject  on  a  new  plan,  which  may  adms^  of  conside- 
rable  variety,  and  have  the  beneficial  effect  of  rattUring  my 
oiWQ  judgment  on  American  ge(^;raphy. 

To  American  manners  and  educatidn  I  shall  psKf  a  litde 
txtra  attention,  because  Ivbegin  to  find  thal4  haiw  been 
labouring  under  considdrahte  prgudioes  ooncenang  diem. 
it  is  very  common  for  the  natives  of  Britain  to  set  up 
thdr  ovm  coui^  as  the  model  of  all^perfectioii,  and  to 
doubt  die  existence  of  equid  advantages  any  where  else, 
.ond  to  no  couhtry  has  diat  doubt  been  more  extended 
:dian  to  the  United  Stat^  of  America.  It  is  reaUy  aur* 
prising  to  see^  that,  aotmthstanding  the  great  iittercourae 
between  the  two  countries,  there  should  be  so  much  igno- 
rance, or  rather  misinformation,  in  Britain,  regarding  Ame- 
rica; and  it  is  to  this  circumstance  that  I  attribute  my 
own  prejudices,  for  as  to  what  are  called  natural  prejudi- 
ces, I  disclaim  them.  I  have  no  wish  to  see  tilings  other- 
wise than  at  they  are:  and  I  am  very  glad  to  observe 


m. 


tint  tkis  pdopie  bnye  a  potiah  of  imuuicrs^  and  q;>eak  a 
s^k  of  toguige, ,  wluch  must  be  the  i«;sult  of  eduGa|*.am 
at  least  eqpxA^ito  what  exista  in  Britain.  And:  this  does  not 
appear  to  be  confined  to  the  aea-poft  towns :  the  country^ 
in  diia  quarter^  is  thickly  Killed  with  a  civilized^  industri- 
oua  people. 


i-  i^i^pf^'^^i-il^       'vu. 


■mm,,  mm  ?*  .ajyrtii  .-iq*,  niw  ''?1  •  'ur 


u: 


'st*mtJr, 


■4- 


ipinvt-* 


r=t^  .*'?' 


M«M,lii-;.^.s#-i:'    ,: 


*4 


hiM^' 


7f 


HKODB  IftLANIK' 


4ilfi. 


ft:- 

...*.AV> 


M.'^      ^ 


I'l 


■■,'i*  T  -  *  '-Vi:     ■■■'  ■  •■...■.■. 

CHAPTER  X. 

*.vj*t'     .     ■>  -  Rhode  Island,  ■ 

Rhode  ISLAND  is  situated  between  41°  22'  and  42° 
north  latitude,  and  5°  and  5°  50'  east  longitude^,  being 
45  miles  in  length,  and  43  in  breadth,  and  contains  1548 
square  miles,  or  990,720  acres, 

ifcv  The  face,,  of  the  country  is  agreeably  uneven,,  some 
places  being, ;shUly,  but  not  mountmnous. :  Nanaganset, 
already  mentioned^  is  the  principal  bay.  The  rivers  all 
iflowinto,  this  bay,  and  have  been  already  noticed. 

^  Iron  ore  is  found  in  great  plenty,  and  the  state  abounds 
indth  limestone  and  insffble.    Some  copper  ore  and  jbad- 

vitone  have  also  been  found;  and  there  are  several  mineral 
springs,  bu|  of  no  great  importance. 

t»  Th(&  soil  is  various,  and  a  gr^t  part  of  it  good,  though 
blotter  adapted  for  grazing  than  for  grain. 
.  .The  cUmate.  is  salubrious  and  healthy ;  but  the  winters 
sure  sometimes  long  and  severe,  commencing  in  Nqvemher, 
and  ending  iii  March*  or  April,  There  is  a  very  short 
^ring,.  but  the  summer  and  autumn  are  delightful.  Vol- 
ney  remarks  on  diis  subject^.  ^.*  Were  I  obliged  to  select 

*  I  have  adopted  the  American  mode  of  making  Washington  the 
first  meridian.  It  accords  best  with  the  map,  and  is  calculated  to 
g;lye  a  better  idea  of  the  relative  situatimi  of  the  different  places  in 
the  country  than  the  meridian  of  London. 


imaDB  ISLAHD^t 


97 


Ae  most  fevourable  spot  in  America  as  the  place  of  my 
abode,  my  choice  would  M  upon  the  southern  poinlof 


,»^, 


Rhode  Islaiid; 

The  first  setdement  was  commenced  in  the  yCar  1636,' 
by  Roger  Williams,  a  banished  clergyman  fiom  Ma^- 
ohuaetts ;  and  the  state  was  chiefly  peopled  by  emigra- 
tions from  that  country.  In  1663,  a  charter  was  obtained 
fix>m  Chaiies  II,  which  is  the  basb  of  the  present  consti- 
tution. The  country  suffered  greatly  during  the  revolu- 
tionary war;  but  it  is  now  in  a  thriving  state,  increaang 
in  population  and  wealth.  It  sends  two  senators  and  two 
representatives  to  congress*. 

The  state  is  divided  into  five  cojiindes  and  thirty  town- 
^ps,  and  the  inhabitants  amount  to  69,123t>  inclu<Hng 
380  slaves,  being  about  45  to  the  square  mile.  r 

The  country  id  well  improved,  abounding  with  towns, 
villages,  and  fiurm-houses.  The  chief  towns  are  Provi- 
dence and  Newport,  already  mentioned.  The  others  are 
South  Kingston,  ^tuated  on  the  Ivest  side  of  Narragantet 
Bay,  nearly  opposite  Newport,  and  contains  3000  inhabi- 
tants. Bristol  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bay,  about  half 
way  between  Providence  and  Newport,  and  contains  1678 
inhabitants.  It  has  a  little  shipping  trade,  f^arr&n  is  a 
flourishing  litde  town,  cont^ning  about  1600  inhabitants. 
It  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  on  the  Warren  River, 
and  carries  oh  a  brisk  coasting  and  foreign  trade.  Little 
ComptoHy  East  Greenwich,  and  Compton,  are  also  growing 


*  Representatives  are  sent  to  congress  according  to  the  popular 
tioii,  one  for  every  S3,000<    Each  state  sends  two  senators. 

t(The-ntBnber  of  inhabitants  is  by  the  census  of  ISOQj  nt^l^^ss 
svhercOftherwise  expressed. 


W  BHOOB  mamm.- 

townsk  The  state  b  aupfJied  with  good  foads  and 
hndgea,  some  of  which  have  been  constructted  on  an  m>. 
genious  plan,  and  at  groat  expence.  No  Canals  ha!vb  yet 
been  mode,  but  aeveral  aie  projected. 

The  faru#aie  generally  well  cultivated,  and  produce 
Indian  com,  rye,  barley,  oats,  wheat  (though  not  enough 
for  home  consumption),  fruits  in  great  abundance,  and 
culinaiy  vegetables.  Butter,  cheese,  and  cyder  are  mide 
in  gfeat  quantity,  and  of  a  superior  quality. 
'The  manufiietures  are  cotton  and  linen  goods,  bar  and 
sheet  iron,  steel,  nails,  anchors  and  other  iron  wori[:  fiar 
shipping,  sul-cloth^  paper,  rum,  &c.  The  cotton  manu* 
&cture  is  extending  V  and  I  wae  informed  that  some  of 
those  engaged  in  it  were  doing  well ;  but  h  is  yet  in  its 
infimcy,  and,,  being  subject  to  a  competition  with  the  or- 
ganized manu&ctures  of  Britain,  it  must  be  attended  with 
a  eonaoderable  degree  of  inconvenience,  and  perhaps  some 
risk. 

Hiis  state  is  very  iavOurably  situated  for  commerce,  of 
whieh-  it  has  a  large  share.  The  exports  are  grain,  fiax« 
seed,  lumber^  horses,  catde,  beef,  pork,  fish,  poultry, 
onions,  butter,  cheese,  spirits,  and  cotton  and  linen  goods. 
The  value  of  exports  is  about  1,000,000  dollars  anUjUa^y. 
The  imports  are  European  and  India  manu&cturea,  West 
India  produce,  and  logwood. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  country  are  generally  proprietors 
of  the  farms  they  cultivate,  £md,  having  no  landlord  to  make 
their  boo  to,  nor  rent  to  pay,  they  must  be  independent. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  towns  are  merchants,  manu&cturers, 
mechanics,  seamen,  and  fishermen.  The  limds  a^  not 
entailed,  and  hence  there  is  no  aristocracy ;  but  indepen- 
dence is  easily  attained  by  labour.    There  is  no  distinc* 


Momom  itLjjn. 


m? 


tion  mads  on  account  of  religious  opinions.;  but  cveiy 
man  wonhipavGockin  any^  way  his  eonscienoe  dictates, 
without  interfering  'With  his  civil  rights.  There  are  seve- 
ral benevolent  and  useful  societies  in  the  state,  among 
which  may  be  noticed  one  fior  the  ^^?abolitioAf  the  slave- 
trade,  and  for  the  improvement  of  the  African  race.*'  The 
state  of  education  is  said  to  be  conaderab^  behind  that 
of  the  other  New  England  states,  but  is  improving.  The 
chief  seminaiy  \s  the  college  at  Providaioe^  ahtady  akiw 
tijonedy  and  there  is  an  academy  at  Newport  under  good 
regulatjioRSy  JbfMdiea  1^^  senunarico  throughout  the 
stale*  V    ■-••■•:<■  ^'^ -i^' -•-:■       ,         ■  J' ^ '■ '^'>^- ■.. .  ,   ,^,;, 

•  '^le  state  legislature  consists  of  a  gcrreHixv^  depu^  fpi* 
vemor,  ten  senators,  and  a  representative  fiN>m  each  town- 
sl^p.  They  arendiosen  by  the  people  twke  every  year, 
andttti^  hold  two  sessions  annvally. 


m 


TtAVBLB  Uf   il 


A'"' 


•t  ."•P^    ri*  v,iV*»^?''' 


■'.t- 


CHAPTER  XI,  ^W#d^ 


fi  I* 


m^- 


Provukncef — Dedhaniy — Boston. 

L  MERE  is  a  rule  in  travelling  this  road,  that  if,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  packet,  there  are  three  passeingersr  goiiig''  on 
to  Boston,  the '  stage  is  bouiid  t6  go  with  them  at  aiiy 
hour.  There  were  four  of  us  who  iigreed  to  go  a|  5 
o'clock  ih  the  morning^  and  we  cdfistituted  the  ihajor 
master  of  the  <ieremoriies,  to  make  the  necessary  armnge- 
ment  with  the  landlord.  We  accordingly  rose  very  eairiy 
to'  take  our  places,  but,  lo!  after  waiting  %  full  half  hourj 
there  was  no  stage  to  be  seen,  and  the  major  began  to  sus- 
pect the  landlord  of  insincerity.  By-and-by  he  lost  all 
patience,  and  began  to  swear  most  bitteriy.  He^went  in 
search  of  the  landlord,  but  there  ^vas  no  landlord  to  be 
seen  J  iior,  indeed,  any  of  the  domestics.  However,  it 
was  impos»bIe  that  they  could  be  long  proof  agmnst  the 
effect  of  the  major's  lungs,  for  he  bellowed  forth  the  most 
dreadful  oaths  and  imprecations  that  I  ever  heard,^  and 
soon  alarmed  the  servants,  but  they  could  not  satisfy  the 
niafor,  who 

.^..  *^  Roar'd  a  horrid  murder  shout,   -  _ 

In  dreadful  desperation'* 

for  the  landlord,  who  at  last  made  his  appearance,  and  the 
major,  with  a  thundering  inenace,  demanded  where  the 
sta^  was.    He  rubbed  his  eyes,  and  was  going  to  make 


MA88A0HU88TTS.         ^  -910' 

i\  reply,  but  he  hud  not  time,  for^the  \pLjot  held  forth 
fully  half  an  hour  in  a  strain  of  eloquence,  peculiai^  to 
gentlemen  of  the  sea  or  the  sword,  and  whicl^  could 
hardly  find  a  parallel  in  the  curses  wherewithal  Dr.  Slop 
cursed  Obadiah,  on  the  day  in  which  l^  tied  tejuiots  on 
his  instrument  bag.  At  last  the  storm  abated  Wttle,  and 
the  landlord  got  leave  to  speak ;  but  he^only  |Plde  matters 
worse,  for  he  blundered  out  that  the  stage  would  iiot  go 
befisre  8  o'clock.  The  landlord  had,  in  truth,  attempted 
to  jockey  us.  An  additional  company  was  to  go  at  8 
o'clock,  and  he  and  the  stage-owner,  between  whom  there 
was  a  collusion,  thought  that,  notwithstanding  the  agree- 
ment with  us,  the  stage  could  easily  acoonunodate  both ; 
and  a  few  hours,  in  point  of^  time,  was  immaterial.  But 
oh  for  the  pencil  of  a  Hogarth  to  delineate  the  features  of 
the  major,  When  this  fact  came  out !  Mercy  on  us !  how 
he  did  fume  and  rage,  and  stamp  and  curs6 !  At  last  he 
made  a  spring  toward  the  landlord,  and^  ^shaking  his'canc 
over  his  head,  swore  if  he  did  not  bring  the  stage  immedi- 
ately,  he  would  have  satis&ction  out  of  his  bones.  The 
landlord  got  alarmed,  and  ran  as  if  the  devil  had  been  in 
pursuit  of  him,  and  the  major,  having  spent  his  rage, 
stood  mute.  The  landlord  had  not  been  long  gone,  before 
a  gentleman  eame  up  to  the  house,  and  asked  if  we  were 
going  to  Boston,  and,  on  being  answered  in  the  affirma- 
tive, he  told  us  that  he  had  a  new  stage,  which  he  would 
start  instantly,  provided  there  were  three  passengers.  This 
was  most  delightflil  news  for  the  major,  who  told  him  we 
would  go,  provided  the  stage  was  brought  in  ten  minutes, 
so  as  to  disappoint  the  landlord.  An  elegant  new  stage^ 
with  good  horses,  dlew  up  before  the  door  in  li  few  mi« 
nutes,  and,  having  paid  a  very  moderate  bill  to  the  landlady^ 

VOL.  1.  L  ' 


'It9$  ^  TRAYBU  IN  •. 

who,  the  majq^^served,  was  the  better  man  qf  t/te  two^ 
we  got  j||to  the  carnage.  While  we  were  seating  our. 
8etves,^p  came  the  landlord  with  the  other  stage,  and  the 
major  detained  ais  a  few  minutes  to  get  a  parting  word 
with  l^QK  '*  Now,  you  rascal/'  says  he,  '*you  thought 
to  play  fpfaikee  trick  upon  me;  but  this  is  diamond 
cut  diam«A  for  you  1'*    The  landlord  began  to  enter  a 

^complaint  against  us  for  leaving  the  stage,  but  he  was 
stopped  stiort  by  the  major,  who  exclaimed,  '*  Qh!  you 

.rascal,  I  delight  in  disappointing  you.  I  would  not  for  a 
thousand — ay,  not  for  ten  thousand  dollars,  have  wanted 
this  satisfaction.  I  know  money  will  procure  any  thing, 
and  I  have  got  more  than  ever  you  saw,  you  vagabond." 
So  saying,  he  ordered  the  df iver  to  proceed. 

We  travelled  but  slowly,  owing  to  the  road  being  very 
bad.  We  learned  that  the  people  of  Massachusetts  had 
offered  to  ext£nd  the  turnpike  to  Providence,  but  the  peo- 
fUe  of  this  a^e  would  not  agree  to  it,  and  thus  the  road 

•^remained  almost  impassable.  The  morning  was  hazy,  so 
that  we  could  see  but  little  of  the  country ;  but  it  appear- 
ed to  be  indifferently  cultivated.  We  saw  great  quanti- 
ties of  fruit  by  the  way  side,  and  several  waggons,  loaded 
with  apples,  were  on  their  way  to  Providence. 

The  salutation  which  the  major  gave  the  landlord  occa- 
sioned a  good  deal  of  meniment,  and  one  of  our  company 
observed,  that  he  could  put  him  upon  a  plan  of  swearing 
jby  rule,  by  which  means  he  could  save  him  a  great  deal 
of  trouble,  and  wear  and  tear  of  conscience,  in  coinings 
oaths.  He  accordingly  produced  the  anathema  of  £r- 
nulphus,  recorded  in  the  Life  and  Opinions  of  Tristram 
Shandy,  which  he  read  aloud,  to  the  great  astonishment  of 
^  major,  and  diversion  of  the  company^ 


llASSAenUBBTTfl. 


83 


About  four  mikfl  from  Providence,  we  passed  Fstucket 
river,  and  entered  into  the  state  of  Massachusetts.  Here 
there  are  very  handsome  falls,  and  a  little  town  called  Pa- 
tucket,  in  which  there  is  a  thriving  mmiufactory  of  cotton 
yam  and'  goods.  The  spinning  works  are  said  to  be  on 
the  most  approved  principle,  and  there  are  several  looms 
going  by  machinery. 

We  were  informed  that  the  cotton  trade  had  been  intro- 
duced here  by  a  gentleman  from  England,  a  pupil  of  Ark- 
wright,  who  had  been  very  successful ;  that  other  people 
were  following  his  example,  and  that  this  branch  was  like- 
ly to  increase,  to  a  great  extent,  in  this  district.  I  doubt- 
ed the  power  of  the  people  here  to  become  competitors 
with  the  manufacturers  of  Engkuid ;  but  I  learned  that  they 
confine  themselves  pretty  much  to  coarse  goods,  and  ard- 
cles  of  die  first  necessity }  and  on  turning  the  whole  infor- 
mation,  reladve  to  the  subject^  in  my  mmd,  I  found  that 
they  had  such  a  number  of  circuVnstances  in  their  fevotlr, 
as  were  sufficient  to  balance,  if  not  to  overcome,  the  disad- 
vantages^ The  principal  disadvantage  is  the  tugh  wages 
which  must  be  paid  to  the  workmen,  and  it  is  supposed 
that  the  people  have  a  predilection  for  agriculture,  which 
hsts  a  tendency  to  .prevent  them  from  settling  at  sedentary 
emfd03rments.  This  last  circumstance  is  the  popular  opi- 
nion in  BntBiti,  and  I  was  impressed  with  its  reality  my- 
self; but  af^  looking  round  me  in  this  country,  I  rather 
think  that  it  is^more  specious  than  solid,  for  I  find  there  is 
no  want  of  masons,  carpenters,  smiths,  tanners,  shoema- 
kers, hatters,  taylors,  and  other  mechanics,  none  of  which 
are  agricultural  employments.  All  these  and  other 
branches  are  organized  and  practised  with  persevering  in> 
dustry,  because  the  profits  resulting  firom  them  are  equal 


*-tii 


f 


84 


^THATBLt  IM 


'A 


to  thoM  remiltiiig  finom  ag;ricultiire;  and  other  branches 
will  be  subject  to  the  same  nile.  In  every  community 
there  are  a  great  number  of  the  membera  who  are  better 
adapted  for  labour  in  the  house  than  in  the  field»  and  the 
force  of  this  remark  b  peculiarly  applicable  to  the  cotton 
trade,  in  which  a  large  portion  of  the  labour  is  performed 
by  machinery,  and  the  remainder  principaMy  by.  women 
and  diildren.  But  all  labour  b  better  paid  for  in  Ame. 
rica  tlian  in  Britain.  The  proportion  b  probably  two  to 
onei  and  if  the  cotton  trade  will  afford  this  advance  to  the 
labourers,  it  will  bear  a  competition  with  similar  manufac- 
tures of  Britain,  and  prosper-*— not  else* 

The  most  striking  circumstance  in  favour  of  the  cotton 
manufacturers  b  the  cheapness  of  the  raw  material,  which 
is  the  produce  of  the  United  States.  They  manufacture  here 
principally  upland  cotton,  and  the  price,  including  canriage 
to  thb  place,  b  about  2^  cents  per  pound* ;  being  about 
1$  cents  lower  than  they  can  possibly  have  it  in  Bri- 
tiun.  The  next  circumstance  b.the  heavy  charges  to 
which  Pritish  manu&ctured  goods  are  subject  before  they 
come  into  the  American  market.  These  may  be  reckon> 
ed  at  least  equal  to  45  per  cent. :  namely,  carriage,  insur- 
ance, and  shipping  charges  5  per  cent.,  American  duties 
16i  per  cent.,  importer's  profit  10  per  cents,  American 
merchant's  profit  and  contingencies  14i  per  cent. 

Now,  suppose  100  lbs.  of  cotton  to  be  manu^tured 
into  cloth,  of  a  fabric  that  will  sell  at  aboiH  one  shilling 
sterling  in  Britain,  the  number  of  yards  will  be  about  300; 
and  by  producing  thb  in  the  American  market,  subject  to 
these  different  charges,  it  will  afford  a  data  whereby  we 
may  calculate  the  price  that  can  be  aflbrdedto  the  manu* 
*  It  is  novf  (la  13)  only  13  or  IS  cents. 


6 


\ 


\ 


^ 


^fT 


MAMAOBVSBTTl.  H 

ftotvrer  in  America;  iM  from  thence  we  may  determbe 
the  probnbk  increase  of  the  cotton  manufiK:ture*  It  is  to 
be  observed  that  ^  demand  for  cotton  goods  in  America 
is  immcDie»  and  there  is  no  material  competition  except 
with  British  manu&ctures. 

lOOlbs  of  cotfeun  purchased  in  ihe  southern 
statesof  America,  at  18  cts.,  is  in  sterling  ^41 

Shipping  charges,  freight,  and  merchant's 
profit,  at  3d.  per  pound  1    5 

British  duty  16    8 


Nearly  16d.  per  pound 
300  yds.  of  cloth  at  Is.  per  yd.  is 


^  6  12    8 


£15 


Leaving  for  the  various  branches  of  manu-  r 

facture  .       r  £674 


i4i*i 


.  This  cloth  sent  to  America,  costs  in  Britain  £  15 
Cfaaiges  be£ore  enumerated,  45  per  cent.     £   6  15 


jC21  is 


■^* 


Suppose  the  same  fabric  manu&ctured  in  America. 

The  cotton  costs,  in  the  southern  states,  at  so 

18  cents  per  pound                                  818  •sil 

.  Carriage  and  charges,  at  2  cents  per  pound       2  a^. 

Price  of  raw  material  B  20 

Value  of  simihor  cloth  imported  from  Bri- 
tain ,f  21  i'5,  is  96  57 


•v.»- 


f 


»» 


I 


P 


w 


f 


Leavitig  ibr  the  various  brtaiOM  of  manu-'  i^^ 

•a  '.  'fiictuie^   '      ■  ■•  ■imrHtivyi  :■         ^mm>v    .  j|i76'57  '  ■ 
i5tin?'-i!A:/4  Or  sterling       .•  •?.:.;  •.  --"riv  i._^.i6  .■  4    7 
' :  Being  nearly  double  the  price  paid  to  the  British  manu- 

facturer.  ^^^^--^ 

f  It  will  be  observed  too,  by  this  calculation,  that  the  cot- 
ton is  taken  at  its  extrenie  height,  and  for  evdry  cent  that 
it  falls,  the  propoftional  advantage  to  the  American  manu- 
facturer is  increased;  because  a  great  part  of  the  difference 
consists'  in  duties  and  charges,  which  are  not  materially 
affected  by  the  fidl.  '  "^      t;.^  v    ;  4^  ^?  mm   ^ 

It  is  my  opinion,  upon  the  whole,  that  the  cotton  manu- 
facture will  increase  in  America;  and  that  it  holds  out  a 
very  good  inducement  for  men  of  capital  to  embark  in  it 

We  were  now  in  the  state  of  Massachusetts  and  had  an 
excellent  turnpike  road,  but  being  recently  cut  through 
a  new  country,  we  had  no  great  variety  of  scenery.  The 
face  of  the  country  was  agreeably  uneven,  but  the  land 
rather  poor  and  stony..  Twelve  miles  from  Providence 
we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  colonel  Hatchj,  the  prc^inetor 
of  the  stage^  who  was  along  with  us.  The  house'  is  new 
and  commodious,  and  we  got  an  excellent  break&st, 
charge  50  cents. 

From  hence  we  travelled  22  miles  to  Dedham, ,  The 
country,  from  the  reason  already  stated,  is  but  thinly  settled 
by  tlie  road  side.  The  face  of  the  countzy  is  s^reeably 
uneven,  and  we  had  many  fine  distant  views.  The  road- 
side abounds  with  fruit,  of  which  the  traveller  tnay  gather 
as  much  as  he  pleases.'  Towards  Dedham  the  country 
improves,  and  the  inhabitants  appeared  healthy,  and  in 
comfortable  circumstances. 


I 


MA98A0IIU8STTS. 


«T 


Dedham  is  a;  handsome  little  village,  eleven  miled 
from  Boston,  consisting  of  between  3  and  4Q0  houses, 
and  containing  about  1500  inhabitants.  The  houses  are 
mostly  built  joi  wood,  and  painted  white.  The  public 
buildings  are  a  court-house,  three  congregational  churches, 
and  an  episcopal  church.  There  are  several  grist  and 
saw-mills  in  the  neighbourhood;  and  the  inhabitants 
cany  on  a  considerable  manufacture  of  shoes  and  wire- 
work. 

From  hence  to  Boston,  the  road  goes  through  a  beauti- 
ful country,  abounding  with  villas  and  well-cultivated  farms, 
and  at  a  distance  to  the  eastward  are  high  lands  approach- 
ing nearly  to  mountains.  Wherever  I  turned  my  eyes,  I 
was  delighted  with  the  view;  and  being,  like  the  Vicar  of 
Wakefield,  ^'  an  admirer  of  happy  faces,"  I  was  amply 
gratified  by  the  appearance  of  the  inhabitants,  who  were 
cleanly,  industrious,  and  contented.  The  female  part  of 
the  community,  in  particular,  appeared  to  great  advantage, 
having  a  glow  of  health,  an  air.  of  cheerfulness,  and  a 
cleanliness  of  aspect,  that  I  have  not  seen  surpassed. 

The  country  continued  to  improve  as  we  proceeded  to- 
wards Boston,  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  which 
the  buildings  and  pleasure-grounds  are  uncommonly  ele- 
gant. We  entered  the  town  by  the  curious  passage  called 
the  Neck,  and  drove  up  to  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Chappotin, 
in  Summer-street,  which  we  reached  just  in  time  for  dm. 
ner.  On  entering  the  public  room,  I  found  about  twenty 
gentlemen  at  the  dinner-table,  and  I  seated  myself  beside 
an  elderly  gentleman,  in  a  strange  dress,  with  a  long  beard, 
who  I  afterwards  learned  was  the  Tunisian  ambassador. 
After  dinner,  I  took  a  walk  roundf  the  t9wn  with  the  ms^r 


m 


TBAVSL8  m 


jor,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  it;  called  upon  tny 
fellow-passenger  in  the  Warrington,  Mr.  Ballard,  who  was 
glad  to  see  me;  and  spent  the  evening  at  the  boardmg. 
house,  much  pleased  with  the  excursicms  of  the  day. 


.■Jf.-'A.i.i- 


t^. 


r 


^.  .^^. 


■'  <'>5--,»AiTw;»7,(X.  i  t 


i/WJ'tf ■  s**   J.-.' 


4»'^*-   ^ 


t 


MA!99ACBOBPFTS. 


v«"^i0-i';# 


CHAPTER  Xn. 


JSostan,^—Salem* 

Boston  is  buUt  on  a  peninsula,  at  the  head  of  Mas- 
sachusetts Bay,  m  noith  latitude  42^  23'.  It  is  at  one 
place  two  miles  long,  but  the  broadest  part  is  not  quite  half 
a  mile.  A  great  part  of  the  town  lies  low  along  the  bay; 
but  the  ground  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation  in  th^ 
ndddle,  where  the  State-House  is  built,  which  ^ves  it  a 
veiy  handsome  s^pearance  at  a  distance.  The  totifn  par* 
takes  of  the  nature  of  the  old  towns  in  England^  and  is 
iiregularly  buUt,  many  of  the  streets  being  crooked  and 
narrow;  but  the  more  modern  part  is  regular,  and  ^ 
streets  broad  and  well  paved.  The  streets,  lanes,  and  alleys 
ambunt  to  above  150;  and  there  are  five  public  squares; 
but  none  of  theiUi  are  of  gn^t  extent,  except  the  Maliy 
which  is  a  vei^  elegant  piece  of  pi;blic  ground,  in  front 
of  the  State-House. 

The  number  of  dwelling-houses  is'above  3500,  aiid,  by 
the  censi»  of  1800,  the  inhabitants  were  24,937;  fix>mthe 
increase  that  has  sinde  taken  place,  it  b  presumed  that  the 
number  is  now  upwards  of  30,000*1^.  The  greater  part  of 
the  houses  are  built  of  brick,  dSid  many  of  them  are  spa- 
cious and  elegant. 


•  By  the  census  of  1810  they  vrtre  33,350. 
VOL.  I*  - ^- ■  -  ^:;  ' ■■■^  :.,M 


m 


jj^TRAYBLB  ttti^ 


The  public  buildings  are  the  State-House,  Court-House, 
Jail,  Concert-Hall,  Faneuil-Hall,  Alms^HoUse,  Work- 
House,  and  Bridewell ;  the  Museum,  Library,  Theatre, 
and  nine  congregational,  three  episcopal,  and  two  baptist 
churches,  with  one  each  for  Roman  catholics,  methodists, 
and  universalists.  The  public  buildings  are  in  general 
very  handsome,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  churches  are 
ornamented  with  spires. 

The  markets  of  Boston  are  well  supplied  with  every 
kind  of  country  provisions,  fruit,  and  fish.  The  prices 
are  not  materially  different  from  those  of  New  York. 
Flour  is  generally  a  little  higher;  but  cod-fish,  which  is 
the  universal  Saturday  dinner,  is  lower. 

Boston  is  well  situated  for  foreign  commerce,  of  which 
it  has  a  very  large  share.  The  harbour  is  spacious,  and 
is  capable  of  containing  500  sail  of  vessels.  There  are 
many  whapves.  constructed,  (^  which  the  most  remarkable 
h.Ziong  f^harfy  extending  into  the  bay  upwards  of  1700 
feet.  ^  The  number  of  ves^ls  that  enter  and  clear  out  an- 
nually is  imitiense,  carrying  on  a  trade  to  Europe,  the 
East  and  West  Indies,  and  China,  besides  a  very  exten- 
sive coi^sting  trade.  The  exports  annually  firom  this  port 
probably  amount  to  upwards  of  8,000,000  dollars.  The 
principal  manufactures  are  of  iron,  leather,  paper,  and 
glass,  which  are  brought  to  great  maturity  in  all  the  va- 
rious branches ;  besides  which,  they  have  thriving  manu- 
factories of  hats,  sail-cloth  j  cards,  soap  and  candles,  refined 
sugar,  spermaceti,  ashes,  &c.  There  are  ten  distilleries, 
two  breweries,  eight  sugar-houses,  and  several  rope-walks 
in  and  about  the  town ;  but  one  of  the  most  important 
branches  is  ship-building,  and  the  Bostonians  seem  gene- 
rally more  attached  to  the  shipping  trade  than  any  other 


m 


Wtt'- 


-WT'^"^ 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


9i 


•™' 


bnoich.  There  are  in  Boston  three  incorporated  bonks, 
besides  a  branch  of  the  United  States'  Bank,  whose  jbint 
capitals  amouitt  to  upwards  of  3,000,000  dollars,  and 
there  are  three  or  lour,  insurance-offices,  with  capitals  of 
3  or  400,000  dollars  each.  ^  i 

;, There  are  a  number  of  public  societies  in  Boston^ 
among  which  may  be  mentioned  the:  American  Academy 
of  Arts  and  Sciences,  Massachusetts  Historical  Society, 
Boston  library  Society^,  Agricultural  Society,  Mechanic 
Society,  Marine  Society,  Charitable  Fire  Society,  Humane 
Society,  Medical  Society,  Dispensary,  and  the  Female 
Asylum.  Public  educaUon  is  on  an  excellent  footing. 
There  are  eight  or  nine  pul^c  schools,  supported  at  the 
expence  of  the  town,  which  are  accessible  to  sdl  the  mem- 
bers of  the  community  V  free  of  expence.  They  are .  ma- 
naged  by  a  committee  of  twenty-one  gentlemen,: chosen 
annually,  and  are  under  good  regulations.  Besidei»^  these, 
there  are  a  number  of  private  seminaries,  at  whicfo^ttie 
various  branches  of  education  are  taught;  and,  iqpon  the 
whole,  I  believe  Boston  may  challenge  a  competjjtion  on 
tins  branch  with  any  city  in  Europe,  £dinburgh|(^  Scot4 
land,  perhaps,  excepted.  i-r     < 

The  fruits  of  this  attention  to  the  improvement  of  the 
mind,  and  the  cultivation  of  the  benevolent  affections,  are 
very  apparent  in  the  deportment  of  the  citizens  of  Boston^ 
who  are  intelligent,  sober,  and  industrious ;  and,  though 
nmch  attached  to  the  subject  of  religion,  they  are  mwe 
liberal,  generally  speaking,  than  any-  people  1  have  y«t 
been  amongst.  The  ladies  of  Boston  are  general^  handJ 
some,  with  fine  complexions;    and,  judging  from  the 

•  An  A^ffh^tim  has  since  been  established,  and  is  probably  the 
most  elegant  literary  institution  in  America. 


0  JTRAVBLS  lUm 

yamplr  .which  I  saw,  they  have  a  richneas  of  iatelleot,  and 
H  cheeriuhieas  of  deportment,  that  makes  them  Inity  inte- 
mitiDg,  .  Altogether,  Boston  is  really  a  fine  place.  It 
vm  here  that  the  revolution  originated,  which  terminated 
in  the  independence  of  America;  and  the  town  is  justly 
oelehmted  as  being  the  birth-place  of  that  great  luminary 
in. literature  and  science,  Dr.  Franklin. 
,f  During  my  stay  in  Boston,  which  was  only  a  few  days, 

1  'Wetit  to  a  number  of  the  public  places ;  among  others, 
the  State^ijouse,  from  whence  there  is  a  most  elegant 
view  of  the  town,,  bay,  shipping,  neck,  bridges,  and  the 
whole  countiy  round,  to  the  distance  of  from  twelve  to 
fiibeen  miles,  ip  each  direction,  presenting  most  picturesque 
scenery,  including  a  number  of  elegant  villages.  In  one 
direction,  you  can  see  ^wenty  miles  out  at  sea,  and  in  ano> 
ther,  a  mountain,  said  to  be  distant  «ixty  miles. 

/  The  bridges  of  Boston  merit  particular  attention,  beings 
works  of  great  extent  and  utili^,  and  constructed  at  a  vast 
expenc^i  a  proof  of  the  sagacity  and  persevering  industry 
of  this  people.  West  Boston  Bridge  is  upwards  of  3000 
feet  longy  and  a  causeway  is  conniected  with  it  3000  more, 
connecting  Boston  with  Cambridge,  Chairlea  River 
Bridge  is  1500  feet  long,  and^  Maiden  Bridge  is  upwards 
of  2400  feet  long.  They  sre  aU  built  of  wood,  and  have 
draws  in  the  middle*  The  toll  is  reasonable.  Long 
Wharf  has  already  been  noticed.  The  Museum  contains 
a.  very  good  collection  of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities. 
Tuesday,  September  2d,  at  8  o^dcck  in  the  morning, 
I  set. out  by  the  stage  for  Salem,  distant  about  sevefiteen 
miles.  After  crossing  by  Charles  River  Bridge^  abeady 
noticed,  we  passed  through  Charlestown,  a  handsome  town, 
which  is  only  separated  from  Boston  by  Charles  River. 


m 


« 


It  oontains  about  3000  inhabitants,  and  has  two  places  of 
public  wonhip.  The  United  States  have  a  nsLvy-yvrd  and 
nnrine  hospital  here,  and,  towards  the  west  end  of  the 
town,  dose  by  the  river  side,  is  the  State>Prison,  on  the 
same  ptmoiple  as  those  at  Philadelphia  and  New  York, 
and  mad  to  be  under  excellent  management.  At  the 
north  side  of  the  town  is  Bunker's  Hill,  celebrated  in  the 
history  of  the  American  revolution.  *     ' "  ^ 

Leaving  Charlestown,  and  travelling  little  more  than  a 
mile,  by  the  sea-coast,  we  arrived  at  Mystic  River,  which 
we  passed  by  a  bridge  2420  feet  long,  and  constructed 
upon  the  sanie  principle  as  those  ak^eady  mentioned. 
About  four  miles  fix)m  thence,  we  passed  an  extenave 
swamp,  where  we  were  assailed  by  musquetoes  of  a  very 
large  size.  At  the  farther  end  of  the  swamp  we  passed  a 
floating  bridge,  and  a  litde  after,  ascending  the  bank,  we 
arrived  at  Lynn,  where  ive  stopped  to  change  horses,  at  a 
very  elegant  tavern.  Lynn  is  a  prettj'  little  town,  remaHt- 
able  for  its  extensive  manufacture  of  shoes.  From  thence 
we  travelled  to  Salem,  about  seven  miles,  through  a  very 
rugged,  stony  country,  but  by  an  excellent  turnpike  road, 
made,  I  was  informed,  mostly  by  Irishmen.  I  may  here 
trice  occasion  to  remark^  that  the  Irish  emigrants  are  ex. 
ceedingly  useful  in  this  country,  and  a  great  pordon  of 
the  most  rugged  labour  in  it  is  performed  by  them.  The 
lower  orders  of  the  Irish  are  generally  strong,  robust  men, 
without  money,  and  with  a  very  slender  education.  Hence 
they  are  generally  unfit  for  any  kind  of  mercantile  employ- 
ment, and  those  who  have  not  learned  some  mechanical 
profession  get  employment  in  various  branches  of  labour, 
for  which  they  are  well  adapted;  and,  getting  good  wages, 
they  soon  become  independent  and  happy.     Hence  the 


# 


¥»: 


><r 


iTSAVSLS  IN 


losh  are  ramarkable'lbr  their  attachment  to  the  American 
government,  while  manyiither  foreigners,  partioulaily  those 
engaged  in  commerce^  are  disconitented.and  fretful. 

The  morning  was  damp  and  .hazy,,  so  that  the  view  of 
|he  country  was  not  very  agrfeahle,  an^  it  was  with  regret 
that  I  observed  it  began  to  rain  just  as  I  entered  my  place 
of  destination.  :     i.»js  ,u  v.  .  i.  i?j^ 

Sal£m  is,  next  to  Boston,  tlie  largest  town  in  Massf. 
chusetts,  and  one  of  the  earliest  settled  in  the  state.  I%^is 
situated  on  a  peninsula  formed  by  two  branches  ofvthe 
sea,  called  North  and  South  Rivers,  and  consists  of  about 
1500  houses,  and  contained,  in  1800,  9547  inhabitants. 
The  houses  are  built  partly  of  wood,  and  parUy  of  brick ; 
and  many  of  them,  are  uncommonly  elegant*  The  princi< 
pal  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  five  congregational 
churches,  and  one  each  for  quakers  and  episcopalians.  Sa- 
lem carries  on  a  very  extensive  shipping  trade,  more  bu- 
siness bluing  done  here  in  that  line  than.in;any  town  in  the 
New  England  states,  Boston  excepted.  There  is  a  ship- 
yard in  Salem,  and  a  considerable  manufactoig^  of  ^sail* 
cioth,  A  bank  has  been  long  jestablifihed^  The  inhabit 
tants  are  said  to  be  industrio^s  and  frugali.  and  the  ap^ 
pearance  of  the  town  indicates  a  ponsiderable  accumulation 
of  wealth. 

,  On  my  arrival,  I  went  to  see  the  wliarves  and  shipping, 
which  are  very  extensive.  Salem  is  remarkabl^^as  )being> 
the  residence  of  Mr.  Gray,  reputed  the  greatest  slwfjj'pwner 
in  America,  having  a  vast. number  of  squdre-rigged  vesn 
sels,  many  of  which  are  in  the  India  trade.  One  of  these 
vessels  was  coming  into  port  while  I  stood  on  the.  .wharf, 
and  it  appeared  it  would  be  with  consid^^le  difficulty 
she  would  get  into  the  harbour,  tlie  entrance  being  very 


• 


IK 


MASHACHtJSEttS. 


m 


^^^' 


shallow ;  and  I  was  informed,  that,  ih  consequence  of  thb 
circumstance,  Mr.  Gray  was  about  to  remove  to  Boston. 

On  my  return  to  the  Coffee-House^  I  found  the  follow-  ' 
ing  sentiment  in  one  of  the  Salem  newspapers :  "  There 
is  Kason  to  fear  that  a  peace  will  at  length  be  concluded  ^ 
between  France  and  Britain ;  and  if  that  unfortunately  }x, 
the  case,  the  independence  of  the  latter  is  gone  for  ever, 
and  we  may  soon  look  for  an  attack  upon  the  liberties  of 
America."  In  the  course  of  my  travels  through  the 
United  States,  I  have  frequently  heard  similar  sentiments, 
principally  from  those  professing  the  greatest  regard  for 
Britain ;  but  I  must  say,  that  Aey  appear  to  me  to  be 
very  incorrect.  I  grant  it  is  better  for  Britain,  or  any 
other  nation,  to  continue  in  a  state  of  war,  than  to  make  a 
dishonourable  peace,  or  to  submit  to  have  their  rights  in- 
fringed by  their  neighbours ;  but  the  sentiment  in  question, 
unqualified  as  it  is,  seem.s  to  breathe  a  wish  for  eternal 
war.  It  expressed  a  dread  of  Britain  making  peace  at  ^I, 
and  considers  war  and  independence  so  intimately  allied, 
that  the  one  cannot  be  given  up  without  the  other.  But, 
in  my  opinion,  the  greatest  curse  that  ever  befel  Britain  is 
the  present  war— one  of  the  greatest  blessings  to  that 
country  would  be  an  honourable  and  lasting  peace.  As 
to  the  supposed  attack  upon  the  liberties  of  America,  I 
think  it  proceeds  upon  a  very  incorrect  view  of  the  sub- 
ject, and  %nplies  an  idea  highly  derogatory  to  the  Ameri- 
can character.  It  is  perfectly  obvious  to  me,  from  what 
I  have  seen  in  this  countrv,  that  the  Americans  could 
maintain  their  liberties  against  the  whole  world  combined, 
and  no  single  nation,  however  powerful,  would  be  mad 
enough  to  make*  an  attack,  which  would  infallibly  end  in 
disaster  and  disgrace.     America  contains  upwards  of  six 


%' 


0k  ,,  TB^^^mM  iK^ 

jsSQkios^.f3l^free  piopie^  aiM)»  if  invaded,  couldy  at  a  short 
notice,  turn  out  a  millioii  of  fightinfr  men.  This  &ct  is 
weUi  known  in  Europe,  and  would,  of  coune,  enter  into 
the  calculation  of  any  general  who  would  plan  an  attack 
^iipon  the  country.  He  could^not  hope  for  success  with- 
out, at  least,  an  equal  number ;  and  we  may  safely  pre. 
sume,  that  such  an  army  will  never  be  sent  three  thou- 
sand miles,  on  an  expedition,  which,  though  succeaaftil, 
would  not  pay  one  thousandth  part  of  the  expence. 

The  altemoon  continued  wet,  and  rather  cokL    I  re- 
turned to  Boston  in  the  evening  by  the  stage. 


1 

# 


i%  ''  •      r 


,1% 


GHAFTER  XtH. 


JVi?w  HampsJi^ire, 


^ii\' 


Being  at  iJie  extwmlty  «f  iny  journey  to  'tte  iio«ii- 
etttwaid,  aond  in  the  fhetropoUs  of  the  New  Englaihd  irtsMt^. 
I  diall,  before  leaving  it,  talce  a  view  of  the  stutes  cf  New 
Hampshire  and  Vermont. 


^ 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


Is  situated  between  42^  42^  and  45^13'  north  Mitu^e, 
and  4°  23'  and  19°  Wf  east  longitude.  Its  greatest  length  is 
182,  and  its  greatest  breadth  92  miles.  Its  area  is  9491 
square  miles,  contsuning  6,074,240  acres. 

The  state  has  about  15  miles  of  sea-coast,  from  whencti 
it  extends  in  breadth,  and  is  generally  level  towards  the 
sea,  rismg  graduaMy  from  20  to  30  miles,  when  the  moun- 
tains commence,  and  these  are  more  lofty  than  in  vsKf 
other  part  of  the  United  States ;  the  White  Mountains  being 
visible  30  mUes  out  at  sea,  and  computed  by  Dr.  Bel^ 
knap  at  10,000  feet,  by  Mr.  WiHiams  at  7800.  Ther^ 
are  iarge  and  rich  valleys  among  the  mountains,  and  'k 
number  lof  level  phuns  along  Connecticut  river.  Th^ 
are  several  lakes  in  the  state,  but  none  of  any  great'  im^ 
pQFtance,  except  Wimnpiseogeey  near  Ae  centre,  24  miles 
long,  and  of  unequal  breadth,  fix)m  3  to  12  miles.    It  is 


VOL.  I. 


n 


yCWi«AMPBHIRE. 


full  of  hlands,  and,  beings  navigable  in  summer,  and  frozen 
over  in  winter,  it  proves  a  considerable  convenience  to 
that  part  of  the  country.  The  principal  river  is  Connec- 
ticut,  which  is  the  boundary  line  between  this  state  and 
Vermont.  The  Piscataquii^is  the  boundary  line,  for  a  lit- 
tie  way,  between  this  state  and  the  district  of  Maine ;  and 
forms  the  harbour  for  the  only  shipping  port  in  New  Hamp- 
shire. There  is  a  singular  curiosity  in  the  state  called  the 
A<fttk\  which  is  a  pass  through  the  mountains,  at  one 
pl9ce  only  22  feet  Wide;  and;  being  bounded  by  rocks,  aj. 
moM;  ]^erpendiculaf,  and  of  •  great  height,  presents  a  scene 
strikingly  picturesque. 

The  minerals  quoted  are  ochres,  isinglass,  chrystals, 
sulphur,  free-stone,  lead,  black-lead,  and  copper ;  but  the 
most  valuable  is  iron^  which  is  found  in  many  places,  and 
is  wrought  in  considerable  quantities, 
.w  The  soil,  near  the  sea-coast,  is,  in  some  places,  sandy, 
but!  near[  the  banks  of  rivers  generally  good,  as  is  likewise 
the,  case  in  the  valleys  among  the  mountains.  The  moun- 
tains are,  many  of  them,  rocky  and  barren,  but  others  arc 
ibrtile^.o^- the  brows,  and  nearly  all  are  covered  witli 
^berv 

The  climate  is  healthy,  but  the  winters  are  long  and 
^vere,  and  there  are  great  extremes  Oi.'  lieat  and  cold.  Mr. 
Belknap  has  observed  the  thermometer  at  18°  below  0', 
and  in^ummer  it  has  risen  to  nearly  100° ;  thF  average  is 
i^bput  48/  or  50°.  Snow  Ues  on  the  ground  from  three  to 
four  months,  and  the  use  of  sleighs,  during  that  period,  is 
geneird.  .  The  spring  is  rapid;  and  the  summer  and  fall 
are*  generally  pleasant. 

The  country  w^s  first  discovered  in  1614.  The  first 
Settlement  ^asinade  in  1623.  The  inhabitant*i^k  an  ac- 


msW   HAMPtHIMU 


n 


tive  part  in  the  fcvolutionary  war,  and  scoiC  two  ddbgwtes 
to  congress  in  1774 ;  in  1788  they  adopted  the  federal 
constitution:;  and  the  state  constitution,  as  it  now  stands, 
was  ratified  in  1792.  .  The  state  sends  two  senators  and 
fjve  reprea^lltatives  to  congress.  .  /    .  •' 

The  state  is  divided  into  six  counties,  and  219  town# 
ships,  of  six  miles  square  each.  Its  population  in  1800 
was  183,858,  being  nearly  20  to  the  square  mile. 

Although  this  appears  but  a  thin  population,  yet  it  is  to  be 
observed,  that  a  great  part  of  the  state  is  covered  by  moun- 
tains, which  are  incapable  of  cultivation.  The  sea-coast, 
valleys,  and  fertile  spots,  are  said  to  be  thickly  setded,  and 
these  places  have  kept  pace  in  improvements  with  the  other 
New  England  states.  .  Portsmouthf  on  the  Pisca^qua  ri- 
ver, two  miles  from  the  sea,  is  tlie  principal  town,  and  b^r 
ing  the  only  seaport,  it  has  a  pretty  good  trade ;  it  con- 
tains 5,500  inhabitants.  Concged  is  the  seat  of  govern* 
ment,  and  contains  2050.  Dover  contains  2062 ;  Am- 
herst, 2150;  Hanover,  1920;  Exeter,  1730;  Keene,  1645; 
Charleston,  1634 ;  Durham,  1128 ;  there  are  3  others, 
containing  from  500  to  1000.     , 

Small  villages  and  farm-houses  are  numerous,  and  the 
country  is  pretty  well  supplied  with  good  roads,  and  some 
elegant  bridges,  of  which  the  chief  is  across  the  Piscataqua, 
seven  miles  above  Portsmouth.  It  is  2600  feet  long,  and 
cost  68,0<ID  dollars.  i  i;  ti.c.;i^j 

Agrici^lture  is  the  chief  buskiess  of  the  state,  and  is 
well  conducted.  The  principal  products  are  beef,  pork, 
mutton,  poultT}^  wheat,  com,  and  other  grain;  butter, 
cheese,  flaxy  fiemp,  hops,  ve^tables,  apples,  pears,  &c«  J 

The  ^x^oilntry  people  generally  mantifad^re  their  own 
clotlun|||%id;make  consid^rable^uantitics  of  tow  elot)i  itov 


m> 


3m«r  «Ain»iinit#; 


# 


ex})Qrtsitioii.  The  other  manufiictures  are^ashcs,  maple- 
iugw*  hntks^  pottery,  and  iron  wast.  ^  > 
.  A  great  part  of  the  surplus  produce  of  thb  state  is  car. 
ried  to  Boston,  which  prevents  it  fixmn  making  a  great 
figure  in  the  scale  of  exports )  the  amount,  ii^l805,  was 
608,408  dollars,  but  it  sddom  exceeds  half  a  miCion. 
All  the  export  trade  centres  at  Portnnouth. 

The  inhabitants  arc  represented  as  hardy,  robust,  and 
active.  Education  has  been  vciy  well  attended  to.  There 
is  a  college  at  Dartmouth,  Supported  by  a  fimd  of  80,000 
acres  of  land,  and  there  are  a  number  of  academies^  schools, 
and  public  libraries.  ^  ^^  / 

The  govenunent  is  founded  upon  a  bill  of  lights,  declar- 
ing that  all  men  are  bom  equally  free  and  independent; 
and  that  all  government  originates  from  the  people:  that 
every  man  has  a  right  to  worship  God  accorcyng  to  the 
dictates  of  his  conscience :  that  all  electioas  ought  to 
be  fr^  and  that  eveiy  inhabitsuit  of  the  state,  having  the 
proper  qualifications,  has  an  equal  right  to  eleet,  ai^d  be 
elected,  into  office :  that  there  shall  be  no  hereditary  rights, 
and  the  press  shall  be  free. 

The  exercise  of  ths  government  is  vested  in  a  Icgisla- 
ture,  consisting  <^  a  senate  and  house  of  rqiresenatives ;  a 
governor  and  council  to  execute  the  laws ;  and  a  judiciary 
to  promote  justice  between  man  and  man.  The  senate 
cons^<i^s  of  13  members,  chosen  annually  by  Ae  peofint ; 
ihe  members  must  be  possessed  of  a  freehold  estate  of 
£,  200.  The  represent^ves  are  apportioned  according  to 
tiie  population,  every  town  which  has  ISO  rategblev  polls 
being  entitled  to  one  representative ;  having  450,  ^Sffijf  are 
endtktd  to  two.  They  are  also  elected  annually^jg|l  must 
«ike  {K>ssessed^a  fisehoM  o£>C«  XO0.   The  ggMRor  isyin 


# 


NEW   RAVPSHTRE.  10^ 

like  manner,  elected  annually,  and  must  be  possessed  of  a 
ireehold  of  £,  500«  There  are  five  counsellors,  who  are 
chosen  annually,  who  must  be  possessed  of  freeholds 
of  £,  300.  '       . 

The  following  extr^  Ufo^  t)ie  constitution  ought  to 
be  generally  known. 

**  Knowledge  and  leanpng;,  generally  diffused  through  a 
community,  being  essential  to  the  presorvation  of  a  firee 
government;  and  spreading  the  opportumties  and  advan- 
tages of  education  through  the  various  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, b^ii^g  highly  conducive  to  promote  thb  end }  it  shall 
be  the  duty  of  the  legislators  and  magistrates,  in  aU  future 
penods  of  this  government^  to  cherish  the  interest  of  litera- 
ture and  the  sciences,  and  all  seminaries  and  public  schools^ 
to  encourage  private  and  public  institutions,  rewards  and 
immunHie^  for  thei  promotion  of  agriculture,  arts,  sciences^ 
commerce,  tradct  manu&ctures,  and  natural  history  of  thp 
country;  to  coimtenance  and  inculcate  ^  principles  of 
humanity  and  general  benevolence;  public  aqd  private 
ch%iiy,  industry  and  economy,  honesty  and  punctuality^ 
sincerity,  sobriety,  and  all  social  affections,  and  Generous 
sentiments,  among  the  people." 


t 


■.■ft4i-f^,r/t 


^'m\ 


,». 


.  • 


ma 


TEBHONT. 


i 


.>■;■•/;  •  ; 


•#*; 


Vermont 

Is  situaHfed  betwcei  42®  42'  and  45«  north  latitude,  and 
3*  38^  aiid  5"  27'  east  lon^tude.  it  is  166  milei  long, 
and  its  gteate^  breadth  is  93  itiites.  Its  area  is  about 
10,237  square  miles,  or  6;55 1,680  atres. '  i*  >  --^^ 

-'This  state  is  mostly  hilly^bi!!*  libt  rocky,  Mid  towards 
Canada  it  is'  level.  An  extehislVe'  ehain  ^of  high  m<>untmns 
runs  through  the  middle,  nearly  south  smd  north,  which 
abounds  with  elegant  scenery. '  Amon'g  these  there  atrebeau- 
ti^l  and  fertile  Valkys ;  and  the  whole  is  finely  watered  with 
spnngs.  Lake  Cha^m]plain  and  its  waters  divides  the  state 
from  N^  York  on"  the  west ;  and  the  Connecticut  river 
from  New  Hampshire  on  the  east.  There-  are  several 
rivers  towards  Canada.  No  part  of>  the  state  is  on  the 
seaboard.  '  •      •  -^'i*  ^^tmi^u  ^a:Lv:mmi^j- 

Iron  is  ibund  in  abundance  throughout  the  state.  Lead, 
copperas,  flint,  and  vitriol  have  been  found,  and  the  west 
side  of  the  state  abounds  With  marble. 

This  state,  not^vithstanding  its  mountains,  contains  a 
great  deal  of  excellent  soil. 

The  climate  is  similar  to  New  Hampshire. 

^'  The  territory  composing  Vermont,  was  long  claimed  by 

the  adjoining  states  of  New  Hampshire  and  New  York; 

but  the  inhabitants  wished  it  to  become  an  independent 

ftate  in  1777,  and  the  grten  mountain  boys,  aah^lhey  were 


l^SBMONT. 


m 


called^  took  a  very  active  jart  in  the  war  of  the  revolution; 
bift  they  did  not  succeed  in  establishing  their  (^laim  of  in* 
dependence  till  1791,  when  they  were  adkmtted,  a'I4th 
state,  into  the  union.  The  state  constitution  was  adopted 
in  1793,  and  Vermont  now  sends  t^Q.  senators,  and^  fo]^ 
representatives,  to  congress.  ".  ;^^w,  t  i,Hnl  "IT 

, a. The  state  is  divided  into  12  counties,  aoAiQ46  towni 
ships,  of  six  miles  square. .  The  populatii!mj>1:^the  ceiisus 
of  1800,  was  154j465,  being  upwardsiof  15  to  daei  square 
mile.  ■-  .■  riw^wm^^^tii  •  .'  .L  :  fbtxa^BUmuM  m 

:  >  Vermont  being  off  the-  seacoast,  or^  as .  it '^is,  soihetimd^ 
termed,  &r  from  a  market,  there  are  no  large'  commercisd 
cities ;  but  there  are  a  number  of  litde  towns,  few  oi  which 
have  more  than  two  thous^d  inhabitants,  i  ^: ^^'j  :  fiifbWpt^ 
MoNTPELLiER  is  the  Seat  of  government,  ffind  eontiuhs 
150O;  Bennington  22i50,  Windsor  2200,  Rudand  213d, 
Newbury  2000,  Manchester  2000,  Newfane  1700;  ^ 
Albans  1400,  Middlebury  1260,  Burlmgton  1100,  St 
Hero  lOOC  Craftsbury  1000,  Brunswick  1000..  "  v  ! 

i>  The  great  business  of  the  state  is  agriculture,  in  ^luch 
the  inhabitants  are  said  to  have  made  considerable  pro- 
gress. ,  The  soil  is  generally  more  productive  than  that  of 
New  Hampshire*  The  produce  is  neariy  the  same.  The 
brows  of  the  mountains  answer  well  for  grazing,  and  they 
raise  great  stores  of  beef  and  pork,  with  excellent  butter 
and  cheese  for  market ;  and  of  kite  they  have  made  great 
progress  in  raising  sheep  and  wool.  '  vfi 

The  principal  manufactures  are  of  the  domestic  kind, 
consisting  of  wool  and  flax  for  family  use.  Iron  is  m^u- 
fectured,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  pot  and  pearl 
ashes.  *» 


# 


104 


^^BBllOlffr^ 


• 


TJns  only  external  tiadc. of.; Vermont  is  withx^r^bada^ 
and  the  elports,.  in  1^5^  amounted  to  169,403  doUats ; 
biit  the  atole  has  a  x^onsiderabk  comifttntey  thnnigfa  thto 
medium  of  its  rivers^  with  NeW  York,  Hartford, ,  and 
Bostc^ 

The  inhabitants  are  representedy  by  trayelierswhom  I 
ha^e  convened  withy  as  being  hardy>  robust,  fiili«fealiited^ 
and  florid  in  their  ecnaaplexiotls. .  As  diey'  are  indsdy  all 
agricaltumlistt  or  mecfaaniGs,  they  ate  independent  in  their 
sentiments,  and,  their  wants  being  mostly  supplied  among 
themselves,,  they  are  not  subject  to  great  vicissitude^  of 
ibrtune,  and  are  generally  weakhy  in  proportion  aa  (they 
are  industrious.*  The  sysitem  df  education  partakea  of  ihb 
equality :  they  h»ve  t?iliro  semikiaries  for  the  higiher  branched 
of  eduealbn«  but  ^  chief  objett  of  the  legblatore  has 
been  t6  ptovkle  1^  the  general  difiusion  of  knowledge, 
b^  hxf'mg  'eMtm^  scho&ls  iR  tyery  township:  a  fdan 
high^  j)faiseworfhy)y  jand  wiiich  c^rety  eommimity  ou^ 
to  imitate..'  .-^si^mr  ■•:)■■         ' 

The  dedamtion  of  rights  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  of 
New  Hanq>8hire;  but  they  have  an  article  declanng  that 
no  nfimk  bom  m  the  country,  or  brought  over  se^,  can  be 
held  in  bondage  after  21,  and  no  ^male  after  18  years  of 


The  plan  of  government  is  legislative,  executire,  and 
judiciary^,  The  legislative  power  is  Vested  in  representa- 
tives chosen  annually,  every  free  male  of  2\  years  and 
Up^ivards,  who  pays  taxes,  having  a  vote.  The  executive 
is  vested  in  a  governor,  lieutenant-governor,  and  council 
of  12,  chosen  annually  in  like  mamier.  And  in  order 
^  that  the  freedom  of  the  commonwealth  may  be  kept  in- 
molate  for  ever,"  a  council  of  censors  is  chosen  once  in 


♦  ♦ 


YBBMONT. 


lOS 


seVen  years,  ivhose  duty  it  is  to  see  that  tiie  constitiitiori 
has  been  preserved  inviolate;  whether  the  taxes  have  beeii 
paid,  and  the  public  monies  properly  disposed  of;  whe^' 
ther  the  public  servants  have  done  their  duty,  and  the 
laws  been  duly  executed;,  and  .they  are  empowered,  it 
they  judge  it  necessary,  to  call  a  convention^  to  meet  two 
years  after  their  sitting,  to  revise  ^,  atnend  the  cioiisti-^' 
tution.    ■■  ■  "        ''' 


ri      1;' 


i[' 


'•^ 


■       #  ■  ■'-■■■■  *■■ 


i 


?r 


ivyu 


'')'< 


f 


T 


TSATBIiS  IN 


• 


'3e  (Br:   ;- 

'Having  taken  my  leave  of  a  number  of  kind  friends, 
with  whom  I  had  associated  during  my  stay  in  Boston,  I 
^engaged  a  pass^  by  the  mail  stage  for  New  York,  and 
\vas  called  to  take  my  place  on  the  4th  of  September,  at 
2  o'clock  in  the  morning.    It  is  the  practice  here  for  the 
driver  to  call  on  the  passengers  before  setting  out,  and  it 
^^  is  attended  with  a  considerable  degree  of  convenience  to 
^*  them,  particularly  when  they  set  out  early  in  the  morning. 
"i' ^  The  mail  stages  here  are  altogether  difierent  in  construe- 
'^^  tion  from  the  mail  coaches  in  Britain^     They  are  long 
machines,   hung  upon  leather  braces,   with  three 'seats 
across,  of  a  sufficient  length  to  accommodate  three  persons 
each,  who  all  sit  with  their  faces  towards  the  horses.    The 
driver  sits  under  cover,  without  any  division  between  him 
and  the  passengers ;  and  there  is  room  for  a  person  to  sit 
on  each  side  of  him.     The  driver,  by  the  post-office  re- 
gulations, must  be  a  white  man,  and  he  has  the  charge  of 
the  mail,  which  is  placed  in  a  box  below  his  seat.    There 
is  no  guard.     The  passengers'  luggage  is  put  below  the 
seats,  or  tied  on  behind  the  stage.     They  put  nothing  on 
the  top,  and  they  take  no  outside  passengers.    The  stages 
are  slightly  built,  and  the  roof  suspended  on  pillars;  with 
a  curtain,  to  be  let  down  or  folded  up  at  pleasuitu     The 


t 


Hll»^ftiflBn 


d  friends, 
Boston,  I 
ifork,  and 
:ember,  at 
ere  for  the 
;>yt,  and  it 
^e^ence  to 
e  morning, 
n  construe- 
y  are  long 
three  seats 
persons 
IS.  The 
itween  him 
irson  to  sit 
it-office  re- 
charge of 
It.*  There 
|t  below  the 
notlung  on 
Tlie  stages' 

lillars  i  with  I 
sure.    The  | 


MASrACttV^TTS.  Wt^ 

conveyance  is  easy,  and  in  summer  very  Agreeable ;  but  it 
must  be  exccsaiveJy  cold  in  winter.      .f  '^  .       !- 

•  There  was  an  Englishman,  a  facetio^  merry  fellow^ 
who  lodged  at  Chsqspotin's,  and  took  his>  passage  along 
with  me.  On  taking  our  places,  we  found  a  kwLy  paaseni 
ger  already  in  the  «tage,  and  our  company  was  afterwards 
augmented  by  three  more,  namely,  <  a  gentkman  from  the 
West  Indies,  one  from  Hudson,  and  a  young  lady.  By 
the  time  we  got  all  the  passengers  and  the  mgJUon  boardy 
it  was  3  o'clock,  at  which  hour  we  set  out  from  Boston 
by  West  Boston  biidge ;  and  three  miles  beyond  it  we 
pa^d  through  Cambridge,  which,  at  that  early  hour,  I 
could  not  see,  but  I  learned  that  the  situation  is  hand^' 
same,  and  that  it  contains  a  university,  which  is  reputed 
the  best  literary  mstitution  in  the  United  States.  It  was 
established  in  163B,  and  has  now  four  large  buildings, 
with  accommodations  sufficient  to  contain  upwards  iof 
200  students  j  who  attend  it  annually,  and  are  instructed 
in  all  the  various  branches  of  hunum  knowledge.  Alt&dtim 
ed  to  tiie  institution  are  a  philosophical  apparatus,  a  small 
museum,  and  a  very  extensive  library.  The  village  of 
Cambridge  contains  about  1000  inhabitants^  The  houses 
are  mostiy  built  of  wood.  The  public  buildings  are,  be- 
sides tlie  university^  a  court-house,  an  episcopal,  and  a 
coi^r^gational  church.  ^::  i 

We  travelled  13  miles  before  we  had  fair  day-li^t,  du- 
ring which,  we  passed  through  Watertown  and  Wahham, 
to  Weston.  It  is  to  beii,  obseh^ed,  lliat  towns,  in  the  New 
England  states,  do  not  always  imply  a  collection  of  houses 
in  one  pkM:e,^  sufficient  to  form  a  village.  The  whole 
country  is  divided  into  districts,  of  about  six  miles  sqfuare 
each,  and  these  are  lalled  towns,  whether  they  be  thickly 


^«... 


t 


-— T 


.f 


i0d  TBAV1IL8  VX^V. 

settled  or  not.  The  arrangement  of  ^heae  tdwni,  is  aoine^ 
what  assimilated  to  the  parishes  in  iBcotland,  having  each 
a  separate  jurisdiction  within  itself,  wliich  regulates  the 
aifiurs  of  religion  and  of  education,  and  makes  proviuon 
ibr  the  poor.  Th^  ave  also  of  great  importance  m  the 
ekcdons,  whieh  are  conducted  throughout  the  whole  state 
in  one  day,  the  people  voting  in  their  respective  towns, 
which  has  a  tendency  to  prevent  all  bustle  and  confusion. 
In  travelling  through  the  country,  you  go  from  one  town 
to  another,  and  are  never  out  of  one ;  it  is;  therefiare,  only 
where  i  the  towns  contain  villages,  that  I  mean  to  notice 
th^m,  and,  in  giving  the  population,  it  is  to  be  obsen^, 
that  it  includes  the  whole  of  the  township,  that  being<the 
mode  in  which  the  census  is  takeh.  Westoh,  which 
I  ^last  noticed,  contains  about  1200  inhabitants.  The 
country  is  s^d  to  be  well  cultivated  and  thicket  settled, 
all  the  way  from  Boston. 

mVWe  could  now  see  one  another's  faces,  and  the  morn- 
ing being  clear  and  healthy,  we  wdre  in  high  spirits,  and 
disposed  for  enjoyment.  One  of  our  lady  passengers  was 
a  beautiful  country  gkl,  but  we  learned  that  she<  was  to 
travel  with  us  only  28  miles ;  and  our  fiK»tious  Ei^lish- 
man  seemed  disposed  to  improve  the^time  by  orations  in 
favour  of  her  eyes,  or  beautiful  twmklers  as  he  called  them. 
They  certainly  were  very  pretty,  and  she  had  p  blooming 
Idok,  the  iiidication:  of  a  hfythe  hmtti  accordiiig  to  the 
Scot^  jxEOverb.  The  other  lady,  we  learned,  was  travelling 
to  Springfield,  80:  miles;  but  s^ie  was  qtiite  eclipsed  by 
her  lair  companion,  and  came  in  for  no  share  of  the  Eng- 
lishman's compliments,  while  the  other  remained  with  us. 
)5.'.^rom  Weston,  we  passed  through  a  thickly^  settled  and 
Well  cultivated  country,  by  Sudbu^^  Marlbofough,  and 


i 


IIA88AORU81TT8. 


109 


is  8Glne- 
ng  each 
lates  the 
proviuon 
,ce  in  the 
hole  state 
re  towns, 
>onfusaon. 
one  town 

t  to  notice 
obsen^, 
being^the 
m,  which 
Bits.  The 
£ly  settled, 


WestboKNi^;  and,  45  miles  from  Boston,  we  arrived  at 

WoaCESTER.  mtlfm^-'^- 

.  This  is  a  pretty  place,  and  said  to  be  one  of  the  largest 
inland  towns  in  the  state,  (t  is  the  capital  of  a  county  to 
which  it  gives  the  name^  and  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  val- 
Iqr,  mostly  on  one  street,  which  is  broad  and  handsome. 
The  houses  are  generally  of  wood,  painted  white ;  and 
are  in  number  about  400.  The  mhabitants  amount  to 
about  2500.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house^ 
jail,  and  two  congregational  churches.  They  have  a  pretty 
extensive  inland  trade  at  this  place,  and  the  printing-busi- 
ness has  been  long  established  here  by  a  Mr.  Thomas, 
who  is  reputed  to  be  the  oldest  printer  in  America.  It  is 
proposed  to  open  an  inland  i^vigation  between  this  place 
ind  Providence,  distant  about  40  miles,  and  if  it  should 
take  place,  it  is  supposed  that  it  will  be  attended  with 
great  advantage.  ■  \^ 

iVikFrom  hence  we  passed  through  Leicester  and  Spencer, 
'  and,  getting  into  a  hiliy  country,  we  continued  our  course 
to  BrookfiEljd,  about  21  miles  from  Worcester.  This 
b  a  handsome  post^own,  situated  on  Quebang  river,  20 
miles  above  its  junction  with  Connecticut  river ;  and  in  a 
rich^  fertile  country,  abounding  in  grain,  grass,  fruits,  and    l| 
vegetables.    It  contains  nearly  3000  inhabitants,  and  has    ^ 
foiu*  places  for  public  worship.    The  river  abounds  with 
fiih;  smd  the  countxy  round  contains  great  quantities  of 
iron  ore. 

Seven  miles  from  hence  we  reached  Western,  73  miles 
from  Boston  ;iaid  here  ds^-light  having  failed  us,  my  ob- 
servations on  the  scenery  of  the  country  were,  terminated     * 
for  the  day  i 


■•iK^'i-H"'  ?%>?fc' 


ix.vtii^i::i^  ' 


:;  mfmm>w^'i^,f^-^ys^<iii^^-i^4f 


no 


.'  TUAVELS  IN    '. 


This  was  the  first  inland  journey  i  had  made^  itr  She 
northern  states,  and  I  was  highly  delighted  with  evoy  thing 
I  saw,  which  formed  a  perfect  contrast  to  Georgia;  and 
the  villages,  the  fields,  the  fan^^houses,  the  gardens,  and  the 
orchards,  far  surpassed  what  is  to  be  generally  seen  even 
in  '*  Scotia,  my  dear,  my  native  soil.'*  The  inhabitants 
every  where  appeared  to  be  industrious,  contented,  and 
haj^y;  and  I  found  them  always  civil  and  well-bred^  and 
ready  to  give  me  every  information. 

Our  company  were  lively  and  cheerfuL  Our  fiK^etious 
Englishman  was  quite  in  high  spirits;  and  jocularly  threat^ 
ened  to  have  me  denounced  as  a  spy.  I  retaliated  by 
threatening  to  have  have  him  denounced  as  a  flatterer  of 
the  fiur  sex,  of  whom  he  seemed  determined  to  spare  nei- 
ther age,  features,  nor  complexion ;  for  the  beauty  having  left 
us,  and  ceasing^  to  allure  him  by  her  *'  witching  smile,"  the 
other  lady,  whom  I  did  not  think  handsome,  came  in  for 
an  extravagant  share  of  compliment.  ''  The  lught  drave 
on  wiVsangs  an'  clatter.''  Our  West  Indian,  who  was' 
a  Yankee  by  buth,  entertained  us  with  a  history  of  hind- 
Ung;  and  we  had  a  vast  variety  of  songs,  among  which 
was  "  Yankee  Doodle." 

In  prosecu^g  our  journey  to  Springfield^  we  stopped  at 
a  small  tavern  to  change  horsies,  and  in  the  mean  time  went 
into  the  house  to  warm  ourselves,  for  the  evening  had  be- 
come cold.  In  passing  througb  the  pailour  we  saw  a. tall, 
elegant  girl,  to  whom  our  gentlemen  began  immediately  to 
make  loye;  but  I  prosecuted  my  way  to  the  kitchen  fire, 
where  there  sat  another  young  girl,  and  she  was  bduitiful. 
She  was  dressed  in  substantial  homespuI^  but  very  clean, 
and  was  knitting  a  stocking.  Her  age  might  be  abotit  16, 
and  her  name  was .  Lucretia,    I  entered  into  conversation 


MAMAGHUMTTS. 


Ill 


i;  and 
Hid  the 
incvcn 
ibitants 
ed,  and 
ed^  and 

acetious 
y  threat^ 
iated  by 
ittercr  of 
pare  nei- 
avingleft 
nile,"  the 
in  for 
ktdrave 
who  was 

t 

of  bund- 
ig  wluch 

sppedat 
lewent 
had  be- 
Etw  a  tali, 
to 
chenfire, 
Bigtifill. 
clean^ 
kboutl6) 
Lversatioit 


pne 


with  her«iand  her  voiite  nvas  as  sweet  laii  hei^  ^ouhtcnanoe. 
I  was  jddtighled  with  hihr  appearance.  At  length  in  came 
the  otlkirpaaaengers  with.a  bang;  andi our  facetious  friend, 
who  seemed  to  have  re^rved^  the  vary  quintessence  of  Uu 
talent  ibr  compliment  foil  the  ocoasionj  began  ah  oration 
about  finearched^  ieyc-»bit>w8,  aquiline  noses(»-)and  beaiitifiil 
twinklers,  which  probably  would  have  lasted  half  ah  hour, 
had  wo  not  been  edited  axi^y  to'take  ^ii^^eats  in  the  stage. 
We  soon  observed  that  all  pardes  ivere  not  pdeasiedf  for  we 
heaid  the  Yfmked  bKUigrunibling  as  wb  Ipa^qed  them ;  and 
thotYooke^  lady  passenger*  observed,  witha/tossof  her  head, 
that  she  could  not  see  what  we  all  had  to  make  such  a  fuas 
about. 

At  10o*clock  we  reached  Springfield,  said  to  be  a 
handsome  and  thriving  town,  situated  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Connecticut  river,  97  miles  from  Boston.  It  contains 
about  1500  inhabitants,  who  carry  on  a  considerable  inlaiid 
trade;  and  have  established  a  respectable  manufactory  of 
fire-arms.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house  and 
a  congregational  church. 

The  Connecticut  River,  on  which  Springfield  is 
situated,  is  one  of  the  most  considerable  and  important  in 
the  United  States.  It  rises  on  the  high  lands  which  sepa- 
rate the  states  of  V^mont  and  New  Hampshire  fix)m  Upper 
Canada;  and  pursuing  a  course  a  little  to  the  west  of  south, 
•  falls  into  Long  Island  Sound;  its  length,'  including  its 
windings,  being  about  300  miles.  It  forms  the  boundary 
line  between  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire,  and  passes 
through  the  interior  of  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut. 
Its  banks  are  hi^y  cultivated  and  thickly  settled,  through 
its  whole  course.  There  is  a  bar  at  its  outlet,  on  which 
there  is  only  10  feet  water,  and  interiorly  it  is  much  ob- 


112 


TRATSL8  IK 


structcd  by  fiills;  but  it  is  navigable  for  sea  Vessels  to  Hart- 
fofd;  and  there  is  a  great  trade  on  the  river  above  that  place; 
fxirticulaiijr  downwuds,  in  flat^bottomed  boats.  The  river 
abounds  with  salmon,  and  other  fish.  It  n  in  contempla- 
tion to  improve  the  navigation  by  locks  at  several  places, 
and  to  connect  it  with  Merrimac  river,  distant  50  miles,  by 
a  canal.    . 

Having  crossed  this  river,  the  road  runs  nearly  along 
its  west  bank,  10  miles,  to  Suffield,  in  Connecticut, 
where  we  stopped  for  the  night  Here  I  suspend  my  ac- 
count of  the  journey  to  take  a  short  review  of  the  interest- 
ing state  of  Massachusetts.  A^ 


.t\ ..     ..>^iir>'- i>r 


'   ,     "!     ■ 


.,.J 


'  ihi^i. 


'■  :  ■  •  I  , 


I). 


'MtJ^iKJ 


'  •  .;.    .  *!  V, .  i 

I   ,.■.  ,.v,',      .1*,  ,  ,   V 
.        f       ■.'.». 


MA83ACIIU8ETT8. 


113 


!0  Hflft- 

rt  place; 
"he  river 
itempla- 
l  places, 
i^esjbj 

•ly  along 
nccticut, 
i  my  ac- 
:  ustereflt- 

.liiucin 


,      -  J  -  -  • 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


.a., 


Massachusetts 


'.SSfiXi^ 


..'t^ 


Is  situated  between  41®  13'  and  42«»  52'  north  latitude, 
and  3®  28'  and  7°  east  longitude.  Its  extreme  length  is 
190  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth  100.  Its  square  con 
tents  is  8765  miles,  being  about  5,609,600  acres 

The  face  of  the  country  is  strikingly  diversified.  The 
coast,  on  the  east  side,  is  indented  with  bays,  and  studded 
mth  islands,  which  afford  ample  harbours  for  shipping; 
and  support  a  hardy  race  of  sailors  and  fishermen.  To- 
ward the  middle  the  surface  is  agreeably  uneven,  and  the 
west  swells  out  into  mountains,  s6me  of  which  are  of  very 
considerable  height.  The  state  is  well  watered,  abound- 
ing in  rivers  and  small  lakes.  The  principal  rivers  are 
Connecticut  and  Merrimac,  already  noticed. 

The  principal  mineral  is  iron,  of  which  the  state  pro- 
duces a  great  quantity.  A  copper  mine  has  been  disco- 
vered ;  and  there  are  considerable  quantities  of  clays  and 
ochres,  and  slate,  marble,  and  limestone. 

The  soil  b  various.  Toward  the  sea-coast  it  is  sandy 
and  barren.  In  the  interior  it  improves ;  and  toward  the 
western  parts,  where  the  country  is  hill^r,  it  is  best  adapted 
for  grazing.  Wheat  crops  are  not  abundant,  but  it  pro- 
duces Indian,  corn,  rye,  barley,  and  oats.  Vegetables 
and  firuit  come  to  great  perfection,  and  are  of  much  value 

VOL.-  I.       -•'''-■  p 


,it  X.  ^:!.....,..u.u^J.^r 


IJLjt  yi89,«:C|IU9BTTS. 

in  the  state.    Flax  and  some  hemp  aiie  cultivated;  and 
hops  grow  luxuriantly.  •    -  ^  ,  »**^^  ^-^.v  i 

vr The  climate  is  very  miich  assimilated  to  that  of  Rhode 
Island.  Toward  the  west,  the  winters  aie  more  cold  and 
severe  than  on  the  co^st^  but  the  w,ei^;ther  is  more  steady, 
and  the  whole  is  healthy. 

Massachusetts  was  first  settled,  in  1620,  by  a  colony  of 
puritans  from  Holland,  who  had  been  driven  thence  from 
England,  20  yejtfs  before.  Thes^e  arrived  and  settled  ^ 
jpiypiouth ;  and  eight  years  tliereafter,  another  colony  ar- 
rived  from  Ei^glai^,  and  settled  at  3^em.  These  cplo- 
nies  soon  encreai^d,  and  laid  the  founds^tion  for  a  powerful 
state,  now  one  of  the  first-  in  the  union.  The  revolution 
ori^ated  in  Massachu^tts,  wfiich  bore  m  actjve  share 
throughout  the  war.  ^t  now  sends  17  representatives  pnd 
tw9i  senators  tp  the  congress  of  the  United  States. 

^^assachuseftis  proper,  is  divided  into  J^  coun^ps  and 
279  tp^vnships.  The  inliabitants^  by  last  cen$ui»,  amount- 
eji  to  422,845;  being  about  48  tp  the  square  niile. 
:;  The  state  is  well  cultivated  ^nd  abounds  wid^  ^ycalth. 
Boston  is  the  capital,  an^  thp  next  tpwij  in  importance  is 
Salem.  Thpse,  and  ^ever^  'Others^  have  beoi  notioed. 
Of  Uie  ren^ainder,  th<2  most  important  is  Marbleheady  a 
sea-port  containing  upwards  of  5000  inhabitants.  Newt^ij. 
ryport,  is  a  handsome  sea-port,  containing  ne^ly  6000  in- 
habitants,  and  has  several  manu|^ctones»  a^  a  large  ^ip- 
pijig  trade.  Ipsrwich  contains  3000  inhabitants ;  and  <Jon- 
^dy  a  flourishing  tpwn  on  Cpncord  riv^  is  remarf^able 
as  being  the  place  wbere  the  provincMiJ  congress  held 
their  delib^^tions  during  the  -m^*  Taunt«m,  Northampton, 
Stockb|*idg;e,  iPitts^eld,  and  Barnstaple,  ^re  all  towns  of 
considerable  note.    The  state  is  intersected  in  every  di- 


HAWACiiUBtittili 


115 


recdoh'  iP^llif  good  roads,  dhd  thb  bridge^'di^  hu'iheroud 
and  very  important; 

The  greater  part  of  the  manu&ctures  have  already  been 
enumerated  in  the  account  of  Boston ;  but  it  may  be  no- 
ticied,  thut, :..  the  interior,  thope  is  a  vast  variety  of  donies^ 
tic  mahufdctures  /  and  several  othero  upon  a  Iiarger  scalo^ 
particularly  of  woollen  and  cotton.       ^^ '  < 

The  exports  of  the  state  arfe  prbVii^6iii^,  thhber,  aslies, 
fikx-seed,  bees- wax/  fish,  oil,  daddler}%  cab^et-worky 
boots  and  shoes,  nails,  tow-cloth,  iron' Utensils,  glass,  spi- 
rits, 8cc.  The  imports  are  British  niatiuiactures,  tea,  wine; 
silks,  spirits,  coiFee,  cotton.  Sec.  Comih^c^  is  pursued 
mth  an  ardent  spirit  iti  the  state ;  and  it  is  said  that  Mas- 
sachusetts bWns  more'shi|!>ping  than  any  other  state  in  the 
Uhibh.  The  exports,  in  1805,  amountied  to  19,43^657 
doUbrs ;  but  14,758,6015  dollars  consisted  of  foreign  proi 
duce,  and,  of  the  remainder,  a  considerable  portibtl  Wa^ 
that  of  other  states.  The  state  has  very  extensive  fishe- 
ries,  the  product  of  which  is  annually  of  ^Teat  value. 

The  state  of  society  is  a  good  deal'  aSsiuiHated  to  that  of 
Rhode  Island,  described  in  the  tenth  chapter,  with  this 
essential  difference,  that'  slavery  is  totally  abolished  in  all' 
its  branches.  The  air  is,  like  that  of  Britain,  '^  too  pure  for 
a  slave  to  live  in ;"  and,  with  regard  to  the  white  people, 
I  ihink  it  is  **  more  pure,'*  for  here  they  are  all  on  an 
equal  footing,  having  neither  uobles,  nor  priests,  nor  rents, 
nor  tythes.    The  religious  matters,  like  the  state  of  Rhode 
Island,  and^  indeed,  all  the  other  states,  ai'e  managed  by 
each  religious  sect  In  its  own  way,  who  are  not  suflfered 
to  interfere  with  the  civil  rijghts  of  their  neighbours,  so  that 
the  sting  is  drawn  out  of  the  tdl  of  the  scorpion  of  reli- 
gious discord;    No  sect  is  d^titd  above  another;  and 


all  have  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  blessings  they  en- 
joy,  in  the  protection  of  equal  laws.  The  literary,  humane, 
and, other  institutions  are  numerous,  and  exhibit  a  £ur 
trait  of  the  character  of  the  inhabitants.  .  w 

^,,,. Qn  the  subject  of  literature,  the  constitution  declfirjes, 
that  '*  wisdom  and  knowledge,  as  well  as  virtue,  diffused 
generally  among  the  body  of  the  people,  being  necessary  for 
the  preservation  of  their  rights  and  liberties ;  and  as  these  de- 
pend on  spreading  the  opportunities  and  advantages  of  edu. 
cation,  in  the  various  parts  of  the  country,  and  among  the 
dijBerePit  orders  of  the  people,  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the.  le- 
gislatures and  magbtrates,  in  all  future  periods  of  the 
commonwealth,  to  cherish  the  interests  of  literature  and 
the  sciences,  ^n4  all  senunaries  of  them;  especially  the 
university  at  Cambridge,  public  schools,  and  grammar, 
schools  in  the  town§ ;  to  encourage  private  societies  and 
and  public  institutions,  by  rewards  and  immunities,  for 
the  promotion  of  agriculture,  arts,  sciences,,  commercci 
trades,  manufactures,  and  a  natural  history  of  the  countr}-; 
to  ^countenance  and  .inculcate  the  principles  of  humanity 
and  g^ieral  benevolence,  public  and  private  charity,.  in» 
dustry  and  frugality,  honesty  and  punctuality  in  their  deal- 
ings ;  smcerity,  good-humour,  and  all  social  affections  and 
generous  sentiments  among  the  people." 

Dr»  Morse  says,  **  According  to  the  laws  of  this  common- 
wealth, every  town  having  50  householders  or  upwards,  is  to 
be  provided  with  one  or  more  schoolmasters,  to  teach  chil- 
dren and  youth  to  read  and  write,  and  instruct  them  in  the 
English  langua^,  arithmetic,  orthography,  and  decent  be- 
haviour; and  where,  any  town  has  200  families,  there  is 
also  to  be agrarnxnar-school  set  up  therein, and  some  dis- 
creet person^  weU  instructedinthe  Latin,  Greeks  and  Eng- 


* 


M  A88  ACfB17SETT|«  1  If 

lish  languages,  procured  to  keep  the  same,  and  be  suitably 
paid  by  the  inhabitants.  The  penalty  for  neglect  of  schootsj 
in  towns  of  50  fiimilies,  is;C*10;  those  of  100  families, 
£.20i  and  of  150/^.30. 

The  state  government  is  vested  in  a  senate  and  house 
of  r^iresentatives,  styled  the  General  Court;  a  governor, 
lieutenant-governor,  and  council.  The  senators  are  40  in 
number,  and  are  elected  annually^  in  districts;  and  the 
i'oters  must  be  possessed  of  a  freehold  estate  of  £,  3,  or 
any  estate  of  the  value  of /.60f  The  representatives  are 
elected  annually,  in  townships :  evoy  corporate  town  coni- 
taining  150  rateable  polls  elect  1,  those  containing  375  elect 
2,  those  containing  600  elect  3,  and  so  on,  making  225 
the  number  for  every  additional  representative..  The  elec- 
tors must  be  possessed  of  the  same  property  as  for  senar 
tors.  The  governor  is  S|tyled  his  exceUenct^,  and  must  be 
possessed  of  a  freehold  oi  ^,  1000.  He  is  elected  annually  r 
by  those  qualified  to  vote  for  senators  and  representatives. 
The  lieutenant-governor  is  styled  his  honour y  and  must 
have  the  same  qualifications,  and  be  elected  in  the  same 
manner,  as  the  governor.  The  coimcil  consists  of  9  per- 
sons, chosen  from  the  senators  by  jdint  ballot  of  the  se- 
nators and  representadves. 

The  District  of  Maine  is  politically  connected 
with  Massachusetts,  and  is  of  great  extent,  being  about 
250  miles  long  by  192  broad,  and  contains  an  area  of 
34,000  square  miles,  or  21,760,000  acres. 

The  first  setdement  took  place  about  the  year  1630 ; 
and  the  inhabitants,  who  have  been  greatly  augmented  by 
em^rations  from  the  adjoining  states,  amounted,  by  the 
last  census,  to  151,719,  being  less  than  4  to  the  square 
mile ;  but  they  are  rapidly  increasing. 


There  are  a  considereble  number  of  totvns  on'tliie'  cdast, 
of  which  the  cMef  is  Portland,  which  contains  nearfy  4000 
inhabituits,  tod  has  a  great  and  increasing  trade.  ¥M  is 
the  second  in  importance,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable 
business.  HaUirwdly  Wiseasiet,  ahd  Mdchias  'sxt  cctoA- 
derable  places^  to  si^' nothing  6f  Fassamaquoddtf,gi:^bti  of 
Land^s  End  in  CormbaUy  or  Johnny  Gtdafs  Ihus&i  ait  the 
very  extremity  of  th^  Union,  and  which  sends  outa  con- 
^derable  ntmiber  of  small  vessels.  * 

The  land  oA  die  scia-coast  is  stonly  and  l!iiri^;  biit 
thefe  are  tracts  of  good  land  in  the  interior  of  tihe  cdtihliy, 
which  prodklce  graih  and  fruits,  and  die  country  is  remark- 
ably weHcdbulatedfi^  grazing. 

'tbt  principal  ti^die  consists  in  luimber  and  fish,  of  Which 
the  inhabitants  darty  great  quantities  to  the  sea-ports  of 
America,  and  to  the  West  Indiies.  The  manufactures  are 
principally  of  the  domestic  kind. 

The  state  of  society  is  nearly  d^i^^^ame  as  in  Massadiu* 
setts.     .  ; 

The  fece  of  the  country  is  hilly,  but  not  mountainous; 
and  the  coast  is  completely  indented  with  bays  and  rivers, 
^he  winters  are  long  and  severe,  with  clear,  setded  wea- 
ther. The  summers  are  short,  but  very  agreeable.  Of 
spring  there  is  hardly  aiiy;  but  the  autumns  are  generally 
clear  and  healdiy. 


'■;,   t 


G|l^Klt^TlCU7. 


Jll 


M    ',r   k 


•m 


i.' 


CHAPTER  XVn. 


!!#>' 


•:«1T0^  ■ 


Hartfordy — J^ewhaveriy^  Stamford. 


•<\'j  ■ 


^^?5f 


September  5.  We  resumed  our  Jounwy  this 
inorntng  at  3  o^clock,  and  travelled  towards  Hartford, 
kdepbg  near  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  tnoming  tite 
set^e  apd  clear,  but  a  little  cold.  We  could  see  notfaitig 
of  the  country  at  that  early  hour ;  but  \9€  were  informed 
that  it/was  handsome^  and  well  improved.  The  road  i^ 
level  and  good^  Ten  miles  from  Suffield,  tiis  passed 
through  ^m(/^r,  a  pleasant  to^iH)  situated  on  Windsor 
Feiry^  River,  which  We  passed  by  a' wooden  bridge.  Wc 
mm  had  day^light,  and  an  agreeable  journey  for  six  miles 
ferthei'i  to  Hartfonl,*  which  we  reached  fit  7  o'clock,  to 
breakBeit. '    \r.:A:t^P "         .        ■■;■■'  ■■.  .^^?k. 

HaIitjoro  is  Mtendsome  citf^,  the  capital  of  "CisftiSc* 
tieutj  and  is,  alternately  with  Newfeiven,  the  ^t  of  k- 
gislatiicii  lor  the  state.  It  is  situated  on  Connecticut  Ri* 
ver,  at  the  head  of  slo^  navigation,  50  miles  above  Long 
Island  sound.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  crossirtg 
one  another  at  ri^  angles ;  but  they  are  not  pav^d,  and, 
when  I  saw  them^  they  were  veiy  muddy.  The  city  con- 
sists  of  about  400  houses,  and  contains  between  3  and  4000 
inhabitants*.  The  public  buildings  are  the  State-House, 
an  elegant  edifice,  two  congi'egational  churches,  and  one 


*  By  the  census  pf  1810  they  were  3,955. 


im 


w-tttATBLr'tir''.- 


episcopal  church.  The  citizens  cany  cm  e  active  com- 
merce, in  all  the  products  of  the  state,  to  the  southern 
states  and  the  West  Indies  y  and  they  have  a  large  share 
of  country  trade.  Considerable  manu&ctures  are  carried 
on  with  spirit,  and  air^  |itic^«k$iiijg>  r  IFhe  marketat  are  well 
supplied  with  wholesome  provisions,  which  are  sold  at 
reasonable  rates. 

On  leavin^^  the  city,  we  got  an  addition  to  our  company, 
of  some  students  going  to-Newhaven,  and  sonie  young 
ladies ;  and  we  had  a  great  deal  of  entertainment  from  the 
inemarks :  of  our  facetious  Englishmari,  ivho  began  by 
questicHiing  the  stud^ts,  why  the  citizens  of  Hartford  had 
.n(^  paved  the  streets.  They  gave  some  account  of  it, 
wMch  I  do  not  recollect;  but  it>  was  notsatisf:<ctory;  and 
one  of  our  company  attempted  to :  solve  the  diiBoulty,  by 
^Uleging  that  it  was  probably  with  a  view  of  encouraging 
the  growth  of  the  youi^  women.;  He  had  remarked^  that 
the  yoimg  ladies  of  Hartford  were  :unconim*^y  tall,  and, 
as  sap  and  seal  were  very  necessary  to  the  growtiiof  vege- 
taUe  substances,  and  the  citizens  of  Hartford  weie  a  phi- 
Ipaop^ical  people,  and  *^  full  of  notions,"  it  was  likely  they 
h^^ied  tiie  experinient  witii  the  aailmal  breation,  and  had 
succeeded.  The  students  were  iughlydii^erted,  andkughed 
heartily  at  what  they  called  his  odd  **  ^tlon.**  The  la- 
dies in  the  stage  were  too  young  to  attract  the  attention  of 
our  friend ;  but  many  a  remark  did  he  miake  on  those  we 
passedjwho, "  to  conceal  nothing,"  asGoldsmith  says,  "were 
certainly  very  handsome."  The  weather  was  delightful, 
and  the  view  of  the  country  vi^s  lughly  gratifying.  The 
fields  were  well  cultivated,  abounding  with  fruits  of  aHl 
3orts ;  and  we  purchased  from  a  countryman,  en  passant, 


CONNBCTICUT. 


121 


a  whole  basket  full  of  peaches  for  a  mere  trifle,  which  kept, 
us  well  supplied  in  fruit  the  whole  way  to  Newhaven.  .^ 
We  took,  as  we  were  informed,  a  new  road,  and,  pass-^ 
ing  several  villages  of  inferior  note,  we  reached  Walling- 
ford,  26  miles  from  Hartford,  about  12  o'clock.  Here 
we  had  a  delightful  view,  and  were  informed  that  this  dis- 
trict was  celebrated  for  raising  onions,  and  that  a  company 
of  young  girls  had  cultivated  that  root  so  successfully,  in 
a  neighbouring  town,  that  they  had  built  i\  church  with 
the  proceeds.  This  account  of  the  industry  of  thr.  yjung 
women  was  highly  gratifying,  and  we  were  really  delight- 
ed  with  their  blooming  countenances,  and  the  cleanly,  sub- 
stantial dress  which  they  wore.  It  was  plain  and  simple, 
but  so  much  the  better ; 

For  loveliness  *> 

iTeeds  not  the  foreign  aid  of  ornament, 
But  is,  when  unadom'd,  adorn'd  the  moat. ' 

;.,,■,        ,      ■■    ■  .     .  .  ■/  ■  .     ■  .' '> 

In  our  way  towards  Newhaven,  we  passed  through  a 
very  elegant  country,  where  we  had  a  number  of  fine 
views;  and  we  reached  the  great,  enlightened  cily  of  Con- 
necticut, at  2  o'clock.  Here  we  stopped  for  .dinner,  and 
we  had  some  little  time  to  take  a  view  of  the  town. 

Newhaven  is  a  handsome  city.  The  surrounding 
sceneiy  is  very  fine,  and  the  situation  pleasant^  and  &vou- 
rable  for  commerce.  It  is  built  on  a  considerable  bay,  on 
Long  Island  Soimd,  and  covers  part  of  a  pretty  extensive 
plain,  having  a  ri^ver  on  each  side  of  it.  The  streets  cross 
one  another  at  right  angles,  and  ^ere  is  a  square  in  the 
middle,  roimd  l^lnch  are  the  public  buildings,  which  have 
a  very  handsome  appearance.  They  are  the  colleges, 
State-House,  three,  congregational,    and    one  episcopal 

VOL.  I.  <^ 


<ti  - 


12^ 


.t<  TfiAVBU  IK 


tiburch.  I  regretted  that  my  time  did  not  permit  me  to 
see  the  College^  which  is  esteemed  one  of  the  best  semi- 
nttHeft  in  the  United  States,  and,  by  the  citizens  of  New. 
haven>  is  considered  the  very  best.  The  city  contains 
nearly  6000  inhabitants^  who  carry  on  a  very  active  trade 
with  New  York  and  the  West  Indies;  and  they  have  esta- 
blished ConsidemMe  manufactures)  which  are  said  to  be  in 
a  thiiving  state. 

We  took  our  d^atture  from  Newhaven  about-  4 
o^dOckf  and  travelling  thirteen  miles  through  a  pretty 
good  tract  of  country,  ak>ng  the  Sound,  we  readied  ilii/. 
Jhif/^j  a  considerable  town,  having  sevtinl  ehurchesi  and 
from  thence,  tlttou]g^  a  country  neariy  similar,  a^few  miles, 
we  passed  the  Housatonic  River y  by  a  letry.  'Das  river 
rises  about  the  borders  of  Massachusetts,  and  running  a 
south-east  course,  the  whole  breadth  of  the  state  of  Con- 
necticut, &lls  into  the  Sound  a  Utde  below  where  we 
crossed  it.  It  is  navigable  to  Derby,  twelve  miles  up, 
and  above  t!)at  is  very  important  for  n^ls  and  maohineTy; 
iiie  country  on  its  banks  is  said  to  be  veiy  romantic. 
Fbur  miles  Irom  this  river  we  passed  Stratfirdf  sl  plea- 
i§ant  town,  and  of -oonsiderable  extent ;  and  now  day-light 
£uled  us,  and  terminated  my  observations. 

We  continued  our  course  through  J^eij^A/ and  Mr- 
wtdky  ssdd  t6  be  considerable  and  pleasant  towns ;  and  at 
12  o'clock  readied  Stamford^  44  miles  from  Newhaven, 
where  we  stopped  for  die  night.  In  our  way,  we  passed 
a  number  of  rivers  of  ilifferior  note,  andfi^  of  the  eoun- 
try  appeared  to  be  rough,  and  the  road  vefjMbB^:  but  we 
Were  informed  that  a  new  line  of  tun!i(||feij[^d  was  in 
forwardness,  and  would  soon  be  fini^d,«r 


.,lw. 


qOJfN^CTICVT.  JlSi3 


'■%^ 


CHAFTBR  XVni. 


ij'.*' 


Connecticut 


•^v 


Is  skiiated  lietw^en  41°  a^  42°  north  latitude,  and  3° 
20'^  And  5^  fast  longitude;  Its  greatest  length  is  83  niile9> 
and  ^  greateat  i>readth  72.  Its  area  is  4400  square  miks, 
or  2,816,000  acres.  •  ': 

/ 1  'P»  faee  flf  #ie  country  is  agreeaUy  uneven.  To  the 
fputli  the  epa0l^e:(itends  along  the  sound  the  whok  length 
i0ftlpi?^laite,  and  ha^hwnyfiAe,  inlets,  which  are  higWy  ad' 
Vai^qgfQyp  ;to  jefflwrnarccvt  Towards  the  north-west  the 
co^Miy  swePa  0ul  into  high,  bn^en,  hiUy  lands,  but  the^ 
aife  no  iiiount»aia»  i  THi§  faiilly  country  is  said  to  be  vevy 
rQnmim^<  Whie  fitote  U  remai&ably'weU  watered^  abound- 
in^4«.^qi^r  $tneam9«  >'i^he  pi^eipa]  rivers  are  Connfaoti- 
eut^^wid  Umsmimy.2i\ff9»l^  mentioned ;  and  the  Thai9^ 
This  last  river  is  formed  at  Nocmch  of  two  brandies,  call- 
ed Shetufsket^aod  lat^  m&s ;  and  thence  runs  a  due  south 
Goiirse^  14  ii#PS,  to  the  sound.  It  has  a  fine  harbour,  at 
New  London^iBnd  is  navigable  for  sm^  vessels  to  Nor- 
wich.--     -I;  i,:..- 

Iron  ore  is  Ibund  in  the  state,  in  great  abundance,  and 
l^id,  Cf^^xer,  .^od'  zinc  have  also  been  discovered,  though 
in  itogfeat quantities.  Pit^soalhas  been  found,  but,  I  be- 
lieve, not  kisnii&cient  quantitjrto  induce  the  inhabitants  to 
dig  for  it.^ ;  There  are  a  number  iof  mineral  springs  in  the 
state;  Ihe  most  im|)ortant  is  in  Lichfield  county,  which  is 


124  CONNECTICUT. 

t 

hi^y  impregnated  with  carBonic  acid  gas,  and  sulphurat- 
ed hydrogen  gas;  and  is  said  to  be  very  useful  in  curing 
various  diseases,  particularly  dyspepsia,  rheumatism,  and 
those  of  the  cutaneous  kind. 

'■:  The  soil  is  various,  some  parts  being  poor  and  sandy, 
dnd  some  very  fertile;  generally  speaking,  there  is  a  great 
deal  of  good  huid,  and  the  state  is  remarkably  well  calcu- 
lated for  grazing.      - 

The  climate  is  subject  to  great  and  sudden  changes,  pass- 
ing to  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold ;  but  it  is  very  healthy, 
and  the  state  abounds  with  remarkable  instances  of  km. 
gevity.  ••    ■  •/  •  ..K .''.,-:  • 

The  firs^  settlement  Was  made  in  1ll!f  year  1633)  by 
some  Dutch  and  English  traders  with  the  Indians;  "Ih 
1662,  a  charter  was  granted  by  Charies  the  2d,  wMch  ^11 
swerves  as  the  baas  of  the  me  govemnffent;  and^hfeh, 
fh>m  the  ign^wice  of  the  British  government^  at  that  lime, 
of  the  geography  of  the  country,  has  involved  some>  ^- 
gukr  disputes  about  land  titles.  Connecticut  bore  ai»  ac- 
tive share  in  the  war  for  independence;*  and  itow  forms^  a 
•very  important  state  in  the  union,  sending  two  senators 
and  seven  representatives  to  congitess. 
'  The  state  is  divided  into  eight  countiies  and  107  town- 
sl^ps.  The  population,  in  1800,  was  251^002;  including 
951  slaves,  being  about  57  to  a  squane  'mile.  ^^^^ 

The  country  is  highly  improved,  and  abounds  with 
handsome  towns,  villages,  and  ferm-houses^  There  are 
five  incorporated  cities,  viz.  Bartjord,  AfewAaven,  Mw 
Londorty  Norwick,  and  Mtddletawrii.  The  two  &«t  have 
been  noticed.  New  London  is  handsomely  situated  on 
the  Thames,  and»has  an  excellent  harbour,  and  extensive 
trade.    It  contains  upwards  of  3000  inhabit»its,  and  has 


COXNECTICUT. 


125 


a  bttiky'and  three  houses  for  public  worship;    Nonmek 
is  on  the  same  river,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and  has  nu- 
merous manufiictures  and  an  extensive  trade.    It  contains 
nearly  3000  inhabitants,  and  has  a  court-house,  a  bank,  an 
insurance  company,  an  academy,  and  three  places  for  pub> 
lie  worship.    Middietawn,  situated  on  Connecticut  river, 
15  miles  below  Hartford,  contains  about  2000  inhabitants, 
and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade.    There  is  a  bank,  an 
insurance  company,  a  court-house  and  two  places  for  pub- 
lic worship  in- the  city.    Lichfield  is  a  fine  town,  contain- 
ing upwards  of  4000  people*    It  is  beautifully  situated  in 
an  elevated  part  of  the  state,  and  has  ^a  court-house,  meet- 
ing-house, and  academy.     JFethersfield  is  thfe  oldest  town 
in  the  state/  apd  is  remarkable  for  the  Culture  of  onions. 
The  other  villages  are  num^poni,  the  whole  state  being 
studded  with  ^m,  containi^  from  500  to  1500  or  2000 
inhabitants;  among  others  may  be  mentioned  Danbury^ 
Wmdhamy  Haddam^  and  ToUand,    The  houses  are  gene- 
rally built  of  wood,  on  a  handsome  plan,  and  are  painted 
wdiite;  which  gives  the  country  an  air  of  great  cleanliness 
and  neatness.     This  enterprising  little  state  first  set  the 
example  of  making  turnpike  roads  in  New  England,  and 
these  and  other  good  roads  are  so  abundant,  that  travel- 
ling is  facilitated  in  all  directions.    There  are  a  number 
of  bridges  in  the  s^e,  some  of  them  constructed  at  great 
expenoe,  which  are  of  great  utility. 

The  agriculture  of  the  state  is  in  a  condition  which 
speaks  volumes  in  praise  of  equal  laws.  There  is  no  feu- 
did  system,  and  no  law  of  primogeniture ;  hence  there  are 
no  overgrown  estates  on  the  one  hand,  and  few  of  those 
employed  in  agriculture  are  depressed  by  poverty  on  the 
other.    The  farms  arc  generally  fixjm  50  to  500  acres-, 


id6 


coMMCOTioirr. 


cukkated  by  a  hardy,  industrioua  race,  whose  labour  is 
rewarded  by  the  bleaaing;!  of  heaven  in  *'  peace*  and  health, 
and  sweet  content."  But  it  is  said,  that  all  the  sons  of 
Connecticut  are  not  thus  wise.  There  is  a  superabun- 
dance of  iht  learned  professions,  pEirticularly  in  the  law  de- 
partment, who  keep  the  state  embroiled  in  litigation. 
**  God  made  man  upright,  but  they  have  sought  out  many 
inventions."  The  produce  of  the  state  is  wheat,  rye,  In- 
dian com,  oats,  barley,  buck-wheat,  flax,  a  large  quantity, 
and  some  hemp,  with  a  great  variety  of  vegetables,  and 
fruit.  The  soil  is  well  adapted  to  grazing,  and  vast  quan- 
tities of  cheese  and'butter  are  made;  and  much  pork  is 
cured.  Cyder  is  also  made  in  great  plenty  and  peti- 
tion. 

The  farmers  of  Conne«tij|ut,  and  their  femilies,  are  ge- 
nerally dressed  in  cloth  of  their  own  mannfiM^ture,  which 
is  substantial  and  good ;  and  there  are  considerafale  and 
very  important  manu&ctures,  on' a  larger  scale^  throughout 
tbe  state,  via.  woollens,  linens,  cottons,  leather  of  every 
description,  hats,  stockings,  paper,  wire,  bells,  soap,  can- 
dles, oil,  clocks  and  watches,  earthen  and  stone  ware,  chaiaes, 
harness,  &€i 

The  state  has  a  very  considerable  coasting  and  foreign 
trade.  The  exports,  in  1805, amounted  to  l,443,729dol. 
lars.  They  are  principally  to  the  West  India  islands,  eon- 
sisting  of  live  stock,  timber,  grain,  fruit,  fish,  and  provi- 
sions. The  imports  consist  of  manufactured  piece  goods 
of  the  finer  kinds,  wines,  and  groceries. 

The  population  of  Connecticut  consists  of  fermers,  me- 
chanics, rnanu&cturers,  ministers  of  religion,  inatruetors 
of  youth,  doctors  of  medicine,  and  lawyers.  There  am  no 
idle  people  to  be  seen,  although  it  is  said  that  too  many 


CONNECTIOUT. 


127 


ore  engaged  in  the  learned  professions,  and  Connecticut 
sends  out  a  full  proportion  of  luminaries  annually,  to  en- 
lighten other  states.  Education  is  upon  an  excellent  foot- 
ing, and  the  school  fund  is  more  ample  than  that  of  any 
other  state.  The  college  at  Newhaven,  which  is  named 
Yale  College,  has  been  already  noticed,  and  academies  have 
been  established  at  Greenfield,  Plainfield,  Canterbury,  Nor- 
wich, Windham,  and  Pomfret.  The  law  directs  that  a 
gramnuur  school  shall  be  kept  in  every  county  town 
throughout  the  state ;  but  the  great,  popular,  and  perma- 
nent advantage  on  this  branch,  arises  from  the  establish- 
ment of  schools  in  every  township,  being  an  arrangement 
similar  to  the  parish  schools  of  Scotland,  and  which  pro* 
duoed  similar  effects,  a  general  diffusion  of  knowledge, 
'*  steady  habits,"  and  sobriety  of  manners.  In  religion, 
the  form  of  church  government  is  generally  congregational 
or  pre8b3rterian,  but  every  other  form  may  be  freely  exer- 
cised. The  form  of 'government  is'  derived  from  the  an- 
cient charter;  by  which  the  legislative  authority  is  vested 
in  a  governor,  deputy  governor,  twelve  assistants  or  cpun- 
aettors,  and  the  representatives  of  the  people,  styled  the 
Oeneral  Assembly,  They  are  divided  into  two  branches, 
of  which  the  governor,  deputy  governor,  and  assistants 
form  one,  and  the  representatives  the  other ;  and  no  law 
can  pass  widiout  the  concurrence  of  both.  The  gover- 
nors and  assistants  are  choseiji  annually,  and  the  represent 
tatives,  who  must  not  exceed  two  for  each  town,  are  chosen 
twice  each  year,  ^he  sufege  is  universal,  every  freeman 
who  is  of  age  haing  a  vote,  without  regard  to  propert}% 


.;s; 


•»♦ 


128 


TRAVELS   IN 


w  ■ 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


■•  '%\<^- 


Horseneck, — Harlem., — New-York. 

September  e.  This  momlng^  at  a  o'clock,  we  took 
our  seats  in  the  stage.  I  was  diverted  by  sr dialogue  be- 
tw^  the  two  drivers,  in  .^vhich  the  word  ^ess  occurred 
so^,^quently,  that  I  could  hardly  hear  any 'thing  else. 
"  I  guess  this  string's  n<Jt  loOg  enough.  "  O  yes,  I  guess 
it  is."  O  yt%,J  guess  Til  make  it  do."  "There,—! 
«#  guess  you've  fixed  it"  "  Yes,  I  guess  you  guess  right." 
Leaving  Stanford  we  passed  several  creeks.  The  morn- 
ing was  raw  and  foggy.  At  the  dawn  of  day,  we  reach- 
ed a  considerable  rising  ground,  called  Horseneck,  and 
we  alighted,  and  walked  up  the  hill,  by  a  winding  road. 
Here  we  were  told  a  singular  anecdote  of  Major  Putnam. 
A  part  of  the  British  armyj  were  encamped  not  &r  firom 
this  hill,  and  the  niajoc' went  to  the  top  of  it,  in  a  fog,  to 
reconnoitre;  just  as  he  reached  the  top,  the  fog  cleared 
away,  and  he  found  himself  close  by  a  coi^  of  British 
cavalry,  who  immediately  pursued  him.  He  clapped 
spurs  to  his  horse,  and,  not  having  time  to  keep  the  road, 
galloped  right  down  the  hill,  and,  Strang  to  tell!  reached 
the  plain  unhurt ;  and  thus  eluded  his  pursuers.  A  few 
miles  from  thence  we  passed  Byram  River,  and  entered  the 
state  of  New  York. 


NtW  YOtLK* 


1^$^ 


we  took 
3gue  be- 
ocpvirred 
ling  else, 
i,  I  guess 
rhere,— I 
ss  right." 
he  mom- 
ive  reaeh- 
teck,  and 
road. 
Putnam, 
fu^firom 
a  fog,  to 
cleared 
ii  British 
clapped 
the  road, 
reached 
A  few 
iteredthe 


'The  first  township  we  came  to  in  this  state  was  Kye, 
containing  about  1000  inhabitants.  The  soil  appeared 
pretty  good,  but  the  face  of  the  cpuntiy  is  rough  and 
stony.  We  continued  our  course  through  East  and  West 
Chester,  both  considerable  townships ;  near  the  last  is « 
manufacture  of  earthen  ware,  said  to  be  in  a  thriving  states 
The  soil  in  this  district  seems  to  be  poor  and  sandy  5  but 
we  were  informed  k  was  well  calculated  for  sheep  kid 
cattle,  the  flocks  of  which  were  encieasing.  •^- 

Nine  miles  J&om  New  York,  we  passed  into  York ; 
Island,  by  a  Wjooden  bridge,  at  Haiienn;   and,  continue 
ing  our  course'Ji)irbn^  the  mid^  of  ^e  island,  whickt 
abounds   widi   numerous   villas   and  {^easure-grounda^'. 
generally  the  property  of  the  merchants  of  New  Ycm4c, 
we  reached  the  city  at  ten  o'clock.    I  was  highly  gratifi- 
ed by  my  tour  to  th,e  New  England  states^ 

I  continued  in  New  York,  transacting  various  mercan^^r 
tile  business^  until  the  25th  of  September ;  during  which^ ' 
time,  I  again  called  on  Thomas  Paine,  in  comp^  with 
his  Mend,  formerly '  mentioned*    Paine  was  still  at  th^ 
house.of  M»^  Palmer,  but  his  leg  liad  got  much  better, 
and  he  was  in  good  spirits^    News  had  arrived  that  mom-^ 
ing,  that  a  peace  had  been  concluded' between  France  and 
England;  but  Psune  said,  he  did  not  believe  it;  and  iaigdy^^ 
a£nnedy  that  while  the  present  form  of  government  lasted 
in  England,  there  would  be  ho  peace.     The  government 
was  committed  in  a  war  system,  and  would  pro^cutie  4t 
as  long  as  they  could  command  the  means.  •  Hi^' thett 
turned  up  a  newspaper,  which  had  recentiy  been  establish- 
ed at  New  York,  and,  after  iiea&g  several  paragraphs^  hd 
observed  that  he  could  not  understand  what  th^  "editor 
vvas  driving  at    He  pretended  to  be  a  great  frfend  of 


VOL.    I. 


» 


# 


lao 


TBiiyELS  IN 


Bntain)  and  yet  he  was  oonstantly  wrifkg  against  peace, 
and  the  best  interests  of  the  country ;  and  in  place  of  be. 
ing  guided  by  the  plain  dictates  ofi.common  se^ise,  he 
aimed  at  flowery,  embellished  language^  and  glided  away 
intQ  the  ^ry  regions  of  speculative  nonsense,  more  like  a 
madman  than"  the  editor  of  a  newspaper.  After  a  good 
deai  pf  general  conversation,  we  took  our  leave. 

A  lew  days  thereafter,  his  friend  handed  me  a  piece  in 
MS.,  intended  for  the  inewspapers ;  and  requested  me  to 
copy  it,  and  keep  the  original ;  and  a&  Paine  has  made  a 
great  noise  in  theaworkl,  I  shsdl  here  insert  it,  as  a  rdick 
Oif  ^Xii  extraordinary  political  character,  and  as  a  very  good 
^peeimen  of  the  ficuteiiess  of  his  mindf  and  his  turn  for 
W^  it  the  advanced  age  of  70.  i^qov;      ' 


'•^Hfwas: 


em'-'i:> 


^*  For  tfie  Citiztiu 


^f\\  must  tie  fi  gv^t  consolntion  to  poor  iMr.  -t«^!&  friends, 
if  he  has  any,  toj  l^eap  that  his  insanity  hicreases  beyond  all 
hopef»  o(j  recovery*  i  His  C9m  is  truly  pitiable  x,  I  he  works 
h^  ajt  t^  ^de  pf^Q^scMef'^making;  bintiieisnot  a  good 
hsm4  fit  it,  fqr  the  Cfiseisr  that  the  ntore  he  labours,  th( 
lil^ore  h§  iii  laughed  at^and  his  malady  increases  with  eveij 

^  f^Jn  his  paper  of  Thursday,  September  18th,  the  spirit 
^pifp^iecy  seizes  him,  and  he  leaps  from  the  earth,  gets 
iiBtBld^  (^  a  cloud,  and  predicts  universal  darkness  to  the 
|llhM>iMt8  of  this  lower  WQiid. 

t**  Spgaking  of  the  rumours  of  peace  between  France  and  \ 
J^pgl^ndr  he  says,  *  we  wiU:  not  believe  it  till  we  see  it 
gazetted  (meatung  in  thci  X^pndon  Gazette),  and  then,*  says  | 
he,  *  wewiWaver,  thst  the  sun  which  dawns  upon  that 


i'i 


,.«P«v 


WW  YORK, 


131 


a  piece  in 
ited  me  to 
las  made  a 
as  a  retick 
very  good 
is  turn  for 


event  will  be  the  darkest  that  ever  rose  (dnce  the  trans- 
gression of  our  first  parents  brought  sin  into  the  world.' 
This  is  the  first  time  we  ever  heard  of  the  sun  shining 
darkness.  But  darkness  or  light,  sense  or  nonsense,  sun^ 
shine  or  moonshine/  are  all  alike  to  a  lunatic. — He  then 
goes  on.  *  In  a  rcontinuance,'  says  he,  '  of  war  only 
can  Britain  look  for  salvatbn.  That  star  once  extinguish- 
ed, all  will  be  darkness  and  eternal  night  over  the  face  of 
the  creatiop*'—- The  devUitwill!  And  jMray,  Mr;  s-^*-*, 
will  the  moofSi  shine  darkness  too?  and  will  all  thefrsts^ 
twinkle  darkness?  If  that  should  be  the  case,  you  had 
better  sell  your  |Mress^  and  set  up  tallow-chandler.  There 
will  be  more  demand  for  candles  than  for  new^pers, 
when  those  dark  days  come. 

*^  But  as  you  are  a  man  that  write  for  a  livelihood,  and 
I  suppose  you  find  it  hard  wcnrk  to  rub  on,  I  would  ad- 
vise you,  as  a  friend,  not  to  lay  out  all  your  cash  upon 
candle-making,  for  my  opinion  is,  that,  whether  England 
make  peace  or  not,  or  whether  she  is  conquered  or  not 
conquered,  that  the  sun  will  rise  as  glorious,  and  shine  as 
bright  on  that  day,  as  if  no  sueh  triBing  things  had  hap- 
|)ened." 

It  appeared  in  the  sequel,  that  Paine  was  correct  in  his 
opinion^  and  the  editor  was  gratified  in  his  wish — there 
was  no  peace. 


vn 


■  >^*?«<\^-  ■.->  ■'^^m^'y-\^^' 


132 


ytmr  YORK, 


■J.  r^'i"rtimt^:'h>:f 


■  )  ■' 


■  v^t-iy 


'^■^m^ 


CHAPTER  XX. 


,     ^'h  New  York. 

This  ihteresting  state  is  situated  betWeen  40®  33'  and 
4j5«  tt&rth  latitude,  and  3°  43'  east,  and  2«>  43'  we^t  lon^- 
tude?"  its  extrertie  leingth,  from  east  to  west,  bemg  340, 
aiid  extreme  breadth^  from  noitftto  sotith,  317  miles; 
but  it  is  very  irregular.  The  square  contents  amount  to 
abdut  52,125  square  miles,  or  33,360,000  acres;  being 
1^8,000  square  miles  larger  than  Scotland. 
--'There  is  a  vast  viai^iety  in'  the  fecfe  of  the  country.  Long 
Mand  and  Staten  Island  are  ^tuated  at  its  southern  extre* 
itilty,  and  are  interesting.  The  state  is  boundied  by  Gon- 
rtcfeticut  on  the  east,  'New  Jersey  on  die  west,  extending 
in  breadth  to  the  highlands,  witli  ah  agreeably  uiieven  sur< 
face.  Fit>m  the  highlands,  about  50  miles  abovie  New 
York,  the  state  is  hilly,  in  many  places  mountainous,  and 
the  hills  continue  to  the  extremity  of  the  state  northward, 
and  to  Utica  westward.  From  thence  to  its  western  e2i- 
tfemity,  nearly  300  miles,  there  is  a  most  elegant  country, 
rifch  and  wdl  watered^  having  spurs  of  the  Allegany^  moun- 
tains  on  the  one  side,  and  oh  the  other  the  lakes  Ontario 
and  Erie,  two  of  the  finest  sheets  of  water  in  the  world. 
The  lakes  are  so  numerous,  that  the  bare  mention  of  the 
namek  tif  the  most  important  must  suffice  in  this  place. 
Besides  th^  large  lakes,  there  are  Lake  Qhamplain^  Lake 
Oeorgey  Oneida^  OnorKhgo,  Skeneateless,  Owascu,  Ca- 


NSW  TOKK. 


las 


)o  33'  and 
ire^t  longi- 
jeing  340, 
17  miles; 
amount  to 
€S ;   being 

Ltry.   Long 
hern  extre- 
jd  by  Gon. 
extending 
ineven  sur- 
ibove  New 
unous,  and 
northward, 
esteme^t- 
it  country, 
ly^moun- 
:es  Ontario 
the  world, 
itionof  the 
this  place. 
»fom,  Lake 
fosca,  Ca- 


yuga,  Seneca,  Carumdagua,  snd  Chataughque.  Tlie  prin- 
cipal rivers  are  the  Hudson,  the  Mohawk,  the  Oneida^ 
and  the  Genesee.  The  Hudson  rises  in  the  mountains, 
above  the  44th  degree  of  north  latitude,  pursues  a  south 
course  about  250  miles,  and  forms  a  junction  with  the 
East  River  at  New  York.  This  river  is  navigable  for 
sea  vessels  through  the  mountains  to  Albany  and  Troy ; 
and  for  smaller  vessels,  a  considerable  way  above  Troy. 
The  tide  flows  165  miles  up  this  river;  .The  Mohawk 
rises  near  Oneida  Lake,  and,  running  a  south-east  course 
upwards  of  100  miles,  faUs  into  the  Hudson  8  miles  above 
Albany.  The  navigation  of  this  river  b  obstructed  by 
the  Cohoes  falls,  near  its  outlet,  and  the  litde  &Us  about  70 
miles  above  that ;  but  goods  and  produce  are  carried  by  land 
between  Albany  and  Shenectady,  15  miles;  and  there  be- 
ing- a  canal  round  the  little  falls,  the  navigation  is  complete 
to  the  portage  near  its  source,  where  it  communicates  by 
ano^r  canal  with  Wood  Creek,  and  from  thence  with' 
Lake  Ontario.  Oneida  River  has  its  source  (in  .Oneida 
Lake,  from  whence  it  runs  about  40  miles  to  Lake  Onta* 
no.  It  is  navigable  by  boats  to  the  falls,  where  there  is 
a  portage,  fit)m  whence  it  is  again  navigable  to  the  lake, 
and  thence,  through  Wood  Creek  and  the  portage,  to 
the  Mohawk  River.  This  river  is  of  great  importance,,  as 
it  forms  part  of  the  chain  of  communication  betweeift  the 
Hudson  and  the  lakes ;  and,  through  the  medium  of  Se- 
neca River,  it  may,  in  process  of  time,  form  also  an  im- 
portant communication  between  Lake  Ontario  and  the 
smaiUer  but  very  important  lakes  in  the  interior  of  the 
country »  Genesee  River  rises  in  the  state  of  Penngylvania, 
and^  running  a  northern,  course  tlirough  the  Genesee 
country  nearly  lOOxnBes,  falls  into  Lake  Ontario.    The 


134 


STEW   YORK. 


navigation  of  this  river  is  obstructed  by  fallsi  but  U 
abounds  with  mill-seats,  and  has  rich,  fertile  banks.  The 
great  JRwer  St,  Laxvrence  bounds  the  state  on  the  north, 
to  the  easf  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  receives  several  important 
streams  in  that  district:  and  on  the  west  is  the  Niagara 
River,  the  communication  between  Lake  Erie  and  Lake 
Ontario,  on  which  are  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  one  of 'the 
greatest  wonders  in  the  world.  This  river  is  navigable 
to  witliin  9  milefr  of  the  falls;  and  again,  from  2  miles 
above  the  falls  to  Lake  Erie.  The  pcnrtage  round  the 
falls  is  10  miles,  and,  were  a  canal  cut,  it  would  complete 
tlie  navigation  between  the  lakes,  and  open  an  inland  navi- 
gation of  gf eater  extent  than  is  to  be  found  m  the  world. 
The  head  waters  of  the  Allegany,  Susc^hannab,  and  De^ 
laware  Rivers  are  in  the  southern  part  of  this  state.     ^ 

The  state  abounds  with  iron  ore  and  lead;  copper  and 
zinc  have  been  found  in  various  places.  Silver  has  been 
found,  but  in  no  great  quantity.  Marble  abounds,  and  is 
of  an  excellent  quality.  Freestone  and  slate  are  in  plenty, 
Plaster  of  Paris  i^  found  in  great  variety ,  and  is  used  witfi 
good  effect  as  raahure.  Isinglass  and  su^bur  are  common 
ia  miany  places ;  and  coal  has  also  been  found,  but  in  no 
great  quantity. — The  salt»springs  at  Onondago  are  very 
strongs  and  produce  an  immense  quantity  of  that  useful 
article.  There  are  many  stilphur<^^rings,  and  several  au; 
springs,  which  last  are  probably  the  gas  arising  from  the 
cconbustion  of  pit.  coal.  There  is  a  medicin^  spring  at 
Lebanon,  which  ai&rds  a  pleasant  bath,  air  tiie  tempemtttFe 
of  72^,  and  is  mu4th  frequented;  but  the  most  remarkable 
sprktgs  in  this  stat6^'  or,  indeed^  in  the  United  StateSf  are 
those  of  Balaton  and  Saratoga.  These  waters  aie  highly 
medicinal,  aodare  of  great  efEcapy  in  (fyspepsia  and  other 


m- 


NEW  YORK. 


135 


complaints;    and  are  much  frequented  in  the  summer 
season.  /    ■^-  .■■  •■  -    , 

The  soil,  in  such  an  extent  of  country^  must  be  va> 
rious.  The  southern  and  eastern  {uut  is  a  dry  gravel, 
mixed  with  loam,' and  is  not  very  rich;  the  mountainouii 
part  is  pretty  well  adapted  for  grazing,  and  there  are  ripli 
valleys  on  the  livers.  The  whole  of  the  northern  and 
western  part  is  rich  and  fertile,  except  a-  small  portion 
bordering  on  the  rState  of  Pennsylvania,  which,  however, 
is  interspersed  with  fertile  lands.         /   ;  ^ 

The^imate  is<  also  various.  In  that  part  which  lies  to 
the  south  of  th^  higd^ands,  it  is  remai^kably  changeable; 
it  experiences  aH>^  regions  of  heat  and, cold,  and  some- 
times a  ohang^^cf  30  degrees  in  the  course  of  24  hours. 
Among  the  mountains,  and  along  Lake  Champlain,  to- 
wards Canada^  ^winters  are  long  and  severe,  and  the 
summers  are  sometimes  veiy  sultry  and  hot.  In  tile  wes- 
tern distiict,  the  climate  is  niore  temperate,  and  the  win- 
ters are  subject  to  a  good  deal  of  rain;  but  the  whole 
country  is  healthy,  the  neighbourhood  of  ponds-  and  un- 
drained  morasses  excepted*  The  winter  commences 
about  Cliristmas^  and  ends  with  February;  but  March 
and  April  are  sometimes  oold  months. 
'  Captain  Hudson^  &  Dutch  navigator,  discovered  Hud- 
son's I^vcr,  m  the  year  1609,  and  about  the  year  1615, 
the  Dutch  took  formal  possession  of  the  country,  and 
formed  a  settlement,  at  the  mouth  of  Hudson's  River, 
c^led  New  Amsterdam,  and  another  160  miles  up  the 
river,  called  Fort-Orange.  In  1664,  Charles  II  made  a 
grant  of  the  country  to  his  brother,  the  duke  of  Yorie,  amd  an 
army  of  3000  men  )\vas  sent  -to  take  possession  of  it,  which 
they  easily  accomplished,  and  <:hanged  the  name  of  New 


1S6 


XEW   YOBK. 


Amsterdamrto  Ntw  Yorky  and  Fort  Orange  XoAUumy,  In 
1774,  Ne\y  York  took  an  active  part  in  tlie  revolutionary 
war,  and  sent  four  .delegates  to  the  gent^ral  cotigcess.  The 
state  constitution  yvs^  framed  in  1777,  and  revised  as  it 
now  stands  in  J80il»  The  state  sends  two  senators  and 
^7  representativiea  tp  congress. 

%  The  state  is  divided  into  43*  counties,  and  about  300 
townships.  The  population  in  1800  was  536,203  inclu- 
ding 20,613  slaye;» ;,  being  about  11.  to>^  square  mile. 
^^This  state  has.  progressed  rapidly  in  ipopulation,  wealth, 
and  improven^ents*  There  are  four:  incorporated  cities, 
o£  which  New  York,  already  noticedij  k  the  chief.  The 
otfiers  are  Mbant/jf  Mudsan,  and  Skemttdf^r 

Alb  AN  Y  is  the  seat  of  government^  iuui  contained,  by 
the  c^n^us  of  1^00,  about  7000  inhalMitants ;  but  they 
have  singe  much  increased.  It  is  a  place  ot  considerable 
trade,  and  fast  rising  into  importancciw.  jififti     ,    «i'ii«ftifu 

Hudson  is.  situated  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,-  and, 
though  only  laid  out  in  1784^  such  has  been  the  rapidity 
of  its  growth,  that  it  contained,  by  the  census  of  1800, 
nearly  3000  inhabitants.  They  have  here  a  very  consider, 
able  trade,;  aiid  elegant  packets  to  and  from  New  York* 
.Skenectady  is  a  handsome,  well-built  city,  on  the  Mo« 
hawk  river,  i|l6  niiles  from  ^Ibany,  and,  by  Jie  census  of 
1800,  contained  5289  inhaj^itants.  It  is  a  place  of  consi- 
derable trade,  and  has  a  bank,  a  college,  and  three  places 
for  public  worsMp. 

The  other  most  important  towns  and  villages  are  New* 

burgf  PjQughkeepsiey  Troy,  Lamingburg,  said  Waterfifd^ 

on  theJiudson ;  Uticay  Herkimer y  and^Qmey  on  the  Mo* 

hawk ;  and  SkeneatelesSy  Ge^evoy  Camndaiguay  and  -Buf- 

fab  to  the  westward^j^  llie  houses  are  generally  substan- 


HBW  YOBK. 


137 


tially  built,  and  are  a  good  deal  siimlar  to  those  in  the 
New  England  states.  The  roads^  bridges,  and  canals 
are  ftumerous,  and  of  great  importance. 

The  agriculture  of  the  state  is  far  advanced.  The  sta« 
pie  cOtiwAodity  is  flour,  of  which  a  vast  quantity  is  made 
annually  for  exportation ;  and  the  state  raises  all  the  other 
kinds  of  produce^  mentioned  in  the  accbunt  of  the  New 
^gland' states. 

The  manb&ctures  of  the  state  are  considerable,  and  in- 
creasing ;  particularly  the  articles  of  glass,  ashes,  iron- ware 
of  various  descriptions,  leather  of  all  kinds,  hats,  carriages, 
paper  and  printing,  pottery  ware,  umbrellas,  mathematical 
and  musical  instruments.  The  commerce  of  the  state  is 
exceedingly  extended,  and  has  been  alluded  to  in  the  ac- 
couit  of  New  York ;  besides  which,  there  is  a  great  com- 
merce on  the  lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  with  Canada. 

The  society  in  this  state  is  very  mixed.  The  city  and 
southern  part  of  the  state,  and  along  the  Hudson  and  Mo- 
hawk rivers,  are  mostly  of  Dutch,  Scottish,  and  Irish  ex- 
traction. To  the  west,  the  majority  are  New  Englanders ; 
but  the  whole  harmonise  and  unite  in  this  free  country, 
and  will  sooii  form  one  mass  of  republicans.  Educati6n 
was,  for  a  time,  considerably  neglected ;  but  it  is  now  well 
attended  to,  con^derable  funds  being  appropriated  to  the 
support  of  it.  There  are  several  colleges  in  the  state,  and 
many  academies :  a  taste  for  knowledge  is  increasing,  and 
\vith  it  will  increase  the  good  sense  of  the  community, 
a(nd  every  useful  art. 

The  government  of  the  state  is  vested  in  a  governor, 
lieutenant-governor,  senate,  and  house  of  representeitives. 
The  governor  and  lieutenant-governor  are  elected  for  three 
vears;  the  senators  for  four;  and  the  assemblymen  are 

VOL.    K  S 


** 


138 


VBW  TOBK. 


chosen  annually*  The  necessary  qualifications  for  the  elec- 
tors, are  six  months  residence  in  the  state  previous  to  the 
election ;  the  possession  of  a  freehold  of  >C.  20  value,  or  to 
have  rented  a  tenement  of  the  value  of  40  shillings  yearly ; 
and  to  have  been  rated  on  the  polls,  and  actually  paid 
taxes  to  the  state. 

The  funds  of  this  state  are  reported  to  be  in  a  most 
flourishing  situation ;  and  such  is  the  increase  in  wealth 
and  population,  that  it  is  considered  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant  states  in  the  union. 


^^1' 


# 


i>-' 


w^  ■''■■»'•  w      .7"''/'^»',    jS".™^  ■ 


NIW  IBIBBV. 


139 


.<N»^>.:: 


GHAFTBR  XXI. 


Jersey, — Brunswick^ — Princeton, — Treht&n, 

Wednesday,  September  24.  Having  finished  my 
business  in  New  York,  I  took  leave  of  my  friends,  and  cross* 
ed  Hudson's  river,  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The 
day  was  dull  and  cloudy,  so  that  I  could  see  but  litde ; 
but  being  quite  in  the  humour  for  making  inquiries  re- 
garding thb  extennve  country,  I  took  my  place  on  the 
fore-seat  beside  the  driver.  It  surprised  me  to  observe 
kow  well  informed  this  class  of  people  are  in  America.  In 
my  journey  through  the  New  England  states,  I  was  high- 
ly gratified  by  the  prompt  and  accurate  answers  which  they 
TiMde  to  my  questions ;  and  I  resolved  to  follow  the  same 
plan  of  obtaining  information  throu^iout  my  tour. 
'  We  took  our  departure  at  9  o'clock,  from  a  little  town 
edkd  Jersey,  which  is  the  landing-place  from  New  York, 
kad  tmvelled  a  few  miles  through  a  country  rather  stony 
i&id  sandy,  to  Bergen,  a  small  viUage  having  a  church,  and 
said  to  be  inhabited  mostly  by  Dutch  people.  A  little 
fimher  OH,  we  reached  Hackensack  river,  which  we  passed 
by  a  toll-bridge,  and  immediately  entered  into  a  very  ex- 
tt^siv6  SWiMipy  through  wluch  the  road  is  cut  at  a  consi- 
derable expence.  This  swamp  is  said  to  be  50  miles  long, 
and  about  four  broad,  and  abounds  with  grass  of  a  very 
stinong  kbfld,  but  it  must  be  difficult  to  gather  it.  We  saw, 
however^  that  it  had  been  all  tut  during  the  summer.  We 

» 

i 


^i 


140 


rukymia  m 


were  much  molested  with  muaquetoes  of  a  very  large  size, 
during  our  passage  through  it ;  soon  after  which  we  pass- 
ed the  Passaic  river,  and  arrived  at  Newark,  nine  miles 
from  New  York.  .4.  »^ 

fiHackemack  river  ,i7bcs  iof  Ifew  York  state,  and  nmning 
a  south-east  course  falls  into  Newark  bay,  a  little  below 
where  we  crossed  it.^  It  ^  navigable  15  miles  up  the 
country.  Passaic  river  rises  in  the  interior  of  the  country, 
an^  mniung  upwards  of  50  miles,  by  a  very  winding  course, 
£iUs  1  into  Newark  bay.  It  is  navigable  about  10  miles ; 
an^'  about  14  miles  from  it^  outlet,  th^  are  falls  on  it  of 
70  f0et  fierpendicular,  which  form  one  of  the  greatest  curi- 
osities in*  tlit  stat^,  and  constitute  a  line  situation  for  mill, 
seats*  at  which  a  cQttpn  manufactoiy  has  been  recently  es- 
tablished. Mj»  It  '»!)•[- 
rr  Newark  U  a  beautiful  village,  regularly  laid  out  in  broad 
streets*  on  a  fine  plain,  and  contains  nearly  2000  inhabi- 
tants/ The  public  buildings  are  two  places  for  public 
ytfxMpi  a  court-house,  and  academy.  Considerable  manu- 
factures isre  carried  on  here,  particularly  of  leather.  The 
inhabitants  have  likewise  a  pretty  extensive  inhnd  trade ; 
and  have  a  bank  to  facilitate  their  commercial  opcirattions. 
The  country  is  well  cultivated  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
Newark  b  remarkable  for  the  goodness  of  the  cyder,  of 
which  a  large  quantity  Is  made  here  annually. 
#  ;Si3^  mile^  beyond  Newark  is  Elizabethtown,  contaimng 
two  churches  and  an  acadismy*  It  is  a  pretty  .little  place, 
and  the  land  itf  its  neighbourhood  is  fertile,,  (and  well  culti- 
vated*   '=  ■-''^'    ■'■•'■        V  ■ 

Ton  miles  from  thence,  through  a  pretty  fertile  country, 
W^  re$i$hed  PToodbridgej  a  small  village,  where  wje  stopped 
fof  dinner,  at  1  o'clock.  .The  day  was  rainy  and  disa- 


J* 


VBW  JlBtBT. 


141 


gieetble,  so  that  there  was  no  great  pleasure  in  viewing 
the  oountiy ;  and  as  to  amusement  in  tlie  stage,  I  could 
get  none,  for  there  was  a  surly.looking  man  from  Charles- 
ton,  who  engrossed  all  the  conversation,  and  lus  whole 
talk  was  about  cotton,  and  he  spoke  as  if  nobody 
knew  any  thing  of  the  matter,  but  himself. 

At  half-past  three  o'clock,  we  reached  Brunswick,  36 
miles  from  New  York,  where  we  crossed  the  Rariton 
River,  by  a  wooden  bridge.  This  i«  one  of  the  most 
considerdble  rivers  in  New  Jersey.  It  rises  about  30 
miles  above  this,  and,  running  a  south-east  course,  falls 
into  Bariton  Bay  at  Amboy.  It  is  navigable  to  this  place, 
by  tvhich  means  a  great  trade  is  carried  on  with  New  York. 

Buif  KswicK  is  an  incorporated  city,  containing  about 
3000  inhabitants.  The  greater  part  of  it  is  low,  and  it  is 
not  very  handsome,  but  seems  to  be  improving.  It  was 
originally  settled  moGttly  by  Dutch  people,  and  there  are 
thv^  Dutch  churches.  The  other  public  buildings, 
worthy  of  notice,  are  the  Court-House  and  Academy ; 
which  Isyit  is  said  to  be  a  very  thriving  seminary.  The  lands 
in  the  neighbourhood  appear  rough  and  rocky ;  but  we 
were  informed  that  they  raised  pretty  good  crops,  particu- 
l|iriy  of  grass,  which  had,  throughout  the  whole  of  this 
district^  flourished  very  much  of  late,  in  consequence  of 
the  application  of  plaster  of  Paris. 

The  {^emoon  continued  wet,  and  the  road  was  veiy 
bad,  through  a  level  country,  about  14  miles,  when  we 
passed  a  small  place  called  Kingston:  fix^  whence  the 
road  is  much  improved,  and  proceeds  tlirough  a  fine 
country,  and  by  an  easy  ascent,  about  three  miles,  to 
Frincetonj  which  we  reached  a  litde  after  dark.  We 
should  have  stopped  here  for  the  night ;  but  there  \vqs  a 


^ 


.*. 


XA2 


Commeneifment  bidl  at  the  stage-house,  and  wri  were 
ihformed  that  we'  must  move  on  to  Titnton,  aAidt  the 
night  ivas  ivet  and  dark,  and  we  were  sufficiently  tired. 
I  waa  mdktified  at  this  decisiont,  for  I  wished  very  much 
tos^the:baiL  -vn}-^''^  '  ■     '■'''■■'  rv.^/i*.'., 

During  the  short  time  we  stopped,  I  went  into  thebaH- 
rboih,  where  thi^  dance  was  going  on,  and  almost  the 
first  object,  that  saluted  my  eyes,  was  Mi^  Gibbons,  a 
dashing  b^lte  ih>m  iSavannah.  I  tlioiight  myself  at  homci 
Btlt'I  tah't  say  I  was  so  much  pleased  with  the  appear^ 
ance  of  the  *'  fair  ones,"  as  i  was  in  Yankee-land.  There 
was  a  great  number  of  "elegant  forms,"  and  "hand* 
some  iaces,^'  but  the '  dress  was,  generally  spcsdking, 
showy,  '  ^t  neatM^  ihdicatiott  of  a  bad  taste ;  and  the 
most  of  them  had  large,  tiirefe  inch  diameter  sort  of  lings 
in  their  ears^  caUcd  by  some  ctf<  the  students;  ncit  inaptly, 
••Cupid^s  Chariot  wheelsv*'^  Nor  did  the  dancings  ^ease 
me.  The  music  was  a  French  cotilli^V  to  Whldh  "^y 
f*  $prawM  sind4]»nm^&/h^'^^^^^l^  le  tdutmisembh  wafii  the 
vkjty  contrast  to  t^se  soul-iiispiring  reels  and  stiial^^>eys, 
which  animate  our  Scots  girls,  and  set  them  in  moiioU) 
"their  feet  as  pat  to  the  music  ws  its  echo."  J^tered 
iik^'i^  conversation  with  some  of  the  students  and  young 
ladies  who  were  bye-standers,  who  answered  my  eii^ 
quiries  with  much  affability;  and  I  left  the  room  with 
liegret,  when  I  was  called  to  take  my  passage  in  tfee  stage. 
'>  Of  the  town  of  Princeton  I  could,  of  course,  see  tio;. 
thing,  at  that  late  hour,  but  I  learned,  that  it  is  handsomely 
situated,  on  elevated  ground,  fkan  whence  there  is  a  veiy 
fine  view,  through  a  well  cultivated  adjoining  eountty. 
The  number  of  dwelHne-houses  is  about  100,  fihd  the 
college  is  reputed  one  of  the  best  seminai^ies  in  the  United 
States. 


nxm  JEBSEY. 


143 


Having  got  a  number  of  ^  students  as  passengers, 
the  stage  was  crowded ;  and,  on  our  way  to  Trenton,  it 
broke  down,  by  one  of  the  braces  giving  way.  It  is  cus- 
tomary, in  Britain,  to  provide  agsdnst  an  accident  of  this 
kind,  by  having  an  iron  chain,  to  supply  the  place  of  the 
brace;  and  the  contrivance  being  a  very  simple  one,  I 
thought  it  would  have  been  adopted  here;  but  to  my 
surprise  there  was  no  chain,  ai>d  the  defect  was  supplied 
by  breaking  down  an  honest  man'^  fence,  fou), jt^rusting  a 
rail  under  the  carriage,  while  the  passengers  stopd  sibnost 
up  to  the  ancles  in  the  mud^  holding  it  up.  Being  fix^d 
in  this  way,  we  jolted  on  to  Trenton,  M^hich  \ve  reached 
near  12  o'clock  at  night.  ^^ 

Trenton  is  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  and .i9  situated 
on  the  Delaware  river,  30  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and 
66  fromv  New  York.  It  is  a  handsome  tittle  towii,  con- 
taining about  200  houses.  The  pi^Uc  buildings  are,  the 
state-house,  a  court-house,  and  episcopal  Umrch,  a  pres- 
byterian  church,  a  quaker  meeting-house,  and  methodist 
meeting-hous^. 


O)' 


■\ 


■',.1*1^  4^-^al 


* 


144 


N£W  JfiRSI&Y^ 


)    J:.*.       •      ^ 


■■;i%-v'    't^'^-i.^i!^-' ^*:'-. 


CHAPTER  XXn. 


■^ 


^Jersey 


Is  situated  betw<!en  39^  aiid  41^  20'  north  latitude,  and 
1°  30'  and  S*"  5'  east  longitude.  Its  length  is  145  miles, 
and  its  breadtii  60.  It  contains  7920  square  miles,  being 
5,068,800  acres. 

The  state  extends  along  the  sea-coast  upwards  of  100 
miles,  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  highlands  of  Never 
Sink,  is  low  and  sandy,  but  it  is  more  elevated,  and  more 
diversified,  towards  the  interior.  The  northern  part  swells 
out  into  high  lands,  and,  towards  the  extremity  of  the  stale, 
tliere  are  considerable  mountains.  The  principal  rivers 
have  been  already  noticed,  aixl  there  are  no  other  erf  any 
note,  though  small  streams  are  numerous,  and  supply  the 
state  abundantly  with  mill-seats. 

The  state  abounds  with  minerals ;  producing  iron,  lead, 
copper,  gypsum,  coal,  and  slate ;  and  there  are  several  use- 
ful clays  and  ochres. 

About  one-fourth  part  of  the  state  is  sandy  and  barren ; 
there  are  in  the  southern  parts  extensive  pine  barrens,  and 
cedar  swamps.  Large  tracts  of  salt  meadow  run  along 
Delaware  bay,  and  the  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Atlantic. 
Along  the  rivers  and  small  streams  in  the  interior  of  the 
state  therc  is  much  good  land;  and  the  hilly  district 
abounds  with  fertile  valleys. 


■ .  \'t:M-  '■■'^'•i 


ilKW  JERSfeY.' 


14;^ 


The  climate  is  strikingly  different  in  the  different  sec- 
tions of  the  state.  In  the  northern  part  there  is  clear,  set** 
tied  weather,  and  the  winters  are  excessively  cold,  but  the 
whole  is  very  healthy.  In  the  southern  part,  particularly 
towards  the  extremity,  the  climate  approaches  to  that  of 
the  southern  states,  and  is  subject  to  very  sudden  changed. 

New  Jersey  was  first  settled  by  the  Dutch,  in  1618 ;  but 
Ming  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  it  was  granted,  along 
with  New  York,  by  Charles  II,  to  his  brother  tlie  dukfe 
of  York.  It  was  among  the  first  states  that  acceded  to 
the  union,  and  sent  five  delegates  to  congress  Li  1774.  It 
bore  a  very  active  part  in  the  contest  for  independence,  and 
was  luii^  the  theatre  of  war,  in  which  it  sufft^red  great  losses 
and  privations.  It  now  sends  two  senators  {aid  six  repre- 
sentatives  to  the  congress  of  the  United  States. 

The  state  is  divided  into  13  counties  and  100  townships, 
and  contains  211,149  inhabitants,  including  12,422  slaves^ 
being  upwards  of  26  persona  to  the  square  mile. 

The  principal  towns  have  been  already  mentioned,  be- 
sides which  there  are  Burlington  and  Bordentown,  two  con- 
siderable places  on  the  Delaware,  and  Salem  and  Patterson^ 
in  the  interior;  which  last  is  a  manufacturing  town,  at  the 
falls  of  Passaic,  already  noticed,  and  is  rising  fast  into  im* 
portance.  The  country  is  pretty  well  improved  by  thrive 
ing  farms,  and  the  roads  and  bridges  are  numerous.  I 
did  not  hear  of  any  canals,  but  I  learned  there  was  one 
projected  across  the  country  from  Brunswick  to  Trenton, 
which,  if  carried  into  effect  will  certainly  be  a  great  im- 
provement, as  it  will  complete  the  inland  navigation  be- 
tween New  York  and  Philadelphia. 

New  Jersey  is  settled  with  frugal,  industrious  farmers*. 
The  prodi  xe  of  the  state  is,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  Iif ■ 

VOL.   I.  T 


146 


KCW  JEBBEY. 


dian  com,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables,  and  a  vast  quan. 
tity  of  fruit;  and  butter  and  cheese  are  made  in  great 
quantities,  for  the  supply  of  the  New  York  and  Philadek 
phia  markets. 

The  inhabitants  of  New  Jersey,  except  in  the  towns, 
make  the  greater  part  of  their  clothing,  and  there  are  seve- 

>fal  manufactories  of  cottons  and  woollens,  on  a  large  scale. 
Of  iron,  the  manufactures  are  very  extensive,  and  the  quan- 
tity is  considend>le  of  leather,  glass,  and  paper.    The  state 
iias  hardly  any  foreign  commerce,  nearly  the  whole  being 

yt^,^anied  on  through  the  medium  of  New  York  and  Phila- 

I  idelphia.  The  principal  sea-port  is  j^mboy,  but  ike  dniect 
exports,  anniudly,  amount  to  only  a  £ew  thousand  dollars. 

<^The  state  is  supplied  with  foreign  goods  through  the  large 

^^cities  already  mentioned. 

The  general  dissemination  o£  knowle^e  through  the 
state  has  not  been  attended  to  according  to  its  importance. 

^There  are  numerous  seminaries  for  the  highei'  branches  of 
literature,  but  the  state  seems  defective  in  common  schools. 

,  I  keep  the  parish  schools  in  Scotland  constantly  in  my 

t  mind,  and  I  regret  when  the  system  for  the  instruction  of 
of  the  mass  of  the  people  does  not  come  up  to  that 
standard. 

The  government  of  this  state  is  vested  in  a  governor, 
^'legislative  council,  and  general  assembly.  The  council 
consists  of  one  member,  and  the  assembly  of  three  mem- 
bers from  each  county,  chosen  annually  by  the  people. 
The  gorvemor  is  chosen  annually  by  the  council  and  as- 
sembly. The  qualification  for  a  voter  is  jf.  50.  The 
state  is  prospering,  and  increasing  in  population  and 
wealth.  ot  ^  ff 


SAW: 


,1       .vIOY 


fiiiti^ 


NEW  aaiisfiT. 


m 


•  ?jK  m 


OHAPTEEXXra. 

Trenton  Uriage, — Bristolf^-Philadelphta. 

Thursday,  September  25th,  w«  set  out  from  Tmi- 
ton,  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  crossed  tlie  river 
Delaware  by  Trenton  bridge.  This  bridge  was  finished 
in  February-  last,  and  being  one  of  the  ttiost  elegant  in  the 
United  States,  and  different  in  construction  from  any  I 
have  seen  before,  it  merits  a  particular  description.  It 
consists  of  five  arches  of  194  feet  span  each,  built  of  white 
pine,  and  supported  on  strong  stone  piers;  the  whole l^gth 
is  970  feet;  the  breadth  36.  The  arches  are  elevated  over 
head  by  substantial  rafters,  and  the  platform,  or  carriage«^ 
way,  is  suspended  by  these  arches,  and  forms  a  plane  the ' 
whole  length  of  the  bndge.  Above  the  top  of  the  arches 
the  roof  is  covered  in,  so  as  to  secure  the  whole  from  the 
weather ;  and  the  carriage-way  is  divided  into  two  sections* 
each  of  winch  is  appropriated  to  travellers  in  one  direction. 
At  die  entrance,  passengers  are  directed  to  take  the  road 
on  the  right  hand.  Upon  the  whole,  this  is  a  very  elegant 
piece  of  architecture.  It  was  commenced  in  1804,  and  is 
the  plan  of  a  mechanic  of  the  name  of  Burr. 

The  Delaware  is  a  noble  river.  Its  i^ead  waters  are  in 
New  York  state,  from  whence  it  pursues  a  south-east 
course,  formmg  the  boundary  between  that  state  and 
Pennsylvania,  about  60  miles,  and  thence  forms  the  boun- 
dary between  Pennsylvania  and  ^^lew  Jersey,  upwards  of 


Itt8 


TBAVBL8   T» 


»  «k 


loo  more,  to  this  place,  where  there  are  falls,  but  of  no 
great  height.  From  hence  it  increases  in  breadth,  during 
a,  course  of  36  miles  to  Philadelphia,  where  it  is  a  mile 
broad.  As  it  proceeds  downwards  it  gradually  increases, 
and,  40  miles  below  ^Philadelphia,  at  NewcasUe,  it  is  two 
miles  broad,  thence  it  spreads  out  into  a  spacious  bay,  and 
falls  into  the  Atlantic  ocean  70  miles  below  Newcastle,  its 
outlet  being  25  miles  wide.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels  of 
any  burden  to  Fhiladelphia ;  for  sloops  and  other  small  craft 
to  Trenton,  where  it  is  obstructed  by  the  falls;  but  above 
them  it  is  navigable  for  boats  upwards  of  100  miles. 
^.  Immediately  after  passing  this  river  we  were  in  the  state 
of  Pennsylvania;  and  among;  the  first  houses  that. attracted 
my  notice  was  Morrisville,  the  seat  of  general  Moreau.  It 
is  a  fine  house,  with  elegant  grounds  about  it,  a^  I,  have 
no  doubt  but  the  general  finds  it  a  happy  retreat  fro^i  the  tur- 
bulent  scenes  of  Europe.  I  ;Could  not  pass  this  place  with- 
out a  great  variety  of  reflections.  General  Moreau  bore 
an  active  part  in  the  Fre»fch  revolu^on.  and  {supported  a 
character  in  arms,  rivalled  Quly  by  that  of  Bonaparte  him- 
self. He  fought  for  republican  principles,  and  braved 
every  ^danger  to  establish  them  in  his  native  landv  His 
reputation  rose  with  his  extraordinary  merit,  and  he  was  m 
the  full  tide  of  popularity  in  the  republic,  which  he  had 
served  to  establish,,  when,  by  a  sudden  transition  of  fortune, 
that  republic  vanished  from  the  earth:  his  great  rival  in 
arms  was  elevated  to  a  throne;  and  he  was  exiled  to  the 
banks  of  the  Delaware..  But  happy,  in  my  mind,  is  he 
who  is  thus  exiled.  A  republican  finds  here  a  repub- 
lic, and  the  only  republic  on  the  face  of  the  earth  that 
ever  deserved  the  name :  wliere  all  are  under  die  protec- 
tioii  of  equal  laws ;  of  tews  made  by  themselves;  where 


PEKNSTLVAMIA. 


14ft 


every  man  '*  sits  under  his  vine,  and  under  his  iig-tree,  and 
none  to  make  him  afiraid ;"  and  where,  far  removed  from 
the  turbulence  and  din  of  maddened  Europe,  he  can  en- 
joy "  health,  and  peace,  and  sweet  content." 

From  Trenton  bridge  we  travelled  10  miles,  to  Bristol. 
The  road  was  good,  and  passes  partly  by  the  river  side, 
through  a  level  country,  but  the  soil  is  rather  sandy.  The 
banks  of  the  river  are  very  beautiful,  and  adorned  with 
many  elegant  villas.  Bristol  is  a  handsome  village,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  contains  probably  about  100  houses, 
many  of  them  elegant.  A  few  miles  beyond  Bristol  we 
passed  a  considerable  creek,  and  continuing  our  course 
near  the  river  side,  through  a  very  fine  country,  we  passed 
through  IfHnkJbrd,  five  miles  from  Philadelphia.  This  is 
an  elegant  village,  containing  about  100  houses,  and  is  a 
place  of  considerable  resort  for  the  inhabitants  of  Philadel- 
phiaj  Inthe  summer  sea^n.  A  little  beyond  this  we  pass- 
ed a  rising  ground,  called  Prospect  Hill,  where  we  had  the 
first  viei^r  qf  Philadelphia.  The  road  here  is  broad,  and 
well  mejtalled  with  broken  stones,  which  renders  travelling 
pretty  rough,  but  L  is  good  upon  the  whole.  The  country' 
is  now  rich  and  level,  abounding  in  gardens  and  orchards; 
aild  exhibits  every  appearance  of  the  approach  to  a  great 
city.  On  entering  the  city,  I  was  quite  deUghted  with  the 
regularity  of  the  streets,  and  beauty  of  the  buildings.  The 
stage  drove  nearly  a  mile  through  the  city,  and  I  took  up 
my  residence  at  the  Man^on-House  Hotel,  in  Third- 
street. 


'•,**i-^.VjS? 


v:r^ 


191^ 

TRATBLS  IV  ' 

. 

!  i-   ' 

;|^-i»  .A.t.   1  ■  •>'<'         ' 

•  ;    „■            ..             .       ^     ■ 

■S/«i"ji>t». 

•■5^.*'' ' 

.'           »     , 

^Ji*^,.'  4:5«^-  s    ■ 

nif  APTF.»  V1CTV: 

Philadelphia* 

1  HIS  city  is  situated  between  the  Delaware  <md  Schuyl- 
kill rivers,  about  four  miles  above  their  junction.  It  is 
laid  out  on  an  elegant  plan,  with  streets  crossing  one  ano. 
ther  at  right  angles,  and  extends  between  the  two  rivers^ 
being  upwiirds  of  two  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  westj 
and  a  little  more  thah  one  mile  in  breadth.  There  are 
large  suburbs  to  the  north,  and  south,  on  Ae  Delaware 
river,  called  the  Northern  Liberties,  Kensington,  aiidSouth- 
wark;  and  these  extend  upwards  of  a  mile  \6  the  norths 
and  half  a  mile  south  of  the' city,  making  the  extreme 
length  on  the  Delaware  river  nearly  three- miles.  But  the 
city  is  closely  built  to  the  west#ard  only  about  ai  mile; 
the  buiklings  on  the  remainira^  J%t,  towards  the-  Schuyl- 
kill, being  very  thinly  scatt^rfedi  It  is  however  rapidly 
filling  up  in  that  directioh.  '  High  0*^  Market-street  is 
about  100  feet  broad,  and  running  the  whole  length  of 
the  city,  is  terminated  by  die  Schuylkill  bridge  to  the 
west.  A  street  of  equal  breadth,  called  Broad^street,  cross- 
es it  in  the  middle,  where  there  is  a  lai^  arda,  called 
Centre-Square,  on  which  th^  water- works  are  built.  The 
streets  running  parallel  to  High-Street  are  named  after  va- 
rious trees  said  to  have  been  found  on  the  ground  on 
which  they  are  laid  out.  To  the  north,  are  Mulberry^ 
Sassafiasy  sind  Fine  s  to  the  south,  Chesnut,  fTalnut,  Lo' 


FBNNBVLVANIA. 


l^ 


id  Schuyl- 
on.    It  is 
p  one  ano- 
wo  rivers, 
5t  to  west, 
There  are 
Delawate 
aiidSouth- 
the  north, 
e  extreme 
,    But  the 
it  «  mile; 
le  Schuyl- 
'cr  fapidly 
it-street  is 
kngth  of 
[ge  to  the 
•,  cross- 
called 
iilt.    The 
after  vA- 
•ound  on 
hlberry, 
inut,  Lor 


ctat.  Spruce^  Piney  and  Cedar,  The  cross  streets  are 
numbered  according  to  situation  from  the  rivers,  thus, 
Front,  Second,  Third,  and  so  on,  to  Thirteenth,  on  the 
Delaware  .side;  and  finom  Front  to  Eighth,  on  the  Schuyl- 
kill side.  Mulbeny-street  is  60  feet  wide,  and  all  the 
other  streets  are  50.  It  was  the  intention  of  the  benevo- 
lent projector  of  the  city  that  Front-street,  on  the  Dela- 
ware, should  have  been  the  eastern  boundary,  and  that  the 
space  between  that  and  the  river  should  have  lieen  con- 
verted into  public  ground,  useful  and  ornamental  to  the 
city;  but  this  elegant  plan  has  given  way  to  the  avidity  for 
commercial  gain,  and  this  spot  is  now  thickly  built  up  with 
wharves,  warehouses,  and  dwelling-houses;  which  form  a 
street  on  the  low  ground  along  the  margin  of  the  river, 
called  V^  ater-street.  In  the  original  plan  there  were  a 
great  number  of  public  squares,  but  several  of  them  have 
also  been  infringed  upon,  though  there  are  still  many  left, 
which  are  very  ornamental  to  the  city.  r* 

This  city  contained,  by  the  census  of  1800,  81,000  in- 
habitants, and,  as  there  has  been  a  great  increase  since, 
they  are  now  estimated  at  upwards  of  90,000^ ;  and  the 
buildings  at  upwards  of  14,000.  -4 

The  city  is  composed  almost  wholly  of  brick  houses,' 
covered  with  slate,  or  shingles;  and  they  are  generally  or- 
namented with  marble  steps,  with  soles  and  lintels  for  the 
dcx)rs  and  windows;  which  form  an  elegant  contrast  with 
the  brick,  and  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  buildings. 
Some  of  the  public  buildings  are  wholly  composed  of 
marble,  and  others  are  much  ornamented  with  it,  which 
gives  the  city  an  elegant  and  even  magnificent  appear* 


ance. 


By  the  census  of  l&tO,  the  city  and  county  casAwx.  1 1 1,310. 


.152 


THAVELS   nf 


The  public  buildings  are  very  numerous.  The  ban; 
mention  of  a  few  of  them  will  be  sufbcient  to  convey  an 
idea  of  the  importance  of  this  city.  The  State-House, 
with  the  Court-Houses  and  Philosophical  Hall  adjoining, 
the  Dispensary,  Aims-House,  Hospital,  Jail,  Carpenters' 
Hall,  College,  Academy,  Library,  two  theatres,  four  banks, 
five  quaker  meeting-houses,  six  presbyterian  churches, 
three  episcopal  churches,  four  Roman  catholic  churches, 
threte  methodist  churches,  and  one  each  for  German  Cal- 
viniste,  .German  Lutherans,  Swedish  Lutherans,  Mora- 
vians, baptists,  Jews,  and  universalists*.  •<  v     : 

The  State -House  i«  remarkable  as  being  the  place 
.from  whence  the  independence  of  the  United  States  was 
first  proclaimed ;  and  the  legislature  of  the  United  States 
held  their  meetings  in  the  adjoining  buildings,  while  Phila- 
delphia was  the  seat  of  the  general  government.  When 
the  legislature  of  Pennsylvania  continued  at  Philadelphia, 
they  held  their  meetings  in  the  State-House ;  but  the  seat 
of  government  has  been  removed  to  Lancaster,  and  that 
building  now  contains  Peale's  Museum. 

Th^e  are  three  market-houses  in  the  city,  the  principal 
of  which  is  in  High-street.  It  is  a  very  handsome  build- 
ing, about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  well  supplied 
with  provisions.  The  price  of  provisions  is  scmiewhat 
cheaper  than  in  New  York.  Beef,  mutton,  and  veal  may 
be  quoted  at  from  6  to  8  cents  per  pound,  and,  generally 
speaking,  all  other  articles  of  domestic  production  may  be 
quoted  as  one-fifth  cheaper  than  in  the  latter  city. 

The  manufactures  of  this  city  are  rising  into  great  im- 
portance.   The  principal  are  leather  of  every  description, 


f  A  iiflitamn  church  is  now  (1812)  building. 


PMNSTLVAMIA. 


159 


tt  great  variety  of  woodtfuid  iron  work,  ships,  ropes,  fer* 
mented  and  distilled  liquors,  earthenware,  tin  plate,  hatt, 
stockings,  and  a  vast  variety  of  cloths  of  various  descrip- 
tions.  The  printing  business  is  better  established  hcai^ 
than  in  any  other  place  on  the  continent,  and  gives  eTnploy* 
ment  to  a  great  number  of  paper-mills,  and  all  classes  con- 
nected with  the  book-trade:  printers,  type-founders,  en- 
gravers, bookbinders,  and  booksellers  and  stationers. 

The  whole  export  trade  of  the  state  is  carried  on  through 
this  city.  The  exports  are  grain,  flour,  and  pipvkuons, 
flaxseed,  timber,  various  iron  utensils,  cordage,  bark,  skins, 
hosiery,  gunpowder,  ashes,  candle?,  eyder,  &c.  The  im* 
ports  consist  of  British  manufactures  to  a  great  amount, 
West  India  produce,  India  goods,  China  produce,  &€. 
The  exports  of  the  state,  in  1805,  amounted  to  13,762,252 
doUfirs,  of  which  4,365,240  dollars  was  the  produce  of  the 
Stite  i  aiid  the  imports  may  be  reckoned  at  considerably 
more,  as  Philadelphia  supplies  the  inhabitants  of  an  jimt 
mense  back  countiy  with  manufactured  goods,  who  find 
an  outlet  for  their,  produce  by  anbther  channel,  and  remi^ 
in  domestic  produce  or  specie,  neither  of  which  is  exhi- 
bited in  the  custom-house  returns. 

This  city  is  under  great  obligations  to  the  quakers,  who 
have  given  a  tone  to  the  manners  of  the  pet^le  different 
ftom  what  is  to  be  found  in  mpst  other  places  of  equal 
e^^teut.  They  are  industrious  and  sober,  and,  though 
sufficiently  commercial,  they  do  not  conduct  their  business 
ia  the  sanie  dashing  style  whicH  is  done  by  some  commer* 
dal  cities;^  but  confine  themselves  within  bounds,  and 
secure  ^hajt  they  gain.  Education  is  on  an  excellent 
footing ;  besides  the  larger  seminaries  already  noticed, 
there  are  numerpus  academies  and  schools,  tiirpughout  the 


VOL.  I. 


U 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


4^ 


^ 


1.0     SfUi  lii 


I.I 


lias  U4 

IL25  1I.4  11.6 

^^  iii^B  ■■■ 


♦ 


J^  V 
^v-^  *^^^ 


Fhoiographic 

Sdmces 

Carparation 


23  WIST  MAM  STtHT 

WnSTn,N.V.  14SM 

(71«)S7a^S03 


^  ^<^ 


IH 


^«iii?viSL«  ir* 


alty.  The  mtts  and  sciences  hK|r«<  been  long  cultivated. 
A  PhikMophical  Society  was  established  in  the  year  1769, 
ai9fd  tiiey  have  publlihed  several  volumes  of  their  transac- 
tions. The  Libray  Company  was  established  as  eariy  as 
the  year  1731. — ^The  other  societies  of  greatest  importance 
sire,  the  College  of  Physicians,  instituted  for  the  purpose 
of  pronio^g  medical,  anatomical^  and  chemical  .know- 
ledge-; the  P^nnsylvanian  Society  for  promoting  the  Abo- 
litiion  of  Slavery,  and  the  relief  of  iiree  Negroes  unlawfully 
hdd  in  boridage;  the  Pennsfylvania  Academy  of  i^ine 
Arts ;  the  Agricultural  Society ;  Premium  Socict)^;  a 
Sbciety'  fop  i^vlating  the  Miseries  of  Public  Prisons; 
Humane  Society ;  Marine  Benevolent  Society ;  St,  An. 
drew*s  Society;  Scotd  Thistle  Society;  St.  Patricks 
Society r  Hibernian  Society;  St.  George's  Society; 
Wdaii  Sodety;  French  Benevolent  Society;  Germaii 
Society.  The  Grand  Lodge  of  Pemisylvania  is  established 
H^,'  «nd  thett  are  15  or  16  lodges  of  free-masons. 
■  Th^^^  police  of  the  city  is  said  to  be  better  regulated 
tfutii  that  of  any  other  on  the  continent.  It  appears  to  be 
much  better  than  New  York.  There  are  public  scaven- 
gers, who  clean  the  streets  at  stated  times,  and  the  side* 
pavements  are  vgentoally  washed  every  morning.  These 
aie  broad,  ttnd  genetalty  well  piived  with  brick,  and,  the 
streets  being  litied  widi  rows  of  trees,  a  walk  through  the 
city  in  a  summer  morning  is  delightful.  The  ci^  is  ele- 
vated 50  or  60  feet  above  the  river,  in  consequence  of 
which. ^ere  is  an  ample  descent  for  the  water;  and  the 
streettf  are  well  suppUed  with  common  sewers^  whitji 
serve  to  dory'  off  all  die  filth ;  and  they  ale  kept 
sweet  by  the  supply  oi  fresh  water  from  the  waters woiks, 
vrhich  is  constantly  pouring  into  them  ftpta  evay  part  of 


Q 


.f  .ao' 


PBNN8TLVANIA.  XSS 

tfr  city.  This  supply  of  water  9IS0  keeps  the  tlreets  pme 
by  running  along  the  gutters,  so  that  almost  every  street 
has  a  little  stream) on  each  side  of?  it;  and  this  circum- 
stance, though  apparently  trivial,  is  probably  of  more  im- 
portance than  is  gepierally  inyigined*  ^ 

They  have  here,  as  well  as  in  New  York,  adopted  the 
plan,  of  sitiking  necessaries ;  but  I  was  informed  that  ihose 
in  Phikdelphiamust  be  regularly  cleaned,,  and!  did  not 
observe  the  smell,  to  be  near  so  offensive  as  at  New  York : 
bol^  cities,  however,  in  my  opinion,  would  admit  of  great 
ifPipfovement  in,  this  unportant  branch  of  police^. 
,j|^he  inhabitants  general^  have  fresh  complexions,  the 
iniiication^  ^  temperance  and  health.  Their  dress  and 
ipfUi^ers  axe  pietty  much  assitnilated  to  thpse  of  Ne^i^ 
jr^Qik^althoughi  there  is  a  considerable  sprinkling  of  iim 
quaker  habits  diffused  through  the  city,  which  may  at 
fimfei^iew^^tQ.^  stranger,  appear  more  forbidding  and  ai^ 
stere;  but^  on  the  other  hand,  the  attention  they  do  pay^ 
bemg  the  lesult  of  consideration,  may  probably  be  more 
sincere^ and  their  friendship  n{  a. kind  that  will  w^ar  wseU. 

•  Siirtk  n^c^saries  arc,  I  believe,  common  througtibut  the^tJ^f- 
ted  Stttes,  and  have,  at  fir«t  yifew,  the  appearance  of  contribtitki(^|o 
eleAnfinesft,  f»  diey  are  depositoiies  umler  ground  Hfor  every  Mnd^f 
fiith.  But  itia  to  be  observed,  that  the  filtb  collected  iii  tbemjis 
con|itai|itly^gep<^r^ting  a  lokq^t  oiTeD^ive  an4  ^n^icious  ga8,.^t4j:|i 
mingles  with  the  atmosphere ;  is  breathed  every  day  by  the  inhabi- 
tants  of  large  cities,  and  must  contribute  to  render  them  unhealthy. 
Would  h  not  be  wise  toiprevent  this  ?  There  Is  ho  yhy  of  dbiiig  it, 
FUppivhend,  iMit  by  constructihg  tiecessariet  on  a  ^anthat  they  nitty 
Ve  Qieanad  ence  a  week  or  oftener,  i^d  have  this,  and  all  other  fiith) 
<^p^ited  ja  dui>g-hUla  in  the  country,  fj^om  whence  itmay  be^kcn 
to^a^U^«t^<^  ground.  In  so^le  cities  that  haice  cpme  und^r  my 
observa^on,  the  price  obtained  for  the  manure,  is  more  than  equtil 
to  the  expcnce  of  keeping  them  clean.        *    ' 


156 


TAAVELB  1N^ 


■r/.  '  '•! 


*         t  '  ,  t 


u.-« 


».-l»S4< 


^'>  ^jmisftamiiiitu  *.'k^-v- 


iDHAPTER  XXHI. 


Philadelphia^ — Heater-works, — State  Prisma— Library ^ 
*  '  — Museuniy — Falls  of  Sc) 


^Fh£  two  first  days  of  my  stajr  in  Pluliidelphia  i^ 
wet  and  stormy,  so  that  I  could  see  but  little.  Itiblc 
a  ride,  in  company  with  a  friend,'  to  the  floating  briidge 
<m  the  Schuylkill  river,  near  its  junction  with  the 'D^. 
ware.  The  river  is  here  about  300  yards  broad,  and  thie 
country  between  it  and  Philadelphia  ii  Itvel,  ricH  ^ 
weH  cultivated. 

f  On  the  27th,  I  went  to  s^  the  water^Woiks.  The 
building  which  contains  the  reservoir  is  ih'tfae  Centre- 
Square,  beings  the  most  elevated  ground  in  the  city.  It 
occupies  a  square  of  60  feet^  and  from  the  iniddle  there  is 
a  circular  tower,  40  feet  in  diameter,  and  60  feet  high, 
which  contains  the  reservoir ;  and  this  tower  b  terminated 
by  a. dome,  which  gives  it  a  very  handsome  appearance. 
vHie  water  is  conveyed  to  this  building  from  the  Schuyl- 
kill^ a  distance  of  neariy  a  mile,  through  a  cittular  brick 
tunnd^,  of  six  feet  diameter,  having  d  fall  of  six  inches 
toward  the  Schuylkill.  The  water  is  received  from  the 
Schuylkill  into  a  substantial  basin  and  canal,  and  fitim  tfaeiice 
is  raised  by  a  steam-engine  to  the  level  of  tiie  aqueduc^ 
which  conveys  it  to  the  Centre-Square;  It  is  ^lere  received 
into  another  basin,  and  thence,  by  another  steam^enjg^,  is 


FrikNtft&TAVIA. 


157 


le.    I  tibk 
^g  brmge 

id,  andtJte 


devoted  to  the  circular  towo^  from  vdwiice  it  nsnes  dirough 
wooden  pipes,  in  all  directions,  to  supply  the  city« 

The  whole  expence  of  the  works  yvBs  about  150,000 
ddlars  (jC.  33,750  sterling).  The  work  was  undertaken 
by  the  corporation^  who  raited  thefiftiids  pardy  by  a  tax, 
and  partly  by  Iban,  allowing  the  subscribers  to  the  loon 
six  per  cent,  interest  for  their  money,  and  the  use  of  the 
water  fiee  for  three  yiears,  for  every  100  dollars  sub- 
scribedp 
'  The  city  is  supplied  with  water  by  contract,  and  the 
contmctor  is  obl^ed  to  supply  three  millions  of  gallons 
per  day  if  required.  The  annual  expence  is  six  diousand 
dollars  for  tme  nuUion  of  gallons  per  day,  and  for  any  ad* 
ditional  quantity^  tip  to  two  millions,  the  expence  is  at  the 
rate  of  Mf  that  sum.  The  enghie  is  40  horse  power,  and 
can' raise,  if  necessaT}',  four  millions  and  a  hidf  of  gafionft 
p^  day f  to  that  the  supply  must  be  abundant  for  every 
purpo^.  ir 

The  water  is  soft  and  good,  but  it  is  not  filteied,  «tid 
is,  of  course,  somedmles  muddy,  diough  never  to  mich 
80  as  to  render  it  unfit  for  use ;  and  it  is  allivays  whole- 
some*  It  is  of  great  importance  tb  these  wdrl^s,  that  they 
are  the  property  txf  the  public,  and  not  subject  to  indivi- 
dual speculation;  in  consequence  of  which  the  supply  is 
liberid,  land  there  are  fountains  in  everjr*  street  to  Which 
Ae  whole  public  have  access.  The  vniter  can  be  used 
for  watering  the  streets^  or  extinguishitig  firte,  as  often  as 
may  be  necessary;  while  eveiy  householder,  by  pa3ring  a 
(KBSonable  compensation,  can  have  a  hydrant  in  any  part 
tif  lus|iremises  that  *he  {leases,  even  to  the  attic  story^  In 
sluMt,  this  water  is  a  great  luxury,  and  is,  in  my  (pinion, 


i;-/^y  ..^^ 


'■m^       -  A-     *v>' 


^ 


158 


TftAviL«  tirf 


df  inoriculable  advantiige  to  the  health,  as  it  certainly  it  to 
the  convenience  and  comfort  of  the  communhv. 
'  The  BQj^ly  of  cities  with  water  is  a  subject  of  great 
importance,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  inhtibitants  of 
other  places  in  the  United  States' wiH^pix^t  l^  the  lauda- 
bte  example  set  them  by  the  citizens  of  Philaidelphia^  and 
the  happy  effects  which  have  resulted  from  it.  The  power 
of  the  steam-engine,  properly  applied,  can  send  ln^ateT  to 
any  city,  and  cities  are  generally  sufficiently  opi^enl  to 
bear  the  cxpence.  All  that  is  wantirtg  is  a  proper  |dat), 
put  in  motion  by  some  of  the  leading^  In6n.  Oft  this 
brandi  I  have  to  notice,  that  a  grear  savings  can  be  made 
from  the  application  of  the^/^mnj^pUm^,  bywhiibh  meaiis 
^  wat^  can  be  conveyed  toanyieasohable  height  and 
distance,  by  one  engine.  ^The  conductor  ihust;  in* that 
iaae;  be  constructed  of  metallic  tubes,  whiolv'Can  be  made 
of  any  diameter,  aiicoiding  to  the  supply  of  ^tte  wanted} 
aiid  they  nrii^  be  fumishe#**With  valves  to  prevent  the^e* 
Kelion  of  the  water.  -  ^  ^- 

'^^^I  rinUalso^notice, In  this  place,  tet  filtration  of  thC'^wa- 
ter  is  a  ^reat  improvement,  and  it  can  be  easHy  done»  to 
an^  exteht  whatever^  by  the  application  of  a  plan^  ^the^n* 
lieniidli^of  a  veiy  ingenious  mechanic  in  Scotland,  which  I 
shall  here  communiorte. 

I  shall  describe  it  from  the  model  which  I  saw;  the  ap- 
plication to  imy  scale  is  easy.  The  model  consisted  of  a 
easkv  in  which  was  inserted  a  fidse'  bottom-about  three 
inches  above  thd  real^  tiottom^  The  fidse  bottom  war  per- 
forated with  small  bdes,  and  in  the  middle'  was  a^tube, 
dksvated  a  litde  above  the  top  of  the  cask,  and^^wlttch 
formed  aixx)mmunicatiou  through  the/*&lse  bottom  to  the 
space  below.    The  cask  was  filled  idth  gravel  of  a  pro- 


PmNtTLYANIA. 


159 


per*  kind  fcr  ;fi!tniftioii.  The  water  was  conveyed  through 
the  tube  into,  the  space  between  the  two  bottoms,  where  it 
deposited  the  greater  part  of  its  sediment,  and  rising  up- 
wanjia  through  the  gravel,  on  the  principle  of  a  spring, 
nin  over  at  the  t<^  of  the  cask,  pure  and  transparent.  The 
efot  was  as  complete  as  could  be  imagined.  The  water 
that  he  used  waa  very  muddy,  and  was,  by  this  simple 
contrivance,, rendered  perfectly  pure;  the  contrast  being 
so  great,  that  when  it  was  exhibited  in  the  di&rent  states 
in  clear  wine*ghisses,  the  one,  to  use  the  inventor's  ex- 
pression, was.  like  punch,  the  otheif,  like  pure  spirits.        ^ 

He  informed:  me  that  the  gravel  answered  better  at  the 
time  I  viewed  it,  than  it  did  at  first,  probably  in  conse- 
quence of  the  mud  aheady  deposited,  attracting  that  in  the 
water.  He  had  not  used  it  long  enough  to  ascertain  the 
period  at  which  it  would  get  too  much  choaked  up  by  the 
mud;  but  he<Jiad  a  contrivance  to  obviate  the  eflect  of  it, 
equally  .simple  and  efficacious  with  all  the  rest  It-con* 
usted^in  opening  a  stop-cock  below,  and  letting  the  water 
mter  ctoifiMiniii,  by  which  means  it  would  wash  idl  the 
sediment  along  with  it. 

vlf  have  seen  different  filters,  some  of  them  upwards, 
some i downwards,  and  some  lateral;  but  I  never  saw 
any  so  simple,  and  so  complete  as  this. 

>The  best  mode  of  applying  the  plan  upon  a  large  scale 
would^  I  diink,  be  this.  To  have  a  leservoir  of  from  IQ 
to  20  feet  deepj  and  of  any  dimensions  that  might  be 
wanted  for  the  purpose  intended.  Have  it  lined  and  bed- 
ded «rith  he^^  stone,  and  divided  mto  three  appaitments. 
Let  one  of  these  reeeive  the  water  where  it  will  deposit  its 
sediment    From  tfience  let  it  run  into  the  second  contain* 


^-    'i; 


ji 


"'■;'' 


160 


fiMAVWM  lib  i 


kig.  Ike  fiber  I  md  from  Ihenoe  be  ooavcTtd  into  fheduni^ 
olear  fomae. 

^  It  is  to  be  observed,  that  the  first  of  thesia  apartmcnti 
mutt  be  elevated  a  little  above  the  second,  and  the  second 
above  the  third ;  and<  the  elevation  taay  be*  great  or  aniall, 
according  to  the  late  at  which  the  watar'  is  required  to 
circulate  from  the  one  to  the  other. 

From  the  Water^  Works  ^  I  went,  accompanied  by  a 
firiend,  to  see  the  State-Prison.  I  was  introduced  to  one 
of  the  inspectors,  who  was  also  one  of  the  £9»unders  of  the 
institution.  He  accompanied  us,  and  expli^ned  the  whole 
system  very  much  to  my  sati^fiiction.  . 
.  This  benevolent  institution,  owes  its  origin  to  the  en* 
lig^itened  citizens  of  Philadeiplua.  Ita  object  is  to  receive 
the  vicious,  and,  if  possible^  to  reclaim  them  to  yirtiie; 
aiid  is  an  admirable  contrast  to  the  aangumaiyi  punishments 
of  old  govenunentsy.who,  for  even  pecuniary  vOffisnces, 
send  them  ofi*  to  the  other  world  to  be  reclaimed  jthere. 
This  institution  does  not  admit  offenders  till  after  cdnvic- 
tion,  when  they  are  received  fit>m  the  d|ffefent  ^pmWigS  the 
state.  It  is  hence  called  the  State-Prison.  Whcnii.Cri* 
minal  b  received^  his  name  ia  put  upon  record,  or,  lo  use 
a  commercial  idea,  he  becomes  a  partner  in  the  concern, 
and  an  account  is  acocndingjy  raised  for  him  in  the  book^. 
Incpiiry  is  then  made  what  ho  can  do ;  if  he  can  wprk  at 
any,  trade,  he  is  taken  to  the  apanment  where  liiat  brancb 
is  caitied  on^  and  baa  his  task  assigned  him.  If.  he  can 
work  at  no  trade,  he  jk  sent  to  saw  marble.  Asa  stimulus 
to  industryi  the  eonvkts  get  credit  in4he  hooka  for  the 
proceeds  of  their  labour,  and  are  debited  with  the  eispence 
Qfi  their  board  and  <d^ing,  which^  however,  is  not  very 
expensive,  as  every  thing  is  conducted  upon  an  economi- 


PEKN8YLTANIA. 


161 


cat  plan,  and  when  they  are  released,  should  their  earnings 
be  more  than  the  expence  of  maintenance,  the  balance  is 
paid  to  them. 

Almost  every  trade  is  carried  on  in  the  prison;  and  the 
institution  is  so  organized,  that  every  necessary  of  life  is 
attended  to  by  the  convicts  themselves :  baking,  cooking, 
scrubbing  the  rooms,  and  so  on ;  and  every  thing  is  kept 
remarkably  clean.  The  food  is  wholesome  and  nutritive, 
confflsting  of  Indian  meal,  bread,  and  meat.  The  drink 
is  molasses  and  water ;  and  no  spiritous  liquors  are  ad- 
mitted within  the  walls  of  the  prison.^ 

There  is  a  separate  apartment  for  the  reception  of  fe- 
male convicts,  where  the  various  parts  of  female  labour 
are  carried  on,  and  it  is  otherwise  under  the  same  system 
of  management  as  that  for  the  nudes.  '         ^ 

I  visited  every  apartment,  and  was  highly  pleased  with 
the  order  and  economy  of  the  whole  establishment.  In 
the  course  of  our  visit,  one  of  the  convicts  came  lip  to 
our  conductor,  and  solicited  very  strongly  for  his  recom- 
mendation in  his  fiivour.  Upon  making  inquiry'  what  he 
meant  by  this,  I  was  informed,  that,  as  the  object  is  purely 
to  protect  society  from  the  inroada  of  the  vicioi/  tind  to 
reclaim  the  vicious  to  civilized  life,  the  govemoi  has  the 
power  of  nutigating  the  punishment,  and  of  pardoning  the 
offenders,  upon  receiving  satisfactory  evidence  that  the  ap- 
plicant is  fit  for  civil  society;  and  the  best  evidence  being 
the  opimon  of  the  inspectors  of  the  prison,  the  criminals 
are,  6f  course,  anxious  to  procure  it  in  their  iavour^ 
This  is  a  very  happy  stimulus  to  good  behaviour.  Our 
conductor  observed,  that  it  was  a  very  sacred  trust,  and 
to  be  used  M'ith  great  caution.  He  did  not  think  this 
chiip  was  yet  ripe  for  a  release ;  he  must  wait  ;a  little. 


VOL.     T. 


« 


^^^ 


jT* 


162 


TBAVEL8  IN 


,  The  whole  institutioii  is  under  the  direction  of  compe* 
tent  managers ;  and,  to  insure  proper  discipline,  there  are 
a  gradation  of  punishments  witliin  the  prison,  conaaiting 
chiefly  of  solitary  confinement  in  cells. 

I  notice  this  subject  particularly,  because  it  is,  so  fiir 
as  I  know,  of  pure  American  origin,  and  is  happily  adapt- 
ed to  the  genius  of  the  government  of  the  country,  mild, 
just,  and  merciful.  Some  of  the  other  states,  aheady  no- 
ticed, have  imitated  the  example  of  Pennsylvania ;  and  I 
was  informed,  that  the  plan  was  likely  to  be  generally 
adopted  throughout  ihe  Union. 

We  next  visitedme  Library,  the  account  of  which  I 
shall  transcribe  from  the  Continuation  of  the  Life  of  Dr. 
{"ranklin. 

"  The  promotion  of  literature  had  been  little  attended 
to  in  Pennsylvania.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  were  too 
much  immersed  in  bu»ness  to  think  of  scientific  pursuits; 
and  those  few,  whose  inclinations  led  them  to  study,  found 
it  ^fficult  to  gratify  them,  fix>m  the  want  of  sufficiently 
large  libraries.  .  In  such  circumstances,  the  establishment 
of  a  public  library  was  an  important  event.  This  was  first 
set  on  foot  by  Franklin,  about  the  year  1731.  Fifty  per- 
sons subscribed  forty  shillings  each,  and  agreed  to  pay 
ten  shillings  annually.  The  number  increased,  and,  in 
1742,  the  company  was  incorporated  by  the  name  cf 
<  The  Library  Company  of  Philadelphia.'  Several  other 
companies  were  formed  in  this  city,  in  imitation  of  it; 
and  these  were  all,  at  length,  united  with  the  Library 
Company  of  Philadelphia,  which  thi^s  received  a  conside* 
rable  accession  of  books  and  property.  It  now  ccmtains 
about  8000  volumes  on  all  subjects,  a  philosophical  ^pa- 
ratus;  and  a.  good  beginning  towards  a  coUectioa  <^  natu- 


PBNNflYLVANIA. 


163 


ral  and  artificial  curiosities,  besides  landed  property  of 
considerable  value.  The  company  have  lately  buih  an 
elegant  house  in  Fifth-street,  in  the  front  of  which  will  be 
a  marble  statue  of  their  founder,  Benjamin  Franklin. 

"  This  institution  was  greatly  encouraged  by  the  friends 
of  literature  in  America  and  in  Great  Britain.  The  Penn 
family  distinguished  themselves  by  their  donations.— > 
Among  the  earliest  friends  of  this  institution  must  be 
mentioned  the  late  Peter  CoUinson,  the  friend  and  cor- 
respondent of  Dr.  Franklin.  He  not  only  made  conside- 
rable presents  himself,  and  obtained  many  others  from  his 
friends,  but  voluntarily  undertook  to  manage  the  business 
of  the  company  in  London,  recommending  books,  pur- 
chasing and  shipping  them.  His  extensive  knowledge, 
and  zeal  for  the  promotion  of  science,  enabled  him  to  exe- 
cute this  important  trust  with  the  greatest  advantage; 
and  he  continued  to  perform  these  services  for  more  than 
30'  years,  and  uniformly  refused  to  accept  of  any  compel^ 
sation.  During  this  time,  he  communicated  to  ^  direc- 
tors every  information  relative  to  improvements  dnd  disco- 
veries in  the  arts,  agriculture,  and  philosophy. 

**  The  beneficial  influence  of  this  institution  was  soon 
evident.  The  cheapness  of  the  terms  rendered  it  acqessi- 
ble  to  every  one.  Its  advantages  were  not  confined  to  the 
opulent.  The  citizens  in  the  middle  and  lower  walks  of  life 
were  equally  partakers  of  them.  Hence,  a  degree  of  infor- 
mation was  extended  among  all  classes  of  the  people, 
ivhich  b  very  unusual  in  other  places.  The  example  was 
soon  followed.  Libraries  were  established  in  various  pla- 
ces, and  they  are  now  become  very  numerous  in  the 
United  States,  particularly  in  Pennsylvania.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  they  will  be  still  more  wi('!eiy  extended,  and 


164 


TBAYBLt  m 


that  information  will  be  every  where  increased.  Thin  wiU 
be  the  best  security  for  maintaining  our  liberties.  A  na. 
tion  of  well-informed  men»  who  have  been  taught  to  know 
and  prize  the  rights  which  God  has  given  them,  cannot  be 
enslaved.  It  is  in  the  regions  of  ignorance  that  tyranny 
reigns.  It  flies  before  the  light  of  science.  Let  the  citi- 
zens of  America,  then,  encourage  institutions  calculated  to 
diffuse  knowledge  amongst  the  people ;  and  among  these 
PUBLIC  LIBRARIES  are  not  the  least  important." 
.  The  library  has  been  since  removed  to  the  building  al- 
luded to  in  the  above  extract.  It  b  elegant  and  com- 
modious, and  has  a  statue  of  Franklin  in  front,  the  dona- 
tion of  the  late  Mr.  Bingham.  The  library  now  consists 
of  more  than  14,000  volumes,  in  all  the  various  depart- 
ments of  literature.  It  is  divided  into  shares  of  40  dol- 
lars  each ;  but  the  number  is  unlimited.  The  subscribers 
are  at  present  upwards  of  500.  Besides  the  purchase  of 
the  share,  each  subscriber  pays  two  dollars  annually,,  to 
the  support  of  the  institution. 

The  library  is  open  every  day,  except  Sunday,  from  2 
o'clock  to  sunset,  and  the  subscribers  may  either  read  in 
the  librar}%  or  be  accommodated  with  books  to  read  in 
their  houses.  The  rule  relative  to  strangers  and  non-sub- 
scribers  is  very  liberal.  They  may  have  the  use  of  the 
books  in  the  library,  while  it  is  open,  free  of  expence,  or, 
on  depositing  the  value,  may  borrow  books  and  peruse 
them  at  home,  on  paying  a  small  sum  for  the  use  of  them, 

I  may  take  occasion  to  remark  here  that  I  consider  40 
dollars  of  entry  to  a  library  too  high,  and  two  dollars  of 
annual  subscription  too  low.  The  great  object  of  ^  libra- 
ryis  to  disseminate  knowledge.  *To  secure  that  object, 
the  library  should  be  within  the  reach  cS  every  member  of 


% 


PBKNSTLVANIA^ 


165 


the  community.  But  every  one  cannot  affoitl  to  give  40 
dollars  at  once,  while  the  greater  part  of  those  who  wish 
to  read  can  afford  more  than  two  dollars  a  year.  The 
class  o£  people  to  whom  an  institution  of  this  kind  is  the 
most  valuable  is  young  men  entering  into  the  world, 
many  of  whom  could  not,  or  would  not  willingly,  advance 
40  dollars,  but  who  would  cheerfully  give  four  or  five 
dollars  a  year.  Would  it  not  be  a  wise  regulation  to  ac- 
pmmodate  such? 

The  most  flourishing  library,  in  point  of  funds,  that  I 
have  heard  of,  is  one  iii  London,  where  the  entry  is  one 
guinea,  and  the  annual  subscription  is  the  same.  It  is  en- 
tirely public,  unclogged  with  any  idea  of  stock,  or  shares. 
The  subscribers  are  above  1000,  and  the  income  b,  of 
course,  above  1000  guineas  a  year. 

The  Glasgow  public  library  is  on  a  similar  pbn,  but 
with  more  limited  funds,  and  is  the  most  thriving  institu- 
tion of  the  kind  that  has  ever  come  under  my  observation^. 

From  the  library,  we  passed  to  Peale's  Museum,  which 
is  a  very  excellent  collection,  principally  of  subjects  in  na- 
tural history,  and  does  honour  to  the  ingenuity  and  taste 
of  the  proprietor.  Among  other  curiosities  it  contains  an 
entire  skeleton  of  the  mammoth,  well  worth  the  attention 
of  the  naturalist. 

I  took  a  walk  to  the  Schuylkill  bridge,  which  is  an  ele- 
gant structure,  consisting  of  three  arches,  built  of  woody 
supported  by  strong  stone  piers,  and  covered  in  on  the 
top.  The  length  of  the  bridge  is  550  feet,  besides  the 
abutments  and  wing  walls,  which  are  750  more.  The 
span  of  the  middle  arch  is  198  feet,  that  of  the  other  two 
150  each.     It  is  42  fe«t  wide.    The  foot- ways  on  each 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  3. 


166 


TXAYBLS  m 


^  . 


ft.-' 


side  occupy  five  feet  each,  and  the  carriage-nvay,  which  is 
divided  into  two  parts,  32.  The  bridge,  which  was  she 
years  in  building,  was  finished  last  year,  and  the  expence 
was  235,000  dollars. 

September  28.  Having  visited  every  thing  I  Wished 
to  see  in  the  city,  I  was  invited  by  a  party  of  firiends  to 
take  a  jaunt  in  the  country.  We  crossed  Schuylkill  !>y 
.'he  foresaid  bridge,  and  travelled  four  or  five  miles,  to  see 
a  flax  spinning-mill,  belonging  to  a  gentleman  from  Dun> 
dee.  The  mill  was  not  at  work,  but  we  were  informed 
that  the  business  was  doing  very  well ;  the  produce  was 
mostly  twine.  Being  joined  by  the  Dundee  manu&cturer, 
we  passed  on  to  the  Falls  of  Schuylkill,  where,  at  a  very 
pleasant  situation  on  its  banks,  we  stopped  for  dinner. 

The  Schuylkill  river  ris^  in  the  mountains,  about  120 
m^es  north-west  of  Philadelphia,  and  is  navigable  from 
Reading  downwards  to  the  upper  fidls,  three  miles  above 
where  we  stopped.  The  tide  ri^es  to  the  lower  falls, 
where  the  river  is  about  150  yards  broad.  The  fiills  are 
much  broken  by  huge  masses  of  stone,  v/ith  which  the 
bed  and  banks  of  the  river  abound.  The  banks  are  high- 
ly romantic,  and  are  ornamented  with  many  elegant  coun- 
try seats. 

While  dinner  was  preparing  we  had  a  dish  of  politics, 
in  which  frequent  appeals  were  made  to  me  ;  but  I  declined 
taking  any  share  in  the  argument,  for  1  did  not  fully 
agree  with  either  party.  Indeed,  I  saw  pretty  plamly  that 
self-interest  was  at  the  bottom  of  it,  and  that  the  party- 
names  they  assumed  were  merely  other  terms  for  importers 
and  manufacturers^  who  conceiving  that  their  interests 
were  opposed  to  each  other,  blam^  the  government  of  the 
United  States — ^the  one  party  for  doing  too  much  in  sup* 


""1 


If. 


PBlOrSTLVANIA.^ 


167 


I  Mshed 
friends  to 
iiylkiU  \yy 
Aes,  to  see 
rom  Dun- 
;  mfoimed 
jduce  was 
nufecturer, 
!,  at  a  very 
linner. 
about  120 
gable  from 
liles  above 
ower  falls, 
le  falls  are 
which  the 
is  are  high- 
gant  coun- 


port  of  domeitic  manufiustukcs,  and  the  other  for  doing  too 
lll^. .  But  aU  was  discussed  in  good  humour.  • 

After  dinner,  we  returned,  through  a  pleasant,  well-culti- 
vated country,  by  an  excellent  turnpike  road,  and  in  our 
ivay  stqpped  at  Harrowgate,  where  there  b  a  medicinal 
spring,  which  b  a  good  deal  frequented  in  the  summer 
season.  We  returned  to  the  city  in  the  evening.  The 
day  was  clear  and  pleasant,  and  the  air  cool  and  healthy. 


168 


^.•. 


yeKKdYLVANIA/ 


■1**' 


'i-i, 


*  ■••^  -.•' 


'i  •./.'. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


.^     Pennsylvania.         j^. 

This  fine  state  is  situated  between  39*  43'  and  42^ 

north  latitude,  and  52°  20'  east,  and  3°  30'  west  Lon^tude. 

^tf^  It  is  320  miles  long,  from  east  to  west,  and  162  miles 

broad ;  and  contains  49,390  square  miles,  being  31,609,600 

,  •    acres. 

The  fece  of  the  country  is  remarkably  diversified. 
The  south-east  part,  to  the  distance  of  about  60  or  70 
miles  iirom  Philadelphia,  is  an  undulating  country,  swell-^ 
ing  in  some  places  into  considerable  hills,  but  is  not  moun- 
tainous. The  mountainous  region  then  commences,  and 
extends  across  the  country  about  120  miles.  The  moun- 
tains are  generally  in  long  chains,  running  north-east  and 
south-west.  Between  the  chains,  the  country  is  rough  and 
hilly,  but  there  are  many  fine  valleys,  and  the  whole 
abounds  with  picturesque  scenery.  To  the  north  and 
west  of  the  mountains,  the  countiy  is  elevated,  abound- 
,  *  ihg  with  hills,  valleys,  and  rich  scenery ;  which  continue 
about  120  miles,  to  the  extremity  of  the  state. 

The  country  is  remarkably  well  watered.  Lake  Erie 
is  situated  on  the  north-west,  and  the  Delaware  bay  on 
the  south-east,  by  both  of  which  there  are  fine  outlets, 
the  one  affording  direct  and  speedy  communication  with 
thfe  Atlantic  Ocean,  the  other  communicating  with  it  by 
the  more  circuitous  course  of  the  river  S-:.  Lawrence ; 


// 


hS, 


FEmriTLYAXlA. 


diversified. 
,ut  60  or  70 
untry,  swell- 
is  not  moun- 
mences,  and 

The  moun- 
)rth-east  and 

is  rough  and 
the  whole 
north  and 

;d,  abound- 

lich  continue 

Ite. 

Lake  Erie 

bay  on 

fine  outlets, 

tication  with 

Ig  with  it  by 

Lawrence ; 


while  k  is  a  link  in  th^  duun  of  an  inland  navi^don,  eiif- 
lending  through  the  lakes  upwards  of  a  thouaand  niiles. 
To  the  aouth^weatf  the  state  communicaties  wiUi  the  Ohio, 
havings  an  otidet  through  the  Mississippi,  to  the  Giilphof 
Mexico ;  and,  from  the  middle,  there  is  an  outktthrbugfi 
the  Susqoeliamiah  to  the  Chesapeak-bayb  '^     - 

The  riveH  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  have  been  already 
mentibned.  'Fhe  most  impoftant  of  the  others  I  shdl  notioe 
in  their  order  from  east  to  west.  .  *.  ..  v  2^mt^|j 
The  \Lehigh  rises  among  the  mountains,  between  iIk 
Delawwe  and  Suaquehannah,  and,>  running  a  very  erook«id 
passage^  emterges  from  the  mountains  abobt  SCV  milei  from 
its  Source,  and  from  thence  runs  through  a  fine'  country 
SO  miles,'  durnig^  which  k  is  navigable,  to  Eastom  where . 
it  fidts  kta the  Delaware.  i4i|: 

'^^Sbii'tShtiquiharimk^  is  a  noble  river,  and  appeals  on  the 
map-likoa  l|vg&  crooked  tree,  with  numerous^bcanches. 
The  head  waters  of  the  eastern  branch  are  nomerous^  and 
rise  m^he  state  of  New  York,  not  £ir  fix)m  the  watbs  df^  the 
Mohawk  riv«r.  tPasung  into  the  state  of  Pdnnsyli«tu«|  k 
makes  a  remarkable  bend,  callbi^-  appr^xpiateii}^  the' j9i(|^ 
tktkL:  S^stm  thence  it  makes  a  stretch  into  New^  Yoric,  and 
passing  to  ^  westward,  about  40  miles,  turns,  i^^^  the 
southwwdji  Slid  passes  into  the  state  of  X^^^imiylvaiiia, 
where  it  terns  a  junction  with  the  Tioga  river  «i  1I\q^ 
point.  Itthenrunsasouth-eastcouvse, about 70miles;  when 
laaking^a  sudiden  bend,  at  a  right  angle,  it  runs  a  ioiith<^ 
Hiest  course^  about  8Q  itHles,  and  unites  with  the  westem 
branch,  at  Noithumberland.  The  river  is  now  nearly 
Mf  aiaUe  btoad,  and  flows  through  the  mountains^  nearly 
a  south  bourse  «of «  ^a  miles,  to  where  k  roodnras  lite 


Vol.  r. 


7 


470 


tzmnrtrMtmi, 


•Jimiltfli  river.  fVom  thenoe  It  mdiM  a  cansidaable  bend 
•toithe  cutifmtdty  land  rutinkig  about  10  miki^it  emerges 
Arohi^thrnMNinttiiis^ilbove  Hanisburg ;,  and  keepaa  south'. 
leaA;«bilirierabout  90  mika,  when  itfiiU&  intotfae  Chenf. 

The  Tioga  river  has  ila  head  vaten^nrtljirliAPemiayl. 
yixxm^^  and  |>artly  ia  New  York^  where  9QBie«]£>llie  streams 
afiindieli  nvithiii  a  few  miles  of  the  watlbrs  jof  die  St. 
Lawrence.  These  all  unite  in  New.  York  alMe,  towaudi 
iAe  rPainted  Post;  and  run  a  aoutb^eaafc  eoiiiarKof  >nearty 
NOviiiesi  to  the  junction  with  the  Su0quel0limh«n .  ,  4  a 
£^{(. The 'western,  branch  of  the  SusqiwtoiMh  kJctmed  b}^ 
^nanyatreains,;  beyond  the  AUegany r.iVM>i|iitaii)ak  9Qi»e  of 
4mai  apfffoacbing  within  a  few  miies  iof  ib^^  waters  of  the 
St  Lawrence,  and  others  within  aJbtrmyoftipf^the  Waters 
fif  ikss  Ohio  and  Misaissij^  and  mmi  a  v«iy  eirouitous 
fioiiraepdupwards  of  200  miteti,.  princ^p^jr  :a9M97tbe 
innuiit»iis»ritoi^Juiictio!i  with  the  east  branoliu  Di,:^ii  oii  i 
^ }  nShm  luniata  nvtst  nbes  on  the  .  AUegai^;  mownlaiiia, 
liewtithe; head-  wateraof  the  Coneonaugh,  a bmieh^olf  the 
^Muo^vtad  pasaing  through:  the  mountains  tiotrteeasitwanl, 
ilgr^i.iicR^r serpentine  eaarte^  it  &lls  into  te' Stttqftf IjJMmib 
•l(JafeiBM^y'ita.kngth^b^^  cy>  ^rnV^^rr 

>i^Hiferkng!th  of  the  Suai|ueha»Bab,  ^am  [|^  Chesf^eak- 
||^i^  tjbeiiead  qf  the  extern  bmnchi$;is  ^ftwrnMiOf^^O 
ieikmt  ^uid  itbe  inrhbkmer,  inolu^nigsi^  ivalersa 

«Hliili>;j  nearly  200  miles  square^  J^iiiniivig^afiirlocg)^ 
fKsaeta/cniy  a  few  mk^  tad  theitera*?  ^numji; 
9^  £iU% mdiieh  tibstruct  the  navigation!  lor  boats^^  jbut  iit 
ialfnesumfid  rthat;  these  can  be  reaiiiolviQd»^Knd'  t]|ill»i^;the 
sdAoSsaMoeiloakaaiid'  oanajs,  itcanNb<^]rea(iatfid  4mig»r 
ble^r  almost  ^o  the  source  2of  the  pastern   branch.    >  The 


ivcsieiti  branch  is  navigable^  fer  tbootsji  tmrliyiW^t/&^. 
Old  the  Juniata  nvtt  wuAy  '120»  .  From  this  flhcH^;  aQ**; 
count,  the  impcitancfr  (>f  improving  the  fiavigatiofi  of  UhH 
fine  river  will  beTcadily  inferrecU 

The  AUegany  River  rises  im  the  highest  land  in  the 
stale,  to  the  westwaid  of  the  mountains,  withih  a  feur 
miles  o£  the  head*  waters  of  the  Geilesee  River,  and  Ifaq 
western  biaach>  of  the  Susquehannah.  It  ii  here  caUo^ 
Oswaya  Cfeek,  and  runs  a;;tiQrth-^est  cotinse  into  the 
ItHte  of  New  York,  atad,  passing  again'  into  the  state  of 
Pennsylvania,  it  receives  the  waters  of.  Conewongo  Greek 
and  Chataughque  Lake.  From  thence  it  nms  a  n^inding 
course^  but  generally  south-west,  toc^  Franklita^  where  it 
receives  the  waters  of  French  Creek.  From  Ithenoe  it 
runs  a  circuitous  ^course  about  100  miles,  receiving  in  its 
progress  nlany  tributary  streamsf  particularly  Tdbyte 
Creek  and  Kishkemanetas  River ;  and  at  Pittsburg^formS 
a  junction  with  the  Monongahela,  which  together  consti- 
tute die  Ohk>.  i  .  ..-'m 
^  The  AUegany  is  a  navigable  river,  and  the  naviga- 
tbn  is  continued  through  French  Creek  to  Waterfor^ 
firom  wtKiice  there  is  a  portage  of  only  14  miles' to  Lake 
Erie.  Tlie  navigation  is  extended  into  the  country  20  oi* 
25  m^Hidi  by  the  Kishkemanetas  River.   ^«  4iif^;u.^  ^a  i 

The  M<)iMngtd)da  rises  in  Virgiraa,  near  the  Laurel 
tnountaini^  Sind^hmningbyameanderii^  course  about  70 
m^  <t'^i^^4nto  this  state ;  soon  after  which  it  received 
the  il^ii^H^  Cheat  Rivei*.  From  thence  it  continues,  1^ 
a  ^eirpe^^^  <$tiurse^  but  neai^  m  a  northern  directioH, 
ilxMitt  6amtl«s;  %here  it  forms  a  junction  m^  the  ¥6ji^ 
l<)g^,''^ahd  iSi^ce  mas  mMth.\i«8t  about '14  milei  ^ 
Pitt^uf^.'    ItiS'invvig^e  in  largQ  bdats  to  BroWnsviUb 


^: 


172 


rmtHftLrAmM.' 


and  IMttigiintbwii,  100  miln  from  its  tnbuth;  nid  from 
thence  by^^Amatt  botts  40  miles  fitfther.  The  wtstcm 
bfanch  is  slso  navigable  in  lagh  water.  i ' 

The  Yoxhiogem  rises  in  Maiyland,  aiid  runs  a  course 
cast  of  iiortfh,  about  40  miles,  beibre  it  passes /into  this 
italie.  from  thence  )it  runs  a  nCrth^tvest  oonrae,  and, 
pas^g  the  Laurel  Hil)  and  Chesnut  Ridge,  Ibrms  the 
jnnctioa^  with  the  Monongahela  above^mentiohed';  its 
whole  length  being  about  100  miles.  /•       <iMl 

trThift  state  is  well  supplied  with  iron  ore,  and  coal 
abomlds  in  many|)boe8,  particularly  in  the  western  couiii 
tiy^  Slate  b  found  m  several  places ;  and  marble  and 
freestone,  of  an  excellent  quality,  are  found  in  great  abun- 
dance.  / '  Limestone  is  also  in  great  plenty,  and  some  cop- 
per and  lead  have  been  found,-  but  not. in  sufficient  quan- 
tity to:  be  wrought.    There  are  many  mineral  springs  in 

the' state.  .  ^)^\^\*ivh'i:  •f^y^f^:\  ■  "^r'~} 

The  soil  to  the  east  of  the  mountains  is  generally  good^ 
and  a  considerable  part  of  it  is  bedded  oa '  limestone. 
,Among  the  mountains,  the  land  is  roughs  and  much  of  it 
poor ;  but  there  are  a  great/many  rich  and  fertile  valleys. 
^o  the  west  of  the  mountains,  the  soil  is  generally  eicceU 
lent.  ■■vf^^v.it/'M-'      >-.  ■■•<•       <■  ■•. 

''**:  The  climate  is  very  various.  Cfn  the  east  ^ide  o£  the 
lAUegany  mountains  it  is  pretty  rimilar  to  iefsey,  already 
descrUsed.  It  is,  in  common  with  ^le  othec  countries  east 
of  the  mouiitauis^  subject  to  g^feat  and  sudden  cfinages.; 
but  it  is  considered  more  settled  than  immedi^t^y  on  t|ie 
sea-board,  and  is  perfectly  healthy^  The  winter  coynmencea 
about  the  SOth  of  Decemberr  and  the  spring  ^^ets  in  about 
two  weeks  eariier  than  at  Mew  York,  4wofig  tb^rioiouif- 
latns  there  is  a  sharp  atmosphere,  witb;  ai  cle^j.f^j|Jed 


't 


BUnrfTLTAMIA. 


4 

I7t 


^  Then  h  finosi  fllmost  every  month  in  the  jreAr  m 
«MBe.plaJoes}  and  the  extremes  of  beat  and  cold  are  cony 
fliderable.  The  wintera  may  be  reckoned  a  month  longer 
Am  to  the  eastward.  The  whole  region  ia  very  healthy. 
4^Tbe  cottntry  beyond  the  mountains  baa  a  temperate  oh^ 
male,  with  a  considerable  portion  of  cloudy  weather ;  and 
the  winters  are  more  humid  and  mild  than  on  the  Atiantic. 

The  atate  was  firat  setded  by  the  Sweden  and  Fin- 
landers  in  1627,  and  afterwards  by  the  ilhislnous  William 
Pernii  in  1681 ;  and  from  the  liberal  principles  which 
be  adopted*  and  the  encouragement  held  out  to  settlers  of 
all  idcnominations^  the  country  experienced  a  rapid  pro- 
gress. The  state  took  an  active  part  in  the  revolutionary 
war^  during  great  part  of  which  Philadelphia  was  the  seat 
e|. congress.  A  state  constitution  was  framed  at  an  early 
period  of  the  war ; .  but  a  new  one  was  adopted  in  1790; 
The  state  now  sends  two  senators  and  eighteen  represe»' 
latives  to  congress.  :.m 

Pennsylvania  is  divided  into  37  counties,  and  upwards 
of  500  townships.  The  peculation,  in  1800,  was  602,365; 
including  1150  slayes,  being  id)out  12  persons  to  the 
aquare-mile^-'''^' '^' =**-■'■'■ 'i*  .»^-;---^*v-f't'v,Tf  .:-.•!*■■-, -^  rr-^»f-iv- 

The  state  has  made  rapid  progress  in  national  improve- 
loeiits,  tod  abounds  in  all  the  conveniences,  and  many  of 
die  li^xuries  of  life*  The  accumulation  of  property  since 
die  cjbae  of  the  war  is  very  great ;  and,  exclusive  of  Phi- 
lade^hiii,  the  state' oontains  12  to^ms,  in  which  there  are 
from  1000  to  4500  inhabitimfts,  among  which  Lancaster, 
Yoric^  Reading,  Carlisle,  and  Pittsburgh  «re  the  most 
conspicuous.  Besides  these,  there  are  upwards  of  20 
iflQages^eaoh  containing  from  100  to  1000  inhabitants, 
and  ithe  g^ter  part,  if  not.  the  whole  of  those  towns  and 

4 


'* 


'% 


174 


immiiiTafkwiMt 


t 


tttlagcs  aiie  maitmung  in  wadih  «nd  pdpnlaMir  Tfak 
form  lxMiiM>4tfti  mostly  comfoitablr,  itiaMjr  of  than '«le*^ 
gant,'4mli  tere'  an  Ane  barris  and '  olher.  buildings*  The 
state  isMnell  impnyved  by  lumpikd  roads  and  bridge;  and 
kttdyf  a^g^t  degree  of  attentioiiniaB  been  paid  to  canals; 
Many  turnpike^  and'  canal  eompuniea  hive  been  Jbrmed.  : 
v:  The  agnciih!uiie  of  the  state  haa  piogi««se<lra]iidty,  and 
is  in  stti  advancect  state.  The  atapfo^irticle  it>  wheatf  of 
which  the  ^nanlity  manliiactiiredfiiiio  flour  innualiy  is 
ihimenae;  It  is.reckoned  the  best  in^  the^^  United  Staie^ 
and  BiirpasBed  by  none  in  the  worid;  (The  mountainouA 
district  is  pretty  much  applied  to  rasing  stools.  *  The 
breediof  horses  is  teckoned  the  best  m  the  tJnItid  States* 
She^  have  of  Jate  greatly  inci:«ased,  land  thfivo  fttiharka^ 
bly  well.  All  the  grains,  grasses,  and  roots  commtti  tatht 
dthet  states  thrive  here.  The  stock  of  Ihiity  paltiduMf 
peaches,  is  excellent ;  and  some  progress  has  of  Iflie  beeb 
made  in  the  cultivation  of  the  vine.  '•""'  n?v  .^itj 

H  PennsjAvania  b  said  to  be  oine  of  the  graitesi  flfiiffiilic- 
lliiring  states  kv  tlieMUnion.  Domestic  manufiMStbt^is'  at« 
goiend  throiighoiit  the  state ;  but  theite  aife  tihaiiy  hlfiimiL 
factures  on  a  large  scale,  some  of  which  may  be^cSllime- 
rated.  Of  uxm  there  are  above  30  iumaee^  beMd«S  ^hu- 
tnerous  forges,  slitting  mills,  ittidtiip  htiffim^;  Of  t<^%)od, 
idl  sorts'  of  ftimiture^  and  impletti^ts  •of  •  ^^bail(ilr^<  ^  Of 
leather,  boots,  shoes^  saddles,  bri^esy^'harrkss^  ^t^'  Of 
wool,  a  variety  of  cloths,  stockingir^  and- hntti '  T^igiBM' 
with  a  varidty  of  other  artieles^^i^  ^Mlt  li<!^^, '^jn- 
Tits,  glass,  ttshes;^  mapl^^  silgar,  hiu^iletSy  ^^^Her^  iiidk, 
balls,  canno%beBs,  «cc.&^;-  'in<vAl      .amii-nqdiuxi 

<8  *  The  exports  cohs«itl  prtrtclj^  oF^^gi^;  floiii*,  itbh 
Utensils,  flaxseed,  soap  and' 'ta^idles,  l^Tiilberj  Bi^- ^i)bi^, 


^ 


tWirtTLyAVIA. 


173 


liiT  Tfafe 
them  ele*^ 
gBs  The 
dges;  and 
to  oaiiE^ 

I  mYtutt\  of 
mnually  is 
ited  Stales^ 
ountttltioiiA 
ck.  '  The 

ffnin  to  t)it 
;tf  iBiK&beeb 


to  Tkftilinount  of  YxpcrtB,  in  1805,  was  1^,763^252 
dbUmjifif  wliicftr  4,365^240: doUir^  wn  domotk  piodaoe. 
Tht  |ifiiK)ipykiaiticl«i  of  cxp6it  to  Briudn  avet  gnin  and 

frmff /ind  ioinD  totton  from  the  sottthcm  sMcb.  The 
impQfta  CQiiaist/of  £aafc  andWoat  India  ahdiChinrgpods; 
liriBB^  tpOi  ftu:.-fiBQnLthe€Diilineiil'Qf  £urope^  jBKliiiami- 
:f»tx^Kmkom  Bntaisittif:  which  the  quanlilf  mpdrHid  is 
imncoaai  and  ia'ycar^  increasing.  tThfi  Yalaci  a£  imports 
iMribout  ;12,Q0Q|00aMolkir»  anmieUy^of  m4^  irain 

jkitan  area fvU Mf ;  from  whence  wcma^ infer «|^>iiiA- 
liljl  olclhAiliade  to  balhiiiountiies,.  and  thi:  imporliince  df 
a  good  understanding  between  them.  *'  fv>v>m 

The  state  of  society  may  be  pretty  much  inferred  from 
the  preceding  remarks.  The  inhabitants  have  every  ex- 
ternal appearance  of  ease  and  affluence,  and  they  are  re- 
markably civil  and  industrious.  There  are  no  beggars  to 
be  seen  here.  Indeed,  I  have  not  yet  seen  any  in  the 
United  States,  which  is  a  remarkable  contrast  to  Europe, 
and  bears  testimony  to  the  prosperity  of  the  country. 

The  civil  government  is  vested  in  a  legislature,  consist- 
ing of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives.  The  senators 
are  chosen  for  four  years,  and  the  representatives  annually, 
by  the  people.  The  executive  authority  is  vested  in  a 
governor,  who  is  also  elected  by  the  people,  and  holds 
his  office  for  three  years.  The  constitution  declares, 
"  That  all  men  are  bom  equally  free  and  independent ; — 
that  all  power  is  inherent  in  the  people; — ^that  all  men 
liave  a  natural  and  indefeasible  right  to  worship  God  ac- 
cording to  the  dictates  of  their  own  consciences,  and  no 
man  can  of  right  be  compelled  to  attend,  erect,  or  support 
any  place  of  worship,  or  to  maintain  any  ministry  against 
his  consent ; — that  no  human  authority  can,  in  any  case 


xn 


PBVll«Tt.YAHIA. 


wbiMver,  oomroul  or  kiterfiere  wkh  the  rigfati  of  con. 
«cieiioe»  mad  that  no  prefbenoe  afaall  «¥cr  be  'givcii^  by 
kw,  to  ai^  religious  CftBblishnientSy  or  niodee  of  wot. 
ship ;— tlHit  eketioni  ahsU  be  free  and  equal  ;^-*4liat-tritl 
by  jury  ahall  be  imdoUne  i  >  that  ho  law  ahiil  ever  be 
made  to  reatrapn  the  liberty  of  the  ^rei8{»-4hat  the  people 
shril  be*  aeoBfe  agaioit  all  umrairaMtable  aearchee,  and 
exoeaaive  b«l  ahall  not  be  required  ;«-*4hat  the  legiahttuie 
ifaaM  pronde^'by  law  for  the  eMMrfmient  6f  ashoek 
ftioiij^imtftfae  state,  in  such  s jliailBer  to  the  poor m^ 
betang^  grBlit;<Mhe  arts  and 'aoienoea  ahall'  be>  pnt 

mOted.**  '•  ;-»«.(>■'  ■•''":;^'' !..}.' r'.i;m  /wKJT^'fj 


i4^'*-i-  ■, 

' '' 

;     1        .  jfi'>0'  'tfj   ')('; 

kifv  Tr-:.   -'''k  hiM  '.,'•    '  > 

,  .      •'        >    ;'■  i:iifie» 

r>t    -        i-\  Of!  ""  .    ■    '^ 

' 

■   ■    ' 

.-  «M44)^iNi«i»' 

>rf^  r         •    M 

-• 

■■I         '  ■;  '•'    '•     •.ff-'-'f^ 

,'^r!<VTt'^l"Ot  ./:  .;;■■>••' 

^-ft'.- 

...-.j.; 

'!.■/   ,r.»  !<  h>'MT  i 

■  ■,!,.'!,.»<}  jjjf) 'j:      / 

■        -•       ■  ,  '• 

•  .  fjr^,if.'*>i-jff  ■;<>■*{' i,H^'^-.. 

^t^fr..      ^if^---'' 

1 

i',.!  ■;»*■■: 

■     '  ^' ■".>*» 'tlV^"*  ■  'i^  ■'  ' 

«tirrt;:»' -    t/i     .; 

.         .'Afi 

■r>.         "■■  ■    ■*  -;  '^  »  ,■'' 

^i'-^  f    -Tfreovt             ■  ;  • 

.   .     - 

"■           M'|--V 

''..''     '  .**■ 

|!-,:nt   1^  .♦■'■••.    :  •    ■ 

.      .     \  ■■■■'>    • 

,         ,                   -.,    /    r--y  . 

^:-'. 


■  v. 


;t  ' 


f> 


ff.' 


•  ^-J;  ;^  .-r.y^*f..4rs'  J.  , 


<      '  % 


)  n7^= 


BELAWABB.^''- 


1.77 


i  of  con- 

[iiwi*  by 

rf  iror- 

'  cnfcr  ''06 
ht  people 
Eii6B»  and 
tuiiiiilrtHir 
i  Bdhoch 
pDornu^ 
I  be^pid* 
. ,  .  '■"  '. 
si/*  siVi' 

I'j^  '.:•  '^ '  ,'■'■ 


■  (' 


"^••irt  V 


'.''"r 


..,i\rl 


/"t-Jit 


■J> 


*'^'  CHAPTER  XXVII. 


*yt|:yf^)L)    -kJi    f>,(i:       til!    .J  . 

.  Delaware  rtvef^ — Newcastle. 


■/»,ff» 


Tuesday,  {September  30.  Haying  engaged  a  pas- 
9i(ge  on  board  a  packet-boat  bound  to  Newcaatle,  40  miles, 
b^w  thiacit}r,  I.  went  on  board,  this  morning,  at  7  o'dock*^ 
The  packet  was  called  the  Hope,  and  was  one  of  a^line^ofi 
boats  tliat.nin  between  Philadelphia  and  Newcastle;  from, 
thence  there  is  a  communication  by  stages  across  the  state 
of  I  Delaware  to  the  Chesapeak  bay,  where  another  line  of 
b^liits,  connected  with  this,  proceeds  to  Baltimore:  the 
whole  called,  appropriately,  Land  and  Water  Stages*  The 
distance  by  this  route  is  about  120  miles,  and  the  fiire,  in- 
clifding  board,  is  about  three  dollars.      *  m. 

We  set  sail  with  a  light  wind,  and  almost  right  against 
us;  bjit  the,  tide  was  in  our  favour, and  we  made  tolerable 
progress  till  we  reached  six  miles  below  Phikiddphia, 
where  we  got  aground  on  a  place  called  the  Horse-Shoe, 
\Yhere  we  lay  nearly  two  hours.  After  getting  off,  wo 
sailed  about  four  miles,  when  we  were  obliged  to  come  to 
anchor,  the  wind  and  tide  being  both  against  us.  Having 
stopped  here  till  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  weighed 
anchor,  and  sailed  eight  or  ten  mil^  >  but  the  wind  wi^ 
right  ahead,  and  had  encreased  too  much  to  beat  down,  90 
we  were  obliged  again  to  come  to  anchor.  We  once  more 
set  sml  at  11  o'clock  at  night,  and  next  mommg,  at  5 
o'clock,  we  reached  Newcasde' 

VOL.  I. 


z 


178 


TIAfBLt  Ilf 


The  liter  at  Philadelphia  u  about  a  mile  broad,  and  it 
widens  as  you  proceed  downwards.  At  Newcastle  it  is 
two  miles  broad ;  from  thence  it  spreads  out  into  the  Dela- 
ware bay.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  level,  and  covered 
with  wood ;  and  the  lands  rise  to  a  consklerable  height  at 
a  distance,  affording  in  some  places  pretty  good  views. 
The  only  rivers  of  note. that  join  the  Delaware  between 
Philadelphia  and  Newcasde,  are  the  Schuylkill  and  Bran-, 
dywine  creek.  The  post-road  to  Baltimore  runs  along  the 
western  bank,  and  passes  through  Darby  and  Chester  in 
Pennsylvania,  and  Wilmington  in  the  state  of  Delaware ; 
which  last  is  a  large  town,  and  has  a  very  pretty  appear- 
ance when  viewed  fh>m  the  river.  On  the  east  side,  in 
Aersey^  are  Gloucester,  Woodbury,  and  Swedesborough. 

Newcastle,  where  we  stopped,  is  a  small  town  contain- 
ing about  200  houses,  some  of  them  handsome.  It  carries 
on  a  considerable  trade,  principally  in  wheat. 

October  1st  Having  taken  an  early  breakiast,  at  a  very 
good  tavern,  we  set  out  in  the  stage  for  the  head  of  £lk 
river;  The  road  passes  13  miles  through  the  state  of  De- 
laware, and  11  miles  throu^  Maryland ;  and'  I  found  the 
whole  distance  a  perfect  level,  without  a  dngle  object  to 
excite  attention,  or  gratify  the  imagination.  The  road  was 
very  bed,  the  lands  alternately  sandy  and  marshy ;  and  the 
people  had  a  saHow  sickly  colour :  the  whole  indicating  a 
country  somewhat  similar  to  the  low  lands  of  Carolina  and 
Georgia.  But  I  was  informed  that  this  was  a  sort  oi  bye- 
road,  which  had  been  taken  by  this  line  of  stages,  and  tint 
it  led  through  the  very  worst  part  of  the  country. 


t 


DBLAWABE. 


M*ir   'i9&- 


179 


ciiAFrER  xxvm. 


Delaware, 

The  state  of  Delawaire  b  situated  between  38°  29'  and 
39°  47'  north  latitude,  and  I''  15'  and  1""  56'  east  longi. 
tude.  Its  greatest  length  is  100  miles,  and  greatest  breadth 
about  37 ;  its  area  being  about  2200  square  miles,  or  about 
1,408,000  acres. 

The  fiice  of  a  great  part  of  the  countiy  is  level,  abound- 
ing with  swamps  and  stagnant  water ;  but  toward  thenorth- 
cm  part  it  is  more  elevated,  and  near  its  extremity  there  is 
a  considerable  chain  of  hills. 

There  are  numerous  creeks  in  the  state,  but  no  rivers 
of  consequence.  The  principal  one  b  Brandy  wine  creek, 
which  Ms  into  the  Delaware  at  Wilmington,  and  on  which 
there  are  numerous  milb  and  manu&ctories.  ^ 

The  state  is  well  supplied  with  iron,  but  I  did  not  hear 
of  any  other  mineral. 

The  soil,  in  the  southern  pert,  b  low  and  sandy,  and  en- 
tirely free  of  stones ;  in  the  northern  part  it  b  more  diver- 
sified, and  mixed  with  clay  and  loam. 

The  climiate  partakes  of  the  configuration  of  the  country^ 
The  southern  part  has  a  humid  atiftosphere,  often  foggy 
and  un^dmlesome ;  but  is  mild  and  temperate  in  winter. 
The  northern  part  b  agreeable  and  healthy. 

The  settlement  of  thb  state  was  coeval  with  that  of 
Penn^lvama.    It  took  an  active  part  in  the  revolution, 


tm 


DELAWARE. 


uid  sent  two  delegates  to  the  first  congress.  The  state 
constitution  was  adopted  in  1792.  It  now  sends  two  se- 
nators  and  one  representative  to  congress. 

Delaware  is  divided  into  three  counties  and  24  dis- 
tricts called  hundreds*  The  population,  in  1800,  was  64,273, 
including  6143  slaves;  being  about  29  to  tlie  square 
mile. 

The  state  of  Delaware  is  considerably  improved,  and 
besides  many  towns  and  villages  of  inferior  note,  contains 
sevend  of  considerable  size.  The  most  important  are,— • 
Wilmington^  already  mentioned,  a  large  thriving  town, 
built  on  the  plan  of  Philadelphia,  consisting  of  500  houses, 
a  court-house,  jail,  and  four  places  for  public  worship; 
it  carries  on  a  very  considerable  trade.  Newcttstle  h3& 
been  noticed.  Dcvkr  is  the  seat  of  government,,  and 
contains  about  600  inhabitants.  Lewistawn  contains  about 
750;  and  Georgetown  about  200^ 

A  canal  was  projected  across  this  state  and  part  of  Ma- 
ryland, to  form  a  junction  between  the- Delaware  and 
Chesapeak,  and  it  is  partly  cut ;  but  tlie  work  was  stop- 
ped for  want  of  funds.  It  may  probably  be  well-  that  it  is 
so ;  for  it  was  projected  on  too  small  a  scale,  and,  in  pro- 
cess of  time,  will  probably  give  way  to  one  that  will  admit 
of  sloq)  navigation.  I  liever  observed  a  finer  situation  for 
a  canal.  The  distance  between  the  Delaware  and  Chesa- 
peak is  only  about  18  or  20  miles,  and  the  country  is 
nearly  level,  so  that  few  locks  will  be  requisite ;  and  were 
a  canal  cut,  it  would4brm  a  connexion  between  two  of  tlie 
finest  rivers  in  America,  and  be  a  link  in  the  chain  of  an 
internal  navigation  of  vast  extent.  W^si 

The  greater  part  .if  the  inhabitants  of  this  state  ar6r  de- 
voted to  agricultural  pursuits,  and  they  have  rendered  it 


DSLAWAEE. 


181 


The  state 
ds  two  se- 

id  24  dis- 
m  64,273, 
tlie  square 

roved,  and 
te,  contains 
rtant  are,— • 
ving  town, 
500  houses, 
ic  worship; 
Tvettsth  has 
nmeht,.  and 
ntains  about 
'  I'i-  '' •■      ' 
part  of  liila- 
^ware  and 
k  was  stop- 
krellthatitis 
and,  in  pro- 
at  will  admit 
situation  for 
and  Chesa- 
country  is 
; ;  and  were 
two  of  the 
chain  of  an 

ite  are  de- 
rendered  it 


very  productive.  The  principal  produce  is  wheat,  rye, 
Indian  com,  barley,  oats,  and  flax.  Grasses  are  abundant, 
and  thrive  very  li)xuriantly,  fumisliing  food  for  many  cat- 
tle—- and  every  sort  of  vegetable  common  to  the  states 
already  described  thrive  wdl  here.  The  staple  produce 
is  wlieat,  of  which  a  great  quantity  of  flour  is  made  for 
export. 

Flour  is  the  principal  manufacture  carried  on  in  the 
state.  The  mills  on  Brandy  wine  creek  are  in  great  per- 
fection, giving  employment  to  upwards  of  600  hands ; 
and  they  manufacture  upwards  of  half  a  million  of  busliels 
annually.  The  other  articles  consist  principally  of  iron, 
paper,  and  lumber.  In  these,  a  very  extensive  trade  is 
carried  on,  principally  with  the  other  states  and  the  West 
Indies.  The  exports  in  1805  amounted  to  358,383  dol- 
lars, of  which  280,556  was  foreign  produce.  The  prin- 
cipal trade  with  Britain  is  carried  on  tlirough  the  medium 
of  Philadelphia. 

A  very  considerable  fund  is  appropriated  by  the  state 
to  the  support  of  schools,  which  are  pretty  numerous,  and 
there  are  two  fburishing  academies;  one  at  Wilmington, 
and  thp  other  at  Newark.  « 

The  constitution  guarantees  equal  rights  to  all  the  citi- 
zens, without  regard  to  property  or  religious  opinions.  The 
government  is  vested  in  a  governor,  a  senate,  and  house  of 
representatives,  which  are  elected  by  ballot,  and  "  e^'ery 
white  fineeman  of  tlie  age  of  21,  who  has  resided  in  th6 
state  two  years  next  before  the  elebtion,  shall  enjoy  the 
right  of  an  elector.  The  sons  of  persons  so  qualified  sliall, 
betwixt  the  ages  of  21  and  22,  be  entitled  to  vote,  though 
they  have  paid  no  taxes." 


m 


T«AVEIS,1J| 


^  ^^jH^ 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


t-^t*»*5^  ;-i'^ 


iW'%t*^'f'ltU¥--^ir^ 


'^  Chesapeak  baify — Baltimore, 

On  the  1st  of  October,  1806,  the  day  being  clear 
and  beautiful,  we  arrived  at  Elk  river,  a  branch  of  Chesa- 
peak  bay,  here  about  two  miles  broad.  At  1  o'clock  we 
stepped  aboard  the  packet,  and  immbdiately  set  sail  M^th  a 
lair  wind ;  and  enjoyed  oiu:  situation  very  much  ato*  the 
dull  scenery  we  had  passed,  and  the  disagreeable  jolting 
in  the  stage. 

•'i-  Having  sailed  about  two  miles,  we  passed  a  pnetty  large 
creek,  called  Bohe  Rivor,  and,  at  half  past  3  o'clock,  reach* 
ed  the  Chesapeak  bay.  The  view  here  was  extensive  and 
sublime.  The  bay  is  about  six  or  seven. miles  broadband 
its  banks  abound  in  rich  scenery,  while  its  waters  were 
animated  with  a  great  variety  of  small  vessels.  To  the 
north-west  is  the  entrance  of  the.  fine  river  Susqudiannah^ 
about  a  mile  broad,  and  its  banks  swell  out  into  hills  of 
considerable  magnitude,  which  terminated  our  view  in 
that  direction.  To  the  east  the  country  is  low,  and  the 
soil  appears  poor  and  sandy.  * 

The  v«and  shifted  to  the  eastward,  which  conaderably 
retarded  our  progress ;  but  this  afforded  mt  more  leisure 
to  survey  the  scenery,  which  was  every  where  pleasant 
The  number  of  small  vessels  that  we  saw  was  very  great, 
indicatmg  a  considerable  commerce. 


.■  / 

« 


MABTLAND. 


Ida 


t  4-'T?. 


I'f'^^J.-  '■'  - 

tng  clear 
>f  Chesa- 
clock  wc 
ail  with  a 
latothe 
tie  jolting 

lettylargc 
ick,reaeh- 
;n^ve  and 
sroad^and 
inters  Mrere 
,  To  the 
udiannah, 
:o  hills  of 
view  in 
,  and  the 

laderably 

leisure 

pleasant 

[ery  great, 


October  2d.  Having  gone  to  bed  last  evening  early, 
I  rose  this  morning  at  1  o'clock,  when  I  found  it  dear  and 
cold;  and  a  considerable  breeze  blowing  from  the  north- 
west I  thought  at  first  that  this  was  in  our  favour,  but  I 
soon  found  that  we  had  in  the  night  passed  the  branch 
that  leads  to  Bdtimore,  and  were  nearly  as  far  down  as  An- 
napolis*^  We  had  therefore  to  beat  up  all  the  way  to  Bal- 
timore, now  distant  about  20  miles.  However,  the  vessel 
sailed  remarkably  well,  and  we  made  good  progress.  Dur- 
ing  the  passage  upwards  we  had  a  very  fine  view.  We 
arrived  at  Baltimore  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Having  taken  lod^ngs  at  Evans'  tavern,  I  called  on  a 
friend  to  whom  I  had  2i  letter  o£  introduction,  and  he  po- 
litely ofifelred  his  services  to  fiicilitate  my  inquiries  at  Bal- 
timore. On  my  return  to  the  tavern  to  breakikst,  I  wa^ 
astonished  to  see  the  number  of  well-dressed  men  who  sat 
dowh  to  table,  amounting  to  abbut  80,  and  I  was  told  the 
number  was  seldom  under  40  or  50.  This  is  partly  ac- 
counted for  by  Baltimore  being  the  great  thorough-fare 
between  the  northern  and  southern  states;  and  the  number 
of  people  passing  to  and  fro,  on  business  and  pleasure, 
is  -immense.  I  learned  that  a  great  number  of  strangers 
mst  in  the  city  at  tliis  time ;  among  others,  my  old 
friends  and  Mow-travellers,  the  Georgia  major  Bnd  the 
fiwetiotts  EngUshmart,  They  lodged  at  Bryden's  tavern, 
a  house  nearly,  or  altogether,  as  much  fi^uented  as 
Evans'^ 

Accompanied  by  my  fiiend,  I  went  to  see  the  market- 
house,  which  is  handsomely  fitted  up,  and  well  siipi^d 
with  provisions:  the  prices,  I  wa:s  told,  were  reasonalde, 
and  nearly  the  same  as  at  Philadelphia.  From  thence  we 
went  to  the  coffee-house.     On  our  ^vay  my  friend  pointed 


184 


,« 


Tififits  M 


.  out,  through  a  window,  a  very  handsome  lady  with  her  child, 
who  he  in£;>rmed  me  were  the  wife  and  child  of  Jerome  Bo- 
nf^arte.  The  coffee-house  is  small,  but  commodious,  and 
is  well  supplied  with  newspapers,  from  every  part  of  the 
United  States.  From  the  coffee-house  we  went  to  the 
library,  which  contains*  a  very  excellent  collection  of  books, 
and  is  under  good  management.  The  amiual  subscription 
'  ^  four  dollars.  The  whole  city  exhibited  a  very  hand- 
some appearance;  and  the  country  round  abounds  in  villas, 
gardens,  and  well-cultivated  fields. 

In  the  afternoon  I  went  to  view  the  ship-yards,  and  saw 
a  three-masted  schooner  launched.  I  was  informed  that  a 
great  many  of  these  vessels  are  built  at  Baltinu)re,  and  that 
they  are  reckoned  the  festest  sailing  vessels  in  the  Umted 

States*.    ■■■        : i\*€*f;  rr'swj '"5fft  ftf :-—    ..,••, 

?i  I  spent  a  very  pkasant  evening  at  Bryden's,  along  with 
my  friendi  m  company  with  the  major  and  the  English- 
man. The  major  related  a  number  of  marvellous  adven- 
tures he  had  met  with  jn  his  journey,  luid  concluded  by 
informing  us  that  he  was  to  drive  tandem  all  Uie  way  to 
Georgia,  and  was  to  be  accompanied  by  an  elegant  kidy, 
and  her  husband,  whom  he  had  engaged  ad  a  clerk.  To 
accommodate  his  suite ^  he  was  to  take  a  Jersey  waggon, 
in  which  he  politely  offered  me  a  passage;  but  I  preferred 
travelUiig  in  my  own  way,  and  declined  it.  The  Eng- 
lishman informed  me  that  he  was  to  leave  Baltimore  next 
morning  by  the  stage  for  Cumberland,  and  was  from 
thence  to  travel  through  the  interior  of  the  country  to 
New  Orleans,  availing  himself  of  land  or  water  convey- 
ance as  he  might  find  it  most  suitable  and  expeditious. 

Baltimore  is  situated  on  a  branch  of  the  Patapsco 
river,  called  the  Bason^  15  miles  from  the  Chesapeak  bay, 


meno 
rabies 
that  it 
States, 
by  the 
of  whc 
of  bri( 
public 
house, 
change, 
Thenu 
^  chi< 
boots  ai 
adjoinin 
forges,  y 
Thes 
Ae  four 
centres  i 
wealth 
trade  is 
Pennsyb 
river;  an 
'eshippin 
duce,^— r 
ports  are  1 
supply  of 
trade.    I 

em  states 
It  is  50 
which  has 
Ae  inhabi 

VOL.    I. 


■ARYLA171>. 


185 


ler  child, 
EAne  Bo- 
ous,  and 
rt  of  the 
It  to  the 
[)t  books, 
)8cri|»tion 
ay  hand- 
i  in  villas, 


■        .■,-*'l5.-    ' 

aloiigivith 
:  English' 
ms  adven- 
Lcludfidby 
way  to 
:gantlady, 
Icrk.    To 
waggon, 
preferred 
'he  Eng- 
[more  next 
was  from 
jountry  to 
;r  convey- 
iidpus. 
Patapsco 

ipeak  bay, 


and  160  miles  fibm  the  Atlantic  oic^m  At  the  com- 
mencement of  thie  Ameridn  war,  it  was  but  an  inconside- 
rable viNiage ;  but  such  has  been  the  rapidity  of  its  growth^ 
that  it  \h  now  the  fbUrth  commercial  city  in  the  United 
States.  It  contains  upwards  of  6000  dtv^lUng-houses,  and, 
by  the  census  of  1600,  the  inhabitants  amounted  to  26,514^, 
of  whom  2843  were  slaves.  The  houses  are  mostly  built 
of  brick,  and  many  of  them  are  elegant.  The  principal 
public  -buildings  are  13  places  of  public  worship,  a  court- 
house, a  jail,  three  market-houses,  a  poor-house,  the  ex- 
change, theatre,  observatory,  assembly-rooms,  and  library. 
The  manu&ctures  of  Baltimore  are  cciisiderable,  and  con- 
sist chiefly  of  ships,  cordage,  iron  utensils,  paper,  saddleiy, 
boots  and  shoes,  hats,  wool  and  cotton  cards,  8cc.  In  the 
adj(nning  country  there  are  numerous  mills,  furnaces,  and 
forges,  which  contribute  much  to  the  trade  of  the  city. 

The  state  of  Maryland,  in  point  of  foreign  trade,  ranks 
ifae  fourth  in  die  union,  and  as  a  very  great  pordon  of  it 
centres  in  Baltimore,  it  must  necessarily  add  greatly  to  its 
wealth  and  importance.  A  great  portion  of  the  export 
trade  is  flour,  much  of  which  is  received  from  the  state  of 
Pennsylvania,  through  the  medium  of  the  Susquehannah 
river;  and  the  citizens  have  a  brisk  trade  in  importing  and 
reshipping  foreign  articles,  particularly  West  India  pro- 
duce,-'— rum,  sugar,  and  cofiee.  A  great  portion  of  the  im- 
ports are  manufactured  goods  fix>m  Britain,  and,  having  the 
supply  of  an  immense  back  country,  this  is  an  increasing 
trade.  I  learned,  too,  that  many  of  the  people  in  the  west- 
em  states  give  Baltimore  the  preference  to  Philadelphia. 
It  is  50  miles  nearer  to  Pittsburg  than  the  latter  city, 
which  has  a  natural  tendency  to  secure  a  preference;  and 
the  inhabitants  of  Maryland,  who  seem  to  appreciate  the 


VOL.    I. 


2    A 


/ 


JL86 


TRAVELS  IK 


importance  of  this  trade,  have  acted  l^kh  a  laudable  zeal 
in  making  good  roads.  Upon  the  whole,  I  was  highly 
pleased  with  the  commercial  importance  of  Baltimore,  and 
regretted  that  I  did  not  fix  upon  this  place  £br  my  com- 
mercial establishment,  in  place  of  $ayannah.  The  trade  of 
Baltimore  is  facilitated  by  three  banks,  having  all  ample 
capitals.  One  is  a  branch  of  the  bank  of  the  United 
States.  '  ., . 

The  affairs  of  the  city  are  under  the  management  of  a 
city  council,  consisting  of  two  branches,  and  a  mayor. 
The  police  seems  to  be  under  good  regulations,  and  the 

>  streets  are  kept  very  clean,  which  secures  good  health  to 
the  citizens.  Education  is  pretty  well  attended  to,  and 
the  citizens  are  said  to  be  hospitable  and  industrious. 
The  men  rank  as  correct  men  of  business;  and  as  to  the 

^ladies,  I  saw  but  little  of  them^ and  can  only  say,  in  the 
language  of  the  quaker,  **  they  loqk  well." 


^. 


:;    '  i',> 


>  u- 


i,  r 


.iiiiii 


Thi! 

kiitude 
tromel 

tremet 
irregula 
miles,  ( 
water. 
The 
isboun( 
extremit 
waters,  ] 
itpresen 
The  east 
continue 
level  to  J 
fry,  and 
TheC 
merits  a 
tancetot 
raUy.    1 

hannah  B 
h  ir  of  sn 
and  so  cc 
timore. 


;    / 


ible  zeal 
IS  highly 
nore,and 
my  com- 
le  trade  of 
all  ample 
e  United 

ment  of  a 
a  mayor, 
s,  and  the 
L  health  to 
xl  to,  and 
idustrious. 
1  as  to  the 
say,  in  the 


HARYLAl^O.  187 

.    *'«v;''— -^/lifetyiilAJikifi^u/"-'/*,     •,' ''l"''- V*;f^ilfl4<li^»■*li■J#f■ 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


■■It*'. 


HI- 
if 


:ii^f*l?^  '.'S' 


Maryland, 

This  state  U  situated  between  38°  and  39°  43'  north 
l&iitiide,  and  2°  east  and  2°  fXf  west  longitude.  Its  ex- 
treme ]eng^-At>m  east  to  west  is  212  miles,  and  its  ex- 
treme breadth  from  north  to  soudi  is  123 ;  but  it  is  very 
irregular.  If  iis  compu^  to  contain  about  14}000  square 
miles,  or  8,960,000  acresj  of  which  abdUt  one-fourth  is 
water.      -^  .■, "  i  '-  ■ ;  ■•  ^'   ■ ' 

The  fece  of  the  country  is  remarkably  variegated.  It^ 
is  bounded  on  the  south-west  by  the  river  Potomac  to  its 
extremity;  and  the  fine  Chesapeak  Bay,  with  its  numerous 
waters,  passes  throu^  the  middle  of  it.  On  the  east  side, 
it  presents  a  coast  of  about  35  miles  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
The  eastern  shore  is  low,  level,  and  sandy.  The  country 
continues  to  rise  by  a  very  gentle  ascent,  but  is  generally 
level  to  Baltimore.  It  then  swells  out'  into  a  hilly  coun- 
try, and  the  western  part  stretches  across  the  mountains. 

The  Chesapeak  Bay  has  been  aheady  iK>ticed ;  but  it 
merits  a  more  particular  description,  from  its  vast  impw- 
tanceto  this  state,  and,  indeed,  to  the  United  States  gene- 
rally. This  bay  is  formed  by  the  outlet  of  the  Susque- 
hannah  River,  where  it  receives  French  Creek,  and  a  num- 
b.^r  of  smaller  streams.  It  is  there  about  7  miles  broad, 
and  so  continues  to  near  the  branch  that  leads  up  to  Bal- 
timore.   From  thence  it  assumes  various  breadths,  from 


^ 


fesSt.. 


.1 


•JL88  m&btlamih" 

10  to  15  miles,  during  a  course  downwards  of  about 
70  miles,  to  near  the  Potomac  River.  From  thence  it 
stretches  out  to  25  or  30  miles,  during  a  passage  of  90 
miles  more,  and  finally  passes  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  by 
an  outlet  of  20  miles  broad.  ,<X^  whole  course,  firom 
north  to  south,  is  nearly  200  miles,  and  it  receives  in  its 
passage  the  whole  waters  of  this  state;  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  eastern  part  of  Virginia ;  a  great  part  of  those  of  Pennsyl. 
vania,  and  some  of  Delaware ;  exhibiting*  upon  the  whole, 
a  greater  confluence  of  waters  than  is  to  be  seen  i^  the 
'United  States,  or  almost  in  the  world.  The  principal 
rivers  in  Maryland  that  run  into  th^  bay,  besides  the  Sus- 
quehannah  apd  Potomac,  are  the  JPatapsco  sxi^  Fatuxentt 
on  the  west  sid&;  and,  on  the  east  ude,  £lk  River fSas- 
safras,  Chester^  Choptank,  Nanticokcj  and  PocomokCt  the 
Ifust  of  which  issues  out  of  Cyprus  Swamp.  There  are 
numerous  islands  in  the,  bay,  and  the  waters  abound  with 
'-various  kinds  pf  fish. ,  The  state  Is  generally  wejl  watered^ 
and  abounds, with  millTseats.  rr;  di  r-  ^'xr-irtt^  z^?:^;  r  .jvi^jr; 
Maryland  is  well  SMppUed  with  iron  ore,  and  some  coal 
has  been  foimd,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantity  to  make  it 
anolyect  of  impQTt^ce^  ,  ,,v^v  /tjv  i  / .  w^:  .u;u  i 
<fThe  soil  is  very  various,  audi  a  great  portion  of  it  is 
but  poor.  Towards  the  eastern  shore,  it  is  low. and  sandy, 
aboimding  with  swamps.  In  the  interior,  there  are  many 
fertile  spots;  but  the  greater  part  of  the  land  is  poor,  until 
you  pass  the  first  ridge  of  mountains,  when  there  is  a  fer- 
tile valley  oif  12  or  14  miles  broad.  From  thence  the  soil 
is  pretty  much  assimilated  to  the  mountainous  district  of 
'Pennsylvania..  :.  i^;tij.i^c ^■u-..^a'.....„ :,.;..;  . 

•,i,  The  climate  is  as  various  as  the  soil.    The  eastern  part 
is  pretty  similar  to  Delaware,  indicated  by  a  pale,  sickly 


*!i#^ 


/  / 


MABYLAl^m 


18> 


colour  in  the  inhf^bkants*  Itimpraves  as  the  land  gets 
hilly)  and  among  the  niountains  is  delightful,  the  sum- 
in^  being  cooled  by  fine  breezes^  while  the  winters  are 
tempered  by  a  southern  latitude,  which  renders  them  much 
more  mild  than  to  the  northward. 

The  country  was  first  settled  by  Lord  Baltimore,  a 
Roman  catholic,  who  evinad  the  liberality  of  his  religious 
principles,  by  providing  for  the  free  exercise  of  all  other 
religious  opinions  in  the  colony.  At  the  commencement 
of  the  revolutionary  war,  the  state  was  declared  to  belong 
to  the  citizens,  who  delegated  five  of  their  number  to  the 
first  congress.  The  state  constitution  was  framed  in  1776, 
which,  with  a  few  trifling  amendments,  still  continues. 
The  state  now  sends  two  senators  and  nine  representatives 
to  congress^ , ,  '   ,  fr»-yt^ 

The  state  is  divided  into  19  counties,  and  contained,  by 
the  census  of  1800,  241,885  white  pers(»is,  and  107,707 
alavesi  being,  in  the  whole,  about  25  persons  to  the 
square  mile  of  territory ;  but,  when  the  proportion  of  wa- 
ter is  subtracted,  it  makes  the  amount  to  each  square 
mile  nearly  35.  1      iif%*i,^,  > 

National  improvements  have  kept  pace  with  the  indus- 
try and  perseverance  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the  towns, 
cultivated'  farms,  roads,  and  bridges  are  all^  so  many  proofs 
that  the  citizens  of  Maryland  are  possessed,  in  a  high  de- 
gree, of  these  qualifications,  .i.^ju  /,i.t 

Of  the  cities,  Baltimore,  already  described,  is  the  chief. 
An  n  a  pdLi  s  is  the  seat  of  government,  and  is  situated  on  the 
Severn  River,  about  two  miles  from  its  entrance  into  Che- 
sapeak  Bay.  The  houses,  built  of  brick,  are  about  300 
in  number,  and  the  city  contains  about  2500  inhabitants^ 
The  State-House  in  one  of  the  most  superb  buildings  in  the 


l90  MAHTLAKIfc 

Uiiit^  Btat^.  There  isa  college,  a  tKeMre,  and  two  places 
of  public  wonhnp  ifi'tlie  city.  It  has  a  harboiir,  though 
no  great  commerce ;  but,  being  a  pleasant  place,  it  is  the 
residence  of  a  great  many  wealthy  people.  Fredetick- 
town  is  a  large  inland  town,  containing  a  court-house, 
jail,  academy,  market-house,  and  seven  places  of  public 
worship.  The  inhabitants  are  about  6000 ;  and  the  town 
has  considerable  manufactures  and  inland  trade.  Hagen- 
towrtj  situated  beyond  the  first  range  of  mountains,  con- 
tains 2100  inhabitants.  Besides  these,  there  are  a  great 
number  of  smaller  towns  and  villages,  containing  fit>in 
100  to  1000  inhabitants.  A  great  number  of  the  fintn- 
houses  are  built  of  wood,  and  they  are  not  so  substantial, 
nor  so  elegant,  in  general,  as  those  in  Peimsylvania. 

This  is  the  first  state  in  which  there  is  a  material  diffe- 
rence  of  agriculture  fh>m  the  northern  states ;  still,  how- 
ever, the  staple  crop  is  wheat ;  but  they  raise  a  conude- 
rable  quantity  of  tobacco,  and  some  cotton,  though  none 
of  the  latter  for  exportation.  AL  Jie  other  grains,  grasses, 
and  roots,  that  grow  in  the  northern  states,  flourish  here; 
and  the  sweet  potatoe,  9  root  belonging  to  a  warm  climate, 
comes  to  considerable  maiority.  ...... 

The  principal  manufiustures  of  the  state  have  been  no- 
ticed in  the'  account  of  Baltimore ;  and  so  has  the  foreign 
trade.  The  exports  from  the  state,  in  1805,  amounted  to 
10,859,480  dollars,  of  which  7,450,937  dollars  was  foreign 
produce;  and  the  imports  are  about  equal  in  value,  of 
which  a  great  part  consists  in  dry  goods  from  Britain*^ 

There  are  considerable  funds^  impropriated  to  the  sup- 
pcNt  of  education.  There  are  five  colleges,  and  a  number 
of  very  respectable  academies  in  the  state,  and  common 
schools  in  every  county. 


"|r»k"  T  <  ■*  ~ 


VABTLAIID, 


91 


oivttfgovaminent  is  vested  in  a  governor,  senate, 
andhouse  of  delegates,  all  chosen  annually.  The  qualifica- 
tion to  vote  for  delegates  is  a  fireehold  of  50  acres  of  land, 
or  property  to  the  value  of  j^.  30  currency.  The  princi- 
ples of  government  are  similar  to  those  of  Pennsylvania. 


i•^»^■ 


^1 


•www 

4 


/ 

.        ■  -.^ 

;  .-^ 

vKS^ 

■^.^^ 

:  >^*W1|| 

V    'i''tfil$^l^'  If '-^  ■'!•:.■  -^  - 

■    .'m 

i\       . 

.     ,1, 

:'        ••« 


^■:«C7i>  ■;,;.■■  :r    r<ffii'';;  :;;^/-U   jyis"i5'jn7yf  ^-^^  ^>">jr 'ii]1' 


-# 


192 


rnkvuiA  in  the 


.1  I     I' 


li  ;/     li-f*  i't  •  .  I  ( 


CHAFTER  XX*t. 


fr'4#*?i<»-''  .s?t  >« 


Patapsco  creek f — JFashington. 

On  the  third  of  October,  at  eight  o'clock,  I  set  out  in 
the  mail  stage  for  Washington.  We  travelled  eight  miles 
through  a  hilly,  well-wooded,  and  healthy  country,  and  ar. 
rived  at  Patapsco  creek,  25  miles  above  its  junction  with 
the  Chesapeak.  It  is  navigable  thus  far,  but  the  naviga- 
tion is  obstructed  by  the  falls  half  a  mile  above.  We 
travelled  eight  miles  more  through  a  similar  country,  when 
we  stopped  to  change  horses.  The  land  seemed  but  poor, 
and  litde  cultivated ;  the  principal  woods  were  oak,  hicko- 
ry, and  pine.  The  air  was  sweet  and  pure,  and,  having 
intelligent  company  in  the  stage,  the  travelling  ^vas  very 
agreeable.  At  19  miles  from  Patapsco  creek,  we  stopped 
again  to  change  horses,  on  an  elevated  situation,  where  we 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  adjacent  country;  and,  in  one  direc- 
tion, not  less  than  20  miles  distant. 

From  thence  wff  travelled  16  miles,  through  a  country 
rough  and  uneven,  and  by  a  road  no  less  so,  whe  n  'vc  came 
to  an  agreeable  plain;  and  two  miles  further  we  passed 
through  a  little  scattering  village  called  Bladensburg,  situ- 
ated on  the  east  branch  of  the  Potomac ;  from  thence  we 
travelled  nine  miles  more  to  Washington  city ;  the  whole 
distance  being  44  miles.  The  country  appeared  generally 
poor  and  sterile;  and  the  season  had  been  uncommonly 
dry,  in  consequence  of  which  all  the  grass  and  herbs  were 


Dt«1l»109r  Of  0OI«UMBIA. 


.its 


out  in 

t  miles 

uid  ar. 

n  with 

laviga- 

.    We 

r,  when 

at  poor, 
hicko- 
having 
very 
itopped 
icrewe 
direc- 

tountry 
|c  came 
passed 
J,  situ- 
Ince  we 
whole 
^nerally 
^monly 
>s  were 


parobc^  and  tbe  Jiq^o^  mmim  ^vciy  wheic  exhibiled  a 
acoix^ed^Uke  apprytniy.  I  nolked^  however»  ■evcnl 
tbnvinK  fi^  of tobicco.  ,  .i  a     ■ 

Being  told  that  we  were  entering  Washington  city,  I  con* 
tinucd  looking  ibr  thie  houses  for  some  little  time;  but  tee- 
ing noni ,  I  thought  I  had  misunderstood  the  gentleman 
who  mude  the  remark,  and  turning  round  for  an  explana- 
tion, he  told  me,  laughing,  that  we  were  almost  in  the  very 
middle  of  it,  and  asked  if  I  did  not  see  the  Capitol  a  little 
before  us.  I  did,  indeed,  see  a  stately  edifice,  but  no  othoc 
appearance  of  a  city.  Soon  after  this,  the  stage  stopped, 
at  Steele's  hotel,  nearly  opposite  the  Capitol^  where  I  took 
lodgings. 

On  walking  out  to  the  Capitol  Hill,  I  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  whole  scite  of  the  city,  which  is  very  large,  extending 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  each  direction  north  and  south  of  the 
Capitol ;  to  the  east  two  miles;  and  to  the  west  nearly  two 
miles  and  a  half.  The  buildings,  though  numerous,  being 
scattered  over  this  large  space,  give  it  more  the  appearance 
of  a  thickly-setded  country  than  a  city ;  and,  very  few  of 
them  extending  in  the  direction  we  came,  we  had  travelled 
a  good  way  into  the  city  before  I  saw  it. 

The  view  from  the  Capitol  is  really  superb.  The  whole 
country  round  is  handsomely  setded,  with  elegant  houses; 
and  the  view  is  terminated  to  the  west,  south-west,  and 
north-west,  with  highlands.  To  the  south,  is  the  river 
Potomac,  with  Alexandria  pleasantly  ^tuated  on  its  banks. 
The  navy-yard  and  shipping,  and  the  barracks,  are  seen  to 
the  south-east  and  eastward;  and  to  the  west  is  the  prew- 
dent's  house,  a  stately  edifice,  about  a  mile  distant;  be- 
yond which,  handsomely  situated  on  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
is  Georgetown,    The  Pennsylvania  avenue  runs  between 

VOL.   I.  2    B 


194 


.,*,UU-tRAVBt8  W  TIIB»'<' 


tlie  Capitol  and  the  president's  house),  and  being  ornament. 
ed  wkh  trees  and  walkd^  on'each  side^  forms  a  very  pkas. 
ing  prospect.  It  is  in  this  direction  that  the  dty  is  making 
great^  fjrogress. 

Th^  evening  was  clear  and  pleasmt,and  the  reflection  of 
tlie  setting  sun  add^  lustre  to  the  sceneiy.      i  u- 


,   .,r, 

*     ■  1 ; 


"piifi.Xid'!:  Hfj-XHuLi  :^^.i:. 


'.u'i^uiii  . 


,J  '; 


.■-;^4i.,»  Jij^^U.^^j: 


■5lllCj*' 


-V    J, 


^''fi>lk:^ilt,  »>. 


,,yv^|k{-k  i^^^i  fefj- ' 


£f  y^''M,yi^''t" 


Ifc^ 


^V(f/ 


mament- 
ay  pkas- 
isnudLing 

Section  of 


iji  / 


DISTRICT   OF  COLUMBIA.  195 

CHAPTER  XXXn. 

Washmgt(m,'-'Treasuryy—'Capitol,-^Bdrracksr--Mw 

yard, — Georgetown. 

Washington,  Octob«-  4.  Having  been  fumJshdl 
with  a  letter  of  introduction  to  a  gentleman  in  the  treasury-^ 
office,  I  called  tliis  mornings  when  I  was  politely  received, 
and  goi  every  information  calculated  to  facilitate  my  inqui- 
ries. My  friend  carried  me  to  the  dilferent  departments 
in  the  office,  which  are  all  spacious,  and  comitiodious; 
but  this  being  a  time  at  which  there  was  no  public  bil«<- 
ness,  tiiere  was  litde  to  be  seen.  From  thence  we  went 
to  the  post-office,  which  has  no  great  appearance  exteriorly, 
but  it  seems  to  be  very  well  arranged  in  the  interior  to  an- 
swer the  purpose  for  which  it  was  designed.  I  was  in^ 
formed  that  both  these  departments  were  under  excellent 
management.  <> «  ^ 

I  was  then  introduced  by  my  friend  to  the  gentleman 
who  has  the  charge  of  the  Capitol,  and  went  vith  him  to 
see  ^lat  edifice.  It  is  an  elegant  building  of  hewn  ston^ 
and  uorisbts?  of  two  wings  and  a  portico  in  the  middle. 
The  north  wing  was  quite  con^lete,  and  the  whole  legis-^ 
htive  business  was  transacted  in  it  for  the  time.  The  se^ 
nate-chatliber  occupies  the  ground  floor,  and  is  an  elegant 
apartment,  iii4th  handsome  fqmiiure;  it  is  adorned  with 
full  kngth  pordikits  of  the  late  unfortunate  king  aB^'quiaen 
of  France^ :  The  house  of  representatives  meet^httili  iipiit^ 


1^ 


^/  «f«TllATBL8  IN  TEH"     » 


ment  up  stairs,  which,  I  was  told,  was  ultimately  destined 
for  the  library  room.     It  was  fitted  up  with  commodious 
seats  for  the  members,  but  no  way  ornamented.    The  only 
things  in  it  which  merited  notice,  were  two  very  elegant 
views  of  the  Ms  ^f  ;>^agan|.  ,  From  thence  we  went  to 
the  south  wing,  where  a  great  many  workmen  were  em- 
ployed ;  and  I  was  told  they  were  making  great  exertions 
to  have  it  finished  in  time  foi;  the^next  congress.     The 
apartment  for  the  house  of  representatives  is  a  large  oval 
9pptn,j9cpupying  x\s»t\y  the  whole  bu^diog  Up  $|iii»si,  and 
wMl«  w)^n  (^ishi^d*  ^  very  supetb.      ,  ^-r   ■  r^  im  H-^^^t^  » w 
.1  F4|oi{|it];i^,^CapitQl  r^weiit  to  see  ;^  barrack*  >  They 
afp  ktg^  ^nd} .  ioonvenlent,  and  were :  ganisoned)  by  250 
num  h^f^  %  portion  of  i  the  United  Stat^'  mmyl  r  I  was 
V^^ormed  ithat  th^y  were  ibuud  in  every  thing,  ^besides 
their  p^  of]  six^  dc^kirs  per  months    TJnsv  however,  does 
iij9t  bear  a  pro|x>i:tioiiiito  the  wages  of  the  odiertrlasses  in 
^jnenca^  who,  on  an  average^  may  be  found  in  evbry 
tlufig,  and  have  twelve  dollars  per  month;.    The  coiise- 
quencefia,  that  the  few  military  that  are  wanted  will  pro- 
hsblyQQtbe^  generally  speaking,  equal  in  i-e^ctability 
to  the  other  citizens.     It  is  probable  they  wiU  be  com- 
posed ^  inadleHt  men,  who  are  liot.wiUii^  to. labour,  or 
of  vipiousmen,  who  h^ve  be<feome  obnoxious  rto  ^society. 
^1^. should,. if  possible,  be  guarded  against^i   Na  set  of 
19^  should  be  more  respectable  than  those  to  whom  are 
comimt^,  the  national  defence ;  and  measures  ihould  be 
devised  to. place  them  on  a  footing,  with  their  brethrmia 
regstnd  both*  to  industry  and  pecuniary  ,means;    tWould  it 
not  be  wise  in  a  nation  to  plan  works  lof  public  utility, 
and  eiUiploy!  a  portion  of  the  time  of  the  miliitaij^itn^xe- 
cuting  thetn?  This  would  not  only  improve  the^cfounltry, 


DISTttfOT  OF  COLVMIIA. 


m 


:stincd 
o^us 
[\e  only 
elegant 
vent  to 
aneem- 
lertions 
..  The 
•ge  oval 

ars,  and 

, .-, 

They 

by  250 
i/  I  was 
^besides 
^er,  does 
pbeisesin 
in  ev&f 
le  conse' 
will  pro- 
ttciability 
be  com- 
"ibour,  or 
isociety. 
Or  set  of 
lom  are 
lid  be 
m 
^dold  it 


biiit  ^ould  keep  tht  ineh%active'einploym^^^       aSSatd 
them  wages  equal  to  the  other  classes  in  society. 

Froin  the  Barracks  I  went  to  the  Navy-Yaitl,  where  I 
saw  eight  or  ten  frigates,  ^  most  of  them  undiergoifig 
repair,  i  went  on  board  one^  which,  I  wad  informed,  was 
the  Chempeak.  She  tarries  44  guns,  and  appears  very 
large  for ^^ai  metal. 

Having  seen  the  most  material  places  in  Washington,  I 
procured  a  horse,  and  took  a  ride  to  Georgetown,  three 
miles  distiait  from  the  Capitol.  The  view  is  very  elegant 
the  whole  way,  and,  in  the  vicinity  of  Gleorgetown,  there 
is  a  ix>maiitic  cliasm,  in  which  there  is  a  pretty  large 
stream  of  water,  called  Rock  Creeks  Having  passed  this 
by  a  wooden  bridge,  I  entered  the  town,  whidi  I  found 
itgularly  laid  out,  and  compactly  built.  It  stands  on  the 
side  of  a  Mil,  havitig  a  considerable  descent  to  the  riVer, 
of  which  it  has  a  fine  view.  It  contains  about  300  houses, . 
and  4500  mhabitants.  Mo^  of  the  houses  are  built  of 
bnck,  and  some  of  them  are  elegant  The  public  builds 
ings  are  five  places  for  public  worship,  an  academy,  and 
a  bank.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  which,  Ih 
consequence  of  the  rapid  settlement  of  the  back  country, 
is  yearly  ihcreaaiig^  •       :— «;:  ;r<  v  ^.,. /?.  .r    i^  w-r-  <^>.^'-.:;^ 

The  RiVer  Potomac,  which  is  nearly  a  mile  broad  op^ 
ports'  Washington,  contracts  here  to  less  than  a  fourth  of 
Dnt  diitaiice ;  and  it  is  proposed  to  build  a  bridge  across 
it,  whicli,  if  executed,  will  add  much  to  the  convenience 
ofthis  part  of  the  country.  ^ 

This^  river  merits  particukr  notice,  and  I  cannot  any 
where  iiitit>duce  it  ryith  more  propriety  than  here. 

The  Potomac  rises  from  ^^  spring  on'^the  north-west  side 
of  the  s  Allegany  ihOuntains,  and  runis  a  north-ea^  tour^  of 


^>  ¥HAVBLS>  IN"  TBe    r.t 


about  60  miles,  to  Cumberland^  where  it  makes<  a  bend, 
and,  by  a  serpentine  course,  nearly  soutb-eaat,  runs  about  18 
milfis;  to  where  it  receives  the  south-west- branch.  It  then 
turns  to  the  nortli-east,  and  runs  a  very  serpentin&voourse 
of  about  45  miles,!  in  which ;  tt<  receives  a  considerable 
number  of  tributary  streams,  to  Hancock's  Town*  Here 
it  m^es  another  bend  to  the  south-east^  and  9. miles  from 
thence  it  receives  the  waters  of  Licking;  Creek,  and  passes 
the  North  Mountain  kito  a  fine  limestone  valley,  which  it 
waters  by  a  ver}'  windir^  course,  and  principally  a  south* 
east  direction,  for  about  45  mUes.  In  this  valley  it  re- 
ceives a  considerable  numbered  small  streams,  particularly 
the  Conecooheague  Credc,  at  WiUiamsport,  in  thie>  mi<i^c 
of  tlie  valley ;  and  at  the  es^tremky  it  receives  Uie  waters 
of  tlie  Shenandioah  from  Virginia;  and,  by  a.  singularly 
grand  passage,  issues  through  the  Blue  Mountain.  It 
thence  passes  on,  nearly  in  the  same  direction,  about  SO 
miles,  where,  by  two.  different  falls,  in  the  course  of  8  or 
10  milesj  it  descends  above  140  feet  to  the  level  of  tide- 
water, which  it  meets  at  Georgetown^  .The,nver  now 
increases  to  about  a  mile  broad,  and,  passing  .^Alexandria, 
and  Mount  Vernon,  it  runs  a  course,  a  little  to  the  west 
of  south,  to  35  miles  below  Alexandria,  where  k  makes  a 
great  bend  of  nearly  15  miles  to  tlie  north-east*  f  It  now 
gradually  increases  in  breadth^  and,- miming  50  miles  be- 
jk>w  this  bend,  flows  into  the  Chesapeak  Bay»  by  a  passage 
about  10  miles  broad.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important 
of  the  Atlantic  rivers,  and,  from  its  inlersectingithexoun* 
try  in  a!<^ntral  situatioui  has  excited  great,  attention  in 
the  Unked  States;  more  i^specJallyunce^Washif^on  was 
fixed  on  as  the  seat  of  the  general  government,  it  is  na- 
vigable for  ships. of  ^y  burden  to  iVl^x«M)dria,^,4i^^ce 


it 


DlSTftlCT.  or  COLINICBIA. 


199 


vabend, 

about  18 

It  then 

^.course 


B.    Here 
iikt  from 
nd  passes 
wbich  it 
f  a  south, 
lley  it  re- 
artipularly 
l^vijaiddle 
he  waters 
^g^ttlarly 
ititain.    It 
about  SO 
tseof  8or 
rel  of  tide- 
liver  now 
lexandria, 
the  west 
it  luakes  a 
1  It  now 
miles  be* 
afussage 
iffipOTtant 
ithe  coun* 

Len^on  in 
fon  was 

Jt  isna- 

a4isUnce 


of  about  160  imlesy  and  about  lao  from  the  Capeaof  Vir- 
giniat^;  i  and  from  thence  for  vessels  of  considerable  burden 
to  Geovgetown, at  the headof  tide- water.  There  b  a  lock 
navig^on,  constructed  at  great  labour  and  expence,  round 
tbe'fitst  &lls.  Con»derable  improvements  have  been 
made  furtlier  up  the  river.)  and  it  is  presumed,  that,  by 
following  up  these,  improvements,  the  river  can  be  made 
fit  for:  boat  navigation  to-  Cumberland,  180  miles  above 
dde- water,  the  elevation  being  700  ^t  above  tlie  level  oS^ 
the  sea. 

Connected  with  this^^  important  subject,  I  may  here  no* 
tice,  that  a  road  has  been  laid  out^  by  ^  order  oif  congress^ 
fipom  Cumberland^  across  the  mountains^  to  BrownsvUk  on 
the  Monongahela^ia  distance  of  72rmi|es,  on' whicb  the 
angle  oST  ascent  is  no  where  greater  than  5  degrees.  From 
Brownsville  there  is  an  easy  navigation  to  Pittsburg  on 
the  Ohio.  ^^^ 

I  returned  from  Georgetown  to  dine  with,  my  friend; 
and  after  dinner  was  introduced  to  a  number  of  gentiemen 
of  Washington,  who  vied  with  one  another  in  showing  me 
attention,  and  in  giving  me  inibrmation.  w. 

Among  others,  I  saw  Mr.  Smith,  the  editor  of  the  Na* 
tional  Intellig^cer,  a  shrewdy  sensible  man;  and,  having  a 
desire  to  be  correctly  informed  of  the  measures  of  the  ge- 
neial  government  during  my  stay  m  America,  I  ordered  a 
copy  of  that  p^per  to  be  sent  to  Savannah.  I  had  fre- 
quently seen  and  admired  it  for  its  liberality  of  sentiment, 
and  freedom  from  personal  abuse ;  and,  from  the  access 
which  the  editor  must  necessarily  haVe  to  the  best  sources 
of  information,  I  was  satisfied  that  the  iiitelli^;*{ice  contain- 
ed in  it  might  be  gencKiUy  relied  on.     --^.vs-m  i^w^r^'  f:^^^ 


■^' 


14.,  In  the  eveningi  I  was  kifonned  by  my  imd$,  tfattt  the 
pi«8id^t  had  unexpectedly  arrived  in  the  .G%,^aQd,I  ivas 
advised  to  call  upon  him  before  I  )sh  it.  ,1  VKif^hed  veiy 
much  to  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  ithepre^idciiti  hut 
I  was  infoiroed^  .l!^>^Yo|]c«,#Qd  E|iilade^;)laa,  jthat  he 
would  not  be,  at  Washington  until,  late  in  Nqtrember,  in 
consequenceof  wluch,  I  w^  not  funushedwithiailetter  of 
introduction.  But  tib^y  informed  me,  that  it  was.  altogje- 
theriinneG^ssu^^  Mr.  Jeffeicpqa  jva».a  maii^p£<:nio^,c^- 
mony, juid,  I  coul^  introduce ^y self  as. a. ^sti^^ngerr  and 
Mjgould  .bev^attend^  to  ^^  su^^  jnd  ^i^uld  ,tf^mmi  of 

ahallt  be.4Bonunufucated  in  .the.nfixt»chapter^ 


■  >*■       ''-VNi 


'■  t' 


rti . 


*■ 


VOL.    I, 


li 


DI8TBICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


Ottdthe 

bed  very 
koDt;  but 
,  wjbat  he 
ioober,  in 
aktterof 
AS.  aUoge- 

%,-mffti  of 


ffc'^-^-l- 


dMF*^  ■■-?^T'- 


«*     a   .t.    «^  .  .-L  .1 


2Qti 


^^ 


■;•; 


CHAPTER  XXXra. 


Interview  with  Mr,  Jefferson, 

Washington,  October  5.  in  pursuance  of  the  re- 
commendation  of  my  friends,  I  set  out,  this  morning,  at 
8  o'clock,  for  the  purpose  of  waiting  on  Mr.  Jefierson.  On 
my  arrival  at  the  president's  house,  I  delivered  my  ad- 
dress to  a  servant,  who  in  a  few  minutes  returned  with  an 
answer,  diat  Mr^  Je£krson  would  be  with  me  presently, 
and  showed  me  into  an  elegant  apartment.  Mr.  Jefferson 
ioon  entered  by  an  iiiner  door,  and  requesting  me  to  be 
seated,  sat  down  himself;  and  immediately,  and  very 
fmAAff  entered  into  conversation,  by  asking  where  I  had 
landed,  and  how  long  I  had  been  in  the  country.  Having 
infdrmed  him,  he  remarked  that  I  would  probably  be  tra- 
velling to  the  north^rard ;  I  replied  that  I  had  been  to  the 
noith,  and  was  now  travelling  to  die  southward.  '*  And 
how  do  you  like  New  York?"  "Very  muchj"  ssud  I; 
^*  it  is  one  of  the  finest  sea-ports  I  have  seen,  and,  I  pre- 
sume, will  always  continue  to  be  the  first  commercial 
city  in  the  United  States."  He  observed  that  he  found 
that  idea  generally  entertaine^d  by  strangers;  that  New 
York  was  a  very  fine  situation,  and  would  unquestionably 
continue  always  to  be  a  great  commercial  city ;  but  it  ap- 
peared to  him  that  Norfolk  would  probably,  in  process  of 
thne,  be  the  greatest  sea-port  in  the  United  States,  New 
Orleans  perhaps  excepted.  ^   He  pcnnted  out  the  circum- 


VOL.    I. 


2  c 


i02 


4ii»RAiriL8  iir  *hm 


stance  of  the  vast  confluence  of  waters^  that  constituted 
the  outlet  of  the  Chesapeak  bay,  on  which  Norfolk/is  situ- 
ated^ and  remarked  that  these  rivers  were  as  yet  but  par- 
tiidly  settled ;  but  they  were  rapidly  settling  up,  and,  when 
the  population  wiafull|  the  quantity'^  surplus  produce 
would  be  immense,  and  Norfolk  would  probably  become 
the  greatest  dep6t  in  the  United  States,  except  New  Or- 
leans. 

'm'Xht  conversation  next  turned  upon  ^e  clitniite  atid  ^. 
^cm ;  on  which  the  presideitt  remarked,  that  the  country  had 
11116  sumii^  been  remarkably  healthy;  that  no  case  of 
epidemical  siokness  had  come  to  his  knowledge^  some  few 
pf  kiUous  fever  and  feuer  and  9gtw  ekeeptedj:  at  the  foot  df 
"die  mountains  oil  Jameis*  river^  not  &r  from  ^eve  he  lived ; 
And  which  country  was  never  knowa  tO  experience  igsf 
case9  of  the  kind  beibre.  As  thk  9ppeai!ed.  singulav^^^I 
Inquired  whether  there  w»s  any  way  Of  Accounling  for  it 
gjp  Ifeplifild,  that  the  W£iy  he  accounted  for  it  y^lSM»: 
<*  In  oniinary  sea6on$,  there  is  a  sui&biency  of  WiteK  ti>iiCe«p 
t^  riy^ns  in  a  ^te  of  circulation^  and  no  moi^ ;  but  thi$ 
ft^ison  therQ  tes  been  ai(»ig  9i|d  vety  seveiie  4roughtt 
^^ch,  in  ii[^^  places  ha&,4ried  them  up.  The  water 
^  stagnate  in  poqis,  and  s^ndis  out>a  putrid  effluvia  to 
soBAe^difit^ce}  which,  ;bei|ig  lighter  than  tiie  atmosphere^ 
9^cen4s  even  s^i^me  liitde  way  up  the  mountaina,  ^  reaches 
tfee  abo4p«uef  thiE^  who  thought  them^dve^  h^V^tofore 
fipee  from  attack."  ..;..: 

^iJE  was  strud^  w^th  the  force  of  this  retnar^y  and  applie(} 
it  to  a  circumstance  jdiajt  ha^  cpme  un4^r  my  obs^vatipn 
at  Wasy^gtpn*  *  The  Papitol  HiM  ia,  ejeyat^  a|H)ye  the 
river  upwi^rda  pf  70  feet.  Beitween  thi&^aud  the  river  theie 
is^^  l9>v  in?a49W,  afeput  a jnil^Ja-q^di  a!?offii4ing ,5iwth 


i  <aQ 


# 


OI8TBICT  OF  eOMJIIBIA. 


1209 


natituted 
,k  is  situ- 
biit  par- 
nd,  when 
produce 
y  become 
New  Or. 

eand$eA. 
mntiy  had 
lo  case  of 
I  some  few 
the  foot  df 
eiieHvedi 
rience  t»]t 
singular^'I 
tOngforit 

j;  but  this 

effiuYiato 

tsnosphere^ 
reaches 
h«PQtofore 

Ind  appliei) 
l>l?s«^vatipn 
laboye  th^ 
jriy^rtheire 
\g  with 


fWimps  ifid  small  shrabbery .  In  the  autumn  these  swamps 
send  out  an  effluvia^  which  often  afiects  the  health  of  those 
who  live  on  the  hilL  I  noticed  this  circumstance,  and  the 
president  ilwilarked,  that  it  was  a  case  exactly  in  point.  He 
said  he  had  frequently  observed  from  his  windows,  in  the 
mfivning,  the  vapour  to  rise,  and  it  seemed  to  have  suffi- 
dent' buoyancy  to  carry  it  to  the  t(^  of  the  hiU,  and  no 
further;  there  it  setded,  and  the  inhabitants,  coming  out 
df:1dlei^  warm  vo(ims,i  breathed  this  cold  contaminated  va- . 
f6uFii  w)neh'faraBg|kt>on  agues  and  other  complaints.  He 
and Jkt  hadtfiequently  p(»nted  out  this  t(^  the  people,  an4 
argedithemtD  drain  tlie  swamp,  but  it  wns  still  neglectod* 
dthinighithey  lii4)>be^des  sufiering  in  their  healthy  pndba^ 
b^  expended  'mo^  in  doctor's  bills  than  it  would  tiave 
le^.:  v^^fittt^  indeed,"  he  continued,  **  mankind  are  ea^ 
4i(Jcdingi;^idi<lwin>i^opdng  iiesdutions  to  p^vent  disease^ 
811^  it  |»'very  diffibult  to  convince  theiii  v^here  they  oifig^^ 
nfiti^'^pQhieukirl^rhwiien'  th^^  applied'  is  the  r6> 

^  bC  phiadlophioal  deducdim.'^ 

The  transition  from  this  subject  to  that  of  the  ydk>W 
ftivsr?ir»l«iiind,^  and  linftrodtioed  k  by  noticing  Paiiie's 
Mkym^  subject '  The  piesident  observed,  that  it  was 
die  of  i the;  moat  senaiUe  perfomuftices  on  that  dkease, 
that  had  edme  under  liis  observation.  The  remarks  wene 
qidte  {rf^loe^hieal^  and,  not  being  calculated  to  excite  any 
paetyifedkigf  'thejr  might  have  a  very  useful  tendency^, 

*  I  had  seen  this  essay  of  Mr.  Psdne  in  the  newspapers,  and  I 
made'menuon  of  it  in  the  account  of  my  conversation  with  him^ 
pEgc1^5V 'It  fia^ljiri'die'tifocul^d  a  cbpy  of  the  essay ;  and  as  it  itf  the 
liifOM  ii<f<^gilyle  Hccoum  that  I  have  fet  se^n  of  the  yellow  feirer^ 
Uidbentkelytloarfof  «]^rty<^prejodicea»  1- have  inserted  ijt  at  full 
length  in A^|Ap{lf$n^!iixr  No.  I.     .    ,  ^^^ 


\JM' 


m, 


^TfHiPfiats  "«»*«■ 


'-r. 


^'  Me  then  made  a  few  remarks  on  the  nature  of  the  yellow 
fever  itself.  He  observed,  that  it  evidently  aroie  from 
breathing  impure  air,  and  impure  air  may  be  either  gene- 
mted  m  the  country  or  imported.  A  case  had  come  un. 
der  his  observation  where  it  was  imported.  A  vessel  ar- 
rived  at  Norfolk,  and  the  air  in  her  hold  was  so  pestilen. 
tial,'  that  eveiy  person  who  went  into  it  was  affected)  and 
some  of  them  died;  but,  on  the  discovery  being  niade, 
the  vessel  was  purified,  and  the  fever  did  not  spread.  Thb 
'#&s  a  local  circumstance,  he  observed;  and  there  may  be 
>Diiany  othet^»  which  are  pernicious  ds  fir  as  Uneff  go^  ttid 
i^tfe  should  be  taken  to  prevent  them.  But  a  shipi:GaD 
Dever  inkport  a  sufficient  quantity  of  >impufe  air  to  pollule 
a  ivhole  dty,  if  that  city  be  otherwise 'lKaithy,^«nd,thfiffe^ 
•fere,  the  origin  of  the  yellow  fever^  onion  eadended seok^ 
must  be  bought  for  in  an  impure  akv  general^  from  filth 
eoDeeted  in  and  about  gn*at  cities;  and  it  waavery  e3lip^ 
dient  that  this  view  of  the  subject  should  be  cniocced^  in 
order  to  induce  mankind  to  attend  to  ime  of  the^most  iin> 
^po^lant  cohcems  in  life-Msleanliness..  Hu  r  <  ^  • 
'^  I  tbok  notice  of  the  bad  state  of  the  road  between  Bal- 
timore and  Waahihgton,  and  expressed  my^  surprise  that 
it  should  remain  in  this  state,  so  near  the  capifal  of  the 
United'  States.  The  president  observedv  that  the  idhovil 
0f  the  seat  of  government  was  a  recent  measure^  and  ll^ 
co^try  was  so  extensive^  that  it  would  neekssidrSy  be  a 
considerable  time  before  good  roods  could  be  made  in  all 
directions,  but  as  it  was  a  most  important  aubject,  it 
would  be  attended  to  as  fastt  as  circumstances  woidd  per- 
mit; and  the  road  to  Baltimore,  being  the  great  thorough* 
•fare"t6'^  northern  states,  would  probably  be  one  of  the 
first  that  would  undergo  a  thorough  repair^    He  then  in- 


likely  t 
possible 
was  ur| 
but  thai 
the  opei 
and  beii 
whig  pi 


DiaraioT  op  Columbia.^ 


205 


€ydkm 
ise  from 
er  gene- 
onte  un. 
ireasdar. 
pestUen- 
;ted)  and 
ig  iiiade, 
ad.  TKi 

l^go^iand 

topoUute 

fitmifiltli 

liioeced^in 
I  BiQBt  im* 


r 


Bal. 

that 

of  the 

idhovil 

be  a 

in  all 

ibject,  it 

rodd  per- 

tligrough- 

jone  of  the 

le  then  in- 


foHniKl  me,  that  both  this  subject  and  that  of  internal  na- 
vigatioii  by  canals,  were  under  consideration  at  the  present 
time,  upon  a  very  extended  scale,  and  probably  a  report 
would  soon  be^  published  relative  to  them ;  and  he  had 
litde  doubt,  but  that  in  less  than  20  years,  turnpike  roads 
would  be  general  throughout  the  country ;  and  a  chain  of 
canals  Ivduld  probably  be  cut,  which  would  complete  an 
inland" navigation  from  Massachusetts  to  Georgia;  and 
anoAi^?  to  eonnebt  die  eastern  with  the  western  waters,^^ 
«  '  I:^<remarked  that  these  would  be  most  important  lino' 
prot^ements,  and  would  greatly  &cilitate  intefnal  inter-* 
caamti  and  as  to  manufactures,  I  pi^esimied  Hwovld  long 
continue  to  be  the  policy  of  the  oouxitry  to  import  them, 
lie  rephed,  that  diis^  like  other  braiiciieii,  would  of  course 
fiitA  itB^leyd,  and  would  depend  ujMOit  the  gei^us  of  the 
^pdofkt^  but  it"  was  astonishing,  ^^fxrogress  that  had  been 
made  in  raanui&ctures  of  late  years*  It  would  hardfyfale 
believed,  he  siud,  by  strangers,  but  he  had  it  on  the  best 
authority,  that  the  manufactures  of  Philadelphia  were 
greater  in  value  annually^  than  were  those  of  Birnung^iam 
20  years  ago;  and  he  had  no  doubt  but  that  manufiictures, 
of  articles  of  the  >£rst  necessity,  would  increaac^^  until  ttiiey 
became  quite  general  through  the  countiy.  ^r^  » 
V  As  ?the  non^importation  act  was  then  in  dependence,  I 
was  naton^y  anxious  to  ascertain,  whether  matters  were 
likely  to  be  adjusted  with  Britain,  and,  as  modesdy  as 
possible,  endeavoured  to  turn  the  conversion  that  way.  I 
was  urged  to  this  by  two  considerations.  I  was  not  sure 
but  that  part  of  our  M  importation  would  come  under 
the  operation  of  the  non-imporation  act,  if  it  took  place ; 
and  being  fully  satisfied  of  the  friendly  disposition  of  the 
whig  party  in  Britsdn  towards  America,  I  would  gladly 


" 


.&-  ■ 


too  D|9W^V  OV  CQiAmmUd  ^ 

Ime  availed  myieif  of  an  opportunity  of  cxpreaaing  that 
opinion  to  t^e  president  But  on  thia  subject  Mr.  jeiTer- 
son  was,  of  course,  reserved ;  though,  from  the  feW(  obser- 
vations he  made,  I  concluded  that  matters  would  ultimately 
be  amicably  adjuat^ ,  I  was  highly  gratified  by  the  ex- 
pression of  his  opinion,  on  the  character  of  my  great 
favourite  statesman  Mr.  Fox.  Accounts  had  that  mom- 
ing  reached  Washington,  that  Mr.  Fox  was  in  the  last 
stage  of  his  illness^rnl  noticed  the  ciroumatance*  *'  Poor 
man,"  said-Mr.  Jefierson,  "I  fear  by  tUa  time  he.iano 
more,  and^bia  loaa.  wiU^be  severely  £bU  by  his  countiy-^ 
he  19  a  m^  oCthf  most  liberal  and  ^enlightened  poli#y«« 
a  ^i^  tfii^  coun|iy»  and  to  the  humari  race." 
.  A  gentleman  then  <calle4  upon  bimi'l  ^believe  geeeivl 
£«ton,.and  I  took  fnyrleaye>  highly  pleaand  with  thi9  afia^ 
bitityij  intelligt»i«e»  and  good  aensey  oftba  FfAsid^ntof 


iniiitiitiiii'iimii'i  iiiiiiiiiidyiiKiiiifi  iw.  j 


>  »•/ 


6^. 


I 


W^^-  ii '  ^i^MK?  -^iCi^i*  t  •^. , V . 


••'^lijai/iiv:..; 


J^  ■ 


h'. 


lj  > . 


;■■* 


AttTftler  or  coLVHiiiA. 


309 


thit 
dTer- 
»bser- 
lately 
t  ex- 
great 
morn* 
e  last 
•Poor 
uiftno 

Iwy— 
^  of 


^1^^    :. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


'Utmii  1,1111  ,»3 


/J' 


*i\!' 


♦,\4' 


District  of  Columbia, 

HTHIS  district  is  10  miles  square,  and  was  ceded  to  the 
Unit^  States  by  the  states  of  Vh-ginia  and  Maryland ; 
and  in  the  year  1800  became  the  seat  of  the  gjeneral  go- 
vernment '  It  is  in  north  latitude  38*  54^,  and  the  Ameri- 
can geographers  hare  adopted  it  as  the  first  meridian  of 
longitude,  which  I  have  followed  in  itiy  descriptions  of 
the  states,  so  as  the  reader  may  know  at  a  glance  how  far ; 
they  are  remored  from  the  t^itol.  The  face  of  the 
country  around  it  has  been  noticed.  The  soil  appears 
poor  and  sandy.  The  climate  is  the  same  as  the  middle 
district  of  Maiyland,  and,  judgmg  from  the  countenances 
of  the  people,  I  should  infer  it  is  not  very  healthy.  It  is 
high  and  diy ;  but  the  whole  flat  countiy  of  Virginia  and 
North  Carolina  lies  to  the  south  of  it ;  and,  when  a  south 
wind  ^  blows,  it  must  waft  a  giteat  deal  of  marsh  efRuvia 
aldog  with  it,  of  which  the  people  in  this  district  will 
receive  a  full  share. 

The  district  lies  on  both  udes  of  the  Potomac  river, 
and  is'  divided  into  two  counties,  one  on  tJth  sf de.  The 
population,  when  I  was  there,  was  supposed  to  be  about 
17,000,  including  those  of  Georgetown  and  Alexandria ; 
and  it  was  rapidly  encreasung. 

The  general  improv^nents  in  diis  district  have  been  .• 
already  noticed.    Besides  the  settlements  scattered  over 


W9 


914TRI0T  OF  COLUNBU. 


the  ^Strict,  it  contains  two  principal  towns  and  the  capi. 
tal»  Of  these,  Georgetown  has  been  already  mentioned; 
and  as  I  shall  have  occasion  to  notice  Alexandria  in  a  sub- 
sequent article,  it  only  remains  here  to  give  a  general  ac. 
'  count  of  the  federal  city. 


*-^  ^   WASHINGTON 


"i  Is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  district  of  Columbia,  and 
is  bounded  on  the  south-east  by  the  eastern  branch  of  the 
'Potomac  river^  tO'  the  south-west  by  the  western  branch,  to 
the  north-west  by  Bock  creek,  and  to  the  north-east  by  the 
Qpm  country.  Its  extreme  length  from  north-west  to 
«outh*eest  is  a  little  more  than  four  miles  and  a  half,  and 
its  medium  breadth  Jrom  north-east  to  south-west  about 

;^two  miles  and  a  half,  being  nearly  the  dimcnsbnsof  the 
city  of  London,  including  Westminster  and  Southwark* 

An  elegant  plan  of  this  city  has  been  published,  on  wMch 
I  counted  37  squares^  17  grand  avenues,  named  after  the 
diierent  states,  and  103  streets  crossing  one  another  at 
right  angles,  and  running  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of 
the  city.  On  this  plan  I  find  the  following  observations. 
**  The  grand  avenues,  and  sUch  streets  as  lead  immedi- 
ately  to  public  pkices,  are  from  130  to  160  feet  wide,  and 
may  be  conveniently  divided  into  foot- ways,  walks  of  trees, 
.  and  a  carriage-way.  The  otlier  streets  are  from  90  to  110 
feet  wide. 

"  In  order  to  execute  this  plan,  Mr.  EUicott  drew  a  true 
meridional  line   by  celestial   observation,   which  passes 

f  through  the  area  intended  for  the  capitol;  this  line  he 
crossed  by  another,  due  east  and  west,  which  passes 


1>ISiV|UOT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


209^: 


the  capi- 
ntioiied; 
in  a  sub- 
»ieral  ac- 


mbia,  and 
ich  of  the 
branch,  to 
ast  by  the 
th-\V!est  to 
I  half,  and 
fvest  about 
ions  of  the 
ithwarki 
,onwluch 
after  the 
another  at 
breadth  of 
Ltidns. 
immedi- 
wide,  and 
8  of  trees, 
90  to  110 

>watrue 

[ch  passes 

line  he 

sh  passes 


through  the  same  area.  These  lines  were  acciuatdy 
measured,  amd  made  the  basis  on  which  the  whole  plan 
was  executed.  He  ran  all  the  lines  by  a  transit  instru« 
ment,  and  determined  the  acute  angles  by  actual  measure- 
ment, and  left  nothing  to  the  uncertainty  of  the  compass.  ^' 

*^  The  positions  for  the  different  edifices,  and  for  t!ie  se- 
veral, squates  or  •^:i<.?.z  of  different  shapes,  as  they  are  laid 
down,  were  first  determined  on  the  most  advantageous 
ground,  commanding  tlie  most  extensive  prospects,  and 
t^  bejtte^^^sceptible  of  sudh  improvements  as  either  use 
or  omanoent  may  hereafter  call  for* 

"  Lji^es  or  avenues  of  direct  communication  have  been 
devised  tp  conp^ect  the  sesparate  and  most,  distant  objects.' 
Yyitl\  .ti^e  prmcipal,  and  to  preserve  thra^gh  the  whole  ^ 
i^iproQity  of  sight,  at  the  same  time.  Attention  has  been 
paid  to  the  passing  of  these  leading  avenues  over  the  most 
favourable  ground  %  prospect  and  convenience* 

^^Nqrth  and  south  lines,  intersected  by  others  running, 
due  east  and  west,  make  the  distribution  of  the  city  into 
streets,  square^,  &c.;  and  those  lines  have  been  so  com* 
bined  ass  to  meet  at  certain  given  points  witli  those  diver-* 
gent  ayenues,,  so  as  to  form  on  the  spaces  *  fu^t  determin- 
ed'the  different  squares  or  areas." 

There  are  three  creeks  delineated  on  the  plan,  above  the 
city,  on  which  r  find  the  following  observations. 

"The  perpendicular  height  of  Tiber  creek  above  the 
level  of  the  tide  in  said  creek,  is  236  feet  7  inches.  The 
\vater  of  this  creek  may  be  conveyed  on  the  liigh  ground 
where  the  Capitol  i^tands,  and  after  watering  that  part  of 
city,  may  be  (destined  to  ot^er  useful  purposes.  The  per- 
pendicular height  of  the  ground  where  the  Capitol  i&  tc) 
stand  is  above  the  dde  of  Tiber  creek  78  feet. 


VOL.  I. 


2    J5 


2i& 


fRAvisLS  m  ram 


"  The  perpendicular^  height  of  the  n  est  branch  above 
tlfe  tid^  in  Tiber  creek,  is  115  feet  7  inches. 

*^*  The  water  of  Reedy  creek,  and  that  of  the  Tiber,  may 
be  conveyed  to  the  president**  house." 

A  most  etegant  plan  indf^,  and  a  very  animated  de- 
scfiption.  tt  only  wants  40,000  elegant  buildings,  and  a 
cori^sponding  population,  to  constitute  tlie  American  capi. 
td  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  iti  the  ivotldl  However, 
it  iff  td  be  recollected  that  every  thing  must  have  a  begin- 
ning, and  the  time  was  when  London  was  m0. 
'  The  city  now  probably  contains  about  700  houses,  and 
50D0  inhabitants.  The  buildings  are  aH  pf  brick,  three 
-dtbi'i^s  high,  and  agreeable  to  a  given  plan^  'J^ere  are 
iaatt^  scatterihg  huts  and  wooden  buildings  throughout 
<^  dfStHct,  but  tiiey  are  obly  temporary.  Thc>.greater 
'^art  T>f  the  public  buildings  have  b^n  already  noticed. 
There  are,  besides,  two  or  three  churches^  three  market- 
£K)t»esj  and  a  jail.  The  inaikets  are  tc^rably  well  sup- 
j)Hed  with  provisions,  but  ever})  article  is  dear;  the  prices 
may  be  reckoned  one-third  higher  than  at  Philadelphia;  a 
ciircumaMce  that  wiQ  probably  operate  against  t^^pro- 
gress  of  population.  >   .    ^^ 

The  principal  manu&olHtes  are  tito^  calculated  for  do* 
mestib  con^mption,  boots,  shoes,  hats,  &c.  There  is  a 
considerable  retail  trade,  but  very  little  of  any  other;  the 
shipping  trade  it  carried  on  at  Alexandria,  and  the  inland 
ti^e  at  Georgetown, 

The  inhabitants  are  a  collection  from  all  quarters  of  the 
titiion,  and  there  are  many  foreigners  among  them.  They 
Vikt  reputed  to  be  orderly  and  correct  in  their  m<a^s,  and 
have  bent  their  attenti6n  very  much  to  the  subjects  of  edu- 
cation and  internal  improvement. 


DISTBICT   OF  OOLUltBIA. 


211 


above 


r,inay 


ses,  and 
k,  three 
here  are 
x>ughcmt 
*^  greater 

noticed, 
^^tiarfeat- 
svrell  sup- 
he  prices 
elphia;  a 

the  pro- 

;d  for  do- 
here  is  a 
■ther;  the 
he  inland 


The  district  of  Columbiat  west  of  the  Potomac,  is  sub- 
ject to  the  laws  of  Virginia,  and  east  of  the  river,  to  those 
of  Maryland;  but  the  whole  is  under  the  special  direction 
of  the  government  of  the  United  States,  and  the  internal 
police  is  managed  by  a  corporation,  of  which  the  president 
of  the  United  States  appoints  the  mayor.  The  other  mem- 
bers are  elected  by  the  people. 

There  is  a  circuit  court  of  the  United  States  within  the 
district,  consisting  of  a  chief  judge  and  two  assistants,  and 
^y  hold  four  sessions  annually. 

A  lew  general  remarks  shall  dose  this  chapter,  and  my 
account  of  the  capital  of  the  United  States. 

Having,  in  the  course  of  my  travels,  heard  a  great  many 
conflicting  opmions  about  British  influence  and  French 
influence,^  and  federalism  and  democracy,  and  die  suppos- 
ed enmity  of  the  American  government  to  Britain  and 
British  trade;  and  of  a  partiality  far  the  French  and  Bona- 
parte; I  determined  to  take  no  share  in  the  argument,  but 
to  hear  all  the  eyidence  on  both  sides,  as  Jtj;^)(|  in  my 
w^,  and  to  judge  for  myself. 

The  result  of  this  judgment  I  shall  WJW  communicate. 

I  was  satisfied,  from  all  that  1  had  seen  ^d  heard,  that 
there  is  bonajide  British  influence  in  ^  country,  of  a  very 
powerful  nature,  great  in  extent,  and  arismg  from  very  ob- 
vious causes.  The  principal  of  these  are  the  identity  of 
kinguage,  the  similitude  of  manno^  and  habits,  and  the 
extensive  commerce  between  the  United  States  and  Bri- 
tain. To  proye  the  ii^uence  arising  fix>m  these,  it  is  un- 
necessary to  go  beyond  my  own  person.  I  landed  in  Ame- 
rica a  stranger.  I  travelled  through  die  countiy,  associ- 
ating every  where  freely  widi  the  people.  I  was  uni- 
formly remved  9&  a  fri^*    J  waited  on  the  chief  ma*. 


212 


^     l^AYElS  IN   THE 


gistitte  of  Arnica  altogether  in  an  iin|[irenieditdted  man* 
ner.  I  sent  up  my  address  as*  **  a  native  6f-iBritam."  His 
conduct  and  conversation  have  been  fai^ifiilly  recbrded  in 
the  preceding  chapter,  and  the  public  can  judge  of  it. 
Did  it  look  like  prejudice  againist  Brttaiti  or  British  pec 
pief— ^I  sitty  no. 

In  regard  to  French  influence,  it  stands  upon  a  fixiting 
cxactl)^  the  reverse.  The  natives  of  France  have  a  differ- 
ent language,  and  different  manners  and  habits.  When 
they  ariive  in  this  couhtiy,  they  have  a  language  to  learn; 
they  never  can  learn  to  speak  it  with  the  fluency  of  a  na- 
tive; and  th^liave  few  ideas  in  common^  sa  that  there 
really  is  little  whereon  to  ground  a  free  interchange  of  sen- 
timents and  of  friendship.  Accordingly  it  is  found,  that 
&e  French  natives  in  the  country  are  generally  a  quiet, 
peaceable  people,  who  associate  mosdy  among  themselves, 
and  pay  little  or  no  attention  to  politics,  or  to  public  con- 
cerns. I  cannot  illustrate  this  subject  better  than  by  a 
quotation  from  M*  Talle3rrand.  He  ^  had  travelled  exten. 
sively  in  the  United  States,  and  had  paid  very  close  atten- 
tion to  the  manners  of  the  people.  He  closes  a  series  of 
observations  with  this  sentiment.  '-  In  all  my  travels 
through  the  country,  I  never  saw  an  Englishman  that  was 
not  treated  as  a  native;  I  never  saw  a  Frenchman  that  was 
not  treated  as  a  stranger." 

SI*  Passing  over  mere  party-bickerings,  which  I  leave  with 
a  great  deal  of  pleasure  to  the  newspapers,  I  shall  here  re- 
markj  that  it  appeared  to  me,  there  was  every  disposition 
to  have  m  anucsdsle  adjustment  of  all  differences  with 
Britain,  and  to  cultivate  a  friendly  intercourse  to  every  ex- 
tent that  the  natives  nilitually  wished,  or  that  their  wants 
ftii^ht  call  for ;  and  as  to  partiality  for  Bonaparte  and  the 


Fren 

ed,t] 

ened 

tweei 

,dispo 

not  a 

loss  G 

a  Gre 

valual 

ced  t< 

numb 

black 

presse 

virtue 

the  go 

the  H] 

with  tl 

Intl 

^  Alt 

Ale 

tomac, 

It  is  lai 

ing  on< 

airy.     J 

habitant 

ly  incK 

and  jai] 

considei 

inhabita 

flour  and 


%ia, 


was 


DI8TBICT   OF  COLUMBIA. 


^13 


n."  His 
;0f dcd  in 
»e  of  it. 
tish  peo- 

a  iboting 
e  a  differ- 
I.    When 
!  tbleam; 
y  of  a  na- 
that  there 
ige  of  sen- 
bund,  that 
[y  a  quiet, 
hcmselves, 
mblic'  con. 
thain  by  a 
lied  exten. 
ilose  atten- 
a  series  of 
ij  travels 
that  was 
that  was 


French,  it  was  my  sincere  opinion,  very  deliberately  form- 
ed, that  ther^^vas  none.  Hence  my  opinion  was  strength- 
ened as  to  the  probability  of  a  good  understanding  be- 
tween the  two  countries;  for  I  was  satisfied  of  the  friendly 
.disposition  of  the  British  ministry,  i  knew  that  they  did 
not  all  view  America  in  the  same  light,  and  I  dreaded  the 
loss  of  Mr*  Fox ;  but  while  a  Grerwille,  an  Erskine,  and 
a  Grey,  rem^dned  in  the  cabinet,  I  was  convinced  that  the 
valuable  trade  to  the  United  States  would  not  be  sacrifi. 
ced  to  a  crooked  policy^  nor  to  gratify  the  avarice  of  a 
number  of  unprincipled  speculators.  I  saw,  indeed,  a 
black  cloud  in  the  rear.  A  most  powerful  toiy  faction 
pressed  upoh  die  national  councils,  and  almost  browbeat 
virtue  out  of  counteniance ;  and  this  faction  was  strong  in 
the  good- wiir  of  the  court.     But,  to  counterbalance  this, 

the    HEIR     APPARENT,    THE    PRINCE    OF    WaLES,    WaS 

with  the  whig  party,  and  I  hoped  for  the  best. 

In  the  afternoon  I  took  my  departure,  in  a  ferry-boat,  " 
^  Alexandria,  wluch  I  reached  at  6  o'clock. 

Alexandria  is  atuated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Po- 
tomac, in  the  south-east  comer  of  the  district  of  Columbia. 
It  is  laid  out  on  the  plan  of  Philadelphia^  the  streets  cross- 
ing  one  another  at  right  angles,  and  they  are  broad  and 
airy.  It  qontained,  by  the  census  of  1800,  4096  fi^ee  in- 
habitants, and  875  slaves ;  the  population  has  since  great- 
ly increased.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house 
and  jail,  a  bank,  and  an  epi^opal  church.  I  observed 
considerable  shipping  in  the  river,  and  learned  that  the 
inhabitants  have  a  pretty  extensive  trade,  principally  in 
flour  and  tobacco,  * 

The  weather,  during  my  stay  iri  the  district  of  Colum- 
Ibia,  was  clear  and  very  "mrm ;  and  from  the  observations* 


^^1 


214 


TUAVXUi  IN 


I  made,  I  was  satisfied  that  there  must  be  ^./jnatarial  dif. 
ierence  of  clunate  between  this  place  and  P^addphia,  the 
great  change  hi^pening  somewhere  near  the  Pa^psco 
river,  agreeably  to  the  opinion  of  Vokiey. 

On  applying  at  the  mail  8t^;e-ofiice,  I  found  there 
were  10  plaees  engaged,  so  that  it  was  with  some  difficulty 
I  could  get  aecommodated ;  but  they  agreed  to  squeeze 
me  amongst  the  number ;  and  J  retired  to  bed,  resolved 
to  sleep  as  fast  a^  possible,  with  a  view  of  getting  up  at  4 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  hour  at  which  I  was  toM  the 
stage  would  set  out. 


*.■■ 


kr 


mliWiirii 


•nv,r  tt*.  "Wfe 


MoK 

Ito6k] 
tie  befo] 
miles,  t 
last.    F 
only  rer 
soil  tolei 
After 
quainted 
mentionc 
show  the 
the  place 
going  to 
were  goi 
miles;  G 
one  to  ] 
different 
going  to 
Ajs  we 
were  to  b 
fice-bedre 
president ; 
being  vio 
to  the 


« 


yiRomiA. 


215 


da,  the 


r(.  .    if' 


-  J 


'\0i--. 


Hit  " 


i^V      '^:U?J*'- 


OftAFTEft  XXrV. 

„ ' '  '    "        '  '  '  '  '       - 

Alexandrtay-^ilichmondy — Petersburg. 

Monday,  October  6th,  18G6,  at  half  past  4  o'clock, 
i  took  my  place  in  the  stage,  and  ive  left  Alexandria  a  lit- 
tle before  5.  We  travelled  by  a  pretty  rough  roacJ,  17 
miles,  to  Occoquhan  creek,  where  we  stopped  for  break- 
&st  Part  of  our  journey  being  before  day-light,  I  could 
only  remark  that  the  country  appeared  uneven,  and  the 
soil  tolerably  good. 

After  breakfast,  the  company  began  to  get  a  little  ac- 
quainted with  each  other,  and  to  exchange  sentiments.  I 
mentioned  before  that  we  were  11  in  number,  and  it  will 
show  the  nature  of  travelling  in  this  country,  to  mention 
the  places  of  destinati6n.  Three  of  the  passengers  were 
going  to  Richmond,  in  Virginia,  126  miles  distant ;  two 
were  going  to  Columbia,  in  South  Carolina,  distant  511 
miles;  one  to  Augusta,  in  Georj^,  distant  596  miles; 
one  to  Fayetteville,  North  Carolina,  351  miles;  three  to 
different  places  in  the  interior  of  the  country;  and  I  was 
going  to  Savannah,  in  Georgia,  distant  653  miles. 

Ajs  we  constituted  a  little  republic,  and  several  of  us 
were  to  be  many  days  together,  we  proceeded  to  elect  of- 
fice-bearers. The  gentleman  fiom  Fayetteville  was  chosen 
president ;  the  company  conferred  on  me  the  honour  of 
being  vice-president;  and  thus  or^nized  we  proceeded 
to  the  "  order  of  the  dav." 


216 


TKAV«L£i   IK 


Our  president,  who  was  called  captain,  by  which  title 
I  shall  hereafter  denominate  him,  was  an  excellent  tmvd. 
ling  companion.  He  si^  a  good  song ;  told  »  good  stc 
ly;  said  was,  withal,  very  fiicetious,  and  abounded  in 
mirth,  humour,  ai^  jollity. 

He  had  not  long  taken  the  chair,  when,  with  the  per. 
mission  of  the  company,. he  sung ahumorous  sons',  which 
put  us  aU  m  good  spuits.  He  then  proposed  that  each  man 
in  his  turn  should,  M^hen  called  on, by  the  president^  ^ga 
song,  tell  a  story,  or  pay  five  cents;  which  being  unanimous^ 
ly  agreed  to^was  immediately  carried  intO' executipn,  and 
called  forth  a  wonderful  degree  of  merriment  and  good- 
humour.    I  found  myself  a  little  at  a  loss,  as  I  did  not 
wish  to  part  with  my  cents,  and  J  had  nothing  but  Scots 
storks  and  Scots  songs;  but  I  soon  found  that the^e  were 
highly  satis&ctory,^  and  that  the  name  of  Robert JBurns  was 
as  well  known,  and  as.  highly  esteemedlin  Virginia,  as  in 
Ajrshire...  ^;.n..;.,v      -,....   .... 

.  ,Qur  captain  was  both  a  son  of  Neptune  and  a  son  of 
Mars ;  and  could  adapt  the  technical  language  of  these 
professions  to  the  different  movements  of  the  stage,  with 
remarkable  facility.  When  the  coach  heeled  to  one  side, 
he  \vould  call  out,  *'  to  the  right  a^d  1^,  and  cover  your 
danks-r-whiz ;"  and  when  we  passed  a  stream  by  a  ford, 
he  would  sing  out,  **  by  the  deep  nine,"  accompanied  with 
all  the  attitudes  of  heaving  the  lead.  I'he  day  was  plear, 
pleasant,  and  healthy;  and,  in  this  strain  of  merriment 
and  good*humour,  we  prosecuted  our  journey  nmch  to 
our  satis&ction. 

From  where  we  breakfasted,  we  travelled  through  a 
hilly  country,  and  but  partially  cultivated,  to  Dun^fries^ 
a  small  tbivn  containii^g  about  ,399  inhabitants,  court- 


hoas 

ahill 

milef 

Fi 

ofRs 

crossi 

300  Ji 

cipal*^ 

my,  c 

trade;j 

The 

hyVm 

He^c 

piaoe/i 

Chesap 

where 

Fmferi 

ncksbu 
tfarougl 
Bowling 


above  V 
about  8 
forms  1 
TOmile 
river,  w 
that  desc 
ver.    T] 

rfversi'iw 


VOL. 


TmOIHIA; 


217 


ich  title 
t  travel, 
oodsto- 
nded  \n 

the  per- 
gr  which 
^achmaii 
at^siinga 
aniiQous. 
itipn,  and 
nd  good- 
L  did  not 
but  Scots 
tihe^were 
^rnswas 
;inia,  as  in 

d  a  son  of 
J  of  these 
I,  with 
one  ^de, 
^ver  your 
by  a  ford, 
iedwith 
was  plear, 
|merriment 
l^iich  to 

[through  a 

Its,  court- 


house^ jail,  &c. ;  and,  from  thence,  we  passed  on  through 
a  hilly  country,  but  more  improved,  to  Fredericksburg,  25 
miles,  where  we  stqjped  for  the  night. 

Freoer^cxsburc  is  situated  on  the  south-west  side 
of  Rappahannock  river.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets 
crossing  one  another  at  right  angles,  and  consists  of  about 
300  hou8<^s,  containing  about  1600  inhabitants.  The  prin- 
cipal ^public  buildings  are  an  episcopal  church,  an  acade* 
my,  ^court^houte,  andjaiK  It  carries  on  a  considerable 
trade;^  principally  in  flour  and  tobacco. 

The  Rappahannock  river  rises  in  the  Blue  Mountains, 
by  two  considerable  streams,  called  Rapid  Ann  river  and 
Hec^eman  river ;  which  unite  about  12  miles  above  this 
place,  and,  running  k  south-east  Course,  fidls  into  the 
Chesapeak  bay  about  00  miles  below  Fredericksburg, 
where  it  is  abotit  thred  miles  broad.  It  is  navigable  to 
Fredericksburg,  wherd  it  has  two  fethoms  water*. 

Qn  Tuesday,  the  7th  October,  W6  started  from  Frede- 
licksbui^,  at  1  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  travelled 
through  an  uneven  country,  and  pretty  well  cultivated,  to 
Bowling*Greenv  22  miles;  and  a  few  miles  further,  we 
passed  Maitapony  river.  This  river  rises  about  20  miles 
above  where  we  crossed  it,  and  runs  a  south-east  course, 
about  80  ihil^  when  it  joins  the  Pamunky  rivef ,  and 
focms  ForAr  river.  It  is  navigable  to  Downer's  bridge, 
70  miles  above  its  mouthf.  About  15  miles  from  this 
river,  we  travelled  through  a  country  nearly  similar  to 
that  described^  but  the  soil  rather  sandy,  to  Pfl;mfm%  ri- 
ver. ,  lltts  river  is  foiled  by  the  north  and  south  Anna 
rivers^' which  rise  in  the  north'-west,  hbout  50  or  60  miles 


f 


•  Jefferson's  Ncttes  on  Virguiia. 
VOL.    I.  2  E 


t  Ibid. 


218 


TBJlVBLt  IN 


distant,  and  form  a  junction  about  15  miles  above  where 
we  croBsed.  From  thence  it  ^holds  a  south««a8t  coune, 
but  with  many  windings,  about  50  miles,  whei^it  forms 
the  junction  with  Mattapony  river  aforesaid.  It  is  naviga- 
ble for  boats  about  40  miles  above  where  we  crossed  it 
YoiK  RiviJt  is  omiposed  of  these  two  rivers,  and  widen- 
ing to  a  considerable  extent,  it  pasaes  into  the  Chesapeak 
bay,  by  a  channel  of  about  three  miles.  Yorktown  is  situ, 
ated  12  miles  up  this  river,  and  is  the  best  harbour  in  the 
state  for  vessels  of  the.  largest  size.  **  The  river  narrows 
to  the  width  of  a  mile  at  York,  and  is  contained  within 
very  hig^  banks,  close  under  which  vessels  mayfride.  It 
hdds  four  fethoms  water  at  high  tide  for  25  nuks«bove 
York,  where  the  river  b  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  the 
channel  only  75  fethoms.  At  the  conflueape  of  the  Pa. 
munky  and  Mattapony  it  is  reduced  to  three  fiithonu 
deep.**'  York  is  remarkable  as  being^  the  place  jrheve 
iht  contest  with  Britain  was  decided  by  the  capture  of 
lord  Comwallis. 

After  crossing  this  river  we  passed  Hanover  courthouse, 
and  the  road  proceeds  through  a  country  neariy  rimUar  to 
thatalready  described,  24miles^  to  Richmond,  the  ca^itolof 
Virginia,  whi^  we  reached  to  dinner.  Inour  vatyme  passed 
Falling  creek,  a  brancKof  James  river,.after  which  the  coun- 
try  improves,  and  is  handsomely  settled.  The  day  was 
very  clear,  and  we  had  at  one  place  a  view  of  the  South- 
^west  Mountains  -.    ;       >       ;  <i 

4  jRiGBMONn  is  handsomely  situated  on  James  river,  im. 
mediatdy  below  the  fells.  It  is  a  large  elegantcity^  con. 
sisling  of  more  than  1000  houaes,^  and  contains  about  8000 


:feKl|fM>:^^.^  J«ffi*Wm**'  N0t«». 


'h*''W 


»**>••«• 


Vv 


s-k- 


.^it^ 


▼IBOIKIAi 


919 


ifihibitaiits*^  The  ttne-houae  stands  on  an  eminence^ 
mA  2r  oomiderad  the  handsomest  buildup  in  the  slate, 
haring'  sfiadous  apartments  for  the  meeting;  of  the  legisla- 
ture, and  eommodions  rooms  for  the  trannction  of  tl^e 
pttUie  basiness  of  the  state*  The  odier  public  buildings 
are  the  court-houae^  jail,  and  theatre,  two  places  for  pub- 
lie  urorship,  a  fteenMsoii's  hall,  and  diree  t)obacco  ware* 
houseSk  Richmond  is  situated  in  a  fertile  healthy  coun- 
try, and  is  well  supplied  with  provisions;  and  it  is  flou- 
ttehhtg  in  manufactures  and  commerce.  There  is  an 
MAoary  in  die  neighbourhood^  said  to  be  the  best  in  the 
United  States.  The  city  is  remariuibly  well  situated  for 
fflill-seets ;  some  of  the  finest  flour-miUs  in  the  state  have 
blely^been  erected,  and  the  quantity  of  flour  mami&ctured 
MMluaUy  is  immense.  There,  are  also  roiling  and  slitting- 
siitts^  oU-mitts,  and  several  others;  and  sevend  extensive 
di8tillerie»>and  breweries.  Richmond  carries  on  a  consi- 
derable trade,  principally  in  tobacco  and  flour,  with  many 
places  of  the  United  States,  particularly  NewiYork,  which 
ilk  return  supplies  it  with  dry-goods  and  groceries.  The 
inhabitants  here,  lUce  those  in  the  sea-ports,  are  mostly 
dressed  in  British  manuftctures,  and  are  very  gay.  They 
look  remarkably  well,  and  the  ladies,  of  whom  we  only  had 
t  glanoe  as  we  passed  through  the  city,  appeared  very 
handsome. 

Some  nails  in  my  portmanteau  having  given  way,  I 
carried  it  to  a  saddler  to  get  it  repedred ;  and  on  my  re- 
turn to  the  tavern^  I  found  a  native  of  Perth,  ta  whom  I 
had  sent  a  messier  waiting  for  me;  and  what  with  oon^ 
versatioR  about  the  place  oi  our  nativi^,  the  importunity 


By  the  census  of  1810,  the  numbsr  is  9735. 


sao 


TBAVBLS   IN 


of  thr  ■UgC'drivcr,  and  the  humourof  our  merry  caplaiiit 
I  was  almost  ^lort  sMpt  of  a  diniicar.  Having  finished  my 
repast  as  nqudly  as  1  could,  I  took  my  place  iiv  the  stagey 
and  we  set  out  for  Petersbuig. ' 

Several  of  the  passengers  had  left  us  at  Richmond; 
but  as  we  tool^  up  two  or  three  gentlemen  who  were  re* 
turning  from  a  horse-race,  the  stage  waft  stillrfuU;  and  we 
continued  our  regulations,  which  ouc  new.. Jndmheraiasr 
sented  to  with  great  cordiality.  ,  :    i  \  ,  hi .  ri  i 

^  On  Icaviuf^  the  city,  we  passed  James  River  by  a  long 
wooden  bridge,  at  which  each  of  the  passengers  had  to 
pay  toll,  a  circumstance  Inever  saw  bef<)re,  it  being  com* 
mon  to  lay  the  toU  on  the  carriage  only.  The  ^enery  at 
this  place  was  very  beautiful.  /  f 

James  RivfiR  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  state 
of  Virginia.  It  rises  near  the  Allegany  Mountains,  nearly 
200  miles  west  from.  Richmond*,  and^  pursuing  a  oourafc 
to  the  eastward,  runs  through  all  the  other  chains^  passes 
Richmond,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Appomatnz 
about  25  miles  below  that  city.  <  From  thence  iti  exhibits 
a  curious  appearance,  widening  and  contracting  alteruately, 
andy  by  a  crooked  passage  .of  about .  70  mile8f<  falls  into 
ChesapeakBay  15  miles  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Henry; 
its  whole  length,  including^  its  windings,  i^eing  upwards 
300  miles.  The  principal  tributary  streams  to.  thb  river 
are  the  Rivatfnah^  on  which  is  Monticelloj  the  seat  of  pre- 
sident Jefferson,  the  Appomatox,  the  Chickahomany,  the 
NansenoLond,  and  the  Elizabeth,  on  which  last  is  Norfolk. 
f^^The  whole,  of  Elizabeth  River  is  a  harbour,  and  would 
contain  upwards  of  300  ships..  The  channel  is  from  150 
to  200  fathom  wide,  and,  at  flood  tide,  affords  18  feet  wa- 
ter  to  Norfolk.    The  Nansemond,  is  navigable  to  Sleepy 


rViftcnviA'. 


321 


dmy 

stage, 

nond; 
arc  re. 

an  a»- 

along 
had  to 
1^  com* 
nery  at 
,.  ■  ■' 
he  state 
linearly 
t  eourifc 


K>inatox 
exhibits 
aruately, 
lUa  into 
Henry; 
wards 
is  river 
of  pre- 
,  the 
[arfolk. 
would 
)m  150 
feet  wa- 
Sleepy 


Hole  Ibryends^  350  lofis;  to  Sullblk  for  thole  oTlOO 
torn ;  and  to  Milncr's  for  thoae  of  25v  Chiikahommy  hai 
at  Ht  notith  a  bar,  on  which  is  only  13  feet  water  at  eom- 
mon  flood  tide.  Vessels  peasing  thatt  may  g;6'8  mik^s  up 
the  river }  those  of  10  feet  water  may  go  4  mile^'futther ; 
and  those  of  6  tons  burden  20  miletr  Airther.  The  Riv^. 
larii  is  navigable  for  cilnoes  and  batteatux  22  miles,  to  the 
South-west  Mountains,  and  may  be  easily  opened  to  navi- 
gation through  these  mountains  to  its  fork  above '  Chaih- 
kittesviHe*." 

*^  James  River  itself  affords  harbour  for  vessels  of  any 
size  in  Hampton  Road,  but  not  in  safety  through  the 
winter",  and  there  is  navigable  water  for  thcfm  as  far  as 
Mulberry  Island.  A  40  gun  ship  goes  to  Jailriestowh, 
and,  lightening  'herself ^  may  pass  to  Harrison's  Bar,  on 
which  there  i^  only  15  feet  water.  Vessels  of  250  tons 
mi^  go  to  Warwick ;  those  of  125  go  to  Rocket's,  a  mile 
bdow  Richmond;  from  thence  is  fibout  7  feet  water  to 
Richmond;  md  about  the  centre  of  the  bwh,'4i  feet, 
wbsre  the  navigation  i^'  interrupted  bf  fall$^  which,  in  a 
course  of  6  miles,  descend  about  80  feet  perpendicular. 
Above  these^  it  is  resumed  in  canoes  and' bdtteaux,  and  is 
prosecuted  safely  to  within  10  miles  of  the  Blue  Ridge ; 
and  even  through  the  Ridge  a  ton  weight  has  been  brought ; 
and  the  expence  would  not  be  grdat,  when  tompared  with 
its  objects^  to  open  a  tolerable  navigation  up  Jackson's 
River  and  Carpenter's  Creek,  to  within  25  miles  of  How- 
ard's Credc  of  Greenbriar,  both  of  which  have  then  water 
aiiough  .to  float  vessels  into  the  Great  Kanhaway.  In 
some  future  state  of  population,  I  think  it  possible  that  its 


*  Jeffersdn*8  Notes. 


-,-,?«@rv 


fMrriiinr 

^&vi|iiiM  i^y'Sso  Ik  ihfldci  t6  itttx^oigk'Witlf^likt  of  the 
PotomaC)  and,  through  that,'  to  tommumcate  by  a  short 
piMtag^  ^  the  Ohio*:**  ' 

^"^A Icom^i^'has  bdlen  inccirporated  by  the  sitate  for  im. 


the  havig^bri 'of  tMs^  river  ^n^'kc^^  of 
llO,00(!rdoirais,  Of  which"  th^  state  btimi  50,000;  and  they 
ai^  b<^bifd  b^  t!il^'  charter  to  remove  all  obstirdoidons,  so'as 
there  may  never  be  less  than  12  inches  of  nt^ter  over  all 
tlie  sBuoals  fi^m  the  upj^  end  of  the  lower  faHs  to  Pitrtton* 
borough,  ill  the  iiiid^e  of  the  moiintliins,  and  distant  iront 
iUciimbild  upWaMs  of'^  m^^  Th^  colhpahy  have 
p6secbte(i  ^e  bu^iiiess  inth  a  kuddble  iseal,  inid  have 
ex[xihded  bpibrds  of  1860,000  dolh^  npoti'it.  A'cana! 
is  (^rai^'fn^m ilie  river  at  tbe  upper  end'of  the  MIk-  and 
proceeds  200  yards,  when  it  is  lowered  34  feet,  Ijy  3 
locfe;  ahdagaitilehters  the  river.  Frotti  tliehtJte  the  iwvi- 
gation  is  pdr^  f6r  3  miksi,  Mien  ^oliher  tilAial'cbnimeiu 
ces,  aiul  runs  3j  ^les'to  a  bason  at  RidhM«id,  iitlMt  die 
navigation'^ie^&sites.  It  Was  cbtvtempilated  hf  th^  (ikf. 
iei^to  (lldhtiiiue  the'ckn^  tb  the  tide  V^alct^  but  thef  jfto  is 
ibrdk''piese^;su^p^^.'     •  '■  '"  ^-^^^^^sf^^^vji- .,,,*v....v 

and  is  80  feet  aboveiii^-Water.  Ftblrii  ^  tii^^nd  of 
the  g^t  falls  t6  tie  basin  the  diMte  is  6f  miled,  and 
the  descCM  4S  feet ;  iri^itig  ih  all  128  feet  descent  in  8 

*  The  navigation  of  thc!  river  from  above  the  fiiHs  to  its 
ex^nut]^  kmbfig  thrm^^  lis  considered  bett^  than 
that  of  any  of  flie  other  Atlantic  rivers ;  and  it  irtay  be  ob- 
ser veil  that  (fdai  is  ibiliid  here  \n  great  abiihdance,  a  cir^ 


CUDII 

tide  V 

Frc 

where 

see  bj^ 

the  |dq 

an4n€ 

^>  ■ 

to. 

maybe 
has  en 

and  foii 
cea^^ 

andin^l 
^W,  a 

slaves. 

oflrisb 

manners 


n 


worship, 
The 

arenumi 
It  was 

weleame 

morning. 


•  Jefferaoh's  ftdtcs. 


stof  th6 
)f  a  short 

.*"  ■'■  ■ 

t  for  im. 
^pitail  of 

uidthey 
onS)  so'as 
r  over  all 
toPatton. 
stdntfroiA 
pahf  have 

^have 

A'tanal 

;  fUte,  and 

feet,  l)y  3 

fetheiwvi- 

^  thtf  dhit- 
thfif  {Aan  is 

RichAiiind, 
jpartJftdof 
mBc^,  and 
iscerit  in  8 


cumtteQce/iirhi^^  Qccure.  no  where  d^m  the  viciiuty  of 
tid^  wat^^  in  the  y^itjited  States. 

From  Richmond  we  travelled  25  iniles  to  Peterst>urg^ 
\vher& Wf,9to[i|i!^4^  the  night  The.cpuntryr  I  could 
see  t>ut  jwur|iaUy,^^  ,>ve  passed  ii,  corsi4j^|j^^c  part  of  it  ii| 
the  jdiirk.  We. crossed. several  small  streams  in  our  way, 
an4  Jnej»r  Petersburg  ihi^  Appamattox  river  before  allude^ 

to-      .:..        <■;,     ■  ,*i 

Tim  liyeic  rises  near  the  moimtains,  and  is  in  length  up- 
war^.f^  100,  inyUes  tQ  its  junction  with  James  river.  **  It 
may  be  paylgated  as  far  as  Broadway's  by  any  vessel  which 
has  cr^)69ed  JH^rrison's  bar,  on  James  river.  It  keeps  ei^t 
or|en  $set  water  a  mile  or  two  higher  up  to  Fisher's  bar, 
and  four  feet  on  that^  and  vipwards,  where  all  navigation 
ceases*." 

P^TjBlt^ll U.i0  i^^tuated  on  the  afonesaid  river,  imm^.;; 
(^y  |;]|^QW  d)^iaU^^^  ^ndjs  a  place  of  consid^bl^  wealth 
and  imp9rt{^;i^ey  carrying  on  a  great  trade  in  tobacco  and 
flour,  a  considerable,  portion  of  which  is  wiUi  New  York. 
The  populationv  in  Isop,  was>  2Q34  free  pepple,  and  1481 
slayes.  The  population,  is  said  to  be  cpmposc^d  principally 
of irisb  p^^e,  and  they  are  distinguished  f^  fi^  liberal 
mannors,  and  high-spirited  patriotism. 

The  principal  public  builduigs  are,  two  plapes  for  pubUq 
worshiqp*  a  court-house,  jail,  and  freemason's  hall. 

The  market  is  well  supplied  with  provisions;  and  there 
are  numerous  mills  in  and  about  the  town. 

ult  was  .past  11  o'clock  at  night  before  we  arrived^  and 
we  learned  that  the  stage  was  to  set  out  at  one  o'clpck  next 
morning.    We  conddered  it  therefore  entirely  useless  to 


*. Jefferson's  Notes. 


sm 


TIj^Ay^liB   IN 


go4P  i^,  and  the  ci^ptain  carr]e4  nie  to  see  some  gentle- 
mePc  of  his  acquaintance.  There  weie  six  or,  eight  of 
fbeiii,  aU  ligreeat^le  young  men,  most  of  them  irishmen ; 
an4  the/  captain, jb^ing  intimately  acquainted  with  them \vas 
i^elcome^  F^thllQ^CJIi^^^^  and  I  wascordiaUy  Ijaken 
by  the  handas  hisiriend,  for  whom  be  was  (leased  ^toex» 
f^Tpss^  a  particular  regard*  Tb^y  had  a  violin^ in  the  r^, 
whiph  was.imipediately  adjusted  to  the  tune  of  the  Thistle 
i0td  t^,  Shfwtrock%  aaxd  we.  had  a  most  hannonious«con. 
cert  of  jig^,  wd  strathspeySy  whjle  Yqnkee  Doodle  was,  not 
fbiigqtten^,  l^he  song, the  sentiment, and  thetoast  follow* 
ed.  **  An  age  could  i(iot  have  made  us  better  acquainted," 
^dl  we^  unitf^d  in  ppinion>  that  tbere  was^  no  country  on  the 
face  of  the  earth  like  this,  where  people  of  all  nations^  kin- 
dreds, tongues,  and, languages,  could  with  sucb  haj^y  &• 
c^i^  n>eet  and  harmonize  in  the  spirit  of  unity,  and  in  the 
bond  of  pe^^e,  "  3ut  pleasures  ^re  Bke  poppies  spcead." 
"^e  were  in  the  full  exercise  and  enjoyment  of  thes^  sen- 
timents when  we  were  called  away  to  take  our  places  in 
the  stage,  and  I  left  this  litd^  liberal  circle  with  sentinients 
of  friendly  regard.  - 

Octobqr  8,  at  one  o'clock,  we  left  Petersbuirg.  At  thb 
early  hour  we  could  see  nothing,  bat  we  Jelt  that  the  coun- 
try M'as  hilly,  and  the  road  very  rough.  By  the  time  the 
day  (k^^ed  upon  us  we  had  ^veiled  aboul  20  miles,  and 
the  country  appeared  pretty  fertile;  we  saw  tnany  flourish- 
ing fields  of  tobacco,  but,  in  consequence  of  the  long  and 
severe  drought,  the  country  exhibited  a  parched  appear- 
ance. 

*  The  reader  will  not  find  this  aif  in  any  of  thei  modern  English 
collections. 

■Vx7*'S!Sp  »«^t^■■i    JCSB-/"*^'    ■'1*.'i''~-' 


VIBGlKlJki 


i325 


gOitle. 
light  of 
shmen ; 

ly  tjaken 

eThisUe 
ousicon- 
>  wdB  not 
St  foUow* 
uamted;' 
37^^  op  the 
ions,  Idn- 

happyfii- 
uidinthe 
sspcead." 
thes^  sen- 
places  in 
LtiQie^ts 


At  $3  miles  fix>m  Petersburg  we  passed  Ab/f away  river^ 
by  a  wooden  bridge.  This  river  rises  about  50  miles 
above  where  we  crossed  it,  and  running  a  south-east  course, 
above  100  roiles,^  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Meherrin 
river,  in  .North  Carolina,  and^  thro^ghtthe  medium  of  the 
Chowan  river^  falls  into  Albemarle  sound. 

At  ^3^^  miles  flnom  the  Nottaway  river  we  drossed  the 
Meherrin.  The  latter  part  of  the  distance,  the  country 
was  much  improved,  and  the  road  good.  We  nowiodSl- 
sionally  saw  some  cn^  of  cotton,  but  the  princ^  pro- 
duce was  tobacco  and  com.  '  The  Mehenm  river  rises 
about  60  miles  above  where  we  cipssed  it,and  running  60 
miles  more,  in  a  south-east  directkH),  it  forms  a  junction 
with  the  Nottaway,  before  mentioned^;    -fjfi  -  ^^  }>  ^       ;;  '^ 

About  12  miles  beyond  this^  l^st  mentioned  river,  yve 
passed  the  North  Carolina  tiney  and  here  i  pause  to  take  H' 
view  of,  the  gi^eat  and:  importaiat ;  state  of  Virgima^ 


f  »    •  ; 


vol.  t. 


2  t 


t.>. 


I'.f  ^' 


ifiifVMil 


im 


^'tma^M 


OHAFTER  XXXVI. 


<  -, 


Virginia. 

SfiFORE  1  prbceed  to  ^ve  «  genatil  account  of  this 
iMate,  I  may  notir^,  that  a  most  important  service  has  been 
tendered  to  its  geogra^y,  by  the  pubfication  of  the  Notes 
of  Mr.  Jefeson;  a  iirork  replete  widi  valuable  information, 
Itftd  Exhibiting  m  evety  p{^  the  marics  of  a  vigorous  in- 
tellect and  a  philosophic  ftund.  This  work  may  be  justly 
Cohsidiered  as  the  basii^j^  die  geography  of  the  state  of 
Vir^ia ;  and  though,  from  the  progressive  nature  cS  the 
subject,  it  does  not  now  Conttun  the  necessaiy  infermation, 
on  some  points;  yet  the  traveller,  in  this  state,  will- find  it 
a  most  valuable  x;onq)anion;  and  by  giving  it  a  careful  pe- 
rusal will  be  amply  rewarded  for  his  trouble. 
1  "  The  Notes  were  written  in  tiba  year  1781,  and  some- 
what  corrected  and  enlarged  in  l'"82,  in  answer  to  queries 
proposed  to  the  author,  by  a  foreigner  of  distinction  (M. 
de  Marbois,  secretary  of  the  French  legation),  then  resid- 
ing in  America.'^  The  work  is  arranged^im  the  follow- 
ing plan.  *  * 
"  1  Boundaries. 

2  Rivers.  v 

3  Sea-ports. 
f       4  Mountains. 

5  Cascades. 
^6  Productions,  inmeral,  ve|etable,  and  animal. 


▼I»«|]|l4r. 


20 


>/•'» 


mt  of  this 
5  has  been 
^e  Notes 
formation, 
gdrous  in- 
y  be  justly 
he  state  of 
tufe  of  the 
[ifonnation, 
I  will  find  it 
careful  pe- 


1 1 


# 


* 


p,:- 


7  Climate^  '  ■    '„    .  } 

8  Populatiaii. 

9  Militaiy  force. 

10  Marine  force. 

11  Aborigines.  ^'^^ 

12  Counties  and  towns^. 

13  Constitution. 

14  Laws. 

15  Colleges,  buildings,  andi  roads. 

16  Proceedings  aa  to  tones. 
ITReU^on. 

18  Msmners.    . 

19  Manu&ctures. 
30  Sul]jects  of  commerce. 

21  Weights,  measures,  and  mcmey. 

22  Public  revenue. 

23  Histories,  memorials,  and  state  papers.^' 
With  three  niambers  of  an  Appendix. 
It  is  from  this  valuable  work  that  the  /acts  exhibited  in 

the  following  shcnrt  sketch  are  chiefly  taken ;  and  wherever 
the  brevity  of  the  subject  would  admits  I  have  given  them 
in  Mr.  Jefferson's  own  elegant  language,  although  I  have 
adhered  to  my  original  arrangement  of  the  various  sub- 
jects. It  may  be  observed  here,  that  ^nce  Mr.  Jefferson's 
Notes  were  ccAipiled,  Kentucky  has  been  formed  into  a 
separate  state,  which  makes  a  material  alteration  in  the 
dimensions  of  the  state  of  Virginia. 

ViRGXNi^  is  situated  between  36°  30'  and  39°  43' 
north  latitude,  and  1°  east,  and  6°  25'  west  longituder 
The  extreme  length  of  the  state  from  east  to  west  is  442 
miles,  and  the  extreme  breadth  from  the  North  Carolina^ 
line  to  the   Pennsylvania  Ufie  is  235;   but  it  may  b^ 


'n 


1^  ^  'rtammM, 

db^iervedthat  there  is  a  small  port  of  thfe^  state  that  inches 

along  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  to  the  w€SI  of  Fenniylvanie, 

aboiit  60  miles  long,  and  on  an  average  10  broad;  and 

there  is  another  small  part,  about  55  miles  Idng  and  12 

broad,  to  the  east  of  the  Chesapeak.    The  area  is  com. 

puted  at  70,500  square  miles,  beii^  nearly  as  large  as  the 

whole  island  of  Britaui,  computed  at  77,243;   Hie  humber 

of  acres  in  Virginia  is  45,120,000.  ..^  i\^ 

^-^^  The  face  of  the  country  is  sbnienivlmt  adHkilated  to 

Pennsylvania,  including  Jersey,  Delaware,  and  Maryland. 

The  eastern  part  extends  plong  the 'sea  coast  alk>ut  115 

miles,  of  which  the  outlet  of  the   Chesapeak,   already 

noticed,  occupies  20 ;  and  this  elegant  confluence  of  waters, 

so  often  referred  to,  forms  a  great  varirty  inthis  part  of 

the  'State,    From'  thig  sear  coast  tb  the  hl^d  of  the  tide 

ivat^rs,  about  100  miles,  the  country  is  nfostly  levd,  and 

abounds  with  «i*a*iiipfei'    From'  thenicfe  to  the  mountains 

it  is  agreeably  unevt^n,*ftnft  affords  delightftil  prbspects. 

Tl^  riiblintaiileuB  disti^dt  is  abbut  100' miles  in  breadth, 

arid  thi^  itidges  ^dbttiifluti,'  4^  in  Pennsylvania,  to  range  from 

W)rth-^§t  to  'siiuth-iivfelrti  ^' ©eyondi  the   ihouritains  the 

ciiiuiWy'S  iAuch  VaHegati^-^here  swellihg  out  irito  con- 

Sid^bfe^  hins,^th^re  siibsiding  ifito  agrefeabfe'  v^leys ; 

and  sd^'cisritiifiues' to  tfie  Ohi6,  about  60  miles.     The 

Alfe^y  chain  Is  the  great  *ridge  Which  di^es  tfie  waters 

oF  the  Atiantic  frbiti  thel' Mississippi,  arid  its  sfuAmit  is 

more  elevated  above  the  o6ea<i  thaii  that  of  the  others: 

biit  itk  relative  heigirt,  compared  with  the  base  oil  which 

it'stkh^i^is  not  so  great,  b^fcause  the  country  rises  behind 

tiie  'sliec6^lve  ridges  lik^  steps  of  stajr^.     The  most 

rievaterf  pbiht  does  nbt  exceed  4000  feet,  and  few  amount 

to  mofe  than  ^500,  ^^ 


■^'V 


:/!r^-if;^^.iU^ 


yiBOINlA. 


229 


stretches 
sylvania, 
ad;  and 
^  and  12 
/is  com- 
ge  as  the 
ehumber 

likted  to 
^ieuryland. 
ilk)ut  115 
i;  already 
of  waters, 
\as  part  of 
^  the  tide 
level,  and 
ittouhtains 
prbspects. 
n  breadth, 
iEttigefrom 
titains  the 
irito  con- 
^^  VJJIeys; 
les.     The 
(iie  waters 
Suifwnit  is 
le  others: 
oil  which 
[ses  beWnd 
The  most 
;w  amount 


The  whole  of  the  Atlantic  rivers  have  been  already 
noticed;  the  others  are  but  few.  The  state  is  watered  to 
the  westward  by  di^  Ohio  upwards  of  240  miles,  and  the 
Great  Sandy  river  forms  the  boundary,  for  upwards  of  100 
mileis,  between  it  and  Kentucky.  The*  most  important 
river,  to  the  westward,  is  the  Great  Kanhaway,  "a  river 
of  considerable  note  for  the  fertility  of  its  lands,  and  still 
more,  as  leading  towards  the  head  waters  of  James  river. 
Nevertheless,  it  is  doubtful  whether  its  great  and  numer- 
ous  Mh  will  admit  a  navigation  but  at  a^  expence  to 
which  it  will  require  ages  to  render  its  inhabitants  equal. 
Hie'^^reat  obfrtacles  begin  at  what  are  called  the  great  falk, 
90  miles  above  its  mouth,  below  which  are  only  5  or  6 
rapids^ '  and  these  passable,  with  some  difficulty,  even  at 
low  water.^  From  the  falls  to  the  mouth  of  Greenbriar  is 
100  matls;  and  thence  to  the  lead  mines  120.  It  is  280 
yards  \nde  at  its  mouth*'^." 

"The  little  Kanhaway  is  150  yards  Wide  at  the  mouthy 
ind  lis  ^igable' for  10  miles  Only t.»*  ^^ 

*  The  Shenandoaii  river  rises  in-  the  interior  of  the  country, 
and'rutimng  a  librth-east- course,  of  about  250  miles, 
through  ^  great  Limestone  valley,  parallel  to  th^  moun- 
tkiitsj  falls  into  the  Potomac  jiist  above  the  Blue  Ridge. 
The  jun<ition'of  the  rivers,  and  the  passage  through  the 
Bhtt  Ridge,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  scenes  in  nature, 
arid"  is  thus  elegantly  described  by  Mr.  Jefferson.  **  You 
stand- Oft  a  very  high  point  pf  land.  On  your  right  comes 
up  th6  Shenandoah,  having  ranged  along  the  foot  of  the 
mouiitain  an  hundred  miles  to  seek  a  vent.  On  your  left 
approaches  the  Potomac,  in  quest  of  a  passage  also. — ^In 


\  I 


*  Jefferson's  Notes.. 


t  Ibid, 


250 


VIRGINIA. 


the'iHioment  of  their  junction  they  rush  together  against 
the  mountain,  rend  it  asunder,  and  pass  off  to  the  sea. 
w  <'Thc  first  glance  of  this  scene  huirks  our  senses  into 
the  opinion  that  this  earth  has  been  created  in  time ;.  tiiat 
the  nraountains  were  formed  iirst,  that  the  rivers  began  to 
flow  afterwards;  that,  in  this  place  particularly,  they  have 
been  dammed  up  by  the  Blue  Ridge  of  mountains,  and 
}iave  formed  an  ocean  which  fil^d  the  whole  valley ;  that 
continuing  to  rise,  they  have  at  length  brpken  over  at  this 
spot,  and  have  torn  the  mountain  down  from  its  summit 
to  its  base.  The  piles  of  rock  on  each  hand,  but  particu- 
larly on  the  Shenandoah,  the  evident  marks  of  their  dis- 
rupture  and  avulsion  frc»n  their  beds  by  the  most  power- 
ful agents  of  nature,  corroborate  the  impression.*— But  the 
chstant  finishing  which  nature  has  given  to  the  picture  is 
of  a  very  different  character. — It  is  a  true  contrast  to  the 
foreground. — It  is  as  placid  and  delightful  as  that  is. wild 
and  tremendous. — For  the  mountain  being  cloven  asunder, 
she  presents  to  your  eye,  through  the  cleft^  a  small  catch 
of  smooth  blue  horizon,  at  an  infinite  distance  in  the  plain 
country,  inviting  you,  as  it  were,  fron^  the  riot  and  tumult 
roaring  around,  to  pass  through  the  breach,  and  participate 
ci*  the  calm  below.  Here  the  eye  ultimately  oomposes 
itself ;  and  that  way  the  road  happens  actually  ta  jlead.-^ 
You  cross  the  Potomac  above  the  junction^  pass  along  its 
side  through  the  base  of  the  mountain  fbr  thivLc  miles,  its 
tei^ible  precipices  hang^g  in  fragments  over  you,  and 
within  about  20  miles  reach  Fredericktown,  and  the  fine 
country  around  it  This  scene  is  worth  a  voyage  achx)ss 
the  /  tlantic ;  yet  there  are  people  who  have  spent  their 
wh  Je  lives  within  half  a  dozen  of  miles,  and  have  never 
been  to  survey  these  monuments  of  a  war  between  rivers 


andi 

itscc 

"1 

of  fhi 

river^ 

spring 

of  a  K 

into  t 

its  bre 

all  in  j 

botton 

In  1 

very  c 

Madisc 

near  tl 

Iffie  wij 

doah. 

the  asD 

pitch  a 

its  base 

tWfQ^thii 

3QQJee 

a^cendii 

length 

neater  d 

neariy 

i^ault  of 

50vieet 


incnistec 


yiBOINIA. 


231 


against 
tea. 
ses  into 
^$.  that 
tegan  to 
tey  have 
tins,  and 
ey;  that 
it  at  this 
summit 

;p£fftICU- 
heir  dis- 
it  power. 
^Birtthe 
picture  is 
ast  to  the 
lat  is. wild 
1  asunder, 
catch 
theplun 
tumult 
icipatB 
loomposes 
lead.—** 
along  its 
miles,  its 
|ypu,  and 
the  fine 
|ge  aOtoss 
Lt  their 
ive  never 
;n  rivers 


and  mottiylainsy  which  must  have  shaken^  the  earth  itself  to 
its  centre*/* 

**The  only  remarkable  cascade  in  this  country,  is  that 
of  ^  Wng  springs  in  Auguslja.  It  is  a  water  of  James 
river^  where  it  is  called  Jackson's  river,  rising  in  the  warm 
spring,  sfod  flowing  into  that  valley.  About  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  from  its  source,  it  falls  over  a  rock  200  feet, 
into  the  valley  below.  The  sheet  of  water  is  broken  in 
its  breadth  by  the  rock,  in  two  or  three  places,  but  not  at 
all  in  its  height*  Between  the  sheet  and  the  rock  at  the 
bottom  you  may  walk  across  dry f.**  .      ; 

In  the  limestone  country  there  are  many  caverns  of 
very  considerable  extent.  "The  most  noted  is  called 
Madison's  Cave,  and  is  on  the  nonh  side  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
near  tl^  intersection  of  the  Rockingham  and  Augusta 
line  with  tl^?  south  fork  of  the  southern  river  of  Shenan- 
doah. It  is  in  a  hill  of  about  200  feet  perpendicular  height, 
the  ascent  of  which,  on  one  side,  is  so  steep,  that  you  may 
pitch  a  biscuit  from  its  summit  into  the  river  which  washes 
its  base;  The  entrance  of  tne  cave  is,  in  this  side,  about 
two^thinds  of  the  way  up.  .  It  extends  mto  the  earth  about 
3QP  .feet,,  branching  into  subordinate  caverns,  sometimes 
as^nding  a  little,  but  more  generally  descending,  and  at 
length  terminates,  in  two  different  places,  at  basons  of 
latgr  of  unl^own  extent,  and  which  I  should  judge  to  be 
iieariy  on  a  level  with  the  water  of  the  river."  "The 
mult  of  this  cave  b  of  solid  limestone,  from  20  to  40  or 
SOaeet  high,  through  which  the  water  is  continually  per- 
colatingv  This  trickling  down  the  sides  of  the  cave  has 
incrtisted  them  over  in  the  form  of  elegant  drapery ;  and 


*  Jefferson's  Notes. 


t  Ibid. 


239 


ViBOINU. 


dripping  from  the  top  of  the  vault,  gpenemtes  on  thaty  and 
on  U)e  b^  below,  stalactites  of  a  conicaU  fiM,  some  of 
which  have  met  and  formed  massive  columna*," 

-Another  of  these  caves  is  near  the  North  Mppntain  in 
Frederick  county.  **  The  entrance  into  this  is  on  the  top 
of  an  extensive  ridge.  You  deacend.SOor  40  feet  as  into 
a  well,  from  whence  tlie  cave  then  ex;tends»  nearly  horizontal- 
ly,400Yeet  into  the  earth,  preserving  a  bveadth  of  firom 
20  to  50  feet,  and  height  of  from  5  to  12  feet,  ^fter 
entering  this  cave  a  few  feet,  the  mercury,  wj^h  was  in 
the  open  air  at  50',  rose  to  57''t«"     -'•  i 

'«;**  At  the  Panther  gap,  in  the  ridge  which  dlyide^  the 
ivaters  of  the  Cow  and  Calf  Pasture,  is,  mi^  is  caU^d  the 
Biawing  cave.  It  is  in  the  side  of  a  hill,  is  of  about  100 
feet  diameter,  and  emits  constantly  a  current  of  air  of  such, 
force,  as  to  keep  the  weeds  prostrate  for  20  yards  before 
it*  -  It  is  strongest  in  dry  frosty  weather,  and  weakest  in 
loiig  spells  of  rain|."  '^  There  b  another  blowing  c^ve  in 
the  Cumberland  mountain,  about  a  mile  from  the  Cardina 

liiwi.*'  '  . .    \ 

The  Natural  Bridge,  in  this  state,  is  one  of  ,^.  Juost 

sublime  of  natui^'s  works.  >*  It  is  on  the  aacent.«^  MuUi 
which  seems  to  have  be^n  cloven  through  its  ifogth  by 
sqme  great  convulsion.  The  fissure,  ju^t  «t'the,bridg|p,  is, 
by  some  admeasurements^  270  feet^deepj^by^rOthiBi^pnly 
205.  It  is  about  45  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  JK)  at 
the  top;  this  of  course  detetmines  the  lengths,  of  the 
bridge,  and  its  height^  from  the  water.  Its  bi^thjin  the 
middle,,  is  .about  i30  fqet,  but.  more  i^t  th^  end?  >  and  the 
thickness  of  the  mass,  at  the  summit  of  the  arch,  about  40 


cnrth, ' 
due,  V 
itone.^ 
dMsbr 
of  the 
Thoug 

put!  W 

kitknt 

invohm 

parapet, 

abouta 

fit>m  thi 

delightfi 

finotiaR 

ieyare 

and  sprii 

spectatoJ 

nanow, 

above  an< 

▼iewof  1 

ontheol 


which  it 
commodi 
ed  eisew 
passing  i] 
Jame|»  ns 
grist-mill, 
above*." 


Jeffers9n's  Notes*-       t  lb.        \  lb* 


lb. 


VOL.   I. 


TlftOIMIA. 


S33 


Mty  and 
lomeof 


fidci  the 
;aU^dthe 
bout  100 
irof  sucl^ 
^  before 

g  P^ve  in 


iiBit  >  A  part  of'  this  thickness  is  constituted  by  a  coat  of 
earth,  idiich  g;ives  growth  to  many  large  trees.  The  resi- 
due, with  the  hiU  on  both  sides,  is  one  solid  rock  of  lim^- 
Mone.  The  arch  approaches  the  semi-elliptical  form,  but 
die  hvrger  axis  of  the  ellipsis,  which  would  be  the  chord 
of  (he  areh,  is  many  times  longer  than  the  transverse. 
Though  the  sides  of  this  bridge  are  provided  hi  some 
psrti  with  a  parapet  of  fixed  rocks,  yet  few  men  have  reso- 
lution to  walk  to  them,  and  look  over  into  the  abyss.  You 
invohuiitarily  fell  on  your  hands  and  your  feet,  creeps  to  the 
parapet,  and  peep  over  it.  Looking  down  fi'om  this  height 
about  a  minute,  gave  me  a  violent  head-ach.  If  the  view 
Stotn  th^  tcyp  be  painful  and  intolerable,  that  from  below  is 
delightful  in  an  equal  extreme.  It  is  impossible  for  the 
fnodons  arising  from  the  sublime,  to  be  felt  beyond  what 
tliey  are  here :  so  beautiful  an  arch,  so  elevated,  so  light, 
and  springing,  as  it  were,  up  to  heaven !  the  rapture  of  the 
spectator  is  really  indescribable !  '  The  fissure  continuing 
OBROW,  deep,  and  straight,  for  a  considerable  distance 
above  and  below  the  bridge,  opens  a  short  but  very  pleaang 
view  of  the  North  Mountain  on  one  side,  and  Blue  Ridge 
on  the  other,  at  the  distance  each  of  them  of  about  five 
mUes.  Tlus  bridge  is  in  the  county  of  Rockbridge,  to 
which  it  has  given  name,  and  affords  a  public  and  very 
commodious  passage  over  a  valley,  which  cannot  be  cross- 
ed elsewhere  for  a  Considerable  distance.  The  stream 
pasB^ig  under  it  is  called  Cedar  credc.  It  is  a  water  of 
Jame|»  river,  and  sufficient  in  the  driest  seasons  to  turn  a 
grist^miU,  though  its  fountain  is  not  more  than  two  miles 
above*." 


lb. 


VOL.   I. 


•  Jefferson's  Notes. 
2g 


b^S- 


^4 


visomiA. 


/'  There  area  great  variety  of  mmerala  and  mmenl^iijriiigt 
in  the  state.  Iron  is  very  plenty,  and  aeveral  mines  of 
lead  have  been  opened.  Some  copper,  black-leadt  and 
preciious  stones  have  been  found,  and  in  one  inatance  gold 
was  discovered.  Limestone  is  plenty,  and  coal  is  abua. 
dant  at  Richmond,  in  some  places  among  the  mountains, 
and  in  the  western  country.  Of  the  mineral  springa,  the 
warm  and  hot  springs,  and  the  sweet  springs  are  the  most 
lemarkable.  They  are  situated  near  the  aourcea  of  James 
river,  at  the  foot  x>f  the  Allegany  mountains,  about  4S  miles 
apart.  They  are  now  well  known,  and  much  resorted  t<K 
There  are  si^lphur  q>rings  in  several  places  ;  and  on  the 
Kanhaway  river,  67  miles  from  its  outlet,  there  is  a  very 
remarkable  mr  spring.  The  hole  from  which  it  issues  ii 
of  the  capacity  of  30  or  40  gallons,  and  the  current  of  air 
so  strong  **  as  to  give  the  sand  about  its  orifice  the  motion 
which  it  has  in  a  bdling  spring.  On  presenting  a  Ughted 
candle  or  torch  within  18  inches  of  the  hole,  it  flamfs  up 
in  a  column  of  18  inches  in  diameter,  and  4  or  5|  feet  in 
height,  which  sometimes  bums  out  within  20  minutes,  and 
at  other  times  has  been  known  to  continue  burning  fo 
three  days,  toid  to  have  been  left  in  that  state.  The  flame 
is  unsteady,  of  the  denu^  of  burning  ^»irit%  aodvsnielk 
like  burning  pit-coal^."  ^^  There  is  a  similar  aprkg  on 
Sandy  river,  the  flame  of  which  is  a  column  about  IS 
inches  diameter,  and  three  feet  highf." 
^  The  soil  in  the  low  part  of  the  stat«  is  sandy^  except  od 
^  banks  of  the  rivers,  where  it  is  very  richw  Between 
the  head  of  the  tide- waters  and  the  mountains,  it  exhibits 
a  great  variety,  and  a  considerate  portion  is  good.  Amoog 


H- 


*  Jefferson's  Notes. 


t  Ibid. 


^tceM^'in* 

«litelthy^ 

•^'Tha  -fe 
fke  EiigH] 

l^beb^oisttt 

mmc 

^^^kieiiitb 

Kiipceti    « 

fo  1774  V 

dertcc.  Tl 
was  the  fin 
2  senators  a 


VIWUHIA. 


S39 


m  of 
»  and 
egoki 
abuit. 
oiUnni, 

emoU 
Jamci 

Snulct 
rtedto» 
I  on  the 
la  vay 
ssuesb 
It  of  air 
^moticn 
flighted 
anfsup 
S  feet  in 
ites,aiid 
for 

on 
»ut  IS 


i^ 


llMnmim»MlHi>tiiCTC  ift  i  great  deal  of  poor  land,  but  It  ia 
hucmwuid  wMi  rich  valleys.  Beyond  the  mountains  the 
ioil  it  g«inel«Hy  rich  lAid  fertile.  ^^>^ 

««The  cKmate  of  Viiginia  b  very  various,  and  13  subject 
t»  great  And  sudden  changes.  In  the  greater  part  of  the 
country  below  the  head  of  the  tide- waters,  the  summes 
lie  hot  and  sultry,  iind  the  winters  mild.  From  thence  to 
the  fool  of  the  mountains  the  air  is  morcf  pure  and  elastic, 
ihdrboth  summers  and  winters  are  several  degrees  oifi»teiik« 
perature  below  the  low  countiy.  Among  the  mountaina» 
tfie  sumrii^rs  art!  delightful,  though  sometimes  the  hecit  is 
^fry  gfM.  To  ^  westwai^  the  climate  is  temperatfs 
tliesUfhUid^  being  cool^  and  the  winters  wanper  than  on 
Ae  sen  coast.  £xcept  hi  the  neighbourhood  of  stagnaM 
#aters^  b»  the  low  country,  Virginia  has,  up(m  the  whole, 
«healtiiy  CKmate.  i.,     ../^ 

^^ThisDinit  penflanmt  settlement  of  Vfa^nia  was  b)r 
the  Eniglish^  in  mo.  In  1613,  a  Mr.  Rolf  married 
l^bCbhoiltifsV  the  daughter  of  Powhatan,  an  Indian  ehie^ 
Mi  th6'cohhekkMi#aa  the  foundation  for  a  fHendljr 
^yMimeniebetweeh  die  English  settlers  and  die  Indianltf. 
nv  1616^lhe  (iiiiture  of  tobacco  b^citnie  gieneral.  The  siimfc 
j^eol^  Mf  >  Rdtf  1^^  wife  Pdcahonta^  visited  £tiglan(i, 
%hei«  iihb>^«^  ihtrbdUced  at  court,  and  treated  with  gt«itt 
m^^^9i^iM'^  year  following  at  Gittvesend,  tfiiA 
I'  left  a  BCitij  whose  d^so^danl^  sdll  survive  fai  Virgima  Ift 
I6Cl8'did^)^y  amouDited  to  Upwards  of  69,000  p^opte. 
Ini'1774  Vhglnia  appointed  seven  dele^tes  to  the  iAfk 
€6h^W^  ioidtodk  e^  decisive  pat  in  the  war  for  Indlj^- 
dence:^  The  slii^  constitution  was  framed  in  1776,  and 
was  the  first  in  the  United  States.  Virginia  how  sends 
2  senators  and  22  representatives  to  congress. 


4 


H 


m 


vtiienfiAi; 


y*^- 


'The  'ittiile  is  divided  into  an  easteiiri  «nd>«vettm 
trict,  and  90  counties.  In  1800  it  contained  ai  pNdimktticin 
oF^^540,d53 'free  persons,  and  345,796  idaves,]  in  fall 
886,149 ;  being  upwards  of  12  to  the  square  mile*  m 
^1  Th^reare  no  towns  of  any  maierkd  comfequenoem  Vir* 
ginia^  'which  has  been  attributed,  and  pifobal^^  Willi  rea- 
sony  to  the  circumstance  of  the  state  being  so  complete^ 
%teriiected  with  navigable  rivers,  that  a  market  is  bcought 
dmtoit  to  every  mim's  door»  and  diey  have  no  inducement 
to  establish  large  cities.  '^m  o 

^  Norfolk  is  the  largest  town,  and  the  most  commerciij 
in  the  Atate.  It  contained,  by  the  census  of  IQQO,  nearly 
•74XX)  inhabitants^  which  have  since  greatly  encreasedf. 
it  is  a  place  of  very  extended  commerce^  principally  i^ 
^(tur  and  tobacco,  and  its  commeroe*  and  poptilatioi^  will 
probably  continue  to  encrease,  for  a  Iqng  period;  A4^. 
'^flbisaii  remarks,  in  his  Notes,  ''that  it  will  piqbabt^F'be 
^emporium  for  all  the  trade  of  theChes^ipealinb^  and 
.Its  I  waters,  and  a  canal  of  8  or,  10  milc^iwill  fbrpgdoi  itffil 
^t  of  the  Albemarle  sound  and  it9  lyater^"  Tiiersam^ 
sentiment  was  expressed  in  conversation,  with  mes,  vBujtiit 
%<to  lie  observed,  that  the  Chesapqs^  bay  and; itui waters 
^|a?e  navigable  along  way  into  the  inti^ar  c^liiiefCQtnitryyin 
jf^Qfisequencet^  wl|ich^  probably  no  angle  tjc»viif  oTf  ff^tp  will 
r^'tfaie  emporium  for  o/^  the  trade,  it  fW  ^^^^^dediamo^g 
jfViany.  We  accordingly  find  numerous,  towns.,  upon  those 
'ifwaters,  many  of  which  have  already  been  notiofd,  an^^  ti|s 
following  may  be  added.^  i  f?<^r\r       ■  [     ; 

tll^  jpja  IRappabannoc,  Urbanna,  Port  Royal,  F^dmputli^frA 


'l^^f^rm-H^ 


FUm'-i'.'V. .  r'i?'N^TTC^\;:n'U(^-)\ 


•'1)11  V^  vrt  *  By  the  c<^8U9  of  IftlOi  they 


^r\'4h'j^^^i' 


*,tO»W$/^>|j**^f?, 


•    » 


m0m§ 

?  >Qn  \ 

never.  :>. 
Qit'Jc 
Sufiblk, 
ville^ 

r.  There 

ihe^te. 

more  tha 

i?j>'  The'.-s 

mads,  bu 

The-cana 

ler^^th 

it  is  16  J] 

pose.    C 

Ihe'navig 

1^  buikl 
arphHpctu 
Iwd?  Bi 
^sktemble 
^wouldnot 
aEFangpeme 
tfaeipiemb 
of  b^ban 

^sometinies 
unknown, 
ficientlyd] 
ingoneof 
ofaprofcs 
Jnent,perh 


iVif. 
pktdy 
oemeot 

,  nearly 
«Bsed#. 

ion  wiU 
%  Mf* 

I  (Waters 
•Witty*  jn 


t.On  York  riverand  its  iivaters,  York,  Newcastle,  Ha^ 

ROver.  -.v^ 

On  Jianes  river  and  its  waters,, PortsmQuth,HaiB{xtion, 

Sttfiolk)  Smithfidd,  Williamsburg,  Manchester,  Charlpttes- 

i ,,  TJierQ  is  na  very  important  town  in  the  western  part  of 
ihe  f^le.  WheeUngi  on  the  Ohio,  wiV<prol^ly;ii^l9:£iliP 
more  than  any  other.  '^*w^-:-'''^v>^> ''^^d4',?*jc^'  ," 

ifi.  The  state  has  of  .late  been  considerably  improved^  by 
roads,  but  in  that  branch, much  yet  remains  totbefdon^.  ' 
The  canal  contemplated  by  Mn  Jefferson  between  the  wa- , 
lers^^  the  Chesapeak  and  Albemarle  sound  has  been  cilfc. 
it  is  l6F.miles  in  length,  and  answers  a  most  valuable  pur:!' 
pose.    Conudi^able  improvements  have  been  made  upopi 
the*  navigi^ion  of  the  Shenandoah  river;  and  thei^  are  se* 
^vua^  veiiy  important  roads  and  canals  projected^    As  ti|o 
i^  l^ildings,  Mr.  Jefoson  remarks,  V  The  genius  'iK* 
architecture  seems  to  have  shed  its  maledictions  over;  tins 
Ivnd*  ^  Buildii|gs<  are  often  erected  by  individuals  at  con;- 
rsidembk  expence.    To  ^ve  these;  symmetry  and  taste 
woiUd^ not  increase  their  cdst*    It  would  only  change; the 
anangpement  of  the  materials,  and  form  the  combination  of 
^die^pendsers.    This  would  often  costless  than  the  burden 
of  b^barous  ornaments  with  which  these  buildings  ire 
^sometimes  charged-    But  the  first  principles  of  the  art  are 
unknown,  and  there  exists  scarcely  a  model  among  us  st^f- 
ficiently  chaste  to  give  an  idea  of  them.    Architecture  be- 
ing one  of  the  fine  arts,  and,  as  such,  within  the  department 
of  a  professor  of  the,  college,  according  to  tl^  new  armnge- 
^ment,  perhaps  a  spark  may  M  on  some  young  subjects  of 


miM  miii\ym  up  thdi*  goiiuiir litt  ff<satie«'^  t«. 

ft^rmatkn  in  this  etegdnt  and  usdui  an."  "Great  inaprovew 
lA^ntft  liave'  donbtiess^ieen  made  siiiee  the  ytat  1783^  par- 
ticularly  in  the  towns;  but  in  the  country  the  houses  arg 
nid^  C(im|x>sed  6f  wood,  and'few  of  them^hat  I  saw 
hEtid>^d#ier  syiRHM^  bf  design^  or  elegance  tS  execution 
to^itcontmend  thent;'^  Upon  the  whole,  on^thii 'branch, 
the  Vir^nians  seem'to  be  iar  behind  theo-  northern  neigh- 
boinnii  and  th^ire  is  stiil  mu^h  rooiii  for  tlie  exercise  of 
idrcHlte(!itural  genius. 

^  The  great  ma^^  ^  th6  population  in  Vfrginia  are  far- 
mersi  cMPi  te  they  are  tehned  hc*ei  planters.  The  princi* 
pal  bmrithes  of  agrieulture  for  ex^rtation,  are  wheat  and 
ft^bfticco;  and  the  Mma  produce  in  plenty,  Indian  corti,  rye, 
bftrtey,  buckwheat,  8cc  Hemp  and  flax  ar6  abundant,  and 
ili^^iider^ble  quantities  of  cotton  are  raised  in  the  ^utherA 
pmi  Wth&  Btate.  Indigo  is  cultivated  with  suceess,  and 
fl^e silk- worm  is  a  native  of  the  country,  #iough  Aot  miich 
attended  to.  The  fields  likewise  produce  pbtatoie^^  both 
c^t^eet  and  cotomon^  turnips,  parsnips,  carrots,  pun^tpkint, 
and  ground  nuts;  iind  of  grasses,  there  are  clovers,  red, 
#hite,  and  yellow,  timothy,  ray,  greensward,  blue  girass, 
aend  crab  grass. 

b^ffhe  orchards  abound  in  fruits,  appl^,  pears,  p^ch^^ 
^inces,  cherries,  nectarines,  apricots,  almonds,  and  pkim^. 
**'  The  domestic  animals  thrive  well,  hlorses,  cows,  sheej^) 
hogs,  poultry ;  atd  there  is  a  great  variety  of  wild  game. 
^'  The  manufactures  of  the  state  are  mostly  of  the  dbmes- 
tic  kind.  I  have  not  heard  of  any  e^^lished  upon  a  large 
scale.  Hence  the  quantity  imported  annually  from  Bri- 
tain must  be  immense.  The  principal  port  in  the  state 
being  Norfolk,  it  carries  on  a  vigorows  trade  with  Europe, 


•> 


M 


yinmvUf 


939 


fSdvcw 
I,  par- 
is  ari 
I  saw 
eutkm 
ranch, 
heigh- 
;iae  of 

ii«  far- 
princh 
*At  and 

rti,  ry^y 
ifit,  and 
DiHheit 
^BS,  and 
t  much 
tit^  both 
ftpkint, 
;rs,  fto% 
V  grass, 


gafne. 
Idbmes- 
alarge 
Bri- 

state 


in^tlie  MfplDS  pfodmie  of  the  state,  m^  imports  laiigcljr 
of  dry?g9p4&;  but  a  great  poitioa  ^  the  trade  of  the  stato 
is  earned  cm  through  the  medium  df  other  places,  pardcuk 
bdy  New  York.  '; 

The  expartsof  the  state,  in  1805,  amounted  to  5|606,62G| 
dollars^  <^  wluoh  the  gieater  part  was  domestic  produce } 
but  as  no  pait  of  the  produce  sent  to  other  states  is  inckid- 
ed  in  l;he  custom-house  returns,  I  should  be  inclined  to  esti- 
male  the  surplus  produce  at  nearly  double  that  amount, 
and  ^ir  imports,  principally  of  manu&ctures,  at  neaify  aa 
much)  of  which  probably  one  half  is  from  Britaki. 

The  Kotes  on  Virginia  contain  ample  ii^ormation  cm 
the  state  of  socie^,  Mr.  Jefferson  considers  that  it  is  ma- 
tsrialiy  afi^ted  by  the  existence  of  slavery.  "  There  must ' 
doubtless,''  says  he,  "be  an  unhappy  influence  on  the 
maimers  of  our  people  hff  t^e  existence  of  slavery  among 
as.  The  whole  ccnnmerce  between  master  and  slave  is  a 
perpetual  exercise  of  the  most  boisterous  passions,  the 
most  unreniitting  despotism  on  tiie  one  part,  and  d^rad« 
iag  submissions  on  the  other.  Our  children  see  this,  an4 
learn  to  imitate  it;  for  man  is  an  imitative  animal.  Thw 
quali^  is  the  germ  of  all  education  in  him;  from  his  cra- 
dle to  his  grave,  he  is  learning  to  do  what  he  sees  othecs 
do.  If  a  parent  could  iind  no  motive,  either  in  his  philan* 
throphy  or  his  self-love,  for  restraining  t'le  intemperance 
of  passions  towards  his  ^ve,  it  should  always  be  a  suffi- 
cient one  that  his  child  is  present.  But  generally  it  is  not 
sufficient.  The  parent  storms,  the  child  looks  on,  catchei^ 
the  lineaments  of  wrath,  puts  on  the  same  airs  in  the  circle 
of  smaller  slaves,  gives  a  loose  to  the  worst  of  passions^ 
and  thus  nursed,  educated,  and  exercised  in  tyranny,  can- 
PC*  b^t,  be  stam^d;  by^it  with  5>dious  jeculifffities.    The 


240 


VlltOfNIA. 


man  must' b^  a  prodigy  who  can  retain  his  manners  ^ind 
morals  undepmved  by  such  circumsteuioesv  And  with 
what  execration  should  the  statesman  be  loaded,  who,  per. 
mitting  one  half  of  the  citizens  thus  to  trample  on  the 
rights  of  the  other,  transforms  those  into  despots,  and  these 
into  enemies,  destroys  the  morris  of  the  one  part,  and  the 
amor  patria  of  the  other.  For  if  a  slave  can  have  a  coun- 
try in  this  world,  it  must  be  any  other  in  prefei^nee  to 
that  inivhich  he  is  bom  to  live  and  labour  for  another;  in 
whiSh  he  must  lock  up  the  faculties  of  his  nstfure,  contri. 
btite  as  far  as  depends  on  his  individual  endeavours  to  the 
enslavement  of  the  human  race,  or  entail  his  own  misera. 
ble  condition  on  the  endless  generations  proceeding  ftom 
Mm.  With  the  morals  Of  the  people  their  industry  also 
is  destroyed.  For,  in  a  warm  climate,  no  man  will  labour 
for  himself  who  cdn  make  another  labour  for  him.  This 
is  so  true,  that  of  the  proprietc^s  of  slaves  a  very  small  pro- 
portion, indeed  are  ever  seen  tO  labour.  And  can  the 
liberties  of  a  nation  be  thought  secure  when  we  have  re- 
y  thoved  their  only  firm  basis,  a  conviction  in  the  minds  of 
the  people  that  these  liberties  are  the  gift  of  God?  that 
they  are  not  to  be  violated  but  with  his  wrath?  Indeed  I 
tremble  for  my  country  when  I  reflect  that  God  is  just; 
th£tt  hi^  justice  cannot  sleep  forever;  that  considering  num- 
bers, nature,  and  natural  means  only,  a  revolution  of  the 
wheel  of  fortune,  and  exchange  of  situation,,  is  among  pos- 
sible events;  that  it  may  become  probable  Ify  supernatural 
interference!  The  Almighty- has  no  attribute  that  can 
take  side  with  us  in  such  a  contest.-^But  it  is  impossible 
to  be  temperate,  and  to  pursue  this  subject  through  the  va- 
rious considerations  of  policy,  of  morale,  of  history  natural 
and  civil.     We  must  be  contented  to  hope  they  will  force 


their -w 
percept 
spirit  oi 
from  th 
prepann 

cipaiion, 

to  be  wi 

extirpati 

Thi»  ( 

i»g,  doet 
it  is  prot 
among  h 
siderable 
nia  has  1 
and  faasy 
the  quest] 
odious^ 
that  the  in 
was  a  par 
Qot  unfbr 
probable  J 
person,  wi 
expressed 
lie  morals, 
But  it  exij 
civil  sQcie 
branch  of 
a  work  of 
.  There  a 
College  of 
There  are, 
^  tl]|pi« 

VOi.   I, 


T4KGIKIA# 


241 


tbeir  wi^f  i!;»tQ  evecy  one'4  mind.  I  lliink  a  change  alre^dji; 
peroeptiblje,  sinqe  the  origin  of  tl|e  present  xeyolution.  The 
spirit  of  .tli9  master  is  abating  i  that,  of  the  slave  rising 
i»m  the  dust^, Ilia  condition,  mollifying,  the  way,  I  hope, 
preparing,  under«  the  auspices  of  Heaven,  for  a  total  eman« 
cipatiQny  and  that  this  is  disposed,  in  the  order  of  events^, 
tQ  be  with  the  consent  of  the  masters,  rather  tii^an  by  their 
extirpation.-' 

Thi»  elegant  extract^  which  I  could  not  think  of  abridge 
iog,  does  honour  to  the  head  and  heart  of  its  author ;  and 
it  is  probable,^  v#rom  the  great  reputation  which  he  hdds 
among  his  countrymen,  tliat  it  may  have  produced  a  con- 
siderable effect  in  assuaging  the  evils  of  slavery,  .  Virgin 
nia  haa  long  since  prohibited  the  importation  of  slaves* 
and  has,  by  her  members  in  congress,  always  supported 
the  question  for  a  total  prohibition  of  that  branch,  the  most 
odious  feature  jin  it.  And  it  is  but  justice  here  to  observe^ 
that  tjie  introduction  of  slavery  in  this,  and  in  the  other  atateS| 
wasa parAqfthepohpyofthei^o'LomA-L  syste^.  Hadit 
Opt  unfortunately  taken  place  before  the  revolution)  it  is 
probable  it  never  would  liave  taken  place ;  for  almost  evor)^ 
person,  with  whom  I  have  conversec^  on  the  subject,  have 
expressed  ^ir  opinion,  that  it  is  not  only  hurtfijd  jbo  pub- 
lic morals,  but  contrary  to  fvery  maxim  of  sound  policy,; 
But  it  exists,  it  Js  incoipcrated  with  the  whole  system  9f 
dvil  society  f  itj  influence  has  extended  through  every 
bKinch  of  domestic  tscpnomy ;  and  to  do  it  away  must  b^ 
a  work  of  time.  ,^ 

V  There  are  two  colleges  in  the  state;  one  of  them,  the 
CoUege  of  William  and  Mary,  very  liberally  endowed. 
There  are  sevend  academies,  and  schools  in  each  county; 
and  dii^re  ^  j^uinerpuf  teachers^  in  private  families,  ^s 

VOJ..   I.  2   H 


242 


viRenrtA. 


A.;. 


tutors:  The  itidiiis,  fti  short,  for  educating  thfe'Di^ealthy 
are  ample,  ^d  Extensively  applied;  but  the*  system  seems 
to  be  defective,  so  *£ir  as  the  mass  of  the  pe&ph  are  eon- 
cerrlecl,  and  that  important  branch  deserves  the  early  at- 
tentidii  of  an  enlightened  legislature. 
'^  At  the  period  <rf^  the  revokitibn,  Virgmia  being  the  first 
fete  that  dreW  up  a  new  constitution,  it  was  necessarily 
crude  and  undigested ;  and  much  of  the  oM  leaven  re- 
maihed.  The  subject  of  religion,  in  particular,  was  not 
placed  on  tiiat  footing  of  perfect  freedbm  which  is  the 
natifl^  heritage  of  mart,  the  gift  of  Nature's  God*,  and 
the  subject  aiTords  Mr.  Jefferson  scope  for  the  following  re- 
marks :  "  By  otir  act  of  assembly  of  1705,  c.  SO,  if  a  person, 
brought  up  in  the  clu'isliah  religion,  denies  the  being  of  a 
Gbd^  or  the  Trinity,  or  asserts  there  are  more  Gods  than 
one,  or  denies  the  christian  religion  to  be  true,  or  the 
Scriptures  to  be  of  divine  authority,  he  is  punishable  for 
the  first  offence  by  incapacity  to  hold  any  office  or  em- 
■ployment,  ecclesiaistical,  civil,  or  military ;  on  the  second, 
by  disability  to  sue,  to  take  any  gift  or  fegacy,  to  be 
guardian,,  executor,  or  administrator,  and  by  three  yea.^ 
imprisonment  without  bail.  A  fether's  right  to  thecus- 
tody  of  his  own  children  being  founded,  in  law,  on  his 
right  oi  gudrdianshipi  this  being  taken  away,  they  may,  of 
course,  be  severed  from  him,  and  put,  by  the  authority  of 
a  court,  into  more  orthodox  hands.  This  is  a  summary 
view  of  that  religious  slavery,  under  wluch  a  people  have 
been  willing  to  remain,  who  have  lavished  cheir  lives  and 
fortunes  for  the  establishment  of  civil  ficedom.  The  error 
seems  not  sufficiently  eradicated,  that  the  operations  of  die 
mind,  as  well  as  the  acts  of  the  body,  are  subject  to  the 
coercion  of  the  laws.    But  our  rulers  can  have  authorky 


over  sti 

them. 

could  n( 

God. 

such  act 

no  injus 

Gods,  <H 

my  leg. 

cannot  b 

him.    C 

a  hypocri 

may  ,^x  J 

them..    ] 

agents  ag 

port  the,  t 

tribunal,,,^ 

ral  enemi( 

mauvgove 

never  hav 

indulged  i 

christianit: 

restrained 

and  new  c 

scribe  to  i 

in  such  kc 

the  emetic 

tatoe  as  an 

We,  too,  \ 

sent  to  the 

sphere. 

a  trencher, 

This  error. 


'J 


f  -        MMIV'  ♦ 


VIRGINIA. 


5243 


wealthy 

seems 

reton- 

irly  at- 

:he  first 
essarily 
iven  re- 
»ras  not 
1  is  the 
dV  and 
ivingre- 
i  person, 
ing  of  a 
[xls  tl:Kin 
,  or  the 
iable  for 
5  or  em- 
;  second, 
r,  to  be 
ee  yea»^ 
the'  cits- 
on  his 
may,  of 
hority  of 
■ummary 
iple  have 
lives  and 
'he  error 
msofthe 
:t  to  the 
lUthorky 


over  such  natural  rights  only  as  we  have  submittcxl  ftp 
th^.  ^The  rights  of  coiiscience  we  never  subnutted,  we 
could  not  submh/  We  are  answerable  for  them,  to  our 
God.  The  legitUnate  powers  of  government  extend  to 
such  acts  only  as  are  injurious  to>  others..  But  it  does  me 
uo  iiiiustict  for  my  neighbour  to  say>  there  are  twenty 
Gods,  or  no  God.  It  neither  picks  my  pocket,  nor  breaks 
my  leg.  >  If  it  be  said,  his  testimony  in  ^  court  of  justice 
cannot  be  relied  on,  reject  it  then,  apid  be  the  stigniapn 
him*  Constraint  may  make  him  worse,  by.  making  him 
a  hypocrite ;  but  it  will  never  make  lum  a  truer  man.  ,  |t 
may.,^x  him  obstinately  in  his  errors,  but  will  not  cure 
them.  Reason  and  free  inquiry  are  the  only  effectual 
agents  against  error.  Give  a  loose  to  them,  they  will  sup*' 
port  the,  true  religion,  by  bringing  eveiy  false  one  to  their 
tribunal,  to  the  test  of  investigation.  They  are  the  natu- 
ral enemies  of  error,  and  of  error  only^  Had  not  tlj^e  Ro- 
man, government  permitted  free  inquiry,  Christianity  could 
never  hav^  been  introduced^  .  Had  not  free  inquiry,  be^ 
indulged  at  the  era  of  the  refbr^tion,  the  corruptions,  of 
christiani|;y  could  not  have  beten  purged  away^  If  it  be 
restnuned  now,  the  present  corruptions,  will  be  protected,' 
and  new  ones  epcouraged.  Was  the  government  to  pre- 
scribe to  us  our  medicine  and  diet,  our  bodies  would  be 
m  such  keeping  as  our  souls  are  now.  Thus,  in  France, 
the  emetic  was  once  forbidden  as  a  medicuie,  and  the  po- 
tatoe  as  an  article  of  food.  Government  is  just  as  infalli- 
ble, too,  when  it  fixes  systems  in  phy^cs.  G^ileo*  was 
sent  to  the  inquisition  for  affirming,  tlmt  the  earth  was  a 
sphere.  The  government  had  declared  it  to  be  as  fiat  as 
a  trencher,  and  Galileo  was  obliged  to  abjure  his  error. 
This  error,  however,  at  length  prevailed ;   the  earth  be- 


V 


9M 


VIROlKfA. 


Came  a  glob^;^and  D^scaites  declared,  it  wMrled  round 
its  axb  by  a  vortex.  '  The  govemmefit  in  winch  he  lived 
tvas  wis^  enbtigh  to  see  that  tins  was  no  questkxi  of  civil 
jurisdicticn,  or  we  should  all  Mve  been  involted  by  an. 
thority  in  vortices.-  In  feet,  the  vortices  have  been  ex. 
plodsd,  and  the  Newtonian  principle  of  gravitation  is  now 
more  firmly  established,  on  the  basis  of  reason,  than  it 
would  be  were  the  government  to  step  in,  and  meke  it  ah 
article  of  necessary  fiiith.  Reason  and  experiment  have 
beeh  indulged^  and  error  has  fled  before  them^  It  is  error 
i^ne  Which  needs  the  support  oi  government.  Truth  can 
stand  hy  itseff.  Subject  opmion  to  coercion,  whom  will 
yoii  m«dte  your  inquisitors  ?  FalliUemen;  men  governed 
hy  bad  passions^  by  private  as  well  as  public  reasons. 
And  Wliy  subject  it  to  coercion?  To  produce  uniformity. 
But  is  uniformity  of  (pinion  desirable?  No  more  than  the 
fece  and  stature.  Introduce  the  bedof  Procrustes  then, 
and,  as  there  is  danger  that  the  large  man  may  beat  the 
fimall,  make  us  all  of  a  size,  by  lopping  the  former,  and 
stretching  the  latter.  Difierence  of  opinion  is  advantage^^ 
ous  in  rdi^on.  The  sevCr^  sects  perform  the^.  office  of  a^ 
ffCTWor  iwor«wj  over  each  other.  Is  uniformly  attainable? 
Millions  of  innocent  men,  women,  and  children,  since  the 
introduction  of  Christianity,  have  been  burnt,  tortured, 
fined,  imprisoned.  Yet  we  have  not  advanced  one  inch 
towards  uniformity.  What  has  been  the  eflfect  of  coer- 
cion  ?  To  make  one  half  of  the  world  fools,  and  the  other 
hypocrites;  to  support  roguery  and  error  all  over  the 
earth.  Let  us  reflect  that  it  is  inliabited  by  a  th(Aisand 
millions  of  people ;  that  they  profess  probably  a  thousand 
different  sy^stems  of  religion ;  )that  our's  is  but  one  of  that 
^ousand ;  that,  if  there  be  bnt  one  right,  and  ours  that 


•»> 


vtioniu. 


J 


5245 


round 
I  lived 
f  civil 
by  au. 
en  ex- 
IB  now 
than  it 
^e  it  ah 
»t  have 
is  error 
uth  can 
yea  will 
ovemed 
reasons. 


one,  we  would  wish  to  see  nine  hundred  and  ninety-nine'^ 
•wandering  sects  gathered  into  the  fold  of  truth.  But 
against  such  a  majority^  we  cannot  effect  this  by  foroei 
Reason  and  persuasion  are  the  only  practicable  instruments^ 
To  niabs  way  for  these,  free  inquiry  must  be  indulged^ 
and  how  can  we  wish  others  to  indulge  it^  while  we  re*' 
fuse  it  ourselves.  But  every  state,  says  an  inquisitor,  has 
established  some  religion.  No  two,  say  I,  have  established 
the  same.  Is  this  a  proof  of  the  in&llibility  of  establish^ 
ments?  Our  sister  states  of  Pennsylvania  and  New  York> 
however,  have  long  subsisted  without  any  establishment 
at  alU  The  experiment  w^as  new  and  doubtful  when  they 
made  it.  It  has  answered  beyopd  conccptionw'  They  flou- 
rish infinitely.  Religion  is  weU  supported;  of  various 
kinds,  indeed,  but  all  good  enough;  aU  sufficient  to  pie- 
serve  peace  and  order.  Or,  if  a  sect  arises,  whose  tenets 
would  subvert  morals,  good  sense  has  £iir  play,  and 
reasons  and  laughs  it  out  of  doors,  without  suffering  the 
state  to  be  troubled  wilh  it.  They  do  not  hang  mcsre 
malefactOTs  than  vi«  do*  They  are  not  more  disturbed 
with  religious  dissentions.  On  the  contr^^  their  har« 
numy  is  imparalleled,  ^d  can  be  ascribed  to  Nothing  but 
thdr  unbounded  tolerance,  because  there  is  no  other  cir? 
cumstance  in  which  they  di£fer  from  every  other  nation  on 
earth.  They  hafve  made  the  happy  discovery,  ^ksaX  the  way 
to  silence  religious  <^sputes  is  to  take  no  notice  of  them. 
Let  us,  too,  give  this  experiment  fair  play,  and  get  rid, 
while  "we  may,  of  these  tyrannical  laws.'* 

The  experiment  has  been  tried,  and  has  siicceeded.-^-^ 
An  act  passed  the  "Virginia  Assembly,  in  the  beginning 
of  1786,  in  which  it  is  declared,  that,  being  "  well  awar^ 
that^p^ghty  God  hath  created  the  n^ind  free ;   thiit  aU 


* 


'  # 


sue 


VIRGINIA^ 


attempts  to  influence  it  by  temporal  punislimtnts  or  bur. 
thens,  or  by  civil  incapacitations,  tend  only  to  be^t  habits 
of  hypocrisy  and  meanness,  and  are  a  departure  from  the 
plan  ,Qf  the  Holy  Author  of  our  religion,  who,  being  Lord 
over  both  body  and  mind,  yet  chose  not  to  prc^iagate  it 
by  coercions  in  either,  &c. — ^Be  it  therefore  enacted  by 
the  General  Assembly,  That  no  man  shall  be  compelled 
to  frequent  or  support,  any  religious  worship,  place,  or 
ministry  whatsoever,  nor  shall  be  enforced*  restrained, 
molested,  or  burthened  in  his  body  or  goods,  nor  shall 
otherwise  suffer  on  account  of  his  religious  opinions  or 
belief;  but  tluit  all  n^en  shall  be  free,  to  profess,  and  by 
arguments  to  maintain,  their  opinions  in  matters  o(  reli- 
gion, and  that  the  same  shall  in  no  wise  diminish,  enlarge, 
or  affect  thcik  civil  capacities.". 

The  following  are  the  outlines  of  the  form  of  state  go- 
vernment. 

*' The  executive  powers  are  lodged  in  the  hands  of  a 
governor,  chosen  annually,  and  incapable  of  acting  mon: 
than  three  years  in  seven.  Ht  is  assisted  by  a  council  of 
eight  members.  The  judiciary,  powers  ate  divided  among 
several  courts.  Legislation  is  exercised  by  two  houses  of 
assembly,  die  one  called  the  House  of  Delegates,  compos- 
ed of  two  members  firom  each  county,  chosen  annually, 
by  the  citizens  possessing  an  estate  for  life  in  100  acres 
of  uninhabited  land,  or  25  acres  with  a  house  and  lot  on 
it,  or  a  hous^  and  lot  in  some  town.  The  other,  called 
the  Senate,  consisting  of  24  members,  chosen  quadrennially 
by  the  same  electors,  who,  for  this  purpose,  are  distributed 
into  24  districts.  .The  concurrence  of  both  houses  is  ne- 
cessary to  the  pass^  of  a  law.  They  have  the  appoint- 
ment of  the  governor  and  council,  the  judges  of  theidupo 


vnidiNiA. 


347 


«  bur* 
habits 
Dm  the 
g  Lord 
igate  it 
:tedby 
Dpelled 
lace;,  or 
htrained, 
lor  shall 
uons  or 
and  by 
q(  reli- 
enlarge, 

st^tego- 


not  courts,'  auditorft^  attorney-general,  treasurer,  register 
of  the  land-oiRce,  and  delegates  to  congress."^     - 

I  have  bestowed  considerable  pains  to  milled  in3rse1f 
master  of  the  geography  and  political  importance  of  this 
state,  beciiuse,  from  its  situation  and  extent,  it  must  ne- 
cessarily have  a  great  influence  on  the  body  politic  of  tht 
United  States.  It  is  the  largest  state  in  the  Union,  and 
has  given  tiVo  presidents,  out  of  three,  to  the  United 
States.  It  is  geographically  central,  and,  from  its  posi- 
tion, must  necessarily  include,  or  be  contiguous  to,  the 
seat  of  the  general  government,  while  the  states  remain  in 
their  present  united  form.  Perhaps,  too,  it  may  be  the 
best  situation  for  forming  a  general  theory  of  the  climate 
of  the  United  States,  and  probably  Monticello,  the  seat  of 
Mr.  Jefferson,  may  be  one  of  the  best  positions  in  Virgi- 
nia for  making  experiments,  and  contrasting  them  with 
those  made  in  other  places;  and  Mr.  Jefferson 'has  in  a 
very  laudable  manner  availed  himself  of  this  advantage. 

As  Mr.  Jefferson's  Notes  are  well  known,  and  may  be 
considered  as  containing  authentic  information  on  many 
important  topics  relative  to  this  his  native  state,  I  have 
indulged  myself  by  making  copious  extracts  on  the  par* 
ticular  subjects  to  which  they  had  reference ;  and  I  shall 
now  close  this  article  by  a  few  more  miscellaneous  sub-^  > 
j^cts,  which  I  consider  not  only  as  valuable  in  them- 
selves, but  very  important  as  containing  Mr.  Jefferson's 
opinions  On  several  pomts  of  political  economy* 


'V   .,*'' 


appoint- 
iupe^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^* 


1.0  ^B£  m 

itt  lU   12.2 

IS  itt  ^ 

II         £   LS    12.0 


liiiUi^U4 


Fliotographic 
^Sciences 
GarporatiGn 


4^ 


^   4S  \  WiiS 


23  WIST  MAM  STROT 

WNSTn,N.Y.  USM 

(716)  •72-4503 


^4^^^^^^'  ^ 
^\^ 


'4^ 


0 


M8> 


The  flowing  extracts  are  from  the  chraft  of «  funda- 
ment&l  (Constitution  for  the  commonweaHh  of  >Vif|g^nia. 
0^.  <«  rpi^  ,ggji^  gigj^.  g},^!  for  ^y^  hereafter  be '  govtmed  as 

1l  oomtinioiiiireaHb*     ♦ 

,,.  u  ji^  power  of  government  shaU  be  divided  mto  three 
distuict  departments,  each  of  them  to  be  confided  to  a 
separate  body  of  niagistnicy"-^]egislative— ^udiciaiy—- and 
execnttve.  a»*^ 

V  <«  The  kgidatwe  shall  consist  of  two  branches,  die  one 
to  be  called  the  house  of  delegates,  the  other  die  senate*- 
and  bodi  the  general  assembly. 
■'  *^  The  ddegates  to  bo  elected  annually ;  the  Senators 
bieniiEtUy,  and  one  half  to  vacate  their  seats  each  year, 

*' Ail  free  male  dtizens,  of  full  age,  and  sane  mind, 
wh»forone  year  before  shall  liave  been  vesideatia  the 
county,  or  shall  through  the  wh<^  of  that  time  have  pos- 
sessed dierdn  real^  prc^ierty  of  the  value  of  ,  or  shall 
for  the  same  time  have  been^^  enrolled  in  the  militiaiandno 
Other^'  isliSH  have  a  right  to  vote  fisr  ddegates  lor  the  said 
coiiiilty^i«id£p«r  senatorial  dectm  fir  the  distiie^  They 
shidl'give  their  irotes  personally,  and  ^mvd  votf.      '  s 

«  The  executive  power  shall  be-ocercisedbya^av^r- 
lAw*,  who  shall  be  d^osen  by  joint  ballot  of  bothhousesof 
assembly,  and  when  diosen  shaU  remain  m  office  five 
years,  and  be  ineligible  a  second  time. 
''""'  ^*  A  i^oiincil  of  state  shall  be  chosen%y  joint  bafiot  of  | 
both  houses  of  assembly,  who  shall  hold  their  offices  seiien 
years,  and  be  ineligible  a  second  time — ^Their  duty  shall 
be  to  attend  and  advise  the  gHHior.    They  shall  annually 


chuse 
of  die 
vacani 
cTcisB. 

".1! 
andsu 
proper 
wit,  a  4 
aodahi 
tobe  0 

"Th 
icom^f  e 

law,  am 

which  s 

"ftii 
tbaniial; 
andpiub 

-  -■"  ■  ^^ji 


/ 


agg 
of  numf] 

of  formii 

by  comn 
it|j|»ecif 
thanthoa 
tionof  it 

VOL,    I 


I.  * 

^ 


mfunda- 

Mvned  as 

m^f^-. . 

into  three 
&ded  toa 

ifu^— and 

St,  the  one 
>  senate— 

le  densitoR 
I  year, 
ane  mind, 
lent'  in  the 
liave  pos- 
ter shall 
tiftjandno 
srte  said 
e^    They 

y  #  gaver- 
ilKOuaeaof 
office  live 

itbaHotorl 

ices  seven 

|dut]^  8»lll 

annuity 


1^: 


249 


chuse  tLprewkntf  ,who  s^l  preside  in  council  in  absence 
of  the  governor,  and^Hfhc^  in  casQiiff  his  offioe  becoming 
vacant  by  death,  or  otherwise,  shall  have  authority  tp  ex^, 
crcise.  aU  his  functions), , till  a  new  qippi^itmenl  be  made,  ^v 

*y  The  juthckuy^  ^hall  be  exercised ,  by  county  GOurt% 
and  such  Other  infepor  pourts  as  the  legisli^ure  shall  think 
proper  to  continue  or  to  erect ;  by  three  superior  court%  to 
witf  a  €9urt  jof  tidmiralty,  a  general  court  of  cpmn^m  law, 
wd  a  high  cQuii^.of  chancery ;  an4  by  one  supreme  comnt, 
to  be  CfiUipd  the  court  of  appeals.  ,  ,y 

*'The  governor,  two  counsellors  of  state,  and  a  judge 
from^'  eaph  of  wthe  ^^upca^or  cou^^^^  chancery,  coipmon 
law^  j|nd  ^miraltyy  iShall  be  ^  cpuncil  to ,  i«yise  all  bills 
which  shall  have  passed  both  houses  of  iussenibly. 
^.  *MIheji|ilitary  sha)l  be  subor()ifiate  to  the  civil  power. 

" luting  presses  s(iall  be  sjubject  to  np, other  restraint 
toiliabteneps  |o  legal  prosecution^  for  &lse  facts  printed 
and  publiiih«!d-" 


./■». 


*\  Out  aie  Jfasi»;»o  inconvernqnce*.^  be,,t^  into.^ 
seale  againsl^the  Advantage  expected. fton^  a,multipli<a^oa 
of  numbers*  by  the  importatjm  of,  fgr^ign^  ?  1%  is  for 
tl>e.hPiiq[Hne8S  pf : those  uni^  ia  society  to, hwrnoiuze  as 
jDUKBh  at  possible  in  matters,  whipb  Ihey  must  of  n^cesw^ 
trwuNKfl&^gethjBr,  Civil  government  bdng  the  sole  object 
of  formii^  societies,  its  actmini^tration  must  be  co^ucted 
by  coQiiXU)^  conftpt  E^^  i^peciesof  govec^ipent  hai 
it|  Jigecific  principles.  Qun^, perhaps  are  more  pec^li|t| 
than  those  of^any  other  in  d^  jiniverse.  It  is  a^con^^jOiM^ 
tion.of  the  freest  principle^^f  the  English  constitution, 

VOL.    I.  2  I 


$50 


with  dtherft  derived  from  lutuml  pght  tlnd  natural  reaaon. 
To  these  nodling^  cantf  iki6re  opposed  than  the  ttiaxims 
of  absolute  monarchies.  Yet  finom  auch  we  are  to  expect 
the  greatest  number  of  enugtants.  They  VfiXL  bring  with 
th^  tiie  principles  of  the  governments  tbsf  leave,  imbibed 
iii  theil^  early  youth  ;•  or  if  able  to  throw  thiem  ofl^  h  win 
b<6  In  ^xchartge  for  an  unbounded  licentkmsnesa,  passing, 
as  b  usual,  from  bn^  extreme  to  another.  *  It  would  be 
a  miracle  were  they  to  stop  precisely  at  the  point  of 
temperate  liberty.  These  principles j  with  their  toguage, 
diey  w3i  transmit  to  their  children.  In  propordon  to  their 
numbetB  they  will  share  with  us  the  legislation*  They 
will  inftise  into  it  their  spirit^  warp  and  bias^its  direo* 
tioU)  and  reader  h  a  faeteKogeneous,  kicoherent,  distracted 
masa.  I  ma^  ajjypeal  to  e'xperience,  during  the  present 
cbtitest,  tbt  a  verification  of  ^lese  conjectures.'^  After  a 
kvf  ^ther  rfiflectiohs,  Mr.  Jeflferson  adds-^'^  If  ^y  come 
of  themselves,  they  are  entitled  to  all  the  rights  ^  atken- 
ship:  but  I  doubt-the  expediency  of  Mvtliii^  Mem  by  ex- 
traordinary en^ibUl^ements:  Imeanfutt  that  thes&doubts 
should  extend  to  useful  art^cers.  The  poticy^xf  Ihat  mea- 
afiiih^  %)ends  6n  vevy  dHltent  conaideiatioiiB.  a  iSJ^ttiv  no 
If6^ffeilttin6ibtluf^  They  irill-aftisr^wMlegoto 

^  plough  imd  theihoe ;  but^  in  the  metui  tune,  they  will 
tbacb  tts^  something  we  db  ^lot  know.  It  ifet  not  ap  in 
^^gritfilrure.  The  indifiereht  sttite  of  that  ittnong^tta  does 
Myt  ^ja^oteed  from  a  want  c^  knowledge  merely i  it^is^rom 
61^  fntving  such  quamities^of  land  to  waste  as^we  please. 
Ih  Eurtijse  the  object  is^  to  mdce  the  iflbat  of  ih^  land, 
b(boul*;bdttg  abundant :  herg  it  is  to  make  the  mmit  >of 
ouSl^iibbUr,  Itod  being  abUhdltot^" 


4' 

viiiiiviA. 


251 


On  MoMifit^furffSf  AgrieuUurei  and  Commerce^ 


I  '*  We  never  hfid  an  interior  trade  of  any  importance* 
Our  exterior  commerce  has  suffered  veiy  much  from  the 
beg^ing^  of  the  present  contest.  During  this  time  we 
have  manufactured  within  our  families,  the  most  necessary 
itfticks  of  clothing.  Those  of  cotton  will  bc^  some 
oomparisQR  with  the  same  kinds  of  manufacture  in  f^yrofi^i 
but  those  of  wool*  flax,  and  hemp  are  very  coarse,  uiv 
sightly,  and  unpleasant:  and  such  is  our  attachment  to 
agriculture,  and  such  our  preference  for  foreign  manufki- 
turet,  that,  be  it  wise  or  unwise,  our  people  wiU  certainly 
return  as  soon  as  th^  can,  tp  the  raising  raw  mi^terials, 
and  exehan^ng  them  for  fiiier  manu&ctures  than  they  are 
able  |9  execute  themselves. 

'  ^'  The  political  economists  of  Europe  have  establish^ 
il  as  a  pHm^ple  that  every  state  should  endeavour  to 
manu&ctui!^  ioK  itself;  and  this  principle,  Ujie  many  others, 
we  ferans&r  to  America,  without  calculatii^  the  diflbenoe 
of  cippumstaiice  which  should  often  produce  a  di%^t 
resultiv  Injgam^ie^the  lands  are  either  cultivated,  or  lock- 
ed-lip  against  the  culfivator.  Manufacture  must  theiefoie 
be  resorted  lo  of  necessity,  not  of  choice,  to  sui^rt  the 
fuifhis  of  their  people.  But  we  have  an  immensity  of 
jbind  courting  the  industry  of  thehu9bandman.  .  Is  it  best 
^w^thiit  aU  our  citieens  shoukl  be  employed  in  its  im- 
prevement,  or  that  one.hali  ^uld  be  called  off  from  that 
to  exercise^ manilfactures  and  handicraft  arts  for  the  other? 

THQSa  WHO  I,Aa0VR  IN  THX  EAXTH  AB£  Tif£  CHOSEN 

rsoy|.i  OF  Goo,  if  ever  he  had  a  chosen  people,  whose 
breasts  he  has  made  his  peculiar  deposit  for  substantial 
and  genuine  virtue.    It  is  the  focus  in  which  he  keeps 


m 


352 


TKAYALi  IN 


alive  that  sacred  fite,  which  othqpvise  might  escape  from 
the  fiice  of  the  earth.  Comiption  of  morals  in  the  mass 
of  cultivators  is  a  phenomenon  of  which  no  age  nor  nation 
has  furnished  an  example.  It  is  the  mark  set  on  those, 
who,  not  looking  up  to  heaven^  to  their  own  soil  and 
industry,  as  does  the  husbandman,  for  their  subustence, 
depend  for  it  on  t^  casualties  and  caprice  of  customers. 
Dependence  begets  subservience  and  venality,  suffocates 
the  germ  of  virtue,  and  prepares  fit  tools  for  the  designs 
of  ambition.  This,  the  natural  progress  an#consequence 
of  the  a|ts,  has  sometimes  perhiq>s  been  retarded  1^  acciden. 
tal  circumstances : ,  but,  generally  speaking,  the  proportion 
which  the  aggregate  of  tho  other  classes  of  the  citizens 
bears  in  any  state  to  that  of  its  husbendmenj  is  llie  pro- 
portion of  its  unsound  to  its.  healthy  parts,  and  is  a  good 
enough  barometer  whereby  to  measure  its  degree 'of  cor- 
ruption. While  we  have  land  to  labour  then,  let  us  never 
wish  to  see  our  citizens  occupied  at  a  work-bench,  or  twirl- 
ing a  distafil  Carpenters,  masons,  and  smiths  are  wanted  in 
husbandly ;  but  for  the  general  oper^ons  of  manufiiCture, 
let  our  work-shops  remain  in  Europe.  It  is  better  to 
cany  provisions  and  materials  to  workmen  there,  than  to 
bring  them  to  the  provi»ons  and  materials,  and  with  them 
their  maimers  and  principles,  ^he  loss  by  the  transporta- 
tion of  commodities  afiftiss  the  Atlantic  will  be  made  up 
in  happiness  and,  permanence  of,  government*  4  The  mobs 
of  great  ckies  add  just  so  nfiuch  to  the  support  of  pure 
government,  as  so^ea  do  to  the.  strength  df  the  human 
body.  It  is  the  manners  ^ndsf^t  of  a  people  which  pre- 
serve a  cepublic  in  vigour.  A^^generapy  in  these  is  a 
canker,  wliich  soon  eats  to  the  h^  of  its  laws  and  con- 
stitution."  • 


le  from 
te  mass 
r  nation 
1  those, 
ioil  and 
listence, 
itomers. 
iiffocates 
deagns 
lequence 
acciden- 
ropQrtion 
eitizens 
the  pro- 
isagood 
e -of  cor- 
U8  never 
,ertwiii- 
ivantedin 
lufiusture, 
better  to 
!,  than  to 
riththem 


> 


*     NORTH  CAROLINA. 


35Sr 


GHAFTER  XXXVU. 


"ji 


fFarrhitoiht'^Raleighy'^Fayettevil^* 

Two  mSes  from  where  we  entered  the  state  of  Nortfl* 
Carolina,  weAnsed  the  Roanoke  river  by  a  flat-bottbmed 
boat    The  banks  where  we  crossed  were  stee^  and  well 
wooded ;  the  soil  rich  and  fertile. 

The.ltoanoke  Is  composed  of  two  principil  stiieams,  the 
Dan\^and  Staunton,  which  rise  in  the  mountains,  and  unite 
in  the  state  of  Virginia,  about  45  miles  above  where  we 
crossed  it  From  thence  it  runs  a  pretty  crooked  pasi^ 
8age,Kbut  nearly  south-east,  80  miles,  to  where  it,  fells  into 
Albemarle  sound,  by  four  diffisrent  channels,  near  the  out^"* 
let  of  the  Chowan  river.  ^  It  b  navigable  nearly  SO  mOes 
for  velsds  of  considerable  aze,  and  for  boats  of  from  90 
to40'tons  to  the  falls,  70  miles  frt>m  its  motidi.  The  land 
is  said  to  be  very  rich  qp  the  banks  of  this  river,  and  itiany 
w^KiU&y  ]^]ant^rs  live  on  it.  ^* 

'WetpeiVelled  16  miles,  partly  along  the  banks  of  the  ri- 
Yd*,  tb  Warrent6n,  where  w^  stopped  for  the  night.  The 
country  was  fertile  a^d  well  impit>ved ;  the  weather'  clou"^ 
d^  aiid' rather  cbld. 

Waitertton  is  a  neat  litfle  town,  c6ntain!ng  about  300^ 
inhiibitants;  who  look  wen,'and  Ire  said  to  be  mc^y  Eti- 
ropeans.   The  towii  stands  on  a  high  dry  situation;  and  is 
said  to  be  healthy.    There  is  a  Very  respectable  academy; 
at  which  there  are  generally  60  or  70  studentA.  '* 


tf^ 


"^^ 


^~. 


t* 


V 


iS54 


TJULVBL8  W 


Thursday,  October  9tlu  We  |cft.WaiveQtao  a$,  5  o'clock 
^Jn  the  morning,  and  travelled  25  miles,  through  a  levels 
.> sandy  country,  to  i^misburg,  an  inconsiderable  village  on* 
the  banka  of  the  Tar  river,  which  we  crossed  at  this  place. 

Tal  rivei^  is  a  cot^siderable  streaili,  risii^  about  30  miles 
above  where  we  crossed  it,  and,  running  about  150  miles 
in  a  sout])*east  direction,  falls  into  Pamlicoe  sound,  v  It  is 
navigable  about  30  miles  to  Washington,  and  from  thence 
for  flats  to  Tarborough,  90  miles  froni  its  outliet 

From  hence  we  travelled  16  miles,  thoi^ountiy  sandy, 
and  having  a  barren  aspect,  but  the  road  pretty  good,  to 
Nuse  river,  whicli  we  passed  by  a  feny. 

Nuse  river  rises  about  40  miles  above  whies(t||rf  cross, 
ed,  and,  runqing  a  south-east  course  about  8$2Q  miks,  fiilis 
also  into  Pamlicoe  sound.  It  is  navigable  fyt  sea-vessels 
12  miles  above  Newbem,  for  fla^  50  miles  fuitber,  and 
for  small  boats  nearly  200  miles  from  its  oudet  « 

About  eightMrniles,  through  a  counti:y  a  little  more  fer. 
tile  and  better  improved,  we  n»ched  Raleigh,  and  hese  we 
stopped  for  the  night  The  princ^  produoe  m  the  coun- 
try through  wluch  we  passed  this  day,;  is  cotton. and  In- 
dian com.    The  weather  was  ck>udy,  with  a  shower  of 

» 

ram.-'  ?  ■:  .,  -^.*.'. 

Ha  L£  lo  H ,  the  seat  of  government  of  ^oc^  Capsoliiia^  is 
aituatedin  north  latitude  35^  56'^  a^d  is  nearly  in  the  ceo- 
tre  of  the  state,  being  160n|iles  from  the  sea^ooaat  The 
plan«of  the  city  is  regular,  the  streets  crossing  ope  another 
at  right  angles,  and  thpre  is  a  large  square  in  the  middle 
for  thf^^bUc  buildings.V>^« 

RaMjl^  contained,  by  the  oepsus  of  laOO,  334  friee  per 
so^s  and^  335  slaves.  The  state-house  cost  abo^ei  15,000 
dollars.^T]iere  are  no  other  public  buildings  oif  impor 


V; 


o'clock 
a  kvel, 
iUageon* 
18  place. 
30  Buks 
50  miles 
d.  .  Itis 
n  thence 

ry  twady, 
good,  to 

^«  cross- 
iiules,fiil|s 

9e«-ve98els 
itber,  wd 

inofe  fa- 

ijut  ooun* 

onmidln- 

shower  of 


^    NOBttt' dA«0tIl9A. 


255 


feee  per 

^Cii5,000 


tafice,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  other*  buildings  being  oT 
wood,  the  place  exhibits  no  veiy  flattering  lippetfanoe. 
They  have  a  little  trade  in  cotton  amd*  tobacco. 

Frida^f  10th.  We  set  out  fiom  Raleigh  at  4  o'clock  In 
the  morning*    The  paasengers  had  noW  all  dispersed  in 
diflerent  ^irectbni,  except  the  captain  and  myself.    Wie 
had  the  itage  to  ourselves,  and  yveie  as  merty^  as  ever. 
But  there  were  few  objects  exteriorly  to  excite  attention^ 
or  elittit  remark.    The  country  was  one  continued  dull 
locne  of  aandimd  pine  bairens.    Now  and  then  we  pass^ 
ed  A  few  piles  of  Wood,  collected  for  the  purpose  of  ma^ 
king  tar^and  the  streams  we  crossed  generally  looked  asif^i 
they  had  been  at  tar-making  too,  b^ng  neariy  va  black  as 
thtt  oommodity.   The  elements  indicated  a  change  of  wea- 
ther,  and  recollecting  the  higfalandman^  prognosticatkm^ 
'^iM|f  fittr  long  Jbtdy"*  1  fdt  by  anticipation  a  dreaiy  tail 
taviay  journey  afkr  my  agreeable  friend  would  leave  me, 
and  we  had  only  this  day  to  travel  in  company. 
I  in  this  mood' I  travelled  25  miles  to  Biaek  river,  and 
eQntintfil^  our  course  through  a  similar  country,  we  came 
to^a^sbn^  place  called  Avereysborough,  soon  after  which 
we  passed  Cape  Fear  river.  # 

Cd^A^or  river  is  the  most  considerable  stream  i\. 
>iQKlh  Cacoiinau  It  rises  about  100  miles  above  Fayette^ 
viUe,juid>  running  a  south-east  direction,  upwards  of  200 
mUes,  £dls.in«o  the  Atkmtic  ocean,  at  Cape  Fear,  which 
gives  it  ats  name.  It  is  about  three  miles  Wide  at  its  out- 
lel^  andiliiere  is  18  feet  on  the  bar  at  high  waler.  It  b 
navigable  for  vessels  drawing  lO^or  11  feet,  to  Wilnying^ 
m ;  'by  '■  ^oops  25  miles  above  Wilmington ;  and  by 
boats  to  Fayett^ille.    Having  crossed  this  river,  we  pro« 


356 


TBAVBLt  III 


'i 


cceded,  nearly  along  iti  western  bank,  35  miles  to  Fayette, 
ville,  whicli  we  reached  about  7  o'clock. 

Here*  my  agreteble  tiavcUing  companion,  who,  .was  i 
veiy  respectable  merchant  in  the  place,  invited  me  to  his 
house,  and  showed  me  every  degree  of  hospitality.  As  no 
pasaengers  were  going  on,  he  urged  me  to  spend  a  couple 
of  days  With  him,  and  as  an  inducement  promised  to  intro- 
duoe  me  to  a  Soots  higfalander,  who  played  delightfully 
on  the  bog'pipet.  I  was,  however,  urgent  to  be  home, 
and  resisted  atll  entreaty.  But  finding  that  my  funds  would 
not  hold  out  till  I  reached  Charleston,  I  availed  myself  of 
his  friendship  to  get  a  small  supfdy,  till  I  could  remit  from 
thence,  with  which  having  fumi^ied  me,  together  with  let- 
ters of  introduction  to  some  of  his  friends  in  that  city,  we 
parted  with  mutual  good  wishes. 

F(0rtteville  contains  about  1800  inhabitants,  is  a  place 
of  coiisiderBble  trade,  and  is  rising  in  wealth  and  impor- 
tance. The  public  buildings  are  handsome  i  and  ^there 
are  a  considerable  number  of  mills,  distilleries,  hriewene^ 
and  tan-yards.  The  principal  produce,  carried  to  A^/^lming- 
ton.  market,  is  tobacco,  wheat,  flour,  cotton,  flaxaeed*  and 
providonr.  '  w      ^    .    ,    >     >n 

r^lie  country  round  Wibnington  is  genciaUy  sandy,  but 
there  are  rich  lands  on  the  bei^  of  the  river,  and  the  coun- 
try is  esteemed  pret^  healthy.  A  great  many  emigrants 
fix>m  Scotland  are  settled  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Saturday,  11th.    The  stage  started  this  moming  at  5 
^ckx^;  ahd  I  was  the  only  passenger..    The  dOuntry  be- 
came moreand  more  dismal,  and  was  very  thinly  inhabited. 
The  day  was  rainy,  damp,  and  disagreeable;  the.  creeks  I 
swdled  beyond  their  natural  lunits,  which  made  crossing  | 
very  ^fEcuIt;  and  the  people  looked  pale  and  sickly. 


Every 
At  om 
to  unl( 
ingLu 
the  nig 
Yankee 
Lum 
containe 
place  wi 
the  inhi 
the  food 
bacon  ai 
for  drift* 
Sunda 
all  Sundi 
in  conset 
we  had 
forward  c 
still  more 
Aat'*we  p 
itleiigfli 
oneof  tb 
a  Very  in 
ftree  larg 
Miepers, 
pieces,  ca 
fixed  bve 
I^thefi« 
jtJst  them, 
thefore-w 
pedthepn 
the  driver 

VOL.    I. 


^^  -  -  - 

VaMr  C  ABOLINA. 


•  S57 


ayette- 

,.was  i 
i  to  his 
,  As  no 
i  coupk 
tointro- 
^uUy 
e  home, 
Is  would 
(lysdf  of 
mitfirom 
with  let- 
city,  we 

is  a  place 
kd  impor. 
md /there 
xieweriesi 


Its 


Every  thing  conspired  to  thiv/W  me  into  a  gloomy  reverie. 
At  one  creek  we  found  the  bridge  so  shattered,  that  we  had 
to  unloote  the  horses  and  drag  over  the  stage.  On  reach- 
ing Lumberton,  S3  miles  from  Fayetteville,  we  stopped  for 
the  night,  at  the  house  of  a  very  intelligent  and  inquisitwe 
Yankee. 

Lumberton,  he  told  me,  consisted  of  33  houses,  and 
contained  164  white  people,  and  44  blacks.  He  said  the 
place  was  healthy;  but,  judging  ^m  the  countenances  of 
the  inhabitants;  I  would  have  thought  otherwise.  As  to 
the  food,  it  did  not  suit  my  palate  at  all.  It  consisted  of 
bacon  and  brown  bread,  both  of  a  very  sable  colour,  and 
for  dridk  we  had  new  peach  brandy,  as  hot  as  pepper. 

Sunday,  12th.  It  is  customary  for  the  stage  to  stop 
all  Sunday;  but  having  made  a  short  Journey  yesterday, 
in  consecjuence  of  the  badness  of  the  weather  and  roa^ 
we  had  to  make  up  the  distance  this  day;  and  we  set 
forward  on  our  journey  at  9  o'clock.  The  country  became 
stiD  more  dismal,  and  the  ereeks  were  more  swelled;  so 
dnt^'we  prosecuted  oilr  journey  with  great  difficulty,  and 
Jit  lei^th  we  met  with  an  accident  wluch  proved  fetal  to- 
one  of  the  horses.  We  came  to  a  creek,  with  a  bridge  in 
a  very  imperfect  state.  It  was  constructed  of  timber; 
dtree  large  logs  were  stretched  across  the  creek,  called 
sleepers,  and  these  supported  a  number  of  mis-shapen 
pieces,  called  rafters,  thrown  on  at  random,  without  being 
fixed  by  either  nails  or  pins.  They  had  been  disturbed 
by  the  freshet  in  the  creek,  and  the  driver  alighted  to  ad- 
jtist  them.  He  then  drove  on ;  but  on  entering  the  bridge, 
the  fore-wheels  gathti-ed  the  rafters  in  a  heap,  which  stqi- 
ped  the  progress  of  the  carriage ;  and  this  happened  just-as 
the  driver  was  in  the  act  of  whipping  up  the  farei|iorses. 


VOL.    I. 


2  K 


|erii:,  by  pulling;  diit  (hie  staple  of  ihb  mam  stdngletree; 
the)'  Mt  bff  AiII  speed,  the  swih^etfedft  ^ling  at  their 
he^f«^  We  aHghted,  tbbk  out  the  oth^  two  Horses,  and 
dragged  the  stagie  ov#  odrs^lvesl  Whe^/  pMng  in  the 
horses,  We  moved  for^vard,  and  half  a  mile  from  the  otek 
i^  fbilnd  ohe  the  fb^-hOi'ses  lying  htatty  dead,  tA  the  side 
of^  ia  tree.  It  appealed  that  one  was  stronger  than  th^  other, 
iM  had  pulled  hM  of  the  road  hito  the  wdO<!^,  whdfi,  dash. 
iiig  Against  a  ttx^,  the  iibot  ^Imlilliad  ^  his  d^ifH  blow! 
I  c^culated  that  the  bfid^  couldlihvef  be^n  piit  iitito  a  sub. 
^tkmial  Male  fb^fiv6  dollars;  and'thi^  ^^e  a^cidehtWbtild 
be  a  loss  of  at  l<akt  150. 

A  few  ams  %«rid  thfs  i^e  rdifch^  the  itag^,  i^trt 
^vli  dihed.'  aur  diftfieir,  as  atl:.uttibeHbn,  #a8  Bladk  ba- 
eon;  oiiir  6rtvk,  Httv  peach  bi»aiidj^.  But  M  tWUbks 
w^  bitfy  t)egiriniii^i  A  mife  min  #1^^  ^e  SiM  m 
Mdtb  cros^  A^pote  sii^p;^b6bt  d^-d^  of  ^  iiii9eih 
bi^eadth  J  oAdUtt  I  met  with  kdftietteng  liew.  We  §wiaih 
M>ss  m  the  sbee;  ^  it  #a^  S^ilb'^^^  l^. 
a^^ldie  ixm  mA  a  vdy  com^e^  s6elk!irig.  '  W^  I 
obsciHTttf  the  ibre-llrirses  plunge,  I  called  oiif  to  tlie  dHver 
\^tlier  We  must  i#iitf .  "  O  3^,"  iixf%  %  «  ^if«m  a^ 
Msti^h  thick  ahd  tMri>  I  it^^istca  thaiT  hfe  #6u!d  it- 
moi^e  lh6  mail  td  a"  higher  ^t.  He  tv^  liot  foi^  lOsihg 
tife:  liiiSistedrmightbeall^it^tcii^^ 
and  this  being  g^ted,  I  preirailidd  <^  Mm  to  assist  nie  in 
iiidVing' tM  man  ^^ :  \i^ch  hafihg  done/lie  da^ 
thiSli^  tlife  cttek.  ' 

SoOn  after  thl^  Wei  passed  th^  b6i^'iiBi^  lii)<^  df  S6uth 
dlr^^^  20  niiies  IrOth  LiMb^o^,^  Which  I  j^Iy 
pjtai^  rirtfflte^  a  genera  r^vfewi^ 


l^^jl^  C4Bp|.)irii. 


^9 


■m'' 


ii  ■ 


Sdutii 


<^'*l^S!liMM»flKji 


"73^     "iU. 


*.  ^€^  '.'#k.iii'  ^ 


CHAPTER  XXXYia. 

Abrt^  Carolina 


Is  sitwtfed  between  north  latitude  33''  47' and  36°  3(y»  and 
1° c^  and  0°  45'  west  longituck*  Its  goeatesjt  length,  from 
east  to  west,  i»  473,  and  its  gneateat  breadth,  finom  north  to 
south,  18  198  miles.  It  contains  50,500  square  miles,  or 
32,320,000  acres. 

Tk^  fiice  of  the  coyntiy  is  much  diversified*  To  the 
cast,  and  south-east,  there  is  a  sea'^oast  of  niearly  300 
miles,  indented  with  a  great  number  of  bays,  the  principal 
!Df  which  are  Afbemarle  and  Pamticoe  sounds,  which  re-> 
ceiv«  the  gmttor  part  of  the  rivers*  On  the  outside  of 
these  sounds  are  some  of  the  most  remarkable  capes  la 
America,  Cape  Hatteras,  and  Cape  Look-out,  and  to  thr 
southward  is  Cape  Fear.  The  whole  country  below  th^ 
hiead  of  tide  water,  about  100  miles  into  the  interidr,  is  low 
and  sandy,  abounding  in  swamps,  and  presents  an  evident 
appearance  of  having  been  at  one  period  overflowed  by  the 
sea.  The  country  from  the  head  of  the  tide  waters,  to- 
wards the  mountains,  is  agreeably  uneven,  and  much  im- 
proved in  value.  Among  the  mountains  it  is  exactly  rimi« 
lar  to  the  state  of  Virginia ;  but  being  a  few  degrees  to  the 
south,  the  value  of  the  country  is  improved,  and  the  sea- 
sons in  >that  district  are  deligl^tful. 

The  state  ^,  ixpon  the  whole,  well  watered.  The  ri* 
vers  ^  into  the  Atlantfc  Ocean,  and  have  been  alljioticedy 


.      V 


260 


KORTH  CAROLINA. 


t 


except  some  to  the  southward,  which  I  shall  have  to  cross 
in  my  way  to  Charleston. 

It  is  supposed  that  this  state  is  well  supplied  in  valuable 
minerals,  particularly  in  the  mountainous  district.  Iron 
ore  is  very  plenty,  and  gold  has  been  found  in  conadera- 
ble  quantities.    There  are  various  mineral  springs. 

The  soil  of  North  Carolina  is  very  similar  to  that  of 
Virginia.  The  low  port  of  the  state,  which  is  a  conside. 
rable  portion  of  it,  is  low,  sandy,  and  barren,  aboundmg 
in  |»ne  trees ;  and  the  swamps,  which  are  very  large,  pnv 
duce  cedars  and  bay  trees.  There  are,  in  this  district, 
good  (tracts  of  .meadow  land  along  the  rivers,  which  are 
well  cultivated)  and  produce  abundantly.  From  the  head 
cf  the  tide  waters  to.  the  mountains,  the  soil  improve^  and 
is  very  various.  The  mountainous  district  is  very  similar 
to  that  in  Virgiiua. 

The  climate  in  the  low  country  is  subject  to  great  and 
sudden  changes,  sfnd  is  often  unhealtl^  in  the  M.  Gene- 
rally, the  winters  are  mild,  but  very  changeable.  The 
^dng  is  early,  but.  subject  to  occasional  |rost&  The 
Summers  are  hot  and  sultry,  and  the  autumns  lare  serene 
and  beautiful ;  but  the  exhalations  from  the  decaying  ve* 
getable  matter  in  the  marshes  and  swamps  are  veiy  inju- 
rious  to  health.  In  the  upper  country,  the  weather  is 
more  settled,  and,  being  fipee  from  swamps,  is  healthy. 
Among  the  mountains,  the  climate  is  renuurkably  plea- 
sant :'  ■  ■-■;., 

The  history  of  the  first  settlement  of  North  Carolina  is 
considerably  lost  in  obscurity.  In  1710,  it  contained 
about  1^0  fencible  men,  when  the  first  permanent  setde- 
ment  was  made,  under  the  direction  of  the  propf  btors  of 
South  Carolina.     In  1728,  the  proprietors  having  sold 


V/' 


aOWttU  CAROUl^A. 


261 


their  right  to  the  crown,  it  was  erected  into  a  royal  go- 
vernment. The  inhabitants  took  an  early  and  decisive 
port  in  the  war  for  independence,  and  the  state  sufiered 
veiy  severely.  In  1774,  they  appointed  three  delegates 
to  the  first  congress,,  and  adopted  a  state  constitution  in 
1776.  .It  now  sends  two  senators  and  twelve  representa- 
tives to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  8  districts  and  60  counties. 
The  population,  in  1800,  was  478,103,  of  whom  133,296 
were  slaves,  being  upwards  of  10  persons  to  the  square, 
mile^  , 

The  state  has  made  oonriderable  improvements  in  ^i- 
culturey  commerce,  and  national  wealth;  but  it  exhibits  a 
barren  pro^ct  to  the  traveller.  Tht  post  road  runs 
through  the  poorest  part  of  it,  and,  to  use  the  language  of 
Mr.  Jefferson,  "  the  genius  of  architecture  seems  to  have 
shed  lus  maled]<^tions  over  the  land."  The  buikUngs'are 
mostly  of  wood,  some  of  tliem  painied,  and  some  not; 
ind  they  exhibit  a  very  unughtly  appearance.  '  Like  Vir- 
ginia, there  are  no  large  towns,  and  them  seems  to  be  no 
occasion  for  them.  Mankind  are  probably  better  accom* 
modated  by  a  great  number  of  small  towns  than  by  a  few 
laige  cities. 

Newbem  is  the  chief  town.  It  is  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Nuse  and  Trent  rivers,  on  a  level  point  of 
land,  somewhat:  resembling  Charleston,  South  Carolina; 
and  it  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  other  places  in 
the  state,  and  the  West  Indies.  The  population,  in  1800, 
was  2467,  of  whom  above  one  half  were  slaves. 

WUmington  IB  the  most  commercial  to\vn  in  tlie  state. 
It  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  two  branches  of  Cap6 
Fear  river,  35  miles  from  the  sea,  and,  being  the  Jilace 


abqji^  17flQ  inlj^^t^,  Jhf^  >o|iaps  ^  n^jpstjy  bpilt  of 
wood,  9fvd  lif^tfiwfk  h^  su£^d  ^verdy  frpp^  fife  at  y^, 
riou9>  times.  .... 

Edentoi^y  xx^  Alt)©pMr|e  Sou»d»  j^  joiie  of  $be  ojdest 
towns  in  the  state,  and  was  formerly  the  §^  pf  ^  |x^al 
governors.  J|  is  ^voijj^Iy  sj^i^tfi4  ftr  ^e,  but  J?  low 
an4  uph^i^y.  It  copt^ins  a^u^  l^p  inljibi$ajit^, 
.mJJ^igh  and.  F^yf!«^vilJle  \m^ J^^  mA^^  Tte 
others  of ,  n:^ost  note  are   IFa^hington^   Tmr^pugfi^  ao^ 

n9fe  M%  9»|}f  J#^;  Mmm^pmi  mS^c^: 

|at^|i  of  these  p%cp§  ^s  kgia  a^ut  3pQ,  t^  TiPQi  jai^d  Jbere 
^e^lDipy  yi|!^^  co)y^#g  frx^  JOQ  tjp^Spp. 

Tifie  i|^ Midbiidg^  ^  yet  iji  J«qi j0JI>qfec^ .^^  aiod 
much  r^Hi^  t9  feg  49pe^9  p^j^e  jR^yeljisig  .^ORrfofmbl?. 
M  The  inhabi^BJ^  ^  f^osjdy  J^rroa?^>  wd  p^U$:e  oji  thi^ 
ftnus  ey^  ^npc^spy  ^  }ife.  The  pcippipal  pimmodities 
for  safe  are  J^,  tui^paitin!e»  pitph,  jipsin,  tioiber,  hecis^wax, 
corn,  €Qt^u>  and  Jpb^GGo.  Almcist  ey«iy  fe^y  j^  the 
country  manu&cture  their  own  clothing,  so  tl\at  fh)e  Bri- 
t^  trade  to  thjs  state  i^  not  great,  ^r  impprt^  The 
greater  part  of  it  iSjC^ied  on  thrpu^ j^e  fn^dii^n  of 
Charleston^,  or  the  northern  sist^  The  diiect  exports 
amounted,  in  1305,  to  779,903  dollars. 

The  state  of  society  is  somewhat  £^nii|^  |^  Yiiginia. 
Many  of  the  planters  arewi^thy,  fjrank,  sai^  ho^itable; 
and  G(»iiaiderable  efforts  have  bee^  in^4Qipliqe  educa- 
tion on  a  respectable  footing,  A  uniyersk^  .j^Abeen 
founded,  and  endowed  by  the  state ;  an^  there  are  .several 


«•  */-.'(*^:f'^^ 


•:*•' 


ic|p^i£K  academies.    But  thei^^  important  bnmeh,  ' 
tl^%hich  has  for  its  XJbject  the  ^«imi/ diffusion  of  kiiow- 
Icd^,  has  bdilft  ne|[lected  untH  of  late.   In  1808,  however;;** 
aiiliSbt  p^s(fd  the  li^slature  tb^e^tablish  common  school^ 
throughout  the  sti^,  Whidi,  if  fiilbii(^6d  up,  will  produce 
gtjod  eflects.         *  *' 

Th^  le^slativef  authority  is  vested  in  a  senate  and  house 
of  commons,  together  styled  tlie  Genei^'AssemWy,  and 
(mth  WXES^,      ^hfltd»  liliUit  be  l^ksessed  of  acSO" 
aferts  dfMd;  fc?>i*fttMiVes  ttf  ICfclThfe  electors' of ^ 
$^Ktr«r  imist  be  pbii^ssedf  of  50  acfies  of  land ;  and  of 
i^fis§i»d\rje^  ^  fi«^9iibld  ill  sbme  toWi/.    The  (Executive 
is  ve^d  M  r  gttv^Jirttb^,  elected  bj^  the  General  Assetably^ 
i^  lilr  i^  il6l  c^Ue  f  b  S^tv«  1iibi^  thii  ^ifee  years  in 
MiU  ii  Ssdlst^  bjr  a  ctmMi  of  istdte,  c^ktslsting  dTsi^veti 
I^efabflS,  thti^  by  the*  Asfe^bff  SfihualTy:  Thfe  j^ddlciBlr]!** 
^isdj  dr  t  Itipltef^  eqtiJty,  ^d%  doUf^ 

rf^dtti(h^«  The  fiidgles  ait  %6iited  by  the  Assemblj^^^ 


■4^ 


■V*^ 
,.»-# 


■  P?55|^s 


■ '«» 


'F-  ■"  ^"  1-''  •     "^  '--.-fl^Ji-  ■#-'^ «  ■ 


^4  '^  !FBAV£L8  %t^ 


,-i 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

JVilltonf^Georgetowny^Charlesttni. 

Although  we  had  passed  into  a  different  state,  we 
had  neither  a  tfiore  beautiful  country,  nor  a  better  road. 
Th& one  was  flat,  siwamp3r,  and  dismal;  the  other  was  bad 
in  the  extreme.  We  passed  a  smatt^  plantation,  li  mile  &om 
the  state  line,  sAerwhi(^h  We  had  three  miles  of  Sfditaty 
iroiid/wheh  we  oimte  to  altnethodist  church,  attended  by  a 
pr^t^  decent-looking  i:ongtegalion.  Five  mileid  from  thence 
is  Swimmfaig  creeic;  but  we  did  ndt^tt^in^  here,  though  we 
ha4  t6ivade?L\tm^  way.  A  mile  Mother  we  reached  Littk 
Pedee,  where  'we  left  the  stage,  and  crossed  in  a  ooioe  to 
Foil's,  where  ^e  stopped  for  the  mght.  The  day'^was 
tnoi^  and  warm,  rather  sultry,  but  on  the  whole  n6t  disa- 
greeable. The  country  was  more  imminently  wretched 
thmi  any  I  had  yet  seen,  and  excited  a  wonder  how^it  was 
inhabited  at  all,  whien  there  is  so  much  good  limd;  and  so 
maiiy  fine  diiniates,  in  dtiier  parts  of  the  United  States. 

Little  Pedee  river  rises  about  80  mile^  above  where  we 
crdssed  it,  ruhs  a  south-east  course  about  ISO  miles,  and 
falls  intb  the  Great  Pedee.  It  is  a  considerable  stream,  and 
at  this  time  was  swelled  by  the  late  rains  to  a  great  extent. 
It  is  lidt  navigable.  ^'^^  **^   »  * 

Mdtt^y,  October,  13th.  On  getting  up  this  morning,  at 
daylight,  I  ibund  the  driver,  a  young  hd  of  about  181,  was 
not  inclined  to  go  on  with  the  stage,  and  Mr.  Fordv  the  post- 


not  Tl 
aereek 
Nygct 
It  wouk 
mohthi^' 

pOKSO, 

]»8tnias( 
w'adifl 
cijuveoo 
^ii4thi 
tiM  the ) 
^moiuitabd 
^iliouidi 

4KKm  up 
ftittmaste 
abye-patl 
fMafhqiag 
Another  ( 

aiBiitance 
Iha4x)8tnn 
three  doUe 
iag^sti 
fnrpoae;  I 
'ttiem(^it 
flsta'  go  <M 
^  Having 
io^ileedy  c 
iwamps  b} 

VQls,  I. 


BOrrH  OAWfLCKA. 


365 


nuMtor,  seemed  to  be  voy  mdifierent  whether  he  went  or 
not  TheMvcr  alleged  that  there  was  a  bridge  broken  on 
a  eieek  about  18  imles  distant,  which  he  could  not  possi- 
hty  get  across,  and  it  was  of  no  use  to  try^  I  adtedwhen 
It  would  be  passable.  He- replied  drily,  **PeriiapB  in  a 
mohthi^'  *'  And  are  we  to  wait  hero  a  month?"  ^  I  sup^ 
pose  so,'f  pud  he,  with  great'  sang^Jhid.  I  appeided  to  the 
postmaster,  but  he  appeared  willing  to  leave  it  to  the  dri« 
ysr's  discretieiL  Thus  situated,  I  resohred  to'iake  a^de- 
ciiuve  course,  and  told  them,  thai;  though  I  was  unacqu&int(- 
ed  with  the  post-^oe  xegu]ation%  yet  it  appeared  to  me 
that  the  sta|^  oug^  not  to  be  ^loppedj  but  by  an  unstar- 
moimtable  dificuky,  and^  after  the  answers  I  bad  rooeived, 
;i  would  require  to  see  that  d^icuky  before  I  wai^tisfied 
of  it.  If'thtRforo  the  stage  iras  detaiiied  here/IxUfilald 
4acm  up  a^  rtpreseniation  of  the  ease^  and  send  It  to'tht 
fiettmBster*geneniL  The  young  man  siud^  that  thitfe^limi 
a  bye-path  through  the  woods,  wluch  he  could  ^takei^  aiid 
pe^fa^  gel  over  the  creek,  provided  he  had  any  ss^iat&hce. 
Afiodier  dilver  was  in  iht  house,  who  wished  <IS^  go  to 
^Neopgetown,  and  hflving  no  money,  he  offered  to  gSve  l^s 
aisiitance  if 'tliey  would  give  him  a  passage  ft^*  T^ 
Ae-^xMlmasfer  objected  to.  The  sum  was  onty  about 
three  ddkurs^  and  I  pointed  out  the  impropriety  of  detain- 
ing Mstage^two*  days  for  such  a  trifle;  but  it^Was  to  no 
purpose ;  and  I  was  oli^iged  to  become  security  for  the  ps^<- 
ment  of  it  beforo  Mr.  Ford  would  consent  to  let  the  yt^<i% 


man'  go  on. 


■'•t^- 


^  Having  got  thb  matter  adjusted,  we  travelled  15  iiftlk^ 
toUeedy  creeki  die  scnl  sandy,  the  woods  pine,  and  rtliny 
swamps  by  tlie  way.    The  b^iks  of  this  creek  wei«  over- ' 


'«^: 


jr 


VOL.  I. 


2  L 


.T«A«»LS:1M.i.(T! 


^■U-:'-'  •* 


iioived  'to  Ihe  \xdtMi  of  *«  quarter,  of  a 
Aboulft  tnite  beyond  thb)  tltetiflya:  topknptHpr  tteo^gh 
^  woodsy  the  asaisttutt'drivcrfifitiiig  aa  lupoeer^iiiiMi  aftv 
itn^linj^in  this  wajr  mui^  Ibree  mi)eay^fM;8^«Mfte  ^  thfc 
}Cxo^fKbiG»mng  Which  iw^Aadite  aljli|fcoiHkin:ill  thb  monk- 
iag«  L  it  was  noUiraad^:  Imtf  very  ^teefi,.«qid  choakbd.  up 
iiritkfixMs  andibniahv^noe^  lidid  notji^^ili/appttaiaiice;; 
bill  ihfrerwts  no  aHfimatljYev  we  muatveitfcQr  go  ditoogiibQr 
i«tu9i*    H«vipig'a«civ^  ttift  i^         thft^iMPiJttidtak^ 

.Ct»j.9Q1li»  |lliK»IM|ti0i|Stift  Q^  of  bl^*:lQ)«|t,:l¥CfMpliinged 

iDt  9iir9%^h^Ni|$rQ9a^  Di^a^hed  ^  cf)pQait»v,ba9](  imiia^; 
jisid  $<aiH)Ui|%a^tt^ji.|niJ^  I)iipiig^#ai^daa»ik9^^ 
ii«/i^«piiifid  |hla^  i}o»dy  „M^:4nui)h:  t9;jMijlf:itiil»afiM^^ 

1^  i^pili^  l^yoipid  this  ^e  itiaqhfd i^Qtm  iMae fi»«, 

,;^^  Tihis  ^  a  Jfie  jflowiilg  Jrivert  rpesfclf  tfr  #i©^Sw^ 
l^igGilT 4»,  ^th.  Qfolm     It  1^  ;/ii«,  JKoi^  fyir^ 

Yadkin  liver^  From  thence  it  continues  a  south.-^aiis|^oiillili 
«llJrta|^"fefiWg^-4^  l«t^  Itpblrtai^ Jst«wina»^pail^c 

tofeiifMe  I5^i^.l^^h's<j|!eeki«^ 
ipttftjtiip  i«%^lg  B^^  belaw  G^at|;etQips»i^  ^whok^l^^ 
is  upwards  of  300  miles^  and  it  waters^  exteosiye  ^ct 


fiOUTB  VAMOhOKA, 


Mt: 


of  oxMlijriW  It  is  navigiMelbr  iea^vesada.to Geoi^iUMin^ 
wd  fiit^^«mlkr  vcMils.100  milet  higher,  np^  It  i»jbout\ 
40l^yivdii  'hroadf  whoe  we  cciMMd  it^i  and  flows  vfth  a 
ttioni^  nnimt  lli-bfliiki  tire  said  ta  ht  feitile^  biit^  in  liist 
k)f<it^coiMti^,  •ro'vay  iifihcakhy* 
(u^iWiMtoppod  her^  for  breakftat,  but  the  iimulff  were  ail' 
fltek^'wiii''fev«r  ttid«aguC|  in  conaeqnenoe  ei^whid^ira' 
#ape  tai%  detained  '  It  was^  how^o'ciS '  at  laat  pnadnoed^ 
aad  fsoMltad  4tf  unsightl^^  c^^  brpwn  braid^  aonML; 
bacon  and  butter,  which  looked  like  **  train  oil,  thicbeiittl^ 
uddn  idt.V » (had  just  put  the  cupio  my  Hps,  when  I  faeiund 
».nQltnatictehi|ig]BthB>«dj(iining  f^  the  doqrof  whiel^ 
jaMwitliatBlyiopeitfed,  and  ouiioame  such  a«n»^>itt<^Ued 
the  tomivritli'ii  p^ume  somewhat  difaent  fiaom  duit  of 
4nbi»  fidixw  I  ooiild  not  bear  it,  an4  uBged^o  be  gD|ie|: 
but  ^Ihflhdtaivtiit  seemed  to  be  accustomed  to  tfaesi'^sovt t<lC 
sctiiH^r«itd  ale  likeir  coarsr^ve  mik  ^  the  cwiiposnffe 


!   I' 


JV.r.H-'tUt;-     ti^iJ*  yj^J  .■■^'•^:^-^',^^'^  i-t-^u  f  •'■■    -..uH 


^  We  left  thiinrretehed  place  at  half  past  11  o'clock,  i 
twc^  ndkn  dialB^tf  came  Into  the  old  post-road^  whkh  gi^ve 
ut^aigreatd^fceof  pleaaure;  {as  tli&  road  front  Lun^eri* 
ioft'lvas^'ill  aliieiv  lin^^  and  dispevatdy  bad*  Howeireii 
eil^thy^blift  mttc  not  ovser>;  liar  »  few  imles  aftor  ^entisfing 
thia  dokI^  we«ame  to  L^Fnch'srcitck;  aUd  hew  ^  brieve 
wiajM^Qi^^gonej^  but  the  waler  was  spraad  onrer  the  ftoe 
•ff^c|h^)«car^'  ^ttmty  ^three  quarters'  of  a  makt-  in  breadtht 
f^htf^^MOMHaltousei  at  die  cidier  side^  but  the  view  waa  ob« 
Hmeieiir^^^tlie'wiooda,  and  we  had  lo  iioflow  fcfr  half  an 
lMHirrbeibi«i#^wei«4  h^rdJ*  At  M;  to  use  au  bial| 
fMle^v'iitt  iheitfii  dK^  voioe«4tf  oua  pla^ing.in  die  wsAeiv 
tiM^tkmmM^^mmMt^Miibma^p^^  flat^  on 

MOB -jMI  intK'*wMKKBfWEXOm8^i'-^   ■.ti.ut^t'^-^-'  ■,«..? 


i2M^ 


Tm^mnM  in 


.^ 


^tii9tmitt§  over  liiiM^r  cRdet  ndriwiiiips  of  ^nfiMraois^ 
and  thwB'iSi  hmikywf  Aiag  etae  to  oxcke  Kwmldii  m 
this  Qounlrf ,  we  iwiehed  BlMkmiiigo  crBdr.it  4t'iC^lcl<Kk 
in  tfebei»aftcinoQa>  <  Thb  aeek  liad  mnSkd  to  trgfatt^  cx^^ 
tent^Jttid  pirt  of  the  bndge  iros'gone^  so  tfant  we  ooiikl 
ndt  get'OiPb?Ttfae«liige  norhoifles.  Wegot  aoraii  inth»the 
raatt^  wIMi  we  delivered  at  the  poHt-of&oe,  whoe  we  wa^ 
inibiinMl  that  the  Oeorgetown  mail  had  not  arm«i|iand 
sr   jc  wne  iet  fittt,  at  length,  at  a^misendde  IMepUne; 

W^  ^whole  rf <y  conaialed  of  onljr  about  15  or  iK)  hoiv. 
sea^as  for{Niblic  buildings^  there  wete  none,  but  "there  waa 
a  tcdembly 'good  wooden  buildings  at  whidi  I  waa; tald  * 
Scot8BMiiJDe|it>a  dry-godda  atcae.  Ay,  lfaioka^i4to«nif^ 
aeift^  iHotwithatandmg  the  eminent  wvelchediieiBtef  the 
phMyu^Skmmlers  haa  found  out  that  8omediiii|^!ia  to  be 
done.haei.w  Movxeveti  Padd^vn^  nsA  behimli  hand  with 
himir   ^he  greater  part  of  the  other  inhalntants  wcaie  Irish 

1^  tolok  i^^my  lodgings  at  the  head  «oi  ^theie  w^«e  two 
in^^Git^)iraiid  I  fouiid  my  kindlord  »  civilf  obligpg  Ut- 
tleibiel)iian. « <  1  told  hiaii  my  adventuieai  in  ^he^ta^e  inm 
Lui^nbB8lo%  at.  wiueb  Iwl  laughed  heai«yiyjohaerykig,  ^f  By, 
Jhii'if'-Tf^^'j'iou  fftual^^^  toufh  time,ofiit^>«iid  PU 

warranttyou;  have  found  ^^v^^ound  ol  youc  atdamchi 
m^mje^  the  old  woman  will  have  some^ogita^tpri* 
sqatlyv  and  Pll  oeeto  have  a  little  bit^af  beal;.aBd/4lKitt^ 
it?ii  ^t,  we'll  ha^e  plei^^  vegetabliea  te^  ind««mie 
poraloes,  the  9eed  of  wMch  I  got  irora^  iiM  Mand ;  and 
intheineilntime,  wi^M  juat  ba««^li^iciRQp&cifxaemetNing 
tM|i0)(^  peace  and  good:^i»0itoii^^ 
like  to  see  a  eoun&ymann  and  although  you  j»e  oat  |uala 


SOUTH'  C(MKIU1IA. 


26g 


■QiB» 

mm 
bthe 


»  hoot. 
»  waa 

tKKinf- 

id  with 
Irish 

two 


p.,  iiii.i 

It' 


t':>«linA 

;  jmd 


oMMii'juMW-nathcr,  yet  you!ve<  tlifr  flext  door  ndghbour 
toU^'Midrilat  oomet  to  tte  aunvtfaiiig*"  So  aaying,  he> 
srtjrf*^  #vg  thettteoeMnr3>  oidars  about  the  dtnner,  nd 
'soan  iMianwd  with  the  bottle^  attended  by  the  doctor  of 
thr^it^  whom  he  hitrodiioed  to  me  as  a  countryman, 
•*  «d  oKimiieat  a  feUow  as  ever  crossed  the  great  sea.** 

rWMk  <we  were  regaling  ouraelvfes,  the  doctor  was  seiz- 
edswith:  an  ague  it :  *'  Och,  now,  doctor,**  says  the  biid- 
Ifli^^*  wkat^s  that  fbr^  ydu  should  leave  die  like  o'  dMt 
tD<iiie^  who  am  a  trained  hand  at  it ;  it*8  I  that  can  rap  it 
away  to  some  purpose  when  I  begin.**    And  he  soon  did 
begin  to  rap  it  away,    fit  was  sdaed  with  a  violent  fit 
I  fctt  fer  diem  at  first ;  but  when  I  observed  their  wo-be- 
gone 'Oountenanoes  and  odd  gestures,  i  could  not  help 
oonipiriRg  them,  in  my  imaghntion;  to  Shakespear*s  ad- 
mirable nrnUe  of  '*  Patience  on  a  monument  smiling  at 
gfie^*'  and  was  obliged  to  burst  out  into  a  loud  hoiglik 
The  hmdlord,  forgetdng  his  ague  fit^  joined  me.    '<  By 
ni|r'  should'*  stfys  he,  **  you're  a  pure  one.    I  believe  now^ 
if  fou  were  to  be  here  beside  liie,  widi^dntiiAry  fiioe  of 
ysilr  own;  you  would  do  m^  mere  good  than^  the- doctor 
wiA  all  his  mcdi^nes.  Doc£tor,  why  don't  yon  shove  dwt  > 
nsGidly/ague  about  its  bukmess^  and  join  me  and  the  gen-^ 
deinmrin  the  laugh?'*    The  doctcsr^  smiled^  which  was  att 
tfae^length^he  cotdd  go;  howevcri  they  soon  got  clear  of 
their  8lial»i  and  we  sat  down  togedier  to  dinner.    **  Ay, 
tUs  is  something  like  civilizatibn,'*  says  I,  potting  my  fork 
imo  the  sak  beef;    ^^  Now  would  you  have  expected  that  1 
oould  have  mustered  you  up  a  little  bUof  stuff  Hke  tfaatf  *f 
said  the  iandkircL^  Noiveataway  heart%i  and  make  your- 
sdtf^  hoBie,  md  here^s  some  poratoes  for  you,  a^  mmt 
swett.poeatoes^  andi^iere*A^some  bdtiia  and  turnips;  take 


% 


# 


some  o'  lkai^u^4WBA^mms.can^bnt4,  tfHEUpMiiMhcie 

nviit  go6d fiire,  thougfa^ve heve^ot  iiito« qtnetmotmef-iki^* 
wopld-lBalringpla8e.^''.'r  •    •  ^^'  -•■«•-  ■ 

The  oibkMift%iiidnc»  and  good  lamiaiirdl^^:dib«^ 
abk  IfkhnMn^  beguiledythe  tbne»  alid  reconcikdt»e  n>  a 
dctentkift  of  two^s  at  thi^  place,  wbich  would  othor. 
wiatkafietbeeiialinoitiiitideiabkei  for  there  watBolain|igk 
^extemal  cib|ect  fagratify  the  lenses,  the  glorious  efblgaMK 
tti^a  braght  aun  exeepttd^  I  The  nveatbea  waa  ekar  and 
4)eaut^;  ,  .' 

W«dMada5r,aSli£    ilhftCksoiige^oivii. stage  anrivedj^ 

te  other  niMl  filoi|i  ^  inorthward,^  so -^we  gol  idie¥«d| 

fifcuft  our  eanfinemcnl  «t-S  okdoek ;  and,  luddhig Jifieii  to 

'ibeiBgteaabloiiaahniiiB  and<  his  fiunilf,  nvft.  set  out  ..In  tht 


1      i 


ThWht  coiintif  conUmied^  lua^beftBife,  iat  ?iH|d*«andf^v  aijc 
D^lta,  1  tot  Black .  liverf .  ivhieli*  ive  paaaed  1^  t  imiodfo 
%ridgtt.  ^f'lmisf  faiidge^  hadr  teen;  tscotovfivhich:  ivaa  tho 

the  stage,  and^* though wnowie* 
ifc  was  s^  ill  a  very  shattered^ataiet  ^Aick 

iliwer  ripea  near  Caaadenfiflndy'TUBnlngt  a  aoutb^iiat^eoiinei 
ii&r  intei  the  IMat  Bsdeei^  a  Ittle  above  ©Mgeiown. 
Phe  i^oad  <p<intoicd  pfiet^  g«x3<d,  biitf  the  bridger  >wae^  ki 
vtTf  bad  ordir,  'aiidF'  we  "passed  manf  of  thcfim  v^lbr  dis 

^^Ib^iHy  ia  hetiMalergBcted  #i^  eieek^  in  «tt  difectionii 
l^ll&  Mehed  Ckoif^ihif  i^  n^lee  iroiA/M^iteon^^  atO 

^H^dki^  in'  thtf:tvittAig.'>^'**i  .^-i^^jri  M!i^i^=|«'fi:vi"i*;7>:^#^-^i^<^' 
^iiieinrii  wj»  agii^eiEii^ 
iMIiti  ivho  had  been«N90Mddef«i>le*tii^ 
Ii6y)te  with  rne^ln  ©li^fow;  -  We  ii^iirk  tnul 


imkbitti 

Biaclt>iw< 
flOOOinhi 

fnar^'^iexci 
pivdeidaii 
kandlfkb 
honaeaan 
Thejiriftt 
cfUBcopidi 
we  npiflii^ 
. '"^99ie'4uti 
wnuM  ai 

Thtirsda 
■pi  tnikiiu 
tfbut  ^n 

SwtOKv  V  j 

Anigk*^ 
ate  ^'tMuidsjti 
»iiiindlf<i£i 
tenn  itraa  n 
to^cidnsiat  ( 
alitde^Mo 
and  bru^.i 

ittid  becomi 
Wivelyo/if,j 

tfai  south  bi 
6antee  lis 
formed  by  t 
teree^  in  tiic 
"pwardsof 


soom  .OkBouvA. 


271 


Nhttc 

kagne. 
neioa 
kodwr. 

blgenoe 

tnd 


vedjaod 

■IBilBVQI} 

adieu  to 
kts.m  tfas 

woodta 
was  the 


#iAii;  ]iiiBli%i  tbe  nolo  av^^vhen  irs^lHnil  thii  m 
iiovkhtinnL  tafedlK^lo^Oliirltetfl^^ 
'  r  ^iiiuy iiawi  jb  ditiMted'  at  te  emimBoe  wf  Pcdce  and 
Blick  ny«f%  •  1£  jbika  ftoaa  the  ada^  and  coMaina  about 
flOOO  ■duibitant&  It  ia  the  only  aca^poct  in  South  Cam- 
ina/.^inBoept  GhaHeatoHy  and-  haa  a  oonaklBwbte  tnde, 
pirtieuiirljr  iniioe)  of  iiirhich  it  ipaaid  that  the  Jimdsiin 
iii  neitfhbomhood  yredttcc  30^000  tiaroeainniially^.Tfe 
hoiBMi  avr  moBlijrt  buik  of 'inrDod^  >  aiid  are  but  indifeont 
The  tiriftd|»l  pdhMo^bttikiMga  ws  i  €0^  V^fttk 

cpjacopiili  ofamth^  «  pnabylftfial^  ehnfeh,  one  ibr  bnptiali, 
one  he  tMMk^  wd  A  flmiiiahing  acadenly.  ^  ^ 

oS^eiottuatioa  ia'iinfaeakhy  in  the  idl,  but' the  wintere 
w  nttM  and  pltaaMit 

Thursday,  16th,  we  left  Georgetown  at  3  o^ck)ck»li 
#  tnikniinf^  ind  Uavctted  through  a  kvel,'>  sandy  |k^» 
ihout  |sS  ikiUea^  w9i^  #e  ipasixd  the  Aohh  brmeh  o£  the 
8aBieR>  vfrnni  ifaenoe  tfaet«  b^a  vwy  ^nmddy^^awaniti, 
AngkiiiuGhtthire  ia'H  oaliseway*'  Bikivoa(uen«y8lici« 
ill  ;iCitir^F-/i^KflaBQnt^<#thn'vwfaat '  Jthioy ;  lipe  JndfiritMtii  >i  -i 
n<iiniHy<<fti|itaN^  tb  find  a ^vealettti pg jfconea^  urivinihe 
term  was  mad^  use  of;  instead  of  whioAi,  Ifoiindthem 
to^ consist  of  pieces  of  wood  hud  across  die  road,  with' 
a  tittle  space  between  them,  which  is  fiUld  up  with  earth 
and  bru^-wood ;  but  thb  soon  wears  away,  when  the 
Rttd  becomes  exceedbgly  rough.  Over  this  we  had  to 
tmvel  jolt,  jolty  jok,  jo/f,Jfijr  two  miles,  when  we  passed 
tfai  south  branch  of  the  Santee^^and  hada  good  level  rood^ 

Santee  b  the  largest  river  in  South  Carolina,  and  is 
formed  by  two  very  large  streams,  the  Cpngeree  and  Wa- 
teree^  in  die  intericM'  of  the  country.  Whence  running 
upwards  of  100  miMt  in  an  east^south-east  direction,  it 


•. 


A 
-t 


602 


« .^ 


fy^'^ft 


.•'. 


^idet  ibaui  iifukt  above  wImto  we  crcmad  it»  Mid  falls 

into  the  Atluitie  Oocan,  bf  two  clmndt  not  ir<  i^mm. 

The  WatocOMet  m  the.  tot  oT  the  niountahi»  m  North' 

^GafoliBa,  where  it  iadenominrtod  the  Catewfan,  tad^  pmr. 

suing  a  Kxith^ent  {Qounoy  iaii)oined  by  many  tiibutwy 

streams,  'mA  ferms  a  junction  with  dw  Congeiee,  upwwife 

lOf  SKX)  jpnilcs  fiom  its  source.    The  Congeree' rises  afao 

in  Ngrth  Carolina,  «nthin  a  few  miles  of  the  Catawba,  and 

pursiiia  •  smithNcast  oouno  about  70  tnks,  when  it  gtob. 

^aes  the  stale  Bno^i  and  runs  due  south  about  SOlniles;  h 

then  runs  south-east  about  130  mites,  and  ferms  the  junc. 

^tion  aforesaid.    In  its  ^lassage  through  South  Carolina,  k 

;ieaeive»  III  great  many  tributary  streams,  some  of  which 

^ne  terge  rivers,  particulariy  the  Tjrger,  £nneree,  aad 

"lleidyi  rivers.  "^^    ■ .  ■  .  '.'.:■,  •    _   .v^k  » 

^'^'fhkty  nnlest  i/om^  Oeqrgtiown^  we  stopped  iat  dis. 

«fer,'  wiMse^ikne  had  a  rnew  of  lAm  Athntic  Ocean  $  aid 

a|^  was  'MwibI  timea  repeated  in  oUr  jaunifcy  onwari 

4|i1iere  was  no  other  varie^,  te  the  eouiottjois/oni^cA 

sandi'flal,  ii^lh  dilfUiig  ^  suid  >  and  pMie  (treo^  "Snt  da 

was'tteUg^Hfid.  ^tpeiieaehed  €haiks|lit-'»at-6| 

f4aN)lo6k^ki'«he^dveiling<v  ^'^'^^  rr 

,■.■•    • 


!^'}    ■  ^T 


lii  -i 


■  r 


As  it  wa 

CharieslU, 

kw  days  tc; 

On  the  c 

by  a  friend, 

As  we  retu 

us,  whom  I 

ofDoctqr,s 

Qntain,    T 

^non  the 

Jib  "  it's  all 

^    "tWiy,' 

i^Mnistiy  w^ 

"it  appears 

ingefots  tc 

very  importa 

in  po^jirer." 

,  seem  to  undc 

try;  he  was  1 

«iolly,  good- 

^;  and  I  si 

an  American. 

liis  animosity 

derstood  that 

VOL.   p. 


SOOTH  0A10U1I4*    k 


T 

1373 


1^        /.'*.^' •■ '?*•>;■= 


»«i<M3HAPTBR  XL. 


Charleston, 

'A      .  /"''''■ 

AS  itjj^ras  of  importance  to  make  some  anrangements  at 

ChariedRm,  I  wrote  to  Savannah,  and  in  the  interim  had  a 
&w  days  tp  spend  with  my  friends. 

On  the  evening  of  the  20th  of  October,  I  was  invited, 
by  a  friend,  to  take  a  ride  to  the  west  end  of  the  town* 
As  we  returned,  a  gentleman  on  horseback  came  up  with 
us,  whom  my  friend  femiliarly  accosted  by  the  appeUatioa 
of  DocU]^,  and  introduced  me  as  a  stranger,  recoitly  froni^ 
^tain*  The  doctor  immediately  entered  into  converaa- 
tipn  on  the  affiiirs  of  that  country*  "  I'm  afraid,''  says 
In,  ^y  it?s  all  over  with  th^^  empire."  "  How  so?"  asked 
I.  ",Why,"«  says  he,  "  it  appears  to  ms^  that  the  present 
ministiy  will  ruiii  the  country."  *'  Why,  now,"  said  I, 
*'  it  appears  to  me,  on  the  other  hand,  that  they  are  mak» 
ing  effixts  to  save  it ;  at  least,  I  thuri^  they  have  taken* 
very  important  steps  with  that  view,  since  they  have  been 
in  po^firer."  He  ireplied,  very  dogmatically,  that  I  did  not 
seem  to  understand  it ; — ^the  men  were  ruining  the  coun- 
try'; he  was  sure  of  it ;  he  saw  it  very  clearly.  He  was 
a  jolly,  good-looking  man,  with  a  drab  coat,  and  a  white 
hX\  and  I  supposed  him  to  be  a  doctor  of  medicine,  and 
an  American.  But  I  was  surprised  at  hb  violeiv^,  and 
his  animosity  to  the  whig  party ;  for  it  was  generally  un- 
derstood that  .^y  wore,  much  more  favourably  disposed 


VOL.  T. 


2  H 


'*i 


274 


TB4¥MLS  tir;«  » 


toiyiirds  Ai9#icd^^^lheirxpredecesbors.  When  he  had 
expressed  hi(f|jKnn||ptB,  I  adverted^to. that. favourable 
circumstance,  wdstatedy.  that,  having  been  very  lately  in 
the  country,  Lhad  paid  a  good  deal  oC  attention  to  public 
aifidn^,  and  was  pretty  ivell  acquainted  with  the  policy,  of 
the  ministry;  so  that  I  ought  to  understand  the  subject 
at  least  as  well  as  those  who  lived  3000  miles  distant;  and 
if  he  would  g^ve  me  leave,  I  would  state  a  few  particulars, 
which  he  would  find  to  be  highly  in  favour  of  th^present 
administration.  **  You  are  entirely  mistaken,'^  slid  he ; 
"  people  who  live  here  can  form  a  much  better  judgment 
on  the  conduct  of  the  British  gpvemment  than  those,  who 
are  on  the  spot.  But  what  d'ye  propose  to  tell  me?  can 
you  mention  a  single  instance  in  which  they  dqxirted  from 
the  policy  of  Mr.  Pitt ?  Can  you  mention  one?  I  defy 
you  to  mention  one.'^.  I  instanced  1^  aiternpi  to  give 
peace  to  ihjfir  vounti^ ;  ta  restore  re^giousjreedom  to  the 
Bonum  eMthoiice;  to  dmcHtateJoreign  powers  ;^  but,  above 

all,  TO  PUT  AN  Elf DvTO  THE  TRAFFIC  |N  HUM ANr^F^$S||. 

He  passed  ovef  aU  these  circumstances  except ^th^vi^ist, 
andi  fixing  on  it^  ^'  But  Mr.  Pitt,"  says  lie,  **  advocated 
the  abolition  as  well  as  Fox."  **  He  did  so,"  said  I, 
^^.  but  in  SI  very  i^iH^fwX  manneri  and  with  a  very  different 
affect J*^  "  And  I  diink  the  worse  of  hkn  for  so  <toing,'^ 
said  he;  *^  there.,  I  think,  he  was  an  enemy  to  his  coun- 
try /**  **  I  understood,"  said  I,  "  that  you  approved  of 
the  measures  of  Mr.  Pitt.»r  ."  And  so  I  did."  .^^  Well, 
th^^  in  supporting  the  abolition,  was  he  sm  enemy  to  his 
country?"  "  No,"  said  he,  ♦*!  don't  think  so \  for  I 
helieve  he  was  not  sincere P^  "Not  sincere!"  said  I. 
"  Sir,  you"  place  Mr,  Pitt's  memory  in  a  very  extraordi- 
nary point  of  view.    If  he  was  not  sinpere,  lie  was  a  con- 


summate 
to  your 
"  Ay,  h 
"  Cases  c 
honourab 
and  detfe! 
not  disgi 

to  such  a 

fitrdus.^' 

toour^e 

enfoitesit 

but  our  re 

not  have  1 

friettd.  ««^ 

reader  will 

pedients!^ 

this  advoci 

Igospelof 

reoommen« 

I'Wasvai 

i^ich  timi 

whenihavii 

ingly  impat 

sage  by  th 

o'clock  in 

I  was  aei 

when  the  d 

waEs  out  of 

axid  sent  foi 

I  believe  gi 

pally,.  I  attr 

IwasafWrv 


■ 


* 


SAUTtt  CAROLINA. 


275 


saiAiliKiCr  hypocrite.  If  he  was  ■  nmoati  then,  laHcdbi^g 
to  your  opinion,  he  was  an  enemy  to  his  country.'*-— 
"  Ay,  bttt  there  may  be  eases  qf  expediency,**  said  he. 
<*  Cases  of  expediency !"  said  I.  **  Sir^  truth  is  sinqsle  and 
honourable,  and  requires  no  expedients.  Falseliood  is  base 
and  detestable,  and  all  the  expedients  in  the  world  will 
not  disguise  it.^~Besides,  to  apply  cases  of  expediency 
to  such  a  momentous  concern  as  the  slave  trade  is  mon- 
fitrdus.^The  laws  of^morality  require  that  we  should  do 
to  our^eighbours  ais  ive  would  be  done  by;  humanity 
enfortes  it---chri8taanity"— -I  was  going  to  say  enjoins  it ; 
but  oUr  roads  lay  different,  and  we  parted.  **  You  should 
not  have  been  so  severe  upon  the  -doctor,"  observed  my 
frietid.  "  Who  is  he  ?"  said  I.**-4  was  astonished,  and  the 
reader  will  be  astonished  to  learn,  that  this  approver  of  ex- 
pedients !*-^this  supporter  of  the  measures  of  Mr.  Pitt!*^ 
this  advociate  of  the  slave  trpde!  wad^a  minister  of  the 
l^ospel  c^  Chfist ;  and  was  sent  out  to  Charleston  on  the 
reoommendaUon  of  the  late  Dr.  ^air  of  Edinburgh.     ? 

I  was  variously  employed  in  Charleston  pntil  the  21st,  by 
which  time  I  had  got  all  my  arrangements  completed, 
when^  having  no  letter  from  Savannah,  I  became  exce«hi> 
ingly  impatient  to  be  gone^  I  accohiingly  Itook  my  pas- 
sage by  the  mail  stage,  and,  as  it  wad  to  start  at  ditiap 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  wetit  to  sleep  in  the  stage-house. 

I  was  seized  with  a  alight  fever  during  the  ni^t,  and 
when  the  departure  of  the  stage  was  announced,  I  found  it 
Wiis  out  of  my  power  to  proceed.  I  got  very  anxious, 
and  sent  for  a  doctor,  who  piescribed  some  medicine,  and 
I  believe  gave  me  a  very  improper  dose,  to  which,  princi- 
pally,. I  attribute  a  severe  stomach  cotnplnint  with  ^vhich 
I  l¥as  afterwards  afflicted., -fDc  fv' ;,.;'■■><•!  ;.i:mi,/  '40''  ra;!©?!'^ 


276 


TBAITBLS   Ilr>* 


In  this  ^Hnaddii  Iwas  greatly  assisted  b^r  a  young  Irish- 
man, who  came  to  lodge  at  the  same  house.  H6  examin- 
ed into  my  situation,  told  me  he  had  beeh  Served  in  the 
same  way  at  New  Orleans,  and  prescribed  somb  niedicine 
to  countertict  the  effect  of  the  other,  which  was  successful, 
and  in  all  probfdsility  saved  my  life; 

During  my  confinement  there  was  a  remarkable  change 
of  weather ;  the  thermometer  fell  suddenly  fit)m  75*^  to  48^ 
I  was  told  that  such  changes  were  f  ery  common  ||iere,  in 
the  spring  and  fall. ' 

Charlestok  is  elegantly  situated  on  a  point  of  land 
at  the  confluence  of  CoGper' and  Ashley  dvers,  which  form 
the  harbour,  one  ^  the  most  convenient  in  the  United 
States;  The  ground  on  which  the  city  is  built  is  low, 
but  it  is  opAi  to  the  sea  breeze,  and  is,  Up6n  the  Whole, 
one  of  the  most  i^igible  situations  ih  the  tow  coiihtiy. 
The  plan  of  the  dty  is  regular,  th^  s^ets  crcfssing  each 
other  at^ light  angles;  biit  many  of  them  are  too  niartow. 
The  houses  are  partly  built  of  Iwlck,  aind^partly^  df  wood; 
and  many  of  them  are  etegant.  They  arb  about  5000  in 
number,  and  the  eity  con^s  about  24,0Ck)  inhabitants,  of 
^^idiom  nearly  one  half  are  slaves.  The  public  buildmgs 
ace  la  court-house,  eiidkange,  college,  armoury,  three  banks, 
18  ^aoes  of  public  worship,  alms-house,  orphans-house, 
bid  ■'  The  markets  are  kept  in  pretty  good  order,  but  pro- 
visions are  dear^  and  are  not  so  good  as  in  the  ncMthem 
cities.  'There  are  few  manufactures  at  Charleston;  but 
there  is  a  very  active  commerce,  particularly  in  the  winter 
season ;  and  vast  quantities  of  shipping  are  constantly  ar- 
riving and  departing,  which  keeps  the  city  very  lively. 
Tl^  principalf foreign  trade  is  to  Europe  and  1^  West 
Indies;   of  Which  Britsdn  occupies  a  large  share,  and  a 


■•^ 


South  cAnoLmAi 


2tti 


•IHsh- 
xamin- 
in  the 
[edicine 
cessful, 


''to48^ 
|iefe,  in 

of  land 
iehform 
rUtuted 
1  is  low, 
e  whole, 
country, 
ing  each 
►  riartow. 
bf  wood; 
5000  in 
itants,  of 
>uil^gs 
»  banks, 
is-house, 
butpro- 
northem 
iton,  but 
le  winter 

itly  ar: 

Uvely. 

West 

anda 


cbiiSdeliible  "portiQii  is  apprbpriated '  t6  Glasgow^  '^  The^ 
grdat  artidies  for  cicport'  are  cotton  and  rice,  particularif^ 
the  ibmver;  and  the  ^  imports  consist  of  East  and  West 
India  goods j  groceries,  and  British  msihtifiicttjres.   Beades* 
this;  there  is  a  very  iextenstve  trade  to^the  northern  states, 
in  which'  many   regular   packets  are  employed.      The^ 
citizens  are  esteemed  hospitable  aid  poUte,  of  which'  I 
found  many  instances.     They  are  mostly  aU  dretKed  in 
British  manu&ctures,  so  that  ibt  cukivatkni  of  this  trade 
is  an  object  of  considerable  importance  to  that  country.' 
A  more  than  ordinaiy  prc^xirtion  of  the  population  of 
Charleston  is  blacks,  occassioned  by  the  circumstance  of  its 
being  the  only  port  in  the  United  iStiites  in  which  they 
can  be  imported ;  but  it  is  supposed  this  branch  will  not 
long  continue. — From  the  light  of  reason,  of  ^philosc^hy^^ 
and  of  religioh  that  is  eve^  where  shiiHing  around  u^^  may 
«e  not  hope,  that  t|ie  time  will  soon  anriye  whenman  di^ 
qo  more  deal  deceitfully  with  his  feUow,  but  justice,  and 
righteousness^  and  niieny>  will  extend  over  all  the  earth?  " 


/-■  • 


^ 


■  »i 


.^■:.ft 


^ 


'.'«ri5^, .-:;^*i^tjitfi^'^?'rt;  J.;-y:u^ri;::t:ri  ir^n '':;:'*u'>- J  "'  .  V^^ ; .-: It^h 


/# 


"snB 


6QI7TH  Ci^OLINA> 


'^ 


CHAPTER  XLt 


South  Carolina. 

m.     ■ .  ,■:>    ■  -    ■•  ■■      • 

1*HIS  state  is  tttuatted  between  ndrth  latitude  32^6'  and 
35**,  aiid  west  Ibngitude  1^:  30'  and  6°  25'.  Its  extreme 
length  from  east!  to  west  is  236,  and;  breadth  from  north  to 
knith  210  nulesj  and  it  i^  computed  to  contain  an  area  of 
33,880  square  mile^  being  21,683,200  acres. 

Sduth  Carolina  has  a  sea  coast  on  the  Atlantic,  extend- 
ii^  neai^l^  200  miles,  to  which  all  its  rivers  flow.  The 
io^Iie'ofihe^oastli  from  north-east  to  south-iirest ;  and 
ibearlyparallelwitfi  this,at  about  120  mikd  from  the  coast, 
^  first  high  lahd  commences.  The  whole  of  th^lnter- 
Ihe^te  ^pa(j6  is  n^Iy  a  cohdni^  teVd^  the'  aiig;]e'  of 
a^ent  being  sb  trifling,  that  the  rise  at  the  extremity  pro- 
bably does  not  exceed  15  or  20  feet.  From  the  com- 
ftiencement  of  the  high  lands  the  &ce  of  the  country  is 
Variegated,  and  agreeably  uneven,  swdling  sometimes  into 
considerable  hills;  and  this  continues  to  the'  north-west 
extremity  of  the  state,  where  it  is  bounded  by  the  moun- 
tains. 

The  state  is  remarkably  well  watered:  The  Savannah 
river  forms  the  boundary  line  between  it  and  Georgia, 
through  its  whole  course.  This,  and  some  of  the  other 
rivers,'  have  been  noticed ;  beides  which  there  are— 
^ '  Cooper  and  Ashley  rivers,  which  form  a  junctibn  at 
Charleston.    Cooper  river  rises  about  50  miles  N.N.W. 


SOUTP  OABOUKA. 


279 


of  Charlestoii«  not  fear  from  the  Santee  river.  It  b  a  mile 
wide,  nine  miles  above  Charleston,  and  is  navigable  taits 
source,  from  whence  there  is  a  canal  to  the  Santee.  Ashley 
river  rises  to  the  north-west  of  Charleston,  and  derives  its 
principal  importanGe.fi:x>m  the  oircumistance  of  its  forming 
part  of  the  harbour  of  that  ci^. 

Eduti)  river  rises  near  the  extremity  of  the  low  country^ 
and  runs  a  south-east  course,  including  its  windings,  of 
150  miles,  whenit  enters  into  the  Atlantic,  by  two  princi- 
pal channels,  called  north  and  south  Edbto;  The  space 
between  them  forms  the  Edisto  Island. 

Cam^oA^^  river  rises  near  Edgefield  court-house,  and 
running  a  south-east  direction,  upwardst>f  160  miles,  Ms 
inta  St.  Helena  Sound.  ^ 

Coosaw  river  rises^,in  Orangeburg  (Bstrict^  anc|,  running 
asQuth-east  course,  throu^  Black  swamp,  fi^s  mto  Broad 
river^  which  last  is  an  arm  of  the  sea,  in  son^e  places  Tor 
S;4niles  broad,  and  fopms,  at  Beaufort,  one  of  the  finest 
harbours  in  the  United  States.  Beaufort  and  St.  Helena 
Islands  are  formed  by  the  confluence  of  these  rivers  and 
inlets ;.  and  there  is  a  spacious  entrance  by  Port  Bepfibl^ 
eqri,  formerly  termed  Port  Royal. 

The  principal  mineral  is  iron,  which,  indeed,  is  found 
in  great  plenty  in  al|  the  states ;  and  gold,  silver^  and 
copper  ores  have  also  been  found  here.  Marble  has  been 
found  in  some  few  places,  and  also  black  lead.  There  are 
several  valuable  mineral  springs  in  the  state. 

The  whole  of  the  low  country*  presents  an  even  regular 
soil^  formed  by  a  blackish  sand,  and  pretty  deep  in  those 
places  where  there  are  no  stones.  S^ven  tenths  of  it  is 
covered  with  pines  of  one  species,  which,  as  the  soil  is 
drier  and  lighter,  grow  loftier  and  not  so  branchy.     In 


flome  plaoes  th^y\are  interspersed  witli  qiri(^.  The  pine 
barrens  lure  crossed  by  little  swamps,  in  t(ie  inidst  of  which 
|;eneraUy  flow&  a  rivulet,  and  they  have  different  degrees  of 
fertility,  indicated  by  the  trees  that  grow  on  them.  |nthe 
upper  country,  the  n^^tfertije  lands  are  situated  upon  the 
borders  of  the  rivers  and  creeks ;  the  lauds  that  occupy  the 
intermediate  spaces  are  much  less  fertile.  The  latter  arc 
UOt  much  cultivated;  and  Hl^oa/t  who  occupy ^them.  are 
obliged. to  be  perpetually  clearing  them  to  pbtain  more 
abundant  haryeiits.  The  forests  are  chiefly  composed  of 
oaks,  hickory,  maples,  and  poplars,  Chesnut-trees  do  not 
begin,  to  appear  for  60  miles  on  this  side  of  the  mpun- 
teins*.  •  •   ,  .     .;  -■;  ,.,  ,  _     ..*.     ■, 

The  cUma$e#in  the  low^  country  is  materially  differed 
from  that  in  the  upper  countiy,  the  former  being  much 
less  congenial  to  health  than  th&.]atter.  The  summers  are 
exceedingly  hot  and  sultry,  and  the  heat  abates  but  little, 
except  in  the  evenings  and  mornings,  till  past  the^^middle 
c^  October.  From  the  first  of  July  to  diat  period,  the 
country  is  in.  many  places  subject  to  much  sickness^  par- 
dculaply  bilious  fevers,  agues,  ^c.  The  fall  weather  is 
generally  beauttful^  and  continues  till  past  Christmas;  the 
ava*age  teae^perature  is  greater  than  an  English  summer. 
The  winters  are  generally  mild,  and  there  is  very  little 
frost,  but  the  weather  is  sometimes  subject  to  great  and 
sudden  changes.  The  spring  commences  about  the  mid- 
dle of  Februaxy,  and  they  have  often  green  peas  in  the 
market  by  die  middle  of  March ;  but  the  weather  intermits 
very  much  till  about  the  first  of  May,  when  it  gets  steadily 
warm,  and  continues  increasing  with  the  seasor«  till  Sep. 
tember^  when  it  be^s  to  abate*|^f  ^^most  every  person 

-  *  Michaux.  t  Ibid. 


SOUTR  CAKOLIKA. 


Ml 


who  can  afford  it,  removes  to  a  more  healthy  situatton  dur* 
ing  this  period,  and  a  vast  number  goto  the  northern  states 
in  summer,  and  return  in  the  fdXbf  The  period  of  going 
north,  is  mostly  £rom  tl^  middle  of  May  to  the  middle  of 
July,  and  of  returning,  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the 
middle  of  November.  The  anxiety  that  prevails  during 
that  period  is  extreme ;  and  when  it  is  over,  the  inhabitants 
congratulate  one  another  with  the  full  prospect  of  10  or  11 
months  being  added  to  their  existence.  In  the  upper 
oountry  the  summers  are  much  more  temperate,  and  being 
removed  from  the  swamps,  there  is  no  sickness.  Towards 
the  mountains  the  climate  is  delightful. 

In  1662,  Charles  II.  granted  to  lord  Clarendon^  and 
odiers,  a  tract  of  land  extending  fh)m  north  latitude  29°  to 
36^  3lVand  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which 
they  called  Carolina. ,  The  first  permanent  settlement  was 
made  at  Charleston,  under  their  direction,  in  1669.  The 
cultivation  of  rice  was  introduced  in  1690;  and  of  cottcm 
in  1702.  In  1728,,  the  country  was  divided  ii^to  North 
and  South  Carolina,  when  there  vfere  14,000  whites,  and 
20,000  negroes  and  Lidians.  Indigo  was  cultivated  in 
1745.  South  Carolina  took  an  early  and  decided  part  in 
the  struggle  for  independence,  and  sent  delegates  to  the 
first  congress.  In  1790,  she  adopted  the  present  state  con* 
stituticm;  and  now  s€;nds  two  senators  and  eight  represen- 
tatives  to  congress.  .<, 

The  state  is  divided  in  26  judiciary  districts;  and  some 
of  these  are  subdivided  into  parishes.  The  population,  in 
1800,  was  199,440  fi:ee  persons,  and  146,151  slaves,,  in 
all  345,591,  being  about  10  to  die  square  mile. 

The  state  advances  in  improvements  and  population; 
but  the  increase  of  both  being  principally  in  the  upper* 


VOL.  I, 


2n 


292 


TBAVBLS  IM 


cQuntiy,  are  not  seen  by  strangers.    Except  Charleston, 
there  are  no  towqs  of  material  consequence. 

C0I.UM3I  A,  on  the  C^pgeree  river,  120  miles  from  Char, 
leston,  is  the  seat  of  government,  and  is  a  place  of  consider, 
able  trade.  **  The  number  of  its  houses^does  not  exe^d  200 ; 
they  are  almost  all  built  of  wood,  and  painted  grey  and  yel- 
low; and,  although  there  are  very  few  of  them  more  than 
two  stories  high,  ;they  have  a  very  respectable  appearance. 
The  inhabitants  of , the  upper  country,  who  do  not  approve 
of  sending  their  provisions  to  Charleston,  stop  at  Coliunbia, 
where  they  dispose  of  them  at  several  rc^ctable  shops 
established  in'the  town.'' 

The  above  account  is  given  by  Michaux,  who  travelled 
through  this  place  in  1803;  and  a  continuation  of  the  ex- 
tract presents  a  picture  of  the  country  between  Columbia 
and  Charleston.  -      ^ 

**  Columbia  is  about  120  miles  from  Charleston.  For 
the  whde  of  this  space,  particularly  from  Orangeburg, 
composed  of  20  houses,  the  road  crosses  an  even  country, 
sandy  and  dry  during  tfie  summer ;  whilst  in  the  autumn 
and  winter,  it  is  su  cov^ed  wiik  water  in  several  places, 
lor  the  space  of  eight  or  ten  .miles>  that  the  horses  are  up 
to  thdr  middles.  Every  two  or  three  miles  we  met^th 
a  miserable  logThouse  upon  the  road,  surrounded  with  lit-; 
de  fields  of  Indian  com,  the  slender  stalks  of  which  are 
very  seldom  more  than  five  or  six  feet  high,  and  which, 
from  the  second  harvest,  do  nc^  yield  more  than  four  or 
fiv9  bushels  an  acre.  In  the  mean  time,  notwithstanding 
their  sterility,  this  land  is  sold  at  tlie  rate  of  two  dollars  per 
acre."  Beaufirt  contains  about  1000  inhabitants;  and 
there  are  several  smalkr  towns  containing  firom  100  to 
500. 


SOOtn  CAROUNA.  5288 

Aft  there  is  a  material  ditference  in  the  soil  and  dimate 
of  die  upper  and  k>wer  country,  so  is  there  in  the  produce. 
The  produce  in  the  low  ooiintry  is  mosdj|kottoh  and  rice, 
with  articles  necessary  for  the  subsistence  of  the  negroes, 
particularly  Indian  com.  The  sea  islands,  and  low  lands 
along  the  coast,  produce  cotton  of  the  long  staple.  In 
the  interior  it  is  principally  of  the  short  staple. .  Rice  plan^^ 
tations  are  established  in  the  great  swamps,  and  the  har- 
vests are  abundant.  Throughout  the  whole  of  this  district 
the  agricultural  labours  are  performed  by  negro  slaves.  In 
the  upper  country  the  produce  is  more  diversified.  They 
raise  no  rice,  but  they  produce  cotton'  oi  the  short  staple 
in  very  considerable  quantities,  and,  besides  Indian  com, 
they  raise  wheat,  rye,  oats,  and  barley.  A  great  pert  of 
the  agricultural  labour  here  b  performed  by  the  white  peo'> 
pie;  said  so  great  is  the  difference,  in  this  respect,  fix>m  the 
k>w  countiy,  that  we  may  reckon  there  are  two  white  per- 
sons to  one  black,  whereas  in  the  other  there  are  two  Uaoks 
to  one  white  person*  ^^    • 

The  manviactures  of  this  state  ane  mostly  of  the  domes- 
tic kind,  for  family  use,  and  this  kind  of  industry  is  in* 
creasing;  but  such  is  the  quantity  of  produce  suitable  for 
foreign  Jnarkets,  that  the  state  canries  on  a  very  active  fo- 
reign commerce^  of  which  a  great  proportion  is  to  Britain. 
The  articles  exported  are  chiefly  cotton,  rice,  and  tobacco. 
The  imports  consist  of  British  manufactures,  wines,  and 
^roce^ies.  The  exports,  in  1805,  amoui^sd  to  9,060,625 
dollars,  of  which  5,957,646  doUars  was  domestic  produce ; 
and  pifobably  three  millions  more  are  exported  through  the 
Medium  of  the  northern  ports. 

The  operation  of  filaveiy  to  so  great  an  extent  produces, 
of  course,  the  same  effects  here  as  in  other  places;  hut 


•9^ 


gM  TEAVSL8  IN 

the  people  have  considerably  improved  in  education  and 
morals  since  the  revolution.  It  was  customary  for  a  long 
period,  for  the  ipiore  wealthy  planters  to  send  their  sons  to 
£^urope  for  education;  and  even  now  they  fiequently  send 
them  to  the  northern  states;  but  the  practice  is  gradually 
declining,  and  the  desire  has  become  general  to  have  re. 
spectable  seminaries  in  the  state.  A  college  has  been 
founded,  and  very  respectably  endowed,  at  Columbia; 
and  there  are  several  other  colleges  and  academies  through- 
out the  state.  The  towns  are  pretty  well  supplied  with 
ppmniOQ  schools,  but  they  are  defective  in  the  country;, 
and  this  branch  of  education,  being  the  basis  of  the  morality 
of  the  state,  deserves  the  early  attention  of  the  le^siatuie. 
,  The  civil  government  is,  like  that  of  the  othei  states, 
legislative,  executive,  and  judiciary.  The  lefriitlative 
power  is  vested  i];i  a  general  assembly,  consisting  of  a  se- 
i^e  and,  house  of  representatives.  The  senators  are  cho- 
sen for  four  yeara,  and  one  half  vacate  theu-  seats  every 
two  y^ffs.  They  must  be  thirty  .five  years  of  age,  and 
possessed  of  a  freehold  *estate  of  the  vaiue  of^300  pounds 
sterling,  clear  of  debt;  a|id  the  electors  must  be  possessed 
of  50  acres  of  land^  Qr  a  tbwn  lot,  or,  have  paid  a  tax  of 
three  shillings  sterling.  The  representatives  must  be: 
twenty-one  years  of  age,  and  be  possessed  of  a.fitJchoW 
estate  of  150  pounds,  clear  of  debt;; and  the  electora  must 
havje  the  same  qualifications  as  fpr  senatora. 

The  executive  government  isvested  in  a  governor,  cho- 
sen for  twoyears,  by  the  legislature;  and  the  qualifications 
to  fill  that  office  are,  that  he  be  thi|ty  years  of  age,  and  be 
I^sspd  of  1500  pounds  sterling.  .^  ,,,,,,.  3>v^,^.^  .^^    .'*; 

Th^  judges  pf  the  siyierior  courts,  comimssioners^oflhe 
tr^ury,  secretaiy  of  state,  and  surveyor-general,  are  all 
elected  by  the  legislature. 


\ : 


GtOBOU» 


V3 


CHAPTER  XLH. 


,  •-, » ■-• 


A 


Charleston^'^^Socvarmah  river ^-^^ Savannah. 


ti 


Saturday,  October  25th.  Having  been  eight  days 
ilk  Gharieston,  without  httiring  from  Savannah,  I  got  much 
alarmed  for  my  friend,  and  reserved  to  depart  forthwith, 
notwithstanding  I  was  in  a  Very  poor  state  of  health.  I 
accordingly  engaged  a  passage  in  the  Delight,  captain 
Cooper,  and  went  on  board  in  the  afternoon.  We  set  sail 
at  5  o'clock.  It  was  a  fine  clear  evening,  but  I  was  sick; 
and  could  not  enjoy  the  breeze  nor  the  scenery.  The 
wind  was  fiivourable,  and  before  midnight  we  Were  in  sight 
of  Tybee  hght-house.  I  went  to  bed^  butBlept  little;  and 
when  I  arose  in  the  morning,  I  found  we  were  sailing  up 
Savannah  river' with  a  £dr  wind,  which  continued  till  we 
reached  the  city.  '  As  we  Were  drawing  towards  the  whar^ 
a  gentleman' of  my  acquaintance  passed  lis  in  a  boat ;  and 
sb  great  was  my  anxiety,  that  I  could  hardly  put  the  gene- 
ral* question,  *'  How  are  you  all  in  Savannah  ?"  The  an- 
sweir  was  such  as  I  dreaded:  **  Your  friend  is  not  very, 
well."  I  was  dreadfully  a^tated,  and  could  hardly  pro- 
nounce the  sentence,  "  He's  not  dangerously  ill,  I  hope." 
**.  He's  pretty  bad,'^  was  the  reply.  It  went  to  my  heart. 
The  power  of  vision  and  of  hearing  forsook  me;  my 
limbs  tottered  under  me;  I  lost  all  sense  of  recoIlectiQn> 
and,  in  diis  state,  was  conveyed  to  the  wharf.  But  I  sooi^ 
recovered  frx>m  xx^y  reverie.    The  powers  ofmyn^nd  nd- 


aii 


TBAtELS  IX 


lied  their  force,  and  the  passion  of  grief  took  the  place  or 
lethargy.  I  was  almost  choaked  with  'th6  violence  of  my 
passion,  and  could  hardly  support  myself  to  the  top  of  the 
bluff,  when  I  was  accosted  by  a  friend,  who  tokl  me  my 
presence  was  very  much  wanted  in  Savannah.  This  gave 
my  mind  a  fresh  duYction.  I  armed  myself  with  resolution. 


.»» 


**  That  column  of  true  majesty  in  man ; 

and  determining  to  brave  all  difficulty  and  all  danger,  I 
made  the  best  d  my  way  to  the  house.  I  found  my  fitiend 
in  the  agonies  of  death.  I  spoke  to  him,  but  he  understood 
me  not.  I  looked  in  his  &ce,  but  oh !  how  altered.  His 
eyes  were  sunk  in  hn  head,  and  his  coldur  was  quite  yel- 
low. I  seized  his  hand,  and  it  was  quite  emaciated.  The 
iiand  of  death  pressed  heavy  upon  him,  and  all  I  could  now 
hope  for,  was  to  mak^  myself  understood  in  takmg  a  sor- 
rbWfUl  farewd.  I  mentionied  my  liame,  on  which  he  rais- 
ed hb  eyes ;  he  looked  wistfully  in  niy  face ;  he  pressed 
thy  hand  with  fervor,  sayihg  faititly ,  «  Is  it  you  ?"  arid  fell 
back  ihhis  bed,  and  soon  after  expbed! 
*  Thus  I  lost  an  esteemed  friend,  dnd  1$^  business  lost  the 
services  of  a  valuable  ybung  man,  on  wh6m  I  had  placed 
great  reliance.  His  conduct,  durii%  the  whole  of  odr  short 
connexion,  "w^  i^ch  as  to  give  me  every  satisfkcdonc  and 
to  secure  my  utmost  confidenc^e.  His  loss  was  painiul  as 
a  friend— -as  an  assistant,  irretrievable. 

-In  the  mtan  time  the  whole  of  the  business  devolved 
upcm  me,  and  siich  was  the  mass  <^  matter  tiiiritkgli  which 
I  had  to  labour,  that  I  hardly  ever  enjoyed  an  hour  of  recre- 
ation or  repose  for  the  space  of  two  months ;  and  my  health 
was  re-established  very  slowly. 


u 


GBOIQIiu 


S87 


In  other  respects,  matters  were  favourable.  By  dint  of 
vigorous  exertions  I  got  the.wliole  of  my  business  airang- 
ed  to  my  wish,  ind  my  accounts  from  Britain,  both  of  a 
public  and  private  nature,  were  flattering.^ 

The  non-intercourse  act  was  suspended,  in  consequence 
of  which,  a  qua  itity  of  our  goods,  that  were  seized  under 
its  operation,  were  given  up  free  of  expence. 

Mr.  Fox  was  dead,  but  his  friends  remained  in  the  ca- 
binet ;  and  every  thing  seemed  to  promise  a  continuance 
of  a  good  understanding  between  the  two  countries,  on 
which  my  whole  fortune  and  future  prospects  depended. 

My  feelings  were  highly  gratified  by  an  act  of  the  Ame- 
rican  government,  abolishing  for  ever  the  slave  trade ;  and 
it  appeared  that  a  similar  measure  would  be  adq>ted  in  Bri* 
tain-  >  .    ~ 

I  found  the  inhabitants  of  Savannah  hospitable  and  firiend- 
ly ;  and  was  much  pleased  with  the  attentioa  of  those  of 
tbem>  with  whom  I  had  occasion  to  associate. 
.  Under  all  these  circumstances,  it  became  a  question 
whether  I  would  form  a  new  connexion,  to  supply  the  place 
of  my  friend,  and  go  on  with  t^  business,  or  whether  I 
would  wind  it  up.  After  much  deliberation,  it  was  deter- 
mined to  carry  it  on.  A  new  connexion  was  fiormed,  and 
I  prosecuted  the  various  arrangements  connected  with  it 
with  all  the  vigour  in  my  power. 

Having  all  these  completed,  I  prepared  to  leave  the' 
United  States  for  Europe ;  but,  before  I  embark,  I  shall 
td(e  a  general  review  of  the  state  of  Georgia. 

V   .1 

.    ,..  .    ■-  St 


28b 


QBOBGI^; 


V^-    4V':W^:. 


CHAPTER  XUn^  #Wii^^ 


Georgia  ^^^ 

Is  situated  between  north  latitude  30°  30i  and  35%  and 
west  longitude  3°  50'  and  9"  5'.  Its  exiremr,  length,  from 
north  to  south,  is  305  miles ;  and  its  extreme  breadth  259* 
Its  area  is  about  60,000  square  miles,  or  38,400,000  acres. 
^  This  state,  like  the  Carolinas^  is  naturally  divided  into 
two  districts,  the  upper  and  the  lowef ;  of  which  tl)te  boun- 
daiy  is  remarkably  well  defined.  Augusta  is  on  this  Mne, 
on  the  Savannah  river,  irom  whence  it  passes  to  the  west- 
ward by  Louisville,  and,  at  theextremity  of  the  state,  pass- 
es  the  Flint  river  about  the  latitude  of  32°.  The  respective 
poitions  are  so  much  assimilated  to  South  Carolina,  that  it 
is  unnecessary  to  describe  them  here.  The  state  has  a  sea 
coast  of  100  mil^,  whicl^is  indented  with  bays  and.  inlets^ 
and  studded  with  islands,  well  known  by  the  name  of 
&a  Islands*  In  the  southern  part,  there  is  a  portion  of 
Eoke&noke  swamp,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  in  the 
world.  To  the  north-west  are  the  Alleg^y  mountains, 
vrMch  terminate  in  i^ii;}^  state. 

^  The  state  is  i«aiarkably  well  su^iod  with  rivers  and 
small  streams.  The  Savannah  river  has, been  dready  de« 
tsicrlbed.  The  Ogeeahe  river  rises  a  litde  above  Greens- 
burgh^  200  miles  from  Savannah,  and,  pursuing  a  r  south- 
east couirse,  &]ls  into  the  Atlantic,  25  miles  south  of  Sa- 
vannah. 


The 

)rhichtl 

tains,  al 

sotlth-so 

thence  c 

of  tribut 

imilgee, 

^n  east<» 

IM«rt,t 

frilihe'^ 

(talachyjr-^ 
itximsit^ 

hofthward 

western  >b( 
mSes  ttpi^ 

«»»^ly,al 

iterklai^ 
jiisuiii6#t} 

t8fliathr% 

feetdeepij 
^th  a  i«Me$ 

rannifiig,^b 

C8st  upon 
VOL.  r. 


289 


f^K. 


%  and 
i,  from 
th259. 
)  acres, 
ad  into 
sboun- 
U9line» 
fi  west- 
.e,pa8s- 
ipective 
I,  that  it 
asea 
Inlets^ 
of 
of 
in  the 
itedns, 


and 

rreens- 
»sauth- 
of  Sa. 


The  AUartmha*  iis  composed  of  a  number  of  brancjiieil,  6f 
irhich  the  largtst  is'  the  Oconee*  It  rises  near  the  motin- 
tains,  about  300  miles  from  Savannah,  and,  running  a 
sotlth-southrca6t  course,  is  joined  by  the  jippaiacht/,  tod 
thence  oontsEfuts  its  6oui^,  augmented  by  a  greiat  number 
of  tributary  streams^,  till  it  $>rms  a  junction  with  the  Oak^ 
Bfiulgee,  lOQ  miks  -from  the>^i!Qean.  From  thence  it  runs 
^n  east-south-east  course,  and'  falls  into  the  Atlantic  bekfW 
|M«n,  toi  #hich  his  havtgaBle  for  large  vessels.  ^  i  «" 
fr>Tjhe'  0«A;»wiitf^rfe  1  list  a  large  river  rising  near  flie  S^i 
(ta]achy,'4TimirWheof<ievita  it^'Cbnfltienc^  \^ith  the  Ocbnee, 
it iiuns' ripiwards  of  200  tnileslT  ^The  Utile  Ogeecfie  b  a 
ei^ilaUteirable  riverV'  )tnd  falli  info  the  Altttnaha,  from  th6 
hbitKwaidt  af^iWs  jiinction;.    ' 

n>^fh6  CSifofa/^rAj^  h  a  rtty  \at^  rivcP,  and  fbnhs  the 
iieatern-bQiindftiiy5?of  Georgif^  Mm  i^er  Florida  line,  125 
liiiies  tip  tile  coiirttiy;  It  risesc^^tthe  fbot  of  the'  moutt* 
lAti^  il^'thf  hea4  of  iBavfinnab  rite^i  aiid  jrutis  soiith-w^t. 
iterdly,  ab«*fie  SOOfifwies,  t6  wli^  itforins  the  state  lind 
Fldm  th«n(ice^it  p^i^ues  a  c6u«lr  a  little  east  of  sbitth,  to 
Hbriaa,>Hte«;it  C^ms  a  junction  ^With  Flint  rivei^,  aind 
fllnuni6#  the  name  of  Apalachicola.  '  From  thence  It  ruhs 
»  8duthr%  east  cotinse,  80  milesj  to  the  gulph  of  Mexico, 
iiMclfr!b «iii^  by  sfeveral  mouths;  *      •  ""  "^■ 

4*#(&f^  f#<?r  »  Abbut  300  yatds  bft)ad,  iid  12  or  15 
feet  deep!)  it  riseaneai*  ^e  Oakfmulgee  river,  ahd  hms, 
#ith  ai(^l^|ygentle<ct]itent,''a  course  to  the  West  of  south, 

^m^Mitr^b  river  rises  in  Eokefanoke  swamp,  and 
rttftnii^^about  100  miles  by  a  very  crooked  cotirse,  but 
ettit  upon  the  whole^  forms  the  boundti:y  between  the 


VOL.  r. 


2  o 


1  .  ■; 


01 


iHHH^. 


a: 


United  Stages  and  East  Fldricli,  during' its  whole  pintage, 
and  MU'  into  the  sea  at  St.  MiDry^  utrhere  it  forms  a  good 
harbour^  V  .  ":-<,'d-v' :■•,•., 

*  The  soil  nfid  diMat^  sili  both  asshnilBted  to'Sidttdi  Ca^ 
rolina.  There  is  a  great  proj^ioti  ef  gbod  hold  in  upper 
Qiedi^i  and  the  8ea4slands  ^  niintefQut  anid  fich.— 
Lower  Georgia,  being  farther  to  the  abuth,  is  a  Kttie 
waMer  than  South  Carolinal 

*  The  first  setdefnenr  of  G«»ir^  was  'inade4h  173^ 
vMkr*  ttie  dir^c^n  of  9^  soc^  of  gehtleiiibi,  Who  ided 
as  trn^iyii;  dnd  lieiMt  Ogkdior^kndiM  aii^'Savitinah 
wflir  liar  sfettlenc  •  Mi:^!!^l3!v^i^ 
i^hkiider^  frdk  Sdoi^md^^^d  170^^  motpa 
slifl^r^  isevei^  ki  the  i^btilglie  1^^  a^SS^ptSAdtaobi  tM 
4sts  frtxjiiMltf)^^  The  state  €6il9titiition 
wb  adored  in  17M  Geb^  tk>#  l^^i  iwb' aenftton 
aid  teur^^tfjirekiAati^  «^^ 

^ll^mte  k  divided  l^o  iS^  coifiitei|  lid^^l^ 
tfe  j&^dfy  distrial.    The  jijpMdj^^l^^htf^i 
nMy^-  ^^02;if87'«be  person«;'ifrd  S^mWxm, 

IB^tJfe'sqn&reinife;'^*^^'*^    -^  -    ■  '  ^    '■  ■■■'-^'^  t^^  ^■' «•« 

^  TKife  M'  \M  ie#  Ww^  in  GediPp/    Siv^hlh^and 

llij^iist^  have  been  noticed.  ^Tlie  odieri  iflNiloiif^^^  s^^ 

^iedforitiic  waters.  ^^^'-^  ^-^ 

f^  fiesidls  Skviani^sdi'ind  Angust^^  there  k^  dh  the  ^an^ 

tfili  l^e^,  a  litde  tov^eailed  JV^^^#ti%^  %id  irr  ti^  ihte^ 

Mori  between  t)i(^  Savahri^*^^  OgMhe,'li  /IP^IjAdi^^ 

Bodi  these  are  thiitiftg  places;*"  *^**^    ' 

#^Oa  tfiS  Oreat  Ogeed^,  thinie  in^;*bife8ilfc#t.d^»^ 

I^J^^d  Otemimri^,     ^  w  > 


party  JV 
Athenif 

QttS 

soutJieq 

Thi?  I 

l9r  to  th 

Agre 


fif^^blishJ 
of  the  n^ 

looUngat 
^jexamp 
miles,,  on]} 
(Muet^  the 
»drtWi  I 
school.    0 
^ndthoae^ 
inow  than 
QM»ibei  fq 
the  case,  a 
-  Befive  ta 
^  best  pla 
to  appropris 


CWO|MIik« 


^n 


ige. 


upper 
ch. — 

■>,  * 


tkution 


t^CftA* 


L 


'''mm, 

Si  Aivan^ 


^VJ 

^ 

(THle, 

.-.a 

■■  ■■.^. 

'it:^ 

.  Oaiiie  :AU»in«ha  imd  its.wgtera,  Dorien^  a  jkw  seiM 
porty  MlJ;L^BCr^yiLL£»  tjiif  new  seat  of  government,  and 
Athenit  the  seat  of  a  college. 

vQp  3lU  ]^laiy'&  i^yer  is  the  town  of  St.  Marjf^^  at  the 
southemCYtneooi^  of  the  state,, 

Th^  agriculture.^d  produce  of  tlie  9tat^  are  nearly  simi-^ 
lar  IP  those  of  §9Uth  Carolii^.  ^^^^  ^^^^,  i 

A  great  degree  of  attention  has  been  paid>  ip  Geoi|;iai 
tx>.€d4i.QatiQP,^,  ^nd^tsty,  cQns^  have  been^^p- 

]ffopriat^.to.th(^  j|^ppp^t  of  it.  The  college  at  Athene  is 
amply  endi^wed,  and  ppovis^  ia  made  for  establishing 
^id  ke^piiigDp  an  academy  in  every  coun^  in  the  state. 
In  1^1^ ^towna^, there  are  very  good  commoii  achools; 
Imt  tl^  atate  ia  yet  defective  as  to  the  establishment  of 
these  .most  juseful  se|ninaries  throughout  the  country.  Xt 
fiiauld  be»mentioned»  how£iver,  that  in^this,  and  all  the 
southern  sts^s,  the  population  ia  too  tliin  to  admit  of  the 
egtabJishflficnt  of  school  upon  the  plan  of  the  townships 
of  the  nprlhern  states,  or  die  parishes  in  ,Scodand.  By 
looking  at  the  censa9|  it  wiU  be  seen^  that,  in  this  state, 
fbfvex^mpl^  a  townslup  of  spc  nuks  square,  or  36  square 
miles,  only  contains  about  112  persons;,  from  which  if  we 
d^UjClthe pcqxiftion  of  black  people,,  it  leaves  only  75; 
vAf  t}^  iwimbeK  wpuld  not  be  sufi^cient  to  support,  a 
schod.  On  the  other  hand,  there  b  much  waste  land^ 
i|Dd  those  di^tricta  that  are  settled  up,  often  contain  much 
move  thi^<  t^  proportion  %  sometime^,  indeed,  a  sufficient 
QUBibei^  foR  Ithe  purpose  mentioned.  Whenever  that  is 
the  case,  a  school  should  be  established. 

Before  taking  leav^, of  thja  subject,,  I  may  nodce,.that 
the  best  plan  of  establiishing  counti^  schools,  probably»  is 
to  appropriate  a  public  fund  equal  to  one-half  oi  what  may 


s^ 


■*r* 


d92 


amomwAi 


i-* 


• » 


be  conmlefed  a  reasonable  salary  to  ^'teabherv^and  let 
him  depend  on. his  class  foriilie  other  half^  This  appears 
to  be  ft  happy  medium  between  the  plaii  ^  allowing  the 
teacher  to  depend' wholly  on  his  class,  and  that  of  provide 
ing  a  public  fund  for  the  whole  of  tl^  sakfy*'  >In  the  one 
case,  the  teacher  is  not^  sufficiently  independent ;  ki  the 
other,  education,  by  being  made  too  ohaapy  is  not  suft- 
ciently  prized.  In  the  way  pointed  out,  the  independence 
of  the  teacher  is  in  pott  seeuredj  and  the  dependence  on.^ 
contmgency  for  the  remaindier  has  a  tendency  to  stinnilate 
both  teacher  and  pupils  to  exertioit.  <      < 

In  all  cases,  provision  should  be  made,  that  the  children 
of  the  poor  miay  be  taught  gratis.  Good  education'  is  a 
'bles^ng  of  inestimable  value  to  a  community,  aiid  should 
be  within  the  reach^of  everjr  member^ 

vThe  constitution  declares,  that  '*  arts  smd  scietices  shall 
be  piromoted,  in  one  or  more  seminaiies  of  learning;  and 
the  le^lature  shall  give  such  further  donations  and  privi^ 
leges  to  those 'already  established,  as  may  be  necessary  to 
fiecuxe  the  objects  of  their  institution.'^ 
^1  On  the  subject  of  religion,  it  is  declaitd,  that  ^^^tto  per- 
son withm  die  state  shall,  upon  any  pretence,  be  deprived 
q|^  inestimable  privilege  of  worshipping  God  in  a  man- 
ner^lgieeable  to  his  own  conscience,  nor  be  compelled  to 
attend  any  place  of  worship,  contrary  to  his  ovm  &ith  and 
judgment ;  nor  shall  he  ever  be  obliged  to  pay  tythes,  taxes, 
or  any  other  rates,  for  the  building  or  repairk^  any  place 
t>f  worship)  or  for  the  maintenance  of  any  minister  or  mi- 
mstry,  contrary  to  what  he  believes  to  be  right,  or  hath 
engaged  to  do.  No  religious  society  shall  ever  be  estab- 
lished in  this  state  in  preference  to  any  odief;   nor  shall 


anyop 


.  Thi 

ing»of 

and.a>j 

Ihe 

persom 

^vote. 

% 

latBie. 
The 

* 


%i   '• 


\'"J 


OBOHGIAtt 


S99 


nd^let 

ppesur^ 
ng  the 
irovid- 
the  one 
m  the 
it  wSh 
sndcnce 

tiimdate 

»■• .'» 

children 
^onf  isa 
d  should 


any^  perscnt  be  deaiedi  the  enJQ3Piiient«.of  any  dwil  rights 
joecelfeoB  apcoimt  of  ieligkius<priii^  .,     *m»^«. 

ii  The  civil  government  is  vested  in  an  assembly,  consist- 
ing^oCa  senate  and  house  of  representatives,  a  governor, 
and  a  Judiciary. .       '     ^     :  ,  ^j^ 

v.  Ihe  assembly  V are  elected  annually,  and  all  fitee  white 
vpersons,  who  are  of  age,  and.  who  have  paid  taxes,  have  a 
jirote.  ■  ■;  ■     .     w . 

V ;  The  governor  is  appointed  for  twof  years,  *  by  the  k^s- 

The  judges  are  elected  by  the  legislature  for  three  yieari. 


*ii.;»-.^  t 


Kses  sludl 
mg;  tod 
ndprivi- 
lessary  to 


Ifttopcr- 

.'■-„•  ■  >.■•■: 

deprived 

V.---: 

•     -' 

n  a  man- 

i      ■      .'■    .  ■ . 

ipblledto 

''"      ■  ,        ■          ','    ■ 

V      .,■     .    ...    '!,'          ..■    .      . 

faith  and 

li*  !  yy- 

<t?4          44».  -^    ■-       ■ 

les,  taxes, 

,#■*  ^r'     •  ■ 

■  ^;iy.-;t.:^  ^fi'^: 

anyplace 

•^iMt  T^-' 

i.              ■         ..''■■_ 

cr  or  mi- 

■^    >•'; 

■ '  '     ,■                               •        i-         * 

;,  or  hath 

....  ;.    :. 

becstab- 

,.„.., 

'     .     '   '      ■■  ■ 

nor  shall 

1 

•§^^V 


If.,.  T'li-if  ■ 


.,,-r? 


¥ 


/    ■  ■>m 


->» 


904 


T94Yf  U  9N 


^* 


CHAPTER  XUV. 


m-^ 


Savannahy-^  Ships  6f  wary — Lwerpool, 

Sunday,  12th  ApnU  I8O7.  The  period  for  my  leaving 
SavannalY  being  arrived,  I  engaged  a  passage  by  die  Eliza, 
Capt.  Starks,  and  dus  racnming  went  on  board  at  Five 
Fathom  Hole,  at  nine  o'clock.  The  other  passengora  were^ 
two  gentlemen,  natives  of  Scotland,  settled  ^  merdmts  in 
Savannah ;  one  gendeman,.  a  native  of  Scotland,  iwhq  had 
been  Resident  in  Savannah,  and  was  proceeding  to  Liver, 
pool  to  setUci  there ;  an  English  gentleman,  settled  as  a 
merchant  in  the  upper  country  ;  and  a  young  gentleman 
from  South  Carolina,  who  was  going^^over  to  get  his.ed^ca- 
tion  in  England.  *  ^  ^. 

V  Every  thing  being  prepared^- the  ship  weighed/ and  pro* 
ceeded  down  the  river  with  a  fair  but  light  breeze;  but  oa 
reaching  Four  Mile  Point,  afew  miles  below,  the  wind  veer* 
ed about  to  the  south-east,  and  we  were  obliged  tQcome  to 
anchor,  where  we  lay  the  remaining  part  of  the  day,  and 
all  next  night,  tortpred  by  musquetoes. 
i^  Monday,  13th.,,  The  wind  having  come  round  to  the 
north-west,  and  blowing  a  fine  breeze,  we.  weighed  anchor 
at  10  o'clock,  and  glided  dpwn  the  river  very  swifdy.  At 
half  past  eleven  we  were  up  with  the  light-house,  and  at 
,twelve  we  passed  the  bar,  and  discharged  the  pilot., 

We  had  now  a  delightful  breeze.;  and  the  Eliza,  being 
one  of  the  fastest  sailing  ships  in  America,  and  well  trim- 


med, dn 

Capt.  S( 

his  own 

made  lee 

remarka 

the  ban) 

of  north. 

ward,  bu 

Wind,  w( 

'^thi 

Oil  gcttii 
««  lidrie 
Gtiimiig  al 
and  said  f 
ptpietes\i 
teit^naiit, 

«id  that  t 
ctefcioy.    \ 

*ifniifted' 

"Wn*  tJte''  V 

rcadung" 

cfim^iniein 

rtqtw^s^edt 
biwuit.    1; 

aitidiss  and 
turn  of  his 


THE  ATtAlM'tC  OCBAS. 


^^ 


.    4 

avmg 

Eiiza, 

t  Five 

iwere^ 

uitsin 

tiQhad 

Liver- 

;d  a3a 

itlemaii 


*!i- 


id  pro* 

butoa 

veer-. 

>nieto 

ly,  and 

to  the 
[suichor 
ly.  At 
and  at 

being 
U  trim- 


med, darted  through  the  ivater  with  great  rapidSf .    And 

Capt.  StarkS)  the  commander,  did  her  every  justice ;  to  use 

his  own  phrase,  he  did  crack  on  the  muslin.    We  seldom 

made  less  than  150  miles  a  day,  and  one  day  we  had  the 

remarkable  run  6(  253  ihiles.    iii  teh  days  we  were  p^ 

the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  after  which  we  had  &  seriei 

of  north-eftst  windt^^^  which  kept  tis  tob  much  to  the  south- 

ivard,  but,  as  the  Eliza  sailed  remarkably  well  upon  tho 

Wind,  Wft  Still  ndde  pustty  good  pro^ssl    '       '         ' 

'  (Dtt  the  27th  of  April,  we  discovereld  a  Vesaet  td  wind* 

ward  b^ihg  right  d6\(ifi  tkpbh  us,  M^bt  French  'ddour^i 

dU  getting  sufficieritiy  Dear,  she  fiiied^a  g^n  ahedd,  dhd 

we  k(3rie  to,  ndt  a  Kttle  apprehensive 'ttJT  the  resttlt.    Ott 

ecmiing  idongsideyih^  ca^in  hailed  il^ybrokeh  English, 

and  SEud  he  would  send  a  boat  abdiEttid'j&dcr/  i^iearcke  inJtt 

pupief^s.  -AboBit  v^  atfcordihgij^  di^^hfed,'ahd  the 

Ikiutdfiacnt/a  you^^  ^6otsmah,  juihpi%  abdard,  told  lis  tli^f 

the^sel  was  the  I^fer  sloop  cifMtai*,  capt.  Auguzies;, 

and  that  they  uted  the  French  flag  and  ftngilage  for' A 

Atcoy.    \V<gwere<JHighttdwitbtlSs^i^^ 

Mm  with  a  jglaas  i^  our  best  Mlidciirrf;  U&  hei  having' 

fttitoiin^d'ou^pJijieH  and  found  dri^th^'cbi^     told 

iii#b  ttiighrii^al^  ^  as  sobn^  ^'d£>^a^  ^  idgnsi 

fhwn  the  vcistei ;  sb  ss^liigj  he  jump^  into  ^  boat:   Oti 

read&ig  the  ship,  he  rigidft  i^tiirned^^idi^thi^'^^^ 

c6tn^iments,  who,  baving  his  kidy  aiidWd'chiidr^  k^bslr^ 

lequt^sted  that  we  woiflifl^l  them  sottiii^'sWefet  floiir  and 

Wscuit    We  itoicdisrf^  ttt       up  ah  iassortment  of  Aes^ 

airticiies  and  sttine  others/ \^ich  the  captain  sent  iviffn^  i^- 

tum  of  his  conipKrnents ;   ahd,  redeiVing  the  iiigniH,  We 

niife  sail,  and  ptticd  with  ^fititual  g(M  tHMic*.  ' ' 


■'If 


■;.j!.'7bf';  ii:wN~J>  .■  .'♦-■■:-  »"  » 


^^   .^i^» 


296 


x9 


Yf^^ttklfWLi  dN 


V  -'^ 


The  noHheriy  ndnds  stiU  continued,  and  the*  weather 
was  very  wet  and  cold;  but  we  made  pretty  good  pro- 
gress, and,  by  the  4th  of  May,  we  were  within  a  few  days' 
sail  of  Cape  Clear,  when  we  were  brought  to  and  boarded 
by  the  Dryade  frigate^  of  44  guns  and.  250  men,  captain 
Drummond  commander.  The  boarding  officer  here  was 
also  a  S0otsn>an>  and,  like  the'  others  |)ehaved  with  greal 
politeness.''  h  -     1  >  .' 

*  He  told'  us  they;  had  been  one  of  tiie  convoy  to  the 
West  Indi^  ileet,  ^  far  as  the  lati^ile  of  30° ;  that  they 
had  been  out  five: i^Keeks,  and  were^.to, cruize  betwe^  <thi^ 
(Jlhannel  and  Westen^  Islands  two  months.  He  reporfcrd 
their  longitude  [^aibe  ^^  54'  by  tiie  chronometer.  Having 
put  a  q!(i^tily,  of  fitters;  on  bo^ufd  for  pl^nf^andj  he  to^  U9 
wenugl^  9^  sail  fis,' sopn  as  thev  made  the  signals  ij;^  v 

.. ;  A|  we  Wf^fe'  laioyf^  d|mwing  near  our  native  shcrrc^,  and 
anticlpatii^g  {|^ppy  Ai^ting  with  our  Iriends,  we^weipeatt 
in  g9pd  ^iiit^i;  aild  ha^  various  tl^ea^cal  represent^^kp^ 
ih;0ie  ^Uiisfi^  grand  sultan  ^^d  his  faithful ;Aii 
Shaekabe6,iiithidhgrea^  astonished  ;aii0 
Ci6mpan^.^  iWe  bn^i^so  a  series  of  mpial  regi^i^^ 
which  Md  at  pretty,  severe  penalty  on  swearing.,  n  ItW"* 
appointed  tlic^  exequ£pr  of  this  branch  |[^  the  iaiyil^t  I 
sometimes  fou^d  a|djiffi.culty  in  putting/it  into  exj^iqutron, 
partiiqularl^rfi^itii  )ptir  Liverpod  merchant,  who^  wl>$^  w<^ 
reachiEid'the  Cliann^f  told  uS'  flatly,  that,  /being^nqw:  iM^  the 
British  kix^g'^  don>iniou8,  he  woi^;.swear<  if  lyeywerei  all 
d-^  piif^  As  the  gentleihan  was  tin((er  Me  |ff^t/ai(;e  ^ 
Mif  maiumyVfe  lyere  e-en  obHgedrto  submit  to.rqy^  autho: 
rity,  (and  the  fines  w^ere  thenceforth  remitted.  .. >  ^ni'. 

We  passed  C^  Clear  on  thelOth^  ai>d  hadaiineifiew 
of  the  Irish  coast,  iirom  the  cape  to  the  Old  Head  of  Kin- 


sale.  At 
boot  cam 
suadeus, 
and  that  V 
die£Uza 
all  hi»  cai 

"I^etty  \ 

onl^  ^  back 

aQd^teU^^y< 

you,'^«id 

about^  it  all 

nvthyouHM 

gieatfaigsi 

aying,he] 

^^Onthe«J 

sBntB^fipom  1 

lotted  the; 


«iiam 

tktwe  wer 

JMjj^  from' 

staled  fbimi 

pair  some  ti 

Abbut  4 

btttlhe  wine 

tfe  progress. 

pwnd,  and 

s%iiidf  whicl 

board. 

We  imm 
news,  Imt  he 

VOL.  I. 


w 


THE  ATLAMTIC  ilyCEAN. 


297 


sde.  As  we  glkkd;  along  with  a  fiur  wind,,  a  little  pilot 
boat  cttne  off  from  the  land  to  meet  ua^and  tiy  to  per- 
suade us,  no  doubt,  that  there  would  be  a  ^Ai/6f^storm^i 
and  that  we  must  take  a  pilot  and  run  inibr  the  jCoasL  But 
theCliza  outsailed  hkn,  atel  he  feU  a,|ittle  astern.  He  had 
all  hi»  canvas  hoisted  to  the  breeze,  but  without  effect; 
<!B3r  J<A-<-s ! '.  you  sail  d-^ — d  sharp,  cftpt^in,"  aii^  he. 
"pjretty  well,"  said  the  captam.  *'  Now,  if  you  would 
only  ^back^  your  ,^mizen-8ail  a  bit,  J,  would  come  aboard 
aikk<  tell:  you  all  about  ithe  land."  /'  Thanlc  you,  tbw^, 
you,''  said  the  captain,  ",  but  I  Mppen  to  know  spmeil^ing 
about^ it  alieady."  "Then  you  may  go  to  the  mischief 
widi  yourself,"  exclaimed  Paddy ;  "you'll  be  xatched  in  a 
gieal  big  stoiin  to-night,  and  the  d--r-l  make  mattei,.'/:  1^ 
saying,  he  put  about  and  stood  toward  the  coast.       ,     -^ 

'On  the 4 1th  we  passed  the  Cove  of  y^Cork,  whicjb  4)R;!i. 
sents^mm aea a mo6t< picturesque view«  .Qn ,thie  14^ w^ 
piBsedthev usurious!  i^^  rock,  well  know^,^;  sci^men 
hf^^iht  :name«  of .  Tusear.  Next  moinding  we  were  round 
Steito-l^trwhen  we  werr  envel$|>ed  #  a/ogi«fq($,tbick 
thttt  we  were  obliged  to  lie  to.  Here^we  found  tp^^farig 
Im^  from'  Savamiah,  in  the  same  situation.  Shevhad 
soled  fiEHirtfeen  days  before  us,  and  was  likely  to  g^j^ito 
{Kxt  some  time  after  us.  ^      s^ 

Abbut  4  o^dock  in  the  afternoon,  the  fog  q|eanei|;away9^ 
but  llie  wind  veered  about^  right  ahiead,  and  we  made  li% 
tte  prc^^fess.  -Next  morning,  however,  we  were  on  pilot 
ground,  and  soon  discovered  a  boat,  to  .which  we  ^lad^, 
s^nai^  wluch  was  answered  ^y  putting  one  of  her  hands  on. 
.  board.  ■'•^ ' 

We  immediately  flocked  round  the vpilot  to  learn, the 
newsybut  he  could  teUm  mthing,  except  th^t  there  was  a 


VOL.  I. 


2  n 


jitiw  .election  in  Livopool.  He  could  astugn  no  reason, 
t^iitsaid  it  was  thougbt  Mr.  RoacoeJWQukl  QOlbftiiBembei' 
again  j  we  w«r«  lost  in  coi^cture.  t  I       -  ife  i^t  -^^f  ' 

i  The  head  winds,  continued*  and  we  did^nofc  make  the 
nortk^weat  buoy  till,  the  a4lhf' when*! we  wop©  obliged  to 
,comi^  to  anchor,  Dunngthe  night  it  blew  a  furious  gale; 
aat  wtipere .  ^  at^  anchory  abi?eaat>  of  thft^^S&st-anchored 
isle, V  we  did  not  ieel  it  much,  but  a  pretty ,  lively  idea  of 
it  ^ma)r^be  fomied^  ton.  iki^  eap^^  account  ;*hie  said  f^  it 
waft/enpMgh  tobtowthe  baipiout  of  afetto^ahead*"  The 
gale  ^iQQntinuei^iaU.ii@xt  ^yviu^  Ihem  wa^  no  possibility  of 
g^^^ting on  sh^)re,  ihoug^^t  wore  ^evy  anxious. ;  At  length, 
adt«Q«ii  11^  a^.^ot  boat  hove  in  sights  and  we  imtde 
aigiial  Jbr  jher.  >  3hiBn€2ime  ^ong^  md%acidt<lientn€M^^^ 
yawl^ii^to  whid^  the  passengers  got^ith  oonsidtf9ble»di^ 
fi«»}t3Fi  and,  suck  was  the  swell j  thai  iweweifei^JWje'^^^^^^ 
ilijth^  300^9^  iiiljn]^^  of  i^g^«ps«feb«foi«rJ»Jft  ^ 

W<^!^ere  iPc^iiip^^d^^fcK^^t^^ 

We  g^t  foifi/^^^i^Js^mi  pot<ito^ia|)d  M^0m»fmr 

pers^  s^d  here  I  made  the.  discovery,  that  a  gi^t/pqlitiad 

change  J^d  talseri  plac;e  jun  Britain,  wlu^  itUgorod  ioiost 

impprts^t  cQiisequenGestathe  world;  aad  par^i^ttlaf ly  to 

|hat  portion  ^f  it  vye  had  lately  Mt-rrAjn/^vm*  » 

^ ;  At^cme  o^k)^  we  landed  at  Hoyle-llke^^tifh^re^  ^lakik- 

^,Qpd  forx^ur  and  ki^g  iCHjr  par^  ear^,  we 

Ipaj^^d^omw^-  tpii  tayern  in  the^neig^ibburhoodt 
^^iil|aying,^ati:^  laviein^  procuied^^  s^^  h!(»'ses,rand  a 
g|]idibi;|f>  accompany  u%,!»^  ait ooutfor  Liverfiooli distant 
about  jeven  milcs^  and  a  piet^  respectable  caval- 

caije.    In  cprv  way  m^  Jeiyoyed  the  land  soeneiy  is  much 
0  i^  WustCTiDg  weath^^^?^^  W^  we 


i^j^-im^'i  .tm 


THE  ATLAKTIC  OCBAN. 


isi 


were  about'half  way^'lTodc  towardt  the  guide, imd  aaked 
howinvrnvfat from  Liverpool.  '*  Moed  I  doan't  know," 
said  he;  '*  Oh,"  said  I,  **  I  presumetyou  are  a  stringer 
here  a»  well  as  myself.'*  **  ,^nanJ^*  said  he.  *'  Anan!'?  re- 
peated li  wHh  surprise,  ''^  why ,  I  suppose  you  have  never 
travelled- this  road  before."  ^'O  yeaz,  zur,  an  hundred 
tfmes."  **  What,  and  don't  know  the  distance  we^haveyet 
to  fjo  !**  "Ko  I  doan't"  **  Nor  the  distance  we  have  come?" 
<*No^no^thBt1leather."  «*Nov  the  whole  distance?^' *<N^; 
i^  knowiiow  to  get^  ihear,  and  I  know  how  to  ^get  hack 
sgiean/'and'thaf  s  all  I  know  about  the  meater*"  ^ikre  is 
iii'^retty  specimen  of  mtelligence,  Uiinks-I-tO'>m3rselfi<  Only 
tldt^  of  thtt,  master  Brodcf  and  contrast  it  with  the  keen 
inquisitive  disposition  and  shitwd  answers  of  a  A4»i^£ng-^ 
land  mAn. 

^ WettiSlcbed  ihe  feity  about  4  o'cloek/  and  immediatiely 
etoBsed'^iver  to  Liverpool,  where  we  agreed  to  readesvous 
Sf te  King^s  Arms  tavern;  and  constituting  the  Liverpool 
melchant  imr  steward,  to  bespeak  a  dinner,  we  took  each 
0oriteveral  way,  as  bui^ness^  or  friendships  directed^ 


m 

i'ttmTiimf-  • 

i'lf 

**  ■■  ->mmt^^' 

'I- 

. .    ■', 

.•!>•> 

'     :    •  ■  ■■      .   • 

•1    i-;.        .     '1    ■     ■      -    /■          ■■        ■    '  '       A*.    [         ■      '- 

J     ^  ■..>.- 


^^ 


%--!\.  r  ■  :'j!»Tiy"-  %  --^'k'T." 


•'**- 


f^im 


300 


tBAVBLS  IN 


'^"H*' 


'^'■■^-mm^M- 


CHAFTfiR  XLV 


m 


m  •' 


*^  £ioerpo6ly''^Electi6n^^^Chamng  the  members. 

aFTER  partmg  with  the  company,  I  went  immediately 
to  the  ooffee-house  to  examine  into  the' causes  of  the  change 
of' councils;  and  to  form  a  judgment,  iF  possible,  iHiat  ef. 
feet  the  measure  would  have  upon  the  Amofican  trade.  I 
took  a  file  of  the  London  Couriei  on  the  one  hmdj  and  of 
the  Morning  Chronicle  on  the  other,  and  traced' the  whde 
proceedings,  step  by  step,  titt  I  came  to  lord  OrenviUe's 
explanation  in  the  house  of  lords,  and  that  of  Mr»  Grey 
ifi  the  commons.  I  saw  that  bigotiy,  prejudice, 'illibetali- 
1y,  and  corruption,  had  prevailed  over  virtue,'patriotisni, 
and  integrity.  I  exclaimed,  woe  is  my  country  1  and  with 
a  heavy  heart  went  to.  j^in my  eompanionsai  the  dinner 
table*   '-    ■'         '■'■^■w-M¥#titi*i»-'  ■ '■  ,■■.,.,>  ■, 

1*  The  next  object  of  inquiiy,  and  inf«  wlach  i  was  most 
deeply  interested,  Was  the  probable'^  efiect«  that  ^fMs  change 
would  have  upon  the  American  rekitions;  and  here  again 
my  anticipa^ns  were  fer  from  bdng  &vouiiri)Ie.  1  ob- 
served diat  one  pat  of  the  play  upon  the  passions  of  the 
Engliali  nation,  and  a  very  «ucce8sfol  Okie,  was  to  hold  out 
the  idea  of  a  .**  universid  monopoty  of  trade."  The  doc- 
trine was  openly  and  loudly  promulgated  by  ^  newmi- 
nistry  and  their  partisans :  That  there  was  no  use  irfe  hav- 
ing a  naval  force  created  at  such  an  expence,  unless  it  was 
90  organized  and  condacted  as  to  controui  the  trade  of  the 


IBiraLAHD. 


301 


irorid  in  fiivour  of  Britaio.  The  sea  ought  of  right  to  be 
British  property,  aiid  not  a  vessel  should  sail  the  ocean  but 
by  British  permission.  Bonaparte  had  conquered  all  the 
land,  and  Britain  should  conquer  all  the  sea;  and  the  late 
administration  were- charged  with  a  criminal  neglect  of  du- 
ty in  not  enforcing  these  principles.  I  saw  reason  to  dread 
that  they  would  be  enforced  now.  I  knew,  or  thought  I 
knew,  that  America  would  not  submit  to  them ;  and  hence 
I  feared  a  rupture;  I  observed,  however,*  that  Mt.  Ers- 
kine  wa»  to  be  continued  as  ambassador,  and,  reflecting  on 
the  nature  of  the  American  government,  I  oonsidefed  that 
there  would  be  no  rupture  on  their  part  before  they  had 
tried  negotiation  to  the  utmost.  I  therefore  judged  it  ex- 
pedientj  under  all  circumstances,  to  go  on  with  my  busi- 
neid,  and  to  take  prompt  measures  to  make  my  shipment 
gi«QOrdingly«        ■  ^^'^*:  **•■    •       u:'>finr''-'.,ii  .-?*  .*  »•.'• 

.  I  During  the  few  days  I  stopped  in  Liverpool,  I  was  as- 
dendy  engaged  in  making^  commercial  arrangements,  and 
had  time  for  few  remarks  that  woiild  be  interestmg  to  the 
general  reader;  I  shall  thetefinre  only  notice  two  or  three 
circumstances^  calculated  to  show  the  temper  of  the  times. 

We  were  informed  that  there  had  been  an  election  in 
Liverpool  two  days  before  we  arrived.  The  tory  candi- 
dates were,  generals  Tarleton  and  Gascoygne;  the  whig, 
canctidate^  Mr.  Eoscoe. '  Toty  principles  were  tremen. 
dously  triumphant,  so  much  so,  that  Mr.  Roscoe  durst  not 
even  appear  at  the  hustings;  and  his  friend,  colonel  Ta}ior, 
who  was  proceeding  there  in  his  behalf,  was  intercepted  by 
a  band  of  armed  men,  and  had  his  horse  killed  under  him. 

The  tavern  where  we  lodged  was  mostly  frequented  by 
travellers  on  business,  and  the  evenings  were  generally  de- 
voted  to  long  and  fervent  discussions,  some^mes  animated 


3oa 


TKAVELi  ni 


defaiteB*  As  the  company  were  ooUected  fiponr  all  quar. 
ten  of  the  itfamd,  we  had  a  good  oppcirtuni^' ofi  Ickming 
the  public  sentiment  in  general;  and  it  appeared  to  me  to 
be  in^fevour  of  the  ndwmimstry^  by  a  Tast  majority  of  the 
leading  men  in  the<  country.  ?' 

1"  During  my  stay  in  Liverpool^  **  the  chairing  of  the  mem- 
bers,'*  as  it  is  called,  took^  place;  It  was  conducted  in  this 
way.  Chairs,  of  elegant  workmanship,  wepe  provided,  rich, 
lyernamented  wkh  silks  and  drapery^  principally'  of  the 
colour  of  the  members'  livery.  They  had  cushions  for 
seats,  and  two  sides  supported  a^  pavilion  roof  on  each. 
They  were  borne  on  appropriate  carriages^  havingtwo 
poles,  and  the  candidates  were  carried  on  theni  by^a  num* 
ber  of  men^  from  the  place  of  election^  through  tiioae  plEirts 
of  the  town  that  £m6y  or  vanity  directed. 

In  this  procession  general  Tarleton  took  the  lead.  His 
livery  was' green,  the  other's  blue*  They  were  both  rich- 
ly dressed  in  regimentals.  They  stood  up  uncovered  in 
the  chairs,  and  proceeded  slowly  ^ong,  looking  and  bow- 
ing in  all  dii^ctions  to  the  populace,  who,  in  return^  waved 
istre^uners  of  gr^n  and  blue  ribbons  from  the  windows. 
Round  each  chfufwere  a  numberof  person^ cariyiilgpoles 
with  boards  nailed  to  the  tops  of  them,  and  labels  pasted 
on  the  boards.  These  also  deserve  notice.  **  No  popeiy ;" 
"  Church  and  king ;"  "  Long  live  the  king ;"  ♦*  No  dic- 
tating to  the  royd  conscience;"  *'  If  I  forsake  my  king, 
may  God  forsake  me,"  and  a  hundred  other  sayings  the 
presumed  sentiments  of  the  members,  were  thus  exhibit- 
ed to  the  multitude ;  who,  in  return,  testified  theh*  loydty 
in  repeated  daps  and  huzzas,  accompanied  by  flourishes  of 
blue  and  green  ribbons.  Even  the  members  of  the  frail 
<Hsterhood,  with  which  the  town  swarms,  were  ikmrisMng 


mnwujm. 


30& 


quar- 
ttmiiig 
me  to 

of  the 

Mnem- 
in  this 
i,"rich- 
of  the 
ona  for 
A  each, 
ng'two 
a  num* 
aepiRTts 

1  His 
ifehfich- 
/ered  in 
idbow- 
,  waved 
indows. 
g  poles 


[adic- 

lyking, 

■exhibit- 

loyalty 

risks  of 

frail 

irislung 


xmif>  in  green  and  blue^  in  all  directioos,  dBoanrng^pink 
and  Mn  Roscoe,  and^swearing  to  theilr  loyalty  and  tkqp 
devotion  to  the  king  and  the  two  generals.     : 

In  the.  afternoon,  I  met  with  a  friend  in  the  street, 
2fid  weradjoumedi  to  a  tivem  t(»  get  aome  pQf!ler.'    See- 
ingannmber  of  people  k  :!x  public  room,  I  went  tiiither, 
and  sat'down  by  a  plain-lookingvinan,  who  was  expatiatfaig 
on  the  late  election^    It  was  not  all  common  sense  that 
berdeliveied,  but^^it  wa»  auffieient  to  show  lie  was  a  poU^ 
tieianf  and  I  enteredinto  conversation^  with  himi  >' ObseiVi. 
iag  a  piece  of  green  ribbon^n  his  button-hotei  I  took  hold 
of  it^  and  asked  him  whurt  he  wore  it  for;  *''€lk)d  -Uess 
thee$?>  Asaid  he,  with  a  stare  of  amazement,  **wl^,  do'si^t 
thee'  know  what  that's  vor?  why,  where^does  thee  ^cum 
vrom  ?**   "  From  America,  last,"  said  I;    **  Oh^  1%  war- 
mUt  you'll  be  a  Yankee  Boodle,  and  will  have  no  zuch  fii- 
itfQ(u#^oihgs  as  these  among  ye.    Now,  I'll  tell  ye,  this 
is  -tny^ltvery.?' -  I  pretended   ignorances    "  Oh,  then,^  , 
and  Ir  "  you  ale  ^«  livery  servant."    **  No,'V  said^  he, 
^'¥m  vtyteit  mani^  -**  i  ^ know  ^that,'^  said  I  jx"  I  know 
there  are  na  slaved  in  this  country."  "Why,  thee  do'stt't 
understand  mej^*«ald  he;  *<  I  be  one  of  the  vree  men  of 
Liverpool :    I  geid  my  vote  vor  our  vaVorite  member, 
8nd'thi&  is  Ms  livery*^'    ^*  Oh,  ho,"  said  I,  a&etingad- 
mir^tHn  ^f  hi»  colisequence,  **  you  are« great  mar,  then ; 
a  voter,  heyi"    >*'^h,  yes,  I  be,  alid  ourzide^s  the 
strongest-:  we  hnvfe^put  'em  aH  down. '^***f*  Who  have  yoCi 
put  <tewnf*'    "-Why,  Roacoe  flwflf  lAwny  te^  be  sure  r  be- 
cause Rosicoe's  a  very  bad  man.    Why,  -don't  zU  know 
he  was  for  thfe  pcpe?"    "  For  the  pope!  was  he?  why 
that  was  terrible  in  him*"    "  To  be^zure  it  was  ;  and  he 
was  agaiost  tine  king :    he-  said  he  could  get  us  a  better 


^1^^ 


lillii^yor  ziz^poice ;  zo  ivie'U  never  luive  him  vor  mem- 
httuny  maetJ^-'^wih  vms  tke. language  of  a  Liverpool 
^nemaat/   ,'::■■        .  ^  ■■   .    ■  >-^         '^Hr- -,,,., 

1 1  learned  dial  none  but  fivemencoiild  VQte<  for  mei^^ 
of  parliamcait;  and  that^  faifilBiieKofJpeenian  coiM  only 
bexibtidnedKbyaeven  years  servitude  to^#eemanf$f  many 
of fi whopn  ai^ r^quaily  inlipUigeqt  withr  tiny^^J^iaxd ?at  the 

tavern.    -  ,'  -v;  ■.  ■•„,  ^   .. 


4    1 


.;v>^^^jf¥*'»*;#*^;Blj 


"*.•»>.  (I 


'■.■ii,f 


m-c 


KunxUskiii 


m 


■;.     I  ■ 


m- 


■t 


:'A 


:hj; 


b  Iddi.'^  i  s^e  but  >fcif  Gla^^cniir, '  neGotitpaniecT  by 
<n6»idB  ofirrp«Bsenlg«t«y  wliose  0  lived  in  thdt 

<a^^^  Jfhe  <:oiiipsey^^  teide  to  Carfi$le)  was  by 

whstiscidled^&e  heavy:  or  long^  coach/  and  it  took  two 
daya>to<pcifonh  the -jcmrn^f  124  miles.  0' 

ifilVjeistaited  at  810F  #x>'clock  in  the  moft^Hg,  and  pastsk 
in^.vthKmgfa  Qmakirk  and  Preston,  reached  Lancaster,  55 
miles  from  Liverpool,  where  we  stopped  for  dinner*  The 
weather  waisiagteeable;:  the  country]  baUth^ 
weH  cultivated^  eihkniting^aifery  pretty  appearance.  Ofins* 
liik  ift'  a  plaoei  of  titlie  consequence  \  but  Pveston  has  a 
popblation  of  14^000,  and  canieti  od  manu&ctures,  particu^ 
Ivly  in  cotton,  to  a  great  extent.  ^^ 

Jjonoffetf^  islthe  ooimfy  towHy  handsomely  situated  at 
the  idaouth  of  the>ffiver  Lone,  and  contains  about  8000  in- 
habitants. It  has  Gon^dekable  commerce,  but  veiy  little 
to  Ameiica ;  its^  chief  mailuiactures  being  ssdl-cloth,  fur« 
niture,  hardware,  candle^,  &c.  The  dukeof  Bridgewater's 
canal  tuns  near  (ianoaster,  and  crosses  the  river  by  a  very 
spaciousaiqueduct  bridge,  built  of  hewn  stone,  which  has 
a  fine  appearance  when  viewed  £nom  the  road. 

After  dinner,  we  continued  our  journey  18  miles  to 
Kendal,  where-  we  stopped  for  the  ni^t.    The  country 


vol..  I. 


2<t 


TBArmM^m 


J^ 


itiill  tfie  iiii'ajr  to^Kendalf  «diid,  ntainiitg^f^'tliraagh 
\f  cdUritiy,  afTottlti  niimy "^ne  vicwsi  -'  ^  ^  ?^^>^v « ^ 
*i>j^On»£!''Qf  ofur  jNissengers  was  a  shipping-merchaht  from 
London^' and  he  expressed  his  disapprobation  of* <te^kle 
Miiistiyfln'v^ seve^  ^enasj  fiirfnot  shu^g  up^tfa&^ar. 
l)^iAf'tri(dei'of^  Americans.  'Mf  fettonv^^veUcF  imd  I 
ciideaNroiired  to  reason  with  him;  and' to'liQintiMit^im. 
jiRMIil^ce  6f  the  'American  trade  to  Britain,' and  the  injus- 
tiiQe  ^ihat  It  wotlld  be  to  isltop  it :  but^ilr  Jtian'  of  coiii. 
siferce  vrould  listtte^  to  no  reason,  imd  wdii)dvbend^to  no 
nlixims  of  jiuticew  ^^  Wt  are^trfe  to  cacijr'ofiUle  whole 
iradelof  thfe  wiarid;;''  8aid'Ji6,*Hand  ii«  idibfl^^ 
%uf 'fleets  are  fdl-po^crfill^  apd^  we  idiolild  txiiki^^ 
^ib  seemed'  1^ Ibrg^t,  tbiit  there  afie lalwaifs^ two  atia bar- 
j^Kin^making^i  and^that  noDttkai'  dm  [tmttf  dn  li^'fiMgi) 
it^die  idG&m^     ■  •  -'v;;.----:  .^•'  )-!    ■       ;  ■••ri  <-,':' ': 

^' JtfiMiytis  betiiitifiiUy  8ste^  oointif, 

4tid  the  women  have  cheeks  Hke  roaes; '  Itis  a  preitf  >  ktrge 
tow^,  and  has  codsifierable  manu&ctories  of  cottpos^^oot- 
Ijena^  jstddnngs^^hista^  li»^i  some  nf  m^ih  ace^iaaGUifited 
fi^ 'die 'American  tradei'-^  "■.■^-  >r.}-'f^fi<*  i\^^fi' M■^^''y^%<v/': 
^:  May  3Qdi.  W«  ad  oufcat  T^^'doc^^  themon^ 
^d  travelled  thioMgh  a  ipugh  hflly  coiuilliiy  calledui^^i/- 
JFeUs^Qri  miles,  to  Penrith.  The  countijr  b  but  ti^y 
inhabited  In  this,  district,  and  die  ifihabitmts:  ae^m  t^  be 
Ji(ioB%  etilployed  in'rdsing.sb^^  S^i%nm- 

'X^^hm^k  H  «  n^it  Hide  pUiee,  cootainiii^  about  SOOOfeo- 
■i^.    The  ^xHintrf  liortheeasti^rd  %■  highfimd  bano^but 
h  is  fertile  urthe  w^wai4>'^9Rd^ldboiiildB  in^^farivlngfiirRis. 
rThe  pQuntfey  impiote^  toWdids  iQariisle^  Iftimilesi^iftanti 
round,  wblitsh  it  i4  ^^tated  lilce  a  garden.'      f 


J)-,  f 


gpingcp 


sior^ngt 

^'^.i^^milc 
si»aPp|9ce 


t   > 


large  inlet  fi 

A  fine  fihami 

Four  mile 

celebrated  f( 


gioillg^  to  Glasgow  J^yt^^ie  l40^4pl^  ^ipduly,  ^9^pqc^S||^ 
)i^iuiliouF|«pd,  jp|l|Pipiie^  tii9ey  wetQokftyvaU^tl^iaugh 

.^  QifMtkM  prettily  8^ti|^|fi4^,^,  c$)P^m»  .a ^pq^wl^tijo^ 
i^tlQ^^lOQ^  It  i&  fevqu^bjy  ^i$ualied  %  c^^y ing  9|i  mafl% 

hi^  ppiireA<»Hpoc9iiai^^^  ,ji 

aDt^oiiiated  that  we  would  suffer  a  tittle  fi(W  U^.^d^^aJli 
k#pt  w«*,^i?qul4,^^<gB^  M^^^^.^^^M  M 

.  T?f|ir|R^^  pastil  li^ofig^^J^fifffo^^ 

sqiiall  pifice  on  the  confiites  of  £iigl^4>  ^4l^v^^!^ P^¥^ 
tkiftiWie  crosied  a  little  stream,  and  Jj^e^jl, 

^"^  «  Old  Scotia,  our  ^eir,  our  riarfve  sAik"  ^*  ^^ 

KeflR  we  hod  11  iffiy  exten^'ve  view,   ^lu^y  ,^,  a  veij 
large  inlet  fixMn  the  Irish  ae%  was  pp  our  Ei|^t ;  afi4  bef, 

yf«*^fellie  iGunilPi^rtel^l^^        m^MJ^i  C 
glM^HMguHude^   aTo  fto  W^  i^orth'.we^  ai^,  nor^ 

a  fin&fihainpaign  c»uA^>y  pjn  our  rear  towards  CMisl^^ 

Fourmiles  frwn  hence  j*  the  vUlage  of  Gretna  Qrefh^ 

celebrated  for  the  coupling  blacksmith  who  lives  in  it. 


806 


^'■«rAY«l»*1IN 


tws  of  marriage' vrScddand  ate  veiy  smipIe'^U  l( 
agre^to  many,  tiieyMcaif  carry  tibeir  imtttit&on 
Into  effect 'by  declaring  their  union  iiefctre  wkneasto  r  and 
thisy  ^diough  contrary  to  the  rules  of^^the  churdiy  and  to 
ihe  geineril  jpradioeof  the  QOuitti>y,^«onititiltes  akigal'niar. 
fis^ '.'  ^It  ift  idso  applicable^  to  thctttidvto  of  Stou^  Britain 
when^Oiey  cometo^nor^^  on  wbicii  aecoiMtiitfitqQent. 
}y  happens,'  thi^in^^  a  genlienian'sM  1^  ki  Enghuid  U\ 
in  16vt;iiid  cailnot  li¥e%ithout  ^  ottidiifeis  WUIfe  th^iat  so 
unfortonate  Ha  not  to'be  able  to  d^A'^d^xHsent^f  their 
^fiendsy  theyniet  off  on  it  matriittOnitf  trip  tiiSetidand?;  and 
ihis  beingfihe  indttest  ^itti^^<ott'diie  0Fd«b  greaartoads^isuch 
%iarrii^cs  dire  'frequentFyisOleitiniz^  Ibre^  l^he  ptraon  who 
^iwts  m^piiifi^tn  liie  bcca^GOi,  blil  whii^  ki  truth/  it'^Mily, 
iakmg  ivhhf  jpiil^^  6r^  t#o  moi^  a'  wHti^  to  die'dedaikion, 
is  cdled?^  imt^img'bhckmftH^end  the  wliole  drcum- 
stance  has^^^vea  xise^  to  a>  huittoroi!is  &roe,^  cidkd  ^-©retaa 

lib  1^  road  beyond'tibis  place  was  very  foughibut#  was 

4iaitie  ydr^itd^'  >^Wt^^^     .^A^'i^i,  ^  ^^^  '{>lace) 

Wtdr&xki6d.M^^  sti{)per. 

IPiisfis  a litl^l^abe^ a^  hllls^' aiid"0i%'fneiiisr jid- 

vjioe  as>  ^e^  stoppin^^place^  ^  the '  stages^ oik  die  wi^  tc^  and 
fioRi  Eiigland,  There  are  some  good  medicinal  Sfiftligs 
Jn  ity^  nei^itioiiiiiood^  ^^ 

>    Leaving /Mofl&t^  we  had  tovoross  a  kli^  ^^lain^o^  hiUs  [ 

aJbut  I  ean  give  4IO  particular  adcoutitof  the  ^hfigliration 
bf  the  country ;  ^oo-,  though  I  haVe  oM>p!(iiiedi  thirough 

i^k,  it  has  always  been  in  the  night;  The  night  w«s  now 
very  cold;  but  a  gentleihan  left  die  msdli-at  Mo^t,  and 


thciulQj 
Nln^^ 


and)>sucl 

myself  a  1 

quendyp 

ear.    ;It  i 

heard  bei 

canna.get 

other;  ^,*.- 

ittiinnna 

^fKaiJ^ 

I  could  v> 

got  it  tor 

AI>oul 

lli^inileS: 
feirtiJe^valli 
mualiawe 
gpw^  live 

We  pas 


-*'  t 


fitbn 
rand 
iid  to 

liitatn 
loent- 
ndM 

i^  their 
if;  and 

oil  who 

GtttlEtion, 
^tm- 
^Gfetna 

bit  was 


|sitt)per. 
ltd- 


(hetailors'caU  it;^^  spdl  arid  speB^tttiout'^dC  t6ei<4i 
M4n  ^(tiiiSMWiiy  w«t  ftissed  the '  8eufce»»<xf  Uie*  Ci] 
toiJiKad  hills^  toithe  right,  and  journeyed  onwand  at  a 
good^paoe^'  «^  As  ^l^^waa  takiag^  my  outside  stadoA,^  about 
da^-'Mghtrt'^ heard  a  dialogue  between  th&two  ^vers  in 
broad '^ScotSy  being  the  first  I  hadheard^  for  •  14  •^^liionth^; 
and^i  such  b  the^«^eotof.  halnt^  that,  although  I^consida^ed 
in3?setf  a  son  of  adept  at  the  Scottish  language,  and  hod  fre- 
quently piAeitised  it,  this  had  a  suiprising  elect  tqxm  my 
etr.  ik  i^^ieared  more  broad^nSxm  any  thing  I  had  ever 
heard  befoipe.  ^  ^*^^A,  Johnny,  iQiki,"  si^s  the^ne)  ^f *  I 
eamia.get  this  thing  fixt*^  '>  *'  Caa  ye-nof  said  the 
others  ^^-wfaat  aik'df " i.  *^  Goth)  I  dimia  ken  wed ;  but 
itrtm^nna  draw  dirough  wi*  me,''  4*  Ye'll  better  cut4t.'' 
*f  Ka^I^Uno  fash  to  do  thaty«t;  PU  takrmy^teethttili't?' 
I leeuldinot'  see  what  they  wei^  about;  but  they  ^aoon 
got  it  to  rights,  whatever  it  was,  and  we  drove  ort. -v  ; 
^ ,  About  sun^rise,  we  reached  the  village  of  Hamilton^  the 
saal^fcHie  of  the  most  ancient  j^  of  Scotland.  Iiis 
Uj^miles  Irom  ll^^sgoW)  on>  tfie  river  Cllyde^^  in  n^ine 
fertile' vaUey^^aodisv  noted  foT;  imsing  Mt^  A  great  maay 
mualiii  weaver8,v«who  worlj;  for  the  manu^ctuiers  of  Glas-. 
gow^  live  at  this. place,  i  Indeied,  they  are  s^xltt»^^«ll 
.'<nr0'#i^;OQun^.r.  .■:'?.■••■.  i.r^./ 

We  passed  Clyde  irop-works,  the  second  in  eicteiitr^ 
SciQtlapc^  and  j^hed  Glasgow  at  ^  o^loc^,  when  Phad 
a  jcfy&l  meeting  witb  my  fiiend%  after  an  abaenciQrjof 


'■-e^-- 'y 


/<' 


ktW; 


TJMtVSM  W 


•■„'  >>■■ 


;#*' 


•'n  I 


.^s^-fi^mifi.nyt  .>;44/ 


,  jM|||MU|^^ug|^|u|i|j|k^g|y|M||||Y  .,1 4, 

CHAWT5R  Xi-TH.  '^s»^ 

I  CONTINUED  in  OkBgow  until  the  19tli  of  June^ 
vsheHfttk  prctoectitien  «f  ^n^^  ceommercial  buaumsi  I  aet 
out  f^  Etiglandi  I  ttfok  a  passage  by  the  mail  coacb^ 
and  travelted  thrioagh  Carlisle  and  Preston,  to  Mandxsatar; 
l%imoiaRtry'  fh^n^  Picstoit  to  Manchester  is:^  piobah^ 
IMbng  tile  i^hitsA  W¥.t)^ttaidi  « The  fidds  aito 'wdll  cttlti; 
vaMd ;  die  housed  af<k  ^dmt^  tkkt  it\66ku  lake  #  omd^ 
licned vifiage;  ttid'tfab iqiuKitti^ of  maehineiy: amibleachi 
B^^  ^Aatmttyvi^tiiite  lapptsm  h  knmense.  <  The  toai 
pfiSses^Hhfoygh  Ohailey  and  Bdton,  both  manttiiGtiirhig 
▼ilhges ;  but  the  whole  of  their  trade  is  subselsiieMt  to 
MiiiitheM^^'  uAMi  fa&y  be  oonsiddnd  as  the  i^geii^mmxi 
Mitflnif  eapdt#Of 4dl  £tiglaiid»^^  T^  9k». 

tOn^  MaOdiestil^ '30'ttlil^^^  Jay^ s*?*,^:^, .....;-, ....u .vj^ii,a*:«v 

^<^|i|poiii'  Matii!lieflli<r'  I  fmtiiiit  k  mtamef  to  fo  tb  Mm* 
{Mi^  distant  36  nUles,  The  road  passes  iltfou^iandii 
iivlll«atiltlvated^  levd'  Gouhtry^  in  whieh  v^i^  tira  coiisidei 
rtiblr  ViRages,  Warrington  and  Prescoft^  ^  !flte  mdiAry 
bikidin^  moiie  sterile  <tdwards  Uveipool ;  but^thii  ff^  ^ 
k  is  bieautifkd  bjr  maiiy  setitsj  the^^^^ 
f^l  nierchants:  Amcl»%  the  number  is^ififeidcli^ 
seiie  of  ®r.  ^caotno^eif  ^BtOm^G^eta  memori/iOdi^ti 
the  most  beau^l'buUdhtgs  in  England.  '^    ^    i*^ 4:*  .^.^ 


Mf  o 

of  bttsb 
tiourseo 

itoedifatd^ 

« 

flistancei 
my  busi 
excellent 
manuiact 
pUcatioiii 
T^Maneh 
o4^  great. 
te>Romi 

44ia  man] 

■htmt^OQ 

ptodatu 

:>'iftlanii^ 

wards  ofS 

lnit-the>en 

Utended 

Ihbi^intBodi 

,cogtneyi«x< 


itaoatoid 

^puiallyin 
tioDuif  the 
bmnberd' 
*radearef^i 


^msmuam.' 


311 


I  set 

CQACb^ 

hsstef* 
dbtkAf 

lexitto 
iiiiimt- 

».  J  ^  „ 

mtiy 


rtf^  the 


«.*•: 


r  Mif  oommerGial  friend  in  Liverpool  being  a  proi 
of  buainessj  I  made  an  arrangement  with  him,  in' 
cotine  of  a  few  houra,  to  my  entire  satls&ction}  and  im* 
itoediktdy  returned  to  Manchesttir;  From  the  ample  as^ 
sistance  afforded  me  by  my  friends^  I  was  able  to  expedites 
my  businew  in  this  place  with  great  celerity,  and  I  had  an 
excellent  voppoirtunity.  of  observing  the  ^vcry  extended 
manufactliites  and  commerce  of  this  place,  and  their  i^ 
plication  to  the  American  trade.    >>  v^     I 

f>^Mandieilflri  though  it  nmks  only  as  a  viUi^  isa^  place 
ol^  great .  antiqnity^a*  town  having  been  utilised ,  hete  by 
di^jfioQuoMtin  the  i^7!th  year  of  Ihe  Chriaiaaik  aeta,  md  is 
iMKW^^iik  point ^of  population,  the  second  town  in  Enfgatid^ 
44in  manufikfitures,  decidedly  the  fimti  ^he  streets  ate 
ahMit^OC^hi  tmmber,  and  some  of  them  iipaciousf  but  a 
fTQit^  ttunyi'  are^  too  aamowj  and  the;  town  is^  upon  the 
HA/th-iAttxy  ifvegular*  The  ^number*  of  hou^^  is  com- 
pitd  at'  iq^pfard^  ^  X2»0Q0,  md  the  iidiabitaiitsi  amount 

sviifanu^ieliiiefthave^been  estabhal^  place'&riupi 

i«aidttof'dOO'^«ai%^iuidvhaye  been  conlami^  encrpasing; 
but  theiencrease  since  the  iq^plicatifiin  of  maduipefy ,  on  an 
eitnided  'scnle;  to:^  cotton  trader' and^/^paitic^ilBilyshice 
dio«:«inlBodiiclim-^Qf  &hon  and ;  rWatt^s  improved  steam 
,aigine,4exeped9  all ;  former  f  exajaaple,^  in  any  places  or  any 
cimnti^. .  IFfaere  ace*  a  vast  number  of  cottcm  mills  erect- 
fld^^ilir:  tfaetito^,  and  maH^  o^  ithem  emplc^  upwards  df 
llQQQv  luHids^f  ^  ^jfi^ie i^  raw  ^material  i  consumed 

iinnuiEilly >jn4lu$  %brwch,.  is  immense,  and  a  'oare  •  enumera- 
tidn&of  the  articles  it  is  mami£|ctured  into^  wpi4d  fill  a 
nomber  of  pages.  Those  most  calculated  for  the  American 
tiade  are  fustians,  waistcoatings,  shirtings,  cambrics,  dimi- 


SJfi 


Tm^MUtB  JM 


iWroray^  table  napery,  atookings,  glove v  bnc<%  bed- 
^itilli^  fcq.-ftx«  Of  otiier  artklea  there  are  atao  «xtenaive 
ttod  in^xirtaiit  iiiiain]iiiBtiivea»  auoh  aa  h«t%*  ailka,  ..tapesi 
firitigfa,  laoea,  8ic. ;,  and  Manphealcr  i»a  gfncral  inarto  for 
the  viiatiuftctiirea  of  the  whole  oounliyrpaitkularly  every 
deacripaion  of  ;WOoUeiMk  r 

9^  From  Manebealjer  I,  travelled  to  Buiy^  nine,  miles, 
thiODgtean  uiieiKfvi,  btit^feitile  and  wtU-i^iltivatedjCountryt 
'  The  principal  .manu&ctures  here  are  wooUena^iwrticularly 
plaini»pqiting«»blankieta»jmd  flannels^  ,  ^v  jjKfiut^^^nm^ : 
imfffHn  Bury  |o  Rochdal^^ia  ^.miliaif  the  /wnntxy  neartjr 
th^  am^^^aa  Ihe^  last  mentioned.  Heie  are  iMmaa^^ 
mam^ietiireii^paKticiilarly  fianaela  of  a  veiy  e;^«i9lkjnii<^alii^. 
Fro^  BioGhdale  to  Hali&x  ia  17  mtlea».  paiftfy utfairou^ 
ail  ^e»l«Bfiiy«  moor,! sIokI  Ae  whole  countiytia  hiHy».8Qnie 
of  :)it  iromantii6.^4  ntAt  Halifax  there  are  very  yextenaiw 
■waiiMforjrureaof  wooilena,  partkaulariy  of  :broQdr)aninam>w 


■V>:-'f  -■.■'■,-»'li^*,' 


If  Irfiim  ^Hali&|Lv/t(|;^  luoeda  ia  16/mflear*  tfarougb  a.hilly 
!^miRti|r,ij<^t  wtehfjtheiaoii  imprai^loirardai^llicr^lattttr. 
H^  «Ii«eda  ;i8;beaiiti&ill|pvaitiiated  In  a  vei^  ^ftile  voountry^, 
anil:ia  die  .^raa^atitownwiJ^nglaBdlQiithe  vi^^  manu^ 
fiaotnifis*  The  jnoBl  impiftant  niaiwifaetu«»iM:  America 
me^. .  broid  >  a^d  nairow  lM)»^;^annej8j  ae^ge^^ioaflamvpiees, 
callimaticoes^  duranta^  htebazeens^^bomfaasetii^  bbiikfitS) 


ali«pniito,^in  owpdiib.  ^  ^Tl^^^ooiis^  <^coii^i4a  |^^  and 

Fcom  tlKJa  phK^  Iipa^iied  about  IS.  nukii^  ithroiigh  a 
pretty  well^aetded  country^  but  piaprdy  xnoofi  to  the :  great 
London  road,  with  the  view  of  taking  my  passage  for 


■«'^ 


bed. 
niivc 

etfor 
every 

nulet, 
untry* 
^ukirly 

f 

neaiiy 
tu#ty. 


lenMW 
fluarQW 

axhiUy 

ttef* 

ounlvyf 


^toim 


fha 
eat 
for 


ISnolahik;!  dt3 

GlaigQW  by  >  the.)  Londcn  mail.  .When  the  mail  (^qplpe 
forvmcd  it  was  fuU,  aii4  I  was  disappointed  i  but  a  oMidil 
paiaed  soon  after  fot  Newcastle,  and  bemg  informe4'thae 
tlie^ine  was  continued  liom  thence  to  Edinburgh,  I  availed 
myself  of  that  conveyitooe.  '*¥Mi. 

It  was  about  11  o'clock  at  night  when  we  set  out,  and, 
travelling  all  night,  we  passed  through  Northallerlon,  about 
30  miles  from  where  we  started,  at  day-light  next  mom* 
iiig.  The  eountry^vl  was  informed,  is  pretty  fertile,  and 
wdi  cultivated^. '  '>.'^.-.<:^'^;'ii;rf-^.'*'      .-  -.^ 

From  Northallerton^t to  Durham  is  about  27  milev, 
through  a  poetty  fertille' ^country,  and  Durham,  the  capital 
of  ithe  county  of  the  same  name,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
tlie«iv«r  Wear,  surrounded  by  very  fertile  and  well<4iulti' 
\«toi 'fields;  -  , 

!'  S«K>m  Durham  to  Newcastle  is  16  miles^  partly  through 
MIe  fields^  but  the  soil  becomes  worse  towards  New- 
Glilfe^:^  an4tHv  tlnutHne^bourhpod  the  coimtry  abounds 
with  eoal^min^i  We  had  frequent  and  extensive  vieWs 
ofitllieA'GenaaB  Ocean  by  the«  way;  and  I  oould  not  help 
canttaating  tihe  bRoiMir' of  i  Hxt  country,  not  much  more 

tlianmr<l^'^«4^"^^  '**^  ^^^  country  which  I 

had'^lat^fMfe*^  Ought  not  Britain,  exclaimed  I  mentally, 
tO)ibeprou:d!t'«i»'h^ing>settled<  America,  to^  conciliate  the 
dfeqtiolis  of;»to  >gcQilfring  pofMlati  cultivate  a 


^)Newcai[tte.i»'8itualBdonMtll0; liver  Tjme,  and  is  lai^i 
and  populous,!  bbt  is  jnvguklr,^^^^^  not  very  dean ;- it  1$ 
chiedy  remarkablei  for  its  great  coal  trade,  the  greater  pcttt 
oft^the -supp^^of.tfae  En^h  metropolis  being  derived 
fiom  it.-  ,  ■  •.>,  '^:v^  •  ','■■-■■;,''■  ■■  ■•  ■     ;.*:  ■ 


Yoi..«<,r*a 


Sf*: 


ij*r 


^.2■,'R 


feyji^ 


114 


TKA/VBLI  IN 


Jim  lito|iped«tt  night,  and  sttfted  b|r  the  <xwcb Jbr 
Edmburgh  next  mornings  at  5  o'clock.  At  14  miles 
firom  Newcastle,  we  reached  Morpeth,  an  inqonuderabjb 
town,  and,  19  milea  further,  we  reached  Ahiwiok,  the  leat 
of  the  earl  of  Northumberland.  The  caatleia  beautifully 
situated  on  an  eminence,  and  it  is  auntninded  by  a  high 
wall  at  a  distance,  which  encloses,  I  presume,  nearly  300 
acres  of  ground,  all  laid  out  for  grazing.  The.  whole  has 
a  most  magnificent  appearance.  ¥,rom  Alnwick  toBer* 
wick  is  27  miles.  In  the  whole  distance^  from  Newcastle 
to  Berwick,  the  country  presents  a  pretty  uniform  appear- 
sinoe^  The  soil,  except  at  some  particular  iplaces,  iSi<rB* 
ther  thin.  There  are  high  lands  to  the  west,  and  to  the 
east  is  the  German  ocean,  along  which  the. rood  runs 
within  a  few  miles  the  whole  way.  Towards  Berwicky  it 
18  almost  close  along  shone. 

Berwick  is  situated  on  liie  Tweedy  near  the  border  of 
Scotkndi  and  is  a  pret^  populous^  but^^irrsgubily  buik 
town,  and  carries  on  oonsiderabk  matiufactures.!  But  it 
is  chiefly  remarkable  for/  the  ssdmon  /fiaberies^i^hichare 
voy  extensive^  aqd  empfey  a  nuroknr  of  ismflU  vessels  in 
the  London  trade,  called  fieni^ck smacks.  .•  --n 

A  few  miles  from  Berwick,  w^pa^dthe^^  Scottish 
border,  at  which  a  house  was  pointed^oulii' wtoematrimo- 
mal  contracts  are  made  omdiie  same.principl^  as^ at  Gretna 
Green.  After  passing  this  place;  the  road  ktveslhessea. 
ooes^  loid  crosses  the  counHyithrough^ekvated  kmds^  but 
ai^sr^y  ^ret^  fiertile,  and^midec  exoeUent^ciihiyilion; 
and  ^s  •oondnues  to  Dui^ar,  towards  Which  the.  rood 
approaches  the  coast  of  the  Firth  of  Fordi.  \v 

^^  Dunbar  is  a  pretty  large,  and  ancient  town, ^  finely  situ- 
ated on  the  Forth,  from  whence  there  is  an  elegant  view 


«l 


•COTLAXB.  9U 

of  thB  singular  rock  oaUed  the  fiais,  North-Bcrwick  Iaw» 
the  coasts  of  the  firth,  and  the  interior  of  the  county  cf 
Fifth  It  is  11  miles  from  Berwick  to  Haddington,  a  coosi- 
dciable  place,  and  16  miles  more  to  Edinburgh,  the  capl> 
tal  of  Scotland.  In  all  this  distance  the  soil  is  excellent, 
and  the  agriculture  in  the  most  improved  state.  We 
reached  Edinburgh  at  10  o'clock  at  night,  having  travelled 
this  day  120  miles.  t^ 

Edinburgh  is,  widiout  exception,  the  most  beautiful 
city  that  I  have  yet  seen.  Its  situation  b  singular.  To 
the  eastward  of  the  city  is  a  conical  hill,  called  Arthur's 
Seat.  Its  base  is  probably  about  half  a  mile  in  diameter, 
and  it  is  700  fleet  high.  To  the  north-west  of  this  b  a 
ridge  of  hills  called  Salisbury  Craigs,  probably  about  one 
ihinl  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  about  350  feet  high,  havuig 
a  steep  acclivity  on  the  west,  which  overhangs  the  eastern 
part  of  the  city.  Near  the  focA  of  these  the  city  commen*' 
oes,  and  from  thenoe  the  High-street  runs  due  west  about 
a  mile,  rinn^  at  an  angle  of  about  10  degrees  from  the 
horiaon,  and  at  its  extremity  is  terminated  by  the  Castle, 
on  a  rock,  from  whence  there  is  a  perpendicular  descent 
of  about  350  feet.  This  ridge  is  only  of  sufficient  breadth 
on  the  top  to  form  the  street,  from  whence  it  immediately 
fidls  by  a  steep  descent  on  both  sides,  and  nearly  to  a  level 
with  the  foot  joi  the  High-street.  To  the  south,  a  narrow 
street,  called  the  Cowgate,  runs  in  the  hollow,  and,  be- 
yond k,  llie  ground  j^;ain  limmediately  rises,  and  spreads 
oUtintoioi  open  plain,  on  which  stands  the  south  part  of 
the  town.  The  hollow  to  the  north  is  called  the  North 
Loch,  because  it  was  once  filled  with  wafier,  but  it  is 
now  drained ;  and  to  the  north  of  it  the  ground  riaes>  and 


di6 


T|IA:¥BLB  in 


spreads  out' into  a  fine  plain,  on  whidi  the  New  Town  is 
built.-:     V,..,  ..  .    •  -;?-^    ,  ■   .  --•. 

*^  To  the  east  of  the  New  Town  there  b  a  smaller  hil}^ 
ealled  Calton  HiMy  which  is  public  property^^  and  affoids 
fine  walks,  and  most  agreeable  prospects.  «♦ .  »* .  .-  ;.>  4i 
::i  «.The  Old  Town  is  remarkable  for  its  singular  configu. 
ration,  and  lofty  houses,  some  of  them  14  stories  high; 
and  the  New  Town,  whether  we  view  it  in  regard  to  the 
elegance  of  its  plan,  or  the  regularity^  symmetry,  and 
beauty  of  its  buildings,  is,  beyond  all  comparison,  the 
most  elegant  city  I  ever  saw. 

>  The  Old  and  New  Towns  are  connected  1^  the  North 
Bridge,  an  elegant  building,  which  crosses  the  North 
Loch ;  and  a  fine  street .  is  continued  across^  the  High, 
street,  and  by  the  South  Bridge  crosses  the  Cowgate,  and 
connects  the  south  part  with  the  north  part#.  This  Mdge 
has  elegant  buildings  On<  each  side,  except  at  the  middle, 
where  they  are  interrupted  by  the  CoM^te^  and  here  the 
view  is  as  singular  as  can  well  be  imagined:  being  de- 
yated  on  the  bridge,  you  see  the  busy Jnhabitantsbek)W, 
|o  tJie  east  and  wfpt^  the  whole  length  of  the  street  i  ^r 
%  Leith.is  considered  as  the  port  of  Ectinburgh^  and  is 
connected  with  it  by  a  very  broad  avenue,  nearly)  two 
miles  long,  called  Leith  Walk.  The  whole  population  of 
Edinburgh  and  Leith  was,  in  1801,  82;36a 
■-■■_■  The  whole  adjacent  country  abounds  in  rich ;  scenery, 
^nd  weU  cultivated  fields  and  gardens;  and  frontits  pecu- 
liar coi^urarion,  it  exhibits  a  greater  variet^^f^jlaeisr Jews 
than  any  other -{dace  l-have.  everjseen.>*«»f^fi«"''iff«?^?^t 
#,;^£dinburgh  is  the  seattof  the  supreme  oouTt,  ;a())d  the 
law  has  become  a  fashionable  study  among  the  nobility 
and  gentry  of  Scotland ;  the  greater  part  of  whcmi  have 


b4L^ 


^ci^Ttxiilfr 


W! 


er  hUl; 
affords 

'■'..'  '■. . 

oniigu- 
I  lugh; 
1  to  the 
ry,  and 
on,  the 

eNortii 
»  North 
e  High- 
;ate,  and 
s  bridge 
middle, 
here  the 
dng  ele- 

St.  I  ^■ 

ai9d  is 
arly)  two 
ilation  of 

scenery, 
its  pecu- 
views 

and  the 

nobility 

have 


thehr  wihter  readftnee  in  the  city.  '  This  dreumstance  not 
only  affords  a  permanent  fund  for  the  support  of  the  tfky, 
biit  forms  an  assemblage  of  beauty '  and  fashion  nirely 
equalled,  and  the  winter  assemblies  and  fashionable  parties 
have  a  brilliancy  aiid  splendour  not  to  be  found,  probably, 
in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

The  seminaries  6f  education,  and  other  litierary  and 
scientific  institutions,  are  known  and  prized  all  over  the 
Ae  world."  Asf  die  city  draws^  its  pemiarient  stippCtft  fiy^m 
land,  it  has^nbt  its  de^^dehce  on  foreign  commiercfe,  like 
the  manuiacturing  and  comnidfcial  cities.  Though  the 
manu&ctun^s  are  considerable,  they  are  mostly  calculated 
for  ifitemal  trade.  i*^^  >*k  t;>^^  >»u 

''nie  state  of  soci^  is, ' gfeheralty  speaking,  excelfent. 
The  people  aire  tVell  infdrmedj  frank,  and  generoXis;  As 
to^e  ladies,  they  are  elegant  to  a  proVerb.  Thosfe"  t^ho 
htti^e^er  be^  on  "  Leith  Walk  in  the  gloaming,'*  ^d^n 
hear^^^hess  to^^ir  *•  anigelic  fbrihs;'*  theii- "  rosy  c<^ 
plexibrts;''  aiidthfeir  **  Pitching  ^iles."  But  as  I  niight 
he  accused  6f  psfttialit^  fbr  iriy  fifflP  cauntiywOTnteri;  \vere 
I  to  sp«^^yMhdM  thi^'snbject,  I  sh^ll  Me  niy  Ifeave 
ofthe  Edh*fl)u<^ladiesrby*^ddre§sii^  tti^  ydtmger  t^^rt 
of  theni^  im  the  wcmxIs  of  RdbeiV  Burn^ :' 

,     .     And  send  ye  lads  in  plenty. 

<*f^^the^lea^  S^otfei^  #*4  o»clb^  aft^- 

noonj^^aiUd'fefkJhed  Glasgow,  42  rhries  distaiit,  si^  qiiartfei" 
before  10,  which  was  pretty  quick  travelling.'  I  hate  fS^- 
quehdy  heard  it  remarked;  that  the  Telegraph,  bjrVhich 
I  travified,  is  imder'^better  regulations  than  any  |iublic 
coach  in  Scotland^  except  the  Mail,    In  the  first  10  or  13 


m 


VttATHtS  tS 


miles  ©f  this  joiitticy^  the  country  is  pretty  rich.  The  lieitt 
14  miles,  it  is  cold  and  bleak,  and  but  little  cultivated.  To. 
%vaids  Glasgow,  the  soil  again  improves ;  but,  generally 
speaking,  the  landd  are  much  infi^rior  to  what  they  are  in 
the  ndghbourfaood^fMEitiiibiirgb:    ^    ' 


ip 


^v :  :t^  ■  ■':"^mm*^?-~.. 


•t^. 


m-  .■'■■■      ■  ^  ■       •. 

.%-.  ■■■'■• 

5^.f,*-.  ;  ^      ■      .  .    ■     .       ^  »  r    -    .  .:   ■•■■   -  r 


»>*  .•S><'*.'i.  iSniiJI"*  a' «  > ,  iii'.i/- 


I  -■> 


■ ',  ■'"'  1 


'  .\  .  !* 


:>mf  j«  ^« 


eiiett 
,  To- 

nmlly 
are  in 


*^P^^**  ^  "  IR;" 


'wwB 


liilitlllMiii  f^- 


^^'•> 


.*.^.  CHAPTER  XLVra. 


'*W 


OhsgoWy^SHrKngt^-Creiffl — Methvetiy — Perth. 

Having  completed  my  shipments,  I  had  now  little  else 
to  do  but  wut  the  return,  and  c^  course  xould  pay  some 
attention  to  public  matters.  The  plans  of  the  newminis* 
try  soon  began  to  develope  themselves.'  One  of  the  most 
successful  engines  which  they  had  used  to  oust  their  pre- 
decessors, was  to  charge  them  with  want  of  energy ;  and  it 
became  necessary  for  them  to  support  their  character  by 
adopting  energetic  measures.  Accordingly  a  great  big  ex- 
pe^^itioit  was  prepared,  with  much  solemnity  and  parade; 
and  having  looked  about  in  all  directions  for  an  object  to 
tuveck  the  vengeance  of  the  nation  upon,  they  hit  upon 
Detknark.  Denmark  was  a  neuurd  and  fiiendly  power; 
but  that  Was  of  no  importance,  they  could'there^  strikie  a 
blo#  with  effect,  mid  convince  the  world  of  the  ixemen- 
doui^ 'power  of  Britain,  and  the  energy  of  her  ministers. 
The  blow  was  struck,  and  a  terrible  blow  it  was  for  Den- 
mark;^ but  it  was  more  terrible  still  to  Britain:  it  laid  her 
honour  low  in  the  dust,  and  pointed  her  out  as  the  enemy ^ 
of  thieiuvilized  world.  ♦ 

I  dreaded  that  the  next  blow  would  be  struck  at  Aihei> 
rica ;  and  so  it  was^— but  in  a  di£b%nt  form :  it  was  a  blow 
at  neutral  trade.  The  famous  orders  in  council  made  thdr 
sKppearance  on  the  llthof  November,  1807,  ^nd  at  onsjkil 


■t 


■% 


djptw^iPrQgiiM^  the  pi|5jB?4puri#bi»g  trdjj^pf^^ 

^i^Pepple  of  all  ranks  were  astonished  at  these  proceedings 
Q^tifie  l?!*bi!Bj^t.j  Jtjvai^  spine .Iim€»iind^e4,  l^^ithe-^tature 
of  th^  (a^§^  p.,C)Q!|EyQU^^i9^  unflers^^  ^uch  .was  the  re* 
markable  pbscurity,  of  the  language  in  which  ^  they  were 
drawn,,  an(dord€^foUQwe4uppn  .qrclprst^w^  mon^th,  or 
s|x  weeks,  to  explain  them.  But  their  effects  were  soon 
fttess^y  J*P  m^iit  W£i9  eyidfc:iit  that  the  American  peqjlft  ne- 
vj^r,  wPMld  submit  tq  theiut ;  iand  J.  dioughti  I  had  good  tea- 
spnsfpr  fonning  th^t  opinio^.  I  had  recentl}^  returned  from 
>4n;^^ic9*  J  had^ardeptly,  studied  ^  geiuius  and  powetr  of 
that  people.  X  kn^w  that  their  spirit  of  sitern  indep^ence 
M[qiil4  n^ver  ^bmit  to  be  dictaitied  to.  where ;  they  ^should 
G^y  their  own, goods  ;if^. -their  pwpi  vessels*:, v  J, icalculs^ted 
thai;  they  hftd  pqwerotc^j^^P  wi^ioul  Britij»l>v^adejiifut^^ 
wiai(S  ^i?*^!  to:^.  1  J  l^qinbl^ifpr  tb^  re^uit,  ml  Itwecp^ 
e4l)y,ai^ticjipa|ipn,  ajkjtiie  riMii^  pfi  ^(tainoss  j^t  Jihfl4  pT'* 
g^?ed  with  such  tet)9ur,?  and  in  which  ^ll  mjj^caf^tJ^  and 
aU  ri^y,gre^  |iyeii;,emb^ked!  Put  |i.  spM^tery  ii)^4^^ 
lyliat  Qpuki  1 4^1  tibo^^whO;  wielded  :fti&  ppwiw:  ijf .^ 
cpwfMJK^  W  jf^^s^  rti^rA^wS;  and:  it  ;^  of  %tCti 

T^ei?e  -Wlis  #J  a  faint,  g^^n^ei^ng  of  hope  l^t,  that^p^^lia-. 
m^  nf^ight)^^  i|s  wisdom,  repeal  the  c»ders  in  eouncil  j 
aia4  jii4^8  i]t^xpl^#i^l'^  *o,cors*4bute^^ 
ledg€  to  an  iUustripus  and  independmtniemher  of  th^  hO" 
nQurable  bpdy,  I  wrote  thp  letter  Ui  tl^e  Appe;ndi2{;, JSfp.  2. 
Ifi^^wing: J^is  letter^  J  9Qi>sid^f4rit r^y p4w^  iP  giy^  a 
sj>(^^9t!ch pf  tl>e  vif w. ,i5?Jji9h myphse,r]i^ati|ttu$  kd.niecto 
tajs^e  jpffjthei  Jim  not  only  as.  aj^  a^^t,  Qf,'\grap 

t^de  ief  JJiCf fkjqad  hospifcllity  of  that  people^but  l^Gfiusi^ 
it  w£^  the  i^hion  of  the  day,  and  supported  by  one,  of  the 


^COTLANll. 


321 


molt  poimkr-of  the  pibrk)dia4.¥hrittrsj  to  traduoe  and  vi^ 
lify  the  ecnintiy  fay  every  iying  stmy  that  could  be  laid 

Tlu8  tetter  was  drawn  up  about  tlie  20th  of  January^  but 
it  was  not  sent  off  before  die  27th,  by  which  thne  wd;had 
the  news  of  the  first  fruits  of  the  orders  in  council-^^t^ 
American  embargo ;  and  this  brought  matters,  as  fiur  as  i 
was  concerned,  to  issue.  I  knew  from  My  letters  that  adt 
funds  would  be  locked  up  ill  Georgia ;  I  could  t^oulate 
upon  no  time  for  a  return;  so  I  made  the  best  afcranget 
inent  that  I  could  devise,  under  existing  circumstancesi 
and  resolved  to  wait  with  as  much  patietice  as  I  could  £[^ 
the  lesuk*  - 

u^liaving  completed  this  arrangement^  I  took  a  journey  to 
a^  my  f^tions  in  the  east  country. 

:  On  the  1^  >of  March,  1808,  I  lei^  Glasgow  by  th^ 
gtage  for  Stirling,  distant  27  miles.  The  first  13  miles  Is 
Arougbapiet^good country  to  l|ie  village  of  CumbemaUild, 
pi^ipally  oi^upied  by  muslin  weavers.  Two  miles  be* 
jGQpd  ttus  the  road  passes  the  Fo#i  and  Clyde  canal^  a 
work  of  greait  utility,  by  which  there  is  a  skx^  navigatoi 
from  one  side  of  the  island  to  the  other.  Four  miles  from 
thence  there  is,  an  extensive  printfieldt  after  which  the  rdad 
passes  through  a  dreary  moor,  tjU  wpthin  two  of  three  niiles 
of  &iiiing,  when  the  Carae  commences,  one  of  the  most 
fertile  spots  in  Scotland^ 

Stirling  is  situated  on  the  Forth,  at  the  head  of  sloc^ 
navigation^  an<^  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  having  been 
long  the  residency  of  the  Scottish  .kings,  and  i»  distiR<> 
guished  in  the  history  ef  the  wars  with  England.  It  b  si- 
tuated on  a  hiU,  somewhat  like  Edinburgh,  terminated  by 
a  castle,  fipom  whence^  there  b  one  of  the  most  niagnificent 


VOL.  I. 


2  s 


3d2 


TBATBL8  m 


i^ewt  m>  ScoUmid. .  Stilting  eoncal^'  about  5SXX>  people, 
n^  ttrryaa  coiisideivdisieixiflim^cmre^jvof  Wluch  carpet- 
ing is  the  cluef: 

"H^  From  Stirling  txl  Duntblaiie  is  six  mUes^  and  the  road 
ivinds  Ahvough  a  coumtiiy  as  romantic  as^  can'  weU^  be  ima- 
gined. It  is  the  opening  of '  the  OphiU  iHitts^  in  which  is 
the  cohfliieiQceolrthrto  considerable  fivers,  the  Fpr^,  tbe 
Tdth,  and  the  Allan.  h 

Dumblane  is  situated  on  the  latter,  and  is  a  flmaU^  place; 
abounding  in  little  dirty  houses^*  but  ornamented  with  the  re- 
mains  of  an  okl  cathedralL  -  From  hence  the  itod  continues 
itongthe  north  side  of  the  Sheriff  Moor^  wdl  known  in  Scot- 
tish history,  11  miles,  when  it  winds  to  the  nordiward,  and 
phypeeds  through  ikm  M^dor  of  QrchiU,  a  veiyelevated^coun- 
tiy^  from  die  summit  of  which  there  is  an  extensive  view, 
wtience  1  could  db^ryihe  seat  of  my  nativity^  ^  miles 
distant'  '••   •  '■.-  •■'    '"  ■•'   ■"  i-'V^^'i  ^-. 

^iife  FlasMng  Mtithil^i^iisinGlll'  viU^,  the  countrjri  in^MPibvi^ 
Mtw4i  miles  to  the^bsttdti^  df  ^tiie  liver  £m^  w^ibE'^cit^ 
M'by  a  gbodistcHiie  1^^^^^ 

aci^i(^^  i)f  half  a«idA^,^  Whettv  tefi%  situ^  the  brow 

0(fa*liiB/4s^  villaigeofCa^EFi'^  -^«i^  -  k^  <  -  1  r 
teThis^  is  but'  a^  i^maM^'pl^ldi^  but  it  was  kiteresting  to  me 
as4emg  tiie  country^  iny  ancestors^  I  speitt  some^litde 
time ai^iking myiieltttions,  and  then  set  forward  fer Meth> 
•*f!en,>  distent  11  miles*  The  country  between  Gricsff  and 
ll^^Sfiiven  Is  tolerably  gbod,  and  a  turnpike  road  liaa  lately 
Mi^iaiadei  which  rendaB^travelling  veiyrpieaianitiand  ex- 
pectit&is.>-  '  \  .;'■■■'  ■-  ::r-,;--'-v.  .:'.|-''^j-?^;iitev<^^r^ 
I  Having  spent  a  few  days  at  this  place,  I  shall  avail  my- 
sdf  of  the  c^>poitunityito  introduce  an  accoimt^^^^^ 
tive  pomh^  which  wi^  serve  to  illustrate  the  parish  estabr 
lishment  of  Scotland  generally. 


:•» 


SCOtlCiftlfA 


52S 


carpet- 

le  road 
3e  ima- 
'hichis 
l#if  the 


i,k 


■41  ■ 


1^ place; 
btJMre. 
)iit»iues 
in  Scot- 
iard,afid 
sd'^oun- 
veview, 


torbves 
^croiss- 
tty^tec^ 
he  broiw 

t&me 
mie^littk 

Heff  and 
las  lately 
and  ex- 

■    V  ■  '■ 

ivailmy- 
W^na- 
}h  estabr 


Thi^  VinajsetQf^MMhven  18  8iliiii«id^  miles  ttt the 
wettwrard^'Pcrth^t^^tfaeparrah^M^^  by  FoivMs  d« 

the  west  and  nolth ;  by  Moneidy  and  Redgorton  on  the 
east;  and  Tippermoor  on  the  south; '  Its : extreme  lengtb 
is  i^out  seven  miles,  and*  breaddi  three.  Its  area  is  about 
19  square  miles,:  and  its  contents  in  acres  12,100. 

The  surfiioe  is .  midiilatin]^,  some  part  of  it  hilly,  but  not 
mountainous ;  it  ik  well  suj^ed  widi  rivulets  and  springs; 
and  "the  river  Almond^r  a  romantic  stream,  abounding  ia 
fi^*  i  and  mill-seats,  runs  along  its  whole  northern  borni- 
dary,  a  distance  of  six  or  seven  milesw 

lite  soil  is  very  unequal*  About  five  square  miles  con- 
sist iai  mootv  which  is  unfit  for  cultivation,  butafibrds 
turC  and  heath  for  fuel,  and  some  little  gpizingb^^  Two 
miles  ^consist  of  moss,  ■  which  is  altogether  unfit  for  any 
agricultuial  puipose  ;^  but  a£fords  excellent  fuel,  called 
there  peaisk  Two  miles  are  in  wood,  called  the  wood  of 
Mefd^en. )  Sne  nulof  is  occupied  with  ^hi&  pokcies  fsSMs^- 
ym  toas^f  and  about^  as  mudi  with  those  of  Balgowan. 
(M  the  eight  remaining  ]i^e%,  one  thifd  may  be  reckoned 
ra^i^  pooCj  but  the  Teniainder  is  good  fertile  land. 

The  whole  pari^  is  owned  by  two  proprietors,  thence 
cj^ed  hmtors^  GolonelrSniith,  of  Methven,  has  ^^the 
largest  poFtiony  probably  not  less  than  three  fbtirths,  and 
the 'renuttnder  belongs  to  the  celebrated  general  Grahamf 
of&lgowani  There  was  until  lately  another  proprietor, 
who  owned*  an  estate  called  Tippermalloch,  consisting  ^ 
about  700  acre^  of  excellent  land;  but  not  being  ent^ed, 
it  was  sold,  on  his  demise,  by  hk  heirs,  to  Smith  oflSledi^ 
vei^fori^.iTj00a 

The  present  population  is  1280  males,  and  1373  fe- 
roalesf  In  all  2653,  being  nearly  140  to  the  square  mile ; 


9U 


vMmM'VH 


ivlil<rfi%  «^gita«t  "ti^lMaDeti,  wheil/iiiw'iiobtidttrliitfsniidl 
<|iiafitit5r  of  gODid  ia«d  in  th^  pariah/  The  tMil  immber 
of  faniiliea  in  577;  of  these,  137  are  emplojred  in  agrieul. 
ifiN^  th^ 'tfetmaitider  in  tMdea  and  Muniftftt^res.' '  The 
niiHinheryif  ifdiabited  hoifaes  ib  447,  of  whieh  149  are  in 
tib^  village  of  Methven.  The  nun^ber  of  ftmiliea  in  the 
vlilage  ia  24$;  •fS'Of  whom  are  employed  in  figricuhiire, 
the  real  hi  manufiustm^s,  trades,  8cc  The  total  number 
di  inhabitants  in  the  village  is  950 ;:  of  whom  100  are  wea« 
vet«,  18  shoemakers,  17  masons,  9  taylors,  10  wr^ghts 
(tsarpemers),  4>  stod^htg-makers,  ft  dock-makers,  2  tnttch. 
ers,^%ild  7''Storc^keeper8.  ^^-'^'^-^ ,.'^.''  ' ♦  '■  ?•.■.-■..  r. " 
^(  The  whole  land  m  the  parish  being  entailed,  thlffiunnen 
occupy  ^didr  ikrms  on  rent  from  die  proprietovs ;  and  huid 
lets  at  present  from  £.  1  10«.  to  £»SSsi  steiiing,  annu- 
lalfy,  per  Sebtsiacre,  which  is  about  one  fiAli  moie  than  an 
Bn^hh  acre.  The  farms  are  geiien%  let  on°  ktea  of  19 
yiearSi    ■  ■  -  •  ■•■■  ■■"•  '•  ••■■■  ■ 

The  legal  provinon  for  die  minister  of  th^  parish  con- 

^iilmwwhm^}^ts2^l(^  f9bmiSOmN»6i  land, 

(^led^  the  gMfh  ittid  the  remainder  k  paid  by  the  heri- 
tdrs,  idhb  generaHf  ihdemi^  diemsetve^  by  assessing  it 
oh  the  fdJNfhers  tO'  whom  they  Ik.  di^^tod^'  Thev  whde 
of  the  ifiinister's  ii^come  in  this  parish,  i^  about 'J^'SOo. 
The  average  in  Siiotlaind,  generally  may  be  reekotM  about 
-■j^i  200.  In  every  parish  diere  is  what  is  called'  »patnHf 
#ho  has  the  g^  of  presentation  ;  that  is,  when  s  vacancy 
takes  ip&oe  he  provides^d  candidate  of  his  ch^^,  aiidjMv- 
seritshbiT  Jo  the  people.  If  they  vote  for  1dm,  he  is  thence- 
forth' miniiter  (^  "dve  pariiih  r  if  they  are  dissatisfied,  ^he  is 
s^led  t»  fmnister  of  the  parish,  wA^M^  tkej^  vnU^miiot. 
J[n  conse^tience  of  thb  law,  a  great  schism  txmk  place  in 


thechu 

peoplo  I 

iegrfpn 
a  gardei 
ekilir  8 
sidea^  1 
t«»lypa) 
shiUing] 
it  wiiiro 
aschooli 

mfmt 

devote  tc 
taMishmi 
ded  teac 
die  setd( 


%-,i^  ^cann 
eh«lroh|a 
teg'%  sh( 
%ikichwi 

than  fadf 
along  ^t 
school  w: 
fwnny^ 
penny ; 
pence  oi  i 
'of  ooutse, 
t^nent,'a 


4' 


'*tO0TLAmii 


iSStS 


Aie  cliiifolit<and4n  ahndst  cvery^popiilou^  pariah  there  is  ^ 
^^mtkt  meeting:  In  this  parish  niariy  two  thirds  of  the 
people  SIC  seoeders. 

Th^4ohoohnaster  is  appointed  by  the  heritors^  'and  tiie 
iegslfNtifision  in  this  parish  b  a  house,  schoot-housev  and 
s  gardon*'^  A  small  inccrme  arises  from  the  office  of  session 
eletii;  and>  I  believe,  there  are  some  little  perquisites  be- 
sides^' The  remainder  of  the  income  arises  from  the  quar- 
terly payments  of  such  as  go  to  school.  It  is  now  one 
ihiUing  alid  six-pence  per  quarter,  but  m  my  young  days 
ib'  inii^  oidy  one  shIUing.  The  seceders  have  sometimes 
a  schoolmaster,  and  sometimes  not  The  office  is  gene- 
flilly<''fiile(l  by  one  of  their  young  men,  who  b  a  cancfidate 
ftii  tlie'miniBtry ;  ^ut,  fromthe  neoessaiy  time  that  he  must 
devote  to  other  studies,  it-  cannot  be  supposed  that  the  es- 
taMishraent  will  be  equal  io  the  other,  where  there  b  aset- 
tfed  teacher ;  diou^  it  answers  the  purpose  of  inducing 
die  settled  teadier  to  pay  more  close  attention  to  his 

*  I  cannot  b€ttdr  ^plaih  the  Or^  the  school  aiid 
dmrchi  and  dieir  connexion  one  with  another^  than  by  giv- 
ing a  short  sketch  of  die  plan  followed  in  my  early  life, 
%hich  wyi  also  explain  the  moral  economy  of  the  piarish. 
r  When  I' was  five  years  of  age^  we  lived  a  little  more 
diflii  half  a  mile  from  the  village ;  and  I  was  sent  to  school 
along  vridi  )m  elder  brother;  The  first  book  used  in  the 
scho(^  was  die  Shorter  Catechismy  "which  cost  one  half- 
penny^ The  next  in  order  was  die  Proverb^  price  one 
penny;  die  thiM  was  the  New  Testament y  price  s^ven- 
pence  oi  ei^tipence.  I  went  through  the  first  two  bodLs, 
d  coutse,  mid  at  seven  years  of  age  was  in  the  New  Tes- 
tmnent,  at  which  time  we  removed  to  the  village.    The 


326 


TlAVCLt  IMII 


next  ijradatkm  was  the  bible,  accompuiied  by.  .infitilig|y  and 
iVom  thenee  to  Latin  and  arithmetic ;  themnrtting  being 
continued.  The  hour  of  attendance  in  the  morning  waa 
9  Q^clook  in  summer,  and  10  o'ck)ck  in  winter ;  and  the 
scliool  was  opened  by  a  short  jvayer.  We  had  an  interval 
firom  1  to  2,  and  were  dismissed  at  6  o'clock  in  summer, 
and  in  winter  a  little  before  dark ;  when  we  had  agi^  a 
short  prayer.  The  Saturdays  were  devoted  to  repeat  ques- 
tions in  the  catechnra ;  and  on  Sunday,  besides  attendance 
at  church,  which  was  strictly  enjdned,  we  had  to  get  a 
psalm  by  heart,  which  we  repeated  in  the  school «»  Mon- 
day morning.  Those  fiuther  advanced  in  education,  got 
by  heart  the  proofs  to  the  Shorter  Catechism ;  and' some- 
times we  were  appointed  to  repeat  them  in  church,  after 
the  morning  service. 

;9>The  people  assembled  to  church  at^  10  o'clock  Mi  the 
morning,  when  the  exercise  began  by  singing  firom  8  to  12 
lines  of  the  Scots  psalms.  The  schoolmaster  was  pre- 
centor, and  all,  the  people  joined^  often  forming  ^a  most 
melodious  concerts  After  singings  the  minister  prayed,'  and 
then  read  a  portion  of  the  scriptures,  on  which  he  gave  a 
lecture,  which  genen^y  kisted  about  40  minutest  When 
it  was  fimshedf  he  gave  outtmother  pisalm  to  be  sung,  and 
this  was  odled  the  mid-psalm.  The  minister  then  prayed; 
gave  a  sermon,  and  a  prayer  after  it.  He  then  gave  out 
another  psabnt^:and,.witha  benediction,  dismissed  the  con- 
gt€gation*-'ms;*«ftt^4^r  ■..•  ,^^,,.■■  .  ■•.    .^.,    .-, 

4M  there  wte'any  children  to  i)e  baptist,  they  were 
presented  immediately  after  singing  the.  last  psalmi  and 
this  was  performed  with  great  solemnity^  in  the  face  of  the 
whole  congregation.    The  parent  was  admoiushed  to  train 
.  up  the  child  in  the  nurture  and  admonition  of  the  Lord — 


<tOOXL4MD. 


as7 


to  bOi^tttcmplaiy  iii.his^ftnulyt  and  to  givethe  child  an 
edueatkNn  aooordfoig  to  his  chrcumstanceft ;  whidir  'having 
asacntedvto,  the^child  was  admitted  a  member  of  the  church 
bj  baptism, -performed  bf  sprinkling  prater  on  the  iace. 
In  siimmervihere  waA  an  interval  oC  about  an  hour,  when 
the  congregation  again  met^  and  tlie  afternoon  cicerciae  was 
eofidttcted  in  the  same  way,  with  the  exception  of  the 
ketm«  and^mi^.)&tfa/ipn.  ii' 

j  illhe  worahqoi  in  the  aeceder  church  was  performed  ex* 
octtf;  in^the  same  way,  but  was  longer  continued ;  4ind  they 
had'  an  interval  both  in  summer  and  winter. 

.The  religious  tenets  of  the  parish  were  calvinistic,  in 
which  the  establidied  church  were  pretty  liberal ;  but  the 
seoeders  were  very  rigid  and  austere,  i  No  part  of  the 
discipline  however  had  any  tendency  to  clash  with  the 
atabltshed  habits  of  the  people,  except  that  which  pro- 
labibB^pfwnnitmotts  danemg;  that  is^  men  and  women 
danbing^' together.  We  had'^-^for  my  mother  wasa  seceder, 
and  I  was  one  df  course-^we  had'  frequent  addresses  from 
the  pulpit :on. the  profanity  of  this<  exercise,  and  the  old 
fllbuffe  elders  anJ^*  unco  guid'V  of  the  congsegation  were 
everlastingly  admonishing  the  youn^g  and  the  g^  agsdnst 
the  *'  awful  judgment  like  sin,  cxf  disregarding  the  cove, 
nants  and  standaids  of  the  church;''  but^so  they  might. 
The  young  and  the  gay  would  hear  them,  and  sometimes 
.\fxk  douce  on  the  occasion  too;  but  let  a  fiddle  and.bass 
strike  up  to  the  tune  of  *'  The  Highlandman.  kissed  his 
ntfther,"  or  the  *'Cameronian's  rant,"  the  heart-inspiring 
strain  would  immediately  vibrate  through  every  avenue  of 
the  body;  the  young  peasants,  and  often  the  old  ones, 
would  immediately  start  up  and  dat^pe  $  nor  would  they 
hatve  desisted  (I  speak  of  my  young  days),  I  verily  believe, 


^m 


TI^VJN#  ly 


although  Mit»  Johakfid  been  ln(th0EqlW^  nidSKjtocldivcr 
them  DVff  to  Satain  and  his  «oo^*  dbrAvMit  «l  hia*clbow, 
midy  to  execute  the  mandate. 

For  my  own  part,  I  waa  pasaionately  fond^tf  Soottiah 
mnaic  and  danciug,  from  the  earlieat  period  of  mynmem. 
brance,  and  we  had  mott  delectable  muaic  in  the. pariah. 
There  waa  a  man*of  the  name  of  John  Boiarie^  who  played 
delightfully  on  the  fiddle;  and  hia  brother ri^0i«f.« was 
equally  oelebrated  on  the  basa.  They  performed  lit  dl  the 
weddings  round,  and  a  wedding  oould  not  be  held  wiidi* 
out  music  and  dancing.  To  these  it  Waa  the  fiiahion  for 
the  young  boys,  for  many  miles  round,  tago;  andln^^ 
failed  to  embrace  every  opportunity  that  presented  Itaetfi 
Often,  on  a  stormy  winter  nighty  have  I  walked  th^te.or 
four  milea^  plashing  away  through  '*  dub  and  mireV'  biit 
the  moment  that  the  sound  of  the  fiddle  leached  my  ten, 
it  would  set  my  heiut «  capering  ao,  that  I  coidd  hanfly 
withstandvthe  temptation  to  dance  in  the  open  fields,  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  distant  firtm  the  scene  of  action, 
i  yl  cdnnol  devote  more  room  to  delineite  the  pecidiar 
manners  of  the  Scottish  petisanta.  I  shall  therefore  only 
observe  here^  that  those  in  our  pariah  wer^  genendly  apeak^ 
ing,  sober^  diacreet,  and  virtuous ;  and  teferring  to  the 
Ai^pendix,  No.  3,  for  further  pafticnlara,  I  shall  dose 
this  article  by  an  extract  firom  the  celebrated  Scottiah  baiti 
-^Robert  Bums. 


i<.'^. 


O  Scotia  !  niy^ear,it^'^l^i^yMt! 

For  ,vrbdm  my  warmest  whb  to  he»TMi  is  sent ! 
Loiigrroay  thy  lurdy  sons  of  rustic  toil 

Be  .blest  with  health,  an4  p^ce*  aod  sireet  coptent ! 


>     r 


And  I 


.<  Ffom  I 
n\y  appre 
««teyeai 
with  fine 
a^pds.i 
is  carried 
wj)t!\  wat< 

V  JVth  I 
wa|er,  anc 
T]|ie  scene 
con9|sti|ig; 
Inches,  u^ 


ofMoncri 
viejrainSi 

and^beauty 
Perth  cc 
employed 
on  with  R 
There  are  ' 
number  of 
sh^>.buildii 

VOL.  I. 


.-?< 


'-T' 


kivcr 
ilbow, 

soltiih 
menu 
pariih. 
played 

I  with, 
ion  for 

I'ltaetfi 

ti"  biit 

t  hardly 
fields,! 

pecidiar 
only 

f^  speak- 
to  the 
dose 
baifl 


rti 


ioot&AMD; 

"  ^* ''  > VAad,  .O I  flity  heaven  their  timpM  ^ivei  prevent 
^    .  ■  Fnm  iH^ry't  contagioi^  week  end  vile '. 
That  howe'er  crovftu  and  corpruu  be  rent,        , 
A  viETVQUt  ropuLAOv  may  rise  the  whilei 
And  stand  a  wall  of  fire  around  their  much-loved  Iblb. 


3d9 


>,;: 


v«f  r- 


From  Methven  I  went  to  Perth,  where.  I  had  served 
iqy  ^apprenticeship  to  business,  and  spent  a  number  oi'  my 
earjijr  yeanu  The  country  is  well  cultivated,  and  jlbOMnds 
with  fine  scenery.  The  eastern  p?xt  Qf  the  river  Almond 
a^l)^ds^ with  printfiel^  and  UeacAfi^lds,  and  a  large  canal 
is  c<urq^  from  it,  about  three  miles,  to  supply  the  town 
water,  on, which  there  are  very  important  works 


Perth  is  situa^d  on  the  river  Tay,  at  the  head  of  tide 
wa|er,  and  is  on^  of  the  handsomest  towns  in  Scotland. 
T^  scenery^around  it  is  vqry  rich,  and  the  public  property, 
opns|Sting,of  tv^o  fine  fields,  called  the  North  and  South 
Inches,  a];e  i|q|  <»ily,  ornamental,  but  highly  useful  to  the 
tc^;,^i^^ing;^nje  waUcs,  and  bleaching  an^  gipazing 
grounds.  To  4)e  east  is  tliie,  hill  of  Kinnoul,  about  800 
feg^^igl^,  and  (^  the  pppc^site  $ide  of  the  Tay,  is  the  hUl 
oC^^Moncrieff,  from^jkrhenqe, there  are  some  of  the  richest 
vii^s  in  Scot)an4|.,  Th^  is  an  elegant  stone  bridge  across 
the  Tay  at  Pexth,  which  adds  much  to  the  convenience 
and  .beauty  of  the  town, 

Perth  contains  about  15,000  people,  who  are  principally 
employed  in  trades  and  manufactures,  which  are  carried 
on  with  ^p(3at  spirit ;  particularly  in  linen  and  cotton. 
There  are  valuable  (fishings  upon  the  Tay,  which  keep  a 
number  of  vessels  employed  in  the  London  trade;  and 
sl^-building  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent. 

VOL.  I.  2  T 


-Vfc, 


%60 


TWfmMMV 


'>    The  sfttbtmni  educatkm  is  upon  an  excdknir/ooting, 
'^jparticularly  the  academy,  at  which  is.  taughl^a  college 
education  in  minature,  and  it  has  furnished  mpFC  good 
mathematical  scholars,  calculated  for  the  ordinary  occupa- 
tions of  life^  than  any  other,  semin^  that  has  ever,  coine 
v*.under  my  observation. 

^'  Having  spent  a  few  days  in  this  place,,  I  set,  out  by  the 
4coach  for  Methven,  and,  bidding  adieu  to -my  lelations,  I 
K^GOntinued  my  journey  to  Glasgow, 


e 

mi 

■     '':m 


.4,; 


-.i^-, 


14 


best  arranjg 
but  to  *carr 
dealdfditf 
take  a  Joui 

(JfasgOW  01 

to  JEdinbu 
atLeith.    ' 
ing  in  brd 
^»^ttvaiidj 
great  txttnt 
tTiepackeis 
to  an  hour; 
and  so  cauti 
none  of  then 
Kinghom, 
town,  buik  < 
which,  andc 
it  has  a  fine 
Four  mile 
gling  town, 
shore;  and 
hemp,  fla^jc,  a 


T  ^ 


.1  <mr 


• 

icdltAjifti 

td^l 

•       '  ■           ■        '               ,    ■     '    .           ' 

.- 

CfllPtfeA  XLTX. 

,  !^:5" 


S^inburghf — Dundee,^—I^aikland» 

I  MENTIONED  btlie  last  chapter,  thatlhadrtadfeftfe 
best  arrangement  I  could  under  existing  circumstances; 
but  to 'carry  it  into  full  effect,  was  attended  with  a  gbod 
deal  bf  difficulty ;  and  I  was  obliged,  in  consequence,  to 
fake  a  journey  to  the  east  countty.    I  accordingly  left 
Olasgow  on  ibe  5th  of  July,  and  travelled  by  the  coach 
to   Edinburgh.     Next  morning,   I  crossed  the  FortH"^ 
at  Leith.    The  Forth  is  here  seven  tniles  broad,  ehcreas-* 
ing  ih  breadth  to  tJie  eastward,  add  contracting  to  the 
westward;  ahd  there  are  sevehil  islands  in  it,  but  of  no 
great  extetit.  The  whole  presents  a  verjr  picturesque  view.' 
The  packed  genemlly  make  ^  passage  in  fh>m  40  minuted 
to  atl  hour ;  and  they  are  under  such  good  regulations,* 
and  so  cautiously  conducted,  that  from  tinie  immcinorial 
none  of  them  have  been  lost. 

Kinghom,  on  the  north  ^de  of  the  Forth,'ifl[  slhall 
lown,  buih  on  high  ground,  sloping  towards  the  Forth,  of 
wMch,  and  of  Edinburgh  and  Leith,  on  the  opposite  side^ 
it  has  a  fine  view. 

Four  miles  to  the  eastward  is  Kirkaldy,  a  long  strag- 
gling town,  built  mostly  on  one  street,  close  along  th^ 
shore ;  and  here  there  are  considerable  manufactures  of 
hemp,  fla^,  and  cbtton ;  particularly  of  checks  and  ticks. 


u 


/ 


6SQ  TBAYSIA  IN 

^  A  mile  beyond  th%>con  the  height^  is  ^Paifaliead,  where 
a  great  deal  of  weaviiig  is  done,  priticipellj  for  the  Kvkal- 
dy  manufacturers.  A  mile  to  the  e^  is  Dysart,  a  tittle 
town^remarkable^or  its  coal- works ;  and  the  whole  coast  to 
the  eastward  is  studded  with  towns,  ^pontaining  ^fiom  200 
to>400  people^-t^vT:    t.^ 

-  From  Pathhead;  I  travelled  16  miles' to  Cupar;  Arough 
a  variegated  country,  abounding  in  hill  and  dale,  woods  and 
small  rivulets.  The  soil  is  pretty  good,  and  the  system 
of  agriculture  is  in  a  very  advanced  state. 
t:  Cupar  is  the  county  town,  and  is  a  populous  and  thriy. 
ing  place,  having  considerable  manufactures ;  particularly 
of  linen  goods,  such  as  silesias  and  oznaburgs.  The  coun- 
try in  its  neighbourhood  is  remarkably  well  cultivated, 
and  the  farmers  have  every  aj^arance  of  wealth,  and  its 
usual  concomitant — independence. 

From  Cupar,  I  travelled  11  miles  to  Dundee,  and^  be- 
ing on  horseback,  I  took  tht  nearest  road,  whidi  led  me 
^ver  a  hilly  tract  of  country ;  but  the  soil  was  fertile,  and 
it  was  eyeiy  where  covered  with  fine  fields  of  gr^,  parti- 
cularly wheat. 

|.  While  I  was  enjoying  this  v  scenery,  and  contemplating 
the  bounty  of  Providence,  I  was  joined  by  a  very  commu- 
niqitive,  garrulous  friend,  who  told  me  he  was  a  plasterer 
in  Dundee.  He  began  a  long  talk  about  Aiperica,  part  of 
which  I  knew  before,  mid  part  of  which  was  never  known 
by  mortal  man.  But  it  was  all  gospel  in  my  friend's  eyes. 
He  had  it  from  the  best  authority :  he  couid  not  be  mis- 
taken.— Among  other  tales,  he  mentioned  that  u  gentle- 
man, of  the  name  9f  Miller,  had  left  a  good  trade  in  Dun- 
dee to  go  to  America,  and  had  settled  in  the  back  woods 
among  the  savages;  and  yet  he  had  come  back  to  try 


to  get  his  wife' to  go  out  also;  alleging  that  it  was  a  bet- 
ter country  than  this !  y  But,''  added  he^  "  I'm  veiy  well 
pleased  where  I  am,  and  intend  to  remain  in  Dundee." 

On  drawing  towards  our  place,  of  destination,  the  road 
descends  by  a  winding  course  of  considerablQ  extent,  froiti 
whence  there  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Firth  of  Tay, 
which  we  crossed  by  a  ferry  nearly  three  miles  broad,  and 
immediately  entered  the  town  of  Dundee,  where  I  stopped 
for- the  night.  -.^t-r.-r^kriixntf^ 

Dundee  is  a  large  town,  containing  upwards  of  26,000 
inhabitants,  who  have  extensive  and  well-organized  manu- 
fectures  of  hemp,  flax,  and  cotton ;  particularly  cotton- 
bag^g,  sail-cbth^  oznaburgs,  and  coloured  threads.  It 
is  one  of  the  principal  shipping  ports  in  the  east  of  Scot- 
land, and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  to  the  Baltic,  finom 
which  the  principal  raw  materials  for  the  manu&ctures  are 
drawn. 

i  soon  finiriied  my  business  here,  and  returned  to  Cu- 
par. From  thence  I  travelled  to  Auchtermouchty,  about 
nkie  miles  to  the  westward,  through  a  tolerably  fertile 
country.  Here  also  there  are  considerable  linen  manufac- 
tures* My  business  was  soon  finished  at  this  place,  and 
I  immediately  set  out  for  Edinburgh.  The  only  place  of 
nctc  that  I  passed^  was  Falkland,  once  the  residence  of 
the  kings  of  Scotland.  The  remains  of  the  palace  are 
still  to  be  seen,  but  it  is  a  miserable  pile  of  building,  hav- 
ing a  room  or  two  occupied  as  a  carpenter's  shop ;  not- 
withstanding, it  has  a  hereditary  keeper,  with  a  considera- 
ble salary!  i 

Ofte  of  the  beautiful  Lomond  hills  rises  immediately  to 
the  south  of  Falkland,  and  reaches  an  elevation  of  about 
1200  feet.     Seyen  or  eiffht  miles  to  the  vvei^ws^'d  »  the 


other)  and  thef&  b  a  ccmtmued  fidge  betweeh  theiti^  whibh 
affordd  pasture  for  a  great  many  sl^eep. 

The  whble  of  the  coutity  of  Fife  abound*  with  coaI> 
kon,  and  other  minerals. 

I  reached  Edinburgh  in^ii# lul^g,  and  next  day  re- 
tttimed  to  Glasgow. 


~;^> 


ki^^:1^>N^';b#f?*-||ft?^  *fe»#:*f  r 


■.iii-.*.j\-  * 


i'?!!*-- 


i^J 


.«^f.*^ 


?.)i/-^'-; 


V.V' 


^0t*" 


¥ 


'ti^sl 


!:r#^^5t«^;#.'S':; 


iffi^ii..-, 


iKHiCi/f 


™^      "H'rf^ili^ 


f^-m^^t 


'?irK?^k«f|il.. 


--j4-,. 


kM')^''lMmM^':^- 


U*  viV-    .%,*•-'*»«'*■%" 


sfi^jii 


■«..*.  f--*%v^  ,>jifci,y|s  .,-^.M-*jtfc* 


,<^v^c^j 


fiit^ 


:«lk^' 


^8C0Tl«4«rQ. 


335 


r'l-tt^i    "i's.-iJ'.JJ*.  ;.■   '   'Vi,  K- £■('■■.' in:' -;' 


i-    .*■■«'..;? 


w  ■?^;.■.^^j... 


CHAPT^E  L. 


ii.^ 


OUtsgcWy — Edinburgh^ — Mr,  Fox's  birth-day. 

1  HE  orders  in  council  still  continued  their  baleful  ope. 
ration,  and  I  was  kept  in  a  state  of  inactivity  most  uncon. 
genial  to  my  established  habits.  But  there  was  no  help  2 
'*  the  king  willed  it ;"  and  I  was  obliged  to  submit. 

Under  this  disagreeable  feeling,  I  was  glad  to  avail  my* 
self  of  any  active  and  rational  amusement ;  and  two  much, 
valued  friends,  one  of  them  a  merchant  of  Liverpool,  hav- 
ing invited  me  to  take  a  jaunt  to  Edinburgh,  1  accepted 
!t  with  pleasure;  the  more  so,  as  T  heard  that  the  birth- 
day of  Mr.  YeojL.  was  to  be  celebrated  within  a  few  days. 

We  left  Glasgow  on  the  20th  of  January,  1809.  Mr. 
Fox's  bir^-day  was  celebiated,  by  the  whig! party  in 
Edinburgh,  on  the  24th.  Being  acquainted  with  several 
members  of  that  illustrious  body,  I  applied  lor  tickets  for 
my  Liverpod  friend  arid  myself;  and  we  joined  the  party 
accordingly.  A  Iriend^  who  had  assisted  in  arranging  the 
mu^c,  and  whose  place  was  to  be  opposite  the  band,  that 
he  .might  ^ve  the  necessary  instructions,  obligingly  ac- 
commodated us  with  seats  beside  himself;  so  that  we 
were  placed  in  a  fevouraUe  situation  for  observation. 

The  company,  nearly  200  in  number,  assembled  at  6 
o'clock.  Mr.  Maul,  of  Panmure,  took  the  chair ;  sir 
Harry  Moncrieff  was  chaplain.  The  company  generally, 
in  point  of  respectability  of  character,  liberality  of  senti- 


«,#-.' 


m 


# 


336 


TSAVBE.8   IN 


# 


ment,  and  brilliancy  of  intellect,  ranked  high  among  the 
living  characters  of  the  present  day.  What  a  blessing  it 
would  be  for  mankind,  thought  I,  if  the  councils  of  states 
could  be  animated  by  the  spirit,  and  actuated  by  the  con. 
duct,  of  such  men !  Btit^Fravidetnce  has  (no  doubt  for 
wise  reasons,  though  inscrutable  to  us)  ordered  it  other- 
wise, and  we  must  submit,  and  hope  for  better  days. 

The  first  toast,  "  The  glorious  and  immortal  memory 
of  Charles  James  Fox,"  was  drank  in  silence,  and  stand- 
ing. This  was  followed  by  a  dirge  fi'om  the  band  of  vo- 
cal music;  after  which  we  had  the  song  of  "  Scots  wha 
hae  wi'  Wallace  blcdj*'  foUouted  by  the,  air  to  which  Bums 
originally  composed  it,  by  the  inimitable  band  of  Natha- 
niel Gow;  and  so  mournfully  pathetic  did  they  play  it^ 
that  it  brought  a  plentiful  shower  of  tears  from  the  eyes 
of  many  of  the  company.  ;  juxir  v>  f      ;      ^^/n.  , 

•  MiEierjT  toast  was  i  followed  by  music,  and  never  ^  did  I 
hear  music  more  elegant  or  better  arranged^  Nathanid 
Gow,  a  soi^  of  the  celebrated  Nid  Gow,  led  the  band,dnd, 
to  use  the  :langu^  of  my  Liverpool  friend,  he  "  handled 
his  elbolv  in  great  style ;"  and  w^  well  support^  by  the 
other  performers.     ■    i     '   ■:]  y  "■\^.-y.<-Ui<-h- 

7f  Th&tndtice  of  a  few  of  tlie  leading  sentiments,  with  the 
mu&ic  that  followed,  will  set've  to  illustrate  the  spirit 
of  the  company:-  ■■ .   ■       ■  .."^_  a^aii'ir  i-'tm^'^k^' 

0  Toast — -The  whig  psffty  of  ScodandM 

Toast — Whigs  of  England,    -"urrii^  i:  ni  h^hiio 
.,   Mufic—O  the  roast  beef  of  Old  England.        ,     ^ 
•^ii^ToAST — Whigs  of  Ireland.    ^'- 
4  il/«*Mv-^Erin  go  bragh. , 


mit: 


ii!^?.5' 


UUOii 


# 


Oi', 


Am€5WGa,Kand  jn»tke  tp,  foreign  povi^.,^       .      ■,j-0mi 

)lXjasL]^  not  be  iirproper  J^ier©  to  show  tlwiiJegpee  pf  esti*: 
ina$i(Ki»M  whichjordj^^elyitt^^,  W98^^  h^^  the  whigs  of 

ScQlJjUfiq.  ,,  •  -^-^smimiit^y-        ..-^v..^,..  ,, ..^f.jn' 

The^(Mc^p^  stal^d^.  d^  he^hadjately  perceived  cer- 
t^il^aUuaiQns  to  his  lordship  in  the  ncwsp^^s,. supposed 
to  J)e^pr^p«ra{oiy  to  the  introduQtion  of  that  nobleman  to 
his  m^jeslir's.  councils ;  he  would  therefore  propose,  as  .|l^ 

May  Ipini^  M^ville  be  exalted  9S^xiqe^^  to  his  merit.  ,^ 
^JOhooujUsippiayed^^^^^^^^  and  this  was  JpUowe4 

by.%S)atirical  song,  beginning  iifer««i«fc 

«  Tak  ye  tent,  tny  guid  chicl,  o*  my  bbnn^  Mark  Spirott.** 

fBfifeeJeaving  !&dinburgh,  we  heard  the  melancholy 
accent  of  the  bi^tle.  of  Corunna,  and  the  saicrifice  of  one 
of^lh^  xnojidi  ga|ljil»t  of  Britantua's  spns*  w,  John  Mpore^^ 
A^^iQr.,wh»t?^^to  support  the  indsependenc^  of  Spain  > 
and^For^gall  say  the  British, ministry.    To  support  th^: 
saine  ministry  in  power^  and  their  adhei^ntsin]^Ge!  says 
sober  reaspn*,,^  *  ► 

^Ec^  weather  w^  dreadfully  col4>dunng  our  stay  at 
Edinburgh,  tlie  thermometer  being  one  day  as  low  as  2°. 
On  our  way  to  Qlasgow,  the  snow  was  so  deep,  that, 
during  a  considerable  part  of  the  journey,  we  had^ji^^ 
horses  in  the  carriage.        ^m-^m^.;^^ 


2  u- 


VOX.    I, 


^S9S 


TiAVSlit  iir 


y»-'  / 


6HAPTfiR  i^. 


.^Ubi^imm^  >-• 


''f!-. 


Vburriej/  id  Ireldra,^P&rt  Patfv:k,^Bdfdsty^Dmdrum 

Bay, — Newry. 

^A  F£RIQD<  was  at  last  put  to  my  state  of  inactivity. 

jQn  thje  17th  of  July,  as  I  walked  along  the  sbneet,  the 

carrier  put  a  packet  of  letters  into  my  hands,  which.,  bore 

the  po^maric  of  Castle- fTellan,  in  Ireland*    On  opening 

.Jt,  I  foiand  it  contained  an  invoice  and  bill  of  lading  of  a 

t  cargo  of  cotton,  shipfted  by  the  JUucy Jiroi^n  Savannah ;  but 

,^^e  vessel  was  bound  to  Liverpool,  and  the^e  was  nothing 

.to  explain  why  my  letters  should  have  been  put  ^ishore  at 

l^lpastle-WeUan.    I  dreaded  a  shipwreck,  and  made^inune^ 

;|diate  preparations  to  go,  to  Ireland.       .^.^i^.  myf 

I  left  Glasgow  by  the  niaii  stagiti  on  tK«  19tfa,,^d^  t);a- 
I^Vell^g  thromgh  a  tolerably  fertile  cQ^ntry  about  Tunnies, 
^^passed, through  a  chain  of  barren^ hills,  of  no  great  hciglit, 
t, about  7  miles  more.  Eight  miles  beyond,|hi8  is  Kilmar- 
l^iiocky  and  towards  it  the  country  is  a  little  improved*  • 
^-  Kilmarnock  is  a  straggling,  dirty,  little  carpet-manufac- 
tory ^place,  which  merits  no  other  notice,  tha|i  as  being 
doomed  to  inunortality  by  Robert  Burns, 


fki 


Kilmarnock  wabsters,  fidge  an'  clawj 
An'  psur  your  creeshie  nations  j 

All'  ye'wha  leather  ra^w  ttn*  dnvr, 
Of  ft' denominations  > 


■f  ?  "■■.•' 


:■[•••,    <  • 


* 


# 


*♦ 


SiOOTtAKD. 


339 


■^»A 


4  p  jf^>  >'Swith  to  the  laigh  kirk  ane  an*  a*,        ^>*'^-*» 
.  .tuMTiiiiiiH      An*,  there  tak  up  your  stations/ 
j|yi,.    ^    Then  aff  tc  Bigbie*»  in  a  raw, 
And  pour  divine  libations 

For  joy  this  day. 

We  stopped  at  the  said  Bigbie's,  and,  for  the  humour  of 
the  thing,  I  called  for  a  libation  of  porter;  but  there  was 
no  joy  in  the  drinking  of  it — it  was  sour,  stale,  and  spirit- 
less. 

Frdtti  KilmalTiOck  to  Ayi^  i^  12  itiiles :  the  t^d  is  v%iy 
gdod;  but  the  country  ii  poor,  although  it  certainly  bears 
ah  exceMeiit  crop  of  "  bonny  lasses:"  the  \irbmen  of  Ayr- 
shire are  beauttful.  J        '«^ 

On^enteting  the  tbwn  of  Ayr,  every  t^ng  that!  saw  re- 
minded m6  of  my  fevourhe  bard.  The  **  Dtlhgeoft  Clock" 
and  "  Wallact  Tower,"  the  "  twa  steeples,"  could  be  seen 
at  aMistaiire,  and  L passed  by  the  "New  Brig,"  where  a 
little  way  up  the  stream  I  saw  the  "  Atild  Brig;"  and  the 
whole  ficenery  brought  the  extraordinary  dialogue  between 
the  "  Brigs  of  Ayr'*  fresh  to  my  recollection. 

Ajrr  has  ho  numuiactiures  for  America,  and  Ihad  not  a 
moment  t6,view  the  town ;  so,  procuring  a  chaise,  I  posted 
^'night'  tbivaids  Port  Patrick.  The  night  was  dark,*damp, 
ahddbmal;  but  my  haste  would  brook  no  delays  I  hur- 
lii^  on:  at  midnight  I  was  at  Girvan,  at  daylight,  at  Bal- 
labtrae^  and,  at  8  o'clock,  i  bi^eakfasted  bn  the  east  side  of 
Loch  Ryan.  From  thence  the  road  passes  through  a  poor, 
moory  country  to  Fort  Patrick,  wluch  I  reached  at  one 
o'clock.  • 

Here  I  was  informed  that  the  packet  had  not  sailed  for 
five  days,  such  had  been  the- violence  oi  the  weather;  and 
that  a  number  of  passengers  were  in  waiting,  one  of  them 


4 


% 


34h  TllX^LS  IN 

h  gentf^maTrtPB^  abquamtftnce  from  Glasgow,  *b<j|ind  to 
Ireland  on  an  errand  of  the  same  nature  as  my  Own.  It  was 
Sunday,  and  the  gentlemen  were  at  church*;  but  I  was  told 
they  would  sOon  return,  when  they  would  take  dinher,  and 
the  packet  would  sdiPiiVihiediately  after.  I  was  rejoiced  at 
thJs  intelligence,  and  ran  up  stairs  to  shave  and  clean  myself ; 
but  the  despatch  was  greater  than  I  had  been  led  to  ima- 
gine, for  I  had  only  got  my  beard  h^  off  when  I  was'in- 
fbfmed  that  I  must  immedi^ltely  go  on  board  the  jacket, 
'Ariose  my  ptesa^ ;  I  therefore  buckled  up  my  trumpery, 
Mid,  in  the  style  that  the  Israelite  messengers  were  once 
presented  to  their  king,  half  shaved  half  not,  I  presented 
mysfelf fhi'  board*  the  packet-boat,  and  she  immediately  got 
undler  wav.         *  ^ 

'  TdKi  PATRicfK  is  one  of  the  most  smgular  ports  I 
cver-*i!vv.-  The  toWn  consists  of  a  few  houses  only,  and 
the  hdrbour  is  a  smill  inlet  ambng  a  Ihrge  Tna<sS:  of'rugged 
rocks.  The*  whole  ccAst )  is  lofty  and  lined  with  rocks ; 
and  this  h^boup,  small  as  it  isr,  is  the  only  place  where  a 
bo^t  co\:ild'l^d  for  many  miles,  oh  which  account  it  is  one 
of  t\k  gr6Kt  thoroughfares  to  Ireland;  where  the  mail  pack- 
ets dail3r  cross.  The  mode  by  which  they  warp  the  boats 
out  aiTd  in,  is  very  ingenious  and  singular.  # 
^  The  t^nd  was  almost  right  ahead,  and  the  swell  consi- 
derable, but  we  got  warped  out,  and  put  to  sei;  For  the 
&^  few  hours  the  weather  was  pretty  moderate,  and  we 
got  aSbut  half-way  across,  when  the  wnd  increased  to  a 
very  severe  gale,  which  continued  all  night  and  great  part 
of  next  day.  The  passengers  in  the  cabin  were  mostly  all 
sick,  and  in  all  my  passages  across  the  Atlantic  I  never 
suffered  so  much.  But  in  the  steerage  it  was  more  seri- 
ous.   The  captain  was  obliged  to  shut  the  iiatches  j  and, 


the  vess 

were  all 

about  ii^ 

of  their 

we  were 

Two 

us  over  I 

dy^a  dom 

»   The  d 

tain  agaii 

are  not  a 

produced 

tieth  part 

yet^  on  la 

hensions. 

induced  ] 

post^ohais 

my  Glasg 

mvown: 

and  at  da; 

he  to  go  t 

with  all  th< 

carry  me, 

vJii'mj^^ 

vesselj  and 

wreck  on  t 

lie  sale  of  ] 

The  suj 

it  was  all  k 

so  complei 

questionabl 

and  the  ex] 


«-» 


^^HilllLAMD* 


341 


the  vessel  beinf^  (SroiWdtd  with  passengers,  some  of  them 
were  almost  stifRed  to  death.  In  this  way  we  were  beat 
about  in  the  channel  for  24  hours,  often  within  a  few  miles 
of  the  Irish  coast,  though  we  could  not  reach  it;  and  finally 
we  weve  obliged  to  put  back  to  Port  Patrick. 

Two  dayt  thereafter  we  had  a  fair  wind,  which  wafted 
us  over  27  miles,  in  a  few  hours;  and  we  set  foot  on  Pad' 
dy^s  dominions  just  as  it  began  to  get  dark. 
*'  The  degree  of  prejudice  that  is  artfully  kept  alive  in  Bri- 
tain against  Ireland  would  hardly  be  believed  by  those  who 
are  not  acquainted  with  it;  and  such  was  the  effect  it  had 
produced  on  me,  that  though  I  did  not  believe  the  twen- 
tieth part  of  the  stories  that  were  told  of  the  '^  wijlitl  Irish," 
yet)  on  landing  at  Donaghadee,  I  had  considerable  appre- 
hensions as  to  my. personah  safety ;  and  nothing  coiild 'have 
induded  me  to  travel  alone  at  that  hour  of  the  night  in  a 
post^ohaise*  I  the^fore  availed  myself  of  the  company  of 
my  Glasgow  friend,  whose  business  was  equally  urgent  as 
my  own :  we  posted  all  night  by  Belfast  and  Hillsborough ; 
and  at  daylight  arrived  at  Baiilbridge»  Here  we  parted, 
he  to  go  to  Wexford;  I  took  a  post-chaise,  and  drove  on 
with  all  the  despatch  that  a  pair  of  very  sorry  horses  would 
carry  me,  to  iDuildnim  bay. 

Oii'mywajrtluther  I  learned  the  unfortunate  fate  of  the 
vessel^  and,  <»i  reaohing  the  spot-,  I  found  her  lying  a  total 
wreck  on  the  shore,  and  the  inhabitants  tollected  to  a  pub- 
lic sale  of  her  materials.  '  - 

The  supercargo  assured  me  that  all4he  cargo  was  sa^; 
h  was  all  landed  to  be  sure,  but  on  examination  'I  found  it 
so  complet^y  drenched  with  sea^water,  tliat  it  was  very 
questionable  whether  it^wou^  bring  one-third  of  its  value, 
and  the  expences  I  found  would  be. excessive*    My  first 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


O 


^  >. 


'^S 


fit 


4^ 


1.0 


1.1 


am 

in    12.0 


■  1.8 


1'-''  i^  U4 

^ 

6"     

► 

HiotogFa{M: 

Sciences 

Carporalion 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRKT 

WnSnR,N.Y.  14SM 

(716)S72-4S09 


4^ 


4% 


343 


TRATBIiS  IN 


impression  was^  that  we  should  sell  oflNfaef  whole  cti  tl^ 
spot,  and  the  agent  and  I  had  an  advertisement  drawn  up 
to  that  e&ct;  but'this  not  meeting  the  approbation  of  my 
friends  in  Britain,  nor  the  owners  of  the^other  parts  of  the 
cargo,  Ir reluctantly  yielded  up  my  opmion  to  theirs,  and 
agreed  to  ship  it  to  Liverpool:  in  consequence  of  jthis  de- 
termination, I  was  detained  eight  weeks  in  Ireland*  »>^^ 
^  As  our  agent  lived  at  Newry,  I  had  frequent  occadon 
to  go  tliere^  and  I  found  him  a  most  hospitable  man,  frank  j 
friendly,  and  obliging'i  The  morning  after  my  arrival  he 
oairied  me  to  the  co£fee-house,  where  there  was  an  animat- 
ed debate  conaming  a  newspaper;  and  which  subject, 
though  ap]}arently  trifling,  actually  mvolved  ihs  catho&e 
question.  One  of  the  subscribers,  a  very  respectable  mer- 
chantfin  the  place,  was  charged  *with  a  breath  t>f  the  r^les, 
hy  abstracting  the  public  papers  for  his  own  private  use. 
The  charge  was  foumled  on  the  trivial  circumstance,  that 
the  gentleman  being  confined  to  his  bed  by  indisposition, 
his  clerk  wished  to  conununicate  a  piece  of  very  interest- 
ing intelligence^  and  carried  away,  with  ieave  of  the  bar- 
keeper, one  of  the  papers  which  contained  it,  after  the 
rpom  waft; shut  at: ni^t,  wliich  he  returned  beforeiit^was 
opened  in  ?the'  morning.  A  common  observer  would  have 
thought  that  there  was  really  no  harm- in  this :  itwas^ttlcu- 
lated  to  injtue  nobody ;  and  if  there  was  ai^  blame  at  all, 
it  nested  mth^ie  dlerk,  not^the  employer^  But  so  did  not 
one  .of  the  subscribers';  think.  He  made^t  the  ground  of 
f  a«most  serious  charge^  in  which  he  overlooked  the  clerk  al- 
together, And  fixed  on  the  employer  only.  The  matter  was 
explained,  and,  as  might  have. 4ieen  ezpectody  the  charge 
^nas  scouted  by  the  good  sense  of  the  people.  '*  Why  was 
it  made?"  mi^  be  asked,  with  surprise,  by  those  who  do 


IBfeLAHlH 


sa 


» the 

wn  up 
of  my 
of  the 
rs,  and 
hbde- 


nflt  know  the  management  of  regukr  gauemmfnts^  The 
gentleman  who  made  it  was  an  officer  under  government, 
and  6  heresy  hunter;  his  antagonist  had  the  audacity  to 
beaMomancathoHe*  " 

^ewry  is  situated 'On  a  river  called  Newry  Water,  at 
the  head  of  Carlingford  Bay,  and  enjoys  a.very  considerai 
ble  commerce,  especially  in  the  Liverpool  trade.  The 
bay  ia^  navigable  for  large  vessels,  to  within  a  few  miles  of 
the  town,  and  the  navigation  is  thence  continued  for  smaller 
vessels  into  the  town  by  a  canal,  which:  runs  to  Lough 
Neagh.  ^ The. greater  part  of  the  town  is  low,  and  not 
veiy  clean ;  but  part  of  it  is  on  high  ground,  on  wluch  the 
church  stands,  with  a  low  squat  steeple.  The  country 
round  is  hilly,  except  to  the  north-west,  where  it  spreads 
out  into  fine  fertile  plains.  The  peculiar  configuration  of  the 
town  and  state  of  society  in  it,  occasioned  die  following 
lines  from  the  satirical  pen  of  Dean  Swift:  t 


i..  %<^igh  church,  low  steeple, 
mi^^^xmrn^      Dirty  •treeta,  and  proud  people. 


^<, 


Whetiher  «the  people  in  general  deserve  the  character^  I 
cannot  say;  but*  those  among  whom  I  associated  certainly 
did  not.  I  found  them  frank,  afiabk,  polite,  and  friendly. 
>  My  bu»ness  in  Ireland  proved  much  more  troublesome 
than  was  originally  anticipated,  and  I  #as  induced  to  go 
t&  Belfiut  to  make  some  enquiry  concerning  it.  From 
Newfy  ta  Bainblndge  is  10  miles,  through  a  tolerably  good 
soil,  in^roving  towards  the  latter  place,  which  is  a  siilaK 
town,  surrounded  by  fine  bleachfields,  and  has  a  go6d 
linen -market.  Five  milea  beyond  B^nbridge  v^'passeA 
Dromore>  the  aeat  of  one  of  the  Irish  bishops ;  an^  four 


mk 


TMmmuBmi 


inUeBiAtbm  tbenoe  we  reaelMi'iHUlsbo^oughHinelf  aittiated 
ih  a^tich  ond  flourishing  country^  and  contatning  about 
100^  houses;'  'The  church  is  an  elegant 'boUdmg,  #itha 
4)S(^  Idfty^lrpiiP^  aikbi^ie'  windowsMire-  stained^^n  imkaUon 
bf  some  of  the  English  cathedialsj^.-^his  is  tlieiseat>of 
the  Bonmsliii^fiimtly,  one  of  the-  most  iivcalthy  lit  Ireland. 
Three  miles  beyond  this  is  Lisbum,  a  thriving  little 
t6Wn,iit^which  cotton  manufactories  have  been  established 
t&a  v^con^derabler^xtent  r  and  «even  miles  from  dience, 
through  r^very  elegant  country,  and  highly  cukivated,*  is 
tfaetownof  Belfest.  '^        t  ? 

^  BELTASTfis  situated  at  the  head  o&Bel£is^Lou^and 
is  a  handsome  place,  having  extensive  cotton  and  linen 
manufactories^  andu  very  considerable  shifting  ttrads^i  I 
^na  detained  here  piiart  6f  two  days,  and  found  the4nhabi- 
tiints  very  civil  and  oMigmg.  Those,  in  partieulavi  urith 
whom  i  had  business,  were  uncommonly ^lentivei  and 
6ne  gentleman^^  iii4iof  was  ti  good  ideid  oonversant^  with  die 
ntlode  of  ^mariaging'shi^wrecks  and  damaged  cotton,  agreed 
to  psr^me^  risk  1ft  Dundrum  Bayi  and  giv^me^totbest 
advice.  This  matter  being  setded,^  ^^lietiifiied^  to»#l€Wfy. 
K:/We  changed  horSes  at  Bainbridge,^  the^  pkide  whole  I 
peirtod  with  my  friend  on  niyr  way  to^^Dundnim  Bay. 
l^e^  hostler,^  humorous-loolring^fellow,  reiogmze^  me. 
*^  ^^c*  not  you  the  gentleman,"  said  hcj*  "  thatrl  got'#ie 
ohttse  for 'the^t'<llher  mornings  and  that  gave  me -a  five- 
penny  in  ^lace  of  a  ten-penny,  because  he^had  no<r  more 
dKinge?^^  <^  May  be  tso,''  said  l»  takings  n^tseat^  the 
cttriage.  r  "  And  shall  I  really  dmt  the  dipor  f"^  say%  he 
looking^very  kimerously  in  my-  &CQhv  'Certainly,"  SfMd  I, 
pretending  .ignorance  of  his  meaning  t  H we  canfttlnivel 
with  the  carrit^  door  open.'*    ^'  Well  now,"  sud  hQ>  still 


;i 


mitAi^bi 


US 


hokiing  ^  ^ooti  *^  wli6  would  hoVe  expected  it  fhiiii  ^tm 
good,  generous-looking  face  ?"  "  By  my  shouij**  «dd  I, 
PMldy,  (giving  himateii-penny),  **  if  jrou  faishmen  don't 
make  iHotiey,  it  Will  not  be  for  want  of  brats.'*  **  Oeht 
dear,  sure  our  tongues  were  never  meant  for  the  pocket,** 
said  Paddy,  shutling  the  door  with  a  humorous  smile,  and 
we  drove  on* 

From  Newry  I  returned,  accompanied  by  my  ftiend,  to 
Dundhim  Bay,  where  I  had  immense  trouble  with  the 
eargo ;  but  this  subject,  though  of  gi^t  importance  to  me, 
being  of  ho  consequence  to  the  reader,  I  shall  pass  it  over^ 
and  notice  a  fe<w  of  those  occurrenoes  which  are  more 
generally  interesting^ 

Dttndrum  Bay,  where  the  vessel  was  stranded,  ia  a 
llir^  <beild  in  the  Irish  Sea,  extending  across  from  Anna* 
loit^  on  the  south-west,  to  Point  St.  John  on  the  south- 
east, about  13  miles;  and  it  extends  into  the  countiy  about 
five  Miles.  To  the  west  are  the  lofty  Mome  mountaina, 
one  of  them.  Slave  Donard,  the  highest  in  Ireland.  To 
the  nordl-east  of  die  mountains,  the  country  spreads  out 
into  pretty  fertile  fields. 

At  *ftie  foot  of  the  mountams  stands  Newcastle,  a  small 
tillage,  and^m  thence  eastward  the  sea  shore  is  a  sandy 
beach^  two  miles  to  Dttndrum,  where  there  is  an  inlet. 
This  inlet  'Spi'eads  to  the  east  and  west  a  considerable 
distance ;  the  western  part  is  a  narrow  peninsula,  abound^ 
in^'  with  rabbits,  and  has  been  converted  into  a  rabbit 
warte.  The  Lucy  w^as  driven  ashore  on  the  eastern  part 
df  this  peiiinstlia ;  and  the  cargo  was  landed  on  die  pre- 
misbs  6f  the  proprietors  of  die  rabbit  warren,  a  very  re- 
spetitiaible  iikhd  hbspitable  finnily,  where  I  found  the  captain 


"VOL.  t. 


2it 


S4d 


TBAVBLB  IN 


Hid  supercargo;  and  with  whom  I  also  lodged  during  my 
stay  there. 

^  The  landlord  was  near  70  years  of  age,  Tery  stout 
made,  remarkably  humoursome,  and  a  great  lover  of  the 
game  of  whist  The  landlady  was  nearly  as  fond  of  whist 
as  her  husband ;  and  when  they  joined  their  forces,  they 
were  an  overmatch  for  almost  all  who  ventured  to  play 
against  thenu 

I  They  had  a  large  fiimily,  all  grown  up,  of  whom  four 
sons  and  three  daughters  were  at  home;  they  all  played 
whist:  they  were  also  visited  by  some  of  the  most  res- 
pectable people  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  often,  in  the 
evenings,  they  had  very  entertaining  whist  parties.     ^ 

It  was  early  in  the  morning,  after  one  of  these  parties, 
that  the  Lucy  met  with  her  hard  fete.  She  was  bound  to 
Liverpool,  and,  being  past  Skerries-light,  was  within  a 
&w  hours'  sail  of  pilot  ground,  when  the  gale  commen- 
ced ;  and,  after  weathering  it  for  three  days,  she  was  at 
last  driven  ashore  here. 

The  old  man,  who  was  weather-wise,  antidpated  the 
event.  He  rose  from  the  card-table,  and  looked  out;  and> 
on  resuming  his  seat,  observed,  '*  It  cheats  me,  if  there 
be  not  a  rat  caught  in  the  trap  before  morning :"  and  so 
there  was.  On  going  to  the  beaoh  in  the  nnomii^,  there, 
high  and  dry,  the  Lucy  lay ;  and  another  vessel,  about  a 
mile  to  the  westward*^ 

The  captain  and  supercargo,  who  were  almost  dead 

fnth  fatigue,  were  taken  to  the  house^  and  hospitably  en- 

'tertained;   and  measures  were  taken  to  secure  the  wreck. 

In  Uie  evening  there  was  a  whist  party,  and  the  .old  man, 

.'^iSeeing  the  captain  look  very  pitiful  and  dejected,  advised 

.'Jiim  to  take  a  hand  at  whist,  to  cheer  his  spirits.     The 


f.v 


'^ 


ITBiii^iii,' 


347 


ciplain  was  peipauiided;vbut  somettung  dse  than  whist  was 
uppermost  in  his  mind,  and  he  could  hardly  keep  lumself 
awake  while  he  played  two  or  three  games  veiy  badly. 
He  relinquished  the  game,  and  went  to  bed,  in  the  same 
room  where  the  landlord  slept.  The  landlord  did  not  go 
to  bed  for  some  hours  after,  when,  awakening  the  captain 
with  some  difficulty,  the  latter  started  up  with  a  halloa^ 
calling  out,  '<  What's  the  matter  ?*'  *'  O  faiths  the  mat- 
ter's no  great,  dear,"  said  the  landlord.  >*  I  only  wanted 
to  tell  you  that  you're  a  d-^  bad  hand  at  whist,  and  by 
J— 4f  you  shall  never  be  a  partner  of  mine  again,  for  I 
lost  two  ten-pennies  by  you." 

He  was  a  very  early  riser,  and  generally  came  to  my 
room  in  the  morning  to  wake  m^;  when  he  would  enter- 
ta^^tne  with  a  thousand  witty  sayings.  Sometimes  he 
would  descant  on  the  beauties  of  the  creation,  the  bright^ 
nes^tif  the  sun,  the  healthy  sea-breeze,  the  riang  plants, 
and  the  singing  of  the  birds.  At  other  times  he  would 
remark,  that  the  air  was  *'  as  thick  as  butter-milk,"  or 
dtot  he  ooukl  cut  it  with  a  knife;  on  which  occaiuons 
he  would  say^  '^  You  had  better  lie  still,  and  take  another 
alefep,dear." 

We  were  introduced  to  a  number  of  the  &mi]ies  round ; 
among  others^  to  the  doctor  of  the  place,  who  was  a  man 
of 'talents,  and  esteemed  one.  of  the  greatest  wits  in  all  the 
country.  At  a  visiting  party,  our  supercargo  and  the 
doctor  entered  into  a  punning  conversation;  but  the  sun 
percargo  was  no  match  for  the  doctor  at  this  kind  of  dis- 
course.  He  \eA  been  amusing  the  company  with  a  num- 
ber of -tales  Qonceming  the  wonderful  size  of  some  of  the 
animals  in  America ;  amongst  others,  the  well-known 
story  of  the  amazing  lar^  musquetoea  that  bit  general 


948 


TU^lfEiS  IN 


Washington  thpough  the  boots*.  A«  an  ofitet,  the  doc. 
toe  tokl  an  eqijal  number  of  taka  about  tb^  wonMul  ani. 
mflU  in  JitbmAf  meeting  the  supercaigo  in  eycfy  point, 
^jnoept  iHm  mufiquetoea.  **  WeU,"  sai4  the  ^upercargo^ 
t^umpbanlljr^  *^  you  must  ackno\^le4ge  that  oht  fie^  are 
kwEgor  than  yours.'*  ^*  Yes,  faith,'^  orie4  the  doctor,  **  I'll 
^knowledge  it  with  nil  my  hefut,  if.you-U  only  take:^way 
the/from  tliepi."  k.  .-. 

ij  Several  lin^n  mcrchauM^  were  in  tl^e  neigbbourhood, 
who  gave  me  the  history  of  the  linen  trade  jof  Ireland,  an4 
$tated  that  the  stoppage  of  the  Ameriam  tmde  was  ruining 
tlieir.  business.  One  of  them  had  recently  returned  fiipm 
Rio  Janeiro,  wfaene  he  had  been, vvith  a  eargo  of  hnena,  to 
the  vahie  of  nearly  £.  60,000  sterling,  temf^  by  the  flatr 
tering  accounts  lield  out  by  the  supporters^f  i^  ministry. 
He  returned  ^th  a  most  deplorable  tale*  He  m^  npt 
able  to  sell  ^bovf  qn^e  third,  at  a  loss  of  )30  per  cent,  mi 
he  could  only  get  a.  precarious  prpdujce  for  return,  by 
^vhich  he  anticipated  a  loss  of  fyQfa  10  to  20  per  qent. 
moie.  The  remainder  of  the  goods  h^  w^s,  pblig^.lo 
consign  into  other  hands,  and  leavie  ^  place.  His  lotn 
altogether,  he  supposed,  would  be  fully  one  half;  apd  he 
said  that  almosit  every  otl>er  sort  pf  goqds  w^  subject  to, 
« 'shwlir  depreciation*  Goods  wei9e  pouring  in  ironi  all 
qvtaBler8^ir^lA»)d$»,JLivei^  Qlnsgpw,  Mfnoheat^^  Bk. 
nwigham,  fhieffield*  ^c ;  and  so  badiy  ii^orn^ed  were  the 
peop4e.  in  iSO](n^:pkces,  that  many  artidesysent  were  ajtoge?, 
ther  unauitdble;  for,  the  marj^Let;  prion  gra$(^,Jeiidera»to^^ 
i»o»Si  warmingrpans,  and  skat^  wei^  ^^ifoitfd  tp  the 
Sra2ttls»i8ulcthj?  prince  regent  ai¥as,;9\if  ^i^jigust  9flj^,mi 


ife'- 


!  :  i:iii   :?*  f  3ee  Weld's  Travels. 


imBLAMD* 


349 


dec* 

il  ani* 
point, 
aMTgo, 
et  are 

M  ru 

rhood, 

d,an4 
iiining 

eos,  to 
heflatr 

traif  mA 

It,  mi 

It:  qent. 
M  I099 

ironi  all 
qr*  Bkr 


top 
tp  the 


thflfefoM  tiMt  country  muil  be  a  fine  market  for  rU  aoitt 
of  iimmiBsMistiire^  **  Only  look  at  the  map,"  the  ministe- 
naliola  would  exukngly  exclaim ;  **  only  lopk^at  the  mapv 
fBi4  fee  the  lunasing  extent  of  the  country  1  how  rich!  how 
Qnely  y^ten^  I  Aa^  then  the  gold  mines  that  it  abounds, 
with ;  and  the  npble  Portuguese  who  inhabit  it,  our  friends* 
apd  pur  beloved  allies.  Here's  a  field  for  our  surplus  ma*- 
nufiict\|res  to  the  latest  posterity ;  let  us  avail  ourselves  of 
it,  and  kick  thi|t  blackguard  Yankee  trade  to  the  devil!" 
H  ^nien,"  fiud  John  Bull;  and,  overlooking  the  trifling 
^iPCumstQnce,  ,|hat  it  was  inhabited  by  only  ha{fa  miiiion 
f(f  people^  and  the^  the  most  poor,  pitiful,  bigotted,  priest* 
fidden.  devils  under  the  sun,  he  did  email  himself  of  it, 
fin4  can  now  aafculate  the  value  of  the  avail! 

.  My  ^end  came  from:  Bel&st,  according  to  promise, 
and  brought  twp  or  three  cotton  spinners  along  with  him. 
They  looked  at  the  cotton,  and,  giving  their  best  advice,^ 
invked  me  to  convoy  them  as  fiir  as  Ballynahinch.  Here 
yft  were  met  by  our  agent  from  Newry,  and  spent  a  very 
happy  evening  together.  I  got  an  account  of  the  batde  of 
Ballynahinch,  and  of  the  present  state  of  Ireland,  and  neT?' 
inonung  set  out  on  my  return  to  Dundrum,  distant  n^  •' 
miles. 

There  waa  neither  horse  nor  cliaise  to  be  hired  here; 
so  I  was  obliged  to  walk.  Learning  that  there  were  some 
nedicinal  springs  by  the  way,  I  went  about  two  miles 
iMKof  the  direct  road  to  mit  them.  Before  I  had  got 
that  length,  a  veiy  severe  rain  came  on,  and  I  was  glad  to 
take  shdter  in  a  litde  wretched  cabin  beside  the  springs. 
The  old  woman  was  kind  to  an  ercess,  brought  me  a 
dram  of  whisky,  and  regretted  that  the  accommodation 
was  so  poor.    After  I  had  warmed  and  dried  myself  a 


850 


TBAVBL8  IN 


little,  she  looked  out,  and  pitmounced  liiit  it  ^ffduld  min 
all  day.  She  then  asked,  whether'  I  had  ever  heard  of 
Mr.  Fox,  and^  upon  beings  answered  in  the  affirmative,  she 
put  a  few  move  questions,  to  learn  whether  I  iqpproived  of 
Mr.  Fox*»  sentiments.  I  could  not  divine  the  meaning 
of  this,  and  was  pondering  the  subjeet  in  my  mind,  when 
a  young  boy  in  livery  called  at  the  houae,  and  told  me 
the  counaellor  sent  his  compliments,  and  requested  I  would 
call  upon  him,  as  he  ii^shed  to  see  me.  I  was  Surprised, 
and  was  going  to  ask  the  old  woman  who  the  oounadlor 
was ;  but  she  sealed  my  lips  by  teUmg  me,  just  to  isliep 
up  to  the  counsellor's,  and  'it  would  be  all  explained^  to 
me.  I  obeyed,  and  followed  the  messenger.  *'  And  who 
is  the  counsellor,  my  young  fellow?''  said  I,  as  wewalktid 
towards  the  houi^.  ^  Me  is  counsellor  Tfoherj  shr^'^  said 
the  boy.  '^  <*  What,"  said  I,  <*  the  same  that  was  private 
secretary  to  Mr.  Fox  ?"  "  Yes,"  said  the  boy.  This 
iiccounted  for  the  conduct  of  the  old  woman ;  and  I  shall 
ever  remember  her  with  gratitude  for  being  the  means  of 
introducing  me  to  the  bosom  friend  and  biographer  of 
Charles  James  Fox, 

"■'''  The  counsellor  and  I  soon  got  intimately  acquunted. 
I  answered  all  his  questions  concerning  America,  and 
he  gSLvt  me  a  great  deal  of  information  regarding  Mr, 
Fox's  private  life,  including  an  account  of  hiis  jouiliey 
to  France,  in  which.  Mr.  Trotter  accompanied  him,  and  of 
his  death,  at  whidh  he  was  present.  I  was  delighted  with 
his  conversation,  and  the  day,  as  if  determined  to  prolong 
it,  continuing  Very  stormy,  I  availed  myself  of  his  hospi- 
table offer,  and  staid  all  night.  Next  morning  eariy,  I  set 
out  for  Dundrum, 


^iRBLAmM 


351 


Dunng  my  stay  at  this  place,  I  veoeived  letters  announ* 
cing  the  airival  of  one  of  itoy  portners  from  Savannah,  and 
stating  that  I  must  hold  myself  in  readiness  to  return  to 
America.  I  was  siok  of  my  present  situation,  And  longed  to 
be  home;  ao,  inviting  my  partner  to  come  and  take  charge 
of  the  cargo,  I.  continued  shipping  it  to  Liverpool  with  all 
possible  dispatch.  My  partner  arrived  just  as  we  were 
8hi^|>ing  the  last  of  the  cargo ;  and  I  consigned  the  re- 
maining business  to  his  charge,  and  made  the  best  of  mf 
way  to  Glasgow.  He  attended  the  cargo  to  Liverpool* 
where  it  found  a  market  at  little  more  than  what  was  suf- 
ficient, to  pay  the  expences.  Had  it  arrived  safe,  it  would 
have  yielded  a  ct^ar  profit  of  £.  7000.  Such  are  some  of 
the  turns  of  fate !  There  was  not  one  penny  of  insurance 
upon  it,  nor  the  power  of  making  it.  The  first  account 
that  I  received  of  it  was  by  the  before-mentioned  lettq^ 
from  Castle  WeUan. 


I '- ,  ..'. 


ua 


TBAVBU  m 


^  1^. 


v.. 


-m^' 


,,Ul 


*  CHAPTBR  UDt. 

Return  to  Olasgaw, 

ApHIL  20th.  Having  completed  the  shipment,  I  jkirted 
lh>m  my  hospitable  entertainers  with  sentiments  of  friertdly 
regard,  and  set  out  on  my  return  to  Glasgow,  taking 
Strangford  in  my  way,  in  order  to  clear  out  the  tessels 
at  the  custom-house ;  and  I  was  accompanied  by  my 
agreeable  friend,  the  agent  at  Newry.  We  passed  tt^ugh 
Down  Patrick,  die  capital  of  Downshire,  a  pretty  large 
town,  but  not  handsome ;  though  it  is  situated  in  a  fer. 
tile  country,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade. 

On  our  arrival  at  Strangford,  the  deputy  collector  exe- 
cuted our  business  with  great  despatch,  and  very  much 
like  a  gentleman,  which  is  a  compliment  that  I  cannot  pay 
to  all  his  majesty's  servants  in  Ireland,  with  whom  I  had 
to  deal.  If  I  were  inclined  to  be  ill-natured  here,  I  could 
give  a  great  big  thrashing  to  a  certain  gentleman,  that  lives 
not  100  miles  from  the  foot  of  Mome  Mountains,  who 
thinks  '*  he  has  a  right  to  make  the  most  of  his  situation 
on  the  coast ;"  and  seems  to  be  of  opinion,  that  he  is  jus* 
tifiable  in  adopting  any  means  in  the  exercise  of  that 
right ;  but  I  am  now  in  a  hurry  to  be  at  Glasgow,  and 
shall  pass  over  his  conduct. 

We  crossed  over  to  Porto-ferry,  betwixt  which  and 
Strangford  the  tide  runs  with  a  velocity  that  I  have  never 
jet  seen  equiUled.    We  dined  at  Porto-ferrj',  after  which 


the  agei 

regard. 

From 

partly  al 

soil  in  m 

pled  froi 

comcider 

of  the  cJ 

the  mom 

looksi  be 

paasage  i 

In  the] 

tions  I  no 

of  the  coi 

Donaghad 

my  perwn 

to  travel  al 

I  was  satis 

ehauey  but 

with  as  mi 

was,  infac 

inhabitants 

rived  at  P 

very  dear, 

distance  of 

At  Port 

^vas  travelli 

pearance, 

companion. 

morning,  a 

pretty  rugg 

views,  whi< 

VOL.  r. 


ititiLimf 


1m 


the  agent  and  I  parted  ivith  many  professions  of  sincere 
regard. 

From  Porto-lfeny  to  Donaghadee  is  about  16  miles, 
partly  along  the  coast.  The  country  is  pretty,  but  the 
soil  in  many  places  is  poor.  This  district  was  mostly  peo^ 
pled  fix)m  Scotland,  and  I  could  observe  a  remarkable 
comcidence  in  dialect  between  the  people  on  both  sides 
of  the  channel.  I  reached  Donaghadee  at  10  o'clock  in 
the  morning ;  and  a  number  of  vessels,  loaded  with  bul- 
kxsksj  being  about  to  sail  for  Port  Patrick,  I  engaged  tt 
passage  in  one  of  them,  to  sail  at  2  o'clock. 

In  the  mean  time,  I  could  not  help  contrasdng  the  senia- 
tions  I  now  had  regarding  Ireland,  with  those  I  entertained 
of  the  country  before  I  saw  it.  I  noticed,  on  landing  at 
Donaghadee,  that  **  I  had  considerable  apprehensions  for 
my  personal  safety,  and  nothing  could  Imvc  induced  iiii 
to  travel  alone  at  night  in  a  post-chaise."  Now,  however^ 
I  was  satisfied  that  I  could  not  only  travel  alone  in  SLpost-  . 
ehaiiet  but  that  I  could  travel  in  any  way,  and  at  all  hours^ 
with  as  much  safety  as  I  could  in  any  part  of  Britain.  I 
was,  in  fact,  highly  pleased  both  with  the  country;  and  th||ii|^ 
inhabitants. — ^The  vessel  set  sail  in  the  afternoon,'  and  ar- 
rived  at  Port  Patrick  about  sundown.  The  evening  was: 
very  clear,  and  I  could  see  the  Mome  Mountains,  at  the 
distance  of  50  miles. 

At  Port  Patrick  I  met  with  an  Irish  gentleman,  who 
\vas  travelling  to  Glasgow,  and,  being  pleased  with  his  ap- 
pearance,  I  was  very  glad  to  have  him  for  a  travelling 
companion.  We  started  by  the  stagikat  6  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  travelled  along  the  coast,  which  we  found 
pretty  rugged,  hilly,  and  barren ;  but  abounding  in  fine 
views,  which  were  seen  to  great  advantage,  the  day  being 


m 


VOL.    T> 


2  V 


354 


TRAVELS   IK 


remarkably  clear.  At  one  place,  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  we 
could  see  the  whole  north  channel ;  the  coasts  of  Ireland 
and  Scotland ;  the  islands  of  Arran,  Bute,  apd  Ailsa ; 
and  I  could  also  distinctly  perceive  the  Mome  Moun. 
tains,  although  we  were  now  upwards  of  80  miles  distant. 
In  the  course  of  our  journey,  I  discovered  that  my  tra- 
velling companion  had  a  fine  taste  for  music,  and  being 
provided  with  an  excellent  flute,  in  his  travelling  cane,  he 
entertained  mi^  with  a  greater  number  of  Irish  tunes  than 
I  had  cyer  heard  before.  ,   ,  w 

;  When  we  drew  near  Ayr,  we  left  the  coach  and  crow- 
ed over  the  country  about  half  a  mile  to  the  old  road*  to 
see  th<p  birth-place  of  the  immortal  Bums.  It  is  a  lowly 
o^^-story  hpuse,  tl^e  one  end  slated,  the  o^her  thaitched. 
B^g  ushered  into  the  slated  end,  wlilch  had  a  deal  floor, 
we  calledfor  a  "  whisky  gill,"^  with  which  we  made  a  li- 
bation to  the  memory  of  the  departed  bard ;  aiid  hsiying 
repeated  "  Tam  o'  Shanter,"  the  scene  of  which,  "Alio. 
way  Kirk,"  is  hard  by,  w^  set  opt  for  Ayr.  At  the  end 
of  the  town,  we  passed  a  most  princely  house,  which 
might  have  been  witli  much  propriety  dedicated  to  Folly. 
I^  was  the  firuits  of  a  rapid  fortune  made  t)y  smuggling, 
which,  lik^  many,  such,  had  taken  to  itself  t^e  wings  of  the 
morning  and  departed ;  but  the  house  reniained  an  em- 
blem of  the  cupidity  and  imprudence  of  its  former  ownpr. 
^  The  stage  proceeded  no  further  than  Ayr;  but  being, 
anxious  to  reach  Glasgow,  my  fello)v-trayeller  agreed  to 
accompany  me  in  a  post-chaise,  which  having  procured, 
a|Tived  at  2  o'clock  next  morning. 


Glas£ 

Soon 

fied  witi 
the  Unit 
which  w 
iiiBritair 
Was  of  s] 
meetings 
try  were 
loss  of  th 
^eiBdytO! 
afiieetra 
of  the  ca 
Holland! 
to  trade  v 
the  laws  < 
A  cabi 
ningi  the 
part,  and 
kilte'sarn 
ed  person 
papers,  an 
re-enacted 
vfOtojible  ] 


SOOtLAKD. 


555 


ill,  wt 
reland 

AilsA; 
Moun- 
Ustant. 
J>y  tra- 
being 
anpt  he 
es  than 


■\  •  I 


I  crg^- 
:oa4>  to 
a  lowly 
latohed. 
al  floor, 
i^e  all- 


"Alio, 
the  end 
whiph 
0  Folly. 


t3  of  the 
an  em- 
o^vn^^. 
it  bemg. 
jreed  to 
rocuredy 


<« 


CHAPTER  Lm. 


•■/ 


Glasgow^ — Edinburgh,— Uverpooly — Manchester,-'^ 
*  Leeds, — JStottingham, — London. 

Soon  ^  my  .^tum  from  Ii^Umd,  I  was  highly  gn.ti: 
fied  with  the  account  of  Mr.  Erskine's  arrangement  with 
the  United  States,  and  the  removal  of  the  non-intercourse; 
which  was  followed  by  a  removal  of  the  onlers  in  council 
in  Britain.  But  the  hope  induced  by  these  circuimtances 
^m&  of  short  duration.  Two  days  had  not  elapsed,  before 
meetings  of  the  shipping  interest  were  held,  and  the  minis- 
tiy  were  assailed  with  most  deplorable  tales  concerning  the 
loss  of  their  trade.  One  set  of  them  had  the  audacity,  in- 
deed, lo  set  up  the  plea,  that  if  the  Americans  were  allowed 
a- free  trade,  it  would  deprive  the  British  shipping  interest 
of  the  carrying  trade  to  Holland.  To  Holland!  Yes,  to 
HoQdnd!  a  country  with  which  the  nation  was  at  war,  and 
to  trade  Math  which,  was  declared  to  be  high  treason  by 
thelawisof  the  land! 

A  cabitiet  council  was  held,  at  which  it  is  said  Mr.  Can* 
'liingi  the  secretary  for  foreign  aiffairs,  took  a  most  active 
part,  and  strenuously  supported  the  principle  that  Mr.  Ers- 
kine's  arrangement  should  be  ratified;  but  a  certain  elevat- 
ed personage  took  umbrage  at  some  expressions  in  the 
papers,  and  would  not  agree !  and  the  orders  in  council  were 
re-enacted  in  a  new  form,  called  a  blockade.  Thus  were  the 
vahiable  manufectures  of  the  country  sacrificed  to  the 


356 


TRAVELS   IN 


whim  of  an  individual,  and  the  mercantile  cupidity  of  a 
shipping  interest. 

The  public  will  be  able  to  form  a  pretty  correct  judg- 
ment, as  to  what  degree  of  knowledge  in  political  economy, 
was  possessed  by  the  men  to  whom  was  confided  the  ma- 
nagement of  the  affairs  of  a  great  commercial  nation,  by 
adverting  to  the  following  facts.   . 
It  was  estimated  by  Mr.  Pitt,  that  the  pro- 
fits of  the  nation  arising  from  manufac- 
.  tures  amounted  to 
From  the  merchant  shipping  and  small 

,  craft   , 
.^The  hands  employed  in  manu&ctures  were 
L,  estimated  at 

Seamen  m  the  merchant  service  at 
The  income  arising  fi-om  manufactures  de- 
%  stined  for  the  United  States 
The  hands  employed  in  manufactures  for 
ft  the  United  States 

And  I  presume  that  the  hands  employed  in 
,  the  whole  trade  with  tlie  enemies  of  the 
^.^  country,  do  not  exceedf^^^^^   .  . 

And  yet  a  fair,  honourable,  and  safe  trade,  to  a  great 
extent,  with  a  friendly  neutral,  has  been  sacrificed,  to  a 
poor,  pitiful,  limited,  dishonourable,  and  precarious  com- 
merce, subject  totlie  regulation  of  the  arch-enemy  of  the 
country.  Could  that  enemy  have  managed  the  matter 
with  more  advantage  to  his  views? 
^  I  now  calculated  that  the  American  trade  was  at  an  end, 
and  immediately  decided  to  set  out  for  that  countiy  to  in- 
quire into  the  state  of  our  property  there,  and  make  the 
best  arrangement  regarding  it,  ^t  circumstances  might 


£.  14,100,000 
;f.  1,000*000 

1,680,000 

155,000 

£*  7,000,000 
675,000 

20,000 


ENGtiAKIX. 


357 


of  a 

judg. 
lomy, 
e  ma- 
n,  by 


point  out.  Before  t^ing  my  passage  for  America,  it  wa9 
necessary  to  make  a  very  extended  tour  in  Britain ;  and 
though  it  was  so  rapid,  as  to  be  almost  barren  of  inci- 
dent or  observation,  yet  I  shall  state  the  outlines,  so  as  to 
continue  the  chain  of  connection  with  the  other  parts  of 
these  travels. 

I  set  out  from  Glasgow  on  the  1st  of  August,  1809, 
and  travelled  by  the  coach  to  Edinbuigh.  From  thence 
I  crossed  the  Forth  to  Kirkaldy,  Cupar,  and  Dundee,  and 
returrted  to  Edinburgh. 

On  the  6th,  I  kft  Edinburgh,  in  the  maSl  coach,  for 
Carlisle.  We  passed  through  Dalkeith,  Selkirk,  and  Lang- 
holm. A  great  part  of  the  journey  was  in  the  night,  and 
the  weather  was  very  ndny.  The  soil  appeared  pretty  good 
to  Dalkeith,  which  is  a  handsome  little  town,  nine  nule^ 
from  Edinburgh,  with  the  seat  of  the  duke  of  BuccleugU 
in  the  neighbourhood.  The  soil  continues  good  a  consi- 
derable way  beyond  Dalkeith,  after  which  the  country  is 
poor  and  hilly ;  but  it  answers  well  for  pasture,  and  the  peo- 
ple keep  large  flocks  of  sheep. 

I  reached  Carlisle  at  6  o'clock,  and  continued  my  jour^ 
ney  to  Liverpool,  where  I  arrived  at  3  o'clock  next  morn- 
ing. 

In  the  afternoon  I  left  Liverpool  for  Manchester,  and 
continued  my  journey  to  Halifax  and  Leeds,  and  thence 
through  a  fertile  country  eight  miles,  to  Wakefield,  a  neat 
town,  having  extensive  manufactures  of  woollens,  particu- 
larly jft/j^. 

From  Wakefield  to  Sheffield  is  24  miles,  through  a  rich, 
well-cuitivated  country;  and  at  Sheffield  are  the  greatest 
manu&ctories  of  edge-tods  in  England.  The  master-cut- 
Jers  are  here  600  in  number,  and  the  quantity  and  varietj' 


»  rt'. 


fii 


SJ^ 


TRAVELS  IN 


of  work  that  Is  produced  is  immense.  America  is  a  greatt 
alid  important  market  for  Sheffield  goods. 
'  On  the  morning  of  the  15di  of  August,  at  one  o'clock,  I 
left  Sheffield  for  Nottingham,  distant  38  niiles.  Of  tbe 
country,  I  could  see  nothing  till  I  was  near  Nottingham, 
and  there  it  is  fertile,  and  well  improved. 
f  Nottingfaiim  is  situated  on  the  steep  ascent  of  a  rock, 
overlooking  the  river  Trent,  and  a  vast  range  of  adjoining 
meadows.  It  is  a  larg^,  populous,  and  pretty  handsome 
town,  having  the  streets  well  paved,  and  a  good  market- 
place.  It  is  a  principal  seat  of  the  manufacture  of  citTtfton 
and  silk  hosier}',  and  lace;  and  sends  annually  a  vast  quan- 
tity  of  goods  to  America.  There  is  a  castle  situated  on  a 
high  part  of  the  eminence,  which  has  a  fine  efiect  when 
viewed  at  a  distance. 

I'  Here  I  took  a  passage  by  the  mail  coach  for  London; 
and  setting  out  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  passed 
through  Norman,  Melton,  Mowbray,  Oakham,  Upping- 
ham,  Rockingham,  Harborough,  Kettering,  Wellingbo- 
rough,  Harold,  Bedford,  Shelfdrd,  Hitchin,  Hatfield,  Bar- 
net,  and  Highgate,  and  reached  London,  distant  from  Not- 
tingham 124  miles,  at  5  o'clock  next  morning. 

My  business  inXiondon  was  soon  settled;  and  I  devoted 
a  day  to  see  my  friends;  but  I  was  too  much  hurried  to  go 
to  any  of  the  public  places  with  which  the  city  abounds, 
except  Vauxhall  Gardens.  This  place  is  considered  d  great 
curiosity,  and  in  all  my  former  visits  to  London,  I  had  ne- 
ver had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  it.  I  had  been  out  df  town 
dining  with  a  fnendj  and  hurried  to  the  London  coflee-hiuse 
to  go  to  the  gardens.  Ju^  as  I  arrived,  I  found  a  Scots- 
man from  Geor^a  at  his  glass  of  wine.  He  invited  me  to 
partake  of  it,  but  I  declined  it,  telling  him  that  I  was  in  a 


ENGLANOi. 


359 


hurr/  to  go  to  V^uxhall;  he  finished  his  wine  and  agreed 
to  accompany  me.  It  was  the  duke  of  York's  birth-night, 
he  told  me,  and  there  would  be  some  extra  amusements. 
As  we  travelled  towards  the  gardens,  I  perceived  that  my 
friend  had  taken  a  glass  too  much,  and  it  began  to  operate 
pretty  vehemently  to  the  prejudice  of  tlie  English  people 
I  did  not  regard  this  when  by  ourselves^  but  I  admonish- 
ed him  to  be  more  circumspect  in  his  conduct  and  expres- 
sions when  we  should  reach  the  garden;  which  he  readily 
assented  to.  ,> ., 

On  our  arrival,  I  was  delighted  with  the  vast  variety 
and  brilliancy  of  the  lamps,  and  the  immense  concourse 
of  people.  An  orchestra  was  in  the  middle,  and  we  bad 
soine  vocal  and  instrumental  music ;  but  as  I  never  admir-. 
ed  English  music,  I  pass  it  over^  In  a  short  time  my 
friend  proposed  an  adjournment  to  a  tent,  where  we  might 
have  something  to  drink.  He  called  for  a  bowl  of  arrack 
punch,  and  seeing  some  company  pass,  he  invited  two  of 
ijaem  to  take  seats  beside  us,  and  a  share  of  our  fare. 
While  we  were  thus  situated,  the  fire- works  were  an* 
nounced,  and  wishing  to  see  the  whole  economy  of  these 
gardens,  I  went  to  view  them.  They  were  splendid. 
Qn.  my  return,  I  found  my  friend  had  got  a  second  bowl 
of  arrack ;  and,  observing  two  or  three  men  in  the  high- 
land dress,  he  invited  them  to  join  us,  and  ordered  a  third 
bowl.  While  we  were  thus  engaged,  a  band  of  music, 
over  head,  struck  up  Bothemur chiefs  Ranty  and  a  ring  be- 
ing formed  among  the  spectators,  a  number  of  gentlemen 
and  i^(/i>£  danced  Scots  reels.  This  gave  my  friend,  who 
was  a  great  Scotsman^  fresh  animation,  and  he  began  to 
flouri^  away  and  draw  comparisons  between  his  countr}'- 
linen  and  th^  English,  that  I  did  not  at  all  like,  ^d  proposed 


,# 


3^  'i;BAyfiLB  jN 

that  we  should  immediately  go  home.  Having  assented  to 
thi$,  I  left  him  to  adjust  and  setde  the  bill,  while  I  went  to 
see  the  water-works.  On  my  return,  I  found  him  em« 
broiled  with  some  of  the  natives,  whom  he  was  denouncing 
as  a  set  of  taUors;  and  the,  bill  w^sjstill  unsettled.  I  in- 
stantly paid  it,  and  looked  round  for  my  friend — but  he 
was  gone.  On  making  inquiry  for  him  of.  the  bystanders, 
I  was  told  that  he  had  been  committed  to  the  watch-house ; 
and  it  was  with  great  difEculty  that  I  escaped  being  im- 
plicated as  an  accomplice.  Having,  with  considerable  ad- 
dress, cleared  myself  from  the  imputation,  I  at  ]ast')pre- 
vailed  with  some  of  his  antagonists  to  conduct  me  to  the 
ivBtch-house,  where  I  found  my  friend  eaged  upy  and  de- 
claiming against  the  English  widi  most  dreadful  vocifera- 
tion..  After  several  hours' trouble,  in  the  dead  of  night, 
widi  watchmen,,  constables^  Bow-street  runners,  &c./&c. 
I  at  last  succeeded  in  getting  him  out  oi  durance  vtV^p,  and 
we  made. the  best  of  our  way  to  the  London  coffee-house, 
which  we  reached  at  3  o'clock  in  the  morning;  and  here 
I  made  a  vow  that  I  would  never  af^  accompany  a  Soots- 
man  to  Vauxhall  gardens,  unless  I  previously  knew  that 
he  had  so  far  divested  himself  of  national  prejudice^  as  to 
pay  an  equal  respect  to  Englishmen  as  to  those  of  his  own 
country.  . 
#  ■"  ■  ,  ' '   '  ■  '     ■   ■  '  ■ 


-  t. 


# 


BltttLAllfl. 


361 


*^fm-v 


\,){>»5,'  ;> 


CHAPTER  LIV. 


,A 


Liverpool. 


,,ij.'.vf»-' 


ItLEFT  London  on  the  evening  6f  thb  18th  of  August, 
bftfae  mail  ooachy  and,  tiaveUing  all  night,  passed  tfaroiigh 
UoBbridge,  Stockton,  and  Oxford,  whore  »  die  celebrated 
Ufuveisity ;.  but  I  could  see  nothing  of  it  at  the  hoar  y^ 
posted.  We  continued  our  course  tbrough  Woodstock^ 
Shiptoil,  iUid  Stnatlbrd;  and  at  10  oPdock  on  the  19di  in 
atfnved  at  Birmihgham,  distant  frbm  London  116  miles;' 
^fitfRKiNoifAM  is  situalied m the  niddke  of  a  ficrtileand 
popuknis  cooi^,atiA  is^in  poihtof  p6pubition,the  fourth 
tarni  in  £ng^aiRi^  ite  inhabitants  amoui^Ltingi  to  73,67(X 
Fort  of  the  town  lies  low,  and  the  housea'  ave  meah  and  un- 
aghdjr^butaconsideiafok  portion,  is  elevated,  and  abounds 
with  faandsame  houses*  The  ftonlware  manu&ctures  of 
BnmiinglKMlii  are  unnvalled,  and  vast  quantities  of  good% 
oC  aiidiescfiptiora,  have  been  made  up  annually,  for  the 
Amaacan  market.  The  works:  of  Bolton  and  Watt  are  at 
Soho,  in  ^tt&^Aftighbourhood^  and  are  in  a  state  of  Qigani» 
zation  probably  superior  to  any  other  in  the  worid.  It  is 
Cilculal6i  that^  ^noe  the  introduction  of  their  improved 
Steam  en^ne,  the  labour  saved  by  it  alone,  in  Blitaih^ 
amounlBto  20  millions  steriing  annusdly.  '^( 

The  trade  of  Birmingham  is  gready  iaciiitated  by  canal 
navigation,  which  is  here  very  complete ;  affording  a  water 


VOL.   I. 


2  z 


902^ 


TISAyBLS  IN 


communicution  to  London,  Hull,  Liverpool,  and  Bristol, 
and  throughout  the  whole  interior  of  the  country.  From 
Birmingham  I  travelled  to  Shrewsbury,  in  company  with 
a  Mr.  James,  a  civil  engineer,  who  resides  in  Warwick- 
shire, and  as  the  country  througbwhio^  we  passed  abound- 
ed with  mines  of  coal,  iron,  and  beds  of  limestone,  I 
derived  a  good  deal  of  information  from  him.  He  stated 
diaf  .le  yearly  income  arising  from  the  mines,  in  the 
counties  o£  Warwick  and  Stafford,  was  incredible,  and  the 
number  of : hands  employed  in  the  boweld<af  thbiearfei 
f\na  immense*: .  The  business  was  remarkably^  well  sytitain. 
atized/he  obsJBffved,  and  was  highly  conducive  to  theipro- 
gress.of  knowledge  ^nd;  liberality  of  sentiment.  Bvemthe 
^minds  of  the  common  workmen  were  affected  by.a^vlew 
of  the  gratid  (opinuions  of  nature  in  the  faedrtof  theeprih, 
and  they  badra  degree  of  I  intelligenae^  ind  Aspirit  otf  >iiide- 
pendlstnce  qu&tejdiffbwnt (from  >tlie  svorkmen  in  the  mimu- 
faduring)  tawiDA.r  ;cl  found'  this  'gehtanan's  oompenjr  ypty 
agreeable^;  iiii  a  Joum^  together  of  46  ^liies,  wheni  we^wr- 
Jiiveidlnat  rShrewsbiicy* 


■.>M 


r^!j/S)»rix1v»Bi^R'T.is''sitaated  op  th6vi^er:iSevetn,<9nd  is  a 
jplaoei  Kif  considerable  tnide,.  but  the  stress  airiiain>lw,i  and 
kheacihibAts^  lio  very  handsbme  appeai'anGe.^;  Bei^iin  att 
:oft  thti  pdimties.  adjoimng  Wal^s,>  itjis  welliealeullited  fiv 
theiwoolfc^ltrade,  and d) con^derable' portuMiiof  its fmanil- 
fhotmes  are  calculated  fot  the  Amehoari  ii»slteti(t]artictillar^ 
pflalns  adld  flannels.  <-  i'.u,  ■,  "u  -it  ^'n^^r^p;  vtr!i-.d<'^t4rf  nnHr." 
b )  On-  Monday,  the  81^ ,  of  August^  X  l^i  Shifewsbilry 
/Itii^y^io'clock,  by  the  stage,  and  pc|sse4  ^^O^gfa  £lles>- 
mercj  and  Wrexham,  to  Chesierv  at  which  we  dinedk  Here 
|:hadMsuee  totakeArwalkiTQund  the  eity^  along  the  top 
•'9tr^».'  /:  ^n-ir'.jtli;  :  shjlqnioD  \  '  ^•j.'»if>l  rtbrci/rv  «^rta^*'f^ 
'-  -  .'•-■-■    s  -g  .    -^;    •-■' 


ttNR  V'lBHOljAlfD. 


363 


ndiga 


I?  :^J?/fc^ 


of  the  wall  with  whi6h  it  is  surrounded,  frcim  whence  there 
is  a  fine  view.    Some  of  the  chief  streets  are  singular  in 
their  construction,  being  cut  out  of  a  rock,  below  the  level  • 
of  the  ground ;  and  the  houses  have  a  portico  in  fWmts^ 
which  serves  for  a  covered  foot-path.     The  shops  and< 
warehouses  are  in  the  sides  of  the  rock,  and  on  a  leveK' 
with  the  street,  to  which  there  is  occasionallj  an  ascent  by 
stairs.    Chester  is  the  residence  of  a  number  of  people 
fioni  Wales,  with  which  country  it  carries  on  a  considera- 
ble tra^.    Its  population  amounts  to  about  15,000. 
9  From  Chester  I  continued  my  journey  12  miles^  through 
an  agreeable^  open  country^  and  passing,  the*  Mersey,  by  a 
fenry^boat,  I  arrived  in  Liverpool  at  six  o'clock  in  the 
evening.  .      ^,  hoc 

From  the  22d  of  August  to  the  3d  of  September,  I 
was  busily  employed  in  Liverpool,  makuig  preparations 
for  my  embarkation  to  America.  During  this  period  I 
had.a  little  time  for  reflection  on  the  situation  of  Engkind 
and  America ;  and  every  thing  seemed  to  portend  most 
important  consequences.  The  British  administration  ap- 
peared determined  to  adhere  to  the  new  system  of  block- 
ade;,  and  they  were  backed  by  the  whole  power  and  in* 
flpenoe  of  the  tory  party,  including  the  shipping  interest^ 
the  monied  interest,  and  all  the  placemen  and  pensioners. 
i%tl](e«ountry*  Their  opponents  of  the  whig  party,  though 
^1^  to  their  princip^s,  were  feeble  and  dispirited ;  and 
thus,  secure  in  power  and  influence,  and  having  a  very 
slender  opposition,  it  was  not  reasonably  to  be  expected  _ 
that  tbey  would  abandon  a  measure  which  formed  a  Qiost 
important  part  olf  their  system  of  policy.  On  the  other 
hand,  X  was  well  convinced  that  the  American  government 
woul^  set  upi  and  persevere  in  a  resistance  of  some  kind, 


■I  ; 


af4  ,4.^TB4y,aV9     OH  ::^ 

whii^  these  ofdon  continued.  Ffom  a  view  of  tlM  recent 
laeamres  of  that  country,  indeed,  h  was  impossible  tolbrm 
an  opinion  what  this  resistance  would  be ;  but  I  was  well 
aware,  upon  the  whole,  that  the  consequences  resulting 
firom  the  interruptions  of  conuaeroe,  would  tend  much  to 
weaken  the  connection  between  the  two  countries,  and  that 
America  would  every  day  become  more  independent  of 
Britain* 


.Hi 


.f^ 


e^'t 


^t 


^  '    f,^  4i^  ■-.-:^  •  -'    ■^•'^- 


•^ 


■       "■yd   : 


THE  inXAMTIO  IICEAM« 


s#s 


sent 
bm 

Iting 
^to 
I  that 

^  I J 

m 


|.-    Mr-- 


vjNI^i! 


■»(' 


■  •>  ^' 


,jagigg^^,,i..r<»uiiii|)imrrii  .- 


1   .  ■ 


CRAFTEIt  LT. 


tAverpooly — ^^aiii(-«  of  Newfiuhdkmdy — New  York, 

Jl  AVING  finished  my  business  in  Liverpool,  I  engaged 
a  pasaiige  for  myself  and  son  by  the  Pacific,  captain  Staun* 
ton,  for  New  York. 

The  other  passengers  were  two  merchants  of  New  York ; 
two  Yorkshire  merchants;  a  Liverpool  merchant,  who  calU 
ed  himself  9Xi  American  citizen ;  and  a  merchant  of  Savan- 
nah in  Georgia.  We  had  ^so  the  captain  and  two  mates 
of  the  ship  Manhattan,  which  had  been  sold  in  Liverpool. 

The  passengers  had  agreed  to  rendezvous  at  the  King's 
Arms  tavern  on  the  evening  before  the  vessel  sailed,  at  10 
o'ddck,  to  go  on  board  together,  as  she  was  to  weigh  an- 
chor very  early  in  the  morning.  I  had  to  step  out  of 
town  a  litde  way  to  transact  some  business  with  a  friend, 
and;  the  night  being  dark  and  wet,  it  was  a  little  pest  the 
ifipointed  hpur  before  we  got  to  the  place  of  rendezvous. 
The  company  were  gone,  and  we  had  to  trudge  through 
lavtrpool  in  quest  of  a  boat,  but  none  was  to  be  found. 
It  was  quite  dark  and  rainy ;  and  wet,  perpleted,  and  dis- 
appointed, we  were  landed  in  a  small  ale-house,  on  t>neof 
the  wharfs,  at  1  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  landlord 
livas  t  good-natured  man,  and  used  every  effixt  to  get  us 
on  board,  but  without  e£fect;  and  I  really  began  to  be  ap- 
{Hehen^ve  that  we  would  lose  our  passage.  At  tength 
aa  Irish  sailor  came  in  from  a  neighbouring  vessel  tc  get 


S66 


.ilASTBAVBLt  ON 


a  pint  of  ale,  and  the  landlord  whiapeted  to  me,  that  if  I 
spoke  him  fair^  perhaps  he  could  get  roe  on  board.  I 
thought  the  fairest  way  of  speaking  him  would  be  to  use 
his  own  style,  and  assumed  the  character  of  a  countryman 
in  distress,  which  produced  an  immediate  eflfect  on  paddy's 
feelings,  and  he  told  me  if  Morgan  would  go,  he  woukL 
He  called  Morgan,  who,  with  considerable  reluctance, 
complied.  The  next  difficulty  was  to  find  the  vessel,  for 
it  was  nearly  as  daiic  as  pitch,  and  we  had  to  go  about 
three  miles  up  the  river.  I  did  not  wish  to  talk  much,  for 
fcur  that  my  speech  **  would  bewray  me,"  and,  as  good 
luck  would  have  it,  I  did  not  need,  for. the  veiy  first  ship 
we  hailed  was  the  Pacific.  I  paid  the  Irishmen  for  their 
trouble,  and  we  went  on  board.  As  they  wei^e  starting 
from  the  vessel,  I  heard  one  say,  '*  Faith,  Pat,  I  believe 
he  is  a  Scotsman  alter  all"  **  Well,  well,  it  does  not 
signify,"  says  the  other,  **  what  he  is;  he  has  dpne  fhe 
faif  thing  by  us,  any  how," 


"  Tpt,f '  S9i4  I,  *<  are  we  not  all  relations  ?" 


•■^T    f' 


,'l- •)«''■■  •t'"''^- 


Sterne. 


'■rt-  '.>] 


'  %■  ■■ 

^On  the  morning  of  the  Sd  of  September,  the  ship  got 
under  weigh,  at  S  o'clock,  and  ^  wind  being  fiur,  we 
were  round  the  rock  by  5 ;  and  at  6,  discharged  the  pilots 
The  breeze  continued  from  the  north-east,  and  we  had  a' 
line  run.  At  7  o'clock,  we  were  up.with  the  point  of  Ayr; 
at  10,  at  Great  Ormshead ;  at  12  we  passed  Skerries-light^^ 
and  shaped  our  course  to  the  south-west,  through  St* 
Qeorge's  channel.  A  vast  number  of  ships  came  out  of 
the  river  along  with  us,  but  we  had  lost  sight  of  themiall, 
except  the  John  Bull,  a  fine  English  ship;  she  kept  iny 


sight  oi 

Pacific  I 

We  I 

.«  aeries 

which  ti 

The  wii 

till  the  ] 

it  contin 

almost  ii 

well  by  t 

d4th,  wi 

land.    H 

before  ot 

had  a  fin 

wil,aQdi 
I9ite^  ci 

Theimpi 
hertbroui 
idialiMio^ 
hlpwiiig; 

whei!e][J)e< 
accompani 

nin«»iByt 
,&>u]hU^. 

which,  the 
SQWnd^b 

*e  scfuth; 
fprmei;  pas: 
^se  banks 


t<u  n*  I  f^oboRite. 


THE  ATLAMTIO  OCEAN. 


Uet 


sight  of  ut  oil  the  way  out  of  the  channel,  although  the 
Pacific  conaidcnibty  outsailed  her. 

We  passed  Cape  Clear  on  the  5th,  i^MtT  which  we  had 
,a  series  of  w6st  afid  nortli  west  whids,  till  the  15th,  by 
which  time  we  wero  nearly  up  wkh  the  Western  Islands. 
The  wind  then  shifted  to  the  south-west,  and  continued 
till  the  19th,  when  it  again,  shifted  >tt%  the  north-west,  arid 
it  continued  to  cAo^  roimtf  fh>m  south-west  to  north-west, 
almost  inoeasantly ;  <but  as  the  Paciftct  sailed  remarkably 
well  by  the*  wind,  wt  made  toleraUe  pixigres8,;and  by  the 
S4th,  we  were  nearly  up  with  the  Bonics  of.  Newfound- 
land. Here  a  phenomenon  happened,  which  I  had  never 
before  observed  at  sea.  At  3  o'okuckt  in  theiafiiernoon,  we 
had  a  fine  steady  breeze,  to  whiqh/ |ve  were  carrying  all 
sail,  and  the  ship  was  running  through  the  water  at  the 
ilfite  of  eight  npoles  an  hour ;  wheif,  ^11  of  a  sudden,  »he 
ran  out.qf  tk^,  tren^,  and  was  hfoalmed  in  an  instant. 
The  impulse  continued  ibr  some  little  time,  and  carried 
her  through  the  water  probably  about  half  a  mile ;  at  which 
i4ista|K!^  rwe  could  perceive  that  the  breeze  we  had  left  was 
blQwillg  as  strong  as  ev^r.  It  is  said  that  ships  are  sometimes 
,^l^iated  in  thi^  wi^y  on^some  par^  of  the  coast  of  Afiica, 
whe^elhe  cahns  are  fi«q\ient  and  oflofig  duration ;  and  often 
accompanied  by  treme^idpu^  stornisr,  of  rounder  and  light- 
ning^ ;  fiy  the  ^5^  we  appeared  to  be  Q^)i^  Banks  of  New- 
finrndl^*  ^  The  weather;  was  foggy,  and  the  thermometer, 
which*  the  day  ^fore,  had  been  at  7g^  fell  to  $6%  We 
soilind^  but  fow4  no  bottom ;  in^ee^,  we  were  nearly  at 
tiie  squjthr  pointy  where  the  water  is  v^ry  deep^  On  my 
former  passage,  I  made  som,e  remarks  on  the  formation  of] 
these  banks,  wl^i^ph  my  pr^nt  observations  tended  to  cor^ 
r^^?9«^?ft  .  I  .W  Jwwd  a  .great  AqsX,  pf  the  fisheries  on 


■vit 


^2M8 


'^^  tRAI^Btt  OK  SKt 


them ;  but,  nbturhhstanding  I  had  crossed  them  tvirioe^  I 
never  saw  any  thing  of  the  fishing  vesoels,  nor  did  ive  take 
any  fish. 

V  This  great  bank  is  about  330  miles  in  length,  firom 
south  to  norths  and  about  75  in  breadth,  from  east  to  west. 
The  depth  of  wMer  oil  it,  is  from  15  to  60  fiithoms«  The 
fishefy  commences  abont  the  10th  of  May,  and  continues 
tiH  the  end  of  September.  The  cod  is  cured  in  two 
ways;  one  bj  drying  tliem,  the  other  by  putting  them 
up  in  pickte.  The  fisheries  are  computed  to  yield  up- 
v^uds  of /.  300,000  sterling,  annually,  for  the  supply  of 
the  catholic  countries  alone;  and  such  is  the  immaise  sup- 
ply offish^  that,  notifrathstanding  the  annual'  dnd^,  there  b 
ho  sen^ble  diminution.     «'    ii  -^j^.a^ii  ..Uirzj.c^ira^.  ^ 

^'^After  leaving  the  bfii^s,  ive  had  a  seti^  oimiStmA 
iHSrth-west  winds,  n^hicb  %nt  us  beyond  th^Gulph  Stream, 
and  as  far  to  the  southward  as  the  latitude^  of  37^  30, 
m^here^  we  found  the  weaither  very  warm^  the  dhemiometer 
'i4sihgtO-78P'and  SO^'-"*^^'  ^-"^■•1...-.-:-  r-^-..-  b,!i  -imi-'-iLr^:^ 

V  The  weather  was  clear  and  fine,  and  the  moon  being  in 
ft  fiivoiirao^^  pdsition,  we  had  luiiar  observations  dnj  di^- 
rent  mornings.  The  result  we  fouhdto  be  very'^sorrect, 
a  proof  of  the  great  importance  of  ^  atplieation  ^  astro- 
nomy to  one  of  the  most  useful  arts. 

""^  The  wind  shifted  back  agtun  to  the  southward^  and  we 
bore  away  to  the  north-west,  untU  the  6th  of  October, 
when«  we  took  a  fair  wind,  which  carried  us  to  the  Jersey 
shore  on  the  8th,  40  miles  south  of  the  lig^t-house^  We 
had  a  southerly  ivind,  and  were  running  to  the  northward, 
and  would  soon  have  mad^  Sandy  Hook,  but  night  came 
on,  and  we  were  deceived  by  a  light,  which  we  mistook 
for  the  lighthouse ;  in  consequence  of  which»  we  lay  to  for 


thenigli 

soon  dc 

house; 

received 

news,  ai 

again  en 

govemm 

for  not  e 

however, 

i^ence  of 

papers,  w 

in  everym 

kine;  am 

openly  a\ 

vemment, 

Mr.  Jefiei 

terpart,  1 

The  pa 

captain  St 

Ihaveev< 

a  mate  ai 

vessel  wai 

wasremar 

all  the  wa^ 

Having 

with  a  ligl 

Narrows,  : 

we  were  v 

York  Gaz< 

(shipping  ti 

well  of  the 

very^-espec 

VOL.  I. 


• 


THE   AtLAKTlG   OCEAN. 


369 


the  night.  Next  morning,  at  di^.brcak,  we  set  sail,  and 
soon  descried  the  high  lands,  and  afterwards  the  light- 
house ;  and  between  2  and  3  o'clock  in  the  aftcnK)on  we 
received  a  pilot.  We  flocked  round  the  pilot  to  learn  the 
news,  and  were  ii^9rmed,  that  the  non-intercourse-  was 
again  enforced  by  proclamation ;  and  that  the  American 
government  were  very  much  dissatisfied  with  the  British 
for  not  executing  Mr.  Erskine's  treaty.  On  this  subject^ 
however,  I  soon  found  that  there  was  a  considerable  diffe* 
i*ence  of  opinion;  indeed,  some  of  the  American  news- 
papers, which  we  perused,  justified  the  British  government 
in  every  step,  condemning  diat  of  America  and  Mr.  Ers- 
kine;  and  one  of  our  company,  an  American  citieen  too, 
openly  avowed  that  he  could  have  no  confidence  in  a  go- 
vernment, unless  there  was  a  king  at  the  head  of  It ;  even 
Mr.  Jefferson,  he  believed,  would  have  acted  a  much  bet- 
ter part,  had  he  been  king  of  America.  a   ...  k.%« 

The  passengers  were,  upon  the  whole,  agreeable,  and 
captain  Staunton  was  one  of  the  most  obliging  shipmasters 
I  have  ever  been  at  sea  with.  He  was  well  provided  in 
a>  mate  and  good  sailors,  and  every  thing  on  board  the 
vessel  was  conducted  with  great  propriety.  The  cabin 
was  remarkably  well  furnished,  and  we  fared  sumptuously 
(dl  the  way.  .,^*»*ff^^^,  *,.... ^,  .^^vt,—  ,-#f 

Having  crossed  the  bar,  we  proceeded  up  the  cliannel 
widi  a  light  but  fair  breeze,  and  at  5  o'clock  passed  the 
Narrows,  and  stood  in  for  the  quarantine  ground.  Here 
we  were  visited  by  Lang  and  Turner,  editors  of  the  New 
York  Gazette,  who,  by  their  indefatigable  attention  to  the 
shipping  trade  of  tlie  port  of  New  York,  have  deserved 
well  of  their  countr}',  and  have  been  amply  rewarded  by  a 
very^respectable  patronage  and  support  to  their  paper. 

VOL.  I.  3  a 


t  I 


370 


TSJiVELS   IN 


'  Connected  with  this  establishment  is  that  of  the  Mer- 
cantile  Advertiser,  the  editors  of  which  pay  one  half  of  the 
expence  of  procuring  the  shipping  intelligence,  and,  of 
course,  receive  the  same  information  as  the  Gazette ;  and 
so  attentive  are  the  parties  to  the  business,  that  Mr.  Lang 
has  a  house  at  the  quarantine  ground,  where  he  resides 
with  his  family  during  the  summer,  and  speaks  every  ves- 
sel that  comes  into  port.  By  this  means  the  shipping  intel- 
ligence  in  these  two  papers  is  early  and  authentic,  and  they 
are  the  most  respectable  mercantile  registers  in  New  York. 
:':  We  were  only  a  few  minutes  here  when  the  health  offi- 
cer came  on  board,  who,  finding  all  well,  gave  us  a  bill  of 
health,  and  we  set  sail  up  the  bay,  and  landed  at  th^  wharf 
at  8  o'clock.  I  immediately  waited  upon  my  friends, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Stewart,  from  yfhom  I  had,  as  before,  a 
friendly  welcome.  - 


?:*4l^li::.*)! 


f' 


PENXSTLTANtA. 


371 


CHAPTER  LVL 


AVw  KorA:, — Philadelphiaf — Savannah, 

I  CONTINUED  in  New  York  until  the  11th  of  No- 
vember, when,  having  some  business  to  attend  to  in  Phi- 
ladelphia, I  set  out  for  that  city  by  the  mail  stage.  We 
left  New  York  at  1  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  next 
morning,  at  5  o'clock,  we  reached  Philadelphia,  distant  97 
miles. 

My  business  here  was  in  friendly  hands,  and  I  got  i6 
arranged  to  my  satisfaction  in  a  short  time,  when  I  had 
a  few  days  to  spend  with  my  friends.  At  the  house 
where  I  lodged,  a  gentleman  sometimes  called  to  spend 
the  evenings.  .  My  friend  and  he  were  two  of  the  most 
extensive  and  respectable  merchants  in  Philadelphia,  and^ 
like  myself,  both  were  concerned  in  the  British  trade*  ^ 
We  agreed  in  opinion  as  to  the  utility  of  this  trade,  butt 
we  differed  regarding  the  cause  of  its  interruption.  I  at- 
tributed it  to  what  I  considered  the  true  cause,  which  will 
be  readily  inferred  from  the  foregoing  pages;  but  my 
friends  were  inclined  to  attribute  it  to  the  hostility  of  the 
democratic  party  in  America  to  foreign  commerce.  Con- 
sidering this  idea  incorrect,  I  opposed  it,  which  led  to  a 
pretty  long  discussion,  in  which  I  had  occasion  to  state 
the  view  I  took  of  foreign  commerce  generally,  and  the 
importance  of  the  relations  between  America  and  Britain. 
My  friends  j^ssentcd  to  the  correctness  of  my  opinion,  but 


■m 


•  *• 


0: 


372 


TRAVELS   III 


insisted  that  it  was  so  opposite  to  that  of  the  democratic 
party,  that,  were  I  to  draw  it  up,  and  send  it  to  a  demo- 
cratic newspaper,  it  would  not  be  inserted.  Considering 
this  a  very  good  plan  to  bring  the  matter  to  the  test,  I 
drew  up  an  essay,  which  received  their  approbation.  If 
was  sent  to  the  Aurora^  and  two  days  thereafter,  made  its 
appearance  in  that  paper*.  i*wi 

i  While  I  staid  at  Philadelphia,  the  negociations  with  the 
British  miniBter,  Mr.  Jackson,  were  broken  off,  and  it 
dearly  appeared  to  me,  that  nothing  but  the  ascendancy 
of  the  whig  party  in  Britain  would  prevent  a  war ;  but 
from  the  intelligence  which  I  received  from  Britain,  public 
and  private,  I  thought  it  extremely  probable  that  this  as- 
cendancy would  soon  take  place ;  at  any  rate,  I  considered 
it  would  inevitably  follow  the  appointment  of  the-princc 
of  Wales  as  regent,  and  that  event  ^vas  daily  expected. 
I  was  guided  by  thb  view  in  my  commercial  arrange- 
ments, and  took  my  measures  accordingly. 
't:  From  Philadelphia  I  returned  to  New  York,  and  from 
^thence  went  by  sea  to  Savannah,  where  I  arrived  on  the 
17th  of  December,  without  meeting  any  adventure  wortli 
^recording. 

On  my  arrival  in  Savannah,  I  found  matters  in  a  dread* 
ful  state.  The  stock  of  goods  was  disassorted,  and  would 
not  bring  half  the  original  value ;  and  the  other  funds, 
consisting  chiefly  of  outstanding  debts,  if  ever  they  would 
be  collected  at  all,  it  could  only  be  done  at  a  labour,  ex- 
pence,  and  loss  of  time,  that  would  probably  be  greater 
than  the  ultimate  value  of  them.  A  great  many  of  them 
were  ui  suit,  and  the  courts  of  kiw  were  suspended,  so 


*  S9e  Appendix)  No.  IV. 


#^ 


GEORGIA. 


373 


Kiratic 
demo- 
dering 
test,  1 
m.  It 
ade  its 


that  the  recovery  by  that  process  was  very  tedious  and 
uncertain.  Our  debtors  amounted  to  the  amazing  num- 
ber of  185,  and  they  were  so  scattered  over  the  land,  that 
they  occupied  a  space  of  nearly  200  miles  square.  Some 
landed  property  belonged  to  the  concern,  and  some  ne« 
groes  (a  species  of  commodity  which  I  never  wished  to 
deal  in),  and  these  had  fallen  in  value.  We  had  also  a 
store,  220  miles  in  the  interior  of  the  country;  but  it  held 
out  no  better,  prospect :  while  our  American  debts  were 
large  and  urgent,  a  great  portion  of  them  custom-house 
bonds.  I  was  absolutely  sickened  when  I  looked  into 
the  books,  where  I  had  nothing  to  contemplate  but  the 
wrecks  of  a  ruined  estate,  and  the  fragments  of  it  scattered 
to  and  fro  Uiroughout  the  land ;  so  that  no  time  could  be 
fixed  for  >  its  being  eventually  wound  up.  However,  there 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  arm  myself  with  resolution,  and, 
after  three  months  most  ardent  application,  I  got  it  reduced 
to  some  sort  of  order,  and,  having  made  a  new  arrange- 
ment with  my  partner  to  carry  on  a  commission  business, 
while  the  old  concern  was  winding  up,  I  set  out  on  a  £o/- 
lecting  toury  taking  in  my  way  the  store  up  the  country. 
A  few  of  the  observations  which  I  made  on  my  journey 
shaU  be  commumcated  in  the  next  chapter.  4 


'mm- 


"'3:- £  M'.,*:,,- ::."■";.:'- V-5S-'    .'"?'-   "Sti 'H^^V  JS'    ■^■<«¥f  ' 


r: 


374 


TRAVELS   IN 


n 


It     in  -^"^  . 


-m  (.V'-'-*^     -r^— 


■■4-«fei%- 


:^. 


CHAPTER  LVII.        ^^s»^ 


4j  •  / 

Savannah^ — Lomsvilley—Grcensburg^ — Augusta, 

On  the  2d  of  April  I  left  Savannah,  on  horseback,  at  5 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  A  young  gentleman  in  a  chair 
accompanied  me,  and  we  took  the  road  to  Louisville.  The 
weather  was  Avarm  and  sultry.  We  travelled  18  miles 
through  a  low  marshy  country,  abounding  in  thick  woods, 
but  having  a  thin  population,  to  PoweWs,  and  here  we 
stopped  for  the  night.  About  11  o'clock,  there  was  a 
tlvmder-gust  to  the  south-east ;  the  wmd  shifted  to  the 
north-west,  and  the  weather  became  suddenly  cold. 
^  April  3d,  we  travelled  through  a  wretched  looking 
country  12  miles,  to  breakfast ;  and  12  miles  further  to 
dinner,  part  of  the  way  through  pine  barrens.  The  coun- 
try was  now  a  little  more  elevated,  but  the  soil  poor  and 
sandy,  and  so  continued  20  miles,  to  Jones\  where  wc 
stopped  for  the  night.  Jones  has  a  thriving  plantation^ 
and  a  fine  peach  orchiird. 

•  April  4th,  we  travelled  through  a  country  nearly  similar 
to  that  we  passed  yesterday,  14  miles,  when,  entering 
Burke  county,  we  met  with  more  improvements,  and  saw 
many  fine  peach  orchards;  and  the  trees  being  in  blospom, 
formed  a  very,  agreeable  contrast  to  the  barren  ^vastes 
around  liiem.  At  6  o'clock  in  the  evenmg,  we  reached 
Louisville,  100  miles  ft-om  Savannah.  I  found  the  seat 
of  government  had  been  removed  to  Milledgeville ;   but 


1.  . 


^ 


itie#fi 


*■,•■¥  ■ 


GEORGIA. '  t 


375 


my  friend  Dr.  Powell  still  remained  at  this  place;  and  I 
passed  a  very  agreeable  evening  with  his  family.  The 
doctpr  was  not  at  home,  and  I  regretted  much  that  I  had 
not  an  opportunity  of  thanking  him  for  his  kindness  and 
attention  when  I  was  here  before. 

April  5.  At  half  past  8  o'clock  we  set  out  for  Sparta. 
A  mile  from  Louisville,  we  passed  a  considerable  stream 
called  Rocky  Comfort,  where  there  are  a  number  of  mills ; 
and  this  being  the  boundary  between  the  high  and  low 
country,  the  scenery  now  becomes  more  variegated.  Five 
miles  beyond  this  the  road  forks;  we  took  the  right-hand 
road,  but  it  was  the  wrong  one,  and  led  us  six  miles  out  of 
our  way,  through  a  barren  country.  The  country  im- 
proves towards  the  Ogeeche  river,  which  we  crossed  at 
the  Shoals,  and  here  there  are  several  important  mill^.- 
The  banks  of  the  river  are  steep  and  rocky,  and  the  soil 
in  the  neighbourhood  is  pretty  fertile,  producing  wheats 
com,  &c.  After  crossing  the  river,  we  passed  over  vast 
masses  of  rock,  and,  travelling  14  miles,  we  reached  Sparta, 
towards  which  the  soil  improves,  and  there  is  a  pretty  fer- . 
tile  country  round  it.  '  i 

Sparta  is  a  small  town,  but  until  of  late  it  had  a  ver3r> 
flourishing  commerce,  and  a  great  deal  of  mercantile  busi-  - 
ness  was  transacted  in  it.  It  has  npw,  in  consequence  of 
the  stoppage  of  foreign  commerce,  suffered  most  severely. 
Many  of  the  merchants,  and  country  people,  cannot  pay 
their  debts;  and  the  winding  up  of  the  business,  through 
the  medium  of  the  courts  of  law,  has  produced  eflects  dis- 
tressing tf.)  contemplate.  I  was  informed  that  there  was 
now  no  demand  for  British  goods  at  all ;  and  all  the  people 
were  clothing  themselves  in  homespun. 


?.%':;  cT 


"■     tj^'  i  *-y.''*"''^'*^  *-    k/^r^Tf     *'  >' *.-    ,;     ■  ■  y*-i^  r*v  r^.-^? 


376 


TBAVBL8   IN 


w  At  SpQita  I  parted  with  my  young  friend,  wha  feturned 
to  Savannah,  and  I  went  further  up  the  country  to  Greens- 
burg.  Meeting  with  a  countr3anan  who  kept  a  tavern 
about  half-way,  I  availed  myself  of  his  company,  and  lodg- 
ed at  his  house  during  the  night  My  fellow-traveller, 
who  was  very  communicative,  told  me  that  the  country 
in  this  district  was  healthy,  and  the  lands  generally  good. 
The  price  of  land  uncleared,  ivas  irom  two  to  five  dollars 
per  acre.  On  reaching  the  house,  I  found  lus  family  all 
busily  employed  in  manufacturing,  and  they  showed  me  a 
number  of  the  articles,  which  were  very  good,  some  of 
them  handsome.  They  told  me,  that,  besides  supplying 
the  family,  they  made  a  considerable  quantity  of  goods 
for  sale.  ^         -.  .i;.  .!*^u-;r.U'-j-..i^J4  '-i- 

"-  April  7.  The  morning  being  beautiful,  I  started  at 
daylight,  and  travelled  through  a  very  pleasant  country^  13 
miles,  to  Greensburg.  The  soil  is  good,  and  abounds 
with  a  ^species  of  timber,  called  dogwood,  which  bears  a 
white  flower,  and  being  now  in  full  blossom,  the  woods 
formed  a  most  beautiful  appearance.  The  north-west 
wind,  which  commenced  on  the  2d,  continued  un^  now, 
and  the  weather  was  healthy  and  delightful.    ^^  "^ 

Greensburg  is  a  handsome  town,  containing  about  200 
inhabitants,  and  is  improving ;  but  the  mercantile  business 
is  in  a  veiy  dull  state.  The  country  is  handsome  round  it, 
and  the  situation  is  elevated  and  healthy. 

At  12  o'clock,  noon,  I  set  out  for  Mount  Fertwrtf 
in  the  new  purchase,  where  our  country-stCMfe  t<^  si- 
tuMed,  22  miles  fh)m  Greensburg.  Eight  miles  from 
Greensburg,  through  a  pretty  good,  but  thinly-settled  coun- 
try, is  the  Oconee  river,  and  three  miles  beyond  this,  through 
a  country  nearly  siinilar,  is  the  Appalachy.    These  two 


GBOBGIA. 


377 


riven  are  very  fine  steeams,  and  I  passed  both  by  boots. 
From  the  Appalachy  to  Mount  Vemon,^  I  travelled  11 
milea  in  the  new  purchase,  and  i  was  really  surprised  to 
observe  the  number  of  settlements  that  had  been  made  in 
the  short  space  of  four  years.  The  greater  part  of  the  lots 
were  disposed  of,  and  I  was  hardly  ever  out  of  sight  of  a 
plantation.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  agreeably  uneven, 
abounding  in  springs  and  small  rivulets,  and,  firom  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  people,  1  have  no  doubt  but  the  country  is 
very  healthy* 

II  spent  several  days  in  this  place,  on  one  of  which  I 
went  to  Madison,  the  county-town,  six  miles  from  Mount 
Vernon.  This  was  laid  out  only  a  year  before,  yet  it  is 
now  a  thriving  place,  having  a  court-house,  a  number  of 
dwelling-houses,  three  taverns,  and  as  many  stores. 

On  the  15th  of  April,  I  left  this  district,  on  my  return 
to  Greensburg.  On  my  arrival  there,  I  found  the  inhabit 
tants  in  a  state  of  alarm.  Advice  had  just  been  received, 
that  a  letter  had  been  found  in  the  state  of  Virginia,  dated 
from  Greensburg,  stating  that  all  was  ready  in  Georgia, 
and  recommending  prompt  measures  to  be  pursued  in 
executing  the  work  in  Virginia.  It  was  presumed  that 
the  work  alluded  to  was  the  assassination  of  the  white  peo- 
ple. The  iakurm  being  given,  it  had  spread  through  the 
country  in  itll  directions;  and  the  people  had  adopted  mea- ' 
sures  of  preicaution.  At  this  place  the  guards  paraded  the 
streets  all  night  i4a 

On  the  16th^  at  12  o'clock,  I  left  Greensburg  for  Au-t 
gusta,  accon^)anied  by  a  doctor  of  medicine^  a  very  intel-  % 
ligent  gentleman,  who  lived  16  miles  below  Greensburg. 
While  mte  travelled  togeth^  we  had  a  good  deal  of  con- 
vsrsation  f«gardifig  the  present  alarm  in  the  coimtry,  con- 


voi.  !• 


3  b 


378 


TRAVELS  IM 


cemmg  which  we  made  inquiry  at  all  the  settlementB  we 
paased,  and  of  all  the  people  we  saw.  We  foundthat  some 
of  them  were  a  good  deal  alarmed ;  others  considered  that 
there  was  no  danger ;  and  some  ridiculed  the  whole  as  an 
iidle  tale.  But  they  all  thought  there  was  a  propriety  in 
taking  measures  of  precaution.  .•i^v«()^ri>tAi>u. 

^^  I  was  satisfied^  upon  the  whole,  that  the  alarm  was 
greater  than  the  danger;  and  that  there  never  can  be  a  sue 
cessful  organization  of  the  black  people  against  the  whites, 
upon  a  large  scale,  in  Georgia;  nor  indeed  in  any  part  of 
the  United  States.  A  shcHt  glance  at  the  subject  may  be 
liseful,  because  I  found  that  it  was  generally  supposed  in 
Britain,  that  the  southern  states  wbuld  be  eventuaBy  de- 
stroyed in  this  way.  -t'-^v  *vr;  »rtUt  ^'*-i'i-f  '^^^a  ■''t'Uih^  HHfjun 
t»^  By  the  census  of  1800, 1  find  that  all  the  slaves  north 
of  the  state  of  Delaware,  amount  to  only  35,516 ;  being 
such  a  small  proportion  to  the  white  inhabitants,  that  tiiey 
Can  have  no  influence ;  and  as  a  gradual  sboMtion  is  going 
t%n,  the  proportion  is  diminishing  every  year^^  ?:•  '-  vj^* 
t  In  those  states  where  slavery- exists  in  full  force^  the 
relative  numbers,  in  1800,  stood  as  in  the  following  table. 


Free  Persons,  Slaves^ 

Delaware     Wi^i    58,130«iJi'S*-^f*«  i6,143 
Maryland  .  i^f^  241,985  107,707 

Virginia  »?; ^v«f  '534,396  345^796  - 

Kentucky  180,602     ^.     40^343 

N.  Garolina^HKI  334,807  M<«ir  133^296 
S.  Carolina^    '199,340 


.•?,:?«> 


jsgws-v; 


^.■ 


Geoi^> 
Tennessee 


102,989 
•   92,018 

1,744,267 


146^151  . 
59,699 
13,584 

I       i.M'i;  ''I      ' 

852,699   jbv 


Fron 

berthe 

that  eve 

gfeater 

thatiallj 

strengiA 

and  thoa 

the  negr 

say  attei 

stnictioti 

heading! 

at  an. 

•But,  in 
the  count 
imr<oonsic 
armed  m4 
withanx 
on  the  pa 
without  a 
the  pokwei 
writing;  I 
part  wouU 
every  adv 
^  It  has 
plan  to  as 
whole  in^c 
of  this  ki 
detection; 
slaves  ini 
notice.   .1 
in  the  Uni 
slaves  attac 


6E0BG1A.. ;; 


37^ 


From  this  table  it  appears,  that  the  free  people  outnum- 
ber the  slaves  above  two  to  one,  and  we  cannot  suppose 
thst  ever  the  proportion  on  the  side  of  the  slaves  will  be 
greater  than  it  is  now,  more  especially  wlien  we  consider 
that  Jail  importation  has  ceased.  Hence  the  mere  physical 
str^gth  is  above  two  to  one  on  the  side  of  the  white  people^ 
and  those  who  possess  any  degree  of  intelligence  among 
the  negroes,  are  fully  a^are  of  this,  and  must  know  that 
gny  attempt  at  insurrecdon  would  end  in  their  own  de<% 
stniction;'  ,;  It  is  only  by  men  of  intelligence  among  them, 
heading  an  insurrection,  that  they  could  have  any  chance 

iBut,  in  the  next  pkce,  the  fwhoh  artificial  strength  of 
the  country  is  in  the  hands  of  the  white  people;  and  when 
i«v< consider  that  a. single  despot) lat  the  head  of  a  band  of 
armed  men^  comparatively  few,  can  rule  a  whole  country,^ 
with  a  rod^  iron^  we  can  calculate  what  eflK^t  an  attempt 
on  the  part  Isf  one  third  of  «  oatbn,  in  a  state  of  slavery, 
without  antt%  without  ammunition,  without  education,  or  > 
the  poivver  of :  holding  conversation  with  one  another  by 
writing ;  wei  oaui  calculate  what  e£fect  an  attempt  on  their 
part  would  have  t6  destroy  the  other  two  thirds,  who  have 
every  advantage  that  the  others  want.  m:^'^ 

^\t  has  been  supposed  that  the  slaves  could  organize  a 
plan  to  assassinate  the  white  people,  and  to  perform  the 
whole  intone  night.  .  The? thing  is  impossible.  No  plan 
of  this  kind  can  be  oi^anized,'  on  a  large  scale,  without 
detection;  and  the  power  to  organize  such  a  plan,  by  the 
slaves  ini  these  states,  is  so  limited,  as  hardly  to  merit 
notice.  Besides  all  this,  there  is  probably  hardly  a  family 
in  the  United  States,  where  there  is  not  one  or  more  of  tlie 
slaves  attached  to  th£m>  from  some  peiional  consideration. 


~.:-h^'uK  riHiiX  J)trH 


■.ua  \X 


380 


TRAVSLB  IN 


The  women,  in  particular,  are  a  great  many  of  them  em- 
ployed in  the  capacity  of  domestic  lervanta,  and  some  of 
them  are  as  much  the  confidence  of  their  mistresses  as 
ladies'  maids  are  in  £ngiand )  others  have  nursed  the  ohil- 
dren;  and  the  whole  have  less  or  more  associated  with  the 
white  children  when  young.  These  are  all  so  many  ties 
of  afiection,  which  but  a  small  majority  among  the  negroes, 
I  believe,  would  be  willing  to  break,  m  order  to  organize 
rebeMion ;  and  it  will  be  perceived  that  a  single  discovery^ 
by  one  slave,  leads  to  the  detection  of  a  'whcic  plot 
>  But,  indeed,  it  appears  to  me  that  the  blacksrare  in  ge- 
neral a  good-natured,  well-disposed,  peaceable  people,  and 
nothing  but  ill  usage  so  extreme  as  to  drive  them  to  a  state 
of  desperation,  could  ever  bring  about  any  general  plan  for 
the  assassination  of  the  white  people.  .  There  may  be  per- 
tipular  local  circumstances  of  revolt ;  but  none  is  ever  to 
be  apprehended  of  a  nature  sufficient  to  endanfpor  the  safety 
of  the  southern  states,  or  any  one  individual  state. 
'*'  Having  travelled  3Q  niiles,  through  a  pretty  pleasant 
country,  I  arrived  in  the  evening  at  Washington^'  which  is 
a  pleasant  little  town,  containing  about  IQOi  houses;  and 
the  fields  in  its  neighbourhood  are  in  a  iiigh' state  of  culti> 
vation.  ■•.'.-  •  i      :'■.-■<.•  ,.  m;  •   ,  j,;-      •   >• 

^  April  17th.  I  left  Washington  at  day-light,  and  at  tci. 
reached  Ray's  mills,  a  handsome  settlement  on  a  considera- 
ble stream  of  water.  Having  some  litde  business  to  transact 
het«,  I  stopped  all  day.  The  people  in  the  house  where  I 
lodged  had  a  very  extensive  manufactory  of  homespun ; 
and  they  were  all  sulxpmtially  clad  in  cotton  dOth,  of  their 
own  manufacture,  some  of  it  elegant.  /?}  .   a  rr 

4>  On  die  18th  I  travelled  16  miles,  through  a  pretty  good 
country,  to  Columbia  Court-House,  a  small  place,  hand- 
somely situated,  22  miles  west  from  Augusta. 


MpdioioiAsi^'* 


381 


On  the  19th,  I  travelled  through  a.country  nearly  similar 
to  that  I  pasaed  <hn  lugh  the  day  befcve ;  towards  Augusta 
the  soil  is  good,  and  the  country  improves  in  appearance, 
being:  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  I  reached  Augusta 
at  12  o'clock,  and  being  a  place  1  always  admired,  I  stopt 
here  some  days.  i 

One  of  my  first  calls  was  on  my  old  friend  the  Major, 
with  whom  1  travelled  from  New  York  to  Boston,  four 
years  befiMne;  «id  we  spent  a  few  hours  together,  in  which 
we  recounted  ourtadventures  on  Long  Island  sound.  The 
gentleman  wich.whomllodged  having  a  taste  for  natural 
philosophy,  chemistry,  and  mechanica,  I  had  always  a  rich 
intellectual  fi»st  on  my  return  to  my  lodgpngs. 

I  left  Augusta  on  the  26th  for  Richmond  springs,  where 
I  saw  my  old  friend  the  poet  and  lua*  sable  mistress,  with 
whom  I  lodged  two  days,  and  then  passed  over  to 
Waynesborough,  where  being  hospitably  entertained  a  few 
days  by  some  very  respectable  planters  in  that  neighbour- 
hood, I  set  out  for  Savannah  on  the  3d  of  May,  in 
company  with  two  very  agreeable  friends,  and  arrived  on 
the  5th  at  noon.. 

During  this  journey  to  the  upper  country,  I  made  every 
inqiiiry  that  I  could  regarding  the  state  of  its  commercial 
concerns,  and  I  was  satisfied  that  it  had  undergone  a  great 
revolution  since  I  was  in  the.  country  before.  The  staple 
commodity  of  the  state  is  cotton,  and  it  had  so  fallen  in 
value,  as  to  cut  ofi"  upwards  of  one  third  of  the  income  of 
the  country.  It  followed  that  the  inhabitants  must  curtail 
their  expenditure  in  proportion.  *i^ccordingly  found  that 
all  the  people  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  were  clothed 
in  homespun.  '  In  almost  every  &mily  a  cotton  manufac- 
tory was  to  be  seen,  and  in  some  instances  they  had  in- 


r^ 


9 


382 


TSAVBLS  JN :  >t 


troduced  spinning,  upon  a  pretty  large  scale,  byjemiies. 
At  a  parade  of  the  militia,  at  Augusta^  I  \i^as  toldf  that 
out  of  500  men,  only  two  were  to  be  found  who  had  a 
single  article  of  British  manuiactures  about  them.  It  had 
become  feshionable-etery  where  to  wear  homespun,  and 
from  the  very  substantial  stuff  the  people  were  making,  and 
the  agreeable  emi^oyment  it  afforded  to  the  young  woQien 
of  the  country,  I  was  convinced  that  this  trade  would  en- 
crease  probably  >  to  nearly  the  total  exoluaion^  of « British 
g^di^s.ihxn  the  state*  This  was  fer  £rom  being  ftittecing 
tome;  and  the  commissron  businessv:  in  whieh iwe ihad 
embarked,  was  milich  affected  by  the  low  price  of  ,oot<iQiii, 
and  the  general  dulll  state,  of '  trade.  Having.thcreforo  vtxy 
litde/to  do^  I  confided  the  business  to  (the  management  of 
iky  partner,  and  set  out  for  the  northern  states,  by  way  of 
Gha^lestori^'>';Mff•'!»#f1>f^/di)|?j^'^1*l¥vl!^^v^tf^^^^n'^^^^^^  .  ^ 


ChaHi 

On 

captair 

inglye 

river,  \ 

fore  da 

Charic! 

landed 

Here 

forturia 

the  cil^ 

terition 

a  £sw  d 

v*J!>uri 

our  wa 

repfiirs 

sumed 

defence. 

and  is  o 

tirely  fri 

and  con 

OnS 

captaiin 

vessei,  1 

was,  on 


.*' 


SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


383 


miSes. 
I,  that 
I  had  a 
It  had 
in,  and 
ig,and 
lyomen 
lid  en- 
British 
atteising 
we  ihad 

3i»v€fy 

mcDtof 

way  of 


>u>«ftv      CHAPTER  LVni. 

Ch^Hestdny-^N&vt)  York, — Philadelphia, — Staten  Island, 

On  the  9th  of  June  I  left  Savannah,  with  rtiy  old  friend, 
captain  Cooper,  in  the  Delight.  The  weather  was  exceed- 
ingly sultry,  and  we  had  a  light  southerly  breeze  down  the 
river,  but  we  were  favoured  by  the  tide,  and  got  to  sea  he- 
fore  dark,  when  a  fine  breeze  sprung  up,  and  we  reached 
Chaiieston  light-house  by  day-light  At  8  o'clock,  .we 
landed' in  the  city.  ■      ■  .;*^"^'**  ••;  ni^:?^  •^i^i:    •  4-^ 

Here  I  was  invited  to  lodge  with  a  firiend,  which  was  a 
fortunate  circumstance,  for  I  had  been  but  a  short  time  in 
the  city  when  I  was  seized  with  a  fever ;  but,  by  timely  at- 
ter.ition  and  good  nursing,  I  got  clear  of  it  in  the  course  of 
a  fisw  days. 

louring  my  stay  here,  I  went  to  see  Sullivan's  Island.  In 
our  way  we  passed  the  fortifications,  where  considerable 
repfiirs  and  alterations  had  taken  place;  and  it  was  pre- 
sumed the  harbour  was  now  in  a  very  respectable  state  of 
defence.  Sullivan's  Island  is  an  excellent  summer  retreat, 
and  IS  open  on  all  sides  to  the  sea  breeze,  so  that  it  is  en- 
tirel}'  finee  from  every  vestige  of  marsh  or  putrid  effluvia, 
and  consequendy  fix)m  all  epidemical  sickness. 

On  Sunday,  the  I7th  June,  I  went  on  boaitl  the  Eliza, 
captain  Leslie,  for  New  York.  This  waG  a  very  handsome 
vessel^  remarkably  well  found  in  every  respect,  and  she 
was,  on  this  occasion,  crowded  with  passengers,  having  no 


3U 


«    TBAVEL9  IN 


less  than  24.  On  crossing  the  bar,  we  put  to  sea  with  a 
north-east  windv  which  sent  us  a  considerable  way  to  the 
south  of  our  course;  and  after  being  beat  about  with  head 
winds  for  several  days,  we  took  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south- 
east, which  nearly  put  us-  ashore  on,  Cape  Look-out  shoals. 
The  gale  subsided,  but  we  had  still  head  winds  until  the 
26th,  when,  near  Cape  Hatteras,  we  took  a  fair  wind,  which 
carried  us  into  New  York  on  the  30th. 
.^/Nothing  material  occurred  in  this  city  until  th^  4th  of 
July,  when  the  anniversary  of  indepeikdence  was  cdebraled 
with  great  splendor,  and  was  equally  attended  ta  by  both 
the  political  parties.  The  federal  procession  consisted 
principally  of  the  Washington  and  Hamilton  Societies^,  in 
number  700  or  800 ;  that  of  the  republicans' waft  composed 
of  the  Tammany  Society,  Manhattan  Society,  andthe  diffe* 
rent  trades^  sobieties  in  the  city.  The  processions  Mere 
conducted'  feq^ectlvely  to  different  churches,  where,  ^after 
|)ra3%F^!the  deolaration  of  indq)endence  waisread,  /and^flii 
oration  delivered ;  acoonlpanicd  with  sevdnd  pieces  of  ap- 
propriate vocal  and  instrumental  music.  ^  ■  >  - 
r  r  ^  outward' display  'of  great  festivity  <  was^ exhibited  all 
ov«r  the^cky,  by  firing  guns,  ringing  -bells^-  wi^^  mtlittty 
and  other  ^pTocessionB!;  and  the  evening  was  spent  i^en^t 
rally  in  a  social  manner,  by  different  saciede9<  and  private 
circles.  In  every  party,  they  had  a  regubir  s^ries>  of  ilT 
toasts,  one  for  each  stalte,  and  a  number  6f  v^oluiMxttr  toasts 
from  the  company.  These  toasts  were  veiy  isentimental^ 
and  may  be  cc^sidcred  as  a  very  good  batometeribr  dis» 
covering  the  particular  political  opitiions  df  th^^pGortyt  ) 
^f  Having  no  particular  btisinese  in  the  cify,  Ifiiv«iit1ioiive 
a  few  weeks  on  Long  Island^  ^Mch  is  a  ddigktful  mxttif- 
iher  residence.    During  this  time,  I  toc^a  jauiit  as>fk'as 


Jamaic 
New  1 
ricHi  , 
and  801 
respect 
,  New  Y 
educate 
country 
ofhUls, 
couiitigj! 
spent  ^, 

whole,  ci 
trees,  an 

bnd,  wl 


j^^herid 
nentcoiu 
viouatQ 
tm  forn 

lantine  g 

sonta  01 

York  rfxfs 

Meim 

critic*),;;^ 
banmoe/o 
d^^iii4 
duoed  an 

VOL.  I 


'•»•• 


NEW  TOBK. 


385 


ath  a 

to  the 

head 

K)Uth- 

hools. 
til  the 
whidi 

4th  of 
ibrated 
y  both 
tisisted 

njposed 

ya  Mcrt 
ne,  after 

sofap^ 

>•■;•■'    ' 

itcdali 
mtlitary 

ptivate 

rr  toasts 
imcntal; 
lor  dis^ 

tyt'  )'•■- 
to  live 
Vsumv- 


Jamaica,  a  prettf  little  village,  12  miles  to  the  eastward  of 
New  YoriE,  and  l^  the  finest  road  I  had  yet  seen  iw  Ame- 
rica*   The-. settlements  by  die  way  are  yar^^^'handsoi^, 
and  seme  of  «the  buildings  are  elegant.    A  mimber  of  veiy 
respectable  inhabitants,  some  of  whom  are  inerchantsvof 
New  York,  reside  in  Jamaica ;  and  it'  has  a  seminary  for 
education,  esteemed  one  of  the  best  in  the  state.    The 
country  round  is  very  pleasant,  and  to  the  nordi  is  a  ridge 
of  hUls,  fi:om  whence  there  is  a  very  fine  view  of  the  adjacent 
oouiiti^,\.9nd  a  ponsidemble  distance  out  atfto^ '  Having 
spent  #;^  at  thb  place,  I  retimied  in  Ihe  evemng  by 
Newtown,  9  pleasant  litde  village,!  near  East  riyer^  In  the 
wholecif^uit^Ifowid  the  sides  of  the. road  dad.  with.  fruiU^ 
tiees,  and  the  crops  of  fruit  very  abundantk        \  t  -r      v# 
V,  #K)iit'this  time  I  fell  in  with  a  gientleman  fi^om  Sco|«> 
land,  who  was  in  expectation  of  a  considerable  quantity 
of^pmis  i»  t^e  ;fiiU^  and  we  agrieed  to  trsnosact  busim^  to- 
jf^theri  during  thst  season,  wi|h  a  view  ;Qf  >fi  >  moiie  perm%  _ 
nent  com]«xio%  if^^  trade  co|i^^  open.   Hayi^,  pre^ 
viousto  this,  determine  to  leios^n  in  AiQcriqa^Ih^ 
ten  for  my  t&mily, !  arid,  expect  them >  (early  in  the  ^41 ; 
^^^  jbiNOVdfr  toreoeive  them,  J[<^k  lo^^ings  at.the  qua- 
nmliiie  gPQund, on  $taten  Island^  and  Jbfiving  stationed  my 
son  ia  our  -p/sn^  lodgii^s,  I  accompai^ed  tnro  of  my  New 
Yorii  frjiends  to  Fbil^d^lpliia.,  r> 

We^vveUed  by  t|ie  pail  st^ge,  and  were  determined  to 
be/inmyi   One  iatouria|ef«J»q»,  being  flfiij^ 
9ii|de9ome.yeiyiin^(P«ted4Ms^rt»tio^^  and 

critic4 ;  butiin  the  course<>f,oni^  oC  the^e,  a  eert^  protu- 
btnuiQe  (OR  his  fiipe»./ca]|ef^f  j^  ^os^,  happenf^  to  eomesud- 
d^9^  »iCDii|^t  with  his  neigMMiur*^  ^Ib^      whioh  pKOr^ 
duoed  ail  TiMlfun^t  sp ,  sqli^,  that  ^;tput  v^  i^to  h)s 


-#^ 


VOL.  I. 


3  c 


'U 


i  ,)' 


386 


■■* 


TftA¥i&L8  IN 


iqxmtifigifit,  and  made  hkn  rqient  the  vbknce  of  his  ges- 
tiiie&  in  f'^t^s  €f  bioodi**  Thi»  gave  our  amuaentents  a 
VHfff  tiwiiyMdkVocal  music  succeeded.  We  had  ainumber 
of  excellent  s|pigs,  to  the  great  entertainment  of  a  3roung 
i£ngli8hman,  of  oi^r  company,  who,  at  the  dose  of  efich, 
:iwould.:exclaim,  sh:%tt4ir£ii;  ,.,ir  <■  ^:  . 

.^  .  «  Xy^t^  good  apng,  and  very  well  sun^^,  ,f^,y 

^  ^®*'''y  companions  every  one." 

^''^Our  Engllljhman,  who  was  a  yh^«^  impt^tatiM  frcm 
Maiic^ster,  entertained  us  with  a  long  condequential  i!9tory 
^bout  the  great  demand  for  Henglish  mamtfaictui^  itt  ^ewt't*. 
-**  Thedm<?  trdde/'  says  he,  "  is  so  brisk^  th^  Aottf  iwdSp 
"^jlor^  not  kable  to  bring  the  goods  so  fast  forward  Aof  thigy 
hxsre  i^/tetled,  hand^we  don't  care  a  fig  for  th^'^m^mm 

ir>  Intiiecourscof  our  jourticy,  we  encountered  a  SEta^lbH 
df  people,  some  oi  whoiti,  vft  were  informed;  had  been  it 

%  iiamp  meeting ; -toid  it  p^teaeher  froin  New^  YoriCj  inrho 
had  some  niHie  before  htsen  interdicted  by  die^'corpohrtion 
&om  disturbing  the  peace  of  that  ci^  hf\Ah^cisieiitficitks, 
«rt:  in  the  front  c^  the  cahiage*    A  gobd  litany  ^ttici§ms 

^^iviere  passed  on  this  etoimstahCej  al^  ^On  die  nature  of 

^iean^  mtetingii  and  the  fecility  with  which  ddbf  pbstOvM 
be  transacted  at  them,  by  certsdn  mtimbiers  of  ^e^omtnu- 
yty ;  which  oocJalsic^ied  k  go6d  d^d^  6t  Ittdghter  in  our 

'^sfe^:  This  tjalkd  th^  prfeichltii'ititd^ctidn.  -  *'  Theiie^^i^ 
he  myiaughtd-  in  lifeH^*»  sayisf  he*'  *«^         tifc  d^^  do  you 

1cti6W  diat  ?'*  said  tme  of  the  cmnpany^  **  Wer6  y6a  cvfei- 
thiere  ?  You  foHoWs  seem  to  n&k«  a»  fite  with  'W^  dieter 
af«*  eeonbniy  ofM  iSodiy  B^hteis^sdoittMyih^  BIS  if^you 
were  pscrthcr^  in  *  ibk  c<>ncern ;  artd  truly,  from  the  ri^ 


PEKNSTIiYAiriA. 


987 


iisges- 
lents  a 
lumber 
young 


■  rtfv- 

Hi  ftt^ 
ial  Story 

mt  onds 

• 

itntncttti 

tsigefttH 
been  it 
%  who 
potation 

tftCttt&Sf 

t^iMns 
iture  of 
i^'tould 
*omintt' 
Jn^our 
ere  will 
do'yoti 
6ucvfcr 
ft  oroer 
if^you 
he  ti^ 


whioh  are  carried  Oil  *  at  your  camp  meetings.  aUd  o^\M 
places,  iktwould  appear  that  you  are  conoeoted  in  jtnvk 
with  the  old  boy,  if  not  directly  as  paitnor^ral  Iea8l|.a9 
agents."  He  was  proceeding  to  ask  what  commission 
diey  had  fbrmanaghig  such  bua&ness,  when  the  stage  drov^e 
on j  and  we  left  the  ^*  eccentric  preacher''  muttering  som^-^ 
tlung  to  himself  which  we  did  not  distuictly  htsar.  Y.i>lr>^^Mi 
,  Before  we  arrived  at  Princeton,  our  law}^erwaA  so  over- 
come  by  exertion,  that  he  fell  asleep  in  the  carriage;  and 
so  iiist  had>  Morpheus  locked^up  his  facultie#that>we  could 
not  rousev^hkn  to  silpper ;  and  icven  after 'supper  he  com 
dnued  hiflt^nap  in  the  carriage.  But  in  one  of  hisinodding 
fitSxhe  had  pitched  his  hat,  '*a  special  new  one,'V<(wtff 
ffoardix  and  when  he  awoke  near.  Tnenton,  he  made  this 
Iinown  tpv  the  company,  with  lamentatbns  at  his  bard  &te« 
There  is  »  certain  roguishness  in  mankind,  Which  impels 
ttftrn  tp  lau^  at  their  neighbours*  misfortunes,  wheiLthey 
nm  of '  a  trivial  natukie,  and-  attended'  by  ludicrousitcircumr 
stances;  W^  answered  our  friend's  observMions  by  a  loud 
laugh ;  in  which  none  joined  moifi  heartily  than  the  gentle^ 
man  whose  ^elbow  had  unfortun&tely  given  him  the  bloodj 
nose.  But  lieindiilged  his  mii^h  Without  adverting  to  the 
stateof  hb  own  pericranium;  .putting  up  his  hand,  he^  felt 
it  was  bucv  and  exclaimed,  vthat  he  had  lost  his  hat  toa 
This  gavCfthe-  company  a  fresh  cause  for  i  indulging  their 
mirdi,  wtd^madc'the  lawyer  in  part  reconciled  to  his  loss. 
On  our  arrival  at  Philadelphia,  the  two  gentlemen  manched 
aWayvtzy  >iovingly  together^  to  purchase  new  hats,  so  vi^ifit 
was  loBB  to  them.  Was/  gain  to  the  hat-makers.  ^*  It's  an  iH 
wind  that  blows  fiobody  good."  v.;> 

><  Having  remained  a  few  days  in  Phifaulelphia,  I  xetumed 
by  the  steam^lxMili  and;a8,  \  j^  no  ))usmess  to.tiansact  m 


su 


TMMmSiM  in 


M«w  York  till  the  M  goods  would  arrive^  I  landed  aft 
Staten  Island^  which  I  found  to  be  a  moat  agreeable:  flaoe 
Qi  the  aammeik  season.  The  quaiantine  gvotteid  is  hand^i 
somely  situated,  on  the  east  side  of  the  island^ion  a  'small 
hav^  about  a  miie>  4ind  a  half  above<  the  nanoiri.  %  The 
land  here- ritea  boldty  firom  the  shore,  and  is\|ierfisd% 
healthy.* 'A  considerable*  piece 4)f  ground  is  cadloSed^ifor 
Ae  hetdth  offioes ;  and  ^the  health  officer,  and  his  assistant, 
i«side  within  the  enclosure;  i<  Contiguous  to  itm  officer  of 
ihe'  customs  "besides;  and  in  the  neighbourhood  are  a 
number  of  respectable  &milies.  Mr.  Lang,  fonnerly  men- 
tioned, ^dlus  femily  reside  here  in  the  summer  season; 
There  was,  upon  the  whole,  a  very  social^  circle  at  this 
place,  cmbdlished  l^  a  number  of  handsome  young  ladies, 
and  we  had  many  ^^reeable  parties.  Our  sociefy^as  often 
augmented  by. visiters  from  New  York,  and  strangers  ar- 
rivingAtthe  quarantine  ground;  sothatthe variei^ of  senli« 
ment  among  us,  r^gious  and>  political^  was  iniproportion 
to  dur  number&i  but  it  never  interfered  widi^ur  social 
hiiiimmy^  >  Heligion  ahdipolitics  aie  two  of  the  most, im« 
itortan^  conceit  of  mankind;-— the  one  embracing  tliia 
interests  now,  the  other'  hereafter;  and  m  proportion  vas 
pKfpk  leel  a livelyinlere^in  both,  they  will  become  the 
tqncs  of  conversation.  '^  Out  of  the  abundance  of  the 
heart  the  mouth  speaketh.'?  But  they  are  subjects  whkh 
admit  of  a  great  .variety  of  sentiment^  and  onwiducK  man- 
kind  will  never:  diink  alike»  Hence  it  is  of  importance 
ito  diey  be  discussed  leppecately,  j|p;4;ipth  defeoence  to 
the  fedings  of  each  other,^  One  ofy^  most  important 
circumstances  in  discuss|iig  thc^,  is  to  avxnd  |iQ  personal 
abuser  mb^  espedaUy  qf.  public  diaracters.  Jbapo|^<»]ar 
gQvermnent,  no  roan  can  be  appointed  Jo  a  pobtic  station^ 


mm  TOBB.' 


989 


led  at 

smaUi 
{{The 

liataht, 
fcccrof 

|r  men- 
seasoni 
al  diis 


as  often 
gersar- 
ifaenti* 


sooiid 
hn« 
ig  tlib 
tioiivas 
iBie  the 
of  the 
whkh 
man- 


witlMiit  kivingthe  ¥oioc  of  a  majoritf  in  hia  ikvofir,  real 
or  UBpliacL^  To^  call  liim  names,  therefore,  and  to  load 
hinvWidi^aU  manner  of  reproaches,  ii  just  to  abusejat 
aeooad  hand^  those  who  have  appointed  him,  of  whom 
your  political  antagonist  way  be  one.  It  is  often  sa  viewed,' 
and  anger  and  strife  ensue;  and  thus,  a  discussion  that, 
fmpsaeiy  mani^ed,  m^ht  be  conducive  to  promote  know- 
ledge and  ^nfarmation,  becomes  often  the  means  of  raising 
the  wUttlwind  of  fipssii^  and  of  de$troymg  the  peace  of 


r-'i  '''^  \;  ■■.-^'    ■  .  ■".,  ■■        ,    :{  '.  .■■•  ■    ■    ■ 


:. ',.  I  » 


i*. 


f       ! 


■'4 


■■Jt. 


w 


'f<^  ><«:/>/*> 


;.  r 


,  .J — ~ 


39Q 


Iff*'- 


■■*  ■  w^ 


TRAVBfcS  IN 

CHAPTER  MX. 


'    MMiiftiMniM) 


JVhrt;  Torkf — Comnierciat  vieUfs. 


The  expected  gobds  arrived  early  in  the  fall^  atid  in 
greater  quanuty  than  w'as  at  first  calculated  on,  and  there 
was  a  very  good  fell  trade,  so  that  I  was  pretty  busily  em- 
ployed in  New  York,  till  the  month  of  November,  M^hen  I 
was  delighted  by  the  safe  arrival  of  my  &mily.  I  was  now 
most  anxious  to  settle  in  New  York,  in  a  mercantile!  capa* 
city,  and  there  seemed  to  be  a  consiHerabkr  probability  ^t 
I  would  be  able  to  accomplish  that  object.  The  nc^oci- 
ations  between  America  and  Britain  were  continued,  and 
had  been  so  long  protracted,  that  I  was  inclined  to 'think 
all  interruptions  would  be  d6ne  a^vily.  Inde^  the  Ame- 
rican government  had  placed  her  foreign  relations  on  a 
footing  by  which  the  Engli^  ministry  conld  get  an  ascen- 
dancy over  France  on  terms  so  easy,  th&t,  shflkdn  a§  my 
confidence  in  them  was,  i  could  not  imagine  but  that  they 
would  embrace  :t  America  had  qiened  her  trade  to  bcth 
hlUgerentSy  accompahied  by  a  declaration,  that  on  anyone 
of  them  withdrawing  their  unjust  edicts,  so  fiir  as  they  in- 
terfered with  her  neutrality,  she  would  immediately  enforce 
the  non-intercourse  act  agsdnst  the  other.  Both  parties  had 
expressed  the  utmost  good- will  to^trards  Ameriea,  and  as- 
serted that  their  edicts  were  only  meant  to  annoy  thfe  trade 
of  each  other;  alleging  that  America  could  not  reasonably 
complain  that  it  acrrfi/!mfa%  interfered  with  her  trade,  as  she 


Mm 
Amcfj 
than  b 
1  resisi 
time; 
erifice 

anyoni 

«d,as  1 

eagerly 

tunity  c 

nation,^ 

t)f  putti 

the  who 

fvts  noi 

unqihed 

Champa 

that  the 

demtea 

tease  to 

being  ni 

Hiefing] 

AeiruiA 

adewhic 

cd  States 

tommunu 

the  Engl 

Thisn 

ttatkinoi 
liai^ingiita 

iHitmfor 
commeri^ 


ihd  Iti 
i  there 

ily  em- 
when  I 
i^now 


NEW  TOUK.  391 

hid  hoi  wt  up  the  proper  resisUnce.  It  wsilmpmble  that 
America  could  aet  up  a  resistance  to  both^  in  any  other  way 
than  by  withdrawing  from  the  ocean  altogether,  which  was 
1  resistance  that  might  be  made,  and  had  been  made  for  a 
thne;  but  it  could  not  b^  endured  for  ever.  It  was  a  sa- 
crifice without  an  object;  she  could  in  that  case  have  m 
itkide.  She  therefore  came  to  the  resolution  of  resistuig 
any  one  of  them,  on  getting  the  fineedom  of  the  seas  rCttor- 
ed,as  fiur  as  it^  had  been  obstnicted  by  the  other.  How 
eagerly  then  would  a  wise  ministry  have  seized  this  oppor- 
tunity  of  cultivating  the  friendship  of  a  great  and  growing 
nation,'  whose  trade  is  of  such  importance  to  Britain ;  and 
of  putting  their  deadly  enemy  in  the  wrong  in  the  fiice  of 
the  whol^  world !  But  the  sincerity  of  the  British  ministiy 
wta  now  brought  to  the  test,  and  Bonaparte,  as  usual,  tri- 
Biiqihed  over  them  and  the  nation.  The  French  minister, 
Chaitipagnyy  intihiated  to  the  American  minister  at  Ihiris, 
that  dK  decrees  were  withdrawn,  in  these  terms:  '*Tfap 
derates  of  Berlin  and  Milan  are  revoked,  and  they  will 
ccflse  Id  l)e  in  force  from  the  1st  of  November  next,  k 
being  understood  that,  in  consequence  of  this  declaratioh, 
the  EngNah  shattj  as  they  have  declared  they  would,  revoke 
#ieir  ocdert  in  council,  and  renounce  the  principles  of  block- 
ade  which  tfiey  have  attempted  to  establish,  or  that  the  Umt- 
ed  States^  <ro^/^n7Mi6/^  to  the  act  (^  emgress  you  have  jutt 
eomtminieatedy  ^kiH  cause  -their  rights  to  be  respected  by 
the  English."  i  . 

This  Was  officially  tinnounced  by  the  president's  procku 
lAatkin  <^  the  9d  of  November;  and,  no  corresponding  act 
having  itaken  plads  in  England,  the  non-intercourse  act  was- 
piit  m  force  agsdnst  that  country;  and  thus  agiiin  were  my 
commerce  arrangements  defeated.         m^% ,^  < ^:i^  ^s  ni 


i^ 


TBAYELS  n 


'>•,. 

'x** 


W 


-  In  themeah  time  I  had  kept  up  an  intercoune  with  my 
partner  ifi  Savannah,  and  from  a  aupposition  that  aome  bu- 
siress  might  be  done  between  that  port  and  New  York,  we 
tried  the  experiment  by  a  small  shipment  Irom  each ;  but 
they  were  both  unsuccessful,  and  I  was  satisfied  that  while 
•the  redtrietiona  were  continued,  no  beneficial  trade  could 
be  carried  on,  at  least  by  us,  between  these  two  portsw  In- 
deed I  was  tired  of  the  Savannah  trade  altogether,  and  anx- 
iously  wished  for  ah  opportunity  to  get  entirely  clear  of  it 

But  matters  did  not  yet  appear  entirely  hopeleaa  unth 
England.  The  president  stated  in  his  message  to  congress, 
that,  '*  Tb  a  communication  firom  oiir  minisler  at  London 
iof  the  tevocation  of  the  Berlin  and  Milan  decree^  tt  was 
answered,  that  the  British  system  woM  be  relipquUhed  as 
soon  as  the  repeal  of  the  French  decrees  shtmklhaveaeHmlhf 
taken  effect^  and  the  commerce  of  neutral  nations  havfj  been 
restored  to  the  condition  in  which  it  stood  prevkmsly  to  the 
promulgation  of  those  decrees*  This  pledge,  althoMli^  it 
does  nfl^  necess^y  import,  does  hot  exclude  the  intention 
0f  rdinqui^lmig  along  with  the  orders  in  coiuicil,  the  prac- 
tice of  those  hovel  blockades^  whidi  have  a  liheelfect  of 
interrupting  our  foitign  commerce.  And  thisrCbfther  jus- 
tice to  the  United  States  is  the  rather  to. he  hekedfir^  in- 
asmuch' as  the  blockade  in  question,  being  not  move  con- 
trary to  the  established  law  of  nations,  than  inconsistent 
in^th  the  rules  of  tradc; recognised  by  GreatBritain  herself, 
could  have  tto  legal  basis,  other  than  the  plea^f^f^taMatioB 
alleged  as  the  basis  6f  the  orders  in  c6unciL'^%;'^t^M 

It  was  stated  in  a  subsequent  part  of  the  iRessage^  indeed, 
that,  '*  On  the  other  important  Subjects  depemfoigibetween 
the  tJhieed  States  and  that  gotvemment,  >,no  progiess  has 
been  made  from  which  an  early  and  satu^act0fi  result 


^^y 


could  i 

babilitj 

try  woi 

tern  wl 

the  ^u 

millioni 

i^gem< 

Fc^s,  in 

In  fo 

naturally 

factuv^s 

thejapic 

few  year 

Bytb 

in  party  i 

carried  o 

tp,the  su 

.  .*  Wo 

>i^uhhoa\ 

Spei 

/v«v.Fiax 

'U  w^Befi] 

,  Coai 

Snu 

"Thef 

thegreate 

Iron, 

Cotb 

Hats 


Spin 

VOL.   I 


NEW   YORK. 


393 


could  be  relied  on:^*  yet  I  considered  there  was  still  a  pro- 
bability of  the  trade  being  opened.    I  thought  the  minis- 
try  would  not  siuely  be  so  mad,  as  to  persevere  in  a  sys- 
tem which  went  to  preclude  the  valuable  manufactures  o( 
tlic  eountry  from  a  market  to  the  extent  of  ten  or  twelve 
millions  sterling  annually ;  and  I  went  on  making  my  ar- 
i^gements  to  act  as  an  agent  for  some  British  manufactu- 
rc|rs,  in  which  I  had  a  prospect  of  excellent  connexions.  <■,_ 
;  In  following  up  my  plan  relative  to  this  branch,  I  was 
naturally  led  to  inquire  into  the  state  of  the  internal  manu- 
factures of>,the  country,  and  I  was  astonished  to  observe 
the  japid  progress  which  they  had  made  in  the  course  of  a 
few  years,  and  the  great  extent  to  which  they  had  risen.  ^,^ 
By  the  secretary  of  the  treasury's  report,  which  was  only 
in  party  it  appeared,  that  *' the  following  manufactures  are 
carried  on  to  an  extend  which  maybe  considered  adequate 
tjp^lhe  supply  of  the,  United  States. 
*  Wooden  articles  of  every  kind. 
Leather,  and  articles  of  leather. 
...    Soap,  and  tallow  candles. 
.  Spermaceti  oil  and  candles.  . 
,    Flaxseed  oil.  .  * 

Refinedsugar.  . 
,  Coarse  earthen  ware.     . 

Snuff,  chocolate,  hsur-powder,  and  mustard. 
<<  The  following  branches  are  firmly  established,  supplying 
the  greater  part  o£  the  consumption  of  the  United  States. 
Iron,  and  articles  of  iron. 
Cotton,  wool,  flax,  and  hemp. 
Hats  and  straw  bonnets. . 
Piqper>  printing  types,  printed  books,  playing  cards. 
I  Spirituous  ai]id  malt  liquors. 

VOL,  I.  3  p 


m 


'f!vc-h:/r:s^*t'~'i 


304 


TKAVEU   Uf 


t 


Wax  candles. 
*^  Progress  has  been  aiade  in  the  foUowmg  bnoicheti. 

Paints  and  coburs. 

Chemical  preparations,  and  medicind  drugs; 

Salt.  ,.,^ 

Copper  and  brass. 

Jiqpannod  and  plated  ware. 
,l       Queen's  and  other  earthen  ware. 
.  ^,  <Ha8s  ware,  &c.  &c. 

*'  Many  other  articles,  on  which  no  information  has  been 
received,  are  undoubtedly  omitted." 
%■  The  report  goes  on  to  state  the  outlines  of  the  infi^rma- 
4ion  received  4mi  the  reflective  bram^s,  aU  of  wlitch  is 
exceedingly  important;  but  I  shall  only  make  a  few  ex- 
tracts, relative  to  some  of  the  nibat  prominent  articles. 


"  Cottony  Waoly  and  Flax. 

<*  The  first  cotton  millmuB  erected  in  the  state  of  Rhodt 
Island,  in  the  year  1791,  another  in  the  same  state,  in  the 
year  1795 ;  and  two  more  in  the  state  of  Massaohuietts,  in 
the  years  1803  and  1804.  During  the  ifaree  auccoeding 
years,  ten  more  were  erected  in  Rhode  island,  and  'Vne  in 
Connecticut,  making  altogether  15  tniUs,  erected  Jbefore 
the  year  1808,  working  at  that  time  about  €000  :spindles, 
and  producing  about  300,0001bs.  of  yam  a  year. 

<*  Returns  have  been  received  of  87  nriUs,  wkich  iveee 
erected  at  the  end  of  the  year  1809;  ^  of  which  (48 
water  and  14  horse  mills)  were  in  operatm,  fand  worked 
at  that  time  31,000  spindles.  The  ^aim^S  will  'beQll  in 
operation  in  the  course  of  Jflhisy«ar,^utd'4)ogedierw|t^  the 
former  ones  (all  of  which  <re  wreafting  <heir  iilichiiiery)» 


HBW  TOIK. 


S^ 


will,  by  the  estimate  received,  work  more  than  $0,000  tpin*. 
dies  at  the  commencement  of  the  year  1811. 

^*  The  capital  required  to  carry  on  the  manufacture  on 
the  best  terms  is  estimated  at  the  rate  of  100  dollars  per 
spindle ;  but  it  is  believed,  that  no  more  than  at  the  rate  of 
60  dollars  b  generally  employed.     Each  spindle  produces 
annually  about  36  pounds  of  3ram  from  45  lbs.  of  cotton ; 
and  the  value  of  the  yam  may  be  averaged  as  worth  1 
dpllar  12|  cents  per  lb.    Eight  hundred  spindles  employ 
40  persons,  viz.  5  men,  35  women  and  children. 
^  **  The  increase  of  carding  and  spinmng  cotton  by  ma«' 
chmery,  in  establishments  for  that  purpose,  exclusively  of 
that  done  in  private  families,  has  been  fiwjold  during  the 
last  two  years,  and  tenfold  in  three  years.    Thirty-six  of 
diese  mills,  working  20,406  spindles,  are  situated  within 
30  miles  of  Providence.    The  remainder  are  scattered  all 
over  the  country. 

'*  Hosiery  may  be  considered  as  almost  exclusively  a 
hbiisehbid  manufactiiK.  That  of  Germantown  has  de<r 
clined,  and  it  does  not  app^  to  have  been  attempted  on  a 
lajrgte 'stale  in  other  places.  There  are,  however,  some 
exceptions ;  and  h  is  stated,  that  the  island  of  Martha's 
Vineyard  exports  annually  9000  pair  of  stockings. 
'  **  But  by*^  the  greater  part  of  the  goods  made  Of  cot- 
ton,^ fldx,  and  wool  are  manufactured  in  private  families, 
mosdy  for  Adr  own  use,  and  partly  for  sale.  They  con- 
sist principally  of  coar^  cloth,  flannel,  cotton  stufl^,  and 
strips  of  every  description,  linen,  and  mixtures  of  wool 
with  flax  and  cotton.  The  information  received  from 
every  state,  and  from  more  than  60  different  places,  con- 
curs in  esta^shing  the  fact  of  an  extraordinary  increase 
clurf%  tlie  last  two  years,  qni^  in  rendering  it  probable, 


396 


TRAVlBLS   IN 


that  about  two-thirds  of  the  clothing,  and  house  and  tabic 
linen  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  United  States^twho  ido  not 
reside  in  sea^ports^  is  made  in  this  way.  f'Tt*.-^  '  "  ' 
•.'l^  In  the  eastern  and  middle  states,  cardmg  machines, 
tirorked  by  water,  are  everywhere  established,  and  they 
are  rapidly  extending  southwardly  and  westwardly.  Jen- 
nies, other  family  spinmng  machines,  and  flying  shuttles, 
are  also  introduced  in  many  places ;  and  as  many  fulling 
mills  are  erected  as  are  required  for  finishii^  all  the  cloth 
iliat  is  woye  in  private  &milies.>  '^^* 

'  **  The  value  of  the  goods  made  of  cotton,  wool,  and 
flax,  which  are  annually  manufactured  in  the  United  States, 
is  qalculated  to  exceed  40,000,000  dollars.  #|  ( i  i  * 

fi>**  The  manufacture  of  cards  and  wire  is  intimately  con> 
nected  with  this  part  of  the  subject.  -  Whitemore*s  ma- 
chine for  making  cards  has  completely  excluded  foreign 
importations  of  that  article,  but  the  wire  is  altogether  im- 
ported. It  appears,  however,  that  the  manufacture  of  it 
may  and  would  be  immediately  established,  so  as  to  sup- 
ply the  demmid  both  for  cards  and  other  objects^  provided 
the  same  duty  was  imposed  on  wire  (now  imported  duty 
free)  which  is  laid  on  other  articles  of  the  same  material* 


j^ 


'« 


"  Earthen  and  Glass-ivare. 


?  "  A  suflicient  quantity  of  the  coarser  species  of  pottery 
is  made  everywhere ;  and  information  has  been  received 
of  four  manuiactories  of  a  finer  kind  lately  establi^ed. 
One  at  Philadelphia,  with  a  capital  of  11,000  dollars,  ma- 
nufactures a  species  similar  to  that  made  ih  Staflbrdshircj 
in  En^nd;  Joid  the  others  hi  Chester  county,  in  Pom- 


MEW  YORK. 


397 


id  table 
vdo  not 

achines, 
nd  they 
J,  Jen- 
shuttles, 
\f  fuUmg 
:he  cloth 

ool,  and 
d  States, 
'  ^  :" ' 
tdycon- 
«e's  ma- 
l  foreign 
pther  im- 
Lire  of  it 
i  to  sup- 
provided 
ted  duty 
laterial, 

.J  ■.  V*.... 

pottery 
I  received 
iblis^ed. 

rs,  ma^ 

jrdshirci 

Penn- 


sylvania, inNew  Jersey,  and  oa  the  Ohio,  make  various 
kinds  of  queens-ware.  ««> 

^*  Information  has  been  obtained  of  XO  glass  manufac^ 
tories,  which  employ  about  140  glass-blowers,  and  make 
annually  27,000  boxes  of  window  glass,  containing  each 
100  square  feet  of  glass.  Some  of  these  manufactories 
make  also  green  bottles  and  other  wares ;  and  two  works, 
employing  together  6  glass-blowers,  have  been  lately 
erected  at  Pittsburg,  and  make  decanters,  tumblers,  and 
every  other  description  of  flint  glass  of  a  superior  quality. 

**  It[  is  inferred^  that  the  annual  product  ofihe  American 
inant{factures  exceeds  120,000,000  doUars :  and  it  is  not 
improbable  that  the ^raw  material  ttsed^  and  the  provisions 
and  other  articles  consumed  by  the  manufacturers^  creates 
a  home  market  Jbr  agricultural  products  not  very  iriferior 
to  that  which  arises  Jrom  foreign  demand.  t.  •  *  '^  '?' 

"  The  most  prominent  of  the  causes  which  have  hitherto 
impeded  the  progress  of  manufactures  have  been  the  abun- 
dance of  land,  compared  with  the  population,  the  high 
price  of  labour,  and  the  want  of  capital.  The  superior 
attractions  of  agricultural  pursuits,  the  great  extension  of 
American  commerce,  during  the  late  European  wars,  and 
the  continuance  of  habits  after  the  causes  which  produced 
them  have  ceased  to  exist,  may  also  be  enumerated*  Se- 
veral of  these  obstacles  have,  however,  been  removed  or 
lessened.  The  cheapness  of  provisions  had  always,  to  a 
certain  extent,  counterbalanced  the  high  price  of  manual 
labour;  and  this  is  now,  in  many  important  branches, 
nearly  superseded  by  the  introduction  of  machinery.  A 
great  American  capital  has  been  acquired  during  the  last 
twenty  years ;  and  the  injurious  violation  qf  the  neutral 
commerce  of  the  United  States,  by  forcing  industry  and 


r*" 


S9a 

capital  into  other  thafmelsy  have  broken  i^^te^kte  k^tSi 
and  given  a  general  impulse,  to  which  rnksf  be  oseHked  the 
great  enerease  of  manufaeturea  during  the  ftto  last  f/eahy 
It  would  be  tedious  to  ienumerate  ^  twentieth  pait  of 
the  information^  which  came  under  my  observation  In  cor- 
Tobontion  of  this  report;  I  shaH,  therefore,  only  iconde. 
scend  upon  ond  single  circumstance,  which  Shows  at  one 
glatice  die  |;reat  progress  of  mahufectures,  and  how  lltde 
the  subject  may  be  known  by  those  who  live  in  the  sea> 
ports,  lb  the  coun^  of  New  York,  comprehending  the 
whole  island,  there  were;  in  1810,  ohly  f/^eeioomr;  the 
mimfoer  in  the  state  was  d3,068 ;  and^  general  Bumnto* 
ry  of  die  mamifinrtures,  in  the  state,  was  us  follows :    " 

.  ^  .      .  \  V— ,•■  ->    -         ■    Value. 

rXiOoms  33,068  yards diMh 9,099>ir03  0  5,002,891 


f  Tan  works 

mt 

leather 

1,299,542 

^■fy  Oistflleriea 

mi 

^irits 

l,68a>,794 

snewcnes 

42 

beer 

340,765 

^  Fulling  mills 

427  enhanced  ^alue  of  cloth 

«7^126 

%  1^90^  mills 

26 

paper                  ^ 

2133,268 

1  Hat  factories 

124 

hats 

249,035 

iGlate  works 

6 

glass  (besides  bOU^) 

716,800 

*-FowttortiMlls 

2 

powder 

10,040 

Hope  walks 

18 

ropes 

538,000 

^  Sugar  houses 

10 

sugar 

420,706 

le  OUmiUs 

28 

oil 

4^,283 

f%st  furnaces 

11 

iix)iiware^ 

205,300 

Air  furnaces 

10 

do. 

156,720 

Cut-nail  &ctories  44 

nail^ 

276,932 

Foi^[es 

48 

iron 

185^240 

Trip  hammers 

49 

do. 

40,000 

I  Rolling  and  slit, 
ting  mills 

?' 

do. 

33,12.0 

urn  of 

in  ccit- 
06tide- 
at  one 
«)rl|ttle 
hesed- 
ing  the 
ur;  "the 

• 

Value. 
)02,891 
^99,542 
>85,794 
140,765 

^3,268 
149,035 
W,«00 
10,04^ 
;38,000 
.20,706 
4^,283 
5,300 
56,720 
!76,932 
85j240 
40,000 

1 33,120 


^kW  YORK.  3^ 

Carding  machines  413    (value  in  cloth  stated  above) 
.  Cotton  factories     26    (value  not  ascertained) 

Woollen  Victories  (ditto)       ,  ^^^-s^ 

Salt  525,000  bushels  147,000 

Silk  2,240  skeins 

Articles  m  State  Prison  60,000 

The  whole  manu&ctures  may  be  estimated  sibove  17 
millions  of  dollars,  exclusive  of  flour,  ashes,  nuqple  sugar, 
cyder,  &c. 

The  aggregate  of  the  manufectures  of  Pennsylvania,  I 
found  to  exceed  28  millions  of  dollars ;  and  they  appear- 
ed everywhere  to  be  approaching  nearly  to  a  supply  of  the 
internal  demand,  while  those  of  Rhode  Island  exceeded  it, 
and  a£forded  a  great  surplus  for  exportation. 

From  these  and  several  other  circumstances  which  camp 
under  my  review,  I  was  led  to  believe  that  the  trade  to 
Britain,  on  which  I  had  fixed  my  dependence,  would  be 
now  so  much  curtsdled,  that  it  would  be  precarious :  but 
I  had  been  long  in  it ;  my  habits  were  formed  to  it ;  and 
I  was  unwilling  to  relinquish  it,  while  there  was  a  ray  of 
hope  l^* 

At  last  that  ray  of  hope  was  dissipated.  The  prince  of 
Wales  was  appointed  regent ;  but  no  new  ministry  was 
formed,  nor  any  measure  adopted  to  restore  harmony  be- 
tween the  two  countries :— "  /  therefore  calculated  that  im 
temal  manufactures  a:id  commerce  would,  in  all  probability^ 
be  substituted  for  foreign  commerce,^^  and  I  resolved  ta 
shape  my  course  accordingly^ 


i 


-•■•X.\i»i»  -f^ 


m 


i-S 


..';  ,i- 


^iiU 


S  ft  \ytt    '  ,B    -■.»      aW   ^K   J 


''v 


n.,,,. 


:-ilii^'lx: 


:n«  fv; 


V^'*,T,>i<^X. 


■*f  *'\441| 


.»:;4:%,' 


Uv'  , 


# 


APPENDIX. 


VOL*  I. 


3  B 


^'i-J:^-^' 


r,-^&;"v' .-.M    '. 


■/4 


#*^t  "s#»»-' 


•'.  ■« . ,   .». 


.,fiy^+i'!>n:#s   ii.%;^^.  ^* 


'I'm;    ^;\>* 


^...i^.^^y,   ,,j,S| 


•'  rtf  <l5^i    / 


.>  if^rm 


=  A  4;l:A{: 

Of  the  G 

in  plat 

Ue<m 

•i.4'?'/.'^."^,.,; .:      ■ 

A 

S    "    ' 

f<?vcr4    ] 

PQm4. 

What 

' 

point  to  1; 

: . 

pQ9f^^  Qonq 

l:^i^iW-1^Uu  \ 

The  y< 

mercantU 

■■•■■        .'^>   fWU:!- 

leoting  th 

aoditrag 

• 

in^0,%l 

' '  ■  ^ 

TheappfSi 

beiogtliQts 

.   *,,.  ^  ^>,i'«^t' J- ,i,2i;• 

the  Mief, 

here  arc  t^ 

of  the  gr< 

muddy  an 

■.  I ' ,    ! 

cooditionM 

■     .4. -.7 

quentlj  su 

.              .        ! 

the  other  < 

APPENDIX. 


No.  I. 


Of  the  CfOfse  of  the  Xelkfw  Fever  i  and  the  inems  qf  prewnting  it 

inphees  not  yet  injected  with  it:  addrefised' to  the  Board  rf 

UeoUk  in  America*    Bff'  THoa<A9  Pain£« 
'  ■  ' 

A  GREAT  de«l  has  been  written  reapccttog  the  yeUow 
£^ver«  Firsts  with  r^spcict  to  its  cauAes^  whether  domeai^c  or  im- 
ported*   Secondly,  on  the  mode  of  treating^  it* 

What  I  am  going  to  suggest  in  this  essay  is,  to  ascertain  some 
point  to  begin  at,  in  order  to  arrive  at  the  cause,  and^  for  this  pur*^ 
post^f  some  preliminary  observations  are  necessary. 

The  yeUowr  fever  always  begins  in  the  lowest  part  of  a  po|)ttk>uis 
mercantile  town,  near  th^  water,  and  continues  ^re,  without  af- 
fecting the  higher  partr.  The  sphere,  or  circuit  it  acts  in,  is  ^nu^, 
and  it  i!ages  most  where  large  quantities  of  new  ground  have,  been 
TO^iSi^t  by  banking  out  the  river,  for  the  purpose  oi  making  n^rvieft. 
The  appeamnoe  and  prevalence  of  the  yellow  fever  in  these  places, 
being  those  where  vessels  arrive  from  the  West  Indies^  has  caused 
the  bdlef,  that  the  yellow  fever  was  imported  from  thence.  Bi^i^ 
here  are  two  cases  acting  in  the  same  place :  the  one,  the  con^tkui 
of  the  ground  at  the  wharves^  which,  being  new  made  on  the 
muddy  and  filthy  bottom  of  the  river,  is  differentfrom  the  natural 
conditionof  the  ground  in  the  higher  parts  of  the  city,  and  conse* 
quently  subject  to  produce  a  diiferent  kind  of  effluvia  or  vapour  $ 
the  other  case  is  the  arrival  of  vessels  from  the  West  Indies* 


404 


appkItdix,  no.  I. 


Inthestateof  Jersey,  neither  of  these  cases  has  taken  place; 
no  shipping  arrive  there,  and  consequently  there  has  been  no  em- 
bankment for  the  purpose  of  wharves,  and  the  yellow  fever  has 
never  broke  out  in  Jersey.  This,  however,  does  not  decide  the 
point,  as  to  the  immediate  cause  of  the  fever ;  but  it  shows  that 
this  species  of  fever  is  not  common  to  the  country  in  its  natural 
state ;  and  I  believe  the  same  was  the  case  in  the  West  Indies, 
before  embankments  began,  for  the  purpose  of  making  wharves, 
which  always  alter  the  natural  condition  of  the  ground*  No  old 
history,  that  I  know  of,  mentions  such  a  disorder  as  the  yellow 
fever. 

A  person  seized  with  the  yellow  fever  in  an  affected  part  of  the 
town,  and  brought  into  the  healthy  part,  or  into  the  country  and 
among  healthy  persons,  does  not  communicate  it  to  die  neighbour- 
hood, or  to  those  immediately  around  him.  Why,  then,  are  we 
to  suppose  it  can  be  brcxight  from  the  West  Indies,  a  distance  of 
more  than  a  thousand  miles,  since  we  see  it  camiot  be  carried  from 
one  town  to  another,  nor  from  one  part  of  a  town  to  another^  at 
home  ?  Is  it  in  the  air?  This  question  on  the  case  requires  a  mi- 
nute examination.  In  the  first  place,  the  difference  between  air  and 
wind  is  the  same  as  between  a  stream  of  water,  and  astanding  water. 
A  stream  of  water  is  water  in  motion,  and  wind  is  air  in  motion. 
In  a  gaide  breeze,  the  whole  body  of  air,  as  far  as  die  breeze  ex- 
tendsy  moves  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  miles  aH  hour;  in  a  high 
wind,  at  the  rate  of  seventy,  eighty,  or  a  hundred  miles  an  hour. 
When  we  see  the  shadow  of  a  cloud  gliding  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  we  see  die  rate  at  which  the  air  moves,  and  it  must  be  a 
good  trotting  horse  that  can  keep  pace  with  the  sh-^doWf  even  in  a 
gentle  breeze ;  consequenUy,  a  body  of  air  that  is  in  and  over  any 
place  of  the  same  extent  as  the  affected  part  of  a  city  may  be,  will, 
in  the  space  of  an  hour,  even  at  the  moderate  rate  I  speak  of,  be 
moved  seven  or  eight  miles  to  leeward,  and  its  place,  in  and 
over  the  city,  will  be  supplied  by  a  new  body  of  air  coming  from 
a  healthy  part  seven  or  eight  miles  distant  the  contrary  way,  and 
then  on  in  continual  succession.    The  disorder,  therefore,  b  not 


ESSAY  ON  YELLOW   VZVER. 


405 


in  the  air  considered  in  its  natural  state,  and  never  stationary.*— 
This  leads  to  another  consideration  of  the  caae.  ' 

An  impure  effluvia,  arising  from  some  cause  in  the  ground,  in 
the  mapiier  that  fermenting  liquors  produce  an  effluvia  near  its 
surfacf^  that  is  fatal  to  life,  will  become  mixed  with  the  air  conti- 
guous to  it,  and  as  fast  as  that  body  of  air  moves  off,  it  will  im- 
pregnate every  succeeding  body  of  air,  however  pure  it  may  be 
when  it  arrives  at  the  place. 

The  result  from  this  state  of  the  case  is,  that  the  impure  air,  or 
vapour,  that  generates  the  yellow  fever  issues  from  the  earth,  that 
is,  from  the  new  made  earth,  or  ground  raised  on  the  muddy  and 
filthy  bottom  of  the  river,  and  which  impregnates  every  fresh  body 
of  air  that  comes  over  the  place,  in  like  manner  as  air  becomes 
heated  when  it  approaches  or  passes  over  the  fire,  or  becomes  of- 
fensive in  smell  when  it  approaches  or  passes  over  a  body  of  cor- 
rupt vegetable  or  animal  matter  in  a  state  of  putrefaction. 

The  muddy  bottom  of  rivers  contains  great  quantitiesof  impure, 
and  often  inflammable  air  (carburetted  hydrogen  gas),  injurious 
to  li£e ;  and  which  remains  entangled  in  the  mud  till  let  loose  from 
thence  by  some  accident.  This  air  is  produced  by  the  dissolution 
^  \d  decomposition  of  any  combustible  matter  falling  into  the  wa- 
ter, and  sinking  into  the  mud,  of  which  the  foUowing.circumstance 
will  serve  to  give  some  explanation. 

In  the  fall  of  the  year  that  New  Yoric  was  evacuated  (1783), 
general  Washington  had  his  head-quarters  at  Mrs,  Berrian's,  at 
ROcky-Hill,  in  Jersey,,  and  I  was  there.  The  congress  then  sat 
at  Princeton.  We  had  several  times  been  told,  that  the  river  or 
creek  that  runs  near  the  bottom  of  Rocky-Hill,  and  over  which 
there  is  a  mill,  might  be  set  on  fire,  for  that  was  the  term  the  coun- 
try people  used,  and  as  general  Washington  had  a  mind  to  try  the 
experiment,  general  Lincoln,  who  was  also  there,  undertook  to 
make  preparation  for  it  against  the  next  evenitig,  November  5th. 
This  was  to  be  donev  as  we  were  told,  by  disturbing  the  mud  at 
the  bottom  of  the  river,  and  holding  somediing  in  a  blaze,  as  paper 
or  straw,  a  little  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 


Wi 


406 


A^lMDIX,  NO.  1. 


Colonels  Humphries  and  Cob  were  ot  that  time  aid-de-campa 
of  general  Washingtoni  and  those  two  gentlemen  and  myself  got 
into  an  argument  respecting  the  cause.  Their  opinion  waSf  tlMit, 
on  disturbing  the  bottom  of  the  river,  some  bituminous  matter 
arose  to  the  surface,  which  took  fire  whetl  thettght  was  put  to  it. 
I,  on  the  contrary,  supposed  that  a  quantity  of  inflammable  air 
was  let  loose,  which  ascended  through  the  water,  and  took  fire 
above  the  surface.  Each  party  held  to  his  opinion,  and  the  next 
evening  the  eiq)erimenit  was  to  be  made. 

A  scow  had  been  stationed  in  the  mill-damt  and  general  Wash- 
ington^ genera)  Lincoln,  and  myself,  and  I  believe  cohmel  Cob 
(for  colonel  Humphries  was  sick),  and  three  or  fbur  soldiers  witb 
poles,  were  put  on  board  the  scow.  General  Washington  placod 
himself  at  one  end  of  the  scow,  and  1  at  the  other.  Each  of  ua 
had  a  roll  of  cartridge  paper,  which  we  lighted!  and  held  over  the 
water,  about  two  or  three  inches  from  the  sur&cei,  when  the  aoli 
diers  began  disturbing  the  bottom  of  the  river  with  the  poles. 

As  general  Washington  sat  at  one  end  of  the  scow,  and  I  at  the 
other,  I  could  see  better  any  thing  that  might  happen  from  hia 
light,  than  I  could  from  my  own,  over  which  I  was  nearly  perpen* 
dicular.  When  the  mud  at  the  bottom  was  disturbed  by  the 
poles,  the  air-bubbles  rose  fast,  and  I  saw  the  fire  take  fironi  gene- 
ral Washington's  light,  and  descend  from  thence  to  die  surface  of 
the  water,  in  a  similar  manner  as  when  a  lighted  candle  is.held^so 
as  to  touch  the  smoke  of  a  candle  just  blown  out,  the  smoke  will 
take  fire,  and  the  fire  will  descend  and  light  up  the  candle*  Tkik 
was  demonstrative  evidence,  that  what  was  called  setting  the  i^ver 
on  fire,  was  setting  the  inflammable  air  on  fire  that  arose  out  of 
the  mud. 

I  mentioned  this  experiment  to  Mr*  Rittenhouse,  of  Philadel- 
phia, the  next  time  I  went  to  that  ci^,  and  our  opinion  on  the  case 
was,  that  the  air  or  vapour  that  issued  from  any  combustible  mat- 
ter (vegetable  or  otherwise)  that  underwent  a  dissolution  and  de* 
composition  of  ita  parts^  either  by  fire  or  water  in  a  confinedplacey 


I- 


ESSAY  OM  T&LLOW  tiVERi 


407 


so  as  not  to  blaze,  would  be  indaminable)  and  would  become  flame 
whenever  it  came  in  contact  with  flame. 

In  order  to  determine  if  this  was  the  case^  we  filled  up  the 
breach  of  a  gun  barrel  about  five  or  six  niches  with  saw-^st,  and 
the  upf>er  part  with  dry  sand  to  the  top,  and,  aftet  spiking  up  the 
touchobole,  put  the  breach  into  a  smith's  furnace,  and  kept  it  red 
hot^  so  as  to  consume  the  saw-dust ;  the  sand,  of  eonsequenoe* 
would  prevem  any  blaze.  We  applied  a  lighted  candle  to  the 
mouth  of  the  barrel ;  a^  the  first  vapour  that  flew  off  would  be  hu- 
mid, it  extinguished  the  candle ;  but,  after  applsring  the  caxnlle 
three  or  four  times,  die  vapour  that  issued  out  begm  to  flash.  We 
then  tied  «  bladder  over  the  mouth  of  the  barrel,  which  the  Vapour 
aoon  filled,  and  then,  tying  a  string  round  the  neck  of  the  bladder, 
above  the  muzzle,  took  the  bladder  off. 

As  we  could  not  conveniently  make  experiments  upon  the  va- 
pour while  it  was  in  the  bladder,  the  next  o|»eration  was,  to  get  it 
into  a  phial;  for  this  purpose,  w^  to<^  a  phial  of  about  three  or 
lour  Ounces,  filled  it  with  water,  put  a  cork  slightly  into  it,  attd, 
introducing  it  into  the  neck  of  the  bladder,  worked  the  cork  out, 
by  getting  hold  of  it  through  the  bladder,  into  which  the  water , 
then  emptied  itsdf,  and  the  air  m  the  bladder  ascended  into  the 
phial;  we  then  put  the  cork  into  the  phial,  and  took  it  from  the 
bladder.     It  was  now  in  a  convenient  condition  for  experiment. 

We  put  a  lighted  match  into  the  phial,  and  the  air  or  vapour  in 
it  blazed  op  in  the  manner  of  a  chimney  on  fire.  We  extinguished 
it  two  or  three  times,  by  stopping  the  mouth  of  the  phial ;  and  put- 
ting the  lighted  match  to  it  again,  it  repeatedly  took  fire^  till  the 
vapour  was  spent,  and  the  phial  became  fiUed  with  atmospheric 
air. 

These  two  experiments^  that,  in  which  some  combustible  sub- 
stance (branches  and  leaves  of  trees)  had  been  decomposed  by 
water,  in  the  mud ;  and  this,  where  the  decomposition  had  been 
produced  by  fire,  without  blazing,  show,  that  a  species  of  air  in- 
jurious to  life,  when  taken  into  the  lungs,  may  be  generated  from 
substOinces  which  in  themselves  are  harmless. 


408 


ArPKNOlXi  NOi  I. 


It  is  by  meant  ftimilar  to  these,  that  charcoal,  which  is  made  by 
fire  without  blazing,  emits  a  vapour  destructive  to  life.  I  now 
coihe  to  apply  these  cases,  and  the  reasoning  deduced  therefrom, 
to  account  for  the  cause  of  the  yellow  fever*. 

First:— >The  yellow  fever  is  not  a  disorder  produced  by  the  cli- 
mate naturally,  or  it  would  always  have  been  here  in  the  hot 
months.  The  climate  is  the  same  now  as  it  was  fifty  or  a  hundred 
years  ago.  There  was  no  yellow  lever  then,  and  it  is  only  within 
the  last  twelve  years,  that  such  a  disorder  has  been  known  in 
America^ 

Secondly : — ^The  low  grounds  on  the  shores  of  the  rivers,  at  the 
cities,  where  the  yellow  fever  is  annually  generated,  and  continues 
aoout  3  months  without  spreading,  were  not  subject  to  that  disorder 
i a. their  natural  state,  or  the  Indians  would  have  forsaken  them ; 
whereas,  they  were  the  parts  most  frequented  by  the  Indians  in  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  on  account  of  fishing.  The  result  from  these 
cases  is,  that  the  yellow  fever  is  produced  by  some  new  circum- 
stance not  common  to  the  country  in  its  natural  state,  and  the 
question  is,  what  is  that  new  circumstance  i 
•  It  may  be  said,  that  every  thing  done  by  the  white  people,  since 
their  setdement  in  the  country,  such  as  building  towns,  clearing 
lands,  levelling  hills,  and  filling  up  valleys,  is  a  new  circumstance ; 
but  the  yellow  fever  does  not  accompany  any  of  these  new  circum- 
stances. No  alteration  made  on  the  dry  land  produces  the  yellow 
fever:  we  must,  therefore,  look  to  some  otlier  new  circumstances ; 
and  we  come  now  to  those  that  have  taken  place  between  wet  and 
dry,  between  land  and  water. 
.  The  shores  of  the  rivers  at  New  York,  and  also  at  Philadelphia, 
have,  on  account  of  the  vast  increase  of  commerce,  and  for  the 
sake  (  i  making  wharves,  undergone  great  and  rapid  alterations 
from  their  natural  state,  within  a  few  years';  and  it  is  only  in  such 

'*  The  author  does  not  mean  to  infer*  that  the  inflammable  air,  or  carburet- 
ted  hydro^n  gas,  is  the  cause  of  the  yellow  fever ;  but  that  perhaps  it  enters 
into  some  combination  with  miasm  generated  in  low  grounds,  which  product 
the  disease. 


partio 

die  yell 

alteratu 

which  c 

die  yell 

Besi( 

ment,t) 

war,  am 

the  cons 

Qr  comb 

contiguc 

exposed 

the  tide. 

earth,  an 

and  in  tli 

Havia 

the  cause 

pearance. 

gotoshq 

yet  to  be 

der's  Hot 

theyelloi 

moving  i( 

embankir 

mud  bott 

wharves 

under  the 

will  be  wj 

without  V 

When 

is,  withov 

turned,  b 

buttment£ 

there  can 

on  stone  [ 

VOL.  I. 


E8IAY  ON  YELLOW  riVER. 


400 


parts  of  the  shores,  where  those  alterations  have  taken  place,  tha^ 
the  yellow  fever  has  been  produced.  The  parts  where  little  or  no 
alteration  has  been  made,  either  on  the  East  or  North  River,  and 
which  continue  in  their  natural  state,  or  nearly  so,  do  not  produce 
the  yellow  fever.    The  fact,  therefore,  points  to  the  cause. 

Besides  several  new  streets  gained  from  the  river  by  embank- 
ment, there  are  upwards  of  eighty  new  wharves  made  since  the 
war,  and  the  much  greater  part  within  the  last  ten  or  twelve  years: 
the  consequence  of  which  has  been,  that  great  quantities  of  filth, 
or  combustible  matter,  deposited  in  the  muddy  bottom  of  the  river 
contiguous  to  the  shore,  and  which  produced  no  ill  effect  while 
exposed  to  the  air,  and  washed  twice  every  twenty-four  houri  by 
the  tide,  water,  have  been  covered  over  several  feet  deep  with  new 
earth,  and  pent  up,  and  the  tide  excluded.  It  is  in  these  places, 
and  in  these  only,  that  the  yellow  fever  is  produced. 

Having  thus  shown,  from  die  circumstances  of  the  case,  that 
the  cause  of  the  yellow  fever  is  in  the  place  where  it  makes  its  ap- 
pearance, or  rather  in  the  pernicious  vapour  issuing  therefrom,  I 
go  to  show  a  method  of  constructing  wharves,  where  wharves  are 
yet  to  be  constructed,  as  on  the  shore  of  the  East  River,  at  Corl- 
der*s  Hook,  and  also  on  the  North  River,  that  will  not  occasion 
the  yellow  fever,  and  which  may  also  point  out  a  method  of  re- 
moving it  from  places  already  infected  with  it.  Instead,  then,  of 
embanking  out  the  river,  and  raising  solid  wharves  of  earth  on  the 
mud  bottom  of  the  shore,  the  better  method  wolld  be  to  construct 
wharves  on  arches,  built  of  stone.  The  tide  will  then  flow  in 
under , the  arch,  by  which  means  the  shore  and  the  muddy  bottom 
will  be  washed  and  kept  clean,  as  if  they  were  in  their  natural  state , 
without  wharves. 

When  wharves  are  constructed  on  the  shore  lengthways,  that 
is,  without  cutting  the  shore  up  into  slips,  arches  can  easily  be 
turned,  because  arches  joining  each  other  lengthways,  serve  as 
buttments  to  each  other;  but  when  the  shore  is  cut  up  into  slips, 
there  can  be  no  buttments.  In  this  case,  wharves  can  be  formed 
on  stone  pillars,  or  wooden  piles  planked  over  on  the  top.  In  either 
VOL.  I.  3  r  ' 


416 


ArriMDix*  MO.  1. 


I* 


^thece  eMeSy  thfc  ttmoe  underneath  wiU  be  a'commodioui  eheker 
or  harbour  for  imfdl  boats,  which  can  go  in  and  come  out  always, 
except  at  low  water,  and  be  secure  from  storms  and  tnjunes.  This 
method,  besides  preventing  the  cause  of  the  ycUow  fever,  which 
J  think  it  will,  will  render  the  wharves  n»or«  productive  than  the 
present  method,  because  of  the  space  preserved  within  the  wharf. 

I  offer  no  calculation  of  the  expence  of  constructing  wharves  on 
arches  or  piltis ;  but,  on  a  general  view,  I  believe  they  will  not  be 
so  cxpeasiwiii|li  the  present  method.  A  very -great  part  of  the 
6xpenc»4B|MiMking  solid  wharves  of  earth  is  occasioned  by  the 
carriagtt'of  materials,  Miich  will  be  greatly  reduced  by  the  me- 
thoSil  here  proposed,  and  still  more  so,  were  the  arches  to  be  con- 
structed of  oast  iron  blocks.  I  suppose  that  one  ton  of  cast  iron 
blocks  would  go  as  iiir  in.  the  construction  of  an  arch  as  twenty 
tons  of  stone. 

'¥,  If,  by  constructing  wharves  in  such  manner  ^at  the  tide  wa- 
ter can  wash  the  shore  and  bottom  of  Uie  river  contiguous  to  the 
ahore,  ns  they  are  washed  in  their  naturdl  condition,  the  yellow 
fcihit  can  be  prevented  from  generating  in  j^es  where  wharves 
are  yet  to  be  eonstrueted,  it  may  point  out  a  method  of  removing 
it,  at  least  by  degrees,  from  places  already  infected  widi  it,  which 
will  be,  by  opening  the  wharves  in  two  or  three  places  in  each,  and 
letting  the  tide  water  pass  through.  The  parts  opened  can  be 
planked  over,  so  as  not  to  prevent  th't  use  of  the  whaif. 

in  taking  up  m6  treating  this  subject,  I  have  considered  it  as 
belonging  to  natural  philosophy,  rather  than  medicinal  art;  and 
titerefore  I  say  nothing  about  the  treatment  of  die  disease  after  it 
takes  {)latek  I  leave  that  part  to  those  whose  profession  it  is  te 
gtudyit. 


■.•«j;i|**»,:-s(F«i<ii^  ,«;, 


4k**V-  ■ 


HI       •.*5f 


LETTER  TO  A  XBUBIE  OF  rAAtXAMGNT. 


4U 


shelter 
rtways, 
I.  Thw 
,  which 
:haDthe 
s  wharf, 
urvetott 
U  not  be 
t  of  the 
i  by  the 
the  me- 
obecoa- 
cast  iron 
a  twenty 

tide  wa- 
lls to  the 
ic  yeHow 
&  whaives 
removmg 
k,  which 
each,  and 
can  be 


*'^- ■,<)>«» 


.   ■    .     ,A- 
Letter  to  a  Member  of  Parliament  oh  the  Ordete  in  CotmeUy  em^ 

the  American  Trade.  ^f» 

IN  the  present  eventfid  period  of  our  history^  when  a  war  «d* 
ministration  seems  determined,  by  every  act  of  aggression  and 
CoHy,  to  drire  diek-  ooimtry  to  ^e  utmost  extremity  of  distress,  I- 
consider  it  tiie  duly  of  every  man  who  loves  his  oountr)%  to  contrl* 
hoteiusjtttmoatetfbrts  lo  save  the  state*  I  think  I  cannot  faStter 
usensine  than  by  a  communication  to  you,  selecting  for  my  si4>- 
jeotthe  teUtions  (between  ^s  country  and  America.  I  prefer 
maldng  this  oommunication  to  a  public  character,  because  he  haa 
die  power  of  making  the  best  use  of  die  facts  communicated.  I 
prefer  nudting  it«o  you,  ibocause  you  appear  to  me  to  stand  on  in* 
dependent  grooad ;  i  prefer  >the  subject  of  our  relations  with  Ame* 
nca,  because  I  conceive  it  to  be  of  the  greatest  national  importance, 
andbutimUfFerenttyundovstood;  and  because,  having  recently  been 
in  that  ■country,  I  consider  mys^  pretty  w«ll  acquainted  with  it. 

You«re,<if  course,  ^uiiciciidy  aware  of  the  great  importance 
of  the  trade  between  the  two  <countries.  The  supply  of  neariy  six 
mittions  of  people  with  manufactures  of  every  description  must 
'  be  an  object  of  great  consequeno&to  a  manufactwing  country,  and 
it  is  peculiarly  beneficial  to  this  country,  from  the  facility  with 
whidi  it  can  be  carried  on.  The  inhabitants  of  America  speak 
the  siMne  language  as  ourselves;  they  have  the  same  manners  and 
habits;  they  are  in  some  measure  governed  by  the  same  laws; 
and  the  articles  they  have  to  give  in  <e«change  are  exactly  such  as 
we  want. 

Now,  sir,  it  is-m^*  opinion,  that  this  commerce  <:an  not  only  be 
carried  on,  but  even  increased  to  a  much  greater  extent,  unless  it  be 
interrupted  by  our  own  folly.  I  ^pcak  vrith  confidence,  from  what 
Iknow  of  the  people  and  government  of -the  XInited  States,  that 


iHt  APPENDIX,  NO.  II. 

they  are  so  much  disposed  to  peace,  and  a  cultivation  of  their 
trade,  that  nothing  but  the  most  imperious  necessity  will  force 
them  to  relinquish  their  commerce  with  this  country,  far  less  to 
enter  into  a  sute  of  hostility ;  but  I  am  afraid  that  some  of  our 
late  acts  will  drive  them  to  the  former  of  these  cruel  alternatives, 
and  there  is  no  saying  how  soon  the  present  ministry  may  drive 
them  to  the  latter  also.  «  wsf* 

It  would  appear,  however,  that  the  ministry  act  upon  no  hbstile 
t'^sign  towards  America ;  but  it  is  sufficiently  obvious,  that  they 
have  formed  a  very  mistaken  idea  of  the  American  character;  and 
it  is  no  favourable  omen,  that  their  hireling  writers  dwell  with  pe- 
t'tulrar  pleasure  ilpon  every  topic  calculated  to  give  an  unfavourable 
opinion  of  that  country,  towards  which  they  have  in  many  instan- 
ces used  the  language  of  insult.  They  are  supported,  too,'  by  a 
writer,  who,  by  a  knack  at  making  bold  assertions,  and  of  support- 
ing them  by  low,  bullying  language,  has  acquired  a  very  conside- 
rsdble  degree  of  celebrity  in  this  country,  who,  though  a  man  whose 
mowed  tenets  of  political  faith  hold  him  up  to  pdblic  detestation, 
sind  whose  rancour  against  America,  the  cause  of  which  is  well 
known,  subjects  every  thing  he  has  to  say  upon  that  country  to  at 
least  a  considerable  degree  of  suspicion ;  yet,  having  resided  there, 
he  certainly  is  looked  up  to  for  information.  The  boldness  of  his 
assertions  makes  them  pass  current  with  many,  and  it  is  probable 
his  opinions  have  a  wide  spread  in  the  country;  for  I  have  dften 
heard  very  stranfb  and  Inconsistent  doctrines  held  by  Very  well- 
informed  people,  and  him  quoted  as  the  authority*. 

Now,  in  opposition  to  all  that  such  writers  have  said,  or  can 
aay,  against  the  people  and  government  of  the  United  States,  I 
can  affirm,  from  actual  observation,  that  they  possess  a  superiority 
over  every  other  people  and  government  in  many  pTirticulars ;  and 
because  a  review  of  some  of  them  is  necessary  to  illustrate  my 
subject,  I  shall,  as  briefly  as  possible,  notice  a  few  of  the  most  im- 
|K>rtant. 

*  The  writer  alluded  to  has  since  abjured  his  error,  and  has  made  ample 
reparatioh  to  the  ctiuse  of  truth  and  justice. 


LETTER  TO   A  MEMBER  OT   PARLIAMENT. 


412 


Ist.  The  laws  place  all  the  citizens  on  a  footing  of 
PERFECT  EQUALITY.  There  are  no  laws  of  entail,  or  of  primogeni- 
ture, to  divide  the  people ;  and  hence  the  mass  of  them  are  hardy, 
ind^ndent  republicans,  cultivators  of  the  soil  they  possess.  Few 
zrdfko  rich  as  to  be  above  the  necessity  of  labour,^  and  few  are  so 
poo^  as  to  be  in  a  state  of  dependence ;  fewer  still  live  on  charity. 
I  resided  in  the  country  twelve  months,  and  travelled  through 
twelve  of  the  states,  comprehending  a  range  of  1300  miles,  and 
in  all  that  time  I  never  saw  a  beggar  but  once ;  he  was  from  this 
country,  and  it  turned  out,  in  the  sequel,  that  he  was  an  impostor, 
and  not  really  in  want. 

2d.  Public  education  is  cherished  by  the  people  and 
GOVERNMENT.  It  willno  doubt  ^ve  you  pleasure,  that  I  dwell  on 
this  ardde.  It  is  necessary,  for  the  illustration  of  the  subject,  to 
notice  the  subdivision  of  the  country.  Eachstate  is  divided  into 
counties,  and  many  of  these  are  subdivided  into  townships  of  six 
miles  square,  being  a  division  somewhat  similar  to  our  parishes. 
^  the  charters  of  incorporation  of  these  townships,  provision  is 
gemerally  made  for  the  instruction  of  youth,  by  appropriations  of 
land  and  other  funds,  and  the  schools  are  mostly  all  free.  Besides 
this,  there  are  numerous  colleges,  academies,  and  public  libraries, 
supported  piutly  by  the  states,  and  partly  by  individuab;  and 
these  seminaries  are  rapidly  increasing.  I  shall  further  illustrate 
the  subject  by  taking  the  states  in  their  order. 

[Here  followed  an  account  of  the  state  of  education  throughout 
the  country;  but  as  this  has  been  inserted  in  the  foregoing  work, 
it  is  here  omitted.] 

I  have  dwelt  long  upon  this  subject,  because  I  judge  it  of  great 
importance,  and  because  it  is  very  generally  believed,  that,  in 
point  of  education,  the  Americans  are  far  behind  the  British. 

The  case  is  quite  the  reverse,— they  are  far  before  them,— I 
mean  the  mass  of  the  people.  I  did  not  meet  with  a  single  native 
American,  above  12  years  of  age,  who  could  not  both  read  and 
write,  and  they  are  in  general  a  very  intelligent  people.  With  po- 
litics they  are  well  acquainted,  and  there  are  more  newspapers  read 


-^ 


«1« 


*t/APMMl>IX,  SO.  XI. 


)f'f-tK< 


In  Ameridl,  in  |ropoitiaii  lo  the  inluibitaa.ti)  thm  la  imf  comtry 
in  die  world* 

i  tkdi  confirnitkis  staHeineiitiyjr  m  eaetract  itom.  Mtrt/^^  Jme- 
rkan  Ctography,  aiticfe  Nem  England.  ^^  In  Htm  EngJimil, 
leflOttiii^  IB  more  genersdtyvlifined  among  aiU  Tanks  ihan  bi^My 
oidier  part  of  the  globe ;  ariuaig  from  tthe  excdlent  estaUialiiteBt 
of  Bdiook  in  itoioet  eveiy  t0(in»lu(i  and  tither  smaller  diatncta. 
In  these  vchoob,  ^ich  are  gonerdfy  supported  by  a  pubHc  tax, 
and  tmder  tWe  ^irectkm  o(«  achool  comanttee,  aix  taagfat  !die  cle- 
ments  e^  reading,  wmkig, «!»!  anihmetic^  iand  in  the  aaone  weal- 
thy townships,  they  are  beginning  to  introdiioe  the  higher  branidi- 
«)8,  v'it.  grammar,  geography^  &]c.  A  very  iraluable  source  iftf  infor- 
tiontoihe  people,  isthe  newspapex9,iof  which  not  lesB'dian;ao^OOO 
are  pnnted^very  week  in  NewiEbigland,;aiad.th)eyjcircidaMe4n;ai- 
montwvtry  town  wad  village  in  «he  oonmry.^  in  aorate  he  add»— 
*^  Acoor(Kiig>to ^n  ace vrate 'estimate  made  10 ^years  ago, it  appeatrs 
tliat  no  less  than  T^OOO  newspapers  wene  rprinted  weekly  in  !lhe 
Ameiiuaii  states,  whkh  in  a  year  nnmild  amounts  4«»mons>'* 
•i-A^Tfaeneis^rood  reason  itobdliesreithatihB  number.luB«in£etieBr- 
ly  dddbled.  He  goes  on-^**  A  person  of  {mabiire  lage  who  icannot 
both  read  and  wi«ite  is  rarely  iko  <be  ^^CHind.  By  meuisor  d&e  >ge- 
sieraleStadilishBtient'Of SK;hools,7the^extensive  eiroulakion of  news- 
papers, and  the  itonsequent  ^pmad  of  learning,  eveiy  'township 
throughout  the  country 4s  foniished  widi  men  capaUe  c^  conduct- 
ing the  affairs  of  their  town  with  jndgment  and  discretion.  These 
men  are  the  channels  of  political  informauon  to  die  lower  class  of 
the  people;  if  such  a  class  may  be  said  to  exist  in  Mew  Er^landi 
where  every  man^hinks  himself  as  gwd^s  his  neighbouryondbe' 
tieveathat  all  mankind  ouoHT  to  posaem  eqjjal  aights.'^ 

3d.  In  KELIGEOtrs  matters  THEftEia  NBITMER  TOLERATION 
lf04l  IWKOtERATION,  BUT   UKIVfiftSv/^L  AIGHT  OF  CONSCIENCE. 

The  constitution  of  the  United  States  provides  eqiMUyrt^fOfm^ 
fimmngHmy  religious  establishment,  and  against  any  interference 
with  ihefree  exercise  of  religion,  **  Religion  is  d^re  ^ced  on 
its  proper  basis,  without  the  unwarrantable  aid  of  the  civil  power, 


LETTER  TO   A  IIBKBIE  01  tARLlAMENT. 


4U 


^PfMirted  alone  by  its  own  evidence,  by  the  lives  of  its  professors, 
and  by  the  almighty  care  of  its  divine  Author  ;'*  and  every  man 
may  freely  exercbe  his  religious  opinions,  be  they  what  they  may, 
without  at  all  interfering  with  his  rights  as  a  citizen. 

4th.  The  oovernment  of  the  country  is  in  tbe  hands 
or  THE  people.— America  b  what  is  called  a  Federal  Republic* 
£ach  state  has  a  legislative  and  executive  government  to  manage 
its  internal  concerns ;  and  all  the  states,  joined  together  for  mutual 
convenience  and  security,  form  the  general  or  federal  government* 
It  consists  of  the  house  of  representatives,  senate,  And  the  presi- 
dent,-*-elected  by  the  people,— <md  to  them  certain  powers  are 
delegated  by  the  several  states;  among  others  the  formation  and 
regulation  of  all  foreign  relations.  The  federal  revenue  consists  gt 
present  principally  of  a  tax  on  imports*  -t. 

From  hence  it  will  obviously  £4>pear,that  the  United  States  pos- 
sess a  firm  government.  The  good  education  of  the  people  ena- 
bles them  to  form  a  correct  opinion  of  their  rights,  and  their  fre- 
quent elections  afford  them  the  necessary  opportunity  to  assert 
tfaem.*-<-There  is  no  privileged  aristocracy  to  corrupt  them,  and 
there  are  no  hireling  priests  to  mr^^^ead  them.  The  government 
and  the  pe(^ile  can  have  no  separate  interest.  Peace  is  the  interest 
of  the  country,  and  the  government  will  never  declare  waruidess 
they  have  good  grounds  for  it.  Ait  all  events,  any  war  undertaken 
by  the  United  States  must  be  sanctioned  by  the  people,  and  in  my 
opmign  they  veason  very  widely  who  suppose  the  government  will 
rush  blindly  into  a  war  without  such  sanction.  Indeed  I  think  I 
may  venture  to  predict,  that  while  the  present  form  of  government 
remains,  no  war  will  ever  be  undertaken  by  the  United  States 
but  in  self-defence ;  and  if  that  should  become  necessary,  it  will  be 
strong,  vigorous,  and  efficient 

They  are,  however,  differently  represented  here.  We  general- 
ly sum  up  the  wbole  of  the  executive  government  in  the  person  of 
Mr.  Jeffer8on,a])d  because  he  is  not  sufficiently  subservient  to  our 
views,  he  muwt  forsooth  be  under  the  influence  of  Bonaparte.  It 
is  really  astonishing,  by  the  way,  to  observe  the  amazing  power 


151 


416 


:^:*rr»r,u 


APPENDIX,  NO.  U, 


which  many  of  our  politicians  ascribe  to  this  nian.  They  talk 
and  reason  at  if  no  circumstance  could  happen  on  the  face  of  the 
earth,  in  the  least  contrary  to  the  designs  of  the  power»  that  be  in 
this  country,  but  he  roust  be  the  instigator.  I  can  assure  them, 
however,  that  Mr.  Jefferson,^  and  those  who  act  along  with  him, 
are  no  more  under  the  influence  of  Bonaparte  than  I  am.  Their 
maxim  is  to  cultivate^  a  good  understanding  ivith  all 

THE  NATIONS  OF  TH^  EARTH  ;  TO  QUARREL  AND  TO  ALLY  WITH 
NONE.  » 

-  But  they  will  only  cultivate  a  good  understanding  with  other 
powers  upon  a  footing  of  perfect  equality.  If  they  are  inclined  to 
do  as  they  would  be  done  by,  they  have  a  right  to  expect  the  same 
treatment  in  return.  This  is  all  that  honest  men  can  wish  for; 
but  I  am  afraid  that  our  present  ministry  are  not  inclined  to  re- 
cognize this  simple  but  substantial  basis. 

The  disputes  between  America  and  this  country  have  been  of 
long  standing;  but  the  ground  of  quarrel  was  much  enlarged,  in 
consequence  of  certain  spoliations  on  the  American  trade  in  1805. 
It  would  be  tedious  to  notice  all  the  grounds  of  complaint ;  I 
shall  therefore  select  one  instance,  singular  in  its  nature,  and  ex- 
tremely offensive  in  its  operation.  In  the  year  alluded  to,  seve- 
ral of  our  ships  of  war  were  stationed  in  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, to  intercept  the  Spanish  vessels  in  the  navigation  of  that 
river,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  trade  of  New  Orleans ;  while 
these  very  ships  of  war  had  special  orders  to  aliow  Spanish  vessels 
to  pass  and  repass  freely  to  and  from  our  own  West  India  islands. 
This,  among  other  circumstances,  led  to  the  non-importation  act, 
A  short  time  after,  a  naval  force  was  stationed  off  the  entrance  to 
New  York  harbour,  and  intercepted  every  thing  that  came  in  their 
way.  But  their  conduct  was  peculiarly  offensive  in  firing  upon 
coasting  vessels ;  and  at  lengfth  the  death  of  Pierce,  who  was 
killed  by  a  shot  from  the  Leander,  lighted  up  a  flame  throughout 
the  whole  continent.  This  wanton  act  of  aggression  has  been 
palliated  and  frittered  away  by  writers  on  this  side  the  water; 
but,  having  examined  into  all  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  I 


LETTER  TO   A   MEMBER  OF   PARLIAMENT. 


417 


have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  had  a  similar  circumstance  oc- 
curred to  one  of  our  vessels,  upon  our  own  shores,  ample  repara- 
tion must  have  been  made,  or  war  would  have  been  the  inevitaUe 
consequence. 

Fortunately,  Mr.  Pitt  was  by  this  time  off  the  stage,  and  the 
Americans  had  a  rational  and  pacific  administration  to  deal  with} 
who,  I  have  no  doubt,  would  have  healed  the  breach  long  before 
this  time,  had  they  remained  in  power.  I  know  to  a  certainty 
that  the  American  government  had  confidence  in  them ;  for,  in  a 
conversation  which  I  had  with  tlie  president,  in  October,  1806, 
he  expressed  himself  to  that  effect ;  and  he  observed,  in  particu- 
lar, that  Mr.  Fox  tmu  a  man  of  the  moat  liberal  and  enlightened 
polictf^t  a  friend  to  his  country ^  and  to  the  human  race. 

But,  in  an  evil  hour  for  Britain,  and  for  the  world,  the  present 
ministry  got  into  power  by  avowedly  trampling  upon  the  religious 
rights  of  man.  They  are  said  to  be  energetic^  and  they  have  cer- 
tainly "  exerted  tl^eir  energies*'  with  a  vengeance.  They  have 
quarrelled  with  nearly  all  Europe,  and,  not  content  with  that, 
they  seeim  fully  determined,  by  the  folly  of  their  measures,  to 
force  America  into  a  quarrel  also.  I  pass  over  the  foul  act  on 
the  Chesapeak,  because  it  appears  to  have  been  unauthorized,  and 
might,  taken  singly,  have  been  easily  adjusted.  But  the  late 
orders  in  council  appear  to  me  to  be  the  most  impolitic  mea- 
sure that  ever  this  or  any  other  government  adopted  towards  a 
neutral  and  friendly  power.  America  cannot  possibly  act  upon 
the  principle  which  these  orders  recognize,  without  surrendering 
her  independence  as  a  nation,  and  violating  her  neutrality ;  in 
which  case,  it  is  very  obvious  she  would  immediately  have  a  quar- 
rel, with  France  and  her  dependencies,  and  that  she  will  take  care 
to  avoid.  Indeed,  I  have  little  doubt  but  one  great  reason  for 
passing  those  hateful  orders  was  to  bring  the  question  to  that  very 
issue— 4o  force  America  into  a  war  with  France.  ^ 

Still,  however,  I  do  not  dread  an  immediate  war  with  America, 
The  ministry,  impolitic  as  I  esteem  them,  do  not  appear  to  have 
formed  any  hostile  design  against  that  country;  but  much  evi| 


VOL.  I. 


3C 


418 


APPENDIX,  HO.  II. 


may  result  from  their  domineering,  bullying  spirit,  before  matters 
are  adjusted;  and,  as  they  apj)ear  to  be  totally  ignorant  of  the 
American  character,  there  is  no  saying  how  far  they  may  carry 
their  **  vigorous  measures*'  if  the  Americans  stand  firm ;  and  this 
they  assuredly  will.  From  what  I  know  of  the  American  cha- 
racter, I  am  confident  they  never  will  submit  to  the  restrictions 
fv«  have  been  imposing  upon  their  trade  for  years  j  and,  in  parti* 
culart  they  never  will  submit  to  these  orders  in  council.  What ! 
allow  their  Ships  to  be  forced  into  this  country ;  searched,  taxed, 
and  UceiKed,  before  they  proceed  to  France  or  her  dependencies! 
They  are  truly  bdd  politicians  who  have  dared  to  suppose  Uiey 
Would.  It  has  been  alleged,  that  the  French  government  have 
forced  us  to  adopt  these  measures  by  their  blockading  decrees ; 
but  tliose  who  make  the  allegation  completely  overlook  the  policy 
of  France  towards  America;  for  no  sooner  were  these  blockad- 
\tkj^  de«i«es  issued)  than  the  French  government  avowed,  in  the 
most  distinct  terms,  that  they  had  no  reference  whatever  to  the 
triadebettoeeti  America  and  Britain  s  and  that  the  existing  treaty 
between  Fnmoe  and  America  should  have  full  effect.  They  not 
only  continued  to  act  upon  this  principle  up  to  the  date  of  our 
orders  in  council,  but  they  gave  wders  to  Spain  to  release  certain 
Amertcan  vessels  which  were  carried  into  that  country  in  virtue 
of  similar  decrees^  alleging  that  the  Spanish  government  had 
misconceived  their  meaning.  If  further  proof  be  wanted,  it  is 
only  necessary  to  look  at  the  rate  of  insurance  on  American  and 
British  vessels  for  twelve  months  back. 

But  whatever  the  French  government  intetided  to  do  before^  it 
is  very  certain  they  will  resort  to  most "  vigorous  measures"  now ; 
for  they  have  already  passed  decrees,  not  only  to  set  aside  the 
effect  of  our  orders  in  council,  but  they  proceed  a  step  farthi^,  and 
declare,  that  if  American  vessels  even  suffer  themselves  to  be 
searched  by  our  ships  of  ^ar,  a  measure  which  they  cannot  help, 
they  will  be  de  tationaiizedy  and  liable  to  confiscation :  so  that,  bc« 
tween  the  two  contending  nations,  the  American  trade  is  brought 
into  a  more  awkward  situation  than  has  ever  been  endiiried  by  cmy 


neutral 

and  th 

sequen 

have  y, 

would  I 

submit 

forbids 

them? 

commoc 

probab]( 

trade  wi 

posture 

senses. 

it  will  ni 

I  attribu 

country! 

years  pas 

repose, n 

will  dote 

belief,  th 

cerely  ho 

move  the 

uprightnc 

yanua 

P.S. 

has  been 
An  emba 
disaatroui 
some  of  ( 
reducing" 
that  glori< 
tify  them, 
mity.   If 


LETTER  TO   A   MEMBEE  Of  PARLIAMENT. 


4t9 


neatral  power.  Our  orders  in  council  are  the  primary  cause, 
and  the  remaining  inquiry  is,  what  is  likely  to  be  the  con- 
sequence? Will  the  present  ministry  revoke  them?  No:  they 
have  vaunted  so  much  about  their  energetic  measures,  that  it 
would  be  foUy  to  expect  it.  Will  the  American  government 
submit  to  them  ?  No :  the  independent  spirit  of  the  country 
forbids  it.  Will  France  and  her  dependencies  acquiesce  in 
them?  No:  Bonaparte  does  not  possess  a  spirit  sufficiently  ac* 
commodating  to  warrant  us  in  thinking  they  will.  The  most 
probable  conjecture,  therefore,  is,  that  America  will  suspend  her 
trade  with  Europe ;  throw  herself  upon  the  defensive,  and  in  that 
posture  rem^n  till  the  fighting  folks  of  Europe  come  to  their 
senses.  When  that  will  be,  God  knows ;  but  I  am  much  afraid 
it  will  not  be  while  the  present  administration  remain  in  power. 
I  attribute  the  accumulated  distress  which  is  pressing  upon  my 
country  to  the  false  policy  which  has  been  acted  upon  for  many 
years  past;  and  I  am  firmly  persuaded  that  we  shall  never  enjoy 
repose,  nor  prosperity,  till  her  councils  arc  swayed  by  men  **  who 
will  do  to  others  as  they  would  be  done  by."  This,  it  is  my  firm 
belief,  the  present  ministry  never  will  do ;  and,  therefore,  I  sin* 
cerely  hope  that  God,  in  mercy  to  mankind,  will  be  pleased  to  re- 
move them  soon,  and  that  he  will  substitute  in  their  place  men  of 
uprightness  and  integrity,  who  fear  God  and  hate  covetousness, 

I  am,  &c.  , 

January  35, 1808w  J.  M. 


P.  S«  yan»  27.->--Siace  the  foregoing  letter  was  written,  advice 
has  been  received,  that  what  I  anticipated  has  partly  taken  place. 
An  embargo  has  been  laid  in  America,  and  it  is  easy  to  see  the 
disastrous  consequences  which  must  be  the  result.  However, 
some  of  our  energetic  politicians  here  are  talking  very  big  about 
reducing  the  Tankees  to  obedience.  No  doubt,  they  anticipate 
that  glorious  sport  will  result  from  an  American  war;  and  to  gra- 
tify them,  perhaps  their  masters  may  carry  matters  to  that  extre- 
mity.  If  they  do,  I  have  yet  one  piece  of  news  in  store  for  them : 


420  APPENDIX,  MO.  II.  » 

THE  Americans  never  will  make  peace  until  the  tree- 

DOM  OF  THE   SEAS   BE  COMPLETELY   AND  UNE<^IVOCALLT   RE- 
COGNIZED  AS   A   basis! 

The  above  letter  was  sent  to  the  editor  of  a  periodical  paper 
in  the  month  of  June  following,  accompanied  by  the  subsequent 
remarks : 

The  foregoing  letter  was  sent  to  a  member  of  parliament  in  the 
month  of  January  last,  and  a  copy  of  it  was  intended  to  be  sent  to 
your  Review  at  the  same  time  ;  but  other  avocations  retarded  it 
for  a  few  weeks,  and,  upon  reflection,  it  was  judged  adviseable  to 
decline  the  publication  until  the  new  nystem  adopted  towards 
America  should  fully  develope  itself. 

I  am  now  sorry  to  find  that  the  most  of  my  conjectures,  unfa- 
vourable as  they  were,  are  short  of  the  reality.  I  find,  too,  that 
they  are  corroborated  by  the  opinions  of  men  of  the  most  exten- 
sive information  and  judgment: — Mr.  Baring's  very  able  pamph- 
let upon  the  orders  in  council,  and  Mr.  Brougham's  admirable 
speech  upon  the  same  subject,  in  summing  up  the  evidence  be- 
fore the  house  of  commons,  are  before  the  public,  and  ought  to 
be  read  by  every  commercial  man  in  these  kingdoms.— Sanctioned 
by  these,  and  by  the  evidence  of  facts,  further  reserve  is  unneces- 
sary. We  cannot  stem  the  torrent,  but  we  can  endeavour  to  open 
the  eyes  of  our  countrymen  to  see  the  sacrifice  which  many  of 
them  are  so  loudly  calling  for;  and  we  can  prepare  such  of  them 
as  are  open  to  conviction,  for  what  will  infallibly  be  the  issue  if 
the  system  is  long  persevered  in. — Necessity  may  compel  the  Ame- 
rican government  to  encourage  their  own  manufactures  for  the  pre- 
sents and  if  they  be  once  established^  justice  to  the  manufacturers 
may  call  upon  it  to  protect  them.     We  run  great  risk  of  losing 

THE  TRADE  WITH  THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA  FOR  EVER. 


IV 


EXTRACTS   FROM   BllOUGHAM*8   SPEECH. 


4St 


Extracts  from  the  Speech  of  Mr.  Brougham  before  the  House  of 

Commons,  April  1, 1808. 


SIR,  until  our  orders  in  council  were  issued,  it  appears  clear- 
ly, without  any  reasoning,  to  any  one  who  looks  at  the  subject,  that 
there  was  no  possibility  whatever  of  Bonaparte  putting  his  threats 
into  execution. 

You  will  find  that  in  every  quarter  we  have,  by  our  orders  in 
council,  been  crossing  and  striking  in  with  the  enemy's  plans,  and 
supplying  those  deficiencies  in  their  orders,  which  they  in  vain 
attempted  to  make  up.  You  will  see,  too,  what  the  result  has  been ; 
that  the  commerce  of  this  once  flourishing  country  is  now  brought 
down  to  a  state  lower  than  it  ever  was  expected  to  reach,  even  by 
the  most  gloomy  prophets,  in  the  worst  times  of  our  history. 

I  hold  in  my  hand  a  paper  ordered  to  be  printed  on  the  15th  of 
March,  and  giving  the  value  of  imports  from  the  United  States, 
and  exports  thither,  for  the  years  1805, 1806,  and  180r.  It  ap- 
pears from  this  documenr,  that  in  1806,  the  imports  from  Ameri- 
ca to  Great  Britain  amounted  to  4,360,743/.  r«al  value,  and  that 
the  exports  from  Great  Britain  to  the  United  States,  in  the  same 
year,  amounted  to  12,865,551/.;  and,  by  the  average  of  those 
three  years,  we  find  the  exports  to  the  United  States  of  America 
amount  to  upwards  of  twelve  millions  sterling,  and  the  average  of 
imports  to  upwards  of  four  millions  and  a  half;  and  as  the  dispro- 
portion is  increasing,  we  may  say  in  general,  that  this  country  now 
exports  to  America  three  times  as  much  as  she  imports  from 
thence. 

I  have  just  to  ask  the  house  this  one  question,  are  you  willing 
to  continue  exporting  to  America  twelve  millions  and  a  half  of 
BriUsh  produce  and  manufacture,  or  are  you  not  ?  If  you  are,  how 
are  you  to  be  paid  for  it  ?  It  is  evident,  that  you  only  receive  four 
millions  direct  from  America ;  therefore  there  are  no  less  than 
eight  millions  wanting,  and  America,  we  all  know,  can  only  pay 
you  by  trading  with  the  continent.     If  you  wish  to  cut  up  that 


4S3 


APPENDIX,  MO.  II. 


trade  by  the  roots,  you  commit  that  old  solecism  of  power,  as  my 
lord  Bacon  so  well  calls  it ;  you  wish  to  command  the  end,  but 
you  refuse  to  submit  to  the  means.  You  desire  to  trade  with  the 
United  States  of  America ;  but  you  desire,  at  the  same  time,  to 
lop  off  their  trad^  with  the  enemy,  as  you  call  it,  which  is,  in  other 
words,  lopping  oflf  the  very  commerce  which  you  carry  on  with 
your  enemy,  in  spite  of  the  war,  and  in  spite  of  himself,  by  which 
you  were  getting  eight  millions  sterling  each  year ;  by  which  you 
were  enabled  to  continue  a  trading  nation.  You  are  destroying 
the  only  means  by  which  America  can  pay  that  enormous  amount 
to  you.  She  must  have  the  opportunity,  not  only  of  taking  your 
goods,  but  of  exporting  her  own,  in  order  to  pay  you.  She  must 
not  only  export  her  own  goods,  she  must  also  re-export  yours 
with  them,  in  order  that  you  may  still  send  them  to  your  enemy, 
notwithstanding  the  hostilities  you  are  engaged  in;  notwithstand- 
ing the  decrees  he  is  threatening  your  trade  with.  So  stands  the 
matter  in  argument,  or,  if  you  will,  in  theory;  and  I  now  invite 
this  house  to  say,  whether  it  is  possible  for  them  to  conceive  any 
thing  more  precise  and  conclusive  than  the  evidence  which  has 
been  adduced  at  your  bar,  to  show  that  this  is  also  the  matter  of 
fact,  from  the  actual  history  of  our  trade  with  America. 

Therefore,  sir,  I  say,  that  in  every  point  of  view  in  which  we 
can  look  at  this  new  system  of  commercial  regulation,  we  see  but 
one  effect,  namely,  that  of  ruining  and  cutdng  off,  root  and  branch, 
the  whole  of  our  traffic  with  the  United  States  of  America,  or,  in 
other  words,  I  may  say,  the  whole  of  our  foreign  trade. 

Sir,  this  short  and  summary  view  of  the  measure,  even  without 
the  aid  of  the  statement  so  satisfactorily  set  forth  in  the  evidence 
before  you,  will,  I  trust,  prove  sufficiently  decisive  to  entitle  me  to 
leave  this  branch  of  the  argument  without  one  further  comment, 
and  to  affirm  that  I  have  completely  demonstrated  a  proposition  at 
first  sight  rather  paradoxical :  that  England  has,  by  her  own  mea- 
sures, effectually,  strictly,  vigorouslyy  c(Hmtersigned  the  enemy's 
edict. 


i\ 


REMARK^  ON  Till  SCOTTIIH  PEASANTRY. 


483 


No.  lU. 


Remarki  on  the  Scottish  Peasantry. 


EHrMted  from  Curtie't  edition  of  Burnt'  Works. 


A  SLIGHT  acquaintance  with  the  peasantry  of  Scotland  will 
serve  to  convince  an  unprejudiced  observer,  that  they  possess  a 
degree  of  intelligence  not  generally  found  among  the  same  class  of 
men  in  the  other  countries  of  Europe.  In  the  very  humUcst  con- 
dition of  the  Scottish  peasants,  every  one  can  read,  and  most  per- 
sons are  more  or  less  skilled  in  writing  and  arithmetic ;  and  under 
the  disguise  (^ their  uncouth  appearance,  and  of  their  peculiar  man- 
ners and  dialect,  a  stranger  will  discover  that  they  possess  a  curio- 
sity, and  have  obtained  a  degree  of  information,  corresponding  to 
these  acquirements. 

These  advantagen  they  owe  to  the  legal  provision  made  by  the 
pariiateent  of  Scotland  in  1646,  for  the  establishment  of  a  school  in 
every  parish  throughout  the  kingdom,  for  the  express  purpose  of 
educating  the  poor ;  a  law  which  may  challenge  comparison  with 
any  act  of  legislation  to  be  found  in  the  records  of  history,  whethei^ 
we  consider  the  wisdom  of  the  ends  in  view,  the  simplicity  of  the 
means  employed,  or  the  provisions  made  to  render  these  means 
effectual  to  their  purpose.  This  excellent  statute  was  repealed  on 
the  accession  of  Charles  II.  in  1660,  together  with  all  the  other 
'laws  passed  during  the  commonwealth,  as  not  being  sanctioned  by 
the  roysd  assent.  It  slept  during  the  reigns  of  Charles  and  James, 
but  was  re-enacted  precisely  in  the  same  terms,  by  the  Scottish 
parliament,  after  the  Revolution  in  1696 ;  and  this  is  the  last  pro- 
vision on  the  subject.  Its  effects  on  the  national  character  rah'jf 
be  considered  to  have  commenced  about  the  period  of  the  Union ; 
and  doubUess  it  co-operated  with  the  peace  and  security  aris- 
ing from  that  happy  event,  in  producing  the  extraordinary  change 


■m^m 


424 


APPENDIX,  NO.  III. 


in  fayouc  of  industry  and  good  morals,  which  the  character  of  the 
common  people  of  Scotland  has  since  undergone. 

The  church-establishment  of  Scotland  happily  coincides  with 
the  institution  just  mentioned,  which  may  be  called  its  school- 
establishment.  The  clergyman,  being  every  where  resident  in 
his  particular  parish,  becomes  the  natural  patron  and  superin- 
tendant  of  the  parish-school ;  and  is  enabled  in  various  ways  to 
promote  the  comfort  of  the  teacher,  and  the  proficiency  of  the 
scholars.  The  teacher  hi  mself  is  often  a  candidate  for  holy  orders, 
who,  during  the  long  course  of  study  and  probation  required  in  the 
Scottish  church,  renders  the  time  which  can  be  spared  from  his  pro- 
fessional studies,  useful  to  others  as  well  as  to  himself,  by  assuming 
the  respectable  character  of  a  schoolmaster.  It  is  common  for  the 
established  schools,  even  in  the  country  parishes  of  Scotland,  to 
enjoy  the  means  of  classical  inscruction;  and  many  of  the  farmers, 
and  some  even  of  the  cottagers,  submit  to  much  privation,  that  they 
may  obtain,  for  one  of  their  sons  at  least,  the  precarious  advantage 
of  a  learned  education.  The  difficulty  to  be  surmounted  arises, 
indeed,  not  from  the  expence  of  instructing  their  children,  but  from 
the  charge  of  supporting  them.  In  the  country  parish-schools,  the 
English  language,  writing,  and  accounts,  are  generally  taught  at 
the  rate  of  six  shillings,  and  Latin  at  the  rate  of  ten  or  twelve  shil- 
lings, per  annum.     In  the  towns,  the  prices  are  somewhat  higher. 

It  would  be  improper  in  this  place  to  inquire  minutely  in:o  the 
degree  of  iiistruction  received  at  these  seminaries,  or  to  attempt 
any  precise  estimate  of  its  effects,  either  on  the  individuals  who 
are  the  subjects  of  this  instruction,  or  on  the  community  to  which 
they  belong.  That  it  is  on  the  whole  favourable  to  industry  and 
morals,  though  doubtless  with  some  individual  exceptions,  seems 
to  be  proved  by  the  most  striking  and  decisive  appearance ;  and  it 
is  equally  clear  that  it  is  the  cause  of  that  spirit  of  emigration  and 
of  adventure  so  prevalent  among  the  Scots.  Knowledge  has,  by 
Lord  Verulam,  been  denominated  power;  by  other  i  it  has,  with 
less  propriety,  been  denominated  virtue  or  happiness :  we  may  with 
confidence  consider  it  as  motion.    A  human  being,  in  proportion 


\ 


\ 


REMARKS  ON  THE   SCOTTISH   PEASANTRY. 


435 


as  he  is  informed,  has  his  wishes  enlarged,  as  well  as  the  means  of 
gratifying  those  wishes.  He  may  be  considered  as  taking  within 
the  sphere  of  his  vision  a  large  portion  of  the  globe  on  which  we 
tread,  and  discovering  advantage  at  a  greater  distance  on  its  sur- 
face. His  desires  or  ambition,  once  excited,  are  stimulated  by  his 
imagination,  and  distant  and  uncertain  objects,  giving  freer  scope 
to  the  operation  of  this  faculty,  often  acquire  in  the  mind  of  the 
youthful  adventurer,  an  attraction  from  their  very  distance  and 
uncertainty  If,  therefore,  a  greater  degree  of  instruction  be  given 
to  the  peasantry  of  a  country  comparatively  poor,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  other  countries  rich  in  natural  and  acquired  advanta- 
ges ;  and  if  the  barriers  be  removed  that  kept  them  separate ;  emi- 
gration from  the  former  to  the  latter  will  take  place  to  a  certain 
extent,  by  laws  nearly  as  uniform  as  those  by  which  heat  diffuses 
itself  among  surrounding  bodies,  or  water  finds  its  level  when  left 
to  its  natural  course.  By  the  articles  of  the  Union,  tae  barrier 
was  broken  down  which  divided  the  two  British  nations,  and 
knowledge  and  poverty  poured  the  adventurous  natives  of  the  north 
over  the  fertile  plains  of  England,  and,  more  especially,  over  the 
colonies  which  she  had  settled  in  the  east  and  in  the  west.  The  • 
stream  of  population  continues  to  flow  from  the  north  to  the  south; 
for  ihe  causes  that  originally  impelled  it  continue  to  operate ;  r.nd 
the  richer  country  is  constantly  invigorated  by  the  accession  of  an 
informed  and  hardy  race  of  men,  educated  in  poverty,  and  prepar* 
ed  for  hardship  and  danger,  patient  of  labour,  and  prodigal  of  life. 
The  preachers  of  the  reformation  in  Scotland  were  disciples  of 
Calvin,  and  brought  with  them  the  temper  as  well  as  the  tenets  of 
that  celebrated  heresiarch.  The  presbyterian  form  of  worship  and 
of  church  government  was  endeared  to  the  people,  from  its  being 
established  by  themselves.  It  was  endeared  to  them,  also,  by  the 
struggle  it  had  to  maintain  with  the  Catholic  and  the  Protestant 
episcopal  churches,  over  both  of  which,  after  a  hundred  years  of 
fierce,  and  sometimes  bloody  contention,  it  finally  triumphed,  re? 
ceiving  the  countenance  of  government,  and  the  sanction  of  law. 
During  this  long  period  of  contention  and  of  suffering,  the  temper 


VOL.  I. 


3  H 


nm 


'?«»'*  a*-* .^  ■  AFFEWDIX,  NO.  Ill*'    ?m««*?>1??I' 


of  the  people  became  iiiore  ahd  more  obstinate  and  bitted }  imd 
the  nation  received  that  deep  tinge  of  fanaticiun,  which  coloured 
their  public  transactions  as  wellasth^ir  private  virtues,  and  of 
which  evident  traces  may  be  found  in  our  own  times..  When  the 
puUic  tchoiols  were  established,  the  instruction  communicated  in 
them  partook  of  the  religious  character  of  the  people*  The  Catechism 
of  the  Westminster  Divines  was  the  univer8idschool*book,and  was 
put  into  the  hands  of  the  young  peasant  as  soon  as  he  had  acquir- 
ed a  knowledge  of  his  alphabet ;  and  his  first  exercise  in  the  art 
of  reading  introduced  him  to  the  most  mysterious  doctrines  of  the 
Christian  faith.  This  practice  is  continued  in  our  own  times. 
After  the  Assembly's  Catechism,  the  Proverbs  Of  Solomon  and 
the  New  and  Old  Testament  follow  in  regular  succession ; ,  and 
the  scholar  departs,  gifted  with  the  knowledge  of  the  sacred  wri- 
tings, and  receiving  their  doctrines  according  to  the  interpretation 
of  the  Westminster  Confession  of  Fs  ith.  Thus,  with  the  instruc- 
tion of  infancy  in  the  schools  of  Scotland,  are  blended  the  dogmas 
of  the  national  church  ^  and  hence  t  le  first  and  most  constant  ex- 
eitise  of  ingenuity  among  the  peaspatry  of  Scotland  ts  displayed 
in  religious  disputation.  With  a  sti'ong  attachment  to  the  nation- 
al creed  is  conjoined  a  bigoted  preference  of  certain  forms  of  wor- 
ship ;  the  source  of  which  w6uld  be  often  altogether  obscure,  if  we 
did  not  recollect  that  the  ceremonies  of  the  Scottish  church  were 
framed  in  direct  opposition,  in  every  point,  to  those  of  the  chin^ 
of  Rome.  .  ■  -  ^  ..I'-mni'^:;:,-. 

The  information  and  the  religous  education  of  tht  peasantry  of 
Scotland  promote  sedateness  of  conduct,  and  habits  of  thought 
and  reflection.-^These  good  qualities  are  not  counteracted  by  the 
establishment  of  poor-laws,  w  hich,  while  they  reflect  credit  oh  the 
benevolence,  detract  from  the  wisdotn  of  the  English  legislature. 

Happily,  in  Scotland,  the  same  legislature  which  established  a 
system  of  instruction  for  the  poor,  resisted  the  introduction  of  a 
legal  provision  for  the  support  of  poverty;  the  establi^ment  of 
the  first,  and  the  rejection  of  the  last,  were  equally  favorable  to  in- 
dustry and  good  morals  j^  and  hence  it  will  not  appeir  surprssan'g, 


BEMARK8  OH  THB  SCOTTXIft.  PEAlAMTRY. 


Mf 


d)  ind 
i)loured 
and  of 
heathc 
:ated  in 
techiun 
and  was 
acquir- 
I  the  art 
jsofthe 
1  times, 
ion  and 
on ; , and 
red  wri- 
>retation 
instruc- 
dogmas 
ttant  ex- 
isplayed 
;  natiOn- 
of  wor- 
re,  if  we 
ch  were 
t  cburch 

lantry  of 
thought 
d  by  the 
it  Qh  the 
}lature. 
>li8hed  a 
lor  of  a 
ment  of 
)le  to  in- 
rpriainlg, 


if  the  Scottish  peasantry  have  a  more  than  usual  share  of  pradence 
and  reflection,  if  they  approach  nearer  than  persons  of  their  order 
usually  do  to  the  definition  of  a  man,  that  of  *^  a  being  that  looks 
before  and  after*''  These  observations  must,  indeed,  be  taken  with 
m^iny  exceptions:  the  favorable  operation  of  the  causes  just  men* 
liooed  is  counteracted  by  others  of  an  opposite  tendency ;  and  the 
subject,  if  folly  examined,  would  lead  to  discussions  of  great  ex<* 
tent. 

When  the  reformation  was  established  in  Scotland,  instrumen- 
tal music  was  banished  from  the  churches,  as  savouring  too  much 
of  *^  profane  minstrelsy."  Instead  of  being  regulated  by  an  in- 
strutnent,  die  voices  of  the  congregation  are  led  and  directed  by  9 
person  under  the  name  of  a  precentor,  and  the  people  are  all  ex- 
pected to  join  in  the  tune  whicn  he  chooses  for  the  psalm  which  i^ 
to  be  sung.  Church-music  is  therefore  a  part  of  the  education  of 
the  peasantry  of  Scotland,  in  which  they  are  usually  instructed  in 
the  long  winter  nights  by  the  parish  school-master,  who  is  general- 
ly the  precentor,  or  by  itinerant  teachers  more  celebrated  for  their 
powers  of  voice.  This  branch  of  education  had,  in  the  last  reign, 
fallen  into  some  neglect,  but  was  revived  about  thirty  or  forty  years  V 
ago,  when  the  music  itself  was  reformed  and  improved. 

That  dancing  should  also  be  \try  generally  a  part  of  the  educa- 
tion of  the  Scottish  peasantry  will  surprise  those  who  have  only 
seen  this  description  of  men ;  and  still  more  those  who  reflect  on 
the  rigid  spirit  of  Calvinism,  with  which  the  nation  is  so  deeply  af- 
fected, and  to  whidi  this  recreation  is  strongly  abhorrent.  The  win- 
ter is  also  the  season  when  they  acquire  dancing,  and  indeed  almost 
all  their  other  instruction.  They  are  taught  to  dance  by  persons  ge- 
nerally of  their  own  number,  many  of  whom  work  at  daily  labour 
during  the  summer  months.  The  school  is  usually  a  barn,  and 
the  arena  for  the  performers  is  generally  a  clay  floor.  The  dome 
is  lighted  by  candles  stuck  in  one  end  of  a  cloven  stick,  the  other 
end  of  which  is  thrust  into  the  wall.  Reels,  strathspeys,  country- 
dances,  and  hornpipes  r^^x  here  practised.  The  jig,  so  much  In 
favour  among  the  English  peasantry,  has  no  place  anuuig  them* 


438 


•',y«f^«st€i  ▲^PZHD»,  NO.  ifi;  >Trf^'>"«r^j 


The  attachmeht  of  the  people  6{  Scotland  of  every  rank,  aod  par- 
ticularly of  the  peasantry,  to  this  amusement,  is  very  great.  After 
the  labours  of  the  day  are  over,  young  men  and  women  walk 
many  miles,  in  the  cold  and  dreary  nights  of  winter,  to  these 
country  dancing-schools ;  and  the  instant  that  the  violin  sounds  a 
Scottish  air,  fatigue  seems  to  vanish,  the  toil-bent  rustic  becomes 
erect,  his  features  brighten  with  sympathy;  every  nerve  seems  to 
thrill  with  sensation,  and  every  artery  to  vibrate  with  life.  These 
rustic  performers  are  indeed  less  to  be  admired  for  grace,  than 
for  agility  and  animation,  and  their  accurate  observance  of  time. 
Their  modes  of  dancing,  as  well  as  their  tunes,  are  common  to 
every  rank  in  Scodand,  and  are  now  generally  known.  In  our 
own  day  they  have  penetrated  into  Englapd,  and  have  established 
themselves  even  in  the  circle  of  royalty.  In  another  generation 
they  will  be  naturalized  in  every  part  of  the  island. 

The  prevalence  of  this  taste,  or  rather  passion  for  dancing, 
among  a  people  so  deeply  tinctured  with  the  spirit  and  doctrines 
of  Calvin,  is  one  of  those  contradictions  which  the  philosophic 
observer  so  often  finds  in  national  character  and  manners.  It  is 
probably  to  be  ascribed  to  the  Scottish  music,  which,  through  all 
its  varieties,  is  so  full  of  sensibility,  and  which,  in  its  livelier 
strains,  awakes  those  vivid  emotions  that  find  in  dancing  their 
natural  solace  and  relief. 

This  triumph  of  the  music  of  Scotland  over  the  spirit  of  the 
established  religion^  has  not,  however,  been  obtained  without 
long-continued  and  obstinate  struggles.  The  numerous  sectaries 
who  dissent  from  the  establishment,  on  account  of  the  relaxation 
which  they  perceive,  or  think  they  perceive,  in  the  church,  from 
her  original  doctrines  and  discipline,  universally  condemn  the 
practice  of  dancing,  and  the  schools  where  it  is  taught ;  and  the 
more  elderly  and  serious  part  of  the  people,  of  every  persuasion, 
tolerate  rather  than  approve  these  meetings  of  the  yoiing  of  both 
sexes,  where  dancing  is  practised  to  their  spirit-stirring  music, 
where  care  is  dispelled,  toil  is  forgotten,  and  prudence  itself  is 
sometimes  lulled  to  sleep.  ^  71 


REMARKS  ON  THE  SCOTTISH  PEASANTRY. 


4S9 


ndpar- 
,  After 
n  walk 
D  these 
rands  a 
ecomes 
eems  to 

These 
;e,  than 
>f  time, 
mon  to 

In  our 
iblished 
leration 

lancing, 
lOctrines 
losophic 
s.  It  is 
ough  all 
livelier 
3g  their 

of  the 
without 
lectaries 
axation 
h,  from 
mn  the 
and  the 
suasion, 
of  both 
;  music, 
itself  is 


The  reformation,  which  proved  fatal  to  the  rise  of  the  other 
fine  arts  in  Scotland,  probably  impeded,  but  could  not  obstruct, 
the  progress  of  its  music ;  a  circumstance  that  will  convince  the 
impartial  inquirer,  that  this  music  not  only  existed  previously  to 
that  aera,  but  had  taken  a  firm  hold  of  the  nation ;  thus  affording 
a  proof  of  its  antiquity  stronger  than  any  produced  by  the  re- 
searches of  our  antiquaries. 

The  impression  which  the  Scottish  music  has  made  on  the 
people,  is  deepened  by  its  union  with  the  national  songs,  of  which 
various  collections,  of  unequal  merit,  are  before  the  public* 
These  songs,  like  those  of  other  nations,  are  many  of  them  humo- 
rous, but  they  chiefly  treat  of  love,  war,  and  drinking.  Love  is 
the  subject  of  the  greater  proportion.  Without  displaying  the 
higher  powers  of  the  imagination,  they  exhibit  a  perfect  know- 
ledge of  the  human  heart,  and  breathe  a  spirit  of  affection,  and 
sometimes  of  delicate  and  romantic  tenderness,  not  to  be  sur- 
passed in  modern  poetry,  and  which  the  more  polished  strains  of 
antiquity  have  seldom  possessed. 

There  is  now  a  legal  provision  for  parochial  schools,  or  rather 
for  a  school  in  each  of  the  different  townships  into  which  the 
countr^*^  is  divided,  in  several  of  the  northern  states  of  North 
America.  They  are,  however,  of  recent  origin  there,  excepting 
in  New  England,  where  they  were  established  in  the  last  century, 
probably  about  the  same  time  as  in  Scotland,  and  by  the  same 
religious  sect.  This  is  also  the  case  in  certain  districts  in  Eng- 
land, particularly  in  the  northern  parts  of  Yorkshire  and  of  Lan- 
cashire, and  in  the  counties  of  Westmoreland  and  Cumberland. 

A  lawf  providing  for  the  instruction  of  the  poor,  was  passed 
by  the  parliament  of  Ireland ;  but  the  fund  was  diverted  from  its 
purpose,  and  the  measure  was  entirely  frustrated.    Proh  pudor^! 

*  «  With  what  execration  should  the  stacesman  be  loaded^'  who  could  fnistrate 
a  measure  so  beneficial  to  society !  If  the  statesman  who  neglects  to  provide  the 
means  of  instruction  be  culpable,  what  are  we  to  think  of  those  who  are  opposed 
to  the  instruction  of  the  mass  of  the  people  altogether  ? 


430 


AVPINSIX,  Na.  II  !• 


■%<s\>  -y  '*/-f 


The  timilarity  of  character  between  the  Scots  and  the  people 
of  New  England  can  scarcely  be  overlooked.  That  it  arises  in  a 
great  measure  from  the  similarity  of  their  institutions  for  instruct 
tion,  cannot  be  questioned.  It  is  no  doubt  increased  by  physical 
causes.  With  a  superior  degree  of  instruction,  each  of  these  na^ 
tions  possesses  a  country  that  may  be  said  to  be  sterile,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  countries  comparatively  rich<  Hence  emigra*- 
tions  and  other  effects  on  conduct  and  character  which  such  cir- 
cumstances  naturally  produce.  This  subject  is  in  a  high  degree 
curious.  The  points  of  dissimilarity  between  these  nations  might 
be  traced  to  their  causes  also,  and  the  whole  investigation  would 
perhaps  admit  of  an  approach  to  certainty  in  our  conclusions,  to 
which  such  inquiries  seldom  lead.  How  much  superior  in  morals, 
in  intellect,  and  in  happiness,  the  peasantry  of  those  parts  of  £ngo 
kind  are,  who  have  opportunities  of  instruction,  to  the  same  class 
in  other  situations,  those  who  inquire  into  the  subject  will  speedily 
discover.  The  peasantry  of  Westmoreland,  and  of  the  other 
districts  mentioned  above,  if  their  physical  and  moral  qualities  be 
taken  together,  are,  in  the  opinion  of  the  editor^  superior  to  the 
j^easantiy  of  suay  pEMTt  of  the  island/'''. 


From  the  foregoing  account  of  the  parish  establishment  of  Scot- 
land, it  will  readily  be  perceived  that  the  Scottish  peasantry  are 
pkced  under  circumstances  peculiarly  favourable  to  the  dissemi- 
nation of  kncsvledge  among  them.  As  they  receive  an  early 
education,  they  are  generally  intelligent,  and  have  a  taste  for  read* 
ing,  but,  being  mostly  in  poor  circumstances,  books,  to  a  great  ex- 
tent, are  not  within  their  reach.  To  provide  for  the  general  dis- 
semination of  knowledge,  by  books,  it  occurred  to  me,  that  an  ex- 


*A  bill  was  brought  into  the  British  parliament,  by  Mr.  Whitbread,  in  1W8,  to 
make  provision  for  the  education  of  the  people  of  England.  It  was  opposed  by 
the  whole  tory  and  court  influence  of  the  country,  including  even' Mr.  Wyniktm, 
i. pretended vfhig.       wv-'-w,"  «  ,,-,:,_  j  „.„,,.,;     ,;.  .; 


INSTITUTION  or  THB.  GLASGOW   PUBLIC   LIBRARY.     431 


people 
es  in  a 
istruco 
Kysical 
ese  nar 
in  the 
imigraf 
ich  cir- 
degree 
s  might 
1  wouUl 
jjons,  to 
morals, 
of  Eng^ 
me  clas^ 
speedily 
le  other 
alities  be 
or  to  the 


-v.,j,-f- 


lat  an  ex- 

in  1«08,  to 
I  opposed  by 


cellent  pUm  would  be  to  adopt  a  system  of  K7BLic  libraries, 
one  to  be  established  in  each  pari^. 

^f  I  communicated  diis  idea  to  a  friend  in  ^  begir.ning  of  the 
year  1804.     He  concurred  with  me  in  opinion  {  and,  with  a  view 
of  trying  its  practicability,  we  digested  the  plan  of  a  library  to  be 
established  in  the  city  of  Glasgow,  upon  such  principles  that  it 
might,  with  some  Modifications,  be  adopted  throughout  that,  or 
any  other  country.     The  greatest  dtliculty  we  had  to  encounter, 
in  putting  this  plan  in  execution,  was  in  the  attempt  to  make  the 
property  entirely  public,  and  to  introduce  a  principle  by  which 
every  member  of  the  community,  in  all  time  coming,  might  avail 
themselves  of  the  use  of  the  library  on  the  same  terms  as  the  ori- 
ginal subscribers.     We  made  many  attempts,  but  could  not  get 
a  single  individual  to  join  us,  and  the  plan  was  likely  to  be  aban- 
doned,  when  it  occurred  to  my  friend,  who'  was  a  little  eccentric, 
that  we  could  establish  the  library  oursehes.     This  idea  was 
adopted.     We  drew  up  and  signed  the  regulations ;  paid  our  en- 
try-money aUd  Annual  contribution,  tod  with  the  amount  purchas- 
ed Paleif*s  Natural  Theology^  and  Lord  Lauderdale's  Essay  on 
Public  Wealthy  which  laid  the  foundation  of  the  library.     My 
friend  took  the  office  of  librarian,  and  I  hekl  all  the  other  offices. 
We  held  regular  meetings,  and  had  much  intellectual  pleasure  in 
superintending  6ur  infant  institution.     The  circumstance  deve- 
loped a  new  fact  in  the  history  of-  literature,  namely,  that  two 
members  were  sufficient  to  form  a  library.    In  the  course  of  a  few 
weeks,  we  were  joined  by  two  or  three  moire,  and.  the  funds  they 
contributed  Wei'e  immediately  laid  out  in  the  purchase  of  popular 
books,  which  enabled  us  to  gratify  our  new  subscnbers  as  fast  as 
they  joined  us^    By  the  monrti  of  December,  the  subscribers 
amounted  to  34,  and  there  were  40  volumes  in  the  library.     A 
general  meeting  was  then  held,  and  the  library  was  formally  insti- 
tuted on  the  10th  of  that  motithr-  Another  meeting  was  held  on  the 
3d  of  January,  1805,  wher  office-bearers  were  elected,  and  the  in- 
stitution has  since  prospered  in  a  very  eminent  degree.     Its  pro- 
gress for  the  first  four  years  is  exhibited  in  the  following  table. 


432 


▲PPBNDIX,  MO.  III. 


."...>:.■*,■ 


Since  the  year  I8O89  its  progress  has  been  more  rapid ;  it  now 
contains  nearly  5000  volumes  of  choice  books,  and  promises  to 
become  one  of  the  most  extensive  libraries  in  the  British  islands* 
-.^  li  U  worthy  qf  remark^  thai  party  politica  we^e  never  known  in 
the  institution. 

Table  of  the  Rise  and  Progreta  of  the  Glasgow  Public 

Library. 


'V    *.■ 


No. 

of  Subscribers, 

No*  ofvi 

1804.  July    2 

2 

2 

Dec.  10 

34 

40 

1805.  Jan.    3 

54 

53 

April  1 

7% 

169 

July    1 

126 

345 

Oct.    1 

145 

439 

1806.  Jan.     1 

163 

487 

April  1 

173 

745 

July    1 

1^ 

782 

Oct.    1 

21a 

808 

180Jr.  Jan.     1 

»40 

945 

April  1 

259 

1086 

July     1 

275 

1105 

Oct.    1 

2a9 

1157 

1808.  Jan.     1 

313 

1861 

April  1 

317 

1453 

July     1 

332 

1476 

Sept.  16 

339 

1502 

Since  I  left  the  country,  the  library  has  been  incorporated,  on 
which  occasion  the  articles  were  somewha'  modified,  and  are  not 
now  sufficiently  expressive  of  the  original ;  >rinciples  of  the  insti- 
tution, in  consequence  of  which  I  have  inserted  the  words  in 
italics,  in  the  following  abstract  of  the  mr  iified  copy. 


Regu 

"  Thi 
Hn 
on  I 

To 

anobji 

tention 

For 

establii 

RY  IS 

perreg 

asmaU 

For 

followij 


I.  E 

rerfior 
being  t 
shall  w 

II.  I 
lings  an 
and  the 
who  en 
half  yea 
Octobei 
annual  c 
day  of  J 
anyrigh 
as  may  I 
return,  i 
contribu 

VOL.  1 


INITITUTION  or  TBC  GI.A800W  PUBLIC  IIBRART.     433 


Regulation*  of  the  Ciasgoto  Public  Library^  instituted  Decern' 

^r,  1804. 

"  The  attainment  of  t:^an*s  true  rank  in  the  creation,  and  his  pre" 
sent  and  future  hapfii)7eosy  individual  as  well  as  public^  depend 
on  the  cultivation  and  proper  direction  of  the  human  faculties** 

To  provide  the  means  of  diffusing  literature  and  knowledge,  ii 
an  object  of  the  greatest  importance  to  society,  an</  claims  the  at" 
tentionof  every  friend  to  mankind* 

For  this  purpose,  it  has  been  judged  a  matter  of  great  utility,  to 
establish  and  to  keep  up  in  all  time  coming,  a  PUBLIC  LIBRA* 
RY  IN  THE  CITY  OF  GLASGOW,  which  shall  be  open,  under  pro* 
per  regulations,  to  all  inclined  to  take  the  benefit  of  it,  upon  paying 
a  small  sum  annudly,  towards  its  support  and  increase. 

For  establishing  such  a  library,  the  members  agree  upon  the 
following 

REGULATIONS. 

I.  Each  subscriber,  upon  his  admission,  shall  pay  to  the  treasu^ 
rer  for  the  time,  twelve  shillings  of  entry-money  j  and  the  object 
being  the  general  dissemination  tf  knowledge^  the  entry'money 
shall  never  be  raised* 

II.  Each  member  shall  pay  an  anmaal  contribution  of  ten  shil* 
lings  and  six^pence.  Those  who  enter  betwixt  the  first  of  January 
and  the  foist  of  April,  shall  pay  a  full  year'i  contribution ;  &i0»ti 
who  enter  betwixt  the  first  of  AfH-il  and  th^  first  of  October,  a 
hatf  year's  contribution;  smd  those  who  enter  betwixt  the  first  of 
October  and  the  first  of  January,  shall  be  free  till  Januaiy.  The 
annual  contribution  shall  be  paid  on  or  before  the  second  Wechies- 
day  of  Jjanuary  yearly,  and  those,  who  fail  to  do  so,  shall  not  have 
any  rigjht  to  the  use  of  the  library  till  it  is  paid.  Such  members 
as  may  be  under  the  necessity  of  leaving  the  place,  shall,  on  their 
return,  be  entitled  to  the  use  of  the  library,  on  paying  tlie  annual 
contribution  for  the  year  then  current,  and  exigible  from  those 

VOL.  I.  81 


4U 


APPtHDiS,  NO.  Iff* 


members.  Should  any  person  who  has  been  a  member  for  five 
yearSf  become  unable  to  pay  the  annual  contrihutioni  he  will  be 
entitled  to  the  use  of  the  library  grafts.  The  curators  for  the  time 
will  be  judges  of  such  claims. 

III.  Such  09  wish  at  any  time  to  become  members  of  this  huti' 
tution^  shall  pay  the  entry-money  and  annual  contribution^  in  terms 
of  the  foregoing  article^  to  the  treasurer^  who  vnllgrtoe  a  receipt, 
and^  upon  producing  it  to  the  librarian,  he  is  empowered  to  add  his 
name  to  the  list  of  subscribers,  and  admit  him  a  member  accor- 
dingly.  The  right  of  a  member  to  the  use  of  the  library  may  be 
transferred  to  any  other  person,  upon  such  member  sending  a  let- 
ter to  that  effect  to  the  treasurer,  and  the  person,  to  whom  the 
transfer  is  made,  paying  two  shillings  and  six-pence  in  name  of  en- 
try-money. ^  '* 

IV.  The  funds  to  be  raised  in  virtue  of  this  institution,  shall, 
after  defraying  the  necessary  expences,  be  applied  in  purchasing 
books  of  approved  merit  only.  Of  these  a  judgment  will  be  form- 
ed by  a  majority  of  the  members,  at  each  general  meeting;  But 
no  purchase  shall,  at  any  time,  be  made,  to  a  greater  extent  than 
the  funds  in  hand  are  sufficient  to  pay. 

V.  The  property  of  the  library  shall  be,  and  the  same  is  hereby 
vested  in  the  members  m  trust,  for  the  purposes  of  the  institu- 
tion, the  title  whereof  shall  be,  *'  The  Glasgow  Public  Li- 
brary, instituted  IN  THE  TEAR  1804." 

>VL  There  shall  be  four  general  meetings  annually,  viz*  on  die 
first  Wednesday  of  January,  the  first  Wediiesday  of  ApriU  the 
first  Wednesday  of  July,  and  the  first  Wednesday  of  October. 
Intimation  of  the  pkce  and  hour  of  such  meetings,  shall  be  sent  to 
each  member  by  the  secretary  or  librarian,  three  days  before  the 
meetings  take  place.  Extraordiiiary  general  meetings  upon  spe- 
cial affairs  may,  in  like  manner,  at  any  time  be  called  by  the  cura- 
tors, who  shall  also  be  obliged  to  call  such  meetings  within  eight 
days  after  a  written  request  to  that  effect  is  made  to  them,  tqr  any 
12  of  the  members. 


Hf^i .. ' 


}  -;. 


.*f^ 


'#X 


INSTITUTION  or  TBI  OLAlOOW  PBVI.IC  LIBRARY.      435 

VIL  The  management  of  this  institution  shall  be  vested  in  a 
committee,  consisting  of  nine  curators,  a  treasurer,  secretary,  and 
librarian ;  of  whom  four  shall,  at  all  times,  be  a  quorum.  The  elec- 
tion shall  take  place  at  the  general  meeting,  on  the  first  Wednesday 
of  January,  yearly,  by  a  majority  of  the  members  then  assembled. 
The  three  curators  who  are  then  at  the  head  of  the  hat,  shall  go 
out  ofoffice,  and  three  others  shall  be  elected  in  their  place,  and 
added,  in  the  order  of  their  election,  to  the  foot  of  the  list.  The 
presiding  curator  shall  put  the  question,  which  of  the  members 
shall  be  first  elected  one  of  the  three  curators ;  and  from  the  per- 
son so  elected,  he  shall,  either  in  presence  of  tkie  meeting,  or  at  the 
first  subsequent  meeting  of  the  curators,  take  a  solemn  promise, 
that  he  will  discharge  the  duties  of  his  office  with  fidelity.  And 
in  like  manner  the  election  of  the  second  and  third  curators,  and 
of  the  treasurer,  secretary,  and  librarian  shall  be  conducted. 
When  a  vacancy  occurs  in  the  curacy,  it  shall  be  filled  up  by  the 
members  at  the  next  general  meeting,  and  the  person  or  persons  so 
elected,  shall,  in  the  order  of  their  election,  be  added  to  the  foot  of 
the  list  of  curators.  The  offices  of  treasurer  and  secretary,  may 
be  vested  in  one  or  two  persons,  as  the  meeting  may  think  proper, 
who,  with  the  librarian,  may  be  continued  at  pleasure.  At  all 
meetings,  the  first  curator  shall  be  preses ;  in  his  absence,  the 
next  curator,  and  so  on  to  the  last ;  in  the  absence  of  all  the  cura- 
tors, the  treasurer ;  and  in  his  absence,  the  eldest  member  pre- 
sent. 

VIII.  The  treasurer  shall  have  the  management  of  the  society's 
funds,  and  the  secretary  of  the  minutes  and  correspondence,  and 
both  offices  shall  be  purely  honorary.  The  librarian,  who  is  also 
under  secretary,  shall  have  the  management  of  the  books  of  the 
library,  subject  to  the  rules  made,  or  to  be  made,  by  the  members 
for  its  government,  and  may  or  may  not  have  a  salary,  as  circum- 
stances shall  direct. 

IX.  A  meeting  of  the  committee  shall  be  held  on  the  Wednes- 
day previous  to  each  general  meeting,  when  the  treasurer  shall  lay 
a  state  of  his  transactions  before  them,  for  the  purpose  of  being  au- 


^ 

^^.^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


I 


1.0    ^Ut  U£ 

itt  lU   g2.2 

2?  HA  ■" 
£  I&&   12.0 


I.I 


■IHU 

11-25  11.4  116 

l*^^^^^B^i^B        llllla^^^^^^^B       ^^nSBHH^B 


FhotogFaphic 

Sdmoes 

Carporation 


^ 


'^ 


<^ 


33  WKT  MAM  STRHT 

WIISTM,N.Y.  HSM 
(7U)I72-4M3 


^^    ^\  ^r\\ 


*  -  "< 


diced  Mid  setded,  and  the  balaiice  in  his  hands  aMeitiiii^d*  They 
will  then  iafsrm  themselves  of  the  stats  of  the  library,  and  inake 
out  a  report  thereon,  to  be  laid  before  the  general  meeting,  to- 
gether with  a  list  of  such  books  as  they  would  tecommend  for  the 
use  of  the  library.  And  the  bettel^  to  enable  them  to  prepare  such 
list,  every  member  is  invited  to  lodge  widl  the  libmrian,  b^re 
the  commitcee  meetings  take  place,  a  memorandum  of  such  bodks, 
not  exceeding  five  in  number,  as  meet  his  approbation.  The  com* 
mittee  shaH  also  cause  a  list  of  the  members  to  be  made  up  eight 
days  previous  to  the  general  meetings  on  the  first  Wednesday  <>f 
January^  yearly,  which  list  shall  be  entered  in  a  book  kept  for  the 
purpose,  signed  by  the  secretary^  and  shall,  if  required,  be  pro- 
duced at  every  general  meeting.  To  that  list  shall  be  added  the 
names  of  those  who,  during  the  year,  have  become  members  of 
the  institution,  and  from  it  the  names  of  those  who  die,  resign,  or 
forfeit  their  right,  shall  be  delated. 

The  first  curator  and  secretary  shall  have  pow«r  to  call  a  meet- 
ing of  the  committee,  as  often  at  they  may  think  necessary,  of 
which  the  secretary  shall  g^Ve  proper  notice  to  all  the  members, 
the  day  before  such  meetings  take  {dace  v  and  it  shall  be  incum- 
bent on  every  member  to  attend,  or  to  seii^d  a  written  excuse  to 
the  satisfacdon  of  the  meeting.  But  if  uiy  member  neglect  to  at- 
tend, or  to  send  an  excuse  for  two  successive  meetings,  he  shldl  be 
held  as  having  resigned  his  office. 

X*  At  each  quarterly  general  meeting,  a  report  of  the  proceed- 
ings of  the  committee  shall  be  laid  before  the  members  for  their 
ctmsideratioo.  The  list  of  books  previously  prepared  by  the  com* 
mittee,  shall  also  be  laid  before  them,  from  which  they  shall  make  a 
selection,  with  any  additions  they  may  judge  proper,  and  give  or- 
ders to  the  treasurer  which  to  purchase  accordingly. ' 

Xlf  A  majority  of  two^thirds  of  the  subscribers,  at  any  general 
meeting  assembled,  may  a^i^y  to  the  crown  for  a  charter  of  incor- 
poration, or  to  die  provost,  magistrates,  and  town-council  fA^  the 
city  of  Glasgow,  for  a  seal  of  cause,  in  confirmation  of  thase  regu- 
lations, r  . 


IlllTITirriON  Of  TBI  OLAfOaW  PUBLIC  LIBRABT.     4M' 

Th6  lockty  reservt  the  power  of  adding  to,  altfriiig,  or  aiiMtid*> 
iflg  ^MM  regukitioiit.  But  no  such  additiont,  alientkMM,  or 
amendments  shall  be  made,  unless  a  specific  motion  in  writing  is 
made^  seconded,  and  entered  upon  the  minutes,  at  a  general  meet- 
ing of  the  society*  And^  in  order  to  allow  the  members  time  to 
deliberata  on  the  proprie^  of  such  additions,  alterations,  or 
amendments,  thus  made  and  seconded,  the  consideration  thereof 
shall  not  be  resumed  until  the  quarterly  meeting,  occurring  thriet 
inpntiis  thereafter,  and  if  approved  of  by  two-thirds  of  the  mem- 
bers present  at  such  quarterly  meeting,  the  same  shall  thencefor« 
ward  become  a  law  of  the  society..  But  it  is  declared  thai  no  law 
ehail  eiferbe  pShed  to  dieeohe  the  society^  or  to  prevent  the  public 
at  large  from  participating  in  it»  advamtagWy  by  raising  the  entry 
money* 

RULES  FOR  THE  LIBRARIAN,      v 


L  The  Ubrarian  shall  kesp  the  key  of  the  library,  and  have  the 
CQStody  c^  the  books,  for  which  he  shall  be  accountable.  When 
he  enters  on  his  charge,  he  shall  receive  an  exact  catalogue  of  the 
books,  subscribed  by  the  treasurer  and  five  of  the  curators,  which 
shall  lie  in  the  library ;  and  a  copy  of  this  catalogue,  subsjcribed 
by  die  librarian,  with  an  acknowledgment  of  his  having  received 
iht  books  therein,  shall  be  lodged  with  the  treasurer* 

IL  Each  subscriber  shall  be  entitled  to  receive  from  the  libra- 
rian, and  have  in  his  possession  at  one  time,  only,  one  volume  of 
folio,  or  of  quarto ;  or  two  volumes  in  any  one  book  of  octavo  and 
under  $  but  when  any  book  consists  of  one  volume,  he  shdl  be  en«> 
tided  to  that  volume  only* 

"  III*.  Books  iafii^o  may  be  kept  out  of  the  library  six  week»at 
a  time  t  in  quarto,  four  weeks ;  in  octavo  and  under,  two  vreeks. 
A  single  number  of  any  book,  review,  <»*  magazine,  four  days 
only* 

ly.  If  any  subscriber  detain  a  book  beyond  the  time  specified, 
he  must  pay  a  fine  of  three-pence  for  every  week  the  book  is  so  de- 


^sm*** 


438 


▲PrSlTDIZ,  MO.  III. 


M 


tained,  and  for  a  len  time  in  proportion ;  and  he  can  have  no  other 
book  from  the  librarjr,  till  the  former  be  returned)  and  the  fine 
paid. 

V.  If  any  subscriber  shall  lend,  or  suffer  to  be  lent  our  of  his 
house  or  family,  any  book  or  pamphlet  belonging  to  the  library, 
he  shall  forieit  two  shillmgs  and  six-pence  fcnr  the  first  offence; 
five  shillings  for  the  second  j  and  if  guilty  of  a  ^hirdy  he  shall  for- 
feit all  right  to  the  library. 

VI.  If  a  subscriber  lose  a  book,  he  must  pay  the  value  of  it ;  or 
if  a  volume  of  a  set  be  lost,  that  set  must  be  taken  and  paid  for.  If 
any  book.be  injured  beyond  what  inay  be  reasonably  allowed  for 
ther  using,  it  must  be  laid  before  the  committee  f(#  their  determi- 
nation, and  the  injury  be  pud  for  to  their  satisfsMrtion. 

VII.  The  librarian  must  take  a  receipt,  in  a  book  to  be  kept 
for  the  purpose,  for  every  book  lent  oiU ;  but  should  it  be  incon- 
venient for  any  subscriber  to  attend  in  person,  for  the  purpose  of 
granting  such  receipt,  he  must  send  a  line  to  the  librarian,  who 
wUl,  in  that  case,  be  authorized  to  subscribe  for  him. 

VIII.  The  librarian  must  lend  out  the  books  to  the  subscribers 
in  the  order  of  their  application.  A  subscriber,  after  keepmg  a 
book  the  time  specified,  may  take  it  out  anew,  provided  no  other 
subscriber  has  applied  for  it  in  the  interim. 

Utt  of  Booh  in  the  Glasgow  Public  library^  on  the  UtofJtmU" 

ory, 1805. 

Belsham's  Memoirs  of  George  III. 
Bums' Works,  with  Suppletoent. 
Campbell's  Philosophy  of  Rhetoric 
Campbell^  Version  of  the  Four  Gospels* 
Cavallo's  Natural  Philosophy. 
Chatham's  Letters  to  his  Nephew. 
Darwin's  Botanic  Garden. 
#  Edinburgh  Review. 
Fergusson's  History  of  Rome. 


IMITITUTION  OF  TBI  UlCAlGOW  VUBLXC  LIBRAIT.     439 


Ferguson's  Poems. 

Fielding's  Works. 

Flowers  of  Literature,  for  1 801 . 

Franklin's  Works. 

Gibbon's  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire^ 

GiUies''Histoi7  of  Greece. 

*  Godwin's  Political  Justice. 
Goldsmith's  Works. 
— — .  Essays. 
Hamilton  (Miss)  on  Education. 
Hblcroft^s  Travels,  abridged. 
Hume's  History  of  Eng^d. 
Junius' Lettersw 

Kaimes' Art  of  Thinking. 
Lauderdale  on  Public  Wealth. 

*  Locke  on  the  Human  Understanding. 
Mayor's  British  Tourists 
M'Kenzie's  yo3rage  and  Travds. 

*  Montidy  Magazine. 

Moore's  Travels  in  France  and  Italy. 
'     .  iSelucco. 
Edward. 
Paley^s  Natural  Theology. 
Park's  Thnrels  in  Africi^ 
Pindiir's  Works. 
Public  Characters. 
Ramsay's  Poems. 

Raynal's  History  of  British  America. 
',  of  the  East  and  West  Indies. 

Robertson's  Works. 
Shakspeare's  Worics. 
Smith's  Wealth  of  Nations. 
■  Theory  of  Moral  Sentiments. 

Smollett's  Works., 
Staunttm's  Embassy  to  China. 


440  APrCVDIZ,  MO.  III. 

Stewart's  Elements  of  the  Philosophy  of  the  Human  Mind. 

Sully's  Memoirs. 

Thomson's  Chemistry. 

Tytler's  Elements  of  History. 

Volnev's  Travels  in  America. 

Voltaire's  History  of  Peter  the  Great  of  Russia. 

— — — — -  of  Louis  XV. 

*  Wallace;  or,  the  Vale  of  Ellerslie,  a  Poem. 

Zimmerman  on  Solitude. 

Thote  marked  tkiu  *»  are  itrntticnt. 

Note«-^The  Monthly  Magazine  is  received  on  the  4th  of  eac|i 
month,  and  the  Edinburgh  Review  on  the  ^th  of  January, 
April,  July,  and  October.  The  ^ubscribera  fire  entitled  to  re- 
ceive one  of  the  numbers  at  a  time,  over  j^nd  above  the  books 
allowed  by  the  regulations.  The  librari^m  witt  give  them  out 
in  the  order  of  application,  ^nd  they  must  on  no  account  be 
kept  beyond  four  days* 


When^^I  was  in  Edinburgh,  in  the  month  pf  January,  |6p9, 1 
inserted  an  account  of  the  institution  in  the  Scots  Magazine',  pre- 
paratory to  recommending  the  plan  for  parish  libraries  ip  Uiat 
^         work.     My  subsequent  operations  have  defeated  that  inteniuon, 
4        in  consequence  of  which,  I  have  introduced  the  subject  here ;  and 
^        the  plan  being  founded  on  the  principles  of  equality,  and  having 
answered  well  in  practice,  I  have  no  hesitat^n  *  .  strongly  xecom- 
.  mending  it  to  those  who  may  be  concerned  iu  .esiabUshingPVIIIflo 

LIBRARIES. 


ON  THE  BRXTIIB  AND  AMBRICAN  TRADE. 


441 


■^-'^ 


■vv  ■ 


No.  IV. 


Essay  on  the  Trade  between  Britain  and  America, ' 


For  the  Aurora. 


THE  inhabitants  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  of 
America  are  so  allied  by  consanguinity,  by  language,  by  their 
mutual  wants,  and  by  their  ability  to  serve  each  other,  that  a  com- 
mercial  intercourse  betvrfcen  them  is  of  more  importance  than  be- 
tween any  6ther  two  nations  in  the  world.  Circumstances  of  a 
very  extraordinary  nature  have  occurred  to  interrupt  this  com- 
merce, and  matters  have  of  late  assumed  such  a  serious  appear- 
ance, that  very  gloohiy  ap^rehiensions  begin  to  be  entertained  that 
it  may  be  etitirely  cutoff.  The  great  importance  of  the  subject 
may  be  deduced,'from  the  mariner  in  which  it  has  engrossed  the 
attention  of  all  ranks  of  the  community,  in  both  countries ;  and, 
as  might  be  expected,  very  many  erroneous  speculations  are  afloat 
upon  it.  In  {^articular  the  primary  cause  of  the  interruption  has 
been  studiously  kept  from  the  public  view,  while  other  causes 
have  been  alleged  which  have  no  existence  in  fact,  and  many 
writers  on  hbth  sides  of  the  question,  have  not  scrupled  to  affirm 
that  the  trade  between  the  two  countries  is  of  little  importance. 
I  shsQI  in  this  communication  take  a  summary  glance  of  the 
nature  of  this  commerce,  making  such  deductions  as  I  think  the 
subject  warrants ;  and  I  shall  assign  a  reason  for  the  interruption, 
which  1  believe  tb  be  torrect. 

I  shall  assume  as  a  data  that  the  exports  from  Great  Britain  to 
America  have  of  late  amounted  annually  to  about  12  millions 
steriing)  or  about  53  millions  of  dollars ;  and  that  the  returns  in 
American  produce  have  amounted  to  about  five  millions  sterling, 
or  ab(Hlt  22  millions  of  doUars.  The  balance  was  paid  to  Britain 
by  bills  of  exchange  arising  from  the  trade  between  America  and 

VOL.  I.  3k, 


»•  ■^• 


44S 


APPftNDlX,  NO.  IV. 


m 


the  continent  of  Europe  ;  and  the  greater  part  of  the  carrying 
trade  has  been  in  American  vessels. 

Now,  the  exports  from  Britahi  to  America  have  consisted 
principally  of  manufactures,  which  that  ingenious  and  industrious 
people  have  brought  to  great  perfection,  and  can,  in  general, 
furnish  on  better  terms  than  any  other  nation  in  the  world.  This 
arises  from  the  manner  in  which  the  numufactures  are  organized. 
Particular  branches  have  been  brought  to  maturity  in  particular 
districts  of  country  best  calculated  for  carrj'ing  them  on  ;  thus- 
cotton  manufactures  in  Manchester,  Glasgow,  Paisley,  &c.  linen 
manufactures  in  Ireland,  and  different  parts  of  Scodand ;  woollens 
in  Leeds,  Buiv^  Siirewsbury,  &c.  hardware  in  Birmingham,  cut- 
lery in  Sheffield,  hosiery  in  Nottingham,  Leicester,  &c.  &c*  The 
necessary  divisions  and  sub-divisions  of  labour  have  taken  place. 
The  labourers  are  possessed  of  a  patient  industry  and  a  frugal 
economy  which  cannot  be  surpassed.  A  great  portion  of  the 
labour  is  performed  by  machinery,  more  especially  since  the  sue- 
cessful  introduction  of  the  steam  engine ;  so  that  all  the  articles 
above  enumerated,  and  many  others  that  might  be  mentioned, 
can,  notwithstanding  the  p/ess  of  taxation,  arising  from  the  dis- 
sipation of  the  court,  be  furnished  in  Britain  on  better  terms  than 
in  any  other  nation  whatever.  Now,  it  is  surely  the 'interest  of 
the  people  o£  Britain  to  dispose  of  as  many  of  these  manufactures 
as  possible.  They  cannot  get  a  better  market  than'  the  United 
States. 

It  is  the  interest  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  to  receive 
them,  so  long  as  they  can  apply  their  industry  to  better  advantage 
in  clearing  and  cultivating  their  lands,  and  in  applying  to  other 
branches  of  internal  policy.  ,  ;►, 

Again,  the  returns  that  are  made  to  Britain  are  mutually  ad- 
vantageous. They  clear  the  hands  of  the  growers  of  produce 
here  of  their  surplus  articles,  at  fair  prices ;  and  furnish  a  supply 
of  raw  materials  for  the  manufactures,  and  of  food  for  the  mapu- 
I'acturers;  of  timber  for  buildings  and  machiner}%  of  ash(>s  for 


^A 


ON  THE  BRITISH   ANDf  AMKRtCAN  TRADE. 


443 


their  bleaichfieldt;  to  say  nothing  of  many  other  articles  of  utHity, 
convenience,  and  luxury. 

As  to  the  carrying  part,  it  has  been  mostly  in  American  vessels, 
and  it  is  mutually  advantageotiiethat  it  should  be  so,  for  this  very 
plain  reason,  that  it  can  be  done  at  the  cheapest  rate.  Britain 
being  kept  in  a  state  of  eternal  warfare,  her  shipping  is  of  course 
subjected  to  considerable  sea-risk,  and  a  consequent  increase  of 
freight  and  insurance,  which  American  shipping  is  exempted  from, 
and  it  follows  that  the  cheapest  will  be  preferred.  Just  so  will 
commerce  always  regulate  itself,  if  left  to  its  own  operation ;  and 
the  greatest  service  that  governments  can  render  it  is  *^  to  let  it 
alone."  I  believe  it  may  be  safely  affirmed,  that,  by  being  car- 
ried in  American  vessels  during  the  war,  American  produce  will 
go  to  the  British  market  from  10  to  12  per  cent,  cheaper,  and 
British  manufactures  will  be  carried  to  America  from  8  to  10  per 
cent,  cheaper  than  in  British  vessels.  This  is,  of  course,  a  great 
saving  to  the  inhabitants  of  both  countries ;  and  I  wish  to  state 
this  explicidy,  because  that  class  of  men  in  Britain,  who  call  them- 
anises  "  the  shipping  interest^*'  have  made  a  terrible  yelping  and 
noise  about  it ;  but  why,  in  the  name  of  common  sense,  should 
their  interest^  or  the  interest  of  any  particular  class  be  set  up  in 
opposition  to  the  interest  of  a  nation  ? 

From  this  short  review  it  is  evident,  that  the  trade  between  the 
two  countries  has  been  mutually  ?vantageous.  To  the  inhabi- 
tants of  America  it  is  useful  and ,  wenient ;  to  those  of  Britain 
it  is  essentially  necessary :  it  cannot  be  the  wish  of  either  people 
to  stop  it ;  reason,  and  common  sense,  and  self-interest  forbid  it. 
"Whence  then  does  the  interruption  arise  ?  {Here  a  number  of 
the  reasons  -which  have  been  assigned  are  noticed^  and  it  is  then 
stated,"]  The  true  cause  is  to  be  found  in  the  hostility  of 
THE  COURT  of  Britain.  They  have  never  forgiven  America 
for  asserting  her  independence. — ^They  have  considered  the 
Americans  as  a  divided  people  ;  and  they  have  thought  that  by 
persevering  in  a  course  of  steady  hostility',  the  country  would  fall 
an  easy  prey. 


V 


U:*- 


[After  a  number  of  ■peculatione  on  the  probable  changei  that 
might  take  phice,  notice  is  taken  of  the  dawn  of  hope  held  out  by 
the  probabili^  of  a  regency  and  tMg  minUtry  being  appointed  in 
Britain.  The  probable  atept  tMpould  pursue  are  glanced  at, 
and  the  consequences  to  AmeridKunmed  up  thus.]— Our  trade 
would  flourish  i  our  good  will  towlurds  each  other,  and  towards 
our  British  brethren,  would  encrease ;  party  distinctions  would 
be  done  away ;  political  names  would  be  no  longer  applied  as 
terms  of  reproach:   we   would  be  all   rsDERALXSTs— we 

WOULD  BE  ALL  REPUBLICANS. 


»  ',.(.  •; 


'^■^i.; 


*     END  OF  VOLUME  I. 


•f^f. 


4  ■  ' 


41^' 


■,■■;/■  J.^ 


''v- '■'■^ 


-ji 


:,.J^r 


"■'Hr*' 


■?*»*■' 


f.b     %i 


4 


...*!•* 


•4^ 


]'-^c- 


